If you can get additional years of a tractor especially a model that hasn't been built since 1952 nobody's going to fault you. The only gripes I ever heard about the M was they were geared high especially fifth gear, a clutch that can be pretty wicked along with a PTO that ran a bit slow. But, given it's age and the fact that they're only about 40 HP to begin with you're getting amazing production out of it while minimizing it's drawbacks.
I thought 5th gear speed was just fine AS LONG AS your narrow front bushings didn't have slop. A loose front end was a scary ride. The real problem was that first gear was too fast. It needed to be about half the speed. M&W made a 9 speed conversion for the M's that was the cat's meow, but they're hard to find. Really tuned up you could get 50 or so HP out of them.
@@ffjsb M&W gear co had the cure for all the failings of the M and the H. they made a hand clutch that gave live pto and hydraulics power steering , friction throttle leve,r engine upgrades to take an M to 75hp, 9 spd transmission upgrade , a good 3pt hitch setup. put all these on an M and there is not much a new 60hp modern tractor can do that a tricked out M cant do and for a lot less money. i had these enhancements on my 44M i had a 450 LP head and manifold and 450 gas carb with 264 flat head engine kit and i had 62.5hp on the dyno. it would run circles around the 560 gas next door pulling a 4-14 fast trip plow in 3rd or a 3-16 in 4th gear in river bottome black gumbo dirt. the 560 could not pull his semi mtd 4-14 fast hitch plow , he had to get a 3-16 fast hitch plow.
The M and Super M are geared different. I never found the PTO to be slow if the engine is running the correct speed.. The W-6, as with the M, really boogie in 5th gear, both have the same power train, except the belly section that lengthens (where the hydraulic pump is) the M, is not in the W-6, making it shorter. Do you mean the clutch is hard to push or jerky? A common complaint on the very first W-6s is the clutch is hard to push. I am not sure about the M's, only had mid 40s M's and the W-6s of that era were good too. Some of those clutches are jumpy. Sometimes on the medium sized tractors of that era especially, the clutch can get jumpy.
Great idea on saving the sediment bowl. I have been leaning on adding a inline fuel filter to it and think you definitely made my decision. Now just gotta find time and figure that out.
I did some of the same improvements on my M. Thanks for the shout out. And I hope you do the plowing with the M because I just love the sound of an M working. 👍
When I bought my massey I replaced the hose and added the inline filter as soon as it was home I kept the sediment bowl before the inline filter. The inline filter has caught somuch junk great video you may save some peoples carbs
I see you have hydraulics. I found the remote valve setup with 2 hoses out in the weeds for my M. I didn't know for sure if it went on mine or not, but seeing yours confirms it. Good vid.
Ethanol free fuel is vital I'm my opinion. Our 53 super M started running rough one summer after the obama gas was mandated. A neighbor had some ethanol free fuel from the summer before. We drained the obama gas and have been running e free with no issues for the last decade or more. We only use the tractor to launch and retrieve our ski boat. We only burn 5-10 gallons of fuel each year. It's pretty cool with dual wheels we can launch/retrieve our ski boat right on the sandy beach.
Couple more improvements are an 18in 4 spoke steering wheel, makes a little easier to turn, and a MnW clutch extension ,easier to run the clutch. I'm gonna make up some of those. IH used 2 different kinds of clutch. A Rockford which is a full circle of pads,and a Auburn which a triangular button type for more positive lockup which is jumpy as hell but saves fuel and hardly ever wears out. You don't have to split the tractor to change the clutch on M or H so I'd rather have a Rockford.
Great ol' tractors! We have a couple old Internationals that get used as well as a couple Cockshutt 30s around the ranch. Give them a little TLC from time to time and they run forever. Really enjoyed this video!
One thing to improve fuel economy is to get some brass screen and put it in between your intake manifold and carburetor it separates the fuel more instead of being bunched up and it Burns more efficiently
The original Big Red...the legendary M. I burn non ethinol in mine too. No problems and not looking for any. I learned something today FF. I never thought of the sediment bowl as a water seperator. Thanks for pointing that out!
Excellent ,brought back a lot of memories thanks so well explained, would look cool with duals, you could put truck tires on front would stay up on top better. Great video .
This old video popped up on my feed, and was pretty good. The M is my favorite. I think my great uncles’ M’s would pull better than my grandparents WD45 even though the Aliss Chalmers had more horse power. They said it was because the M had a bigger crank shaft which gave it a longer stoke. Don’t know, but it pulled a three bottom with no problem.
The fuel filter and ignition are probably two of the best improvements for the money, not to mention easy. If you had a 3pt. hitch installed, front weights were almost a given, and having a couple of sets on the rear are really great too. I had full weights front and back on mine. Duals really don't do much (other than look REALLY cool) as you don't have that much HP to work with. The only advantage I can see is a bit more flotation in wet soil. But if you could drop in a bigger engine, that would come in handy. I think the M's were probably the smallest farm tractor that putting duals on was practical in any way. Fenders are really nice too, as they make it safer, and there's no other good place for a cup holder... Put an umbrella on and ride in style.
I am impressed with your rims turned in. Lol. Mine are too so as to get wheel spacing to cover a six foot rotary mower. Dished in was part of the wheel spacing strategy.
Nice tractor! I at one time collected and restored the entire Farmall letter series, even the BN. Due to health issues I sold off the fleet. I wish I had kept my cub though, had a one point hitch and all the implements. Super A and C were my favorites. Happy farming.
I saw this video over on the night owls Facebook page. who knew their was so much on a tractor i found it very interesting thanks for sharing hope you have a great day
There's nothing wrong with using a fuel filter. I am an originalist, but I like the filter you showed in another video that goes in the sediment bowl. The electronic ignition is all right. I can tell that this tractor is later than a 1940 before you told us. The gear shift knob is steel. IH used steel gear shift knobs in the war years to save rubber. The 1939-1942 models used rubber gear shift knobs... The odd 1942 might have a steel knob... Then the 1943 to 46 use steel knobs... Although sometime in 46 they might have returned to rubber and were rubber after that. Although the war ended we have had 1946 tractors with a steel knob. Petcocks were standard on the M. However, dipsticks were a rare option. Some people (like us) have used power unit engines to resurrect a dead tractor. They have dipsticks. The Diesel tractors used dipsticks, and so did the W-9s. The Super M and Super W-6, use the same engine as the 400. However, the dipstick is standard on the 400 and the petcocks are standard on the Supers.
As always another great video sir I also put the electronic ignition on my M. I just got tired of the condensers going bad with no warning. I still have to replace the seal for the pto and the seals behind the belt pulls. Eventually I’ll paint it up but I want to use it for a while to make sure all the oil leaks are fixed first
I owned a farmall h for almost 60 years the best upgrade I did to it was to install a 8 volt battery to replace the 6 volt. Just set the dial to high charge. I plowed snow in up state New York in the coldest winter days and it always started.
Two things I added to my early super M I love is the spin on oil filter adapter and the park brake lever rod whatever you wanna call it for a framall 350 both new from stiner
Ive got a M, my dad built for pulling. He took 13 different tractor rear ends. From a 1256 to a super A. Now first and second gear is slower than a turtle. I ran it the 13000 lbs class in the fair and won.
You Sir, are awesome. Very informative and educational. Wished the hell I lived close to ya, I could definitely be schooled. Love what you're doing, love your videos. Thank You
@@FarmallFanatic I am sure your Grandfather was a good man. This "Farmall Fever" that I have, seems to run deep in my soul, for whatever reasons that I can't explain. Fact is, I love em.
Big like #126 BOOM 💥 Chickens on the porch are great ! Yeah I guess you can’t plow in the rain. Man it was really coming down The ethanol free fuel is good for our boat motors too. But you have a water separator so you’re probably ok regardless. Magnets are a great idea!! Great video brother 💥
Nice video Farmall! I just have to make one comment on your inline filter, now don’t think I’m being a smart donkey (friendly words, lol), but we have 3 gas tractors on our farm all three having only the sediment bowl and never had an issue with getting junk in the carb. I was also presently surprised with our one H that had the small bowl, which is probably about half the size of your bowl, half filled with junk! But my experience won’t beat your experience, your solution to your problem is your solution! Another thing is the ethanol rating. I don’t know what ours is but we run farm gas, which I’m assuming is a low octane, in our gas tractors and gas start diesel tractors and haven’t had a problem yet. But again to each’s own experience!
Ethanol gas is meant to used up quickly. It's terrible for things that sit around much. It fine for tractors that are used every day. They should label it " Not for occasional use"!
Hey guys add this word to your vocabulary: GAS--CO--LATOR and that says it all about; getting only gasolene in your carb. Some gascolators also have an element (Buy extras) in them below the screen, which is above the gasket (Keep extra gaskets on hand) and that way it's a speedy change of the filter when you dump water from the glass bow l(Below which I have a soft catch basin, for when I may drop the bowl). I have replaced hundreds of gascolators because some dummies over tightened its valve or mongered up the bowl lip and jimmied the bale by using a pliers on it, as a tractor dealer for 45 years, giving away "Gascolators was my way of saying thanks for trusting me with your baby"! CMVHighPriest
It has been a very rainy year this year, I'm not a farmer but I suppose this is a good thing! Another excellent video thank enjoyed watching : ). until next time.
Personally I'd leave the sediment bowl as it is so you don't get a buildup of dirt and water sitting in the bottom of the tank rusting it. This way any junk goes in the bowl and you see it and empty it. Probably not an issue with you because you keep your tank full of non alcohol fuel.
I’m curious why you would put the shut off on the positive instead of negative? Generally they go on the negative because there’s no amps going through it when trying to start it which burns up the disconnects.
The sediment bowl should have a fine brass screen in it. Needs to be checked once in a while. Always use a sediment bowl cuz it traps water. If you get water you will see it in the bowl. A secondary fuel filter is a good idea. Always use non ethanol gas in the old tractors. That is what they were designed to run on. The higher octane rating does nothing but the ethanol gas leans the mixture out. It runs hotter. Its easier on the head, valves and seats to run the real gasoline. Plus the non ethanol gas burns slower than the ethanol fuel, and the longer burn gives a greater push on the long stroke engine. People think that the better power comes from the 90 octane rating on the non ethanol fuel. The better power comes from the slower burn which gives a push on the piston through the length of the stroke.
Just asking , have you ever thought about putting a turbo on that bad boy. And I was just wondering what it would do with one on it. It would be awesome I think. Anyway have a great week. 😁👍
There’s a method I’ve used on my m to remove rust from the inside of the tank by means of electrolysis. My tank came out like new inside. Took a couple days
I love the front end on Farm all.m. don't like the one on the H if I was in the woods skidding logs always scared of hitting something with the tie rods we used to have a Farm all m on the farm and a super M I owned it was my favorite. Narrow front end on the super m and wide front end on the M. But had to watch your thumb if you hit a rut more than once I got it
What is the rear Tim width on your tractor? Factory should have been 11 or 12 I believe. The 15 inch tires look good on those rims. I would like to put a bit bigger tire on mine when I get it running. Rims are in excellent condition but tires are shot and falling apart. I don't think it ever had calcium ballast in the rears.
Enjoyed the video Farmall F! A lot of good info and great tips. I'm going to use a lot of them for mine. What did you set your plus at? Have a good one!
Great overview! Right near the end there, you say that these are so easy that anyone could learn to work on them. Well, I just bought one (for snowplowing, mostly) and I'm not just new to tractors, but to engines in general. Is there a good resource you can point me to for getting up to speed? I'm hoping to learn as much as I can as quickly as possible, and improve my '49 Farmall M along the way. The guy I bought it from used it to plow for 20+ years, and I'm hoping to get the same out of it! :)
The screens are still in the settlement bowls or I should say on top, but they don't catch everything. The inline filter ensures clean gasoline going into that carburetor and it has made a world of difference. Especially if you are going to run ethanol fuel.
Nice tractor man!! Was just wondering why you run 15w40 diesel oil? I've got an old 33 and run 10w30 in it but am wondering if a thicker viscosity would be better. Thanks for the content!
You could have water anywhere to include the tank, spark plugs, and anywhere else you could possibly think... you need to dry it out. Put dry gas in the tank.
@@FarmallFanatic Thanks! I'll let it sit another day. I can't find water anywhere which is baffling me after it's already been sitting for a day and still running rough. Guess I'll get some painting done in the mean time :)
As for your ammeter,it moves when current passes thru it. When bat is charged up- no amperage is flowing,thus it sits on 0. The original gnd on unit is POSITIVE GND .if you hook up higher voltage generator and do not match the gnd's,weird things can happen. like blowing ign modules that are neg gnd..The most dangerous thing about these tractors,are the pto's are connected to drive train.If you are shredding,getting close to a ditch/fence,push in the clutch-shredder is a flywheel and pushes you across ditch/fence- with deadly results.Lost a neighbor that way. solution is over-running pto clutch.Available thru most tractor part places.
If you can get additional years of a tractor especially a model that hasn't been built since 1952 nobody's going to fault you. The only gripes I ever heard about the M was they were geared high especially fifth gear, a clutch that can be pretty wicked along with a PTO that ran a bit slow. But, given it's age and the fact that they're only about 40 HP to begin with you're getting amazing production out of it while minimizing it's drawbacks.
Oh definitely! 5th gear is like nascar lol
The thing below the tank with the glass bowl is a GAS--CO--LATOR!
I thought 5th gear speed was just fine AS LONG AS your narrow front bushings didn't have slop. A loose front end was a scary ride. The real problem was that first gear was too fast. It needed to be about half the speed. M&W made a 9 speed conversion for the M's that was the cat's meow, but they're hard to find. Really tuned up you could get 50 or so HP out of them.
@@ffjsb M&W gear co had the cure for all the failings of the M and the H. they made a
hand clutch that gave live pto and hydraulics power steering , friction throttle leve,r engine upgrades to take an M to 75hp, 9 spd transmission upgrade , a good 3pt hitch setup. put all these on an M and there is not much a new 60hp modern tractor can do that a tricked out M cant do and for a lot less money.
i had these enhancements on my 44M i had a 450 LP head and manifold and 450 gas carb with 264 flat head engine kit and i had 62.5hp on the dyno. it would run circles around the 560 gas next door pulling a 4-14 fast trip plow in 3rd or a 3-16 in 4th gear in river bottome black gumbo dirt. the 560 could not pull his semi mtd 4-14 fast hitch plow , he had to get a 3-16 fast hitch plow.
The M and Super M are geared different. I never found the PTO to be slow if the engine is running the correct speed.. The W-6, as with the M, really boogie in 5th gear, both have the same power train, except the belly section that lengthens (where the hydraulic pump is) the M, is not in the W-6, making it shorter. Do you mean the clutch is hard to push or jerky? A common complaint on the very first W-6s is the clutch is hard to push. I am not sure about the M's, only had mid 40s M's and the W-6s of that era were good too. Some of those clutches are jumpy. Sometimes on the medium sized tractors of that era especially, the clutch can get jumpy.
I am a huge fan of farmall I'm glad I found a another one on TH-cam.
Great idea on saving the sediment bowl. I have been leaning on adding a inline fuel filter to it and think you definitely made my decision. Now just gotta find time and figure that out.
I did some of the same improvements on my M. Thanks for the shout out. And I hope you do the plowing with the M because I just love the sound of an M working. 👍
When I bought my massey I replaced the hose and added the inline filter as soon as it was home I kept the sediment bowl before the inline filter. The inline filter has caught somuch junk great video you may save some peoples carbs
I see you have hydraulics. I found the remote valve setup with 2 hoses out in the weeds for my M. I didn't know for sure if it went on mine or not, but seeing yours confirms it. Good vid.
Ethanol free fuel is vital I'm my opinion. Our 53 super M started running rough one summer after the obama gas was mandated. A neighbor had some ethanol free fuel from the summer before. We drained the obama gas and have been running e free with no issues for the last decade or more. We only use the tractor to launch and retrieve our ski boat. We only burn 5-10 gallons of fuel each year. It's pretty cool with dual wheels we can launch/retrieve our ski boat right on the sandy beach.
Oh that must look tough with the duals 💪
Always loved those old tractors. That one sounds real good, no knocks or ticks that dont belong
Couple more improvements are an 18in 4 spoke steering wheel, makes a little easier to turn, and a MnW clutch extension ,easier to run the clutch. I'm gonna make up some of those. IH used 2 different kinds of clutch. A Rockford which is a full circle of pads,and a Auburn which a triangular button type for more positive lockup which is jumpy as hell but saves fuel and hardly ever wears out. You don't have to split the tractor to change the clutch on M or H so I'd rather have a Rockford.
Thanks for doing this video buddy! This helps me since I'm in the antique tractor group now lol 👍🇺🇸🚜💪
I have 2 m's and a 100...love them old tractors they have a personality all their own
Absolutely 👍
Lots of good information on the updates that you've done to the ol' girl. Stay safe.
Great ol' tractors! We have a couple old Internationals that get used as well as a couple Cockshutt 30s around the ranch. Give them a little TLC from time to time and they run forever. Really enjoyed this video!
One thing to improve fuel economy is to get some brass screen and put it in between your intake manifold and carburetor it separates the fuel more instead of being bunched up and it Burns more efficiently
That was soaker for sure. We got it down this way as well. Learning little by little about some of these Farmalls.
The original Big Red...the legendary M. I burn non ethinol in mine too. No problems and not looking for any. I learned something today FF. I never thought of the sediment bowl as a water seperator. Thanks for pointing that out!
Excellent ,brought back a lot of memories thanks so well explained, would look cool with duals, you could put truck tires on front would stay up on top better. Great video .
I agree!! Best thing I did was add the filter. I have not touched the carb in 10 years.
This old video popped up on my feed, and was pretty good. The M is my favorite. I think my great uncles’ M’s would pull better than my grandparents WD45 even though the Aliss Chalmers had more horse power. They said it was because the M had a bigger crank shaft which gave it a longer stoke.
Don’t know, but it pulled a three bottom with no problem.
They were the big tractor on the farm
I learn a lot about these machines when I watch your video
You explain very well 👍🏾
Agree with you 100% on the fuel filter and the bowl separator.
Best video's ever thank you farmall fanatic.
Appreciate it 🙏
The fuel filter and ignition are probably two of the best improvements for the money, not to mention easy. If you had a 3pt. hitch installed, front weights were almost a given, and having a couple of sets on the rear are really great too. I had full weights front and back on mine. Duals really don't do much (other than look REALLY cool) as you don't have that much HP to work with. The only advantage I can see is a bit more flotation in wet soil. But if you could drop in a bigger engine, that would come in handy. I think the M's were probably the smallest farm tractor that putting duals on was practical in any way. Fenders are really nice too, as they make it safer, and there's no other good place for a cup holder... Put an umbrella on and ride in style.
Thanx Farmall. Yep , I think the first video I saw of yours was about a year ago now.
We got rain in the Skook too😊😎
I am impressed with your rims turned in. Lol. Mine are too so as to get wheel spacing to cover a six foot rotary mower. Dished in was part of the wheel spacing strategy.
Bingo
Nice tractor! I at one time collected and restored the entire Farmall letter series, even the BN. Due to health issues I sold off the fleet. I wish I had kept my cub though, had a one point hitch and all the implements. Super A and C were my favorites. Happy farming.
Wow 👏
Beeeyutifull tractor! No ethanol for the farmall! I’m diggin it!! Have fun ploughing with that 1940 model fire extinguisher 🧯!!!😂😂😂
I saw this video over on the night owls Facebook page. who knew their was so much on a tractor i found it very interesting thanks for sharing hope you have a great day
There's nothing wrong with using a fuel filter. I am an originalist, but I like the filter you showed in another video that goes in the sediment bowl. The electronic ignition is all right. I can tell that this tractor is later than a 1940 before you told us. The gear shift knob is steel. IH used steel gear shift knobs in the war years to save rubber. The 1939-1942 models used rubber gear shift knobs... The odd 1942 might have a steel knob... Then the 1943 to 46 use steel knobs... Although sometime in 46 they might have returned to rubber and were rubber after that. Although the war ended we have had 1946 tractors with a steel knob. Petcocks were standard on the M. However, dipsticks were a rare option. Some people (like us) have used power unit engines to resurrect a dead tractor. They have dipsticks. The Diesel tractors used dipsticks, and so did the W-9s. The Super M and Super W-6, use the same engine as the 400. However, the dipstick is standard on the 400 and the petcocks are standard on the Supers.
As always another great video sir I also put the electronic ignition on my M. I just got tired of the condensers going bad with no warning. I still have to replace the seal for the pto and the seals behind the belt pulls. Eventually I’ll paint it up but I want to use it for a while to make sure all the oil leaks are fixed first
I owned a farmall h for almost 60 years the best upgrade I did to it was to install a 8 volt battery to replace the 6 volt. Just set the dial to high charge. I plowed snow in up state New York in the coldest winter days and it always started.
Chickens on the porch haha. Great information.That's a lot of rain. Hope everything drained and dried up.
Two things I added to my early super M I love is the spin on oil filter adapter and the park brake lever rod whatever you wanna call it for a framall 350 both new from stiner
I thought about it
This was very informative thank you. Sharing out
Great tips and tricks for improving your tractor looks like a bit rain wow really came down sledgehammered that like button
Ive got a M, my dad built for pulling. He took 13 different tractor rear ends. From a 1256 to a super A. Now first and second gear is slower than a turtle. I ran it the 13000 lbs class in the fair and won.
I bet guys were mad at you haha
Best feeling ever. I've got a 414 turbo for sale if you know someone.
You Sir, are awesome. Very informative and educational. Wished the hell I lived close to ya, I could definitely be schooled. Love what you're doing, love your videos. Thank You
Thank you! Fred was my grandfather's name 👍
@@FarmallFanatic I am sure your Grandfather was a good man. This "Farmall Fever" that I have, seems to run deep in my soul, for whatever reasons that I can't explain. Fact is, I love em.
Me too!
Wow Farmall it sure rained thank you for sharing 😊 💕👍 👍
Great info! I don't think I have ever seen a M with duals.
The Red 😈 Beast is on the prowl
And listen to that bad baby pur .. stay blessed brotha
I'm still looking for one,I will appreciate it if you let me know when you get another one..
Big like #126 BOOM 💥
Chickens on the porch are great !
Yeah I guess you can’t plow in the rain. Man it was really coming down
The ethanol free fuel is good for our boat motors too. But you have a water separator so you’re probably ok regardless. Magnets are a great idea!! Great video brother 💥
Nice video Farmall! I just have to make one comment on your inline filter, now don’t think I’m being a smart donkey (friendly words, lol), but we have 3 gas tractors on our farm all three having only the sediment bowl and never had an issue with getting junk in the carb. I was also presently surprised with our one H that had the small bowl, which is probably about half the size of your bowl, half filled with junk! But my experience won’t beat your experience, your solution to your problem is your solution! Another thing is the ethanol rating. I don’t know what ours is but we run farm gas, which I’m assuming is a low octane, in our gas tractors and gas start diesel tractors and haven’t had a problem yet. But again to each’s own experience!
We have really bad gasoline in my area...not sure why, but it is here.
Ethanol gas is meant to used up quickly. It's terrible for things that sit around much. It fine for tractors that are used every day. They should label it " Not for occasional use"!
to bad about that much rain but ya for a 1940 tractor its mint good job knowing what you need to upgrade it thumbs up and shared
Tire-Ject will give you some security on those rear tires. Any equipment tires, for that matter.
Agree
M looks good! Really miss my 1944 JD B.
Hey guys add this word to your vocabulary: GAS--CO--LATOR and that says it all about; getting only gasolene in your carb. Some gascolators also have an element (Buy extras) in them below the screen, which is above the gasket (Keep extra gaskets on hand) and that way it's a speedy change of the filter when you dump water from the glass bow l(Below which I have a soft catch basin, for when I may drop the bowl). I have replaced hundreds of gascolators because some dummies over tightened its valve or mongered up the bowl lip and jimmied the bale by using a pliers on it, as a tractor dealer for 45 years, giving away "Gascolators was my way of saying thanks for trusting me with your baby"!
CMVHighPriest
Like 9 Nice upload
watching and supporting!! hope you're doing well during this COVID-19 situation! I got laid off from my job at CNHi.
That was interesting about using magnets to help with rust.
It has been a very rainy year this year, I'm not a farmer but I suppose this is a good thing! Another excellent video thank enjoyed watching : ). until next time.
beautiful tractor. Great Mods.
POR 15 does a great job go getting rust out of the tank a did this to my John Deere G . it worked great.
Ill give it a shot
👍thanks , great videos 👋
Good informative video thank you 👍👍
Put 450 piston & liner kit in it. Then you will have something. We have a Super M that I built that's putting out 105 PTO HP. with a few other mods.
Great video my friend! Like 116 and shared :) Keep up the awesome work! :)
The chickens are smart the rain can be your bestfriend or your worst friend as a farmer
Personally I'd leave the sediment bowl as it is so you don't get a buildup of dirt and water sitting in the bottom of the tank rusting it. This way any junk goes in the bowl and you see it and empty it. Probably not an issue with you because you keep your tank full of non alcohol fuel.
True
Love the hat! Grabbed one just like it the other day
👍
Definitely prefer non ethanol fuel for equipment and boat motors. Cool walk through, I would have assumed it was diesel otherwise.
does the M have live hydraulics? i would love to own one to pull a 10ft mower !
No they aren't live, but still a good antique POWERHOUSE
Another great video. Awesome channel and content.
I’m curious why you would put the shut off on the positive instead of negative? Generally they go on the negative because there’s no amps going through it when trying to start it which burns up the disconnects.
I don't speak for everyone but I personally have not had any problems either way
we finally got some rain today in Oklahoma. I have big cracks in my yard.
Great stuff and another full watch from me !!!
Thank you!
Love tractors..very nice
The sediment bowl should have a fine brass screen in it. Needs to be checked once in a while. Always use a sediment bowl cuz it traps water. If you get water you will see it in the bowl. A secondary fuel filter is a good idea. Always use non ethanol gas in the old tractors. That is what they were designed to run on. The higher octane rating does nothing but the ethanol gas leans the mixture out. It runs hotter. Its easier on the head, valves and seats to run the real gasoline. Plus the non ethanol gas burns slower than the ethanol fuel, and the longer burn gives a greater push on the long stroke engine. People think that the better power comes from the 90 octane rating on the non ethanol fuel. The better power comes from the slower burn which gives a push on the piston through the length of the stroke.
Nice Farmall tractor
Very nice video keep up the good work.
Just asking , have you ever thought about putting a turbo on that bad boy. And I was just wondering what it would do with one on it. It would be awesome I think. Anyway have a great week. 😁👍
My eyeballs was on this good bbq food I'm eating, but it played and was heard in full hahaha. BOOM---WOOOHOOO
watched your ads. and your video. we also hit like . again I dont know alot about these things lol, but thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Lot's of really great info .
There’s a method I’ve used on my m to remove rust from the inside of the tank by means of electrolysis. My tank came out like new inside. Took a couple days
Yeah I know a few guys that also do that
Good looking M
Good idea on the magnet
I love the front end on Farm all.m. don't like the one on the H if I was in the woods skidding logs always scared of hitting something with the tie rods we used to have a Farm all m on the farm and a super M I owned it was my favorite. Narrow front end on the super m and wide front end on the M. But had to watch your thumb if you hit a rut more than once I got it
I’ve many an hour on a 49 model. Ours was propane fueled, tricycle gear.
Very interesting
Do some more vids on the 140. Thanks
Awesome video sir!
What is the rear Tim width on your tractor? Factory should have been 11 or 12 I believe. The 15 inch tires look good on those rims. I would like to put a bit bigger tire on mine when I get it running.
Rims are in excellent condition but tires are shot and falling apart. I don't think it ever had calcium ballast in the rears.
15.5x38s...on 14" rims
Nice old m.
Enjoyed the video Farmall F! A lot of good info and great tips. I'm going to use a lot of them for mine. What did you set your plus at? Have a good one!
I'd be eating those chickens if they started pooping on my porch! Dualies would look cool on the tractor!
Thinking about buying a 1951 M
Anyone know if there are loaders that fit them and a brush hog or belly mower ?
Nice M , I have a Super M TA what do you use for hydraulic fluid? I had trouble lifting my 3 bottom plow out of the ground . Let me know , thanks
Watch my latest upload...pertains directly to this 👍
excellent information...i miss DJ
I don't
You need a Super C also! Good call using non-ethanol.
Yeah I thought about it and then I could get a two bottom fast hitch
great video brother
Great overview! Right near the end there, you say that these are so easy that anyone could learn to work on them. Well, I just bought one (for snowplowing, mostly) and I'm not just new to tractors, but to engines in general. Is there a good resource you can point me to for getting up to speed? I'm hoping to learn as much as I can as quickly as possible, and improve my '49 Farmall M along the way.
The guy I bought it from used it to plow for 20+ years, and I'm hoping to get the same out of it! :)
Just remember this there are only 3 things that can be wrong with an engine fuel fire or air.
That's a good tip - hadn't heard that one before. Thanks!
Does the rubber bushing go between the tank and tank support as well as between the nut and support?
I can tell you, if it looks like it needs it, do it
they used to make a screen to go in the sediment bowl, it would catch all your inline filter does
The screens are still in the settlement bowls or I should say on top, but they don't catch everything. The inline filter ensures clean gasoline going into that carburetor and it has made a world of difference. Especially if you are going to run ethanol fuel.
I have a 40. I would love to set up with a 3 point. How did you configure your hydraulics? My belly pump is pretty weak.
I have M n W hydraulics and it's just the Christmas tree with the belly pump
I'm kinda new what does the positive battery terminal switch thing you mentioned do?? Purpose
Shuts the battery off so it doesn't drain
Nice tractor man!! Was just wondering why you run 15w40 diesel oil? I've got an old 33 and run 10w30 in it but am wondering if a thicker viscosity would be better. Thanks for the content!
I like the thicker viscosity for the summer heat
daniel tesar the Shell Rotella 1540 still has zinc to protect flat tappets and cam.
@@RedIron1066 are you talking about the Rotella 15-40 T4?
Excellent video f f I agree totally
put some covers on the tires to keep uv rays off when thay sit
In line filters are worth the time
Forgot my b-n has a short nipple on bulb into tank!
Next time I will go a little higher into the tank
Anyone able to offer to M advice on rough idle after pressure washing and degreasing engine? This looks like the go-to spot for Farmall folks!
You could have water anywhere to include the tank, spark plugs, and anywhere else you could possibly think... you need to dry it out. Put dry gas in the tank.
@@FarmallFanatic Thanks! I'll let it sit another day. I can't find water anywhere which is baffling me after it's already been sitting for a day and still running rough. Guess I'll get some painting done in the mean time :)
Also pull the dipstick and make sure you didn't get water in the engine. It doesn't take much water in the fuel for it to run rough
As for your ammeter,it moves when current passes thru it. When bat is charged up- no amperage is flowing,thus it sits on 0. The original gnd on unit is POSITIVE GND .if you hook up higher voltage generator and do not match the gnd's,weird things can happen. like blowing ign modules that are neg gnd..The most dangerous thing about these tractors,are the pto's are connected to drive train.If you are shredding,getting close to a ditch/fence,push in the clutch-shredder is a flywheel and pushes you across ditch/fence- with deadly results.Lost a neighbor that way. solution is over-running pto clutch.Available thru most tractor part places.
Agree