Swapping Our 1969 DODGE CHARGER to Evans Waterless Coolant; REAL Before & After Results
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2022
- Ever since our failed attempt at Hot Rod Power Tour, our 1969 Dodge Charger R/T "Brazen" has been running a little hotter than normal. We reached out to Evans Waterless Cooling and they suggested we flush all of the water out and run their waterless coolant instead. We show you how we did it, all of the steps and the REAL LIFE before-and-after results here!
Evans Waterless Cooling
www.evanscoolant.com/
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Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
I tried Evans got down to less than 1% water in the system. It is great because it has no pressure in the system and lubes the pump well but at the end of the day my 440 did not like running 20° hotter than it used to in summer heat. You have to have all the right combo of parts as well. Hard to runn at 220° in the summer. In the end I had to switch back.
OK that's interesting. Again, they say the coolant is hotter but the engine itself is cooler. They've got a lot of data on this that I researched. Did the 440 run worse?
The best thing to do as well as the evans is to modify the pump with a descent impeller. The factory pumps vary so much so get a new pump and pull the standard impeller then make up or have made by a descent machinist a proper impeller. You can test the standard pump in the car by taking the heater hoses off at the firewall then run those hoses into a bucket full of coolant then once the system is primed pull the flow hose out of the bucket and time the flow rate at 500rpm. It should be a MINIMUM of 10 liters per minute at 500. You can also check the quality of the flow and whether the coolant is full of bubbles which points to cavitation happening inside the pump or coolant passages. All of this is crucial as the engine is so much easier to tune once you achieve the minimum flow rate.
Interesting suggestion but we haven’t had a problem with our street driven 660HP stroker thus far. Seems a little overkill but worth looking into.
I did that with a Flowkooler pump. great product.
One thing that you didn't mention in purging the coolant from your system is to be sure and open the heater control to full and run the heater to be sure the heater core us fully drained. If you leave it closed, drain the water and add the Evans, as soon as you open your heater controls you'll introduce some of the old coolant into your new, expensive, cooling juice.
"It's the little things." 😉
Excellent comment!
I’m happy running it in my 69 Charger R/T SE.
Awesome!
I run it in my 84 Regal Grand National too. 'Hotair' Turbo car.
What thermostat are you running? I have a SBC 383 that I dropped in my square body have Evan’s coolant in it I havnt fired it up yet. But saw a video saying you can’t run a normal thermostat with this stuff..?
Evan's is effectively straight glycol (it's their own blend) but you can certainly run a standard thermostat. I've got a 190º, which is admittedly too high for my tastes, but it hasn't been a problem once. Also, this was done over a year before and just a couple of months ago I had an alternator lock up and kick the belt. Trying to limp the car home, I saw temps as high as 250º but had ZERO leaks because the Evans doesn't boil (pressurize), and MOST importantly, the coolant got that hot, but the engine did not. I swear to heaven above, this stuff saved my engine from blowing up.
I have a stroker motor also with mahle pistons and your engine seems to make that same loud mechanical noise. Is that piston slap? I believe the skirts on these Pistons perhaps are not quite long enough
I've ran the Power Paks on (4) engines now; the noise isn't the pistons but I believe it's the ATI "Rattler" damper I'm using. It's the noisiest thing I've every used. I also think the COMP roller rockers and lifters clatter quite a bit.
When you are purging the system...are you actually using a vacuum to suck the coolant out? Dis this drain the block too? Or did you open the block drains too? And the system took less than 3-gallons??? So without a heater core and hoses it may be just 2-gallons?
No, no. We put the vacuum hose on the exhaust, blowing air into the cooling circuit and purging any moisture out of the down tube/hose.
This is where a coolant exchange machine is very useful.
LOL you’re not wrong - just a lot of folks don’t have access to one.
@@moparconnection Which is probably why most people don't use it, if they have even heard of it.
I have had problem with boiling enduro motorbike. KTM EXC 300. It is tipical, when you ride short but intensive. No chance to cool it. Evanse solved my problem. I have good experienci with it and I am going to put it into my C3 corvette. No problem with overheatin. Only protection of the system and engine.
Nice! Glad to hear it
I run this in my cr250 because it does not corrode the magnesium in the engine!
Dude! That’s brilliant, I didn’t even consider magnesium.
If you get rid of the electric cooling fans, and install a 19 inch blade and a fan clutch then install a fan shroud you'll never have over heating problems again. I converted my 1969 road runner. And it never gets over 170
Not with this engine; too high of compression. That was the original setup; car absolutely boiled at every light. Original cooling parts only work best for original engines.
Not with this engine; too high of compression. That was the original setup; car absolutely boiled at every light. Original cooling parts only work best for original engines.
@@moparconnection mine was exactly opposite with a desert cooler radiator and a sixteen inch electric fan. If I slowed down below 40 mph my engine coolant temperature would climb to over 220 .
That makes sense, William. It’s all about the setup.
So if you spring a leak out on the road you will need some of this stuff to refill? I get the anti corrosion deal but I think that the fact that it is not something you are going to find along the road not to mention the high cost makes it a product I would run. It is cheaper and easier just to flush your system once a year. I know that they sponsored the video/magazine and provided all the product free which means you have to somewhat endorse it, but in this case I do not see this as a beneficial product overall, but hey some might.
No, no that's a fair question (and boy, do I wish they paid me for this video). You're right, if you manage to have a leaky system or blow a hose, you won't find Evans at most local parts stores. So it's not terribly convenient in that sense.
The hope is that you've resolved all of the leaks and you've got a sealed system prior to transitioning to Evans' waterless coolant but accidents do happen. The biggest benefit (in my view) is it being no pressure, meaning you can crack the radiator cap even when it's hot.
Pressure is what kills your cooling system, and this stuff doesn't do that. And no pressure means less likelihood of unexpected leaks - so there's that too. Again, the cost is because 1. it's a superior product and 2. you don't need to cycle it out as it will likely outlast most engines.
@@moparconnection Thanks for the response and I agree in concept with the benefits but have owned way too many classic cars to think that I'd never need coolant of some type on the road somewhere (radiator damage, hose breaking, etc.). The no pressure deal is interesting but I don't know how much importance I would place on it especially given a properly setup recovery system. Regardless, thanks for doing the video.
You bet - and all great points (and valid concerns for sure). Looks like I'm carrying a gallon with me in the trunk!
So I'm beginning to feel like my 67 belvedere II is close to being a unicorn. Any advice on where I can find parts? Please let me know.....
What are you looking for?
I need to find a windshield, any ideas
Depends in if you MUST have original glass or any windshield will do. Heck we just put new glass in our ‘69 Charger. It was cheap and easy, but it was modern stuff. Finding an original windshield is gonna be tougher.
Cheap and easy sounds fine to me; but I've seen all kinds of things for 68 and up I guess I'm looking in the wrong place.
We literally had ours installed by AutoGlass.com a little over a year ago. (And with tint!)
Well if your motor is running hotter all of a sudden it's not a coolant issue it's a cooling system issue. Either you need bigger capacity components, have a problem like a bad thermostat or water pump or you got a leak. Also, the motor runs hotter and is thicker so slower movement, harder on the water pump and can't reject heat like a thin 50/50 water/coolant mix.
All very good deductions! Thankfully, it's a 5-10º difference, but again as stated in the video, the actual engine itself is running the same temp. According to Evan's pages and pages of data testing and research, their proprietary glycol formula does a better job extracting (wicking) heat from the metal, meaning the temp sensor will read higher but the actual engine is remaining the same, if not cooler.
It is the same viscosity as water.
@@1darryloflife No it's not. It's thicker.
Coolant can’t cool when it’s boiling over and not in system also hot spots in heads from this boiling is what really hurts head gaskets and heads evans don’t boil till 375 degrees think about it it worked great on my dragster with small radiator and
1150 hp 632 on race gas Evan when it got hot no boiling leave fan and pump on it never hurt no air pockets no leaking no damage plenty of leeway before it boils
Again I’ll say it: this stuff saved my engine when the alternator burned up and kicked a belt on the freeway.
Evans will make it heat up more it will not protect the engine instead Evans will protect the cooling system hoses from pressure.
Absolutely incorrect. We only recently had an alternator seize up and kick a belt. We made it home without blowing any hoses or hydrolocking the engine. Yes, you’re right about zero pressure in the system, but Evans absolutely protected the engine. And for those who say their engine runs hotter; it’s the fluid that reads hotter not the engine itself - and that’s because it’s wicking heat better than water or 50/50.
@@moparconnection Evans will make the engine run 10 to 20 degrees hotter. Water has a higher specific heat capacity than Evans which is made of glycol. 50/50 is better at cooling. Because water can absorb and release heat more effectively than most other liquids. All Evans does is protect the hoses on the cooling system.
Yes your temp gauge reads 10-degrees higher but the gauge is reading the coolant’s temp not the engine block itself. A digital temperature gun will show otherwise. The Evans is extracting and regulating heat better than straight water. After my aforementioned failure, I reached out to Evans who provided all of the same testing data that earned them the place as the ONLY coolant allowed in NHRA and NASCAR. It’s legit stuff and most people freak only because they see the temp gauge climb.
Eh im not convinced that the engine runs cooler. Once it goes through the radiator it should cool down thus bring the engine temp down and ultimately the coolant should be cooler especially with a thermostat. Water picks up more heat than any coolant. But if the engine runs in correct operating temp than soundbite a winner. Also you could buy glycol for Refrigeration systems which is thinner than antifreeze and its probably the same exact stuff for much cheaper.
ITS A CHRYSLER IT WILL STILL BREAK DOWN
I think you're on the wrong channel! LOL
Check your engine oil temperature if you can. That will tell you the truth if it's working better than water type colant.
That's a fantastic suggestion!
Right on
Chrysler products won't warm up in winter and overheat in summer.
Funny, that’s never been the case with any of the cars we’ve had.
With Chrysler products it is a roll of the dice my wife had a 99 Plymouth breeze it was a very good car. Overall they seem to cut short on engineering and testing
So you're comparing this 535 cubic inch, 10-second '69 Charger to your wife's Plymouth Breeze?! LOL!
@@moparconnection no I never saw anything about a 535 cubic inch hot rod I meant what I said every now and then you get a good Chrysler product. Again every now and then. What really turned me aginst Chrysler products was a 1956 Plymouth a family member owned new back then chrome plated pot metal who ever produced that car should have been locked up and the person that purchased would not have known what quality was if it walked up and bit them in the you know what!
Gotcha