DuraCoat® Aerosol! It's finally here!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2024
- Attention DuraCoat® Fans! Finally! It's Here!
DuraCoat® in an AEROSOL!!
The industry's #1 firearm finish is now available in an aerosol can!
DuraCoat® was previously only available in a liquid form due to the Hardener requirement. But now, with new Can-within-a-Can technology, this aerosol can has the Hardener stored right inside. All you do is release the hardener with the push of a button and shake! It has never been this easy to protect your firearms, bows, hunting accessories, and anything else you can dream of!
And of course as always, DuraCoat® provides the ultimate in protection against rust and corrosion and is resistant to all solvents and cleaners. DuraCoat® can be applied to any type of metal, plastic, and even wood.
DuraCoat® Firearm Finishes are manufactured by Lauer Custom Weaponry. Featured in this video is Steven M. Lauer, inventor and owner of DuraCoat®/Lauer Custom Weaponry.
Order online at www.lauerweaponry.com or by phone at 1-800-830-6677.
Follow DuraCoat® Firearm Finishes on Facebook! Get the latest product updates and share your favorite DuraCoat® projects with fellow DuraCoat® fans!
Always wear protective gloves, eyewear, and a respirator, be in a well-ventilated area, read all warnings and first aid information, and read and follow all instructions when using any DuraCoat products. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I met this guy several years ago when he was shooting with his friends. Great group of guys. Didn't realize who he was at the time. Generous, friendly bunch. Gonna get some tactical green for a Ar15 build I'm doing.
I just found out about this product and will be using it on my Savage 110 30-06 rifle coming up.. Thanks for the great video..
Applied duracoat a couple weeks ago to a LC9S that was showing a lot of wear. Couldn't be happier with the results. I went ahead and did the slide and frame.. It looks awesome.
Word of advice though, be patient after you're finished. It takes a few weeks for the paint to cure. I got impatient and putting the gun back together and marked up the finish a little putting the sights back on. Wasn't a huge deal, but I ended up lightly sanding and reshooting it with duracoat. I've left it alone this time.. Looks great
If you have a old gun that has seen better days, give it a try. It will make it look great. Just be patient. It was a fun project to do and I love the results. I used the kit where you mix the paint and harder yourself and comes with a spray can, reducer, and scotch pad.. That's everything you need and can use the left over paint for another project.
Great demo, and thank you for the information on pot life and prices!
I've duracoated several of my firearms. I have found the more time you take with prep the better results you end up with.
Do you think it's nessesary to get the cleaner he used in the beginning? If not is there something I might have at home I could use?
+BAbassfishin I've heard of people using brake or transmission cleaner. ISO alcohol is a great way of cleaning oil from firearms. Beware of any sort of cleaner that leaves a residue; that can ruin the adherence of the paint.
+BAbassfishin We recommend using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. It was formulated to cut through the grease and oils found on firearms and it also dries quickly and doesn't leave a residue.
+zaqzilla1 You are exactly correct in that it is very important that the cleaner does not leave a residue. We typically don't recommend using isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner though since it is typically not strong enough to cut through the grease and oils found on firearms. We recommend using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser because it was formulated to cut through the grease and oils on firearms.
DuraCoat Firearm Finishes my gun is flat black cerakoted, but it has scratches, would I need to remove the cerakote?
this dude is real cool i talked to him over the phone,,,,he took my order a couple times.....
Just picked up a can can't wait to try it out.
Outstanding! Semper Fi
Cool! No more mixing! I am going to do my Springfield 1911 RO frame in OD!
Nice product, I hope you have lots of success with it.
Awesome can't wait to get mine
In a few days
Can't wait to see more colors added! Every firearm, knife, multi-tool I own wears Duracoat with pride. I think my grill is next. Keep up the good work and keep bringing us these awesome products!
Yes, we plan to continually add to the colors that the DuraCoat Aerosol is available in. Magpul OD Green and the Tactical line will all most likely be a part of the colors that are added to the DuraCoat Aerosol line over time.
Looks attractive. I want to use it on a build when I am done with the one I am currently on
Great video!
Very informative!
A hair dryer was used in this video as a simple, do-it-yourself way to flash off the solvents in between layers of DuraCoat. This could always be done with all of our DuraCoat products using a hair dryer, heat gun, shop air, fan, etc.
Dude, I've been in the industrial coating industry in the past for 15 yrs and safety equipment is important. Proper ventilation and personal protective gear I see you've a spray booth but not operating and no mask and the cleaning process without rubber gloves and ventilation. You wanna live long enough to make all this invention worth while you should use it.
Do you happen to know whether or not you could use this for hydro dipping a firearm?
Yes, DuraCoat can be used as the base coat. We have a special clear called DuraClear Sealant that is specifically designed for hydrographics.
thanks for the video. just bought my duracoat today. gonna fix up my 1911 as soon as i can.
Thank you for purchasing DuraCoat! We appreciate your business. If you have any questions or need any assistance, please feel free to contact us by phone or e-mail!
man your going to do great this paint
I used DuraPark on my Uzi. I had a little problem with the coat at first, but the company made it right. This is a great company that I highly recommend. The finish is quite nice.
Thank you for Duracoat i love it
I duracoated my AK last year. I was surprised how well it holds up....Just bought a can of the new aerosol in parker for my sks...I hope it does as well as the other stuff.
Michael Ryan
How did it work?
I'm thinking of doing a sks ! How did yours go?
Hell yeah gotta get some of this.
+kinkydoints When properly applied, DuraCoat should not cause any tolerances issues with the areas of the Glock you mentioned or anywhere on the Glock. If your Glock slide has been treated with Tenifer, we recommend either scuff sanding the slide with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide to ensure proper adhesion of the DuraCoat. We also recommend this same surface preparation procedure for the frame since most plastics are petroleum-based and this procedure will again help ensure proper adhesion. If blasting, be sure to begin with the pressure very low and test on an inconspicuous spot on the frame to ensure no damage to the frame occurs.
+LONEONE STAR We are the manufacturers of DuraCoat. We are not the manufacturers of the aerosol can. The aerosol can is manufactured by a different company and is used in many different industries.
+LONEONE STAR You're welcome! Thank you!
+DuraCoat Firearm Finishes So is it okay to use extra coats of different Duracoat for a camo pattern? Would you wait the full 3 weeks for curing before applying additional coatings?
How many colors (cans) are too many? I want an ACU camo pattern and I believe that requires 4 colors.
Export it man!!!!!!!
+John Kennedy Yes, you can use multiple DuraCoat colors to create a camo pattern. The base coat should be applied using 3-4 thin, wet layers. This is the same as if you were only doing a single color on the firearm. This will provide the protection layer. All other colors added after are only for decoration, so only apply enough DuraCoat to provide the proper color and hide the color underneath. When completing a camo pattern, we recommend waiting a minimum of 2-3 hours after applying a color before applying templates and spraying another color. DuraCoat has a seven day working period however, so just be sure to complete the entire project within seven days after spraying the base coat.
All of the camo pattern kits we offer (they're not available in an aerosol can kit however) can be found on our website here: www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=829. A four-color camo pattern will not be too many colors. As long as the application instructions are followed correctly and layers are applied in a thin manner, there shouldn't be tolerance issues from too much DuraCoat being applied.
ramairgto72 If you are referring to the M-715 military vehicle, yes, DuraCoat will work great on it! We have had many, many customers use DuraCoat with excellent success on their vehicles. Just be sure to request our UV Hardener with your DuraCoat so that you do not experience any color fading.
DuraCoat Firearm Finishes, Will it work on a boat outdrive that has been filled with Devcon in many places?
Duracoat
Brilliant !
thanks for the quick reply.
after seeing how easy it is. I found a few more items to DC, lol.
thanks I'll be ordering a wolf gray.
+RhinoCable You're welcome! Thank you for using DuraCoat!
I'd like to see Burnt bronze be added to your color lineup.
We are hoping to expand the DuraCoat Aerosol color lineup to include many of our other color lines including the Metal Collection (which includes numerous bronze colors), the Tactical line, and others. We are currently in the research and development stage but are hoping to expand the DuraCoat Aerosol lineup sometime in the near future.
if I wanted to keep my sights on the slide, what ways would you recommend to cover them before applying DC?
The only option in that situation would be to mask off the sights prior to coating using masking tape.
Just love the Safety Sally comments.
If its as good as your other products then I will be buying a few cans. I have refinished two rifles and could not be happier.
when using this product, would I also duracoat any internal parts or is this designed forbonly slides, frames, etc?
+Mike Teves DuraCoat can be used on both the external and internal parts of a firearm. We recommend our DuraCoat SL (Self-Lubricating) for moving parts. The areas that you decide to coat is up to you. Two areas that you should never coat are inside of the barrel and the bolt face (the surface of the bolt that meets the back of the cartridge). Any areas that you don't want to coat should be masked/plugged before coating.
How about 1/2 size cans
Good stuff.
Wicked noice!!!🤘🤘🤘
Hey its Herbert
Duracote Issss The Besssst..
fredrickson1 nah cerakote is
Amazingggggg!!
i am glad you got it dun
i knew selling my soul was going to lead to something good this year.
I'm thinking of using this to paint the stainless steel slide on my S&W SD9VE to black.
Thank you for considering DuraCoat for your firearm! DuraCoat will work great on your slide!
Did you do it?
706d I'm about to do the same. I'll let you know of the results :)
I'm on the fence between this and WHeeler Cerama-Coat
oh, for my sd9ve and sd40ve. and maybe my CZ70
Might have to try it on some fasteners
I have duracoated on my 1911 grips and slide looks nice doesn’t scratch easy it’s pretty tough not like just a paint
so using this aerosol there is no need for a oven bake? just hair dryer or heat gun?
DuraCoat is an air-cured product, no matter which method you're using to apply it (aerosol or spray equipment), and so no baking is needed. The hair dryer was used as a simple way to blow air on the surface in between each layer of DuraCoat in order to flash off the solvents. The flashing off of the solvents can also be achieved by waiting ten minutes between each layer. If using air, the air does not need to be hot, it just needs to be blowing air. A heat gun can be used but only on its lowest setting. Also, make sure that the material you are using it on can withstand that heat without damaging it. But like we said, heat is not necessary.
Is DuraCoat heat-resistantance when cured sufficient for a motorcycle exhaust?
Was going to Re Blu a yugo sks
Now I'm re thinking
Looking forward to using this. Looks awesome!
That would be great for camping tools , knives, shovels , hatchets
Or anything you might need something tougher than just paint alone
Do I need to bake in oven after applying Dura Coat?
+p pollaccia No, DuraCoat is an air-cured product. DuraCoat can be baked to speed up the initial dry time, so that you can handle and reassemble sooner, but it isn't required and doesn't make it any more durable.
how many cans would it take to do a shotgun with and extended mag tube?
+Frank Garrett One DuraCoat Aerosol can should be more than enough to complete that size project and you will most likely have some DuraCoat leftover.
Are you still living in Stilwell Oklahoma?
That mullet though!
I will be looking for that smaller less expensive can, LOL.
You folks are awsome and give the best customer support. Cerakote could take some lessons from you.
Thanks keep up the good work!
Thank you for your kind words and for using our products! We appreciate it!
no complaints or trash talking? well, I suppose it's time to order! yaaaay!
Can I do my M-715 in this?
I'm half kidding.
But....why not?
Nice product
Mite look nice on a set of car wheels to
Well I know what I'm using on my next build
And I agree, 60 bucks a can is rough with shipping.
No need to answer my question, I found your answer in another response. I see you've been nice enough already to repeat the same answer over, and over, and over again! Lol! I won't make you!
A few questions, First does sand blasting the part to be Duracoated give it better adhesion? Second it looked as if all that was needed was a hairdryer between coatings, but after the 4th coat, how long does it take to cure and does it need to be baked?
Media blasting the parts with either sand or 60 to 120 grit aluminum oxide before DuraCoating is always recommended when someone has the access and ability to do so. A blasted surface will provide the optimum substrate for DuraCoat to adhere to.
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in twenty minutes, you can handle it in an hour, and you can reassemble and use the item the next day. Only submit the item to light use at this time though. A full cure is reached in 3-4 weeks. DuraCoat does not need to be baked. You can bake DuraCoat to speed up the initial dry time but it will not speed up the final cure time and will not make the DuraCoat any more durable. The hairdryer in the video was used as a simple method of speeding up the flashing off of the solvents in between coats. The use of the hairdryer speeds up the process but has the same effect as leaving the part sit for 5-10 minutes in between coats.
does the layers of paint interfere with the tolerances and actions/fitment of the gun?
DuraCoat should be applied between 0.5 and 1.5 mils so it will not affect the tolerances of the parts.
Cool, however you should be wearing some nitrile gloves dude! And most likely a respirator, this stuff is nasty for your health.
Always wear protective gloves, eyewear, and an approved respirator when working with any of our products. You should also always work in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to read all warnings, first aid information, and product instructions before using any of our products. This is indicated in both annotation and card form in the video.
Only problem I find with your technique is that as a professional you should have used gloves to handle the item. Oils from your hands contaminate it as you handle it. You pulled a Homer there - LoL
You are correct in that a person should always wear gloves when working with DuraCoat and handling the parts to be coated.
Don't use gloves and you would have a great chance to have eczema is a short-term future and psoriasis in a long-term future. Also, use a good mask, equipped with an activated coal filter.
And not 'heat gun blowing over a pressurized can'?
Can I use this product on motorcycle parts like disk brake calipers and hot engine parts.
What I mean is if the duracoat paint hold up with heat and other things
I’m 80 percent ready to repaint my 1911 myself now. Thank you. Just need to know what to mask off, and I’ll be 100% ready
Great! What exactly are you planning on coating?
40 bucks for a can when I can just pay a pro 60 to do it...
Willis Fleming the point is doing it yourself. also, please let me know who the pro is that will mix the color, sand, and refinish to a professional final product for 60 dollars...I highly doubt it. no way he's making profit and justifying labor.
And my point is that it's more cost effective to pay a professional to do it so you don't fuck it up because you're dumb😂😂😂 And the guy I use charges 60 bucks to duracoat and 80 for hydrodip... Haha you must be up north somewhere getting ripped off....
I bet hes using dupli color for them cheap ass prices or shitty prep work and 80 for hydro dip tf he's got his prices backwards lmao coating a gun takes more time and heating cost dipping is easy af i worked for a cellphone repair shop that did dipping on guns ps4s xboxs etc
Nah it's duracoat, same prices for powder coat too.
I blast everything 100-120 grit to bare aluminum and plastics i just scotch brite good results so far
This looks great. I think I could actually do this myself. Do you think DC would stick to a gun that has been previously NP3ed? I just want to change the color to more standard firearm colors than shiny gray nickel color that NP3 ends up.
I'll look for it thanks
are you now selling awesome in a can! cant wait to GET SOME. GET SOME (yes full metal jacket voice)
Because i think your product is good, I ordered a shake-n-spray kit a few days ago to see if i have better luck with this system than the actual aerosol can . Hopefully i will have better results .
Hiram Redlegs Great! Thank you! If you have any questions, issues, or comments before, during, or after using the kit just let us know!
After using two cans of this (Matte Black and Blackhawk Coyote Tan) I have to say, both colors came out full on glossy. Using a hair dryer did not help either. Shame, because I really wanted this to work well. I ended up mixing up other colors with the flattening agent to make my rifle look the way I wanted it to look.
geists2k We are sorry to hear that you were dissatisfied with your results with our DuraCoat Aerosol. Due to the UV Hardener in the DuraCoat Aerosol, the sheen on all colors will be glossy at first. The sheen should slowly settle down to its proper level (that would be a matte sheen for both of our Matte Black and BlackHawk Coyote Tan colors) after about 3 to 4 weeks. If the colors were still glossy after 3 to 4 weeks, then something during the application process may have caused the increase in sheen. It sounds as though you were able to resolve the issue on your own, but we still encourage you to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info[at]lauerweaponry[.]com. We would be happy to discuss the issue with you and we would also work to rectify the situation in whatever way possible. Our customer service hours are: Monday - Friday 7am - 5pm CST.
yea i just e-mailed a bud the same thing, some of our hands aint quite as steady anymore too....LOL
That hair dryer is insane. . .
Yes I had the same problem the can wanted to clog up or spit it out I had to hurry and try to get it off with thinner I tried twice with the same results then ran out maybe just a bad can not sure I'm an automotive refinisher and next time might find a product I can spray using a small cutin spray gun
telh74 We are sorry to hear that you experienced that issue. That is not a typical result of our DuraCoat Aerosol and we will gladly work with you to rectify this situation. Please give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info[at]lauerweaponry[.]com. We will help determine why this issue may have occurred and we will also work to rectify this situation in whatever way works best for you.We offer our DuraCoat product in many different application methods in order to accommodate all individuals. DuraCoat in its original form is sold in a liquid in numerous different size bottles. It can be mixed and sprayed through many different kinds of spray equipment. This form of DuraCoat may be more suited to your preferences and we encourage you to give it a try.
Bad ass and hell yes
Great ! You are the man and should be very rich !
Very cool, thanks for the clear video. I was looking at the DC site and if you have a sprayer it looks like the "Aug Green" might be very close to the Magpul OD Green. In any case I will definitely get this in Magpul OD Green if I can.
In looking at the prep directions for polymers, it says they should be sanded. I know it's great on metal, but think it might not hold up as well on something like a magpul or BCM AR grip? Thanks again.
The Aug Green and Magpul OD Green colors are actually quite different because Magpul OD Green has quite a bit of gray in it compared to Aug Green. This causes Aug Green to be a much more "greener" green when the two are compared. Also, both of these colors will be available in the new DuraCoat Aerosol in January 2014.
DuraCoat adheres essentially equally as well to both metal and polymer. As long as proper preparation procedures are followed, DuraCoat should adhere excellently to metal, plastic, wood, etc.
Nice.
like the two part car paint cans.
Got an extremely rough colt saa thinking of doing this seems easy enough
NO NO NO not a on a Colt SAA
You should add Audrey's Blue and Beaming Blue to your line for an AR Build I am planning.
Please come out with more colors. It would be good for quick jobs. I would like to see HK black.
Just got a can in Magpul fde. Just need some solvent and a scotch pad and I am set.
Fantastic! Thank you for purchasing DuraCoat! Next time, consider checking out our DuraCoat Aerosol Kit! For only $5 more, you can get a can of our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser and a scrubbing pad with your DuraCoat Aerosol.
Get it clean!
When spraying my AR15 lower do I need to tape off anything like the threads for the buffer tube or any of the pin holes?
You may certainly tape off anything you wish not to coat, but there is no need to tape off threads or pin holes. DuraCoat is a rather thin coating, so tolerances are not an issue. You should be able to DuraCoat your entire AR15 lower without any worries.
Can I duracoat raw 1018 steel after I sandblast the top layer of material off of it? Is this a bad idea should I just pay someone to blue it professionally?
Would you have to use an adhesion promoter for polymer, or other plastic pieces?
Our DuraCoat Adhesion Promoter is an excellent product! It is not required, but it allows you to skip the sanding or blasting when coating plastics and synthetics. Simply degrease, apply the Adhesion Promoter, and spray with DuraCoat!
I bought the Aerosol can in magpul flat dark earth color. It works as intended and couldn't be easier. It just takes some time to prepare it before applying the paint. Only question I have is how long should I wait before pulling out any masking tape that I applied to my lower and upper receiver to cover certain areas not to be painted?
In this scenario, you should wait at least until the next day before removing the masking tape.
I apologize if I missed this but can I expect to get an AR15 lower receiver, upper receiver and 15" handguard completed with a single can? Thanks.
Yes you can! One can contains enough DuraCoat that you should be able to complete two sets of the parts that you mentioned.
So, my question to everyone that has used this product is, how is the durability and finish of this product holding up over a period of time. Is it better then regular spray paint in a can? does it scratch and chip easy?? Thanks for any info.
I was about to post the same comment.
I know this may be a longshot, but will DC work on Hogue rubber products? Or will the very slight flex of the rubber cause cracking, flaking?
We do not recommend DuraCoating Hogue rubber products. What can tend to happen is the rubber will harden and crack, therefore causing damage to both the product and the DuraCoat.
I'm restoring an old double barrel and want to know if its necessary or will it give me better results to remove the bluing from the barrels before hitting it with the matte black.
+Jack Stone If the bluing is in good condition with no rust, then there is no need to completely remove it before applying DuraCoat. Simply follow the standard surface preparation procedure of cleaning, roughing up the surface, and coating. If the bluing is in poor condition and rust is present then all rust must be removed before coating, which may require all of the bluing to be removed as well depending upon the condition.
Would it work for Barrels? I would like to refinish a fluted AR barrel that has some scratches...
Yes, definitely. DuraCoat can be applied to all types of barrels.
what did you use to hold the slide while you were spraying it? looks to be a metal bar? also how would you suggest storing the slide for the day you wait to re assemble the firearm?
The slide was held using a wooden dowel. The end of the dowel was wrapped with blue painter's tape in order to create a perfect fit. Once DuraCoated, the slide with the dowel in it should be propped up in a safe place so that no surface or object comes in contact with the freshly DuraCoated slide. It should also be placed in a room that has very little dust, debris, etc. floating around in the air.
I have a lower that needs some clean up as far as machining marks. If I sand those marks out, which would take the parkerized finish off in those areas, would it be a problem if I then coated it in Goddess Purple?
Basically, if parts of my lower are bare aluminium & parts are parkerized, would it all match after coating it in Goddess Purple?
+shananagans5 Yes, all of the parts will look the same after coating with DuraCoat. Just make sure to thoroughly clean all of the parts using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser prior to sanding out the machining marks. Then, once your finished sanding, simply blow off the sanding dust with clean shop air and spray with DuraCoat.
I'm wanting to use this on my carry gun, but I have a question- did you do anything to protect the contact surface where the slide mates with the frame? I plan to re-finish both slide and frame and am worried that the added thickness (it is only about 1/1000th of an inch, but that's still something) causing problems with cycling.
+Donovan Corcoran In this video, nothing was done differently to the surface of the slide where it meets the frame than was done to the rest of the surface of the slide. DuraCoat is a rather thin coating, so for the vast majority of handguns there are no tolerance issues. Therefore, the vast majority of slides and frames can be coated without needing to be concerned about where the slide and frame meet. However, if you are concerned about tolerance issues, you can always apply slightly less DuraCoat (down to approximately .5 mils) to the tight tolerance areas or you can mask them off entirely.
Product looks good but how will it perform on the slide where it mates to the lower (the grooves where it slides back and forth)?
Presumably, there will be some wear over time, if that was to happen will the worn edges start to lift of flake off?
When DuraCoating the areas you're referring to, you will first want to take your specific firearm's tolerances into consideration. DuraCoat was created specifically for firearms, so it is a thin coating that should not affect the tolerances of most firearms. However, if your firearm has very tight tolerances in this area, then you will want to mask off those areas and therefore not coat them. In the vast majority of cases where you can coat these surfaces, there will be wear over time. Areas of moving, metal-on-metal contact are going to incur wear over time. When the surfaces are properly prepared and the coating applied correctly, there should not be any flaking or chipping just simply wear over time.
maybe I missed it in the video but how long do you have to wait until you use the firearm after Duracoating? Does it have a curing time?
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in twenty minutes, you can handle the parts in about an hour, and you can reassemble and use the firearm after about 24 hours. This is the initial cure time. The DuraCoat will continue to cure over the next 3-4 weeks. You can use the firearm during that time, we just don't recommend submitting it to hard use. Once it fully cures, the DuraCoat will have outstanding durability, excellent corrosion resistance, and be resistant to solvents, oils, and cleaners.
Is there any added benefit if the gun parts are warmed in say a Toaster Oven or regular Oven to maybe 100-120° to prior to applying Duracoat to open the pores of the metal??
Or warming after applying Duracoat to help harden?.... like what is done with Automotive painting
We do not recommend heating parts before coating. We have not seen any added benefit from doing so. In fact, this typically leads to negative results as the heat draws out the oils from deep within the metal surface and can cause adhesion issues. You can bake metal parts (in a coating-dedicated industrial oven) after coating with DuraCoat to speed up the initial dry time. This will allow you to handle and reassemble the parts sooner. However, this does not speed up the full cure time and does not make the coating any more durable.
if the carbon steel I'm trying to duracoat is polished should I sand it lightly before applying?
Yes, you will need to rough up the surface and give it texture/profile for the DuraCoat to adhere to. First, clean the surface with our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Then, rough up the surface by either scuff sanding with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M ScotchBrite pad or by blasting using either 120 grit aluminum oxide or sand. Then, blow off the sanding/blasting dust using clean shop air and spray with DuraCoat.
a quick question about the slide you coated in the video, did you mask off the firing pin hole, or is there enough tolerance room that this is not necessary
The firing pin hole was not masked off when we coated the slide. DuraCoat is a rather thin coating, so masking off the firing pin hole is not necessary when the DuraCoat is properly applied.