This is the way I've always done it. It's unfortunate that so many online repair sites tell you that you MUST have a vice to bench-bleed the master; you just showed how to do it on the car the right way. Very informative video, well done
Excellent instructional video. Great lighting, angles, audio and video quality. Clear, easy to understand instructions. Perfectly explained what tools/items were needed to complete the task. Great job, please keep making more videos like this.
Video could have been 12 minutes shorter. Stick to the title of the vid. Bleeding starts 12+ minutes into the video. Not talking junk just stating my opinion from a viewer
Good video but have to agree with you. Could have been 12 minutes shorter. Stick to bleeding not installing. Have replaced many, many, MANY brakes in my day. My humble opinion….stick it in a vice and bench bleed it.
Found no other video that shows this could be done, having the same problem, air in the master cylinder from a broken caliber after it ran dry, going to try this car on method to see if the pedal comes back before declaring the master cylinder dead. Thank you, subbed for the help.
No reason why it cant be done,ive done it both ways,heck id rather do it in the car,let the brake pedal do the work,some lucky guys get by where they dont even bleed it, bench or other wise and rock hard pedal, go figure, did you ever figure out your problem?
Thank you for the video!!! Damn you saved me money and time! Got my bleeder kit from O’Reillys, C/O the cylinder , bled the cylinder in place , than bled all four brakes ! Now I must apply at Midas I am now a brake master 😅. Thanks. Great video!
very good - clear and informative, and saved me having to buy a bench (and vise) in order to bench bleed the MC. now I'm on to bleeding the ABS pump. many thanks
there was fluid dripping from back right side of the master cylinder towards the power booster while you were pumping the brakes to bleed the master cylinder. Did you have a leak or was it from the plastic bleeder nut things not getting a good seal?
I have a 1991 Buick Century that I am doing this on. I asked a friend about bleeding it on the car and he suggested using a separate bottle to put the hoses in. But it was just filling the other bottle with fluid. This is my first time doing this. So now I have questions. Do I have to have a fitting and hose for all 4 ports ?? What are those smaller pieces in the kit that look like the hose goes on them ?? And there's T's ?? I'm also wondering if those T's and small extra pieces are used on GM cars or other cars with the same design master cylinder.
I watch this video to see how you would reconnect brake lines because I'm sure you going to lose fluid or something and I was wondering how you get the air out after that but you stop before you did that
When i replaced my master cylinder today I was scared I'd have to perform a "bench bleed" I always read about. But all I did was continue to do what I always do. I have a bottle and a plastic tube I attach the the bleeder screw and gravity bleed about 24 ounces of brake fluid through it. By the end, the pedal is still not perfect, but it improves and gets firmer over a couple of days of driving.
So does the brake fluid not leak every where when you unplug the plastic caps and rubber hose? Surely you can't do it empty otherwise what was the whole point. I'm a missing something?
I replaced a brake master cylinder.....but it never had a shaft sticking out like yours??? I have a 1998 buick lasabre with sinking pedal....no pressure!
The same thing confused me for my Tacoma. I wound up getting a Dorman Master cylinder bleeder kit from Advanced auto parts that had metric and standard fittings in pairs. It was about $17. Autozone has that kit in stock too for about the same.
my friend helped install master cylinder today we only bled all 4 tires is that equal to this or should this have been done do i need to undo brake lines a little n squirt some or was the four tire bleeding suffice i feel like im not braking the same as before the new MC...i feel like the rears only lightly brake?
You'd get air either way. There's probably less time for air to get in doing what he shows here. I will be changing my 10th Master cylinder (at least) and I will do it this way for the first time on a 97 TJ.
Good video. My only concern is that during the entire first round of bleeding, (as soon as the fluid level dropped a bit) the end of the hose that was supposed to be down in the fluid was up against the top of the reservoir. As soon as the level went down it was just pulling air back in. The second round did bleed it but I would have done it longer since it looked like air was still purging. You may have just edited it to shorten it up. Any way, thank you. Sorry to be a critic but its the internet. lol
@@zoe7374 if you mean how does it not just come out of the MC after you remove the plastic fittings and tubes, the fluid only gets pushed out by pushing the brake pedal. If you don't push the pedal while you screw the hard lines back in, there is no fluid coming out (maybe a drop). If you do push the pedal while the hard lines are off, then you'd probably need to rebleed the master.
I didn't have a vice. Struggled so I think I didn't bled all the air. My brakes don't work. I am going to try to bleed it on the vehicle now. I have the tubes. One kept coming off. So I pushed it slower and less. When I bled the rear brakes nothing came out. Most fluid came from the left front. I mistakenly bled the left front first at the end. Going to start again. 1999 Dodge Durango.
Thank you. When bleeding I really didn’t notice a difference because there isn’t any resistance or compression occurring. After bleeding and the system is sealed with bleeders tight I was able to tell because you can’t compress fluid and the pedal would be solid. If any air remains in the system the air can be compressed and the pedal will be spongy.
@@how2af263 Hello my car is 1993 Ford Taurus V6 3L and my master cylinder have 4 ports (4 brake lines) do I do the same things you did with the plastic hose,,but in my case i need to put 4 hoses instate of 2 like you? and how long estimate can take thank you
When I bought my new brake master cylinder before another front line ruptured and leaked.....my new master cylinder did not have a shaft sticking out like yours??
This is a great video on how to fill the cylinder piston with fluid and void the air pockets. As for the residual air concerns, I believe the air pockets will only be at the outer most points of the the cylinder leading into the tubing going to the calipers. At this point, I wouldn’t pump the brake pedal without forcing fluid down the “now connected” brake line sending the trapped air with it, because upon release of that pedal there may be a slight chance of drawing the pocket back deeper into the cylinder space trapping it is my guess. I’m not completely sure as I’m assuming this isn’t like a one way valve rather like a syringe. If it is like a one way valve, then no worries at all. So I would just ensure the caliper bleed port was open on the initial press, and closed before the release. And do that a couple times to shoot the air further down the line without concern of those last air bubbles working backward toward the cylinder where they may be trapped without internally cycling the fluid without the lines attached as in the beginning.
Sounds like you have done this before. It worked out I connected the lines. I started bleeding the line using gravity. Once I had the air out. I pumped and pumped it up. I followed it up with 2 person bleeding all the lines. Thank you for sharing!
Is the line you're referring to gravity bleeding the one closest to your master cylinder@@how2af263? Only after that do you start to bleed them all in the normal sequence ?
Should have had like a little pan to catch the fluid in the line dripping, less mess but effective way of bleeding so you don't over extend the piston rod i guess.
Bleeding the master cyclinder when installed on the car INCREASES the chance of having air bubbles, compared to bench bleeding. Again, not saying it's not possible to remove all the air but it's less likely than when you bench bleed.
Not challenging you, but generally curious as to why? I can't see any difference between doing it like this on the car and doing it off the car in a vice. In both cases the brake lines are disconnected, you bleed the MC, then connect the lines. With the MC off the car, you have to maneuver it back onto the car, which would seem to me to increase the chance of getting air into it. Thanks.
@@Cavallino69 the thought is the MC on a bench is leveled and thus no "high spots" can occur which may trap air. How likely this happens, idk but it's taught at trade schools and ASE training, it MAY have been a issue before
Compress pedal all the way and wedge a board between pedal and seats. Then reconnect the brake lines to the MC and that will keep it from gulping air back in
Is it possible to have all air out of the lines and still no brake pressure if there is air in the master cylinder. I forgot to bleed the master after putting on a new one and bled all the lines but still no pressure.
I would bet you could still bleed the master as it was done here to ensure there is no air in it. Once you are done there you could re-bleed the brakes themselves if you still don't get a solid pedal.
I love how no one in these videos tell the audience your gonna spend 25-30 minutes pushing the pedal. Fast quick pumps make it longer process. Slow steady pumps hets more air out at once
This process I used is only for removing air or any other unwanted contaminants from the brake fluid within the master cylinder. After I removed the plastic plugs I then bleed all of the brake lines removing the air bubbles.
While this is truly not a bad idea, it doesn't really matter. Even if air is trapped inside the tubing, it won't affect the success of the bleed. All that matters is that there isn't air in the cylinder. Bleeding the rubes comes later.
another thing that I dont understand is: if the mastr cyl is not pre bled what happens...isnt the air going to bleed out anyway if the mastr is connected and bled without a prebleed....no one ever covers that specifically
You could either pinch off the lines, or what I would do is take the end of the tubing that was inside the reservoir, and I would gently tip it until it's below the master and point it into a container. That way when you disconnect, fluid is caught in the container.
Have the same question. I may need to replace my MC and was wondering what's the difference between bleeding it this way installed and on the bench. My only guess is maybe you can push the plunger in deeper on the bench?
It's easier to bench bleed in a workshop with one person, you can see the air bubbles and don't need to lean over the edge of the car (which can be difficult on larger vehicles). If you have a bench vice handy it really doesn't take much if any extra time to do it on a bench. You can also angle the master back and forward which can assist.
He neglects to mention once done you will introduce air in the lines when you remove the plugs and connect the lines. You will have to bleed the system from the lines under the vehicle.
IF you can get to the fittings on the booster... no bench bleeding. You can use the fittings as bleeder valves. With them snug, have someone pump up the brakes and while they hold it, crack open the fitting on the front, the air will come out. Snug it. Have them let off the pedal. Fluid will be pulled out of the reservoir. Do both ports. Then bleed the calipers and wheel cylinder as usual.
No, you saw one way, there are many methods. Watch at least five more videos on this exact subject and you will see a vast difference in peoples approach to this.
locking it in a vise can be risky too...if you squeeze too hard...you may have to order another master cyl......the next time I replace a mstr cyl Il try onthecar method!!!
Greg Brooks Yea, submerging them will stop air from getting in when you lift off the brake pedal or when doing it in a vice when the plunger comes back out when using a screw driver.
Didn't that kit come with two one way valves to put on the tube end to insure no air coming back into tube? I find that most kits do not have fittings in pairs! Only one of each. If you have identical size of output you will only have half of what you need.
Ok so a lot has been said here and great video. I do have a question tho. How come EVERYONE talks about a BENCH BLEED when all you have to do is leave it on and do the same thing with the peddle? Seems a lot easier. Am I missing something? Thanks
You can bench bleed a new master cylinder before putting it on your car, which is a lot easier if you have the space and tools. So instead of being leaned over your car and running back and forth to check the fluid level you can sit at your bench and bleed it in half the time. Then just take it over and install it.
I need some help ASAP. I am changing a master cylinder on my 2001 Infiniti I30t. I don’t have a garage and no bench. How can I bleed my brakes, or can I take it to my mechanic and have him do it? Or can I do it myself?
I didn't do this just bled after fitting got a rock hard pedal but it didn't cure the problem I replaced the master cylinder for in the first place , poor rear drum brake effort In a diagonally split dual circuit
The front of the booster was filthy, it would have only taken one minute to clean it off,(even a little). Why do all that work, and install a brand new part, only to leave highly corrosive fluid behind?
as long as you have bled the air from the cylinder, and your reservoir is full, it doesn't matter if it leaks after you remove the bleeder kit. air is not being introduced into the system, fluid is being released. Don't pump the cylinder until it's installed, and new lines are reinstalled. you always bleed the system after replacing master cylinder. it's important there's no air in the master before installing, thus this procedure.
Thats not correct. If your bleeder kit tubes were clear you would see the air bubbles going back an forth but not being eliminated this way. Everytime you let up on the brake pedal air go's backwards back into the master cylinder. It is better once the brake pedal is pressed down all the way to hold it down with a stick (or 2x4 or anything you'v got around that will hold the brake pedal down) between the seat and brake pedal to hold it down then you can remove the bleeder kit and attach the brake lines to the master cylinder without taking a gulp of air.
This is the way I've always done it. It's unfortunate that so many online repair sites tell you that you MUST have a vice to bench-bleed the master; you just showed how to do it on the car the right way. Very informative video, well done
I know, they make it seem like it's the only good way to bleed it. I will be doing this myself in about a week.
@youknowkbbabyNo---the brakes would be bad immediately without bleeding the master first
Bleeding starts at 12:50
Lol
Thanks
DONT use a regular wrench! You need to use a FLARE WRENCH!
Lol thanks for this
some heroes dont need capes!
Remember to do this in your friends driveway it saves on clean up.
I like the way you think
Or on the side of the road by your house or apartment.
Like using your neighbor's wife?
😂
I did it at walmart
First timer - replaced the master cylinder on my TJ . Swapped in the new one, bled it and all 4 wheels in 90 minutes. Big thanks.
It took a while to find confirmation that you can indeed "bench bleed" after installing a new master cylinder. So, thank you for this.
Excellent instructional video. Great lighting, angles, audio and video quality. Clear, easy to understand instructions. Perfectly explained what tools/items were needed to complete the task. Great job, please keep making more videos like this.
Hello and thanks for sharing.
Video could have been 12 minutes shorter. Stick to the title of the vid. Bleeding starts 12+ minutes into the video. Not talking junk just stating my opinion from a viewer
Thanks bro saved me 12 minutes
Good video but have to agree with you. Could have been 12 minutes shorter. Stick to bleeding not installing. Have replaced many, many, MANY brakes in my day. My humble opinion….stick it in a vice and bench bleed it.
Thank you for showing I removed master cylinder there a lot break fluid inside booster need to change the booster?
I like how you don't talk it to death. Nice to just have a simple demonstration to watch with your guiding light.
Found no other video that shows this could be done, having the same problem, air in the master cylinder from a broken caliber after it ran dry, going to try this car on method to see if the pedal comes back before declaring the master cylinder dead. Thank you, subbed for the help.
No reason why it cant be done,ive done it both ways,heck id rather do it in the car,let the brake pedal do the work,some lucky guys get by where they dont even bleed it, bench or other wise and rock hard pedal, go figure, did you ever figure out your problem?
Was goin to remove my master cylinder, this video definitely saved me lots of time. Thankyou
GREAT AWESOME VERY INFORMATIVE....I learned this method in 1964 and GREAT to see it in a video today THANKS
I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for sharing.
Great video still not sure when you know all the air is out the MC? HELP
Thank you for the video!!! Damn you saved me money and time! Got my bleeder kit from O’Reillys, C/O the cylinder , bled the cylinder in place , than bled all four brakes ! Now I must apply at Midas I am now a brake master 😅. Thanks. Great video!
Great video! I am wondering if you still needed to pedal a little more because it looked like even at the last pump still air came out.
very good - clear and informative, and saved me having to buy a bench (and vise) in order to bench bleed the MC. now I'm on to bleeding the ABS pump. many thanks
I have the kit, wish they would ship with clear hose instead black hose. can't see air bubbles.good job.tu
They have them with clear hoses now. I just got one to bleed the master cylinder in my '91 Century.
Thanks
If I’m not getting any air out of 4 calipers, is that means there is no air In the master or master can still have it?
there was fluid dripping from back right side of the master cylinder towards the power booster while you were pumping the brakes to bleed the master cylinder. Did you have a leak or was it from the plastic bleeder nut things not getting a good seal?
I have a 1991 Buick Century that I am doing this on. I asked a friend about bleeding it on the car and he suggested using a separate bottle to put the hoses in. But it was just filling the other bottle with fluid. This is my first time doing this. So now I have questions. Do I have to have a fitting and hose for all 4 ports ?? What are those smaller pieces in the kit that look like the hose goes on them ?? And there's T's ?? I'm also wondering if those T's and small extra pieces are used on GM cars or other cars with the same design master cylinder.
I watch this video to see how you would reconnect brake lines because I'm sure you going to lose fluid or something and I was wondering how you get the air out after that but you stop before you did that
Hold pedal down with a board, wedged between pedal and seats. That will keep master cylinder from gulping air in again when reconnecting brake lines
When i replaced my master cylinder today I was scared I'd have to perform a "bench bleed" I always read about. But all I did was continue to do what I always do. I have a bottle and a plastic tube I attach the the bleeder screw and gravity bleed about 24 ounces of brake fluid through it. By the end, the pedal is still not perfect, but it improves and gets firmer over a couple of days of driving.
So does the brake fluid not leak every where when you unplug the plastic caps and rubber hose? Surely you can't do it empty otherwise what was the whole point. I'm a missing something?
thanks man havin a hell of a time havaen worked on brakes in 20 yrs
I’m glad you found it useful!
Good video, but how do you take the blue plugs out quick enough without letting the air back into the master cylinder?
Air won’t go back in (hypothetically speaking). Once you re-install the master cylinder…you’re gonna bleed at the individual wheels.
I replaced a brake master cylinder.....but it never had a shaft sticking out like yours??? I have a 1998 buick lasabre with sinking pedal....no pressure!
Would this be the same procedure for a clutch master cylinder?
My Que is do you have to turn on the vehicle?
So on a used one already on the car, cant i just pump brakes hold then crack the lines at the master cylinder?
Is it possible for a new master cylinder to go bad after a brake line leak?
Are the ports where you threaded the blue ports two different sizes? I am wondering this because the kit doesn't include two of the same size.
The same thing confused me for my Tacoma. I wound up getting a Dorman Master cylinder bleeder kit from Advanced auto parts that had metric and standard fittings in pairs. It was about $17. Autozone has that kit in stock too for about the same.
my friend helped install master cylinder today
we only bled all 4 tires
is that equal to this or should this have been done
do i need to undo brake lines a little n squirt some
or was the four tire bleeding suffice
i feel like im not braking the same as before the new MC...i feel like the rears only lightly brake?
Won't air go back in when you take off the bleeder kit screws, and install the actual brake Iines?
Yes there is air in the lines. This is to bleed a new master cylinder only.
You'd get air either way. There's probably less time for air to get in doing what he shows here. I will be changing my 10th Master cylinder (at least) and I will do it this way for the first time on a 97 TJ.
Good video. My only concern is that during the entire first round of bleeding, (as soon as the fluid level dropped a bit) the end of the hose that was supposed to be down in the fluid was up against the top of the reservoir. As soon as the level went down it was just pulling air back in. The second round did bleed it but I would have done it longer since it looked like air was still purging. You may have just edited it to shorten it up. Any way, thank you. Sorry to be a critic but its the internet. lol
When you remove the fittings at the end(before reconnecting the lines), does that not introduce air back into the MC? Thanks.
That's when you go and blead at the wheels
How does it all not just come out of the MC again. Does someone depress the pedal and hold it there
@@zoe7374 if you mean how does it not just come out of the MC after you remove the plastic fittings and tubes, the fluid only gets pushed out by pushing the brake pedal. If you don't push the pedal while you screw the hard lines back in, there is no fluid coming out (maybe a drop). If you do push the pedal while the hard lines are off, then you'd probably need to rebleed the master.
I didn't have a vice. Struggled so I think I didn't bled all the air. My brakes don't work. I am going to try to bleed it on the vehicle now. I have the tubes. One kept coming off. So I pushed it slower and less. When I bled the rear brakes nothing came out. Most fluid came from the left front. I mistakenly bled the left front first at the end. Going to start again. 1999 Dodge Durango.
Love the video!!!Very clear explanation. Im curious about the pedal feel difference to know when the air is completely out of the master cylinder
Thank you.
When bleeding I really didn’t notice a difference because there isn’t any resistance or compression occurring. After bleeding and the system is sealed with bleeders tight I was able to tell because you can’t compress fluid and the pedal would be solid. If any air remains in the system the air can be compressed and the pedal will be spongy.
@@how2af263
Hello
my car is 1993 Ford Taurus V6 3L and my master cylinder
have 4 ports (4 brake lines)
do I do the same things you did with the plastic hose,,but in my case i need to put 4 hoses instate of 2 like you?
and how long estimate can take
thank you
@@victorroff7003 yes exactly and 1.5-2hrs if you've worked on cars before.
Thanks! Nice video! I'll be replacing a master cylinder today but before I'm going to buy this kit
Awesome to hear! Thank you for watching.
When I bought my new brake master cylinder before another front line ruptured and leaked.....my new master cylinder did not have a shaft sticking out like yours??
This is a great video on how to fill the cylinder piston with fluid and void the air pockets. As for the residual air concerns, I believe the air pockets will only be at the outer most points of the the cylinder leading into the tubing going to the calipers. At this point, I wouldn’t pump the brake pedal without forcing fluid down the “now connected” brake line sending the trapped air with it, because upon release of that pedal there may be a slight chance of drawing the pocket back deeper into the cylinder space trapping it is my guess. I’m not completely sure as I’m assuming this isn’t like a one way valve rather like a syringe. If it is like a one way valve, then no worries at all. So I would just ensure the caliper bleed port was open on the initial press, and closed before the release. And do that a couple times to shoot the air further down the line without concern of those last air bubbles working backward toward the cylinder where they may be trapped without internally cycling the fluid without the lines attached as in the beginning.
Sounds like you have done this before. It worked out I connected the lines. I started bleeding the line using gravity. Once I had the air out. I pumped and pumped it up. I followed it up with 2 person bleeding all the lines. Thank you for sharing!
Is the line you're referring to gravity bleeding the one closest to your master cylinder@@how2af263? Only after that do you start to bleed them all in the normal sequence ?
Would have been nice to see the brake lines get reattached because I'm confused how air doesn't get introduced once you detach the bleeder kit
Is it safe for me to bleed the MC without bleeding the breaks?
Probably not. You should bleed the brakes after bleeding the MC.
GREAT GREAT helpful video THANK YOU . I'm on my way to my driveway !! Johnnie , NS Can.
Why not show the replacement of the brake line from the plastic. Wouldn't there be an outpour of fluid once you pull the blue bleeder screws out?
You are correct. The purpose is to bleed the internal air from the cylinder.
19:50 "Next step is to connect the brake lines?" Once you pull off the bleeder valve, doesn't air get in?
Yes, this is unavoidable. The next steps is to bleed the brake lines. This was only a tutorial on how to bench bleed the master.
Thats what I was thinking..
Should have had like a little pan to catch the fluid in the line dripping,
less mess but effective way of bleeding so you don't over extend the piston rod
i guess.
A towel would do the trick and be much easier to stuff in there.
Won't it create an air pocket when you take the blue plugs off and reconnect the brake lines?
Yes you are correct. After bleeding the master I bleed all brake lines.
Bleeding the master cyclinder when installed on the car INCREASES the chance of having air bubbles, compared to bench bleeding.
Again, not saying it's not possible to remove all the air but it's less likely than when you bench bleed.
Not challenging you, but generally curious as to why? I can't see any difference between doing it like this on the car and doing it off the car in a vice. In both cases the brake lines are disconnected, you bleed the MC, then connect the lines. With the MC off the car, you have to maneuver it back onto the car, which would seem to me to increase the chance of getting air into it. Thanks.
@@Cavallino69 the thought is the MC on a bench is leveled and thus no "high spots" can occur which may trap air. How likely this happens, idk but it's taught at trade schools and ASE training, it MAY have been a issue before
@@DapimpBDSD OK, that seems like a plausible reason. Thanks! Note I'm still too lazy to take mine off the car to do it ;)
@@DapimpBDSDDo you think that trying to level the master cylinder by elevating the back of the vehicle might work?
So what's leaking to the right of the camera? Looks like its leaking brake fluid out the back
I noticed that too.
So how do you connect back the lines without introducing air back into master cylinder? That is what I was waiting for
Compress pedal all the way and wedge a board between pedal and seats. Then reconnect the brake lines to the MC and that will keep it from gulping air back in
THANKS A LOT FOR THIS VIDEO... I JUST USED THIS PROCESS ON MY 1981 GMC CABALLERO... WORKED LIKE A CHARM...
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Nice work and great effort man 👍
Is it possible to have all air out of the lines and still no brake pressure if there is air in the master cylinder. I forgot to bleed the master after putting on a new one and bled all the lines but still no pressure.
I would bet you could still bleed the master as it was done here to ensure there is no air in it. Once you are done there you could re-bleed the brakes themselves if you still don't get a solid pedal.
@Greg I’m no expert, but I’m pretty sure if there’s air in the MC, then you will have spongy brakes.
I love how no one in these videos tell the audience your gonna spend 25-30 minutes pushing the pedal. Fast quick pumps make it longer process. Slow steady pumps hets more air out at once
Do you bleed it first before taking it out or what?
Bench bleeding is pointless right?
Great video. Thanks for posting this informative video.
Hello thanks for watching and the positive feedback! I enjoy making useful videos.
When you take those plastic plugs out, doesn't that just re-introduce air into the master cylinder again??
This process I used is only for removing air or any other unwanted contaminants from the brake fluid within the master cylinder. After I removed the plastic plugs I then bleed all of the brake lines removing the air bubbles.
can't see the air bubbles when inside the car pumping the brake pedal...
Leave your phone there to record while pumping the brake pedal, then get out and watch the video?
One of my break line fitting does not want to screw BACK in the other did now WHAT
good information. video could have been 10 minutes though. upvote from me.
Who in the world they have black tubing's instead of clear so you can see the bubbles.
Same exact thing I thought. I would like to be certain that I did it correctly
While this is truly not a bad idea, it doesn't really matter. Even if air is trapped inside the tubing, it won't affect the success of the bleed. All that matters is that there isn't air in the cylinder. Bleeding the rubes comes later.
Those are the hoses the bleeder kit comes with
u see the bubbles come out the hose when they hit the resvior moron
another thing that I dont understand is: if the mastr cyl is not pre bled what happens...isnt the air going to bleed out anyway if the mastr is connected and bled without a prebleed....no one ever covers that specifically
How do you remove those blue fittings to install the brake lines without brake fluid leaking everywhere?
Your going to have some loss of fluid from the priming line and fitting.
You could either pinch off the lines, or what I would do is take the end of the tubing that was inside the reservoir, and I would gently tip it until it's below the master and point it into a container. That way when you disconnect, fluid is caught in the container.
@@how2af263 is there going to be any loss out of the MC? I am about to install a new MC, hard lines, soft lines, and calipers.
If does slurping sound does it still have air in the system
He did a very good job hide nothing.
Why so many people use bench bleeding? Obviously your method is easier and I believe it should be as effective as bench bleeding?
Have the same question. I may need to replace my MC and was wondering what's the difference between bleeding it this way installed and on the bench. My only guess is maybe you can push the plunger in deeper on the bench?
Quang B no difference, it’s personal preference
It's easier to bench bleed in a workshop with one person, you can see the air bubbles and don't need to lean over the edge of the car (which can be difficult on larger vehicles). If you have a bench vice handy it really doesn't take much if any extra time to do it on a bench. You can also angle the master back and forward which can assist.
Bubbles getting sucked right back into the ports. I'm hoping it's only cause the fittings aren't tight enough
Great camera work. Thanks.
He neglects to mention once done you will introduce air in the lines when you remove the plugs and connect the lines. You will have to bleed the system from the lines under the vehicle.
if you look closely it dripping in the back of the master cylinder
Is he even gonna respond to that seems pretty serious. I didn’t notice till your comment. Then I was like damn!!
It's the detached brake line
Great video, clear and precise!
When I apply my foot to my break pedel it went all the way to the floor when I'm trying to stop what does that mean
it means you have air in your system. you must also bleed the brakes after replacing the master cylinder.
Do not forget to clean surface between master cylinder and booster
IF you can get to the fittings on the booster... no bench bleeding.
You can use the fittings as bleeder valves. With them snug, have someone pump up the brakes and while they hold it, crack open the fitting on the front, the air will come out. Snug it. Have them let off the pedal. Fluid will be pulled out of the reservoir. Do both ports.
Then bleed the calipers and wheel cylinder as usual.
Where and what exactly are the fittings on the booster?
Thanks! :)
Good video. Can see everything
Thanks 👍
It's too bad these hoses n the kit aren't clear so you can actually see if you got all the air out when bleeding the system.
Thanks my man , nice video. Found it helpful indeed!
Glad it helped!
Good video -very helpful ...thank you so much!
Keep up the good work👍😎
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Great video. Now I know how to install and bleed a brake master cylinder.
No, you saw one way, there are many methods. Watch at least five more videos on this exact subject and you will see a vast difference in peoples approach to this.
Was that a Toyota you were working on?
Hello yes you are correct it’s a Toyota Corolla.
I cant bleed off the wheels......Too tight I'll strip.....I have to bleed off the master cylinder... I have tried but failed!!
locking it in a vise can be risky too...if you squeeze too hard...you may have to order another master cyl......the next time I replace a mstr cyl Il try onthecar method!!!
Nice - thanks 👍😊
Do you have to keep the end of the hoses going into the master cylinder submerged in fluid or is this to keep the fluid from spilling.
Greg Brooks Yea, submerging them will stop air from getting in when you lift off the brake pedal or when doing it in a vice when the plunger comes back out when using a screw driver.
thank got my vw has bleed nipples on the master cylinder
Didn't that kit come with two one way valves to put on the tube end to insure no air coming back into tube? I find that most kits do not have fittings in pairs! Only one of each. If you have identical size of output you will only have half of what you need.
No one way valve in the kit.
Ok so a lot has been said here and great video. I do have a question tho. How come EVERYONE talks about a BENCH BLEED when all you have to do is leave it on and do the same thing with the peddle? Seems a lot easier. Am I missing something? Thanks
You can bench bleed a new master cylinder before putting it on your car, which is a lot easier if you have the space and tools. So instead of being leaned over your car and running back and forth to check the fluid level you can sit at your bench and bleed it in half the time. Then just take it over and install it.
10:05 Lol You know I thought that didn't seem right when it got pulled out, but I thought hey it's Chrysler, I'm not familiar with Chrysler.
Same, I thought “that’s one intricate electrical connection.” 😂
Scotty doesn’t specifically talk about bleeding the MC in his vids 🧐
I need some help ASAP. I am changing a master cylinder on my 2001 Infiniti I30t. I don’t have a garage and no bench. How can I bleed my brakes, or can I take it to my mechanic and have him do it? Or can I do it myself?
Hey beavis, try watching THIS video.... *doh.
@@hugh3rdof5 😂🤣
I didn't do this just bled after fitting got a rock hard pedal but it didn't cure the problem I replaced the master cylinder for in the first place , poor rear drum brake effort
In a diagonally split dual circuit
Great video
Thank you
This is confusing. I'll never try this. Where is the fluid with bubbles that is going to be disposed?🧐[2020]
Quoth the raven: "ON THE FLOOR!"
jk pal, the fluid comes out of the bleeder and back into the reservoir while the air bubbles rejoin nature.
The front of the booster was filthy, it would have only taken one minute to clean it off,(even a little). Why do all that work, and install a brand new part, only to leave highly corrosive fluid behind?
How u know the old cylinder was bad?
The old master cylinder wouldn’t hold pressure the pedal would sink to the floor.
Ok. Thanks.
You left out the most important part: how to remove the bleeder kit without allowing air back into the system.
That's the only reason I came to watch! nobody wants to show that part. Just go fast?
I believe that’s not possible...which is why you’re always supposed to bleed the brakes as well, after you do the MC bleeding.
as long as you have bled the air from the cylinder, and your reservoir is full, it doesn't matter if it leaks after you remove the bleeder kit. air is not being introduced into the system, fluid is being released. Don't pump the cylinder until it's installed, and new lines are reinstalled. you always bleed the system after replacing master cylinder. it's important there's no air in the master before installing, thus this procedure.
"That's no good" 😂 I died lol
Hello thanks for sharing!
Lol
Thats not correct. If your bleeder kit tubes were clear you would see the air bubbles going back an forth but not being eliminated this way. Everytime you let up on the brake pedal air go's backwards back into the master cylinder. It is better once the brake pedal is pressed down all the way to hold it down with a stick (or 2x4 or anything you'v got around that will hold the brake pedal down) between the seat and brake pedal to hold it down then you can remove the bleeder kit and attach the brake lines to the master cylinder without taking a gulp of air.