I started getting misty eyed remembering my dad teaching me how to part and comb my hair as Caleb does. Anybody out there remember Vitalis or Brylcream and carrying a pocket comb? Caleb is a great giving how to demonstrations. Painting is 75% prep work 25% painting. Dad taught me that too.
Based on looks alone, I would say that Cosmoline is Caleb's hair product of choice. _But_ he seems like a fine upstanding patriot.. My guess would be Aero-Shell;-]
No one had a jar of the pink Butch creme? The round comb with 1.25" spikes that made your hair lay over when it was time for a new haircut. The 60s were something else, scissors in green barbcide... no nits here sir!
It's nice that it's an informative Brownell's product instruction video, but the guy has some personality and a few pop-culture jokes along the way. Great stuff!
Of COURSE, I finally got tired of waiting for this series and painted my rifle without watching this first. Also, this video is fantastic. I wish I would have waited, but my next go at this will be better. Thanks for finally making it.
You can always just paint right over top of it. This past weekend, I re-did paint jobs on 2 ar’s, I wasn’t all that satisfied with my first try on either of them
@@joegonzalez5602 I did not use a respirator, but Caleb is right; you should. I didn't use clean-out nozzles, but there were/are not any available. That said, he gives you a work-around in a previous video.
Every time I want to order some and I'm ready for this project there are never any extra nozzles in stock. I've been on the waitlist for at least half a year too. If they're basically required, either have them available or include a couple extra with each can please
I did several AR15 with Grey Parkerizing Aluma-Hyde.....came out great. I prepared the metal with a Brownells metal prep degreaser, one night in my Attic work shop,....sprayed the next night and then let cure for two weeks in the Summer Heat of the Attic. Temps were well over 100° for a slow cure.
After using this a few times, it is my go to for a base coat on a rifle. If I am doing a camo job, I do a base coat of Aluma Hyde, let it dry for a few weeks, then use Krylon or Rustoleum for the other colors.
@@johnboluski-zl1qn well I've not seeing any vids on your YT so I'll stick with the trusted company that's been around since 1939 . Thanks for boring me with your uninteresting and unrequited comment. Have a great day trolling 👍
Very interested to watch this series. I've literally signed up for in-stock notifications for this stuff and never bought it because I was unsure what I would be getting into.
I wish I disassembled and baked like the video recommends but I just taped off, cleaned with brake cleaner, and let the sun dry it in 75 degree weather. Still holds on well. Great product and video.
I used aluma Hyde II on a H&R pardner pump protector OD green to protect it from rust as the light parkarized finish wasn't doing the job down here in Georgia with the humidity, great stuff well worth the prep work and it looks great
Wish I had this video two weeks ago. I painted my upper and lower. Not perfect but definitely not bad. Probably should have stuffed the takedown and safety switch holes. Nice and tight. Need to go back and file some of it out.
Been using Aluma-Hyde II for 25 years or more. Works great on steel, aluminum, plastic & wood. Everyone hates on my black, Aluma-Hyde II painted, Danish beech wood M1 Garand stock. 🤠
I used Semigloss Black on my CETME C, and it has never looked better. I finished her off by staining the wood furniture in Bombay Mahogany and she just looks absolutely classy.
I've used Aluma-Hyde II quite a bit on various guns as well other metal and some plastic components. The best stuff I've ever used that wasn't baked on for ease of application and durability.
Thanks so much for the awesome videos!! PLEASE get the Matte Black Aluma Hyde II in stock, the clean out nozzles and the smaller sizes of Manganese Parkerizing solution!!! You guys only have 5 gallons of Manganese Parkerizing solution in stock!!! I’m ready to do allot of Aluma Hyde II but no matte black😭😭
This stuff is legit. I did a glock frame and barrel 2 years ago. I carry it everyday and it has not worn at all. I did bake it in an old electric smoker and flashed each coat with a heat gun. Not sure how necessary it was but it worked wonders.
Pro tip for shaking, duct tape the can to the side of your sawsall blade, make sure you tape it on when the blade stroke is all the way in or at its shortest!! Then pull the trigger and the quick back and forth will shake up that can really really good !! if you don’t have a sawsall then tape the can to the rim of any wheeled vehicle and drive for a minute or two!!
If you can’t get the cleanout nozzles, take an old nozzle off an old spray can get your smallest drillbit and drill it out while still leaving enough meat on the part that inserts into the can ( not sure what it called) then drill out where it sprays from, you need to make sure both drill holes meet, the goal is to make a big enough passageway for those little clumps to get through! Once you done this, put it on your can, shake it up good and spray until the clumps aren’t coming out anymore, if no clumps come out then try drill the holes a little bigger. Once you’ve got those clumps out then you’re good to put your original nozzle back on and start painting!! If you don’t have a drill bit small enough you can use a piece of small metal wire, get it red hot and use it to expand the passage way.
Xylene leaves less film than acetone. Would Xylene work too or does the Alumahyde require acetone specifically? Acetone is good stuff but it melts nitrile gloves, which leads to PPE permeation that can damage your kidneys.
If Brownells could actually keep things in stock, it would make it so much better. For example, clean out nozzles have been out of stock for a while. Please don't push products that you can't even sell.
There is a product called 9H by hammaroo. It is a ceramic coating you apply to a finished product. Whether polymer, platic wood, steel, nealy every hard surface. 9H is a hardnesss scale 1 to 10. With diamond being 10 the hardest. It is a thin clear coating applied by cloth to your finished paint job. Originally made for hard steels and stainless parts and tools. And another + for it is it isn't super expensive.
Love that honkin' apron, Caleb. Settle an argument for me please. I say the apron is Naugahyde (based on an old couch someone gave us when we first got married) but my buddy says it's "Pleather" (he used to date a girl whose entire wardrobe was some kind of synthetic leather-like material). It's definitely not 100% Virgin Vinyl, the sheen is all wrong. So, which is it??? Thanks for another good video.
This summer I tried using alumahyde II for the first time. I shook the the can between 20 and 30 minutes so I think it was mixed up enough. I kept shaking it along the way but eventually it was throwing clumps. I didn't see it at the time but it was building up on the outside of the nozzle. I wonder if it would help to keep a rag handy with thinner to keep the outside of the nozzle clean to prevent buildup?
Alcohol and elbow grease removes aluma-hyde II So if you have safe queens you won’t or can’t afford to shoot but wanna look like you actually use your guns alcohol on a fabric glove will give you that look. Or just just your guns and when you rebarrel it’ll look lightly used. I used this to get the lettering in the lower to be a different color. I half cure the first layer and then when I half cure second layer the first is done completely so it resist the alcohol better. Lastly for Marines like me who painted their guns with rustolum only and realized the gun looks one color under NVGs, aluma hyde makes a great base to contrast against other paint. I use FDE aluma hyde, forest green krylon, olive green rustolum, and cheap ACE hardware brown. My camo patern layers naturally and makes a good base. Throw some camo face paint on cut up burlap and you have good base for a gillied gun.
Y lower receiver ended up as he described “snake pattern “ or rough. How can I smooth it out, with removing/stripping completely and throw another coat of alumahyde over it? Is it even possible?
Is alumahyde really stronger than duracoat? I pulled out a receiver set i sand blasted from a few years ago and ive been thinking duracoat because of other recommendations from forums and a few friends.
Shake it Shake it again Shake it some more Shake it again Shake it Them shake it ten more times Mine came out with a very wrinkled finish, but another 5 minutes of shaking, after ten minutes of shaking, then it mixed well. 👌🏽
The runs. Good one. Keep up the jokes. I would wait for gramps to come home from work in the shipyards. Every day he would take off his work boots and say in German, my feet stink. I still laugh about that.
I think any rattle can paint can benefit from warming first, especially if it's stored in a cool place. Place it in your sink with hot tap water for a few minutes. Don't place it in water on the stove for obvious reasons.
I'm sure there is a manufacturer warning guy that will screech "noooooo" but IF you have an ultrasonic, it is great at dispersing solids in rattle can paints that have a lot of solids. Shake it like mad, a minute or so bobbing in the US, Shake it again. Welcome to a world of reduced clogs!
Check out the rest of the series here- th-cam.com/play/PLRNgjwKiAAECuJ9cYcTeaXLg-lvCTgIXq.html&si=BjPo60ykIeu-fLb-
I started getting misty eyed remembering my dad teaching me how to part and comb my hair as Caleb does. Anybody out there remember Vitalis or Brylcream and carrying a pocket comb? Caleb is a great giving how to demonstrations. Painting is 75% prep work 25% painting. Dad taught me that too.
Ha, for a second I could smell the Vitalis!😂
Many moons ago , when I had hair , every trip to the barbershop I'd get a bottle of vitalis. When they were out , I'd have to get it at eckard drugs.
Looks to me he uses sole glow!
Based on looks alone, I would say that Cosmoline is Caleb's hair product of choice. _But_ he seems like a fine upstanding patriot.. My guess would be Aero-Shell;-]
No one had a jar of the pink Butch creme? The round comb with 1.25" spikes that made your hair lay over when it was time for a new haircut. The 60s were something else, scissors in green barbcide... no nits here sir!
Really cool to see a video on painting your guns like a gunsmith. Keep it up guys
I painted an upper in alumahyde II magpul FDE to go on my FDE kp15 lower and I love it. Extremely durable finish. Great video as always
It's nice that it's an informative Brownell's product instruction video, but the guy has some personality and a few pop-culture jokes along the way. Great stuff!
Bro, content's golden. When I actually sat thru the video, the dry wit caught me off guard. Brownells owes you a character bonus, sir.
Prep work is important, thanks for focusing on it.
Of COURSE, I finally got tired of waiting for this series and painted my rifle without watching this first. Also, this video is fantastic. I wish I would have waited, but my next go at this will be better. Thanks for finally making it.
You can always just paint right over top of it. This past weekend, I re-did paint jobs on 2 ar’s, I wasn’t all that satisfied with my first try on either of them
@damonbfriendly Question did you use respirator? Also did you need cleanout nozzels?
@@joegonzalez5602 I did not use a respirator, but Caleb is right; you should. I didn't use clean-out nozzles, but there were/are not any available. That said, he gives you a work-around in a previous video.
@@joegonzalez5602 USE A RESPIRATOR!
Every time I want to order some and I'm ready for this project there are never any extra nozzles in stock. I've been on the waitlist for at least half a year too. If they're basically required, either have them available or include a couple extra with each can please
100%
Amen
showed up to learn how to paint my gun... learned i like leather and good haircuts. Love ya Caleb!
Can't wait for the next vid to drop! My EDC has gotten pretty worn out & I've been wanting to repaint the slide. Perfect timing!
I did several AR15 with Grey Parkerizing Aluma-Hyde.....came out great.
I prepared the metal with a Brownells metal prep degreaser, one night in my Attic work shop,....sprayed the next night and then let cure for two weeks in the Summer Heat of the Attic.
Temps were well over 100° for a slow cure.
Nobody wants the runs…😂😂😂. Awesome video Caleb! Need to get started on another Aluma Hyde project.
Good to see it, I've been anticipating this series
Wonderful amount of humor to go along with a serious educational topic.
After using this a few times, it is my go to for a base coat on a rifle. If I am doing a camo job, I do a base coat of Aluma Hyde, let it dry for a few weeks, then use Krylon or Rustoleum for the other colors.
This is the most helpful painting video ive seen. Thank you.
Painfully, long drawn out presentation. My spray can passed it's sell by date before the video ended!
@@johnboluski-zl1qn well I've not seeing any vids on your YT so I'll stick with the trusted company that's been around since 1939 . Thanks for boring me with your uninteresting and unrequited comment. Have a great day trolling 👍
Absolutely excellent host, hope brownells realizes how valuable you are.
Very interested to watch this series. I've literally signed up for in-stock notifications for this stuff and never bought it because I was unsure what I would be getting into.
I wish I disassembled and baked like the video recommends but I just taped off, cleaned with brake cleaner, and let the sun dry it in 75 degree weather. Still holds on well. Great product and video.
I used aluma Hyde II on a H&R pardner pump protector OD green to protect it from rust as the light parkarized finish wasn't doing the job down here in Georgia with the humidity, great stuff well worth the prep work and it looks great
This is the way...
Looking forward to this series. I want to add some color & camo to my new builds. And I want to try the Aluma-hyde 2.
Okay, let’s have the rest of the series please. 😎
Great video … definitely a caleb fan
Wish I had this video two weeks ago. I painted my upper and lower. Not perfect but definitely not bad. Probably should have stuffed the takedown and safety switch holes. Nice and tight. Need to go back and file some of it out.
So how many cans did you go through until you got one that sprayed properly, even with the "extra" tips?
This stuff just works when done right😁 used it on several firearms
Been using Aluma-Hyde II for 25 years or more. Works great on steel, aluminum, plastic & wood. Everyone hates on my black, Aluma-Hyde II painted, Danish beech wood M1 Garand stock. 🤠
Came for the paint, stayed for the apron
Hurry up and release the rest of the videos!
How is this video not more popular?!?!?
Love the stock evil black color.
You’re a great salesman for Rust-Oleum Camouflage 👍
That apron is awesome.
I used Semigloss Black on my CETME C, and it has never looked better. I finished her off by staining the wood furniture in Bombay Mahogany and she just looks absolutely classy.
I've used Aluma-Hyde II quite a bit on various guns as well other metal and some plastic components. The best stuff I've ever used that wasn't baked on for ease of application and durability.
Super cool! Thanks for the info!
I’m more partial to duracoat even when it starts to get wear and tear on it gives it an amazing battle worn look
Will you do a black Friday sale on the paint?
Great video thank you Brownells!!
Dont forget a cup of coffee on that PPE list!
Caleb is the best Gun Dad 😂
I’d be interested to see how this holds up vs air dried cerakote
Thanks so much for the awesome videos!!
PLEASE get the Matte Black Aluma Hyde II in stock, the clean out nozzles and the smaller sizes of Manganese Parkerizing solution!!!
You guys only have 5 gallons of Manganese Parkerizing solution in stock!!!
I’m ready to do allot of Aluma Hyde II but no matte black😭😭
That leather apron on fleek where can i buy?
This stuff is legit. I did a glock frame and barrel 2 years ago. I carry it everyday and it has not worn at all. I did bake it in an old electric smoker and flashed each coat with a heat gun. Not sure how necessary it was but it worked wonders.
Pro tip for shaking, duct tape the can to the side of your sawsall blade, make sure you tape it on when the blade stroke is all the way in or at its shortest!! Then pull the trigger and the quick back and forth will shake up that can really really good !! if you don’t have a sawsall then tape the can to the rim of any wheeled vehicle and drive for a minute or two!!
If you can’t get the cleanout nozzles, take an old nozzle off an old spray can get your smallest drillbit and drill it out while still leaving enough meat on the part that inserts into the can ( not sure what it called) then drill out where it sprays from, you need to make sure both drill holes meet, the goal is to make a big enough passageway for those little clumps to get through! Once you done this, put it on your can, shake it up good and spray until the clumps aren’t coming out anymore, if no clumps come out then try drill the holes a little bigger. Once you’ve got those clumps out then you’re good to put your original nozzle back on and start painting!!
If you don’t have a drill bit small enough you can use a piece of small metal wire, get it red hot and use it to expand the passage way.
Xylene leaves less film than acetone. Would Xylene work too or does the Alumahyde require acetone specifically? Acetone is good stuff but it melts nitrile gloves, which leads to PPE permeation that can damage your kidneys.
Does this have enough wear resistance to use on a raw lower receiver?
If the clean out nossles are necessary, why arent they included?
Caleb Ross 🎉🎉
Caleb, Can you finish your paint job, with a mat clear coat, to help prevent dings, wear & tear? Does Aluma-hyde make that?
Very nice
So this paint will not have an issue with heat from a barrel?
Don't know about everybody else but I'm just here to check out that sweet apron!
What is that color you used on the last rifle you showed that you used for the tactical games?
The leather apron gives that mad scientist look. It must cleanup pretty easy if it has been around for years.
How long to shake?
How close to spray?
Did you answer this?
Yes, this is all answered in the series. Check out the rest of the videos.
If Brownells could actually keep things in stock, it would make it so much better. For example, clean out nozzles have been out of stock for a while. Please don't push products that you can't even sell.
Can you guys update your colors and get a darker green and browns so guys can do some tiger stripe and Rhodesian brush stroke?
There is a product called 9H by hammaroo. It is a ceramic coating you apply to a finished product. Whether polymer, platic wood, steel, nealy every hard surface. 9H is a hardnesss scale 1 to 10. With diamond being 10 the hardest. It is a thin clear coating applied by cloth to your finished paint job. Originally made for hard steels and stainless parts and tools. And another + for it is it isn't super expensive.
The Brownells website says that the solvent/thinner is no longer available. Is there anything that I can substitute instead?
I’d like to hear more about this sweet apron.
Love that honkin' apron, Caleb. Settle an argument for me please. I say the apron is Naugahyde (based on an old couch someone gave us when we first got married) but my buddy says it's "Pleather" (he used to date a girl whose entire wardrobe was some kind of synthetic leather-like material). It's definitely not 100% Virgin Vinyl, the sheen is all wrong. So, which is it??? Thanks for another good video.
Is a snow white in the future?
This summer I tried using alumahyde II for the first time. I shook the the can between 20 and 30 minutes so I think it was mixed up enough. I kept shaking it along the way but eventually it was throwing clumps. I didn't see it at the time but it was building up on the outside of the nozzle. I wonder if it would help to keep a rag handy with thinner to keep the outside of the nozzle clean to prevent buildup?
Looks like the dude from Conjuring. But even more dapper.
One thing that helps a ton is letting the can sit in a container of almost hot water for about 5 minutes or so. Make it flow much better.
The nozzles are crap - spits and splatters no matter how you prep them.
@@ericdavis1660 Maybe just inconsistent? I had zero problems with mine. Looks like the rail was made that color.
You should consider offering combo packs of 6-8 oz cans in three different colors. Just enough paint to do one rifle or several pistols.
Alcohol and elbow grease removes aluma-hyde II
So if you have safe queens you won’t or can’t afford to shoot but wanna look like you actually use your guns alcohol on a fabric glove will give you that look.
Or just just your guns and when you rebarrel it’ll look lightly used. I used this to get the lettering in the lower to be a different color. I half cure the first layer and then when I half cure second layer the first is done completely so it resist the alcohol better.
Lastly for Marines like me who painted their guns with rustolum only and realized the gun looks one color under NVGs, aluma hyde makes a great base to contrast against other paint. I use FDE aluma hyde, forest green krylon, olive green rustolum, and cheap ACE hardware brown. My camo patern layers naturally and makes a good base. Throw some camo face paint on cut up burlap and you have good base for a gillied gun.
You just use clear Aluma-Hyde II for your hair right?
Y lower receiver ended up as he described “snake pattern “ or rough. How can I smooth it out, with removing/stripping completely and throw another coat of alumahyde over it? Is it even possible?
Would this work to paint pins and withstand a Glock tool pushing on it?
i have a raw billst aluminum lower . how should i prep for the raw billet ?
Make sure you grab some clean out and replacement nozzles that are never in stock and won't be any time soon guys.
How well does it hold up to heat?
Is alumahyde really stronger than duracoat?
I pulled out a receiver set i sand blasted from a few years ago and ive been thinking duracoat because of other recommendations from forums and a few friends.
The website has been out of almost every color for months, I haven't gotten an answer from any Rep about if or when they will be back
I would love to use this stuff but it wont ship to Alaska.
Shake it
Shake it again
Shake it some more
Shake it again
Shake it
Them shake it ten more times
Mine came out with a very wrinkled finish, but another 5 minutes of shaking, after ten minutes of shaking, then it mixed well. 👌🏽
Stranglehold 🇺🇸👊
More durable than cerakote?
Ever wonder why Wolf Gray is always out of stock?
"I'm shaking it boss, I'm shaking it" 😂
The problem is the clean out caps are always out of stock.
The runs. Good one. Keep up the jokes. I would wait for gramps to come home from work in the shipyards. Every day he would take off his work boots and say in German, my feet stink. I still laugh about that.
I think any rattle can paint can benefit from warming first, especially if it's stored in a cool place. Place it in your sink with hot tap water for a few minutes. Don't place it in water on the stove for obvious reasons.
Bob Ross of the armory!
Finally the secret to Caleb’s hair is reveled and finding out he’s into s&m is disturbing really disturbing.😂
Still waiting for that infamous Bobba Fet tactical Gray Wolf camo Caleb talks about.
..I've used this stuff on all the weapons I've painted...ARs, Glocks, M1A stock...
Cool
Aluma Hyde is great , done two projects with it and works awesome.
I'm sure there is a manufacturer warning guy that will screech "noooooo"
but IF you have an ultrasonic, it is great at dispersing solids in rattle can paints that have a lot of solids.
Shake it like mad,
a minute or so bobbing in the US,
Shake it again.
Welcome to a world of reduced clogs!
it is not available in Central Europe, even at Brownells
Shake it like an outcast song? Man is well cultured!
How companies spray nozzles are so hard to get
I would let this man work on my guns.
Is using regular spray paint fine and then putting on the Brownells Aluma-Hyde 2 Epoxy Based Firearms Finish Aerosol Can Matte Clear OK to do?😊