Amazon Diesel engine generator pt 3 Makes power
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2024
- This is an Amazon 196cc Chinese diesel engine, spinning a 6 phase hub motor from a scooter as a generator, I finally mounted the hub motor to the engine stand, got a belt that fits, and was able to do a test run. The setup worked better than expected. Now that I know it works I will be cleaning everything up then will test different fuel types, run time and things like that. Enjoy
Amazon link to engine amzn.to/3Uu81A6
That drill starting routine is pure genius!
Saves my back and shoulder for sure!
Where to buy this machine?
I would suggest getting a 3 phase wind mill generator charge controller that is set to 48 volts for it. It will treat the induction motor running on the diesel engine exactly the same as a wind turbine generator and automatically regulate the output power from it.
That’s a good idea! I will look into those
You can’t charge a 48 volt battery pack with 48 volts, you need a little higher voltage. That’s why a 12 volt automotive battery is charged at 14 volts. Following the same pattern, a 48 volt battery should be charged at around 56 volts.
@@ethanlamoureux5306 The charge controller set for 48 volts will charge based on a 48 volt battery charging regimen, typically they can be custom set to charge Flooded Lead acid, AGM, Gel, lithium ion, or even LiFEPO4 (lithium iron phosphate batteries)
@@johnbrizendine7716 Yes, I’m sure they can, if the charge controller is designed to be powered at 48 volts. In that case, the battery pack is either going to be somewhat less than 48 volts or else the controller will be using a DC to DC boost circuit to increase the voltage above 48 volts. It’s the nature of batteries that if the input voltage is the same as the output voltage, no power will flow into the battery and it won’t charge. You can’t charge a 12 volt battery on 12 volts unless it’s badly discharged to less than 12 volts.
Also, you probably already know but it’s worth repeating that lithium batteries need a special charge controller with the ability to monitor each individual cell so as to prevent overcharging, as that can be disastrous!
@@ethanlamoureux5306 I don't think you get it... If you get a charge controller set to 48 volts, it's not set to output 48 volts, it means it is set to charge and condition a 48 volt system. The charging regimen is ALWAYS higher than the nominal voltage of the system, but the system itself is usually set to 12, 24, 36, 48, etc. volts. It's understood that when stating the voltage it's set to is the nominal voltage and the controller/charger will put out enough voltage to charge/condition/maintain the battery. It's set that way so that you just have to look for a charging system made for the voltage of your system. A windmill charge controller set to 48 volts will put out around 56 volts for lead acid and a little more for AGM and a little less for SLA batteries per the charge settings.
Oh this brings back memories of when I was 12, me and my best friend built a gas version of this. If I might offer some tips from my findings. 1. obtain a common idler pulley, mount an arm that you can lever to release tension on the belt. Easy engine starting and softer starts of the generator. Then use a spring to hold belt tension on the lever. 2. No matter how tight you get those brackets the hub will loosen, you'll need to triangulate the mount. 3. MPPT for sure if this is to be in real use. (Real MMPT). According to the Amazon listing this engine is 2200 Watts. So if you get 75% of that through all the friction loses it will be a win!
i really liked how you pointed out the rectifiers terminals, when you explained where the windings land and that produce the output. just little details like that are my favorite.
I charge my 48 Volt battery bank like this and Imho it's the most efficient way to do it, hubmotors are permanent magnet motors that are much more efficient than alternators, cheaper as well because you can find these everywhere (2nd hands EV scooters with dead batteries).
My setup is a 10 HP Hatz diesel from the 80's, driving the hubmotor with a belt, it runs about 1500 RPM under load and charges my battery bank with about 2000 watts.
For an old and slow running diesel, I get about 2,7-2,8 kWh per liter which is great, i use to charge with a normal 6 kw generator through the inverter, but it consumes a lot at 4kw, about 3 liters per hour gasoline. Now just under 1,5 liter for the same amount of energy, it runs on cheap agricultural diesel as well.
I'm currious to see how these small Chinese 3.5hp diesels hold up in terms of robustness and efficiency.
That’s awesome, sounds like a good setup, yea pretty much same idea here, we will see how the engine holds, if it blows I may try a yanmar clone.
You could get a good bit more efficiency if you could get full load at 2200rpm which is where most diesel engines make their peak bsfc
@@PinkFZeppelinMine is a long stroke diesel that runs 3000rpm tops, so 1500 is sort of a sweet spot, where it also sounds happy.
Its a 100kg engine for only 10 hp, virtually indestructible, will run for another 40 years.
if you keep using that hub motor, take it apart and drill some holes in it for air flow. It'll get REALLY hot making that kind of power and being all sealed up is great for keeping the weather out, but lets it cook 10 times as fast! I don't use mine for generating... but it works both ways. Once the very thin coating on the windings burns up, your motor/generator is DONE.
Agreed that’s a good idea, it also has a built in temp sensor, I need to figure out a way to use that, but holes will definitely help with cooling and monitoring the windings
Just add headskins I don't think holes are a good idea
Holy crap, I just found your channel and am already loving this series!
We used old alternators on windmills to charge batteries back in the 80s.
I noticed that switch on my titanium welder at about 3 years too! LoL
You can start the engine from the hub motor, and you can make it start automatically when needed, just slap a controller and a micro computer to it.
Awesome idea. That's how a Honda ruckus works, the alternator is the starter
@@ChillCat665 Gas Golf Carts do this as well.
You would have to be able to code to get the computer to work the system, not everyone is going to be able to do that
New to your channel. I subscribed when you busted your ass on the diesel unboxing video! So glad you didn’t edit that. Seriously though, I’ve only watched a few of your videos and I’ve already learned some things. Good stuff!
Thanks man im going to keep trying and building to see were things go with this channel!
Cool set up would be very reliable and pretty cheap to run
I didn't read through the comments so I don't know what others said - the engine will lug at about 1kw on 120 or 240 volts AC -
You loose about a 1/3 toa 1/2 HP via belt transmition - with 110 AC and above it takes 1 HP to generate 416 watts -
With low voltage DC it generally takes 1 HP to generate 330 watts of power - that's from 12 to 64 volts -
That engines best power curve is at 2600 RPMs -
It's a good engine from what I've seen -
I worked on generators in the off shore oil fields for yrs -
I'm hooked now ..need more of these Chinese clone builds 🎉🎉🎉
Have the same welder. Already used it for a few odds and ends. My favorite fix so far was fixing a migrated valve sleeve on a Briggs motor for a ZTR I got a few months back. A tiny little tack weld is all it took :)
Awesome project! subbed. Also it's likely the stator is wound the way many modern automotive alternators are wound: two windings per phase, so you still get 3-phase, but with double the amperage. If you check voltages between the legs of both sets, you'll probably find a pair of phases that are at the exact same voltage and are in-phase... meaning you could tie them together at the rectifier.
Awesome project man! Really curious to see how the experimentation with cooking oil will go, keep it up!
Loved the video! Try and use an mppt or similar charge controller from a solar system..that way you can have a choice of input range based off bank size
I bought one of these diesels to test out as well. The problem you will run into is once you start loading the engine, the exhaust side of the head gets too hot and head gaskets fail. I had mine hooked to a 5kw generator. It would run for 3-4 minutes at 2kw output then overheat and die. And btw, you can take the centrifugal rpm limiter out of it and these little motors will turn 5k rpm. I still have yet to actually blow mine up.
Also the thing runs on absolutely anything I dump in it.
Diesle engines will run hotter when the mixture is rich, turn down the fuelling and the temp should reduce. Get an EGT probe and you can watch the effect in real time.
@@ChrisDay-sx4lv Im aware of this but unfortunately without a turbo and intercooler, the only way to make 3 hp with this engine is fuel. I might be able to play with injection timing and gain a small amount, but probably won't help. also these engines are indirect injected, injecting into a cup in the head, causing the head to run even hotter. I can say the only thing this engine would be good for is a go cart or mini bike that the load isn't 100% constant
@@user-do7qj3gu7u In that case increase the amount of humidity in the incoming air using a bubbler or ultrasonic fogger etc the engine will produce more torque and will run cooler. You could also use HydroDiesel which will have the same effect.
Thats absolutely awesome 👌 thanks for sharing your great experience and experiments, those diesel engines need to live underground or somewhere sound proof 😀
Love your projects! 👍🏼
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Cool project. Im curious what you can get out of that setup when using all phases. What's been done in other such builds is to use an MPPT solar controller between your DC out and your battery to optimize the volts/amps relationship. If the motor is limited on output current but wants to make something like 100v at max revs, the MPPT will put that through a step down converter and 'exchange' volts for more amps into the battery, basically.
In theory i would expect you could get between 2000w out of the setup based on the power of the engine, and if you were getting 800+w out of one set of phase windings it makes sense you'd be getting close to that if you used all the phases. I'll be curious to see any further testing with the setup.
I second this though there is some efficiency loss through a converter. Also he'll need to build a tensioner at some point here. I'm actually surprised it made 800W just with the weight of the motor against the belt, though it may have been slipping already.
I think adding a mppt will help, but you will have to look at the losses from the MPPT compared to the voltage drop / loss in your DC cables..If you are going to add this to your big 48v battery, you may want to even wire your rectifiers up in series and boost your dc volatage so you can use smaller wire from the rectifiers, to your mppt , to your battery - unless the plan is to have this running right next to your batteries.
Awesome. I wanted to do something like this for a range extender for my electric scooter, similar electric motor pushes me down the road. I got a cheap inverter gas generator and it has the rotor on the shaft directly. That's both good and bad. China sells something like that in ready made kits with the engine and windings on it but shipping one of those here would be too much of a headache and cost. You could also hook up an ebike controller to the phases on the rectifier and spin up the motor by itself without needing the drill anymore. I saw they do that in the kits. the inverter generator I got has really high voltage windings, makes 650v at around 6500 rpm. If I could bolt an e-scooter motor on there and make 48v or something and step it up to the 80v I need (20s li-ion) that would be great, but I don't have the metal working ability to do that yet. Its inverter only has a 450v input capacitor so ever running that ungoverned could get scary. I have to get dc and convert it somehow, first thing that dies on these tiny 1000w generators is the potted black box inverter. Its like a modified boat motor, 60 ish cc's, I wanted that cause it needs to be very compact to fit on the scooter. With your static use case you can get away with a lot more part reusing which is great. I run 15 amps continuous and 60 amp peaks on wire much thinner than what your motor has, I wouldn't be worried at doing 30 amps easy just looking at that wire. Of course check the motor casing and wires to see if they get hot. I have a qs205 motor here I need to fix for someone, it has wires similarly thick and the controller that came with it is a 100 amp sabvoton. Of course that's just for accelerations, but half or less of that should probably be sustainable. 750w is 1hp, not counting the losses thru the belt and motor, that engine has what, 3hp? You probably will run out of engine power long before your electric side gets stressed. Although I'm not so sure about riding the belt on the motor case directly, might rub through the aluminum, it would be better to bolt a pulley to the brake disc mount. Keep on testing ✌️
Smalley :)
I like it so far! if you measure the output voltage on the two windings before the rectifiers, if they are the same, you can connect the other winding to the other rectifier and then just parallell the DC output! :) That way you can use double the power on one load! It will work as long as you do it on the DC side!
Interesting that the engine began to smoke a bit under load, will be interesting to see if mine does that once I get my generator together! will be a while though, I need to fabricate so many more parts than you needed to haha
Nice test. Looks like it works well. Cheers
Okay. I've always been too afraid to ask; but i've followed this build (and love it), so I'll ask.
It seems like the generator gets - and I don't know how to say this - 'harder to turn' with the load. I've always been curious of that (and how that works)
Magnetic resistance. As current travels through the coils of the generator motor, it creates a magnetic force that pulls against the rotor (part that spins) which makes it harder to turn. More current drawn results in more force required to turn it.
You may notice the same thing in your car. If you have it at idle, with the headlights on and heater running full blast the engine may lug down a bit. This is due to the amperage draw from the alternator, making the engine work harder to spin it.
Consider adding the other windings to an additional rectifier and then connect the two rectifier outputs in series the double the voltage and then move your amperage shunt measuring device to the increase dc voltage of your series dc output, and then reduce your engine rpm by about 40%. This should give your generator steady output with less fuel consumptions. You will also need a charge controller, to prevent over charging.
Ya i have a century flux core inverter based welder i got as an open box on clearance from the home depot for like $100 bit its basically the same thing works great
The drive belt is sliding, if you have it tighten the engine will drive it at even lower speed.
Agreed with everyone about adding an MPPT controller, ones meant for use with small permanent magnet wind turbines would be a good start. Then figure out the most efficient RPM setting on the engine and tune your gearing to match the most efficient operational mode of the controller. I'd be very curious to see what a real world kwh per gallon would be.
Get one of those cheep red toy wagons and weld that to it. I’ve actually done this for a mobile pressure washer system a few years back.
Excellent
It would be great to test the larger engines too
You can connect the rectifiers in parallel to get more efficient power generation, smoother dc and cooler running rectifiers.
Very nice. I have been thinking about doing the same thing. We have a 24v system. I guess I could put in in via a charge controller to see what happens? Thoughts on that? We live remote in Alaska and can get diesel cheaper than gas. Really just need to be able to charge the house batteries.
Use car alternator without the rectifier three face direct you can do everything with it 😉 .
Fuel filter is backwards. Don't change it now though.
I’m just eye balling it but the pulley off a riding mower should be big enough that you can cut the center out of it, fit it over the hub motor and use those existing holes in the flange to bolt it on.
This gives you an actual v grove for the belt.
While it might not have been obvious it seemed like the belt was slipping and by all rights it should have been.
I wonder if you could hook the extra winding to battery power and use it as a starter for the engine?
I would add a second rectifier block to share the load and halve the winding current out of that motor. The engine is rated at 2200 watts (3hp) but those are Chinese watts.... It might be interesting to see how efficient the mechanical setup and permanent magnet alternator are and therefore just how much electrical power you can produce but there must be an argument to stay with ~750 watts which may be all you need and just benefit from low diesel consumption and longer engine life.
It's not running on used oil yet, right? I am particularly interested to see if it will run on used oil.
nice job. that smoke is from the engine working and it will go away once it breaks in.
I would suggest putting a large CCCV unit on it to limit/clean the voltage so its not bouncing/going too high
I need to build a dc generator, thought about using one of these engines, or the better ones! Id like about 10 hp! But was thinking maybe use one of the smaller engines and bolt a supercharger on it! Diesels need boost! A 3 hp engine with 3-5 psi should make more power with added fuel! It hopefully do 6-8 hp
I would suggest that you up the voltage an put a solar charge controller in between the rectifier and your 48 V load/batteri. This will be much safer, and give you more better voltage and amp control.. cool project.. 🤓
How much load are you hoping to put on this alternator and engine? that alternator may waist a lot of fuel if your only utilizing 20% of its potential. Thinking you may need a much larger alternator. I only seen less than a few hundred watts. If it is 3HP then it can run a 1.5Kw generator head under full load.
Bro that’s pretty neat stuff. I’m a backyard engineer as well, only I’m working on hydrogen on demand and a type of homemade lpg I call #poorpane .
It would be some thing real cool to combine what I’m working on with this and you’d make a 100% off the grid recyclable system.
I’ve been approaching designing the ICE back up generator part to a full solar , hho and lpg off grid system im drawing up and designing that can hopefully be applied to manufactured homes and cabin kits , as well as normal homes when scaled up. But we should chat sometime and if anything these videos and your trails will help me when I get to that stage of my design so thanks you in advance!!
Keep up the engineering!
Thanks can't wait . A. ~196cc diesel is about ~8 to ~10 hp based on 300 cc is about 13 hp . Diesel fuel consumption is about 0.4lbs per hp per hour or about 1.8 litres per 10 HP per hour . I look for the same solutions for my boat to make power probably 12 volts 200 amp bank . Normal marine engines don't like to do ~10% to ~30 % gas usually ~1000 rpm to ~1600 Rpm but prefer to do ~60% gas continuous usually about ~2300 RPM if top gas is ~3200 RPM . Where do you get that generator from ???
Can that hub motor cool itself properly? I guess there is one way to find out.
No! HAHA! Mine looks like swiss cheese now, but I can pump 5000 watts into it when it's only rated for 1000 :D
Hope to use one of the two kw BLDC motors as a generator, only a maximum of 500 watts output.
I'm impressed :)
Thanks!
Very cool, I am over in Australia QLD where we just got a cyclone and most of the town lost power. I didn't loose power but I had the idea of making something similar to this I was thinking of either using an old mower and a car alternator or ebay has 4 stroke stationary motors for under $200 aud shipped that would possibly do the job. Anyway nice job ill keep watching your progress.
On that second rectifier you could possibly connect a buck converter 48v to 12v and charge both at once.
I’d recommend a solar charge controller and an output capacitor, and a big one. The higher voltage wont be a problem for a solar charge controller and it will allow for maximum efficiency. Just make sure you’re not pulling too much current. But yea, id use the higher voltage with a victron 150v charge controller and get a big cap to put on the main DC output
I think the rotor magnet setup won't actually allow you to burn it up, as the load will reduce the field of the rotor. It is, what the motor inverter does in order to allow higher speed - countering the rotor field by the stator current. The same will happen when you load it, even till a short circuit, the load current will counter the rotor field. So as the max current is determined by the strength of the rotor magnets, so dictated by the motor internal design. And here I would expect the winding rating to be designed inline with the rotor magnets.
In fact the same system is used on motorbikes charging system, there the battery voltage is controlled by the regulator rectifier actually short circuiting the alternator in order to control the rotor field.
Hopefully that’s the case! I will monitor temperature on a long test and see
If you see smoke under a load your overloading the engine -
Its not a good idea to run oil as fuel in that engine - you can if you pre heat the fuel line with heat trace to 350° F - othere wise it will carbon lock or you will have to pull the head off often and clean the carbon out the cylinder heads - the carbon will cause compression loss and it wont start when that happens -
If that is indeed a diesel engine your going to get some smoke under load that's just how Diesel engines are
Hockey pucks as frame mounts!
That’s a good idea!
I use them for body mounts on my jeep CJ.I also use them for front feet on my generator.Take a paddle bit and recess a little so the hex head of a 1/4 x 20 bolt wont come in contact with the ground drill a 1/4 inch hole through the puck and through your frame rails at each corner.@@Mikebuildss
Where did you buy your pulley from. I know our diesel engines are 20mm shaft.
I have 2 of them with the starter kit. One of the engine is bolted on my occ schwinn chopper
I used standard 3/4 inch pulley from tractor supply, I used a flap disk to very poorly shave down the shaft, works great
@@Mikebuildss Thats what i did for my project bike to fit the torque converter on
Looks sketchy and dangerous, I like it
Safe as mothers milk..lol
@@georgeszilva1223 if mom smoked meth..... ;) again, love it. i might buy one of those motors just to "have"
If you're going to direct charge like that, you need to reduce the input voltage to less than 5% more than your battery voltage. That's way too high.
If you want to help charge it more efficiently, put a capacitor bank on the 3 phase side to keep the power output smooth.
My suggestion is to use a high voltage then use MPPT like DavidPoz did. The advantage is that you can get maximum power or you can also regulate the power by setting the charging current at MPPT.
yes used oil!
Do you have more info on the hub motor?
hey mike new to the channel, awesome stuff, quick question are you a welder by trade?
im trying to get into welding
Nope self taught, just buy a machine and hone your skills!
what are the motor specs?
volt and watt, resistance between phases wire.
Get those other diesel motors
you need to add capacitor to cleanup output voltage
It's going straight into a battery. I don't think it cares, and it smooths the output anyway, just like in a car alternator system.
@@kevin9c1 one more, i think is better use some mppt solar charge controller like david poz do
@@priyo.dwiutomoIt's lead acid mate. Charges the same way in your car.
Source on hub motor?
-is that diesel motor a 3hp?- it is lol. I've got a dead 186f 10hp inverter generator (dead inverter board) with a good engine and maybe a good stator that I'm looking to convert to a 48v DC charger, maybe a project for this winter.
you can parallel the *output* of both rectifiers, TH-camr David pos did it with a dual 3phase alternator and fed it into a victron solar charge controller but had a huge capacitor for smoother DC.
I’ve seen that video, I want to use the same charge controller he used but it’s 600 dollars! The plan is to add both in parallel and see how good it works
@@Mikebuildss I'm eager to see the results and load on the engine, you have a new sub too.
Where did you buy that welding machine
Harbor freight it’s the titanium flux core 125
I'd say hook this generator up to an electric bike in place of the battery and see how many MPGs you can get out of it
Of course you want to put a small battery in between to somewhat reduce the ripple produced by the 3 phase motor, or you can just hook up a big capacitor on the output
Try to run tests at various loads to see how many kWh per kg of fuel you can generate. That's the real benchmark and would tell if this is a viable approach.
I love stuff like this, I canbuild or make just about anything except the electronic side of things. Thats by far my biggest weakness, I wish i could learn the electronic stuff. At my age college prob isn't feasible, plus im more of hands on learning. Never got much from schools just real life lessons, any suggestions for me?
I’m the same way, just find things your good at and hone your skills, don’t shoot for perfection on the first go around, building projects and tinkering are fun and a good way to learn problem solving. Hands on knowledge is powerful because most people lack that, so yea something like that
For me a lot started with magnetic induction because that kind of binds mechanics and electronics. The idea being cutting a magnetic field with a conductor produces power. So if you run a copper wire past a magnet you produce power. With north and south of a magnet you create a push pull effect (positive and negative), those alternative creating alternating current. Run alternating current through diodes (which you can think of as a check valve) to direct all the positive one direction and all the negative another direction. This makes a constant positive and negative know as dc current. Get your mind around all of those things and go from there. Magnetic induction is also how electric motors spin.
Then volts X amps = watts.
1 horsepower = 745 watts which is kind of a cool concept.
Which leads me to agree with the OP, find something that interests you and keep going. Power interests me and free or cheap or easily produced power really interests me so it's all things I want to learn. You sound like you're similarly minded. Everything is on TH-cam or online, you just have to spend a lot of time studying.
I had a decent concept of most electronics and learning all the options and ins and outs of solar took me an incredible amount of hours to learn and decide what I wanted for my own system. It all takes time...
pt 4 on used oil?
Smaller pulley is going to make more rpms. It will lose torque. Larger is going to be less rpm but more torque. Cool none the less. You should see if it will run that little welder.
Smaller drive pulley nets lower generator RPM, but more torque.
What type of mig welder brand you use?
Titanium from harbor freight
make a mud mower
#mikebuilds you could've made you braket like the altenator braket on a vehicle
What are your thoughts on using a MPPT charge controller for charging that battery?
I think that would work, I wanna try that next, I just hope it doesn’t try and pull too much power at once, a controller with adjustable power settings would be perfect
I used a Victron charge controller since that has a maximum output current setting. You could also try one of the Midnite Solar brand Charge Controllers. I think they offer an input current limiter, which would be a little better.@@Mikebuildss
@@Mikebuildss I have an HQST charge controller and it works really well for my 24V backup system. If you go 12V, the 40A version would be perfect as that will max out around 600-700W. For a relatively cheap MPPT, it works well and has pretty fast power tracking. It can only handle 100V input though so you'd have to keep that in check.
Might be a good idea to put a small smoothing capacitor on the rectifier output or it might make an MPPT do wacky things.
96 volt is perfect. use an MPPT solar controller input voltage up to 150V perfect to charge battery's
I would limit the amoerage to 30 amps max. 8 awg will easily handle 40 amps but its better to go to no more than 80% of the wires rated capacity if its going to be doing long sessions
Also going to advise you that 48V DC is a dangerous voltage. 12/24 is no problem as there's not enough power to breakdown the resistance in human skin but once you hit 36/48V, you need to be damned careful. DC voltages are unforgiving and it won't stop electrocuting you until the fuel or battery runs dry. Just some friendly safety advice
also add a belt tensioner
❤❤❤❤do it awesome 😊😊😊😊😊
prob should not charge directly from generator , get a 3phase wind controller and a 48v inverter. This is how most inverter generators works.
great videos. I have enjoyed them. But im 40 now and this whole working on the ground thing sucks ass lol. You need a bench. or some elevated platform.
Appreciate it! Yes sir trust me I feel it lol!
Imagine if you had as many followers as views
That’s my hope one day! I’m going to keep trying and improving to see where this goes! I appreciate the comment!
Hell yeah bro you think you can make me one of those generator things I got a motor let me know I'll pay you for the rest of it
OK🤔 ..BUT why not get a Chinese low RPM PERMANENT MAGNET generator and a charge controller ? Low Budget Build ? Cant spare the change ?
no you need check how much fuel it will draing for 1kw/h :3
never connect a generator directly to the battery, you always need a charge controller between the two
No you really don't as long as the battery has a BMS, the current that goes into the battery is RPM regulated, turn the hubmotor faster and it puts out more current and voltage.
2/3 of the rated power of the motor is the sweet spot to have good efficiency and run it cool~ish.
that is false !!! , the BMS is NOT a battery charge controller
@@danieltimisan6820 have you build one of these setups? Because I did, and you don't have to have a charge controller persé, just regulate the rpm to a certain current and voltage output that you want and it works perfectly like that, BMS is the ultimate protection for the battery if you would overcharge it.
I charge a 28kwh battery with exactly the same setup, diesel engine, hubmotor, 3 pH rectifier and shunt to monitor voltage and current, governor of the engine keeps it running on set RPM.
Point is without controller you are feeding a rectified sinus to the battery. So the battery is charging with peek currents twice a periode. Not really a DC voltage as there is no smoothing.
@@corborst4872if you are able to do something, it doesn’t mean you are doing it right … sorry but you are wrong, and I won’t argue with you
read about tail current , rated recommended charging curent , etc … your hub generator alone won’t be able to regulate many charging specs needed
If you really wanted to slow this process down by pulleys you would go with a larger one instead of a smaller one
Come on smalley pulley
You have lots of tools ? Really !,you don’t have an square?
You have an expensive trickle charger!
try to make a muffler
그냥 폐차에서 제네레이터를 사용해 그게빨라
Mounting it on steel is hopeless. It needs an aluminum plate. Your parts list is alien. They run fine with a 10SI alternator and a bigger pulley.
مازالة هاذهي المواطير لم تحظر فهي تسبب ضجيج للبيئه وتزعج الناس والحيوانات وكلشي حتمن هي مئذيه يجب حظرها على ايتي حال
You forgot one thing. This is a TH-cam. A scooter hub? A brittle steel frame arc welded? Permanent welds on a shaft? 40 odd volt output. Nothing here is going to get duplicated and nothing is useful. Why the manual start with a drill? I'd keep the motor and maybe the pulley and throw all that junk in a scrap pile because it's badly engineered, difficult to build and maintain, and it creates a freaky nonstandard voltage output. One more time: Useful to you. Useless to anybody else. Thumbs down for sharing bad judgement.
I can respect that, this is mostly made of trash and old parts,however entertainment, tinkering for fun and inspiring others to build and try new things is what I love about making videos. I want my viewers to see this and then go and try to build their own crazy contraptions that do things they want or serve their purpose. It’s the idea more than the process.