Check this out: A Double Curve Cutting Board
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2018
- This video is sponsored by MicroJig: www.microjig.com/
and by Craftsman Abrasives: www.craftsmanabrasives.com/
I came across this technique in a magazine and I've used it on my lazy susan back in 2014 and on a mancala game in 2013. These are other good uses of the technique if you haven't seen them:
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Nice design. Thanks for explaining the techniques used in this project.
I love these techniques you showed
Great video! Definitely didn't know how you made the walnut curves before watching. Great technique with the router/template + bandsaw + flush trim!
Very pretty and I do like the the design with the dark grain crossing over each one. Good job!
Came out looking great. Very nicely explained as well.
I really like the way you explain everything along with the helpful tips. Thanks!
Thanks, Donna!
- Nice design. I used a 1/4 inch spiral router bit to divide the pieces then did the wood inset. the end product was the same. Spiral bits cut very clean & smooth.
thank you for the very detailed and thorough video.
Great video. This turned out so good.
That technique gives such a cool effect! Thanks for sharing that, Brian.
Glad you liked it!
Great video. I have been making boards with a somewhat similar process. Like you I use a router and templates to cut curved patterns into the board but then I dam the ends of each groove with silicon and pour resin into the groove. After the resin sets, the ends of the board are removed on the table saw and the board top flatten in a thicknesser and finally sanded . 320 grit usually gives a good finish to the resin and finish with oil or wax. This is not a river board so I mainly use opaque pigments.
Great looking board! Such a simple process, but you get awesome results. Thanks for showing it!
Yeah, it's a cool technique. It's difficult to really mess it up. Thanks for checking it out.
Great project, Brian, I really liked the arches through the middle of the cutting board.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for checking it out.
Great design! Very nice!
I thought this was very helpful. Thank you!
Very nice cutting board. I have seen this before and always thought the second wood was done by inlay. I'm confident I can make this.
But I think I'll use scraps first time around so I don't end up wasting exotics. Thanks!
.
I like how you explain what, why, and how you do things. Too many videos are just a fast play video without any explanations.
Nice work. Thanks
Very well done. Lots of tips.
Thank you. I hope they come in handy.
I thought you were going to say your shave in the middle of the video was also by Crafstman Abrasives. 😉 Great video. Thanks for sharing the info.
Great video👍
Great looking Board, and very neat trick to balance the Router.
Thank you
Great job; would love more information about how you made that diy curve jig!
Nice video Brian! 😎👍JP
Great tip about using a shape that locks into itself to make it less of a hassle during glue up. 👍
I learned that one the hard way a few years ago :)
Excelente maestro. Saludos desde el norte de Chile.
Thank you.
i like that bandsaw cutting through the groove trick. definitely gonna try this on an upcoming christmas gift. thanks for sharing!! 👍🏻
Buen trabajo con un resultado excelente.
Un saludo desde Alcorcón - Madrid
Thank you
Nice work
Thank you.
Nice explanation of the processes in this project Brian. Thanks for not glossing over anything!
Glad you liked it, Guy!
Great video. Just what I needed. I always seem to have an issue starting the end of the board with the pattern bit. It can be very scary. You did it uneventfully. Care to share the secret?
That belt sander must be smaller than I thought. That thing looked tremendous going through it! Thanks for all the tips.
It’s a 16” drum sander. Handles 99% of what I work with. She’s a fine machine, she is. :)
GREAT project, very well done! !! !!! 6:14 I thought you would have used Craftsman Abrasives to get that "clean close shave"???
Отличная идея! Спасибо. Привет из Киргизии
bravo 👍👍👍
That's beautiful, Brian.
Oh, I forgot. FIRST.
Thanks Adam!
Nice
Thanks for shaving for me! Most TH-camrs I feel don't respect their audience enough and go without shaving for days (or even weeks).
Ha! I do get a little lazy with it sometimes, but you're absolutely right. I've thought about growing a beard to make things easier, but I could never get used to it. ;)
I think the secret to growing a beard is to let it go only for a week or so, then shave cheeks and neck to neaten the appearance so it looks deliberate rather than just the effect of laziness! You look neat rather than scruffy whilst the beard develops.
Awesome
Thanks.
ficou top
I love the idea of the small twisting pieces! Do you use any kind of burn in stick to fill any pits/holes?
Thank you. I've never used a burn in stick.
nice!
Thank you, David!
nice
This looks very very nice. What have you used for finishing?
This will be a thing for my memory.
Thank you. I used food-grade mineral oil for the finish.
But where did you get your sandpaper from?
I like that design, Brian. Question: is there a reason why you went to the pattern bit step instead of just making a couple of passes with the first step?
I’m not 100% sure, but I think you’re asking why I didn’t separate the halves with the plunge router instead of only gong partially with the plunge route followed by the band saw? Let me know if I misunderstood you. I suppose you could do it that way - it should take several passes. On the last pass, before separation, the halves might start to move and could close on the bit, which would damage the side walls. If you could keep the halves from moving during the operation it should work. You could try it and see how it goes.
That's correct, thanks.
GarageWoodworks I was wondering the same thing. Your explanation makes sense. Thanks.
Question. After applying the template you cut it and then flush it. Could you not mark the curve, bandsaw the cut and use the template as a guide to flush it up? Why would you suggest the way you did it? Are there any advantages?
The router removes exactly 1/4” and copies the template onto both sides that are cut. There is no longer a need for the template and I know exactly how thick to make the inserted material. And both sides are a perfectly inline with each other. Your way doesn’t get you any of the above.
Also, if you copy the template onto both halves, there won’t be room for the inserted material. The template and its complement would need to be offset on both sides by 1/8” for a 1/4” strip to insert. If they are not offset, both halves plus the added insert would not fit together. (*And I think you’d need to make two templates - one for the complement and one for the other in order to pattern route both halves).
Hey where do you get your sandpaper from?
Ha ha. Until more people feel like it’s worthwhile to support my endeavors through Patreon, you’re going to hear more about it. By the way, I am 100% Google Ad free unlike most other content creators.
😉
I have a question: why is it important that the accent strip’s width be the same size/diameter at the router bit? Is it only so the board’s overall dimensions remain the same, or is there another reason? For example, if you used a 1/4” bit for the initial router part, then input a 1/8” accent strip, is there a physical or structural (for lack of a more applicable term) reason that wouldn’t work? Getting ready to build my first couple of boards and am using your video as a How To tutorial. Thanks!
Hi. If the width of the material removed is not replaced with the same width of material, you will very likely have gaps in the curve.
@@GarageWoodworks Interesting. Thanks. Keep up the good work on the channel and in the shop!
What is the secret to starting the pattern bit without getting kickback from the bit?
Research router climb cut. (pretty sure thats the kind of cut to avoid). Stumpy nubs has good vid on subject.
I'm not 100% sure but I think he's sponsored by Craftsman Abrasives
I’m not 100% sure but you might be a genius.
Fairing stick
Also commonly called a “drawing bow”.
Cv