MG TF Restoration ¦ Inlet & Exhaust Manifold Removal
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I'm on with removing the inlet and exhaust manifolds with one being significantly easier than the other!!!
Milwaukee High Torque Impact Wrench:
amzn.to/2SQbUyA
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Thanks Lee, some good pictures here. It helps clear up some of the mysteries of the mid engine TF. I would not attempt this at 74 years old. It is a job for younger fitter people.
Hi MGLee, I gave 'constructive suggestions' to your last video. I'm back, and I'd like to say how happy I was to watch ALL of this video. Gold star for all the effort you've clearly put into the editing and filming work. Great job.
Your narrative at 10:28 is a trap I fell into in my youth about your age, thinking that the threaded stud with the stuck nut on the end would behave just like a bolt when screwed back in. This is a big mistake for young players to fall into. The stuck nut MUST be removed from the threaded stud before the stud is screwed back in on its own.
Use a a couple of nuts on the opposite end of the stud, tightened up against each other to hold/ lock the stud from turning, while using a spanner on the stuck nut at the other end. When you've got the stuck nut off, then use two spanners on the two nuts on the other end, to undo and remove them. This leaves you with the stud and no nuts on it.
To re-insert the stud to the hole, you'll need to use the two nuts locked up against each other method to get the stud screwed securely. Be careful because I think the K series engine is Aluminium, which will strip the threads if over tightened. Check the manual for what torque the studs might need, or ring Rimmer Brothers if in doubt. If nothing better is found, use some *undoable* Locktite thread locking compound on the studs thread before re-inserting.
The back story on this and why it is necessary is something to do with the way the forces act when a bolt is screwed into a material, as opposed to a nut being tightened onto a stud already in the material. Perhaps its nothing more than the studs threaded length is already full 'bonded' to the material, in this case the Aluminium of the head/ or block, as opposed to a bolt who's threaded length is slowly biting into the material while applying great force as its tightened down. As this bolt hasn't got such a bite into the material it is liable to strip the thread before the required torque is reached.
I am sure there will be more viewers with far greater experience than mine that could better explain it or correct me if my understanding is foggy. None the less, the most important thing is to get that nut off the stud before refitting it, because it will work like a bolt when replaced, and there is a reason the manufacturer used a stud.
Cheers for more great advice Alex. Yes I'll be sure to get the studs back in and the torque set before putting the nuts back on (great tip about double nutting!).
Great vid - loved the grunting when undoing the nuts
Another great vid Lee. Great tip about the Rimmer catalogue, I've always gone through their website but will be ordering a catalogue just for the diagrams. Keep up the good work.
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Great videos Lee. Before you buy a new head gasket, check your liner heights. That will determine which gasket you need to fit. Don’t buy the cheapest one either; use a genuine Rover/Xpart gasket. Also definitely worth changing the underside coolant pipes for stainless.
Thanks Bruce, the lower pipes are shot so will definitely need doing. I'm mindful what shape the liners will be in...fingers crossed!!😆
One thing I will say from past experience is the carpet feels dry but the insulation underneath is wet and sometimes there’s rust
He dont look old enough to drive, without his little fluffy beared... awwwww bless 😍😱😨 lol
Be interesting to see if you do anything with the bodywork as Starlight Silver paint is no longer available, you can buy a matching type rattle can but I will let you be the test dummy before I do mine.
Tell me about it!! Theres several bits of paintwork needed towards the end and will be trying some Ebay/Amazon supposed Starliight silver cans...we'll see what happens!! Lol
A Dutch firm called Dregema sells MBB Starlight Silver. The paint is made by Standox.
@@Duskconqueror Fantastic, thanks for that 👍
I have now purchased the starlight silver paint and had a go at it myself. Complete mess more down to me than the paint so going to pay a pro to spray the whole car during the winter.
thank you! super usefull video!
WD40 is rubbish as a penetrating fluid - get yourself some PlusGas!! And good to see you've Joined us on The-T-Bar by the way :)
Cheers Chris. In the next few videos you'll see me switch to plus gas after one or recommendations 👍
Are You Recording This videos voice with Sony ICD 370 Recorder+Lav Mic???
Yes that's right.