@@upcyclethepastutp9901 I understand, but regarding the head this is understandable, but they say that when removing the crankshaft, they also need to be replaced with new ones
Very good restoration video. It would get more interesting if you put a turbocharger on that diesel engine I'm doing that on my vw mk1 caddy. I hope to see more videos of this restoration, greetings from El Salvador.
I had a turbo diesel 1.6 mk2 golf and they are bad ... They love to boil the water, wrap the cylinder head, fry the gasket... My goal is to have the cleanest 1.6 NA diesel in Romania ! Slow but no boiling water up the hill XD. It would make more sense to swap the engine for a 1.9 turbo diesel if you eant some turbo action !
It's the same paint i used on the other parts where i used compressed air, but the block is super heavy to move it around while painting so i chose to aply it with a paint brush with two thic layers if paint
Great video! Question: Were you re-using the original crankshaft bearings? I noticed you did not go through the process of using plasti-guage when installing the bearings and was wondering why.
Why on God's green earth would you grease a soft plug????? Exactly opposite of ANY common sense. Leave the back frost plug OUT until after you install the int. shaft. Why? Because you can use your finger to aid in placement of the shaft (when it slides in) and therefore avoid scarring that back int. shaft bearing face. The problem with painting one of these blocks black is that it makes detecting origin of leaks difficult. If you were concerned with particles of sand/metal on the journals, why the hell did you not use the carb cleaner to spray out the journal passageways? If you go to the extent of spending on new pistons, you sure as hell do NOT want to re-install new piston pins in old piston pin bushings. New pins needed to be installed and very accurately honed to fit the new pins. This is NOT a matter of cornholing a low-horsepower engine with all these shortcuts, it is a matter of right and wrong and longevity following the build. Additionally, the conn rods should have been reconditioned and new bearings installed. And, the top compression ring should be very carefully placed 180 degrees OPPOSITE of the exhaust valve and the 2nd compression ring installed 180 degrees off THAT gap. More cornhole shortcuts. You rammed that int. shaft into the hole with no regard to whether or not you were scarring that back bearing. This is why the back soft plug should have not been installed until AFTER int. shaft placement. Additionally, have you never heard of a thing called assembly lube instead of fingering on some oil what you HOPE will still be there when you start turning that engine over the first time.
Bro, in the ninnies I had a D Jetta and it has been the best car I ever drove, lots of fun, now I have a 350z and still missing the Skokie jetta❤
Nothing wrong with brushing on paint.
Looking good!
I wish you'd had painted it the original green color. that green shade has it's charm
Good job! I have the same engine in my Mk2
Hello, when installing the crankshaft and connecting rods, do you use new bolts or old ones??
Hello, i use the old ones, but all of them go back in the same order. I used new bolt only for the cylinderhead
@@upcyclethepastutp9901 I understand, but regarding the head this is understandable, but they say that when removing the crankshaft, they also need to be replaced with new ones
Very good restoration video. It would get more interesting if you put a turbocharger on that diesel engine I'm doing that on my vw mk1 caddy. I hope to see more videos of this restoration, greetings from El Salvador.
I had a turbo diesel 1.6 mk2 golf and they are bad ... They love to boil the water, wrap the cylinder head, fry the gasket... My goal is to have the cleanest 1.6 NA diesel in Romania ! Slow but no boiling water up the hill XD. It would make more sense to swap the engine for a 1.9 turbo diesel if you eant some turbo action !
What about the second torquing of the crankshaft 90°
It was done with the long extension :)
your hammer is quite dirty. keep up the good work with the videos!
3. Bölümü merak ile bekliyorum. Benim mk2 ile aynı motor.
Painting 1.6 tdi engines anything but classic green should be a criminal offense. Great video though! Subscribed
great job bro
Awesome! What made you decide to brush on the paint? Was it too thick/not thinable for an airbrush?
It's the same paint i used on the other parts where i used compressed air, but the block is super heavy to move it around while painting so i chose to aply it with a paint brush with two thic layers if paint
@@upcyclethepastutp9901 that makes a lot of sense! Really inspiring build my dude! You've made me look around for Mark 1's and 2's in my local area
i have been waiting so long to see the engine rebuild. How is the body work going?
Hopefully at the end of the summer it will be back in my workshop to prep it for painting
@@upcyclethepastutp9901 I'm excited to see the spray prep and then to see the respray. I am enjoying the content.
Hola en donde compraste los pistones ? Gracias
What shop did you send the block to?
Great video!
Question: Were you re-using the original crankshaft bearings? I noticed you did not go through the process of using plasti-guage when installing the bearings and was wondering why.
Is there a specific reason why you Torque it to 56n.m first why does it have to be 56n.m first
How to contact you?
Why on God's green earth would you grease a soft plug????? Exactly opposite of ANY common sense.
Leave the back frost plug OUT until after you install the int. shaft. Why? Because you can use your finger to aid in placement of the shaft (when it slides in) and therefore avoid scarring that back int. shaft bearing face. The problem with painting one of these blocks black is that it makes detecting origin of leaks difficult. If you were concerned with particles of sand/metal on the journals, why the hell did you not use the carb cleaner to spray out the journal passageways?
If you go to the extent of spending on new pistons, you sure as hell do NOT want to re-install new piston pins in old piston pin bushings. New pins needed to be installed and very accurately honed to fit the new pins. This is NOT a matter of cornholing a low-horsepower engine with all these shortcuts, it is a matter of right and wrong and longevity following the build. Additionally, the conn rods should have been reconditioned and new bearings installed.
And, the top compression ring should be very carefully placed 180 degrees OPPOSITE of the exhaust valve and the 2nd compression ring installed 180 degrees off THAT gap. More cornhole shortcuts.
You rammed that int. shaft into the hole with no regard to whether or not you were scarring that back bearing. This is why the back soft plug should have not been installed until AFTER int. shaft placement. Additionally, have you never heard of a thing called assembly lube instead of fingering on some oil what you HOPE will still be there when you start turning that engine over the first time.
Shut tf up. Preaching to the choir.