We used your advice from your past videos to rebuild Edna's transmission on our channel last year. Pretty scary at first but now it's not a big deal to tear one apart. We only live 45 minutes from the Early Ford V8 Sales store
This is gold! I inherited a 40 coupe last november and a whole mess of parts 4 motors 3 or 4 transmissons and new and old verious parts some new still in there boxes some used. Alot of my freinds were trying to get me to ditch the flathead(not going to happen) several of these videos ive watched helped me identify things that were just laying around . Thanks for making these videos and passing on information. I will continue to sift thru this gold mine.
They wanted you to "ditch the flathead" because truly GOOD flathead blocks - standard bore, no cracks, rust and corrosion and scale-free are almost impossible to find and it's not a matter of when a flathead block used in a "hot rod" will crack but WHEN unless plain water is used for coolant. Antifreeze makes water a worse coolant. And overhauls with bigger bores and full "valve jobs" along with aftermarket "high performance" exhaust i.e. headers all lead to increased heat loads. So does "cruising" at modern "highway speeds". So do "high performance" parts and tunes and "upgrades" for higher compression. It's also nearly impossible to completely and reliably "magnaflux" those blocks and even when they appear "crack free" there is still a 50% chance of internal coolant leaks. It either will or it won't and the more you "upgrade" a worn-out block with new seats and guides - "upgrades" the block was not designed to "accept" the better the odds it will crack during "upgrading". "High octane" gas needed to keep a "high performance" flathead out of "spark knock" once it's "upgraded" with higher compression, a bigger cam, carburetion etc also contains less energy per gallon AND is harder to "light" and keep "lit" necessitating "more" ignition timing. Which increases heat load. The reason you "inherited" a basket case "project" with "extra" engines and other powertrain parts is because the previous owner was unable to "source" a legitimately GOOD AND SERVICEABLE CYLINDER BLOCK THE "LOCAL" MACHINE/MECHANIC SHOP WOULD "INVEST" ANY AMOUNT OF THEIR TIME IN "INSPECTING" MUCH LESS "BUILDING". IF IT ISN'T IN A RUNNING AND DRIVING - RELIABLY AND DURABLY - VEHICLE THAT DOESN'T "USE WATER" AND DOESN'T HAVE "MILKY OIL" AND DOESN'T NEED MORE THAN A SIMPLE "OVERHAUL" FOR A "PARADE CAR" NO MACHINE SHOP YOU'D WANT "BUILDING" A FLATHEAD WILL "BUILD" A FLATHEAD. THOSE "EXTRA" OR "SPARE" ENGINES ARE SCRAP METAL AND THERE ISN'T A FACTORY FLATHEAD V8-POWERED FORD OUT THERE THAT IS WORTH "SOURCING" AN ACTUALLY GOOD "CORE ENGINE" FOR AFTER IT'S "RESTORED" TO "FACTORY STOCK" CONDITION BECAUSE YOU WILL "SOURCE" 4-5 $800-$1200 BOAT ANCHORS FOR EVERY "GOOD" ENGINE YOU FIND AND THEN IT HAS TO BE GOOD BY MACHINE SHOP STANDARDS RATHER THAN YOURS. AND EVEN THEN IT IS "BUILD" AT YOUR OWN RISK AND ZERO WARRANTY OR GUARANTEE OF ANY KIND. "ANTIQUE" VEHICLES AND POWERTRAIN COMPONENTS END UP IN JUNKYARDS FOR A REASON AND ANYBODY THAT HAD A STOCK "FLATTIE" IN A STOCK "HIGH PERFORMANCE" VEHICLE LIKE A MEDIUM-DUTY "STRAIGHT TRUCK" AND PUSHED THE ENGINE TO ITS "LIMITS" BACK IN THE DAY WILL TELL YOU THE #1 ACHILLES HEEL OF THOSE ENGINES IS COOLING. EVEN IN "STOCK TUNE" AT "ONLY" 90-110 "CLAIMED" HORSEPOWER. WHAT ALL FLATTIE-POWERED "HOT RODS" HAVE IN COMMON IS INSTALLATION IN "CHOPPED" COUPES, ROADSTERS ETC WITH "SIGNIFICANT WEIGHT REDUCTION" AND A LOT LESS "DRAG" THAN FACTORY STOCK FORD V8 VEHICLES ALONG WITH MUCH MORE EFFICIENT POWERTRAINS WITH FAR LESS "POWERTRAIN LOSS" OF "HORSEPOWER". THEY'RE ALSO "CRUISERS" IN THE "FLATLANDS" AND NOT DRIVEN AT "FREEWAY SPEEDS". AND THEY ARE TYPICALLY OVERFUELED WHICH IS A "COOLING AID" IN AND OF ITSELF. SO ARE LOUVERED OR "MISSING" HOODS AND SIDE PANELS. EXPECTING TO "UPGRADE" A FULL-SIZE FORD FLATHEAD-POWERED CAR OR TRUCK AND GET LEGIT "PERFORMANCE INCREASES" WHILE CONTINUING TO USE ANTIQUE TRANNIES AND REAR AXLES AND ADDING WEIGHT WITH "CUSTOM" INTERIOR WORK, MODERN "SAFETY GLASS", SOUND DEADENING ETC ALONG WITH "JUICE BRAKES" IS EXPECTING THE IMPOSSIBLE AND THERE'S A REASON YOU DON'T SEE "POST WAR" FULLSIZE FORD HOT RODS WITH FLATHEADS. AND THERE ARE NO "HIGH PERFORMANCE" FACTORY POWERTRAIN COMPONENTS OR PARTS LIKE "ZEPHYR GEARS" OR "MERCURY ENGINES" THAT ACTUALLY "UPGRADE" FORD VEHICLES WITHOUT AT LEAST AS MANY "TRADEOFFS" AS "BENEFITS".
Gold mine... ROFLMAO. Yeah. Hot-rodders like whoever you "inherited" that mess from ALWAYS "source" extra parts their "build" doesn't require "just in case". When a Ford flathead V8 "project" comes with "extra" engines, transmissions etc it's because the "extras" are SCRAP WITH CRACKED BLOCKS, BROKEN CASES ETC THAT WERE "SOURCED" WHILE TRYING TO "SECURE" AN ACTUALLY GOOD "CORE" WORTH "BUILDING". AND WHEN YOU "INHERIT" A "PROJECT" LIKE THAT IT'S TYPICALLY BECAUSE THE "PREVIOUS OWNER" COULDN'T COME WITHIN MILES OF GETTING WHAT HE HAD "IN IT" BACK "OUT OF IT" WHILE HE WAS ALIVE.
HAMMERPETE I NOTICED THE ON THE THRU OUT BEARING SLEEVE THAT THE SEAL WAS IN BACKWARDS - THE LIP WAS FACING OUT INSTEAD OF TOWARDS THE FRONT BEARING TO KEEP THE OIL IN THE TRANNY..
Hi Bud. I am wondering if you could help me source the 4 speed manual transmission output shaft seal for my 1950 Ford F-1 with the flathead V8 engine? I appreciate the help! thanks!
Great video , I am a ford guy I have a 1946 and 1947 with a colombia overdrive and the v8 great show thanks, Arthur from Denmark.
Great video as always. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Jay!
We used your advice from your past videos to rebuild Edna's transmission on our channel last year. Pretty scary at first but now it's not a big deal to tear one apart. We only live 45 minutes from the Early Ford V8 Sales store
Great video! Tons of info, just blew up 2nd gear in mine, perfect timing on the video
Thank you I appreciate it! Should be an easy fix!
This is gold! I inherited a 40 coupe last november and a whole mess of parts 4 motors 3 or 4 transmissons and new and old verious parts some new still in there boxes some used. Alot of my freinds were trying to get me to ditch the flathead(not going to happen) several of these videos ive watched helped me identify things that were just laying around . Thanks for making these videos and passing on information. I will continue to sift thru this gold mine.
They wanted you to "ditch the flathead" because truly GOOD flathead blocks - standard bore, no cracks, rust and corrosion and scale-free are almost impossible to find and it's not a matter of when a flathead block used in a "hot rod" will crack but WHEN unless plain water is used for coolant.
Antifreeze makes water a worse coolant. And overhauls with bigger bores and full "valve jobs" along with aftermarket "high performance" exhaust i.e. headers all lead to increased heat loads. So does "cruising" at modern "highway speeds". So do "high performance" parts and tunes and "upgrades" for higher compression.
It's also nearly impossible to completely and reliably "magnaflux" those blocks and even when they appear "crack free" there is still a 50% chance of internal coolant leaks. It either will or it won't and the more you "upgrade" a worn-out block with new seats and guides - "upgrades" the block was not designed to "accept" the better the odds it will crack during "upgrading".
"High octane" gas needed to keep a "high performance" flathead out of "spark knock" once it's "upgraded" with higher compression, a bigger cam, carburetion etc also contains less energy per gallon AND is harder to "light" and keep "lit" necessitating "more" ignition timing. Which increases heat load.
The reason you "inherited" a basket case "project" with "extra" engines and other powertrain parts is because the previous owner was unable to "source" a legitimately GOOD AND SERVICEABLE CYLINDER BLOCK THE "LOCAL" MACHINE/MECHANIC SHOP WOULD "INVEST" ANY AMOUNT OF THEIR TIME IN "INSPECTING" MUCH LESS "BUILDING".
IF IT ISN'T IN A RUNNING AND DRIVING - RELIABLY AND DURABLY - VEHICLE THAT DOESN'T "USE WATER" AND DOESN'T HAVE "MILKY OIL" AND DOESN'T NEED MORE THAN A SIMPLE "OVERHAUL" FOR A "PARADE CAR" NO MACHINE SHOP YOU'D WANT "BUILDING" A FLATHEAD WILL "BUILD" A FLATHEAD.
THOSE "EXTRA" OR "SPARE" ENGINES ARE SCRAP METAL AND THERE ISN'T A FACTORY FLATHEAD V8-POWERED FORD OUT THERE THAT IS WORTH "SOURCING" AN ACTUALLY GOOD "CORE ENGINE" FOR AFTER IT'S "RESTORED" TO "FACTORY STOCK" CONDITION BECAUSE YOU WILL "SOURCE" 4-5 $800-$1200 BOAT ANCHORS FOR EVERY "GOOD" ENGINE YOU FIND AND THEN IT HAS TO BE GOOD BY MACHINE SHOP STANDARDS RATHER THAN YOURS.
AND EVEN THEN IT IS "BUILD" AT YOUR OWN RISK AND ZERO WARRANTY OR GUARANTEE OF ANY KIND.
"ANTIQUE" VEHICLES AND POWERTRAIN COMPONENTS END UP IN JUNKYARDS FOR A REASON AND ANYBODY THAT HAD A STOCK "FLATTIE" IN A STOCK "HIGH PERFORMANCE" VEHICLE LIKE A MEDIUM-DUTY "STRAIGHT TRUCK" AND PUSHED THE ENGINE TO ITS "LIMITS" BACK IN THE DAY WILL TELL YOU THE #1 ACHILLES HEEL OF THOSE ENGINES IS COOLING. EVEN IN "STOCK TUNE" AT "ONLY" 90-110 "CLAIMED" HORSEPOWER.
WHAT ALL FLATTIE-POWERED "HOT RODS" HAVE IN COMMON IS INSTALLATION IN "CHOPPED" COUPES, ROADSTERS ETC WITH "SIGNIFICANT WEIGHT REDUCTION" AND A LOT LESS "DRAG" THAN FACTORY STOCK FORD V8 VEHICLES ALONG WITH MUCH MORE EFFICIENT POWERTRAINS WITH FAR LESS "POWERTRAIN LOSS" OF "HORSEPOWER".
THEY'RE ALSO "CRUISERS" IN THE "FLATLANDS" AND NOT DRIVEN AT "FREEWAY SPEEDS". AND THEY ARE TYPICALLY OVERFUELED WHICH IS A "COOLING AID" IN AND OF ITSELF. SO ARE LOUVERED OR "MISSING" HOODS AND SIDE PANELS.
EXPECTING TO "UPGRADE" A FULL-SIZE FORD FLATHEAD-POWERED CAR OR TRUCK AND GET LEGIT "PERFORMANCE INCREASES" WHILE CONTINUING TO USE ANTIQUE TRANNIES AND REAR AXLES AND ADDING WEIGHT WITH "CUSTOM" INTERIOR WORK, MODERN "SAFETY GLASS", SOUND DEADENING ETC ALONG WITH "JUICE BRAKES" IS EXPECTING THE IMPOSSIBLE AND THERE'S A REASON YOU DON'T SEE "POST WAR" FULLSIZE FORD HOT RODS WITH FLATHEADS.
AND THERE ARE NO "HIGH PERFORMANCE" FACTORY POWERTRAIN COMPONENTS OR PARTS LIKE "ZEPHYR GEARS" OR "MERCURY ENGINES" THAT ACTUALLY "UPGRADE" FORD VEHICLES WITHOUT AT LEAST AS MANY "TRADEOFFS" AS "BENEFITS".
Gold mine... ROFLMAO. Yeah. Hot-rodders like whoever you "inherited" that mess from ALWAYS "source" extra parts their "build" doesn't require "just in case".
When a Ford flathead V8 "project" comes with "extra" engines, transmissions etc it's because the "extras" are SCRAP WITH CRACKED BLOCKS, BROKEN CASES ETC THAT WERE "SOURCED" WHILE TRYING TO "SECURE" AN ACTUALLY GOOD "CORE" WORTH "BUILDING".
AND WHEN YOU "INHERIT" A "PROJECT" LIKE THAT IT'S TYPICALLY BECAUSE THE "PREVIOUS OWNER" COULDN'T COME WITHIN MILES OF GETTING WHAT HE HAD "IN IT" BACK "OUT OF IT" WHILE HE WAS ALIVE.
Would that trans fit ford y block ?
Thanks love your video s
Very good !
That hand soap work s 🇺🇸great too
None of them unless you have a bell housing conversion, then all the top loaders would fit
I'd like to see a video on rebuilding a T87-D transmission. I cant find any books or parts for them.
That was good to know i will be doing my 1950 f truck it won’t stay in second gear pops out gear
HAMMERPETE I NOTICED THE ON THE THRU OUT BEARING SLEEVE THAT THE SEAL WAS IN BACKWARDS - THE LIP WAS FACING OUT INSTEAD OF TOWARDS THE FRONT BEARING TO KEEP THE OIL IN THE TRANNY..
I also noticed that he installed the seal backwards that's why I even looked at the comments on this video to see if anyone else caught that.
Freeze the shaft, and heat the bearing up in a hot oil tub. Easy peasy
Hi Bud. I am wondering if you could help me source the 4 speed manual transmission output shaft seal for my 1950 Ford F-1 with the flathead V8 engine? I appreciate the help! thanks!
What's the difference between the Zephyr gears and the ford gears
Very good tech, thanks! I wonder if there is an easy way to tell Zephyr gears from regular Ford gears or is it just gear ratio what is different?
One of my last videos I break down the differences between the gears so you can tell which one is which
Thanks, I may have missed that video, thou I usually watch all your videos. I have to look it up. 👍
Thanks, I may have missed that video, thou I usually watch all your videos. I have to look it up. 👍
@@kooilari No problem, thank you for watching my video!
Zack, when you did the trans. on your '47 did you remove it from underneath or thru the interior? Need to do mine soon. Thanks. Love the channel.
Great info! Just have one question, do the front and rear ball bearings get greased at all?
What oil do you use in the transmission?
600 weight. That’s what they are designed for and came with originally 👍🏼
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop thanks man appreciate it!
@@jamessoares516 anytime hope your project goes well
Silicone hasn't been around 70-80 years and "honing" the shaft bores for a "better fit" sure as hell contributes to leakage. And spinning shafts.