For the front cover Holley makes an aluminum cover. HLY-21-152 do yourself a favor and get one of those. They make them with or without the boss for the crank sensor. I used the with the crank sensor. As an off roader the biggest problem was always a carb. Carbs don't like being bounced around, nor do they like extreme angles. Access to the cheap fuel injector available with the 880 block is a HUGE upgrade. They can easily be converted to a multi-point. I am using that setup in my -57 Willy Wagon with the GM computer and wiring and LOVE it. I've got pretty much the same setup in my 96 Yukon. I was contemplating converting to an LS block but after watching Piss cutter videos I upgraded the Yukon 880 block. Maybe not quite as good as a LS but with the mods here it saved me a TON of work and money. THANKS PISS CUTTER!!!
I have a bone stock 2000 350 vortec 175K I put in a 58 chevy wagon. I added a nice quadrajet, intake and hei. I used short waterpump, I didn't tap the block for timing cover but I learned after a few months the balancer was not going to cut it. Forget using stock dipstick with ramhorn exhaust mainfolds as well. I have a few leaks to fix. (didn't leak a drop first year) but as far as stock motor it runs great. Used the ac delco boat fuel pump starts and runs great. I wouldn't rebuild a flat tappet 350 from scratch again I'd go with a roller block. There's a dyno of a stock junkyard vortec 350 with holley 650, headers makes 313hp and over 390LBs of torque. Great cruiser engine in stock form.
good luck finding them......I had an 010 4 bolt engine I bought 20 years ago for like $30 cause I was in the right place at the right time.....sold it about a year later for $100 to a guy I knew that built it for his Monte Carlo. Now the Monte's and the 010 blocks are all gone.
@@Shade_tree_garage01 I am trying to jack up the prices? What color is the sky in your world? The newest of those boat anchors is 30 years old and I wouldn't pay you 30 bucks for that cracked POS that you just ''scored''.
@4:40 the lifter gallery plugs from the factory had pinholes to get extra oil on the timing chain, since the retainer plate blocks the drip from the front cam bearing that oiled flat tappet timing chains. So far as the timing cover goes I left the reluctor, and bought a plastic timing cover that wasn't drilled for the crank sensor. That let me use a Vortec balancer, and will allow fuel injection to go back on later if desired. @11:00 the SGI blocks (some TBI, Most Vortec) experience ALOT less bore wear than the old grey cast iron blocks. Not uncommon to open a 300,000 mile Vortec and put it back together STD bore.
880 very quality block with a bit more nickel added to the iron for less wear gm calls it an E block for enhanced along with the head design made to last twice as long as old blocks I also like the oil pan windage tray setup on my 98 and factory forged rods makes for easy cheap 400hp everyday reliable...
@@johnwehunt4305 yes there is a lot of controversy whether the pm rods qualify as forged. They go through a process similar to die forging where they are heated to extreme temperatures and press compacted in a die. Started out with powdered grains/ bonding agents and sintering is all together different than the traditional forging process.
I had a 1990 350 block out of a truck that had the spider retainer holes drilled but the lifter bosses weren't milled for the lifter dog bones. I thought It was really weird
Some of the old school guys are unsure of them haha but they are great engines! A little more expensive to build with a roller cam but its for sure worth it 👌
You ever add an aftermarket computer & msd distributor ect & trigger off the crank? Been wondering if an LS1 system could be adapted using the cam sensor to trigger #1 & 2-8 off the crank sensor. They could both be triggered off the timming cover & or adding an external crank trigger. Coil over plug has some cool advantages
Hey, I've read that the 880 blocks have a shorter cylinder bore length, and isn't ideal for a 383 stroker crank. the pistons pull too far out the bottom of the cylinders.. Did you notice this when building your 383? Did you change the rod length and move the pin height up in the piston?
Yes that is true. Use a 6 inch rod with your stoker kit and youll be fine But you can use a 5.700 rod but only when running hyper pistons with tight wall clearance or you'll find the piston will rock at the bottom of the bore causing a weird wear pattern on the piston skirt.
I have 94 sbc 638 block, edelbrock heads, what water pump should I use? Going into a 72 chevelle, long snout water pump Thanks keep the great videos coming.
Both the 638 block and edelbrock heads will be drilled for an internal water pump bypass so a traditional SBC water pump works just fine. You can fit a good size rad and have lots of air flow with a chevelle, so a regular volume stock replacement pump should work for you Cheers!
You mentioned a couple things new to me. Maybe a video about them is a good idea. Sonic testing... How is that done? Block filler? A question about the vortec 880 oil pan. Does a Vortec oil pan have that horizontal baffle it like the earlier ones? Because the 880 main cap bolts have provision for a windage tray. Not sure if I need both.
If the 2 piece is installed correctly it will never leak, but with the one piece will have a better chance for leaking due to the back plate that bolts to the back of the block.
Every vortec block ive seen does not have the 3rd hole on the passenger side for an older style water pump, just something to keep in mind when swapping blocks around
With 3/4 tons, you're looking for a 2500HD 8 lug wheels. 6 lug 3/4 ton trucks nearly always have 2 bolt mains unless they have a service replacement engine. That's typically how HD trucks end up with 2 bolt main engines too.
has anybody come across a one piece seal block that has stepped lifter bores in it? the top 3/16 or so of the bore is about 1/8" bigger in diameter. when you try to put a high lift cam in it the lifter comes up out of the normal bore diameter enough that it causes a major oil leak and will not work correctly. was this done on purpose at the factory and if so why.
I build these for a living and I had one in the 90s that customer had and wanted a roller cam in it. The oil pressure was extremely low and couldn’t figure it out. I ran without a valve cover and noticed major oil splash coming from underneath through pushrod holes. Yanked intake and figured out oil bands in lifters were exposed in the wider part of lifter bore and exposing the oil gallery. I had to have another block machined and cured problem.
Ive got a 95 tahoe with the 5.7. If I got a 1 piece block ( I know from when I had the trans rebuilt ) can I replace the pan seal? I've got a slow leak coming from the pan gasket. I had the rear main replace when the trans was rebuilt. Just don't know if its too much of a hassle to deal with it now vs when I replace the engine down the line. Its got 150k and lifter tick so its kinda iffy.
Yeah you can replace the pan seal but its abit of a job. You will have a drop down the front diff (if its 4wd) and jack up the motor abit and if i remember correctly the exhauat is in the way too
@@cuttersperformance well knowing all that I might just wait to replace the block. Lol. I know I won't have to worry about the exhaust since I went true dual straights and it doesn't come near the pan anymore. Would just suck to find out its a four bolt main and put in a two bolt block block. Lol. Might have to use my bore scope the next oil change and try and find out. The previous owner claimed it was a four bolt main but I have my doubts. Lol. Thanks for the response and keep up the videos! I love watching them!
With the first run of 1pc RMS. Do you prefer to run the 638 or 148? The 148 has 638 cast into the base webbing, and seems identical, but the oil gallery has less and smaller gussets. Which do you prefer?
I have never been able to get my hands on a early 148 block so I can't say for sure. But the best blocks are usually the 638 4 bolt mains. Or you can take a good casted 638 from a f body and make it a 4 bolt with sprayed caps
Had a rear main leak after my 2piece 355 build. Got an offset rear main. rtv’d the cap n block registers, seal ends and outer part of seal (where it’s housed in the block and the cap). Less leak, but still leaks🤦♂️. Any suggestions?
Offset seals a good start cause oftentimes the crank gets worn where the seal rides. Do you offset the seal in the cap so it doesn't line up the the mating surface of the block? Also how much RTV did you use? Too much might be causing you issues
@@cuttersperformance yeah. Offset the seals less than 1/4”. I put a dab of rtv on the ends and a very thin layer on the outer groove. However, i did get a light shaving basically around the entire top seal as I was sliding it between the crank and block.
Is there any particular year or range of years or castings for a 1 pc seal, roller cam 350 blocks that are easiest or most sensible to build on, for street use, say 350-400hp target. I'm thinking this might be the cheapest/easiest upgrade to the old 79 L82 smogbog engine (hft) in my Corvette. I'd love to throw a late model LS in it but I'm not tooled up for a big headachy retro-fab job like that.
87 to 95 (638) roller blocks are good, will have provisions for mechanical fuel pump 4 or 2 bolt mains are fine but should sonic test cylinder walls as some can be thin. Some will need the holes tapped for the lifter tray. The 1996+ vortec 880 block are good aswell but they often won't have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. Two timing cover bolts may have to drilled/ tapped. Cylinder walls are often quite thick and usually have minimal Cylinder wear. I've pushed both style blocks past 500hp
So, do all factory 350 1 piece rear main seal engines use a flex plate that has a weight welded onto it? I have a 1986 350 crate motor 10048971 that will be going into a 1979 pickup with a turbo 350 trans and stock torque converter and I'm trying to figure out what flex plate and harmonic dampener to use.
Yeah, the 1pc engines are considered externally balanced on the rear so the flex plate will have a weight on it. Actually, funny story, I once had a c4 corvette at the shop that the customer just bought. This car didn't have the original engine, and it had a pretty intense engine vibration. It took me a bit to figure out what was going on, but it turned out that when they swapped the engine, they dilled out the counter weight on the fly wheel. The customer didn't really want to spend the money pulling the engine or transmission but wondered if there was a fix I could do to make it better. Well, my redneck idea....I removed the starter and fill welded all spots that were drilled out in the flywheel. Worked perfectly! Hahaha, it's been like that for 5+ years
2 piece flex plates have a larger bolt spacing mount pattern then a 1 piece seal, also no large weight. An exception could be an 400 sbc, not sure about their bolt spacing but they do have a weight.
@@cuttersperformance thanks man. I went ahead and ordered one. It'll be here today. I'm hoping to get this in the run stand tomorrow. It's sad we don't have any engine dynos here in North Carolina. Shit load of drive ons.
Great video. I to like the late model blocks. Here's a question. Have you done a crank conversion. 2 piece to one piece block? I looked for a video. Couldn't find one. I think you need to make one. Thanks and holler back!!
There are good things about both blocks. The 2 piece rear main seals are easier to change with the engine still in the truck or car, as long as you can get the pan off. The 2 piece rear main will not leak if it's installed properly, at least that's my experience. The later 1 piece blocks allow you to run a roller cam affordably.
The biggest difference is you probably won't need to change the seal if it is one piece. The two piece seal was notorious for leaks, which is why they went to a one piece. Blame the mechanic lol the one piece seal goes where it goes the two piece goes where it goes, the mechanic put it in wrong is a farce.
@@michaeldose2041 The 2 piece seal does not just "go where it goes". To install the 2 piece rear seal properly, you have to install the seals so the parting lines of the seal don't line up with the parting lines between the block and the rear main cap. Then, smear some Ultra Black RTV on the bottom of the main cap and the ends of the seals. I've been doing them this way for more than 20 years with no leaks. No seal lasts forever.
They work great but only if you buy the adapter centering bar they sell that bolts in the rear cap to center the seal adapter in the same plane as the crank.
Strictly my opinion I prefer the one piece rms it has a thicker rear hub for mounting a flywheel or flex plate. Although it is easier to replace a two piece RMS you don't have to drop the transmission to do the job but if you don't do it right you're doing it twice also the one piece has better oil pan gaskets from the factory. You can get the same crank sizes for either but I always tell people use what came in your application unless you already have to buy a different flywheel for flex plate. I'm running an 86 trans am with a gmpp 350 1-piece rms, roller cam, vortec heads ported, stealth ram, and CX Racing single turbo with t-76. All backed by a T-56 and a 9-bolt with 3.70 gears.
I sonic test each one. I find the 638 blocks are all over the place for thickness/thin spots, but sometimes are the thickest and good blocks. The 880 blocks are abit more consistent. If they sonic test well, I've had no issues with them under the 500hp level
Thats true but often times they were drilled at the front by not all the way up into the head (there's no hole in the deck surface) that block is indeed a 880 vortec block
Yeah as soon as you remove the reluctor ring off the crank (you will need to remove it when going double roller) then you will need a regular sbc balancer
*Pertaining to MOST applications 1955-1986 sbc are all 2 piece remain seals. Hydraulic flat tappet cam engines using perimeter bolt valve covers. 1987+ are all 1 piece rear main seal, roller cam, center bolt valve covers. *Now, with that said some of the early 88-"98" trucks, like '89 year models or so have been known to have left the factory with a flat tappet cam. I've never seen it myself but have heard it from a few who have no reason to lie
That is true, the tbi trucks 95 and earlier often times have a flat tappet cam. As mentioned in the video sometimes the holes are tapped for the roller lifter cage and sometimes not
Every '87 TBI engine we have are not roller cam. We have 2 sitting here and one we rebuilt in a Suburban. They have the provisions for the spider but are not drilled and tapped. And have flat tappet cams with center bolt covers.
For the front cover Holley makes an aluminum cover. HLY-21-152 do yourself a favor and get one of those. They make them with or without the boss for the crank sensor. I used the with the crank sensor. As an off roader the biggest problem was always a carb. Carbs don't like being bounced around, nor do they like extreme angles. Access to the cheap fuel injector available with the 880 block is a HUGE upgrade. They can easily be converted to a multi-point. I am using that setup in my -57 Willy Wagon with the GM computer and wiring and LOVE it. I've got pretty much the same setup in my 96 Yukon. I was contemplating converting to an LS block but after watching Piss cutter videos I upgraded the Yukon 880 block. Maybe not quite as good as a LS but with the mods here it saved me a TON of work and money. THANKS PISS CUTTER!!!
Just watched again , very informative , thanks .
Subbed due to your vortec head machining videos. Thank you for the detailed info.
I have a bone stock 2000 350 vortec 175K I put in a 58 chevy wagon. I added a nice quadrajet, intake and hei. I used short waterpump, I didn't tap the block for timing cover but I learned after a few months the balancer was not going to cut it. Forget using stock dipstick with ramhorn exhaust mainfolds as well. I have a few leaks to fix. (didn't leak a drop first year) but as far as stock motor it runs great. Used the ac delco boat fuel pump starts and runs great. I wouldn't rebuild a flat tappet 350 from scratch again I'd go with a roller block. There's a dyno of a stock junkyard vortec 350 with holley 650, headers makes 313hp and over 390LBs of torque. Great cruiser engine in stock form.
I myself go for the old guys especially the 69-72 blocks because some of the 4 bolt blocks have 2482 nodular main caps. Newer blocks don’t have them
good luck finding them......I had an 010 4 bolt engine I bought 20 years ago for like $30 cause I was in the right place at the right time.....sold it about a year later for $100 to a guy I knew that built it for his Monte Carlo. Now the Monte's and the 010 blocks are all gone.
010 blocks are everywhere
Yes all three of the remaining blocks that are bored 60 over.
@@michaeldose2041 bought a 3970010 block literally 2 Months ago for 50 bucks, standard bore.
Y’all just tryna jack up the prices Lmaooo.
@@Shade_tree_garage01 I am trying to jack up the prices? What color is the sky in your world? The newest of those boat anchors is 30 years old and I wouldn't pay you 30 bucks for that cracked POS that you just ''scored''.
@4:40 the lifter gallery plugs from the factory had pinholes to get extra oil on the timing chain, since the retainer plate blocks the drip from the front cam bearing that oiled flat tappet timing chains.
So far as the timing cover goes I left the reluctor, and bought a plastic timing cover that wasn't drilled for the crank sensor. That let me use a Vortec balancer, and will allow fuel injection to go back on later if desired.
@11:00 the SGI blocks (some TBI, Most Vortec) experience ALOT less bore wear than the old grey cast iron blocks. Not uncommon to open a 300,000 mile Vortec and put it back together STD bore.
880 very quality block with a bit more nickel added to the iron for less wear gm calls it an E block for enhanced along with the head design made to last twice as long as old blocks I also like the oil pan windage tray setup on my 98 and factory forged rods makes for easy cheap 400hp everyday reliable...
@@johndough2363 the block is Nodular iron, the "extra nickel" is a wives tale.
@@johndough2363 all the old Chevy rods were forged
@@stevenbelue5496 The vortec 350 had powered metal rods that are superior to the earlier rods.
@@johnwehunt4305 yes there is a lot of controversy whether the pm rods qualify as forged. They go through a process similar to die forging where they are heated to extreme temperatures and press compacted in a die. Started out with powdered grains/ bonding agents and sintering is all together different than the traditional forging process.
some of the old blocks had nodular iron main caps what material are these made from
very informative, thanks, Atlanta
I had a 1990 350 block out of a truck that had the spider retainer holes drilled but the lifter bosses weren't milled for the lifter dog bones. I thought It was really weird
Wow never seen that before
Did it have the cam retainer plate holes?
@@cuttersperformance it had the bosses for it but they weren't drilled
Thanks for the info, most shops in my area talk me out of them; and send me off to find an old good block or a new shp block.
Some of the old school guys are unsure of them haha but they are great engines! A little more expensive to build with a roller cam but its for sure worth it 👌
thanks well noted.....good info.. steve in australia..
You ever add an aftermarket computer & msd distributor ect & trigger off the crank? Been wondering if an LS1 system could be adapted using the cam sensor to trigger #1 & 2-8 off the crank sensor. They could both be triggered off the timming cover & or adding an external crank trigger. Coil over plug has some cool advantages
I haven't, but I have used sequential computers (holley) on Gen1 sbcs using dual sync distributors
Efi connection has 24x and 58x timing cover and reluctor setups for sbc and gen2 lt1 so you can run ls1 coil on plug and ls computers
Hey, I've read that the 880 blocks have a shorter cylinder bore length, and isn't ideal for a 383 stroker crank. the pistons pull too far out the bottom of the cylinders.. Did you notice this when building your 383? Did you change the rod length and move the pin height up in the piston?
Yes that is true. Use a 6 inch rod with your stoker kit and youll be fine
But you can use a 5.700 rod but only when running hyper pistons with tight wall clearance or you'll find the piston will rock at the bottom of the bore causing a weird wear pattern on the piston skirt.
Great video, thanks for sharing
I have 94 sbc 638 block, edelbrock heads, what water pump should I use? Going into a 72 chevelle, long snout water pump
Thanks keep the great videos coming.
Both the 638 block and edelbrock heads will be drilled for an internal water pump bypass so a traditional SBC water pump works just fine.
You can fit a good size rad and have lots of air flow with a chevelle, so a regular volume stock replacement pump should work for you
Cheers!
You mentioned a couple things new to me. Maybe a video about them is a good idea. Sonic testing... How is that done? Block filler?
A question about the vortec 880 oil pan. Does a Vortec oil pan have that horizontal baffle it like the earlier ones? Because the 880 main cap bolts have provision for a windage tray. Not sure if I need both.
If the 2 piece is installed correctly it will never leak, but with the one piece will have a better chance for leaking due to the back plate that bolts to the back of the block.
Every vortec block ive seen does not have the 3rd hole on the passenger side for an older style water pump, just something to keep in mind when swapping blocks around
just watched your water pump bypass video and its all explained there
I got an 880 block that does
With 3/4 tons, you're looking for a 2500HD 8 lug wheels. 6 lug 3/4 ton trucks nearly always have 2 bolt mains unless they have a service replacement engine. That's typically how HD trucks end up with 2 bolt main engines too.
Haha that is very true! Its happened to me when I thought I was for sure getting a 4 bolt
Thanks for the info
@@cuttersperformance my biggest disappointment is popping the hood on a late 90s 1 ton and finding a small block instead of a 454 😂
@@jr78racer haha I like your style 😎
has anybody come across a one piece seal block that has stepped lifter bores in it? the top 3/16 or so of the bore is about 1/8" bigger in diameter. when you try to put a high lift cam in it the lifter comes up out of the normal bore diameter enough that it causes a major oil leak and will not work correctly. was this done on purpose at the factory and if so why.
Can you send me a picture?
Pcperformance1@outlook.com
I build these for a living and I had one in the 90s that customer had and wanted a roller cam in it. The oil pressure was extremely low and couldn’t figure it out. I ran without a valve cover and noticed major oil splash coming from underneath through pushrod holes. Yanked intake and figured out oil bands in lifters were exposed in the wider part of lifter bore and exposing the oil gallery. I had to have another block machined and cured problem.
Ive got a 95 tahoe with the 5.7. If I got a 1 piece block ( I know from when I had the trans rebuilt ) can I replace the pan seal? I've got a slow leak coming from the pan gasket. I had the rear main replace when the trans was rebuilt. Just don't know if its too much of a hassle to deal with it now vs when I replace the engine down the line. Its got 150k and lifter tick so its kinda iffy.
Yeah you can replace the pan seal but its abit of a job.
You will have a drop down the front diff (if its 4wd) and jack up the motor abit and if i remember correctly the exhauat is in the way too
@@cuttersperformance well knowing all that I might just wait to replace the block. Lol. I know I won't have to worry about the exhaust since I went true dual straights and it doesn't come near the pan anymore. Would just suck to find out its a four bolt main and put in a two bolt block block. Lol. Might have to use my bore scope the next oil change and try and find out. The previous owner claimed it was a four bolt main but I have my doubts. Lol. Thanks for the response and keep up the videos! I love watching them!
Kind sir, the coolant passage vortec vs old school , it's important.
With the first run of 1pc RMS. Do you prefer to run the 638 or 148? The 148 has 638 cast into the base webbing, and seems identical, but the oil gallery has less and smaller gussets. Which do you prefer?
I have never been able to get my hands on a early 148 block so I can't say for sure.
But the best blocks are usually the 638 4 bolt mains. Or you can take a good casted 638 from a f body and make it a 4 bolt with sprayed caps
1 piece is rear external balance, what do you think about that , are you better to use the 2 piece adapter
Personally, I have never had an issue will the rear external balance with stout street/strip stuff
i have a 880 2 bolts and this video very helpfull thank you
Good video 👍🏻🇦🇺
Had a rear main leak after my 2piece 355 build. Got an offset rear main. rtv’d the cap n block registers, seal ends and outer part of seal (where it’s housed in the block and the cap). Less leak, but still leaks🤦♂️. Any suggestions?
Offset seals a good start cause oftentimes the crank gets worn where the seal rides.
Do you offset the seal in the cap so it doesn't line up the the mating surface of the block?
Also how much RTV did you use? Too much might be causing you issues
@@cuttersperformance yeah. Offset the seals less than 1/4”. I put a dab of rtv on the ends and a very thin layer on the outer groove. However, i did get a light shaving basically around the entire top seal as I was sliding it between the crank and block.
@@soyramflero sounds like the seal might have been damaged on install
@@cuttersperformance your probably right. Was hoping the rtv would fill the gap
drain out the oil. then it won’t leak anymore. 😂
Is there any particular year or range of years or castings for a 1 pc seal, roller cam 350 blocks that are easiest or most sensible to build on, for street use, say 350-400hp target.
I'm thinking this might be the cheapest/easiest upgrade to the old 79 L82 smogbog engine (hft) in my Corvette. I'd love to throw a late model LS in it but I'm not tooled up for a big headachy retro-fab job like that.
87 to 95 (638) roller blocks are good, will have provisions for mechanical fuel pump 4 or 2 bolt mains are fine but should sonic test cylinder walls as some can be thin. Some will need the holes tapped for the lifter tray.
The 1996+ vortec 880 block are good aswell but they often won't have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. Two timing cover bolts may have to drilled/ tapped. Cylinder walls are often quite thick and usually have minimal Cylinder wear.
I've pushed both style blocks past 500hp
@@cuttersperformance Thank you sir. Greatly appreciated.
So, do all factory 350 1 piece rear main seal engines use a flex plate that has a weight welded onto it? I have a 1986 350 crate motor 10048971 that will be going into a 1979 pickup with a turbo 350 trans and stock torque converter and I'm trying to figure out what flex plate and harmonic dampener to use.
Yeah, the 1pc engines are considered externally balanced on the rear so the flex plate will have a weight on it.
Actually, funny story, I once had a c4 corvette at the shop that the customer just bought. This car didn't have the original engine, and it had a pretty intense engine vibration.
It took me a bit to figure out what was going on, but it turned out that when they swapped the engine, they dilled out the counter weight on the fly wheel.
The customer didn't really want to spend the money pulling the engine or transmission but wondered if there was a fix I could do to make it better.
Well, my redneck idea....I removed the starter and fill welded all spots that were drilled out in the flywheel.
Worked perfectly! Hahaha, it's been like that for 5+ years
2 piece flex plates have a larger bolt spacing mount pattern then a 1 piece seal, also no large weight. An exception could be an 400 sbc, not sure about their bolt spacing but they do have a weight.
I removed reluctor wheel ordered wrong balancer. What it is. 1/4 inch diff. Roughly?
I believe it's slightly under 1/4 inch. I tried to find one to meausre for you in my parts bin but didn't have one
@@cuttersperformance thanks man. I went ahead and ordered one. It'll be here today. I'm hoping to get this in the run stand tomorrow. It's sad we don't have any engine dynos here in North Carolina. Shit load of drive ons.
Can you just leave the wheel in there ?
Great video. I to like the late model blocks. Here's a question. Have you done a crank conversion. 2 piece to one piece block? I looked for a video. Couldn't find one. I think you need to make one. Thanks and holler back!!
No actually I haven't but I do have a 2pc forged block im considering using a 1pc block, so i may have to try
@@cuttersperformance
Did you mix up your words?
There are good things about both blocks. The 2 piece rear main seals are easier to change with the engine still in the truck or car, as long as you can get the pan off. The 2 piece rear main will not leak if it's installed properly, at least that's my experience. The later 1 piece blocks allow you to run a roller cam affordably.
The biggest difference is you probably won't need to change the seal if it is one piece. The two piece seal was notorious for leaks, which is why they went to a one piece. Blame the mechanic lol the one piece seal goes where it goes the two piece goes where it goes, the mechanic put it in wrong is a farce.
@@michaeldose2041 The 2 piece seal does not just "go where it goes". To install the 2 piece rear seal properly, you have to install the seals so the parting lines of the seal don't line up with the parting lines between the block and the rear main cap. Then, smear some Ultra Black RTV on the bottom of the main cap and the ends of the seals. I've been doing them this way for more than 20 years with no leaks. No seal lasts forever.
@@sbcperformance413 In other words it goes where it goes smear some goo on the end and she'l be leakin again in 10k guaran damn teeed.
Have you ever used them 2 piece adapters for a later block to accommodate a early crank? I want to build a 427 and cannot find a one piece 396 crank
They work great but only if you buy the adapter centering bar they sell that bolts in the rear cap to center the seal adapter in the same plane as the crank.
Strictly my opinion I prefer the one piece rms it has a thicker rear hub for mounting a flywheel or flex plate. Although it is easier to replace a two piece RMS you don't have to drop the transmission to do the job but if you don't do it right you're doing it twice also the one piece has better oil pan gaskets from the factory. You can get the same crank sizes for either but I always tell people use what came in your application unless you already have to buy a different flywheel for flex plate. I'm running an 86 trans am with a gmpp 350 1-piece rms, roller cam, vortec heads ported, stealth ram, and CX Racing single turbo with t-76. All backed by a T-56 and a 9-bolt with 3.70 gears.
Yeah i have an 880 block from a 2500 4x4. Its a 2 bolt main even though the casting number said 4 bolt main. I guess im not boosting it now.
Why not? Send it.
@@superduty4556 because i sold the engine and the wagon it was for for a datsun 😂😁
Splayed caps are stronger than a normal 4 bolt
Can you do a video on how to aline and set dowl pins for timing cover ?
Get as some proper pins and tap them in (with a hammer, not a thread tap) that easy...
Reuse reluctor wheel if reusing stock Vortec balancer. Thanks 😊
Wow very good information. So. Can i use a camshaft and lifters flat tapet from 350 old in vortec block. ?? Thanks alot
Yes you can use a flat tappet cam in a vortec block
@@cuttersperformance i like it. Thanks i will do good good information.
Never liked the thin cast 87’ up blocks.
Thickest cast Chevy v8s at that point was the 305.
I sonic test each one. I find the 638 blocks are all over the place for thickness/thin spots, but sometimes are the thickest and good blocks. The 880 blocks are abit more consistent. If they sonic test well, I've had no issues with them under the 500hp level
The black block is not a vortrc block. On the left side water pump holes has the vent hole which was eliminated on vortecs.
Thats true but often times they were drilled at the front by not all the way up into the head (there's no hole in the deck surface) that block is indeed a 880 vortec block
I have a Vortec I’m putting a double roller set on, will I need a different dampener?
Yeah as soon as you remove the reluctor ring off the crank (you will need to remove it when going double roller) then you will need a regular sbc balancer
What about using roller lifters with a flat tappet cam?
You definitely do not want to do that haha roller lifters with roller came
Agreed, try telling that to some of these mechanics lol, great vid btw 👊✌
@@roadkillsf.f.cgarage386 im going to make a note about that in the description just incase people miss understood haha Thanks man!
*Pertaining to MOST applications
1955-1986 sbc are all 2 piece remain seals. Hydraulic flat tappet cam engines using perimeter bolt valve covers.
1987+ are all 1 piece rear main seal, roller cam, center bolt valve covers.
*Now, with that said some of the early 88-"98" trucks, like '89 year models or so have been known to have left the factory with a flat tappet cam. I've never seen it myself but have heard it from a few who have no reason to lie
That is true, the tbi trucks 95 and earlier often times have a flat tappet cam. As mentioned in the video sometimes the holes are tapped for the roller lifter cage and sometimes not
Every '87 TBI engine we have are not roller cam. We have 2 sitting here and one we rebuilt in a Suburban. They have the provisions for the spider but are not drilled and tapped. And have flat tappet cams with center bolt covers.
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
Great content, keepem coming!!!
Thanks man! I appreciate the positive feedback
More videos coming
What's the casting numbers on those bl