This series of shows goes slowly and carefully and demonstrates technique -- and isn't a non-stop advertisement for a parts supplier like so many others. This truck is real, it's rotten, it's not pre-sanitized for speed-shooting. It's honest. Excellent. This is the show I've been looking for--and the two guys aren't clowns cutting up from scripted crap dialogue. Really very refreshing.
This was a great video that u guys put out there for beginners like me and my son on a 1966 C10 frame off. This is a father and son build he is only 18 years old and I'm very proud of him what he has accomplished with the inner and outer rocker replacement from just watching you tube video I wish u guys could see it. Please keep those videos coming after he gets done with both sides then we r going to tackle the long to a short bed .....
I'm right on the verge of this...I'm doing my tailgate & doors first, then I'm hitting that cab with everything I got...I just spent a little over $700 on patch panels, & didn't even get quite everything I needed for the whole truck, but I'm gonna have quite a bit of leftovers for fabbing up a few patches too...just welded in my very first panel, not the prettiest, but having not struck an arc in well over 20 years, it's close enough...Lol! Just gotta make good friends with the grinder...Lol! And I only blew 4 holes in it, two of which, I've already dobbed up...I couldn't be prouder of those sloppy welds! Lol! 🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Great video! I would have loved to watch this video before I tackled my a-pillar and inner rocker. Although I am getting some insight on the b-pillar and where to pie cut it. Thanks
You should check out Internal Frame Coating. It's great for coating the inside of rockers, A/B-Pillars and frames. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html
Eastwood Company yeah I actually used some on my a-pillar before I welded it up. Eastwood Alsip is really close to me so I'm in there all the time. First name basis at this point, LOL
Yes, I will you thumbs up on equipment and teaching the next generation to learn. Aftermarket patch panels a far from perfect as a GM Certified tailgate cost extra and meant to make you feel good. The problem comes when the upper right 8” is 3/16” thicker than the truck, next to the tail light pocket that was un-molested. After all, these panels are metal on top of metal. There is going to a need for pie-cuts and trimming, but I feel different about this. You used the hole punch/flange tool out for spot welds on rocker. Most will find these thick metal too hard to fully flange at about 1/2” of the tools capacity. Scribe your line, good compressor & line, but cut to the scribe line at 1/4”. This will handle 18 gauge metal, making it fit flush. Yes, a butt weld is needed in many areas but a small flange lip is stronger, absorbs more heat and call allow for a flush full weld. Grinding, flap disc or sanding will remove 80% of the weld. Also, a flange makes the metal stiff, like a body line eliminates flexing. I you plan, it can be done. I have even heated the metal to flange. I think rust encapsulator is a fine product but a good brush on seam sealer on both sides will keep water out of pinholes. This was a lot for the kid to learn, but he paid attention and learned! Retired auto tech
After watching this series I have learned a wealth of information. I noticed the foot well patch panel was not installed it goes between the inner rocker and door pillar patch. How did Kenny make the repair? Also, Why did you not rosette weld the top of the outer rocker to the inner rocker like the factory? Great video. I am almost finished with the driver side on my 68C20. Eastwood for life!
Seam Sealer is designed to seal seams in sheet metal (example: where floor pans meet). Rust Encapsulator and POR 15 are designed to seal rusty metal so the rust doesn't continue to grow and spread. If you're looking to stop rust, you should check out Rust Encapsulator Platinum which destroyed the competition in Independent testing, including the standard salt spray chamber tests. Here it is: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-platinum.html
It really depends on how bad the rust is and how far back it goes. Also the level of repair quality will drastically affect the price, you can probally find a hack who would overlap weld the new metal over the rust and bondo it in for a few hundred bucks but it will not last and will not look right. To get actual restoration level work done will easily cost $1,000 or more especially if they paint the new parts and blend them.into the existing paint job. You would have to contact some local body shops or restoration shops and get a quote or estimate.
One thing I noticed was that on the rear outer rocker you guys stitched the top edge rather than what the factory did which was spot weld it , was there any reason for that ? Just a cleaner look or fitment ?
This series of shows goes slowly and carefully and demonstrates technique -- and isn't a non-stop advertisement for a parts supplier like so many others. This truck is real, it's rotten, it's not pre-sanitized for speed-shooting. It's honest. Excellent. This is the show I've been looking for--and the two guys aren't clowns cutting up from scripted crap dialogue. Really very refreshing.
This is a great series. I'm planning on doing rocker panels on my 84 C10, this really helps. Thanks
This was a great video that u guys put out there for beginners like me and my son on a 1966 C10 frame off. This is a father and son build he is only 18 years old and I'm very proud of him what he has accomplished with the inner and outer rocker replacement from just watching you tube video I wish u guys could see it. Please keep those videos coming after he gets done with both sides then we r going to tackle the long to a short bed .....
Awesome. Make sure you share pics with us on Facebook and Instagram!
I have a 66 C10 planning to do the same thing..I have not started yet.
@@timelliott5546 Don't be scared! 😨
Thanks for these videos really learned a lot now I’m more confident making these repairs on my c10
We love to hear that! Good luck on your project.
This was awesome to watch! Kenny is a lucky guy to be shown by the master.. good luck with the rest of the work!
I'm right on the verge of this...I'm doing my tailgate & doors first, then I'm hitting that cab with everything I got...I just spent a little over $700 on patch panels, & didn't even get quite everything I needed for the whole truck, but I'm gonna have quite a bit of leftovers for fabbing up a few patches too...just welded in my very first panel, not the prettiest, but having not struck an arc in well over 20 years, it's close enough...Lol! Just gotta make good friends with the grinder...Lol! And I only blew 4 holes in it, two of which, I've already dobbed up...I couldn't be prouder of those sloppy welds! Lol! 🖖🏿😎👍🏿
Great job, another old truck saved from the scrap yard.
This is exactly what I needed. Nice job on the work and the video!
Glad to hear it!
I just seen at 6:35 the use of the pie cut. Learning alot here. Thanks for posting.
Outstand series, well done and patience is a virtue. Great teacher!
Great series guys. Hope you do more of these.
You did a excellent job. Keep up the good work and can't wait to see it finished.
Labor intensive art, good job.
Any more follow up videos eastwood thanks great series
ive just tore i side of my 67 this is an awsome intruction hope i dont get overwelmed thx guys
Great show guys im learning alot great info👍
Great video guys !, thanks for making it and sharing it with us ! just started into mine now Just received those stitch weld magnets which are sweet !
Great video! I would have loved to watch this video before I tackled my a-pillar and inner rocker. Although I am getting some insight on the b-pillar and where to pie cut it. Thanks
You should check out Internal Frame Coating. It's great for coating the inside of rockers, A/B-Pillars and frames. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html
Eastwood Company yeah I actually used some on my a-pillar before I welded it up. Eastwood Alsip is really close to me so I'm in there all the time. First name basis at this point, LOL
Great job guys!
Good Work my minions ,Should make more Videos Like These
a great teacher
Awesome videos!
Matt is awesome.
Pie cut trick pretty cool I will remember
Yes, I will you thumbs up on equipment and teaching the next generation to learn. Aftermarket patch panels a far from perfect as a GM Certified tailgate cost extra and meant to make you feel good. The problem comes when the upper right 8” is 3/16” thicker than the truck, next to the tail light pocket that was un-molested. After all, these panels are metal on top of metal. There is going to a need for pie-cuts and trimming, but I feel different about this. You used the hole punch/flange tool out for spot welds on rocker. Most will find these thick metal too hard to fully flange at about 1/2” of the tools capacity. Scribe your line, good compressor & line, but cut to the scribe line at 1/4”. This will handle 18 gauge metal, making it fit flush. Yes, a butt weld is needed in many areas but a small flange lip is stronger, absorbs more heat and call allow for a flush full weld. Grinding, flap disc or sanding will remove 80% of the weld. Also, a flange makes the metal stiff, like a body line eliminates flexing. I you plan, it can be done. I have even heated the metal to flange. I think rust encapsulator is a fine product but a good brush on seam sealer on both sides will keep water out of pinholes. This was a lot for the kid to learn, but he paid attention and learned!
Retired auto tech
Cool project.
LINK TO BUY in the video and description above, SUBSCRIBE for future videos!
After watching this series I have learned a wealth of information. I noticed the foot well patch panel was not installed it goes between the inner rocker and door pillar patch. How did Kenny make the repair? Also, Why did you not rosette weld the top of the outer rocker to the inner rocker like the factory? Great video. I am almost finished with the driver side on my 68C20. Eastwood for life!
Nippers! Thanks guys.
when cutting "a" pillar how do you know where to line up bottom edge? if not properly located the hole the fender mounts to will not line up
how do you get the kick panel in afterwards?
Is Eastwood Rust Encapsulator the same as or equivalent to a seam sealer or is it more like a Por15 type product?
Seam Sealer is designed to seal seams in sheet metal (example: where floor pans meet). Rust Encapsulator and POR 15 are designed to seal rusty metal so the rust doesn't continue to grow and spread. If you're looking to stop rust, you should check out Rust Encapsulator Platinum which destroyed the competition in Independent testing, including the standard salt spray chamber tests. Here it is: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-platinum.html
great video, where's the best place to buy panels
Great job ! Where did you guys buy parts from ?
nice job. where did you guys buy the body parts for this job?
Brothers Trucks in Southern California
so the truck doesnt have to drive around on salty roads at all?
There seems to be a nasty gap in the middle of the rocker. Or, is that just an optical illusion?
How many hours did this take?
So I can figure tacking on an additional 3 months for my project
lol true true!
How many hours did that repair take?
Like eating an Elephant, do it one bite at a time.
I can’t do this stuff don’t have the time facility not the tools or know how... how much would one have to pay to have someone do this to my 1972 C10?
It really depends on how bad the rust is and how far back it goes. Also the level of repair quality will drastically affect the price, you can probally find a hack who would overlap weld the new metal over the rust and bondo it in for a few hundred bucks but it will not last and will not look right. To get actual restoration level work done will easily cost $1,000 or more especially if they paint the new parts and blend them.into the existing paint job. You would have to contact some local body shops or restoration shops and get a quote or estimate.
all i know is i'm glad i got the cab i got for free with 0% rust that is a lot of work
Any updates on this project?
Hmm... how come they didn’t plug weld the top of the outer rocker to the inner rocker edge as factory did it
Did they choose not to do it ? Yikes 😬
One thing I noticed was that on the rear outer rocker you guys stitched the top edge rather than what the factory did which was spot weld it , was there any reason for that ? Just a cleaner look or fitment ?
I noticed that too. They didn't use spot welds along the top of the rocker panel either.
Anyone else notice they missed plug welding the outer rocker panel along the top to secure it to the top edge of the inner rocker
My 72 is available for another series of videos. Ill even help
is it just me or does the middle of the rocker bowing out a hugh amount?
THE ONE THAT DOES NOTHING NEVER SCEWS UP
Why do these tools used here look like Harbor Freight Tools
.