Thanks for tips. You should cut biscuits from the top though as that's the edge you want to be flat, just in case there is variation. I know there isn't usually much but i find the middle is a tiny bit thicker usually
Just fitted the 22mm square edge worktops from Howden joinery, I found doing the jointing bolts first in the female side first, then heat gun off the edge, was easier, then offer up the male to check for square, use the trimming bit and jig, to square the edge makes a great joint, also sink cut outs and hob cut outs, butter the cuts with silicone to prevent water ingress into the veneered edge,
My worktops were joined but a black plastic strip was put on the top of the worktops where they were joined and it just looks awful! It's the first thing I noticed when I walked in. What can be done about it please? It just stands out so much and has ruined the look of my new kitchen!!!
Hi, I am unsure how that has been done as I do not use that method. If you could email me a few photos, maybe I can point you in the right direction. Ejup@passion4carpentry.co.uk
Great video and one happy customer. New to joinery and usually do the male and female joints but t that is so much simpler if you can do it with the worktop you have. 👍🏻
Can you use this method if your corner is not at 90 degree for example if you have 120 degree corner? can you fit the first piece and scribe the second and straight cut it?
At first, thank you for the video. I have a question. What happens if you don't take away the formica edge? The Formica lid and edges are supposed to be watertight. Isn't it better to join formica to formica with that "colorfill" adhesive and do the rest of the procedure as in the video?
Your welcome and thank you for your question. First the worktop does not come with the edging to the sides only the front facing edge. Second we have to remove it so the joint is wood to wood because the sealant is for this purpose. Third even if the edging was there it is a kind of plastic that does not respond well to sealant. And last but not least if you leave the edging on either side. When the worktop is joint then this will show on the top facing of the worktop. Our aim is for the joint to be as invisible as possible.
You can adjust the cut to accommodate for the walls being off square. As you say, they normally are not, so you should expect to have to adjust for that. Been fitting kitchens for nearly 40 years.
Hi mate, can you send a link to the jointing kit that you used for this please? That’s a lovely job you did there! Where about are you from? Anywhere near the West Midlands?!
Thank you mate. I am based in Leicester. The sealant has to be bought together with the worktop as it needs to match in colour. For bisket and joint bolt you can buy in Screwfix or Amazon. Thank you your more than welcome to ask any questions you have.
@@chriscoulson7684 that's what I did do but it was still nerve racking and took ages. Used a combination square to set my straight edge and clamps but was still proper awkward and hard. I knew that even a quarter of a mill out would fuck it up. Plus the walls and units weren't dead on square.
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 yeah I feel ya! You could also turn both worktops upside down, and clamp together. Then run your circular saw through the joint. It will cut them perfectly and won’t split the veneer
What's the advantage of this joint V's male/female joint using worktop jig? Going cutting countertop next week and was planning on going with male/female joint but not sure now 🤔
Hi, I find that this join works better and its barely visible once completed because the worktop is square. Either way is doable I just find this works for me.
In that case you have to play with units and worktop to find the right fit, If the L IS over 90 degrees you leave both sides same gap or if it is less than 90 you have to plane the worktop both sides the same.
Nice video, thank you 'PfC' I am fitting a Howden's kitchen with 22mm square edge worktops - 'the look' apparently. Wood grain though so it is not as uniform as your sparkle top! Did you just fit your 'biscuits' loose or were they glued in at some stage in the video? I missed it if so!
Thanks for tips. You should cut biscuits from the top though as that's the edge you want to be flat, just in case there is variation. I know there isn't usually much but i find the middle is a tiny bit thicker usually
I thought exactly the same!
Great work thank you for sharing this video 🙏🏻 I appreciate your time sir
Just fitted the 22mm square edge worktops from Howden joinery, I found doing the jointing bolts first in the female side first, then heat gun off the edge, was easier, then offer up the male to check for square, use the trimming bit and jig, to square the edge makes a great joint, also sink cut outs and hob cut outs, butter the cuts with silicone to prevent water ingress into the veneered edge,
Nice work, as a kitchen fitter I can see you take pride in your work
My worktops were joined but a black plastic strip was put on the top of the worktops where they were joined and it just looks awful! It's the first thing I noticed when I walked in. What can be done about it please? It just stands out so much and has ruined the look of my new kitchen!!!
Hi, I am unsure how that has been done as I do not use that method.
If you could email me a few photos, maybe I can point you in the right direction.
Ejup@passion4carpentry.co.uk
Aww thank you so much. I'll take some now.
Good job, nice to see someone take pride in there work.
Is it essential to use biscuits as well, in the past I've only ever seen the joins done with the three bolts and glue only?
Great video, please can you tell me which sealent you use? Thanks Tim
Great video and one happy customer. New to joinery and usually do the male and female joints but t that is so much simpler if you can do it with the worktop you have. 👍🏻
Can you use this method if your corner is not at 90 degree for example if you have 120 degree corner? can you fit the first piece and scribe the second and straight cut it?
I guess as long as its SQUARE EDGE worktop
Great work my friend .. where can I purchase good heat gun for this job please ?
I bought that one in lidle
Excellent job What temperature did you heat the edging too ?
Thank you, the temperature was at 240°. You need take care with the heating gun as if you hold it to the worktop for to long it could melt the edging.
@@PassionforCarpentry thank you for your help
What are u rubbing over the bench?
Hi, it is the cleaning solution provided with the worktop.
Thank you
Excellent job!
You are very good easy way how to fit square eage work top 👍👍smart
Great work, superb job.
Could you please tell me the name of the chemical used to join the counter?
There is a kit you can buy for worktop.
Unika Worktop Sealant & adhesive, 20ml. B&Q £11. You can select from different colors to fit your worktop.
At first, thank you for the video.
I have a question. What happens if you don't take away the formica edge?
The Formica lid and edges are supposed to be watertight.
Isn't it better to join formica to formica with that "colorfill" adhesive and do the rest of the procedure as in the video?
Your welcome and thank you for your question.
First the worktop does not come with the edging to the sides only the front facing edge.
Second we have to remove it so the joint is wood to wood because the sealant is for this purpose.
Third even if the edging was there it is a kind of plastic that does not respond well to sealant.
And last but not least if you leave the edging on either side. When the worktop is joint then this will show on the top facing of the worktop.
Our aim is for the joint to be as invisible as possible.
The joint is OK as long as the walls are square, not very often IMO !!
You can adjust the cut to accommodate for the walls being off square. As you say, they normally are not, so you should expect to have to adjust for that. Been fitting kitchens for nearly 40 years.
brilliant, would that work with white high gloss?
Yes this one is black gloss.
Hi there
Great video just wondering if your based in London and would be able to do this job for me.
Hi, sorry I am not based in London.
Very good with you I would love to see you cutting the work top
Really nice job . Looks beyond my skill set, I will employ someone like you to do it
How is that worktop jig any good please ?
Hi, It is a very good one, but it has only one option for big bolts, I would suggest buying Unika one that has the option for a small bolts worktop.
Thank you to reply, can’t find “Unika One” whych one is that please ?
@@Carpenco2 www.screwfix.com/p/unika-900mm-multi-surface-worktop-jig/419hp
Yes thank you! Your video are so explicit, it make life more easyer thank you for that !
@@PassionforCarpentry I bought both 700 and 900 which you sent and for bolts are the same size
Beautiful work 🎉
Top work. Love the explanation 👌
Thank you.
Hi mate, can you send a link to the jointing kit that you used for this please? That’s a lovely job you did there!
Where about are you from? Anywhere near the West Midlands?!
Thank you mate. I am based in Leicester.
The sealant has to be bought together with the worktop as it needs to match in colour. For bisket and joint bolt you can buy in Screwfix or Amazon.
Thank you your more than welcome to ask any questions you have.
Unika Worktop Sealant & adhesive, 20ml. B&Q £11. You can select from different colors to fit your worktop.
What's the temperature set your heat gun
250 c`
What is the liquid to finish top please???
Hi, that is coming with sealant same colour as worktop .
Unika Worktop Sealant & adhesive, 20ml. B&Q £11. You can select from different colors to fit your worktop.
I didn't have a heat gun so I very carefully set my router to take off the edge. Took ages and was too nerve racking for me.
Set up a fence next time, clamp a level across and use it as a guide
Could of used an iron? Sometimes I manage to take them off without even heating them up.
Have a look at trend KWJ750P does a 3mm mitre on laminate or compact in one pass
@@chriscoulson7684 that's what I did do but it was still nerve racking and took ages. Used a combination square to set my straight edge and clamps but was still proper awkward and hard.
I knew that even a quarter of a mill out would fuck it up. Plus the walls and units weren't dead on square.
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 yeah I feel ya! You could also turn both worktops upside down, and clamp together. Then run your circular saw through the joint. It will cut them perfectly and won’t split the veneer
Do you recommend the biscuits as well not everyone does it
Certainly hadn’t thought of doing it this way, thank you you’ve really taught me something today
Why not use the multi surface worktop jig you have and yes knife was very close to the corner post
Not a bad job at all. If you was closer I would get you to fit my kitchen.
a trick : you can watch series at flixzone. Been using them for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Curtis Nash Definitely, have been using Flixzone} for months myself :D
Where are you based?
EAST MIDLANDS
@@PassionforCarpentry I was hoping you were near London 😊
Gdzie taka paste dostanę , blat .. kremowy ze świecącymi złotymi akcentami.. bardzo podobny wzorem
Nice sharing good job 👍 👍
Thank you so much 🙂
Thanks nice to meet you here
What's the advantage of this joint V's male/female joint using worktop jig?
Going cutting countertop next week and was planning on going with male/female joint but not sure now 🤔
Hi, I find that this join works better and its barely visible once completed because the worktop is square. Either way is doable I just find this works for me.
Good information but the camera angles could have been better,a few more close ups.
Please ask camera man to do close ups, only thing he zoomed in on way your Stanley blade cut before using your heat gun 🤷🤦🏻
How about if you walls we’re not square? I mean not 90’degrees.
In that case you have to play with units and worktop to find the right fit,
If the L IS over 90 degrees you leave both sides same gap or if it is less than 90 you have to plane the worktop both sides the same.
Never plain, just put other worktop on top and mark line from bottom, then cut or route . Can be 85 or 95 angle , never plain, never play with units
Very nice 👍🏾
Nice video, thank you 'PfC' I am fitting a Howden's kitchen with 22mm square edge worktops - 'the look' apparently. Wood grain though so it is not as uniform as your sparkle top! Did you just fit your 'biscuits' loose or were they glued in at some stage in the video? I missed it if so!
You always glue biscuits in as the glue soaks in to them and they swell up nice and tight.
Doing OK until you used color fill as a sealant.
Colour fill states it can be used as a sealant.it is solid and waterproof for joints.i use a good silicone for around kitchen and hob cut outs.
Thats it throw your tools down on the uncovered worktop and scratch it not great look on high gloss
Good
The boss 😎
geat job
Nice vid you could of used an iron instead?
I can not do that as the hot iron would melt the edging due to it being plastic.
Евростык?
Отмечусь
Wrong method