Nice video! Just FYI, in case you haven't already; you can buy an OBD-II diagnostic tool from Harbor Freight (or similar) for around $40. It will scan your engine codes and you can also reset them. No more going to a shop for a simple scan! Plus, you can reset the code yourself after the repair and find out if you really fixed it before you even leave the driveway! I use my tool on the 2012 Wrangler, the 2003 Mini Cooper and the 1997 XJ in my driveway and it works on all of them. Highly recommend! Thanks for the great video :)
Great info!! I will check it out for sure, hard to beat $40!! Sounds like a no brainier investment!! Being able to reset the code is huge!! Thanks for watching and thank you for knowledge sharing!!
I got a wireless ODB transmitter for my Jeep. It connects to an app on my phone. I can constantly monitor things while I drive, like the coolant temp that drove me to this video. They plug in, and you connect to it like it is a wifi network. There is also an option for bluetooth, but it only works for me on wifi.
I suggest adding a note at the top of the description reminding people to turn on the heater and have the A/C off prior to starting the car, otherwise they will not get all the air bubbles out. Also, there is a bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing that should be opened while doing the initial fill to allow air to escape. Lastly, there is nothing wrong with bouncing the RPM's to hasten warmup and to help push loose air pockets. It does not cause any wild gushing of coolant or pockets of steam. I've done it myself for years across dozens of vehicles without issue. Hopefully your Jeep is treating you well.
Great video, but one thing you forgot to mention is to turn the heater on while bleeding/refilling the system. There could be air in the heater core that needs to be burped.
@@briannamann9503 it is helpful as it gives proof that the air pockets all have been removed. nice "burn your hand" heat usually means the heater core is completely full of coolant, and the coolant system is flowing properly.
So one thing you forgot to mention is you can use the bleeder valve on thermostat housing....very good video though very precise and clear instructions thanks for giving me the confidence to do this repair correctly 😀 😉
Thanks for the great video. When burping the radiator at the end, mine took right at 27 minutes to completely finish purging all air bubbles so don't be surprised if it takes more than 20 min.
This was spot on 100% very well done my very first repair on my Jeep. I purchase everything you used and it worked with out a problem. When completed I disconnect the battery the horn beeped when I reconnected it and when I checked my desk the Check Engine Light was off also checked it again with my Bosch OBD Tester and the Code was cleared. Thank you again you saved me a lot of money.
Great video! Hopefully everyone doesn’t have the fun I did while doing this relatively simple job. Had a thermostat housing bolt head shear off with minimal torque. Spent an hour trying to remove it with vice grips until it finally came loose. Good times lol
I will have to show this to Mr. Martini. He works on my Jeep Cherokee. Keep up the amazing work my friend. It was so sweet of you to come by our channel and view our videos. We truly thank you for that.
Thanks for the positive feedback! My plan is to do more camping/boating vlogs this summer, but I like doing how to videos too because it feels like I'm giving back to the youtube community since so many how to videos have helped me out!! LOL
Great video! Thanks so much for the help and your simple presentation. Great job of providing confidence to those of us who are not true wrench turners. Thanks again.
Awesome glad to hear the video helped out!! I almost left out the part on the radiator bleeding, now I am glad I didn't!! Thanks for the positive feedback!!
coolant thermostat just went out in my 2013 JKU this morning. thanks for the great video, i will be changing it out in a little bit after the beast cools off!
Great video...great information. Gonna handle up on my Jeep Sahara 2013 - getting code P0128 ever since our trip to Colorado this past New Year's weekend. Thanks!
Thanks for the info, I'll be doing this tomorrow. One question I have is - how do you decide if you should go ahead and flush the system and add all brand new coolant?
Got done installing this exact same part on the front wheel drive caravan. That Spring clamp is very difficult to get to even with the special spring pliers managed to do it without disconnecting the power steering reservoir. It looked like no problem in the rear wheel drive set up.
No, if I remember correctly the bleeder on the thermostat housing was hard to get to once installed, that is why I chose to use the funnel method. Thanks for the positive feedback and thanks for watching!!
I personally have not noticed coolant temp swings like that... however, I will keep a closer eye on it and if I notice that I will do a video on it. Thanks for the info!
@@MileHighCampers Cool. Yeah, most people seem to see/be able to create it if they are accelerating hard on a hill or with high ambient temps. If you have the EVIC system in your jeep, you should be able to watch the temps in real time under the vehicle information screen. Might be an interesting video as it seems to be quite the topic on the forums. At any rate, thanks for the video!
Hi. I'm going to be replacing my thermostat very soon as i'm getting the same code. My question for you is did you reuse the coolant that you captured in the measuring cup?
Thanks for the good question. No, I did not reuse the coolant that came out, I used only New coolant to refill the radiator. To be honest if I had to do it again I might look in to just draining the entire system completely and refilling with new coolant so that I was using the same brand. They of course say you can mix brands but I would have more piece of mind knowing it was one product in the system. To be fair I have had NO issues with the coolant system with the mix brands of coolant in it since I did this repair. Hope that helps and thank you for watching!!
I'm curious why the motorad brand replacement 724-203 comes with such a heavy spring and the off set metal retaining plate? It comes in a kit with the parts to rebuild the existing housing. I assembled with the heavy spring and offset plate as the kit wanted and it would not open in boiling water with that heavy spring I had to swap in the previous spring and it opened than. Also I drilled an 1/8th inch hole out at the edge of the thermostat disc and placed that Hole "UP" during install so the air could bleed out easy and it did I did not have to open any bleeders it worked great.
Should I attempt this if my check engine light has not come on? I’m just noticing temp spikes during certain driving conditions high acc up a hill etc.
I appreciate your efforts in this vid but it didn't end there for you because you have to bleed the air out through the bleeder screw on your thermostat housing otherwise it will run hot and will over heat like my 2015 was doing
I found out that the Coolant/Fluid Temp Sensor is in the Cylinder head of the engine for the 2014 JK Wrangler and not in the location you briefly showed in the beginning of the video. I think the one you showed is for the engine temperature gauge in the dash and not the digital coolant temp shown in the menu screen on the dash. Part # is: 68164627AA
Great question, I just filled it until it was full after burping, one gallon of coolant was more than enough I still have some in the bottle. sorry for the late reply, thank you for watching!
The Jeep did have heat and the temp gauged seemed to be working. The check engine light being on was the only thing that indicated it was having a problem. I do know from past experience with other vehicles that a loss of heat can be caused by low levels of coolant. This may also indicate that you are low on coolant or have a leak in the system somewhere, possibly even a bad water pump. It's possible the thermostat may not be opening too. If you don't have a check engine light on you may want to check to see if you are just low in coolant (ONLY check the coolant when the engine is COLD). Thanks for watching!
Just a question. I’m about to do this job. You said the thermostat housing had a bleeder on it right? Can you just burp the air from the bleeder? Thanks
If I remember correctly the bleeder on the thermostat housing was hard to get to once installed, that is why I chose to use the funnel method. Thanks for the positive feedback and thanks for watching!! Good luck with changing it!!
I had to open the bleeder on my thermostat in order to get the air out. I had to remove the throttle body so I could get to the bleeder, but I had good results.
Hey Jose, great question a repair shop can reset the computer so that the light will go out. A place like Auto Zone can also reset the light but normally they don't like to do it, but you can always ask.... Or you can try what I did if you want, I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and than reconnected the battery and the light went out. The light will come back on if an issue remains. That's how I knew I did not fix the problem when I replaced the Coolant Sensor, because the light came back on after driving it for a day. Anyway hope that helps, thanks for checking out my channel!!
@@MileHighCampers Thanks for video and, fwiw, my BlueDriver scan tool says the P0128 code is persistent and can't be erased by a scan tool. Instead, when the fault is repaired the vehicle itself will clear the code. I too have a 2012 Unlimited and it's been throwing the P0128 code on an intermittent basis for past couple of months - will be doing the thermostat replacement soon.
Haha...do NOT put that coolant in there folks. Spend the $23.00 and get the factory coolant HOAT(5 year) for 2007-2012, OAT(10 year) for 2013 +. Would love the see the inside of this guys cooling system now.
MOPAR P/N 68048953AB is the HOAT coolant for this 2012 engine (that's the undiluted version and MOPAR also sells a 50/50 mix). Although I agree with sticking with the coolant made by MOPAR, Valvoline says their Zerex G-05 product is also a HOAT product so he might be just fine.
My Jeep is in fairly new condition, started with losing heat on the heater occasionally couple days ago and now it is overheating but there’s no check engine light, do you think changing the thermostat is still a good starting point? I was told my coolant is at the right level (abt halfway between min and max).
Run the car and blast the heat on. Give it a few revs to get it up to temperature. If you feel the upper coolant line is hot, it’s the water pump. If it’s not then it’s the thermostat
You can, but if I remember correctly, once installed the screw was hard to get to. If you can squeeze your way in there to get to the screw than that would be another way to bleed it. You could also drain the system completely and refill with all new coolant if you wanted to. Lots of different ways to do it, I would go with what ever way you are most comfortable with.
Somebody help me out, I replaced the thermostat and coolant sensor already and I still got a check engine light on, I cleared the light, but I have a feeling it's going go come back on after 50 miles, what's my next step if the light does come back on?
Hey Hector, sorry you are still having issues... if it were me I might run it by the dealership to see if they would diagnose it for free, I know they have better diagnostic machines than an advance auto or autozone.
I must admit I was a little surprised to have to do that repair for only being a 2012... but apparently its a common issue... surprise, surprise! LOL Thanks for watching!!
it was on the driver side of the engine, sorry I cant show you exactly where it is, but I would google its location and you may find an exploded parts view of the engine.
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video! Just FYI, in case you haven't already; you can buy an OBD-II diagnostic tool from Harbor Freight (or similar) for around $40. It will scan your engine codes and you can also reset them. No more going to a shop for a simple scan! Plus, you can reset the code yourself after the repair and find out if you really fixed it before you even leave the driveway! I use my tool on the 2012 Wrangler, the 2003 Mini Cooper and the 1997 XJ in my driveway and it works on all of them. Highly recommend! Thanks for the great video :)
Great info!! I will check it out for sure, hard to beat $40!! Sounds like a no brainier investment!! Being able to reset the code is huge!! Thanks for watching and thank you for knowledge sharing!!
You can cycle the key three times to get the codes for freeee.
Great info, Thanks for sharing!!
Don't shop harbor freight
I got a wireless ODB transmitter for my Jeep. It connects to an app on my phone. I can constantly monitor things while I drive, like the coolant temp that drove me to this video. They plug in, and you connect to it like it is a wifi network. There is also an option for bluetooth, but it only works for me on wifi.
I suggest adding a note at the top of the description reminding people to turn on the heater and have the A/C off prior to starting the car, otherwise they will not get all the air bubbles out.
Also, there is a bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing that should be opened while doing the initial fill to allow air to escape.
Lastly, there is nothing wrong with bouncing the RPM's to hasten warmup and to help push loose air pockets. It does not cause any wild gushing of coolant or pockets of steam. I've done it myself for years across dozens of vehicles without issue.
Hopefully your Jeep is treating you well.
Great video, but one thing you forgot to mention is to turn the heater on while bleeding/refilling the system. There could be air in the heater core that needs to be burped.
Damn, good call because I did do that, I cant believe I for got to mention it.
Would it be harmful not to?
@@briannamann9503 it is helpful as it gives proof that the air pockets all have been removed. nice "burn your hand" heat usually means the heater core is completely full of coolant, and the coolant system is flowing properly.
So one thing you forgot to mention is you can use the bleeder valve on thermostat housing....very good video though very precise and clear instructions thanks for giving me the confidence to do this repair correctly 😀 😉
Thanks I'll be doing this to my Jeep as soon as the parts get delivered
Thanks for the great video. When burping the radiator at the end, mine took right at 27 minutes to completely finish purging all air bubbles so don't be surprised if it takes more than 20 min.
Excellent video. Very well articulated steps that were easy to follow and well illustrated. Thank you!
This man has never taken a calculated risk in his life!
Love the Mandalorian sticker! 🤘
This was spot on 100% very well done my very first repair on my Jeep. I purchase everything you used and it worked with out a problem. When completed I disconnect the battery the horn beeped when I reconnected it and when I checked my desk the Check Engine Light was off also checked it again with my Bosch OBD Tester and the Code was cleared. Thank you again you saved me a lot of money.
Right on man, super happy the video helped you out!! Thanks for taking the time to leave such a great comment, I really appreciate it!!
Great video! Hopefully everyone doesn’t have the fun I did while doing this relatively simple job. Had a thermostat housing bolt head shear off with minimal torque. Spent an hour trying to remove it with vice grips until it finally came loose. Good times lol
I will have to show this to Mr. Martini. He works on my Jeep Cherokee. Keep up the amazing work my friend. It was so sweet of you to come by our channel and view our videos. We truly thank you for that.
Thanks for the positive feedback! My plan is to do more camping/boating vlogs this summer, but I like doing how to videos too because it feels like I'm giving back to the youtube community since so many how to videos have helped me out!! LOL
Thanks for this great detailed video. Very helpful 😎👍
Very helpful. Thank you. See you on the trail. ✌
Glad the video helped!! Happy Jeeping!!
Well done on the tutorial. Every step covered start to finish👍
Thank you for the great feedback, I appreciate it!!
Great video! Thanks so much for the help and your simple presentation. Great job of providing confidence to those of us who are not true wrench turners. Thanks again.
Thanks for the great feedback!! My goal is to help inspire people to tackle some of these doable repairs themselves... If I can do it anyone can!!
Worked like a charm. Completely painless, thanks for the tutorial and the tips
Thank you SO much for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it!! Glad the video helped you out!!
This video helped out a lot. Thank you. The radiator bleeding tool works like a champ. Wish I had it years ago.
Awesome glad to hear the video helped out!! I almost left out the part on the radiator bleeding, now I am glad I didn't!! Thanks for the positive feedback!!
Great Video! I just followed your instructions last night and everything came out great.
Awesome glad to hear it worked out!!
Thanks! Great vid.
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video.. very helpful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback!
1000th thumbs up! Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching, glad the video helped you out!!
Great video! Very well done. Thank you for doing it I didn't have any issues replacing mine
Awesome glad the video helped and that you were able to get yours fixed!! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Great video on thermostat replacement.
Thank you for the positive feedback, I appreciate it!!
coolant thermostat just went out in my 2013 JKU this morning. thanks for the great video, i will be changing it out in a little bit after the beast cools off!
Right on!! Hope the video helps out, the hardest part is burping the new coolant, everything else is pretty easy! Good Luck!!
How did you know the thermostat went bad?
Best vid ever 👌
Thank you SO much for the positive feedback I really appreciate it!! Glad the video helped you out!!
@@MileHighCampers
Directly I go to replace it.. 👍
Thank you, good DIY video.
Your welcome, thanks for good feedback!
Great video...great information. Gonna handle up on my Jeep Sahara 2013 - getting code P0128 ever since our trip to Colorado this past New Year's weekend. Thanks!
Thanks for the great feedback, glad you found value watching the video!!
Thanks for the info, I'll be doing this tomorrow. One question I have is - how do you decide if you should go ahead and flush the system and add all brand new coolant?
Excellent video very detailed!
Thanks for the great feedback!!
Thanks for the How to video. Good point to work on the car when the engine is cold! 👍🏼
Thanks for checking out the video Tony! Yeah Cold is key... made that mistake before... LOL
Great video! Would have loved to see how to replace the sensor - I’m getting the same error code on my 2013 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon.
I know sadly I messed that video up. Hope you got it figured out!
Got done installing this exact same part on the front wheel drive caravan. That Spring clamp is very difficult to get to even with the special spring pliers managed to do it without disconnecting the power steering reservoir. It looked like no problem in the rear wheel drive set up.
Maysuring cup
LOL, My wife makes fun of me all the time about that!!
May-zhure lol. Are you in Utah or Idaho?
I guess you must have edited out the "chase scene" when the wife caught you using her measuring cup ! LMAO
C'mon bro, don't deny !
😂😂😂🤣
Excellent tutorial! 👌🏻 thank you 👊🏻
Thanks for the positive feedback!! Hope the video helped, thanks for watching!!
Great Vid! Awesome info...and you're cute 😊
Great video. You did not open the bleeder on the thermostat housing to bleed the air out?
No, if I remember correctly the bleeder on the thermostat housing was hard to get to once installed, that is why I chose to use the funnel method. Thanks for the positive feedback and thanks for watching!!
Awesome stuff! I couldn't do that, haha! thanks! 💪🏽👁👁👍🏽
Thanks for checking out my video Sonny! This summer I plan to have more entertaining content! =)
Would love to see an opinion video on what your experiences with the wide engine coolant temp swings in the Jeep 3.6's ( 200 - 230+).
I personally have not noticed coolant temp swings like that... however, I will keep a closer eye on it and if I notice that I will do a video on it. Thanks for the info!
@@MileHighCampers Cool. Yeah, most people seem to see/be able to create it if they are accelerating hard on a hill or with high ambient temps. If you have the EVIC system in your jeep, you should be able to watch the temps in real time under the vehicle information screen. Might be an interesting video as it seems to be quite the topic on the forums. At any rate, thanks for the video!
Do you by chance have a part number for the coolant sensor, and a link to where you bought it? Thank you, great video!
I'm sorry I don't have the part number for the coolant sensor handy, but thanks for watching!
FYI .. when turning on the Jeep turn the heater on high and fan on low
About to do this on my 2013 JKU, question. You cleaned the surface with the razor blade but didn’t t use any sealant on the surface. Does it need it?
Well done.
Thanks for the positive feedback!!
Hi. I'm going to be replacing my thermostat very soon as i'm getting the same code. My question for you is did you reuse the coolant that you captured in the measuring cup?
Thanks for the good question. No, I did not reuse the coolant that came out, I used only New coolant to refill the radiator. To be honest if I had to do it again I might look in to just draining the entire system completely and refilling with new coolant so that I was using the same brand. They of course say you can mix brands but I would have more piece of mind knowing it was one product in the system. To be fair I have had NO issues with the coolant system with the mix brands of coolant in it since I did this repair. Hope that helps and thank you for watching!!
I watched Scotty Kilmer reuse the coolant.
@@timothykennedy3434 love Scotty!
I'm curious why the motorad brand replacement 724-203 comes with such a heavy spring and the off set metal retaining plate? It comes in a kit with the parts to rebuild the existing housing. I assembled with the heavy spring and offset plate as the kit wanted and it would not open in boiling water with that heavy spring I had to swap in the previous spring and it opened than.
Also I drilled an 1/8th inch hole out at the edge of the thermostat disc and placed that Hole "UP" during install so the air could bleed out easy and it did I did not have to open any bleeders it worked great.
Nice job, good flow. Do you have a video on flushing the heater core for a "No Heat" problem? Driver's side floor heat cold, passenger side hot.)
Thanks for the feedback! No but a flush is something I have been thinking about doing... may do a video on that in the future.
Did it’s throw heat before you changed the thermostat
computer codes can be your friend ;-) I found a bad gas cap like that.
I have had that one on this jeep as well!! LOL Thanks for watching!!
Should I attempt this if my check engine light has not come on? I’m just noticing temp spikes during certain driving conditions high acc up a hill etc.
Not sure about that one... sorry I could not be of more help.
I appreciate your efforts in this vid but it didn't end there for you because you have to bleed the air out through the bleeder screw on your thermostat housing otherwise it will run hot and will over heat like my 2015 was doing
Did you drain the whole radiator before starting? Thanks
No, I showed everything I did in the video.
I found out that the Coolant/Fluid Temp Sensor is in the Cylinder head of the engine for the 2014 JK Wrangler and not in the location you briefly showed in the beginning of the video. I think the one you showed is for the engine temperature gauge in the dash and not the digital coolant temp shown in the menu screen on the dash. Part # is: 68164627AA
Great info,Thank you for sharing!!
@@MileHighCampers Actually I was wrong and you were right! The Jeep dealer gave me the wrong engine diagram for a 3.8L.
Is this the same coolant that is in a 2014 Dodge grand Caravan
I added the thermostat to my cart on Amazon and it says it doesn’t fit my 2012 Jeep Wrangler unlimited sport ….curious why it’s saying that
Will the check engine light go off automatically or does it need to be cleared?
I had the battery disconnected when I did it, when the battery was reconnected the light never came back on.
So after you drained the coolant, how much did you put back in the radiator?
Great question, I just filled it until it was full after burping, one gallon of coolant was more than enough I still have some in the bottle. sorry for the late reply, thank you for watching!
Just out of curiosity has anybody tried the thermostat with the aluminum housing? Just curious if this would have any long-term benefits
Did it clear the code or what?
Did you have heat/did the temp gauge show normal operating temp prior to changing the sensor and then the thermostat?
The Jeep did have heat and the temp gauged seemed to be working. The check engine light being on was the only thing that indicated it was having a problem. I do know from past experience with other vehicles that a loss of heat can be caused by low levels of coolant. This may also indicate that you are low on coolant or have a leak in the system somewhere, possibly even a bad water pump. It's possible the thermostat may not be opening too. If you don't have a check engine light on you may want to check to see if you are just low in coolant (ONLY check the coolant when the engine is COLD). Thanks for watching!
Just a question. I’m about to do this job. You said the thermostat housing had a bleeder on it right? Can you just burp the air from the bleeder? Thanks
If I remember correctly the bleeder on the thermostat housing was hard to get to once installed, that is why I chose to use the funnel method. Thanks for the positive feedback and thanks for watching!! Good luck with changing it!!
I had to open the bleeder on my thermostat in order to get the air out. I had to remove the throttle body so I could get to the bleeder, but I had good results.
Did your CHECK ENGINE light go off??
Hey Jose, great question a repair shop can reset the computer so that the light will go out. A place like Auto Zone can also reset the light but normally they don't like to do it, but you can always ask.... Or you can try what I did if you want, I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and than reconnected the battery and the light went out. The light will come back on if an issue remains. That's how I knew I did not fix the problem when I replaced the Coolant Sensor, because the light came back on after driving it for a day. Anyway hope that helps, thanks for checking out my channel!!
@@MileHighCampers Thanks for video and, fwiw, my BlueDriver scan tool says the P0128 code is persistent and can't be erased by a scan tool. Instead, when the fault is repaired the vehicle itself will clear the code. I too have a 2012 Unlimited and it's been throwing the P0128 code on an intermittent basis for past couple of months - will be doing the thermostat replacement soon.
Why not reuse the coolant you captured removing the hose and thermostat?
Haha...do NOT put that coolant in there folks. Spend the $23.00 and get the factory coolant HOAT(5 year) for 2007-2012, OAT(10 year) for 2013 +. Would love the see the inside of this guys cooling system now.
Zerex G05 is HOAT.
MOPAR P/N 68048953AB is the HOAT coolant for this 2012 engine (that's the undiluted version and MOPAR also sells a 50/50 mix). Although I agree with sticking with the coolant made by MOPAR, Valvoline says their Zerex G-05 product is also a HOAT product so he might be just fine.
Great vid! Zerex G-05 is HOAT. It is recommended for 2002-2012 Jeep. After that OAT is recommended.
How do you get rid of the check engine light after changing this?
I disconnected the battery and than reconnected after about 10 min. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
My Jeep is in fairly new condition, started with losing heat on the heater occasionally couple days ago and now it is overheating but there’s no check engine light, do you think changing the thermostat is still a good starting point? I was told my coolant is at the right level (abt halfway between min and max).
Run the car and blast the heat on. Give it a few revs to get it up to temperature. If you feel the upper coolant line is hot, it’s the water pump. If it’s not then it’s the thermostat
Do you really need to drain the coolant?
I did not drain all the coolant only the coolant that was going to leak by removing the thermostat.
Do you not use the bleed screw on the thermostat housing?
You can, but if I remember correctly, once installed the screw was hard to get to. If you can squeeze your way in there to get to the screw than that would be another way to bleed it. You could also drain the system completely and refill with all new coolant if you wanted to. Lots of different ways to do it, I would go with what ever way you are most comfortable with.
@@MileHighCampers Cool, thanks!
Changed the thermostat but still have check engine light on….
Somebody help me out, I replaced the thermostat and coolant sensor already and I still got a check engine light on, I cleared the light, but I have a feeling it's going go come back on after 50 miles, what's my next step if the light does come back on?
Hey Hector, sorry you are still having issues... if it were me I might run it by the dealership to see if they would diagnose it for free, I know they have better diagnostic machines than an advance auto or autozone.
What error code did it show?
Dam jeeps lmfao jk good video brotatochip.😎
I must admit I was a little surprised to have to do that repair for only being a 2012... but apparently its a common issue... surprise, surprise! LOL Thanks for watching!!
where is the coolant sensor located?
it was on the driver side of the engine, sorry I cant show you exactly where it is, but I would google its location and you may find an exploded parts view of the engine.
found it thank you 😊
You don't have a diesel why used the diesel approve zerex
Man that throttle body needs cleaned. Good video tho.
Yeah it was pretty bad. Thanks for watching!