If you don’t have a vice. Install it on the car without threading in the brake hoses, set it up as if you would bench bleed it normally, and use the pedal to actuate it
If the MC is slightly tipped in the car you likely will need to jack up the rear of he car to level out MC (or even take it to a slight downward angle), otherwise air bubbles will flow to the high point (which is why they are near impossible to get out if you don't bench bleed).
You bench bleed the master cylinder to get the air out of the master itself. Then when you attach it you will bleed the rest of the system lines to calipers
It seems everyone does it just a little different it says to slowly push piston in and slowly release piston and wait 10 to 15 seconds in-between pushing it also says to have one way valves installed in each line and use block off plugs
I have a 1994 Chevrolet Silverado, I recently did a full brake job on it, while doing all this I had a leaking MC changed it out to a newer one got mines on little shop mfg, of course I benched bleeded it, then I had an internal leak on my brake booster changed that out to a remanufactured one from O’Reilly and I had a stuck caliper on passenger side changed that one and changed the driver side cause why not, and next thing you know my brake pedal gets stuck halfway now pls help me out
If you got some use two pieces of copper on each side of the clamp in between the metal you’re holding and it won’t scratch your piece as deep if at all
Im probably missing something but how does air not get back in if you have to remove the rubber lines you used to bench bleed and tranfer to the car are those ports not open at that poin as in does it stay sealed as long as the piston is not compressed. I know its probably stupid question but hey we all need to be tought lmao.
"While pushing master cylinder in/out it'll get tight like the brake pedal"mine does not get tight does that mean my seals are not good, and need a new MC when i bench bled it,after pushing the air out, i notice the forward inlet hose would push fluid out faster than the rear ,is that normal
You should NOT feel a hard resistance while bench bleeding in this manner. You are not pushing against anything. You are simply pushing fluid through the tubes back into the reservoir.
@TheZaxx I have a 2nd gen Tacoma I replace the rotors I've bled brakes many times and bench bled, it still it feels spongy ,while driving if I don't step on brakes fr awhile then do step on it,it'll feel spongy,and with a heavy load I step on brakes itll go all the way to floor ,almost to a stop but not come to a complete stop it will slowly roll but if I pump brakes before hand it seems to work better does that mean I still have air in system I've check I have no leaks
@@WMAT77LL have you checked the brake booster and you will still need to bleed the system starting at the furthest line away from the master (back passenger) 2 people needed use the pump pump pump hold then open the bleeder pedal all the way to the floor close bleeder release pedal slowly and repeat
@@DIYKAI 2013 Hyundai ELANTRA GT manual clutch. I have a hose that goes into the clutch foot peddle area. If I take my master cylinder out with the hose, all the break fluid will pour out of the hose.
@@jaxonburt3670 its the same process as bleeding brakes- except you pump the clutch pedal and loosen the clutch slave cylinder located by the front motor mount instead of a brake slave cylinder. loosen the slave cylinder bleeder screw and let it all run dry. then disconnect the reservoir from the master cylinder and clean it out with brake cleaner because all that black crap rests in the bottom of that. theres still more in the line, so reattach the reservoir and fill it up. let it bleed all the way back down the line and proceed to pump and bleed the system.
@@jaxonburt3670 only let it run dry if your doing a complete fluid change (if it’s black or contaminated) if not just bleed from the bleeder screw need to have a helping hand….pump pump pump then hold clutch pedal all the way down….open bleeder while still pushing clutch pedal hold pedal down tighten bleeder release pedal and do it all over again until you get a firm pedal
@@MK-xn6qx no the object is to purge the master if all the fluid leaks out before you screw the lines then that person should not be a mechanic...lol.....after the master is in and lines are connected you purge the air from the lines like normal. If you try to put it on and fill it then bleed it's much harder to get all the air out of the master
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 totally false......after bench bleeding you would mount the master cylinder to the vehicle FULL when you remove the lines brake fluid will drop out.....you would have to work very very slow for all the fluid to come out of the reservoir
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 so explain how it leaking out would allow air to be drawn in? Gravity is a hell of a thing man.....look we been in the automotive game for well over 2 decades and NEVER had air get back into a master when attaching it......the only way that could happen is if ALL the fluid cam e out and that would take some time thus you would be moving like pond water and should not be touching anyone's vehicle. Thanks for your comment though! 🍻
It seems there’s conflicting opinions about how to do this.. You don’t HAVE to do it this way. You’re not fucked if you don’t. In my case, doing it on a BMW, space was a problem and it was very cramped.. It took me almost 30 minutes to get the brake lines lined up and everything in place and matched up.. Meanwhile, while you’re trying to fight getting the brake lines back on properly and get the thing bolted back onto the booster, brake fluid is just leaking out all through your engine bay and air getting back in.. I know why people do it this way, and if you’re doing it on a car where there’s tons of wiggle room and space, then sure, but not all cars give you that space to work and move and for me it was just easier, and cleaner, to mount it on dry and pump my brakes.
Not necessary, My master cylinder has a bleed screw, even if it has no bleed screw you can use the pipeline. when you remove the tubes all the brake fluid will come out.
@ idk all in from start to finish AFTER the master has been installed. It takes a few mins to set up the bleeder. Ours connects to all 4 wheel at once and connects to shop air and bleeds them all at once. Takes like 30 mins all in with cleaning up and doing ABS bleed if applicable. Our shop pays is 1.5 to bleed brakes.
@ idk all in from start to finish AFTER the master has been installed. It takes a few mins to set up the bleeder. Ours connects to all 4 wheel at once and connects to shop air and bleeds them all at once. Takes like 30 mins all in with cleaning up and doing ABS bleed if applicable. Our shop pays is 1.5 to bleed brakes.
@@DIYKAI I’ve used my $25 bleeder and my mightee vac (however you spell it) without issue. Been doing this almost 10 years and have only had issues when there was a brake line or caliper that was collapsed/seized. Maybe I’m just lucky lmao
Yea you can use clear tube but when you have been doing it over 20 years you can look into the top and see no bubbles and feel the resistance on the master
Thank u so much. Been trying to bleed my brakes for 4h now lol. I replaced hydroboost,mc snd fee lines because all that was broken. I installed everything. Would really hate to take mc back out. Do i have to. How much longer of regular bleeding will it take to make the brake work? F250 2002 7.3
If you don’t have a vice. Install it on the car without threading in the brake hoses, set it up as if you would bench bleed it normally, and use the pedal to actuate it
Absolutely can if you have room good tip!
Thank you fellas 🫡
If the MC is slightly tipped in the car you likely will need to jack up the rear of he car to level out MC (or even take it to a slight downward angle), otherwise air bubbles will flow to the high point (which is why they are near impossible to get out if you don't bench bleed).
But don’t you still need to bleed it when you install it in the vihecle?
You bench bleed the master cylinder to get the air out of the master itself. Then when you attach it you will bleed the rest of the system lines to calipers
If you just slap it on their without bench bleeding it you will suck air the whole time
It seems everyone does it just a little different it says to slowly push piston in and slowly release piston and wait 10 to 15 seconds in-between pushing it also says to have one way valves installed in each line and use block off plugs
Yes that would be the ideal way. Many ways to skin this cat but the golden rule is don’t allow air to enter
@@DIYKAICommon sense, thanks 🙏
I have a 1994 Chevrolet Silverado, I recently did a full brake job on it, while doing all this I had a leaking MC changed it out to a newer one got mines on little shop mfg, of course I benched bleeded it, then I had an internal leak on my brake booster changed that out to a remanufactured one from O’Reilly and I had a stuck caliper on passenger side changed that one and changed the driver side cause why not, and next thing you know my brake pedal gets stuck halfway now pls help me out
How do the rear wheel cylinders look?
@@DIYKAI they are brand new replaced everything from the rear brakes, the hardware as well
Do u have to bleed the brakes after installing it
Yes
If you got some use two pieces of copper on each side of the clamp in between the metal you’re holding and it won’t scratch your piece as deep if at all
Yes your are correct or brass
Im probably missing something but how does air not get back in if you have to remove the rubber lines you used to bench bleed and tranfer to the car are those ports not open at that poin as in does it stay sealed as long as the piston is not compressed. I know its probably stupid question but hey we all need to be tought lmao.
Check our other video out it explains it
I just put it on the car. Open the brake lines with someone pressing the brakes seams to work fine
Facts!!!
"While pushing master cylinder in/out it'll get tight like the brake pedal"mine does not get tight does that mean my seals are not good, and need a new MC when i bench bled it,after pushing the air out, i notice the forward inlet hose would push fluid out faster than the rear ,is that normal
Yes the front brake are normally larger and need more fluid to push the pistons than the rear
You should NOT feel a hard resistance while bench bleeding in this manner. You are not pushing against anything. You are simply pushing fluid through the tubes back into the reservoir.
@@TheZaxx correct but you will have increased resistance
@TheZaxx I have a 2nd gen Tacoma I replace the rotors I've bled brakes many times and bench bled, it still it feels spongy ,while driving if I don't step on brakes fr awhile then do step on it,it'll feel spongy,and with a heavy load I step on brakes itll go all the way to floor ,almost to a stop but not come to a complete stop it will slowly roll but if I pump brakes before hand it seems to work better does that mean I still have air in system I've check I have no leaks
@@WMAT77LL have you checked the brake booster and you will still need to bleed the system starting at the furthest line away from the master
(back passenger) 2 people needed use the pump pump pump hold then open the bleeder pedal all the way to the floor close bleeder release pedal slowly and repeat
Good luck installing it without the fluid leaking out.
Hundreds installed no issues some very little fluid leaks unless you move like molasses
They usually come with plastic plugs you can insert while you put it back on the vehicle.
Mine has a hose coming out and going to the clutch. What do I do with the hose?
Not sure exactly what your asking?? what type of vehicle?
@@DIYKAI 2013 Hyundai ELANTRA GT manual clutch. I have a hose that goes into the clutch foot peddle area. If I take my master cylinder out with the hose, all the break fluid will pour out of the hose.
@@jaxonburt3670
its the same process as bleeding brakes- except you pump the clutch pedal and loosen the clutch slave cylinder located by the front motor mount instead of a brake slave cylinder.
loosen the slave cylinder bleeder screw and let it all run dry. then disconnect the reservoir from the master cylinder and clean it out with brake cleaner because all that black crap rests in the bottom of that. theres still more in the line, so reattach the reservoir and fill it up. let it bleed all the way back down the line and proceed to pump and bleed the system.
@@jaxonburt3670 unfortunately they share the same circuit so you would bleed from the space cylinder it should have a bleeder valve on it
@@jaxonburt3670 only let it run dry if your doing a complete fluid change (if it’s black or contaminated) if not just bleed from the bleeder screw need to have a helping hand….pump pump pump then hold clutch pedal all the way down….open bleeder while still pushing clutch pedal hold pedal down tighten bleeder release pedal and do it all over again until you get a firm pedal
Where did you get the hoses and fittings?
Auto parts store or we have a link for Amazon in the description
@@DIYKAI thanks!
@@GeorgeNadaYT your welcome
Instructions unclear, had to go to the ER half naked...
Hopefully they prescribed the right instructions....
I would prefer to do it with clear hoses so you can see if there is any bubbles left
True
you wont see the bubbles inside of the actual piston which is where they hide tho.... so that doesn't actually matter.
Why wouldn’t you be able to do it on the booster with those fittings?
much easier off the vehicle…..usually the booster will fight you and it’s harder but can be done
or you can bleed it by the brake lines that are connected to the master cylinder like if would bleed it by the calipers
That will not work you must bench bleed any master cylinder
Wouldn't air enter when you install the "actual" lines? Seems redundant. Install the cylinder and bleed the brakes
@@MK-xn6qx no the object is to purge the master if all the fluid leaks out before you screw the lines then that person should not be a mechanic...lol.....after the master is in and lines are connected you purge the air from the lines like normal.
If you try to put it on and fill it then bleed it's much harder to get all the air out of the master
wont it leak out when you take the 2 lines out, to then put real lines back in?
Yes very little and work as quickly as you can too hook the lines back up then bleed as normal
Yes it will leak out and air will get back in and you are back to square one.
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 totally false......after bench bleeding you would mount the master cylinder to the vehicle FULL when you remove the lines brake fluid will drop out.....you would have to work very very slow for all the fluid to come out of the reservoir
@@DIYKAI I didn't say all the fluid would come out of the reservoir did I?
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 so explain how it leaking out would allow air to be drawn in? Gravity is a hell of a thing man.....look we been in the automotive game for well over 2 decades and NEVER had air get back into a master when attaching it......the only way that could happen is if ALL the fluid cam e out and that would take some time thus you would be moving like pond water and should not be touching anyone's vehicle.
Thanks for your comment though!
🍻
Great video thank you buddy
your welcome
What if you have a four port master cylinder?
2 ports are return and 2 are feeds same process block 2 holes and bleed from the others
@@DIYKAI
So, do I just plug two on one side while going through the process?
Yes you will have to do one side at a time
Unfortunately quad port masters are not the funnest to bleed
@@DIYKAI
Thank you very much for your time!
Great job!
Thanks
Do you have to bleed that before putting it on the vehicle?
Yes otherwise you will fight yourself trying to bleed it while on the car… it can be done on the car but it’s much more difficult
Dont work on all cars. Toyota have a hard line, a rubber hose, and then a hard line. Which can only really be installed piece by piece by the design.
It seems there’s conflicting opinions about how to do this.. You don’t HAVE to do it this way. You’re not fucked if you don’t. In my case, doing it on a BMW, space was a problem and it was very cramped.. It took me almost 30 minutes to get the brake lines lined up and everything in place and matched up.. Meanwhile, while you’re trying to fight getting the brake lines back on properly and get the thing bolted back onto the booster, brake fluid is just leaking out all through your engine bay and air getting back in.. I know why people do it this way, and if you’re doing it on a car where there’s tons of wiggle room and space, then sure, but not all cars give you that space to work and move and for me it was just easier, and cleaner, to mount it on dry and pump my brakes.
Yes that will work also but takes longer
What are the fittings called
Brake master cylinder hose adapters for bleeding
link is in the description
Does this work the same for the clutch?
It all depends on the vehicle some clutch master cylinder’s have to be gravity bled or air bled. What type of vehicle?
@@DIYKAIford ranger
@@JoeRoberts-r1y no chevy
Not necessary, My master cylinder has a bleed screw, even if it has no bleed screw you can use the pipeline. when you remove the tubes all the brake fluid will come out.
@@Nick41622 many different masters most can be done this way though
One important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
Yes 🙌. But unfortunately like all sinners I have drifted away from for him for a long time. I am now finding my way back!
👍👍👍👍
You can just bolt it on then bleed it if you don't have a vice....i did that in my jeep and RV
That's a way also
Never bench bled one and I’ve never had an issue🤷🏼♂️
Consider yourself lucky then….also how long did it take you to bleed the system….only takes about a minute a caliper when bench bled
@ idk all in from start to finish AFTER the master has been installed. It takes a few mins to set up the bleeder. Ours connects to all 4 wheel at once and connects to shop air and bleeds them all at once. Takes like 30 mins all in with cleaning up and doing ABS bleed if applicable. Our shop pays is 1.5 to bleed brakes.
@ idk all in from start to finish AFTER the master has been installed. It takes a few mins to set up the bleeder. Ours connects to all 4 wheel at once and connects to shop air and bleeds them all at once. Takes like 30 mins all in with cleaning up and doing ABS bleed if applicable. Our shop pays is 1.5 to bleed brakes.
@@OHHyaKnow ah that's the key power bleeder if you were not using that you would have an issue lol
@@DIYKAI I’ve used my $25 bleeder and my mightee vac (however you spell it) without issue. Been doing this almost 10 years and have only had issues when there was a brake line or caliper that was collapsed/seized. Maybe I’m just lucky lmao
Good Job ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Ty
yea and i bet you bought 2 of that specific brake bleed kit cause the fuckers only put 1 of the fitting that you need...
lol actually this one had all the fittings, but I have seen that before
All I saw was a ton of micro bubbles
On the car works fine
Right but show me reconnecting it
You would bolt it up and swap the lines on quickly then you would bleed as normal
I stopped watching the 5 second video as soon as i saw him using black tubes instead of clear tubes so you can see the bubbles.
Yea you can use clear tube but when you have been doing it over 20 years you can look into the top and see no bubbles and feel the resistance on the master
Yes daddyyyyy
I need the fittings man
this is what you need :
amzn.to/42qJiOq
@@DIYKAI thanks for your help . Found one locally at advanced.. called the
doorman - help master cylinder bleeder
@@DIYKAI same product just in store for 12$ more
Awesome glad you found a set
Thank u so much. Been trying to bleed my brakes for 4h now lol. I replaced hydroboost,mc snd fee lines because all that was broken. I installed everything. Would really hate to take mc back out. Do i have to. How much longer of regular bleeding will it take to make the brake work? F250 2002 7.3
100% correct. If you want your new master cylinder to leak after installing it, this is the best way.
just an update the master is still working 100% NO LEAKS 😀
@@DIYKAITrolling