Thanks for requesting this one and please keep the terrific video ideas coming! Best regards, Todd EvapoRust: amzn.to/2YoIpa2 Molasses: amzn.to/2YqTCa1
I'm really surprised that no one ever mentions that you should mix some Baking soda and water together to rinse parts after to neutralize alot of these after using because it will continue to eat away if not.
Growing up in a farm community, we used to take a large plastic garbage can, fill it with water and 5 gallons of molasses. Which you got from the 10,000 gallon tank at the feed store, bring your on container, for about $3. We would just throw anything that needed rust removed in the can and fish it out a month later. When the molasses had finished its usefulness, it would get turned into the garden soil. 100% recycled. Cannot say one way or another if this was a good idea or a bad one, but you got to love the ingenuity and the practically.
Same here. I think the iron content in the soil might have increased, and any ph decrease of the soil was neutralized with the next fertilizer application.
I really appreciate how meticulous you are with making the tests a fair and level playing field. I don't think people in a laboratory environment could do a better job. Thank you for all your hard work.
@thekeyboard warrior to be fair; it's not too difficult to eliminate variables and make everything as even as reasonably possible... however; I cant praise him enough on his jigs and equipment. Everything is a weird blend of expertly crafted and "I found this behind behind my shed' that's simply fantastic... he clearly knows what hes doing both mechanically in building those things as well as scientifically/logically in fairly testing them in a matter that actually applies to the real world. Plus not taking sponsors... if I were him I'd be rolling in that GorrillaGlue money and already be onto the CrazyRussianHacker portion of my video career where I just make stuff up
I've been using Molasses for rust removal for more than 50 years. I learned this from my Grandfather. Its great to see a side-by-side comparison with other rust removal products.
@@daviddelle774 Yes, you have to dilute it. Project Farm used a good mix. I would use distilled water in my mix to reduce the added minerals, but not too critical.
This video brought back an old forgotten memory about what an old sage friend of mine had told me about many years ago. He was an expert in rebuilding and restorations of cars. Museum quality. To him though, they quit making "real cars" back in the 30's. He had told me about a guy who many years before had sealed up a service station pit and had filled it up with molasses. They would lower a whole car down into it and let it soak for a month or two. It striped the rust off of the entire car. Inside and out. Even places where blasting media couldn't reach such as inside of a box beam. He had mentioned that it only ate the rust and didn't harm any still perfectly good steel. I guess he was right. Thanks again for a great video. Keep up the good work.
Your video on evaporust saved me a good amount of $$$. I'm rebuilding the suspension of a 20 year old car, instead of buying new bolts, I soaked the old bolts in evaporust overnight, voila like brand new. Thanks!
Interesting fact that perked me up when I saw the metal flakes come out, one of the original black dyes found in history is a compound called "Vinagroon", and it was made by dissolving iron filings in vinegar. I'm involved in historical reenacting and have made it on quite a few occasions for recreation leather and textile work. Keep up the good work man! I love your channel
Put some iron filings on a pine board in the weather and look at the results. We learned this the hard way when a grinder was used at a building site of a kid cabin. Ughgg
Yeah, acid eats pretty much everything - not just rust. At work, I generally use electrolysis to remove rust from small, irreplaceable parts. Good video, though!!!
@@ProjectFarm The parts I've used electrolysis on were either very massive (Indian rear shock bodies) or non - structural (lamp bases, etc) so embrittlement was not a problem. I'm not sure where that might actually be an issue. While I haven't seen it yet, apparently on last season's Guild Garage, they showed me using the electrolysis method on a couple of parts. (I don't get Discovery Velocity) LOL!!
turco WO- 02 does not eat base metals. been dipping for years with good results. most of the time products made for the real commercial market are best
I use a mix of molasses, apple cider vinegar, ketchup, paprika, salt, pepper, and garlic and onion powder. But seriously my mind is blown that this works so well. Going in, I assumed he would show that it's malarkey.
Do I know why TH-cam recomended this channel to me? No Have I been absolutly loving this videos? Yes Am I the target audience? Who cares hahah Please keep going I love this!
LOL, same here. It was on the end card for a Garage54 vid, which I got to from an abandoned truck rescue vid, which came from an abandoned places vid, that came from a railfan vid, and who knows how it started. TH-cam is weird.
I read this on a car restoration forum, and thought you all might find it interesting: "What is happening with this is the mixture of Molasses and water ferments creating ethanol. As is known, ethanol creates havoc with anything of a ferrous nature if not highly diluted, i.e.; gas tanks, fuel lines, etc. So, it is logical that it will remove rust from parts over time. Doubtful if any paint would be removed from the mixture, but it should do a bang up job with surface rust on just about anything given sufficient time. Molasses also generally have a very high sulfur content which can also become acidic in nature under certain circumstances."
What a great comparison! I love seeing the weeks of progress in just a few minutes. I actually did a similar experiment trying to find something to remove hot rolled mill scale. I settled on muriatic acid because it was quickest, but like you said, it starts to eat the steel too if you leave it in too long.
if you have the time molasses is king a friend of mine put a 1927 Indian motorbike that he got out of a pond after 10 +years sitting there. He put the whole frame motor and transmission into a 55 gallon drum for 3 months when removed it looked like new and the mtor turned over and he could change gears and was able to disassemble like it was built yesterday
mmh did he need to do any mechanical cleaning and what was needed to restore the frame for instance? I'm thinking could this be used to clean whole car frame from rust, cause car size pool of evapo rust is bit on expensive side, while pool of molasses could be on price range of regular DIY guy.
I love your videos. Even though I'm not someone who deals with mechanical equipment of any kind, your series on synthetic oil was super interesting and made me really think twice about what oil to put into my car! My next oil will be some of that Amazon Basics
I have to say that the molasses works far better than anything I have tried if one has the time to wait for it. After I scrounged around for every rusty piece of tool, or kitchen gadgets, I kept the molasses mixture in a galvanized bucket for over a month and the other day I soaked something overnight and it removed the rust still. I just dumped it today and it had close to a quart of rust that fell off everything including the bucket. It only devours the rust and stops. I'm quite amazed at that one. I used oxolic acid quite a bit. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.
I was one of those viewers who suggested molasses in your 1st video. I was pleased to see you did this follow-up video and include molasses. I've used molasses several times on rusty tools. It's not fast, but I know I can safely leave the tool in the molasses for several weeks without any risk of removing good steel. It does a fantastic job and is the best choice if you are not in a hurry. You did an excellent job of comparison. It was a very fair test. Keep up the great work!
I have a teenage son who's able to help me during the summer and weekends during the winter. It helps a lot. I don't have any other help besides him and it is a challenge to keep up. Thanks again!
I have been using Molasses for years with great results. I buy mine from TSC hunting section. I mix my molasses @ 3 parts molasses to 1 part water ( warm only to aid mixing) this mix is economical plus woks even better. But keep it cover in the shop or the dog will try licking your rust removal solution !! THANKS Dan H
I've been using evaporust for a long time...way before Hand Tool Rescue made it look cool. Mostly in places that is difficult to reach with tools like inside fuel tanks. I also used it because it works fast. It is pretty neat to see some of the alternatives to it.
Been a few weeks since I caught one of your videos...now I've been binging cause of the no bullshit no holds barred reviews of what your testing...love it and thank you for your incredibly hard work and dedication to honesty.
Since watching your videos I've been using Muriatic acid, it has proven the best to completely remove rust. It's really corrosive and the fumes are extremely harsh and you need to refinish the surface right away, but there's simply nothing like it, and the steel is so well etched the primer and paint really sticks to it. It's fantastic for rehabilitating mechanical components and at $15 a gallon is very effective for the money, but you MUST work outside or in another well ventilated area AND cover the acid lest it rusts steel surfaces nearby! A work-around is to dip the steel in phosphoric acid ("naval jelly") or citric acid afterwards.
Wow extremely impressed with the molasses! the metal looks absolutely fresh off the assembly line. Very slow but would be great for delicate rust removal!
you can get a couple pounds of 99.9% pure oxalic acid off amazon for like 10 bucks. just mix like a couple scoops in water and soak. its 1-1.3 ph so very acidic but doesn't eat metal quickly. its the active ingredient in molasses.
Holy cow. I legitimately just was searching about some of these products(evapo rust) to take rust off some of my car parts. This is fantastic. Thank you!!
I'm a big fan and have recommended you as a go to channel on my Facebook page as well as in person. Ut I must confess that I had to keep rewinding to when you said the word "ruined" cause I love the way you say it. I'm embarrassed to say I had a girly moment. Your presentation is always great! We appreciate how you don't over explain and clip on at a steady pace. Some of these guys go like they're assuming the audience is lets say, slow. The intelligence you present in your videos as a whole clearly shows you respect ours, keep up the good work thanks!
I use Simple Green and also Dawn dish soap in my US cleaner and it works amazingly well. The Simple Green pretty much digests aluminum though so be careful.
The side with rust (positive terminal) is the anode. The cathode (negative terminal) can be anything you want as long as it conducts electricity because that's where the dissolved ions turn into solid metal.
@@shawn576 actually, you connect the rusted piece to the negative terminal, as ions flow from negative to positive. Your point stands though, it does not matter what you connect to the positive side, as long as it conducts electricity, as it won't have any effect on how the rust is removed.
This video is so well done.Full of info, and held my interest to the end. The Editing is so snappy and seemless. Molasses...makes nice rum,good for gardening, kitchen and workshop and cow feed.Top stuff.
@@ProjectFarm any sugar is a reducing substance. Corn syrup likely would work just like molasses. The honey has antibiotic properties though, so if there is a secondary biological thing that is going on with the molasses, it might inhibit it.
@@ProjectFarm I watch videos by a guy who does metal finishes on high end doors and things. The fumes from the muriatic acid rusted the metal he was storing in his shop
I am shocked. This is absolutely fascinating. I'd be willing to bet that this effect was discovered during the clean-up after the great molasses flood in Boston in 1919. I love this channel.
This was a great video. Thank you. But I think your graphs would be easier to understand if you kept the products in the same location on each graph rather than ordering them from largest result to smallest result. Also, a final multi bar graph at the end showing all results for all products side-by-side would be nice to see as well.
I don't know how I missed this video when it came out. So glad I watched it. Such great information in your videos. From the design of your experiments to the data collection and analysis, you're like a one man research lab! Thanks so much for the great content.
This video was linked in a Megan Thee Stallion and Beyonce video comment, I wasn't expecting this but I still finished this video and liked and subscribed, nice video it was informative. :)
Molasses is often recommended for vintage bicycle frames on the forums I am part of, cheap enough to use large amount to submerse the entire frame and does not remove the parent metal, but as you said, allow 3 weeks or so to get the right results... Thanks for doing this video!
What about whats the best and safest product for removing copper corrosion? You could just use pennies and show the detail up close to see if the copper itself is being removed too. Thanks for all the great videos!
Definitely surprised by the molasses, I never heard of that little trick, but now I know for the next rusty job. Evaporust honestly really is good, I've used it multiple times but seeing the comparison and little experiments showed it. Most stuff your going to be removing rust from is probably something that you aren't worried about losing paint or coating anyway so
@@ProjectFarm According to the Air Force, a properly crimped terminal will have less resistance than solder, and will stand up to at least as much pull as a solder joint. In fact, a pull test is required on each batch of wire/crimper-adjustment/terminal to the point of failure, with the wire breaking b4 a pull out of the crimp.
Rule of thumb.....it depends on the quality of connection you need. Crimping is quicker, and can be used in most situations. Some connections are more sensitive (certain audio, video, and controller connections) and should be soldered. This is from over 40 years experience in electronic repair.
Much respect to the military but a correctly soldered connection will make a more efficient connection. However crimping allows the mechanical connection to the sheathing which will allow for a better pull out resistance. Soldered connection is best by far along with some silicone and shrink tubing . When I'm goin to do a soldered connection I will secure the wires together by zip toeing the sheathing to sturdy locations.
Are your connections critical to operation? Is the resistance a factor? Is the signal a tiny current? Is vibration a concern? Is the connection subject to Hot/Cold/ moisture/cycling? In those situations, a PROPERLY made crimp is the way to go. Think about it. Solder, of any current blends, is still a higher resistance and is softer than the wire. Solder deteriorates over time, under the conditions given above. A crimp, properly made (tooling, adjustment, with a ratcheting, non-reversing ability, will crush the wires such that the total circular area is completely enclosed with no gaps. It becomes the equivalent of a solid wire, and any surface corrosion that exists on the wire becomes a small percentage of the total resistance presented to the connector. I agree that sometimes a solder connection is the only way to go. Some cheap PCB's have holes to solder wires to; some military connectors use solder to pins or sockets. But try to find a soldered connection in a high power (multi KVA's) connector. I guess a proper TEST might be a good idea here. I state all of this to show that a good test is not just solder something up and make it fail. This subject is fraught with controversy among engineers, so Project Farm may be a little out of his league on this one. No offense. It depends on what you want to test FOR.
seen videos and that is the bomb, wish i could afford the hardware, instant rust removal, no wire brushing, no soaking over night or up to 3 weeks. just amazing. :)
Thanks for the great test demonstration. I have the ultimate rust problem, which I am trying to solve with molasses. I have a boat with a raw water cooled engine, which was used in salt water for several years after I replaced the water cooled exhaust manifolds (big $). In 2000 I took the boat out of the water, and I thought I had treated/protected the manifolds. Fast forward to 2018. I finally get to work on the engine, and expected to find the manifolds in nice condition. Wrong, wrong, wrong. About $1500 worth of manifolds completely plugged with rust. Not even a hammer and chisel could penetrate some of the openings! But, I was determined to try to salvage the manifolds (I know, cough up the $1500...but, no, not me). I have tried Evaporust, Vinegar, and electrolysis. All made a slight but pretty minimal dent in the rust. After much research, I finally decided to go for the Molasses. Mixed up farm grade molasses in 20 gallon container, put in a pond pump to try to get into some of the cavities. Left the tub for about 2 months! Finally some progress. I think about 6 months or so in the summer with the pump running might do the trick. Molasses is extremely slow, but very safe for the metal, and extremely cheap. I would encourage you to try a very long term test on extremely rusted parts with internal passages...this is the ultimate test for salvaging either expensive or irreplaceable parts (read antiques). I have tried to research what museum restoration shops do/use, when say, trying to de rust something like the Monitor (Civil War submarine), but have not had much luck. At any rate, thanks for your great tests and demonstrations.
I used feed grade molasses and water to de rust a sickle bar for my garden tractor it took a month to clean it up but when it came out it was clean of rust and after washing was ready to be painted with primer
I met a couple of guys who restored vehicles. They would take engine heads etc and put them in a 44 gallon drum full. Diluted to about a 40 or 50:1 ratio. Came out like they were pretty near new.
Molasses is my go to for rust removal when I am restoring my old cars. A good suggestion after removing and washing down your posts is a spray and wipe down with phosphoric acid. This prevents flash rusting and phospatizes the metal. The metal will remain rust free and will have a gray etched finish perfect for paint.
I’m going to show this to the City! I want them to put molasses on the roads in the summer, it even matches the colour and it’ll clean the rust from the winter salt right off my car. It’s a sweet idea don’t you think?
@@pootispiker2866 Might not be as much of a problem if they are using it as a substitute for road salt (which they use in winter when pollinating insects tend to be inactive). Road salt also tends to be toxic to a lot of things (ergo salting the earth to deny one's enemy the ability of using farmland).
This was a very interesting video, I've never heard of molasses as a rust remover before. I wonder if other sugar syrups would work the same? What about if you don't dilute the molasses? What about other types of molasses? Anyway, I enjoy your work, thanks for doing what you do.
I pulled my great grandpa's post drill (human-powered drill press) out of my uncle's scrap pile several years ago. Just have to rig a tub to immerse it in, and head to an ag supply store for the molasses. Thanks for the info that will help restore this antique family heirloom!
Am I correct in that these were in solution for 3 weeks rather than the whole test taking 3 weeks to perform? I use a fairly concentrated acid in a coffee container and come back after 30 minutes. I think when you approach 3 weeks you have more than approached "buy a new damn bolt" territory of trouble.
This reminds me of the office episode when Kevin can do math really well when the units are pies rather than dollars. 432 pies/72=6 pies.. $432/72=??? The bolts are a stand in for any type of steel you want to remove rust from.
I appreciate that you follow a fairly good scientific method. In grade school I always thought that the ideal way to deliver a science project was via a video, but never had the means to effectively make a video presentation like this.
Well, I guess I know what I'll be using to clean the rust out of this old generator gas tank. After I shake some nuts and bolts around in it. Thanks for the vid.
I like the wheels on garden tractors done to perfection as much as possible. I use electrolysis first and it usually softens the paint that all gets removed with a poly abrasive brush from Harbor Freight. By that time, the surfaces are fairly shiny. Immediately after taking them out of solution, we pickle the steel with metal prep that is diluted and then rapidly rinsed and force dried to eliminate flash rust. They will be a light blue and it's fine to do this a few times. Sure beats sandblasting as the surface is pretty much bright steel. We spin the wheel on a garden tractor transmission and apply the primer from a spray gun. Super fast and accurate..Just have the transmission laying on its side and the rubber tire supports it. The differential let's the rotating tire spin. I once painted ,24 wheels in two hours and used glass beer bottles to hold them up inside the axle for drying
@Rick Simpson Yes coca cola with sugar dissolves rust in the same way as molasses where the main stock is about 60% sugar. A 60% sugar solution in water works equally well. Add some dish soap to the solution if it is to be used to loosen rust in threads. Unfortunately, sugar does not dissolve carbon so a solution of sugar will not loosen piston rings held in carbon.
@13:20 You're correct. Generally speaking, most white products (paints, dyes, etc.) use titanium dioxide as a pigment. Great video, I honestly did not expect molasses to remove any rust.
Surprising - guess I never gave molasses the time it needs. Good info, Another great informative Project Farm project! Thanks! PS - I think the Muriatic acid was neutralized by all the aluminum it dissolved. A periodic PH check with litmus paper would tell the tale and add useful data if you ever repeat this test.
Wish you'd included ultrasonic bath among the contestants (w and w/o additives). Please do an update including that. Also, a video testing the options for rust prevention on screws and bits after the rust is removed, and their longevity, would be great!
@@green_bay_cheesehead1248 the only dodge I have much experience with is a slightly rusty gutless wonder. If all dodge vehicles are like this I pity your family.
Great video and outstanding testing procedures Todd! You do an excellent job with your testing and setups, I'm more and more impressed each time you do something new!
One of the things I really like about this channel is the titles: "Is Molasses better than Evapo-Rust for rust removal." I didn't know you could even use molasses for rust removal. It would've never crossed my mind. Until today, if my wife had said "Honey, we need to remove the rust from the patio furniture," I would've never said "Have you tried molasses?"
You should try these tests with an agitator. Like something that shakes these glasses a little.. Still, Informative like usual. Although I simply won't use molasses for rust removal. 😂
Agitation will change the results here, but a test with agitation and ultrasonic cleaners would be enlightening. Most people won't have the time to agitate for 3 weeks.
After using vinegar for 12 to 24 hrs you have to wipe off the scale. Pure clean metal is underneath. It is very easy to wipe off or rinse off with water. Vinegar will dissolve galvanization too. It will dissolve aluminum as well if left for 48 hrs. You also need more vinegar, the more volume the more it will work.
Great review! Evap-o-rust in my experience, is the winner if time is important. Typically, it does it's thing within 1-3 days and is re-usable. Molasses is impressive though, even if it works slower.
Thanks for requesting this one and please keep the terrific video ideas coming! Best regards, Todd
EvapoRust: amzn.to/2YoIpa2
Molasses: amzn.to/2YqTCa1
That was surprising.
instaBlaster.
Vinegar actually creates rust .. just an FYI
I'm really surprised that no one ever mentions that you should mix some Baking soda and water together to rinse parts after to neutralize alot of these after using because it will continue to eat away if not.
Evaporust works better the warmer it is. I typically soak for 24 hours and the metal comes out perfectly
Growing up in a farm community, we used to take a large plastic garbage can, fill it with water and 5 gallons of molasses. Which you got from the 10,000 gallon tank at the feed store, bring your on container, for about $3. We would just throw anything that needed rust removed in the can and fish it out a month later. When the molasses had finished its usefulness, it would get turned into the garden soil. 100% recycled. Cannot say one way or another if this was a good idea or a bad one, but you got to love the ingenuity and the practically.
Great information. Thank you!
Awesome
There was a guy restoring a old car. He bought a small pool and filled it with molasses/ water.
The effect was amazing.
That is actually fascinating!
Same here. I think the iron content in the soil might have increased, and any ph decrease of the soil was neutralized with the next fertilizer application.
I put molasses on my flapjacks every morning and so far, no rust.
Thanks, Project Farm!
Thank you!
I put molasses on my flapjacks, but they just stood up and gnawed on my food. 🤣
I really appreciate how meticulous you are with making the tests a fair and level playing field. I don't think people in a laboratory environment could do a better job.
Thank you for all your hard work.
Thank you!
Yeah, last time I took a jug of molasses to a lab for a rust removal test, they just laughed at me. Farmers NOT!
@thekeyboard warrior to be fair; it's not too difficult to eliminate variables and make everything as even as reasonably possible... however; I cant praise him enough on his jigs and equipment. Everything is a weird blend of expertly crafted and "I found this behind behind my shed' that's simply fantastic... he clearly knows what hes doing both mechanically in building those things as well as scientifically/logically in fairly testing them in a matter that actually applies to the real world.
Plus not taking sponsors... if I were him I'd be rolling in that GorrillaGlue money and already be onto the CrazyRussianHacker portion of my video career where I just make stuff up
@@ProjectFarm for the painted ones. Were they completely painted or just one side? Maybe it peeled since it was able to make its way under.
I've been using Molasses for rust removal for more than 50 years. I learned this from my Grandfather. Its great to see a side-by-side comparison with other rust removal products.
Thats great!
Do you dilute it like he did here?
@@daviddelle774 Yes, you have to dilute it. Project Farm used a good mix. I would use distilled water in my mix to reduce the added minerals, but not too critical.
does it typically take 2-3wks for the molasses to act on the rust??
@@AN-kg4ei Yes. 2 to 3 weeks. 3 is better. You must be patient with Molasses.
You are a knowledge bank and a detail master. Keep it up mate
This video brought back an old forgotten memory about what an old sage friend of mine had told me about many years ago. He was an expert in rebuilding and restorations of cars. Museum quality. To him though, they quit making "real cars" back in the 30's. He had told me about a guy who many years before had sealed up a service station pit and had filled it up with molasses. They would lower a whole car down into it and let it soak for a month or two. It striped the rust off of the entire car. Inside and out. Even places where blasting media couldn't reach such as inside of a box beam. He had mentioned that it only ate the rust and didn't harm any still perfectly good steel. I guess he was right. Thanks again for a great video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Your video on evaporust saved me a good amount of $$$. I'm rebuilding the suspension of a 20 year old car, instead of buying new bolts, I soaked the old bolts in evaporust overnight, voila like brand new. Thanks!
Awesome!
Interesting fact that perked me up when I saw the metal flakes come out, one of the original black dyes found in history is a compound called "Vinagroon", and it was made by dissolving iron filings in vinegar. I'm involved in historical reenacting and have made it on quite a few occasions for recreation leather and textile work.
Keep up the good work man! I love your channel
Thanks, will do!
This is why I read comments. Thanks for the trivia!
I use that to "age" any individual fence boards I need to replace, so they don't stand out like a sore thumb.
Put some iron filings on a pine board in the weather and look at the results. We learned this the hard way when a grinder was used at a building site of a kid cabin. Ughgg
Thank you for the reminder!!♡ I need to dye a leather project and had totally forgotten about vinagroon♡
So molasses works... its just slow as, well, molasses.
Okay I'll see myself out.
Lol
LOL
Yup.
Jay Leno called and he wants his best joke back. That was very funny y'all!
AAron Smith ok,ok, just imagine all the chemicals in Jay Leno’s garage, I don’t think he uses vinegar or molasses to remove rust!
I love how you read the product's marketing angles like they are indisputable facts. Then...
Thank you.
I love this in every video, I look forward to it.
We're gonna test that!
Yeah, acid eats pretty much everything - not just rust. At work, I generally use electrolysis to remove rust from small, irreplaceable parts. Good video, though!!!
Great suggestion on electrolysis. I tested hydrolysis a while back and a few viewers mentioned that it makes metal brittle. Have you noticed this?
@@ProjectFarm The parts I've used electrolysis on were either very massive (Indian rear shock bodies) or non - structural (lamp bases, etc) so embrittlement was not a problem. I'm not sure where that might actually be an issue. While I haven't seen it yet, apparently on last season's Guild Garage, they showed me using the electrolysis method on a couple of parts. (I don't get Discovery Velocity) LOL!!
Also, molasses is my next "go to" for de-rusting delicate iron/steel parts.
turco WO- 02 does not eat base metals. been dipping for years with good results. most of the time products made for the real commercial market are best
@@kbjerke read this part skipped 27 min of video 👍
Safest: Molasses
Cheapest: White Vinegar
Strongest: Muriatic Acid
Optimal: Evapo-Rust
Trillon B
This is why I always look forward to your videos, always learning crazy old school ways of doing things. First time I heard of the molasses and water.
Thank you!
That was super awesome, I wonder what the chemical reaction is between the rust and the molasses?.
Thank you very much! Your recent video on the Indycar ride was amazing! Always look forward to your videos.
An other reply by PF said it was chelation.
Maybe Nile red can dig deep into the reaction?
Tastes better than the others
I use a mix of molasses, apple cider vinegar, ketchup, paprika, salt, pepper, and garlic and onion powder. But seriously my mind is blown that this works so well. Going in, I assumed he would show that it's malarkey.
Molasses been removing the rust from my wife's cooking for years.
lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Man , I once made a similar joke to my wife , what I got for return ? take a wild guess ! PS never again !
@@hermanchow1405 I would guess dinner wasn't so pleasant that night.. lmao
@@ixionn563 ha ha you are so kind !
This video is removing the rust out of my brain and it only took 17 minutes and 26 seconds. Thank you very much!
lol. Nice!
Do I know why TH-cam recomended this channel to me? No
Have I been absolutly loving this videos? Yes
Am I the target audience? Who cares hahah
Please keep going I love this!
Thank you very much!
LOL, same here. It was on the end card for a Garage54 vid, which I got to from an abandoned truck rescue vid, which came from an abandoned places vid, that came from a railfan vid, and who knows how it started. TH-cam is weird.
Wow! I'd never heard of this. I almost just bought some Evaporust recently. I'll be using molasses now. Thank you!
Great video Todd! I am very surprised by the molasses being so effective! I can't wait to try it myself. Thanks for your hard work!
Matt, Thank you very much! 3 weeks seems to be the right amount of time with periodic cleaning in between.
you can speed it by heating it, with something like a parts washer heater or fish tank heater
Would high fructose corn syrup work as well?
This is actually one of my favorite channels, because it feels friendly not lying or fake.
Thanks so much!
Note to self: if PF invites you over, bring your own beverages and do not let them out of your sight.
lol. Thank you!
hahaha
And hide your lawnmower lol
@Clayton Andrews
Unfortunately, the price of admission is one used-up Briggs&Stratton 450e, 500e, or 550e.
Beautiful!
The poor moles that had to sacrifice to make that large jug of molasses.
har har har........
🤓🤓
I wonder how many mole asses it took.
😂🤣😅🙉
What I want to know is what happens to the rest of the mole.
I read this on a car restoration forum, and thought you all might find it interesting:
"What is happening with this is the mixture of Molasses and water ferments creating ethanol. As is known, ethanol creates havoc with anything of a ferrous nature if not highly diluted, i.e.; gas tanks, fuel lines, etc. So, it is logical that it will remove rust from parts over time. Doubtful if any paint would be removed from the mixture, but it should do a bang up job with surface rust on just about anything given sufficient time.
Molasses also generally have a very high sulfur content which can also become acidic in nature under certain circumstances."
Thanks for sharing.
That weird moment when the "troll" suggestion wins the shootout.
Great point! I delayed this video for months since I didn't think it would work so well!
Or perceived troll comment.
Sugestion. Apply heat to evaporust and molasses while testing rust removal.
Thank you for the video idea!
This was so cool!! Saves more than three weeks of testing for the viewers. Also money and frustration.
Thanks!
What a great comparison! I love seeing the weeks of progress in just a few minutes. I actually did a similar experiment trying to find something to remove hot rolled mill scale. I settled on muriatic acid because it was quickest, but like you said, it starts to eat the steel too if you leave it in too long.
Thank you!
Ive used white vinegar for that several times.
You left out my favorite: phosphoric acid. It's the main ingredient in naval and aluminum jelly, metal prep for paints, and Coke!
Great suggestion! Thank you
My 9 year old kid was watching this carefully until the end. You should teach this in schools!
Thank you very much!
if you have the time molasses is king a friend of mine put a 1927 Indian motorbike that he got out of a pond after 10 +years sitting there. He put the whole frame motor and transmission into a 55 gallon drum for 3 months when removed it looked like new and the mtor turned over and he could change gears and was able to disassemble like it was built yesterday
Impressive results! Thanks for sharing this.
@Zachary Dinubilo unfortunately not this about 15 years ago
Impressive!
mmh did he need to do any mechanical cleaning and what was needed to restore the frame for instance? I'm thinking could this be used to clean whole car frame from rust, cause car size pool of evapo rust is bit on expensive side, while pool of molasses could be on price range of regular DIY guy.
@@Hellsong89 other than washing off with water no.
I love your videos. Even though I'm not someone who deals with mechanical equipment of any kind, your series on synthetic oil was super interesting and made me really think twice about what oil to put into my car! My next oil will be some of that Amazon Basics
Thank you for the positive feedback!
After the championship videos, I will be using the pennzoil ultra platinum
I have to say that the molasses works far better than anything I have tried if one has the time to wait for it. After I scrounged around for every rusty piece of tool, or kitchen gadgets, I kept the molasses mixture in a galvanized bucket for over a month and the other day I soaked something overnight and it removed the rust still. I just dumped it today and it had close to a quart of rust that fell off everything including the bucket. It only devours the rust and stops. I'm quite amazed at that one. I used oxolic acid quite a bit. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.
Thank you!
6:32 -- Now drink it.
"This week on project farm activated charcoal vs stomach pumping"
LOL
LMAO
I look forward to the smell of molasses instead of vinegar on my future rust extermination projects.
Lol
I was one of those viewers who suggested molasses in your 1st video. I was pleased to see you did this follow-up video and include molasses. I've used molasses several times on rusty tools. It's not fast, but I know I can safely leave the tool in the molasses for several weeks without any risk of removing good steel. It does a fantastic job and is the best choice if you are not in a hurry.
You did an excellent job of comparison. It was a very fair test. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much for recommending molasses!
Do you dilute the molasses with water?
Man, that's a huge bottle of molasses. I see a lot of pancakes in your future.
Haha
Its animal feed molasses, tho. Dont know if Id be too keen on eating it since it may lack preservatives and other safeguards.
Rum dude, rum
@@MikkellTheImmortal Sounds like a plan to me...
I don’t think you’d be to interested in eating that molasses it’s meant to be a sweet treat for cows or deer.
How many projects do you have going on at any given time?
Great question. At least 3 and sometimes up to 5 and that doesn't include the test design/planning that occurs a month or so before. Thank you!
Project Farm do you do all this alone or do you have a helper? Thanks for all the work you do for us.
I have a teenage son who's able to help me during the summer and weekends during the winter. It helps a lot. I don't have any other help besides him and it is a challenge to keep up. Thanks again!
Do you even sleep? So much content! Brilliant again thank you
Thank you for your diligence
I have been using Molasses for years with great results. I buy mine from TSC hunting section. I mix my molasses @ 3 parts molasses to 1 part water ( warm only to aid mixing) this mix is economical plus woks even better. But keep it cover in the shop or the dog will try licking your rust removal solution !! THANKS Dan H
Thanks for sharing.
I've been using evaporust for a long time...way before Hand Tool Rescue made it look cool. Mostly in places that is difficult to reach with tools like inside fuel tanks. I also used it because it works fast. It is pretty neat to see some of the alternatives to it.
Thank you for commenting on this. Evaporust is a great product!
Great Job, I’m so impressed with these videos that I’ve started a list of the better performing products.
Thank you!
Been a few weeks since I caught one of your videos...now I've been binging cause of the no bullshit no holds barred reviews of what your testing...love it and thank you for your incredibly hard work and dedication to honesty.
You are welcome!
Since watching your videos I've been using Muriatic acid, it has proven the best to completely remove rust. It's really corrosive and the fumes are extremely harsh and you need to refinish the surface right away, but there's simply nothing like it, and the steel is so well etched the primer and paint really sticks to it.
It's fantastic for rehabilitating mechanical components and at $15 a gallon is very effective for the money, but you MUST work outside or in another well ventilated area AND cover the acid lest it rusts steel surfaces nearby! A work-around is to dip the steel in phosphoric acid ("naval jelly") or citric acid afterwards.
Thanks for sharing.
Wow extremely impressed with the molasses! the metal looks absolutely fresh off the assembly line.
Very slow but would be great for delicate rust removal!
Thank you!
Molasses For The Win, IMHO
I stand in awe & admiration regarding the things that I learn via these tests. Once again it has been informative & entertaining.
Thank you!
you can get a couple pounds of 99.9% pure oxalic acid off amazon for like 10 bucks. just mix like a couple scoops in water and soak. its 1-1.3 ph so very acidic but doesn't eat metal quickly. its the active ingredient in molasses.
Great suggestion! Thank you
Perhaps a tea made from rhubarb leaves would work, too. That's also oxalic acid and why the leaves are toxic.
Just remember to keep it away from anything glass as you will etch it and possibly dissolve glass containers, plastic only when using oxalic acid.
Holy cow. I legitimately just was searching about some of these products(evapo rust) to take rust off some of my car parts. This is fantastic. Thank you!!
Thank you!
wd brand of stuff work same to me if u happen to have any credit a lowes
I'm a big fan and have recommended you as a go to channel on my Facebook page as well as in person. Ut I must confess that I had to keep rewinding to when you said the word "ruined" cause I love the way you say it. I'm embarrassed to say I had a girly moment. Your presentation is always great! We appreciate how you don't over explain and clip on at a steady pace. Some of these guys go like they're assuming the audience is lets say, slow. The intelligence you present in your videos as a whole clearly shows you respect ours, keep up the good work thanks!
Thanks, will do!
Have you used an ultrasonic cleaner (heated or not) with any of these products to see if Ultrasonic cleaning adds anything.
I have, and it does
I use a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner with evapo-rust and it works great
Hey, How about a video on ultrasonic cleaning vs other cleaning and dusting methods ? Just a thought.
Now I want to try higher strength cleaning vinegar in my ultrasonic
I use Simple Green and also Dawn dish soap in my US cleaner and it works amazingly well. The Simple Green pretty much digests aluminum though so be careful.
A neat video would be to remove rust with electrolysis using different anodes. Love your videos keep it up.
The side with rust (positive terminal) is the anode. The cathode (negative terminal) can be anything you want as long as it conducts electricity because that's where the dissolved ions turn into solid metal.
@@shawn576 actually, you connect the rusted piece to the negative terminal, as ions flow from negative to positive. Your point stands though, it does not matter what you connect to the positive side, as long as it conducts electricity, as it won't have any effect on how the rust is removed.
This video is so well done.Full of info, and held my interest to the end. The Editing is so snappy and seemless. Molasses...makes nice rum,good for gardening, kitchen and workshop and cow feed.Top stuff.
Thank you
Molasses as a rust remover? I never would have guessed. That was really interesting and very informative.
Thank you
I wonder how heavy corn syrup and honey would do. :-). White vinegar has many great uses. Muriatic acid fumes are the worst. Great video as usual!
Great video idea! Yes, the muriatic acid fumes are pretty bad and cause metal to rust that's 10-15 feet away. Looking forward to your next video!!
@@ProjectFarm any sugar is a reducing substance. Corn syrup likely would work just like molasses. The honey has antibiotic properties though, so if there is a secondary biological thing that is going on with the molasses, it might inhibit it.
@@ProjectFarm I watch videos by a guy who does metal finishes on high end doors and things. The fumes from the muriatic acid rusted the metal he was storing in his shop
I am shocked. This is absolutely fascinating. I'd be willing to bet that this effect was discovered during the clean-up after the great molasses flood in Boston in 1919.
I love this channel.
Thanks!
That flood was terrible. I heard that one survivor had his artificial leg destroyed.
This was a great video. Thank you. But I think your graphs would be easier to understand if you kept the products in the same location on each graph rather than ordering them from largest result to smallest result. Also, a final multi bar graph at the end showing all results for all products side-by-side would be nice to see as well.
Thank you for the recommendation!
I never new about Molasses, I will have to try it. Thanks for the video.
Thank you!
I don't know how I missed this video when it came out. So glad I watched it. Such great information in your videos. From the design of your experiments to the data collection and analysis, you're like a one man research lab! Thanks so much for the great content.
Thank you!
This video was linked in a Megan Thee Stallion and Beyonce video comment, I wasn't expecting this but I still finished this video and liked and subscribed, nice video it was informative. :)
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Why does molasses even work? It’s definitely a head scratcher for me.
Chelating agents found in molasses using a similar process as Evap-rust
Because grandma used it......don't know why
It also has a fairly wide range of pH values, so it may be acidic or basic in nature as well.
Ferment and distill!
The fermentation process steals oxygen from the iron oxide - is a guess.
Molasses is often recommended for vintage bicycle frames on the forums I am part of, cheap enough to use large amount to submerse the entire frame and does not remove the parent metal, but as you said, allow 3 weeks or so to get the right results...
Thanks for doing this video!
Thank you
What about whats the best and safest product for removing copper corrosion? You could just use pennies and show the detail up close to see if the copper itself is being removed too.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm Since 1982 pennies have been made from zinc.
Definitely surprised by the molasses, I never heard of that little trick, but now I know for the next rusty job. Evaporust honestly really is good, I've used it multiple times but seeing the comparison and little experiments showed it. Most stuff your going to be removing rust from is probably something that you aren't worried about losing paint or coating anyway so
Thank you for the feedback
I'm truly amazed at the molasses! Great video and the hard work yet again my friend! Keep it up!
Thank you!
Loved this video, keep up the good work!
Still here to bug you for solder vs crimps!
Thank you very much! I need to do this one soon.
@@ProjectFarm According to the Air Force, a properly crimped terminal will have less resistance than solder, and will stand up to at least as much pull as a solder joint. In fact, a pull test is required on each batch of wire/crimper-adjustment/terminal to the point of failure, with the wire breaking b4 a pull out of the crimp.
Rule of thumb.....it depends on the quality of connection you need. Crimping is quicker, and can be used in most situations. Some connections are more sensitive (certain audio, video, and controller connections) and should be soldered. This is from over 40 years experience in electronic repair.
Much respect to the military but a correctly soldered connection will make a more efficient connection. However crimping allows the mechanical connection to the sheathing which will allow for a better pull out resistance. Soldered connection is best by far along with some silicone and shrink tubing . When I'm goin to do a soldered connection I will secure the wires together by zip toeing the sheathing to sturdy locations.
Are your connections critical to operation? Is the resistance a factor? Is the signal a tiny current? Is vibration a concern? Is the connection subject to Hot/Cold/ moisture/cycling? In those situations, a PROPERLY made crimp is the way to go. Think about it. Solder, of any current blends, is still a higher resistance and is softer than the wire. Solder deteriorates over time, under the conditions given above. A crimp, properly made (tooling, adjustment, with a ratcheting, non-reversing ability, will crush the wires such that the total circular area is completely enclosed with no gaps. It becomes the equivalent of a solid wire, and any surface corrosion that exists on the wire becomes a small percentage of the total resistance presented to the connector.
I agree that sometimes a solder connection is the only way to go. Some cheap PCB's have holes to solder wires to; some military connectors use solder to pins or sockets. But try to find a soldered connection in a high power (multi KVA's) connector.
I guess a proper TEST might be a good idea here. I state all of this to show that a good test is not just solder something up and make it fail. This subject is fraught with controversy among engineers, so Project Farm may be a little out of his league on this one. No offense. It depends on what you want to test FOR.
the Best Rust Remover I've seen is a Laser it's expensive but awesome
seen videos and that is the bomb, wish i could afford the hardware, instant rust removal, no wire brushing, no soaking over night or up to 3 weeks. just amazing. :)
Only 80 to 100,000 bucks for a good machine last I heard!
Thanks for the great test demonstration. I have the ultimate rust problem, which I am trying to solve with molasses. I have a boat with a raw water cooled engine, which was used in salt water for several years after I replaced the water cooled exhaust manifolds (big $). In 2000 I took the boat out of the water, and I thought I had treated/protected the manifolds. Fast forward to 2018. I finally get to work on the engine, and expected to find the manifolds in nice condition. Wrong, wrong, wrong. About $1500 worth of manifolds completely plugged with rust. Not even a hammer and chisel could penetrate some of the openings! But, I was determined to try to salvage the manifolds (I know, cough up the $1500...but, no, not me). I have tried Evaporust, Vinegar, and electrolysis. All made a slight but pretty minimal dent in the rust. After much research, I finally decided to go for the Molasses. Mixed up farm grade molasses in 20 gallon container, put in a pond pump to try to get into some of the cavities. Left the tub for about 2 months! Finally some progress. I think about 6 months or so in the summer with the pump running might do the trick. Molasses is extremely slow, but very safe for the metal, and extremely cheap. I would encourage you to try a very long term test on extremely rusted parts with internal passages...this is the ultimate test for salvaging either expensive or irreplaceable parts (read antiques). I have tried to research what museum restoration shops do/use, when say, trying to de rust something like the Monitor (Civil War submarine), but have not had much luck. At any rate, thanks for your great tests and demonstrations.
Thanks for the feedback.
Any update on your boat project? Your comment was interesting to read and I wondered if you tried the long molasses soak
I used feed grade molasses and water to de rust a sickle bar for my garden tractor it took a month to clean it up but when it came out it was clean of rust and after washing was ready to be painted with primer
Impressive!
I met a couple of guys who restored vehicles. They would take engine heads etc and put them in a 44 gallon drum full. Diluted to about a 40 or 50:1 ratio. Came out like they were pretty near new.
I always use vinegar for my projects...cheap and effective!
Great point
Molasses is my go to for rust removal when I am restoring my old cars. A good suggestion after removing and washing down your posts is a spray and wipe down with phosphoric acid. This prevents flash rusting and phospatizes the metal. The metal will remain rust free and will have a gray etched finish perfect for paint.
Thanks for sharing.
I’m going to show this to the City! I want them to put molasses on the roads in the summer, it even matches the colour and it’ll clean the rust from the winter salt right off my car. It’s a sweet idea don’t you think?
lol. Thank you!
Molasses might actually be a useable substitute for road salt.
@@garethbaus5471 Except it's toxic to pollinating insects like honeybees
@@pootispiker2866 Might not be as much of a problem if they are using it as a substitute for road salt (which they use in winter when pollinating insects tend to be inactive). Road salt also tends to be toxic to a lot of things (ergo salting the earth to deny one's enemy the ability of using farmland).
Do you want ants? That's how you get ants
This was a very interesting video, I've never heard of molasses as a rust remover before. I wonder if other sugar syrups would work the same? What about if you don't dilute the molasses? What about other types of molasses?
Anyway, I enjoy your work, thanks for doing what you do.
Thank you!
Absolutely fantastic! I'm glad somebody finally tested all these methods against each other. Thank you!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Should've checked pH on the solutions, seems like the muriatic acid was over-diluted
*DISCLAIMER:*
*NO FARM ANIMALS WENT HUNGRY BECAUSE OF THIS TEST*
lol. Funny!
I pulled my great grandpa's post drill (human-powered drill press) out of my uncle's scrap pile several years ago. Just have to rig a tub to immerse it in, and head to an ag supply store for the molasses. Thanks for the info that will help restore this antique family heirloom!
That is awesome!
Am I correct in that these were in solution for 3 weeks rather than the whole test taking 3 weeks to perform? I use a fairly concentrated acid in a coffee container and come back after 30 minutes. I think when you approach 3 weeks you have more than approached "buy a new damn bolt" territory of trouble.
Think of it less for bolts and more for vintage machinery that can't easy be replaced.
The bolt is just example material.
This reminds me of the office episode when Kevin can do math really well when the units are pies rather than dollars. 432 pies/72=6 pies.. $432/72=??? The bolts are a stand in for any type of steel you want to remove rust from.
i wonder how the final result compares to oh say 5 mins with w wirewheel
Better at getting into hard to reach places.
Well when you're restoring a car and you've got about 200 bolts as well as countless other bits evapo rust is a damn lifesaver.
I appreciate that you follow a fairly good scientific method.
In grade school I always thought that the ideal way to deliver a science project was via a video, but never had the means to effectively make a video presentation like this.
Thank you!! A video for a project in school is a great suggestion!
Well, I guess I know what I'll be using to clean the rust out of this old generator gas tank. After I shake some nuts and bolts around in it.
Thanks for the vid.
Thank you
Why am I hungry for gingerbread now
Me too! Hope you enjoy the video!
I wanna listen to ZZTOP after this video :p
I like the wheels on garden tractors done to perfection as much as possible. I use electrolysis first and it usually softens the paint that all gets removed with a poly abrasive brush from Harbor Freight. By that time, the surfaces are fairly shiny. Immediately after taking them out of solution, we pickle the steel with metal prep that is diluted and then rapidly rinsed and force dried to eliminate flash rust. They will be a light blue and it's fine to do this a few times.
Sure beats sandblasting as the surface is pretty much bright steel. We spin the wheel on a garden tractor transmission and apply the primer from a spray gun. Super fast and accurate..Just have the transmission laying on its side and the rubber tire supports it. The differential let's the rotating tire spin. I once painted ,24 wheels in two hours and used glass beer bottles to hold them up inside the axle for drying
Thanks for sharing.
Try gear oil in a crankcase of an engine because if it has worn piston rings it should stop blue smoke
Thank you for the video idea! Hope you enjoy the video!
@Rick Simpson Yes coca cola with sugar dissolves rust in the same way as molasses where the main stock is about 60% sugar. A 60% sugar solution in water works equally well. Add some dish soap to the solution if it is to be used to loosen rust in threads. Unfortunately, sugar does not dissolve carbon so a solution of sugar will not loosen piston rings held in carbon.
Dan Waters I can tell you that it smells bad.
Sae 60.is the thickess oil I would use in an engine. Anything thicker would make the oil pump struggle to pump the oil to the piston rings and valves
10:23 So this is how flan and vanilla pudding is made.
You are everywhere, you are in my nightmares at night.
You're still around. Cool
Your 15 minutes is up Justin.
@@herbiehusker1889 now that's just nasty. Say sorry to Justin right now.
@13:20 You're correct. Generally speaking, most white products (paints, dyes, etc.) use titanium dioxide as a pigment. Great video, I honestly did not expect molasses to remove any rust.
Thanks for the feedback.
Surprising - guess I never gave molasses the time it needs. Good info, Another great informative Project Farm project! Thanks!
PS - I think the Muriatic acid was neutralized by all the aluminum it dissolved. A periodic PH check with litmus paper would tell the tale and add useful data if you ever repeat this test.
Thanks so much! Thanks for the suggestion.
@Hand Tool Rescue Somebody here is a non-believer in our supreme lord&savior EVAPORUST (ALL HAIL).
lol. Thanks. Evapo-rust is great but is expensive.
Thank you again PF, glad to see your channel experiencing well earned growth.
Thank you!
Wish you'd included ultrasonic bath among the contestants (w and w/o additives). Please do an update including that.
Also, a video testing the options for rust prevention on screws and bits after the rust is removed, and their longevity, would be great!
Thanks for the video ideas.
I drove my Dodge truck into a swimming pool of molasses. I went back a week later and only found the tires.
lol
As an owner of a rusted dodge this is the best comment I’ve ever seen 🤣
Eric Rollins lol my family owns 4 dodges in total
Green_Bay_Cheesehead12 I feel sorry for them. I have one to.. I wish I didn’t sometimes haha
@@green_bay_cheesehead1248 the only dodge I have much experience with is a slightly rusty gutless wonder. If all dodge vehicles are like this I pity your family.
Great video and outstanding testing procedures Todd!
You do an excellent job with your testing and setups, I'm more and more impressed each time you do something new!
Thank you very much!!
Try citic acid for rust removal. Cheap and effective.
All I use. Buy 5-10 lbs at a time depending on what pricing I find. I probably have a lifetime supply at this point.
I commented earlier about citric acid at 14% and heated to 140°f. Talk about fast.
@The TacomaKid LOL
Which rust penetrator has the best lubricity protection?
Great video idea! I'll do this one soon. Thank you
Would be a riot to be hanging out with this fella talking product!
" YOU SAY THAT'S THE BEST WERE GUNNA TEST THAT"😁🤗
BEST CHANNEL 👍
Thanks so much!
One of the things I really like about this channel is the titles:
"Is Molasses better than Evapo-Rust for rust removal."
I didn't know you could even use molasses for rust removal. It would've never crossed my mind.
Until today, if my wife had said "Honey, we need to remove the rust from the patio furniture," I would've never said "Have you tried molasses?"
Thank you very much for the positive feedback!
You should try these tests with an agitator. Like something that shakes these glasses a little.. Still, Informative like usual. Although I simply won't use molasses for rust removal. 😂
Great suggestion! Thank you
Agitation will change the results here, but a test with agitation and ultrasonic cleaners would be enlightening. Most people won't have the time to agitate for 3 weeks.
After using vinegar for 12 to 24 hrs you have to wipe off the scale. Pure clean metal is underneath. It is very easy to wipe off or rinse off with water. Vinegar will dissolve galvanization too. It will dissolve aluminum as well if left for 48 hrs. You also need more vinegar, the more volume the more it will work.
Great point. Thank you
I noticed bubbles starting more like after 2 days.
Surprised by the effectiveness of molasses!
Me too! Thank you
No, but it sure makes old screwdrivers and wrenches taste better!
Ummm... are you a transformer?
@@fila1445 molasses used to be used in cooking in 18 and 19 century. Its a by product of sugar
@@ethank.6602 yeah but he is eating his tools !
Great review! Evap-o-rust in my experience, is the winner if time is important. Typically, it does it's thing within 1-3 days and is re-usable. Molasses is impressive though, even if it works slower.
So if your Elmer J.Fudd shotgun has some rust on it,just dunk it in a 5 gallon bucket of molasses and make it look like new again,cool!!.😎👍
The papa mole, momma mole, and the baby mole all when to the mole hole to eat molasses
It would look vewy vewy nice. Neehhehhhehhh.