They also make a “slim line” brake booster - avoids clearance /carb issues . Brake pedal will need a shim in the connecting hole (it’s larger than rod from the power buster-to much slop)
You have to cut third brake lines, and change the fittings to the right size, then use a double flaring tool to reflare them to work, and I knew you were going to spill that oil, cause I just did the same job you did, 🙂
Also the your frame /engine flexes differently than the body . Likely you’re still going to have issues with the linkage hitting . Brakes lines have those coils in the for a reason . They too flex . Make new lines .
LOL at 5:55 man i just know thats gonna be my luck too haha. thankfully i have a leak in my seal against the firewall somehow so its empty now when i do my swap 😂🤭
You need to invest in a turkey baster for sucking fluids out, and a rag to cover up your carburetor so that metal shavings do not go down into the carburetor into your cylinders.
The power of an old plastic turkey baster, to soak up those oil reservoirs - before you spilled them, or maybe the reservoir cap could have stayed on? At least your laughing at your mistake.
That's a good example video. Thanks! I have some questions, I have a same new brake system for my JEEP CJ. I did fins some problem, this part was missing, a plastic dust seal ( the plastic seal with the push rod inside the booster) between the booster and brake master cylinder. Do you think it will affect the brake system? If yes, how can get that part? Also, is that any problem if I put the original style brake master cylinder into the new brake booster? Thank you!
The part of the carb that your return spring is hooked to is for automatic trans kick down, you could have cut more off of the top of that linkage arm and relocated the spring down low to pull back like it is supposed to. You should take your jeep to a shop if you don't know what you're doing. And cover your carb when your cutting
Alright, back to watch this for the second time. I decided to go ahead and do this on my CJ7, and then my memory said "I watched a video once where a guy in Margate...or somewhere down the Jersey Shore, did this to his." So...I found you again. Hey, don't put it on upside down this time.
You purchased the wrong master cylinder brake booster dude.Bring it to a shop next time,instead of saying i dont know over and over.E for effort tho mate.Chin up
So, question right off the bat. If you have time to answer, that is. The system you bought does not have a proportioning valve. I am deciding what to buy, and a system with a proportioning valve is only about $30 more. Is there a reason you chose not to have one in a CJ, or should I go ahead and get one with it, since the price is right?
Buy with a proportioning valve especially if front Disc / Rear Drum brakes. Otherwise you'd have to add a valve at the rear end regardless and would be more work for you. This kits includes fittings to reduce a standard brake fitting to smaller size ports in the proportioning valve. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the information. I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my 82 CJ7.
Going to be doing this on mine soon. Thanks for the video!
They also make a “slim line” brake booster - avoids clearance /carb issues . Brake pedal will need a shim in the connecting hole (it’s larger than rod from the power buster-to much slop)
The moment you realize the bracket is upside down and you probably could have cleared the throttle adjuster
i know this is an old comment but are you sure the bracket is upside down?
You have to cut third brake lines, and change the fittings to the right size, then use a double flaring tool to reflare them to work, and I knew you were going to spill that oil, cause I just did the same job you did, 🙂
Also the your frame /engine flexes differently than the body . Likely you’re still going to have issues with the linkage hitting . Brakes lines have those coils in the for a reason . They too flex . Make new lines .
LOL at 5:55 man i just know thats gonna be my luck too haha. thankfully i have a leak in my seal against the firewall somehow so its empty now when i do my swap 😂🤭
You need to invest in a turkey baster for sucking fluids out, and a rag to cover up your carburetor so that metal shavings do not go down into the carburetor into your cylinders.
All in ur carb. Great for valve seating. Metal filings are good to fill cracks in rings
Not sure if you figured it out but, I'd switch the lines.
“The hole in the firewall “ you will have to make a plate and buy a Grommet to seal that hole
The power of an old plastic turkey baster, to soak up those oil reservoirs - before you spilled them, or maybe the reservoir cap could have stayed on? At least your laughing at your mistake.
Nice f__kin' toolbox, brother!
Thanks! I'm def a tool junkey.
That's a good example video. Thanks! I have some questions, I have a same new brake system for my JEEP CJ. I did fins some problem, this part was missing, a plastic dust seal ( the plastic seal with the push rod inside the booster) between the booster and brake master cylinder. Do you think it will affect the brake system? If yes, how can get that part? Also, is that any problem if I put the original style brake master cylinder into the new brake booster? Thank you!
I'm going to put one of these in my jeep two weeks. I bought the booster, and new brake fluid. Is there anything else I need other than tools?
Who makes a drum to disc brakes kit for a 1980 Jeep cj 5
how did you lower the brake pedal after the install
The part of the carb that your return spring is hooked to is for automatic trans kick down, you could have cut more off of the top of that linkage arm and relocated the spring down low to pull back like it is supposed to. You should take your jeep to a shop if you don't know what you're doing. And cover your carb when your cutting
Alright, back to watch this for the second time. I decided to go ahead and do this on my CJ7, and then my memory said "I watched a video once where a guy in Margate...or somewhere down the Jersey Shore, did this to his."
So...I found you again. Hey, don't put it on upside down this time.
Next time leave the lid on and leave a nut on the outside before you unhook the brake pedal .
Maybe its good my garage is filled with junk, and i don't have alot of power tools.
You purchased the wrong master cylinder brake booster dude.Bring it to a shop next time,instead of saying i dont know over and over.E for effort tho mate.Chin up
So, question right off the bat. If you have time to answer, that is.
The system you bought does not have a proportioning valve. I am deciding what to buy, and a system with a proportioning valve is only about $30 more. Is there a reason you chose not to have one in a CJ, or should I go ahead and get one with it, since the price is right?
Buy with a proportioning valve especially if front Disc / Rear Drum brakes. Otherwise you'd have to add a valve at the rear end regardless and would be more work for you. This kits includes fittings to reduce a standard brake fitting to smaller size ports in the proportioning valve. Hope this helps.
My oem prop valve is mounted below on the frame rail on my non-power brake 85 CJ
love the video but jesus who picked the music
Had to fast forward. Could not bare to watch you shave that linkage again.
oil always finds a way to land on the exhaust..
Run sand in ur next oil change. It helps by removing sludge.
Lmfbo 🤣
Dude... Why you trollN
😢😢