Thanks for watching and your input. Not everyone does, so best to ask what their service entails before giving it to someone. Spread the word about the channel.
Very comprehensive and informative as always, nicely done. I enjoy your videos providing insight before my annual servicing now, during the winter here in the NE. Cheers!
Took my 50sw apart for the first time since new in '86 a couple years back. It was missing parts from the factory! Must have been a Friday afternoon unit.
One engineer say to me, that brass gears in heavy construction (like heavy machinery) must have a some luft. If brass mechanisms haven't luft - they're melting when working, like a butter under sun.and Maybe it correctly about reels.
I suppose I'm no fun, in that I spray down every fastener with a penetrating lubricant before I start. Instead of a adjustable wrench, a deep socket allows for more torque and doesn't scratch the surface. That reel was in surprisingly good shape for a Florida salt water reel. Usually, they've got corrosion pits all over. On the older handles, what do you use to remove the grease fitting in the handle? That's about the only part that I'm unable to source. OBTW, the screw in the drag lever is a very pricey little fellow. It's a 12-28X3/8", and must have been specially made for Penn.
Thanks for checking out the video! I'm not sure if you're no fun, but I am sure you do those things because a lifetime of servicing reels has taught you to. There's more than one way to skin a cat. Some are, but most aren't. I showed this in one of the more recent international videos, but don't remember which one..... browse through them..... I think it was at the beginning of the video somewhere. If you're talking about the eccentric knob screw, the sub is better priced.
@@TSGReelService The drag lever screw I'm referring to is part number 112A050 Eccentric Knob Screw, was discontinued a while ago. The places that had the screw which previously sold for under $6.00 jacked the price up to over $20.00. My reference to scratching surfaces was when you mentioned taking caution to remove the reel seat screws and rod clamp screws. Using a deep socket allows for torque to be applied to all 6 surfaces of the fastener instead of only two. I'm impressed that you take the time to completely disassemble the reel, instead of slapping some grease on it and calling it good.
You sound like a subscriber!!!! Thanks!!! But, even if you're not, thanks for sticking around with me for more than one video. Yes, that's correct for the most part.... I would probably leave the bearings with plastic on side alone, but even they can be worked on (I've done it, but not suggesting you try). Just remember, if you have rust in them, you're better off getting new bearings. You can still use the cleaning solution I use in the video on sealed bearings, but you'll likely need to do a few rounds of it, and soak them longer each time, since it's less effective and takes longer to break the grime down.... problem with this is that if the solution breaks off a piece of dense grime, but not enough for it to drain out, it may affect the performance of your bearing. Nice stripers!
@@TSGReelService Yeah man no doubt, I subscribed to your content pretty much after I watched your bearing teardown and oil comparison video. There aren't many TH-cam nerds out there that really break down the technicalities of these sometimes intricate devices that catch things with gills. I'd love to know how you were able to access that bearing even further. I could punch it and remove the shield like you described and try to service it but it doesn't seem that dire. I dropped some "liquid bearings" to the edges of the shielded bearing and it loosened up a bit. Would a rusty bearing make a noticeable sound with these larger bearings? They surely do on spool bearings on my smaller class spinning gear
@@TSGReelService I checked on CRC's website and they say to avoid rubber and plastic with their brake cleaners. I was thinking about using denatured alcohol (as recommended from TH-camr Tackle advisors). Have you tried this or similar with plastic containing pieces?
@@coolerfullofish Thanks! I had this channel in mind back in 2017ish.... showing complete breakdowns, as most everyone else were just showing basic stuff. However, I didn't jump on it until a few years later. It's a lot of work showing every little detail on reels, but the truth of the matter is that's how I service most reels, so showing a "made-for-the-youtube-attention-span-audience" basic service like everyone else, and then doing a full service afterward just didn't make a lot of sense. Though, that's why you don't see me doing a bunch of videos. Now regarding the bearing, I don't know of a surefire way to remove all rust from a bearing, and if it did, there would likely be pitting on the balls, which would cause trouble. The bearings, when slowly spinning them between your fingers, will feel crunchy, have "hiccups", or not spin well. This also happens if there's significant crud buildup. So, for the bearings with the plastic case on one side, I punch out the metal cover from the other side and blast the brake cleaner through it using one of those rc bearing blaster dohicky tools, while checking the plastic periodically.... the plastic is tougher than you think, but you shouldn't risk it for too long. Then I soak them in alcohol, manually test them using my fingers and/or compressed air, and repeat the process, if necessary.
@@coolerfullofish See my previous response, but the ethanol based alcohol you mention is an excellent alternative to soak them in. I would still remove the shields. I don't think I've ever tried denatured alcohol (never really needed to), but may purchase some and do a bearing cleaning comparison between that and the brake cleaner, to see how they compare. Keep an eye out for it down the road.
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Always wondered what these looked like inside. If I were to have someone else service my reels I would want them to do what you do. Very thorough.
Thanks for watching and your input. Not everyone does, so best to ask what their service entails before giving it to someone. Spread the word about the channel.
Very comprehensive and informative as always, nicely done. I enjoy your videos providing insight before my annual servicing now, during the winter here in the NE. Cheers!
Thanks brother! Happy to help! Stay warm up there!!!
Took my 50sw apart for the first time since new in '86 a couple years back. It was missing parts from the factory! Must have been a Friday afternoon unit.
Either that or you lost/misplaced them. We're all human. Spread the word about the channel.
Big job on a big reel. 👍 Thanks and happy new year.
Thanks Steve! Likewise!!!!!! Hope you had a good one!
Thank you.
You're very welcome and thanks for watching! Spread the word about the channel.
Thanks for the excellent detailed tutorial. Have a great Sunday and a great week!
Tad
Thanks Tad! Likewise! Hope you had a great new year,!
One engineer say to me, that brass gears in heavy construction (like heavy machinery) must have a some luft. If brass mechanisms haven't luft - they're melting when working, like a butter under sun.and Maybe it correctly about reels.
Thanks for checking out the video and your input. Good thing it doesn't apply to fishing reels. More vids to come.
I suppose I'm no fun, in that I spray down every fastener with a penetrating lubricant before I start. Instead of a adjustable wrench, a deep socket allows for more torque and doesn't scratch the surface.
That reel was in surprisingly good shape for a Florida salt water reel. Usually, they've got corrosion pits all over.
On the older handles, what do you use to remove the grease fitting in the handle? That's about the only part that I'm unable to source. OBTW, the screw in the drag lever is a very pricey little fellow. It's a 12-28X3/8", and must have been specially made for Penn.
Thanks for checking out the video!
I'm not sure if you're no fun, but I am sure you do those things because a lifetime of servicing reels has taught you to. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Some are, but most aren't.
I showed this in one of the more recent international videos, but don't remember which one..... browse through them..... I think it was at the beginning of the video somewhere. If you're talking about the eccentric knob screw, the sub is better priced.
@@TSGReelService
The drag lever screw I'm referring to is part number 112A050 Eccentric Knob Screw, was discontinued a while ago. The places that had the screw which previously sold for under $6.00 jacked the price up to over $20.00.
My reference to scratching surfaces was when you mentioned taking caution to remove the reel seat screws and rod clamp screws. Using a deep socket allows for torque to be applied to all 6 surfaces of the fastener instead of only two.
I'm impressed that you take the time to completely disassemble the reel, instead of slapping some grease on it and calling it good.
Great Job as always!!
Thanks!
Thank you so much !
You're welcome and thanks for watching! Hit the thumbs up and spread the word about the channel.
Hello i w a s wondering Where can I buy the drag washers for the penn International 30 tw ll
Thanks for checking out the video. Try eBay or MysticParts.
I assume the bearings are not self serviceable without breaking the shield? (like in your bearing video)
You sound like a subscriber!!!! Thanks!!! But, even if you're not, thanks for sticking around with me for more than one video. Yes, that's correct for the most part.... I would probably leave the bearings with plastic on side alone, but even they can be worked on (I've done it, but not suggesting you try). Just remember, if you have rust in them, you're better off getting new bearings.
You can still use the cleaning solution I use in the video on sealed bearings, but you'll likely need to do a few rounds of it, and soak them longer each time, since it's less effective and takes longer to break the grime down.... problem with this is that if the solution breaks off a piece of dense grime, but not enough for it to drain out, it may affect the performance of your bearing.
Nice stripers!
@@TSGReelService Yeah man no doubt, I subscribed to your content pretty much after I watched your bearing teardown and oil comparison video. There aren't many TH-cam nerds out there that really break down the technicalities of these sometimes intricate devices that catch things with gills.
I'd love to know how you were able to access that bearing even further. I could punch it and remove the shield like you described and try to service it but it doesn't seem that dire. I dropped some "liquid bearings" to the edges of the shielded bearing and it loosened up a bit. Would a rusty bearing make a noticeable sound with these larger bearings? They surely do on spool bearings on my smaller class spinning gear
@@TSGReelService I checked on CRC's website and they say to avoid rubber and plastic with their brake cleaners. I was thinking about using denatured alcohol (as recommended from TH-camr Tackle advisors). Have you tried this or similar with plastic containing pieces?
@@coolerfullofish Thanks! I had this channel in mind back in 2017ish.... showing complete breakdowns, as most everyone else were just showing basic stuff. However, I didn't jump on it until a few years later. It's a lot of work showing every little detail on reels, but the truth of the matter is that's how I service most reels, so showing a "made-for-the-youtube-attention-span-audience" basic service like everyone else, and then doing a full service afterward just didn't make a lot of sense. Though, that's why you don't see me doing a bunch of videos.
Now regarding the bearing, I don't know of a surefire way to remove all rust from a bearing, and if it did, there would likely be pitting on the balls, which would cause trouble. The bearings, when slowly spinning them between your fingers, will feel crunchy, have "hiccups", or not spin well. This also happens if there's significant crud buildup. So, for the bearings with the plastic case on one side, I punch out the metal cover from the other side and blast the brake cleaner through it using one of those rc bearing blaster dohicky tools, while checking the plastic periodically.... the plastic is tougher than you think, but you shouldn't risk it for too long. Then I soak them in alcohol, manually test them using my fingers and/or compressed air, and repeat the process, if necessary.
@@coolerfullofish See my previous response, but the ethanol based alcohol you mention is an excellent alternative to soak them in. I would still remove the shields. I don't think I've ever tried denatured alcohol (never really needed to), but may purchase some and do a bearing cleaning comparison between that and the brake cleaner, to see how they compare. Keep an eye out for it down the road.
bearing size like in automobile lol
Lol