A few things, that we need to clear up, a shorter stroke actually has a slower piston speed then with a longer stroke. Next both the stock 400 and 440 have a good rod ratio of 1.8 . Lastly whether the 400 block is stronger is all conjecture. There is no proof. The older 440 blocks had a higher nickel content which made them stronger. Have thicker main webs is nice but I've never see a failure in that area. I'm more concerned with bore thickness. So you guys that start stroking the 400 engines are defeating the benefits of a longer rod. If you want the cubic inches, stick with the 440. Also the Chrysler cylinder heads to don't flow enough to take advantage of more cubic inches.
@Quiet-storm block strength has been proven a few times. 440 source has a good write-up you can reference. Nickel content has been all over the map. Inconclusive there. Most reputable engine builders would argue that the 451 (400 block with 3.75" stroke) offers the best benefits of any mopar big block configuration. Lots to be desired with factory heads. Aftermarket units today mitigate any of those concerns.
@@sorta_stock those engine builders are wrong. You are changing the rod ratio when you put the longer stroke crank in the shorter deck block. You know have to use a shorter rod which has a negative effect on engine dynamics. Such as a shorter dwell time and increased piston friction. Anything but the B1 head has flow that a 440 cubic inch engine can easily handle. What I mean by that is that volumetric efficiency is still achieved in an a reasonable RPM range. That's why you can have a 300 cubic inch engine making 800 hp. They just need to spin the engine higher to make up for the cubic inches. Within reason your major limiting factor is cylinder head flow and not cubic inches.
@@Quiet-storm While I'm actually with you on long rod there are benefits to a short rod too. It does all you said but it also makes a lot more bottom end tq and power. While friction goes up so does piston speed in the beginning of the intake stroke. For instance trail bikes it's super popular to do this so its better hopping logs etc. it does hurt top end and engine life if you try to rev it. But if you need a tq monster and you don't plan on reving it past 5krpm you won't notice the difference in engine life. You will on where it makes power though. Now if your boosting it long rods are a no brainer for lots of reasons but the tq increase once were pushing cylinder pressures.
In my family an uncle left me an my brothers a 1971 Dodge D100 Power Wagon, he bought new for hunting and plowing his properties. Now I’ve never heard of a “cold weather block” 400, but this truck has a 400 V8, with a 4 brl carb and HD Torque Flite trans and 2speed transfer. Plus 3:55 posi gears. It was very well cared for with very few city miles, mostly highway miles between R.I. and northern Maine. Always washed off underneath and kept clean. But does have the original paint, with some light rust. We were always disappointed it didn’t have a 440, but now I know better! Next time I’m in town I’m going to take a good look! At the casting numbers.
Ok here we are 1 year later and I have just returned from up north to visit family. I’m so proud of my youngest brother! Because he has the truck in a very nice garage, with the body down to bare metal and the chassis all rebuilt and painted. But it’s the engine that is the best thing, because it’s been checked at a local machine shop and is a 400 cold weather block, that my uncle knew about when he bought ordered the truck. But never did anything to it. But my brother is sparing no expense to get a nice high power engine out of it. I can’t wait to see and drive next year!
Had a friend that found that out one day at the strip, he is long gone so I don't remember all the details, but he went from a loser to a winner just by turning the distributor.
Thanks for the shoutout! Lots of great info here! They’re super underrated engines. People think they have to stroke them all. Not the case! I’m ready to rev and take one to 500hp! 🤞🏻
Building this 400 close to hemi specs. It’s now a 426 stroker with closed chamber aluminum heads and a purple shaft cam. I’m about to post the final assembly video
Good stuff man! I've been preaching up the 400 for years. Absolutely love them. 400 block, 383 steel crank, lightweight rods and pistons, heads that breathe... Hang on to your butt! 😎
The crank standing up next to the block is actually a steel 383 crank. I was contemplating just turning the rod journals down for a slight increase in stroke.
@@sorta_stock that could be cool. Last one I built was .060 over with 383 crank. H beams and Ross pistons. Roller cam & rockers. 411 CI that would turn 8500 all day without breaking a sweat. 😎
Yes I have high hopes for mine. I'm getting old and I guess lazy my missed shifts tend to be comical.Bam ok I have a gear... Which way the hell am I going. That kind of thing. The 340 was stupid that way. It just didn't quit
Thanks for the informative video! Reading thru the comments I've learned even more. Well I'll go check the 400 engine I have that a guy sold me years ago. Oh yea I sold a water pump off an old block I'll check that one too. Picked up a 65 .030 over 383 that had 906 heads with fresh big valve heads. Never fired. Then theres that 68 IMPERIAL 440 2dr ht. Thats been serving 25 years. Not to mention the 67 dart that is back halfed narrow dana 60 .. You mentioned the 5.2 magnum . Been a fan of the magnum since 97. When I bought my first 96 Dodge reg cab short bed but 5.9 I do have a few cool parts for those. M1 intakes. Those work great. Took the 96 dodge to a best of 14.42 @95 mph with a xrock torque converter. Love the 3.92 gears in those magnums with the OD trans. Especially the pre 96 trans the 3 wire hook up. But at 72, I need to reconsider what to do with this stuff. They're closing the track near by . Never been a fan of 1/8 mile. Took my 69 Road Runner to a best of 10.69 at 124.7 back in 1984. 4 spd. Thanks again for the info . I'll be checking today on the 400s
Those 906 heads on a built 400 stuffed into your 67 dart would be a top contender at the strip. The 5.2 magnum I currently have in my 68 dart has really impressed me. I’m taking it to Duct Tape Drags in Tucson, AZ next month.
Also look at the main bearings especially where the thrust bearing is and if the webbing is as thick or almost as thick all the way to the cam bore and the sides of the block you have a good one that can handle some horsepower, best place to find them is in school busses and motor homes or stationary industrial applications like big generators and irrigation pumps
Yup. Low deck Stroker power. I had a Demon with a 451 stroker - 400 block with 440 steel crank, ran 10s, shifting at 7500 rpm. They love to rev and they love solid cams. True weapons!
I graduated HS in 1965! Loved those big block days! Many year subscriber to Motor Trend in those years.... Chrysler ruled NASCAR back then, kicking serious tail in the races until NASCAR went political and mandated restrictor plates.... still burns me up to remember that!!!
I'm almost 60 years old and I have been a MOPAR fanatic since I was a kid. I have owned 318's, a 340, Slant Sixes (love them) and even a 273, but today I learned something new! Good info and a great channel.
Thanks for bringing up the subject. The 400 Mopar is or has been over looked for the more popular 440 for many years now. 400 regarded as a smog engine. While the intended use of this engine was for a different purpose than what we think about doing today with these engines. This engine has some of the best stock block potential as anything ever made out of Detroit. The engine can be a real performer on any stage. But the Street Fighter occasional drag race is the category that I for one seeing it competing in. Has something for everyone. I am thinking a 400 stroker I.E. 451 is this 1st if not the last choice. Well build choices is a subject for another day. Anyway great video. Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed. I think the 451 combo is one of the best mopar strokers out there. I already have a forged 383 crank so, a 418ci would be pretty easy to build
Had a couple 451s not in Darts….one with Indy aluminum heads with solid roller and it was a screamer. Even the 451 with factory steel ported heads and just solid flat tappet was a screamer.
That 400 would be great in that ‘77-‘78 Powerwagon that was pictured for a moment. A long time ago, 1978 to be exact, I bought a ‘73 Plymouth Fury that was a former cop car. It had a 400 with the 727 Trans. It had the factory dual exhaust as a lot of them did with the 400-440’s. As it turned out it was just as fast out of the hole as a friends ‘72 Fury, former State Patrol Car with a 440. Not to long after getting it, the second gear band in the Torque Flite snapped, which was no surprise considering the Department that owned it prior, but once the 727 was rebuilt with a shift kit, ect, it held its own with the ‘72 Fury’s around town, not to mention the occasional Camaro or Mustang. However a guy had a 340 Duster that launched pretty strong from the start, but once the big Fury got the RPM’s up it would end up pushing the Duster down the road!
Great video great info! Building a 400 right now. Yes, the 400 is the way to go. I've been on the lookout for a 230 block, but I'm on Maui so chances are slim to none here. Hehe. Goodluck with your build.
@@MrJohnnyDistortiongo to the 440 source website and read their block guide. The bigger saddle 440s are only in '76 and newer casting and not all of them have it. The only way to tell is to completely tear down the block and see it with the crank out. Good luck. 440 source info also has plenty of pictures to show you where to look for the differences. Good luck!✌️
@@frigglebiscuit7484go to the 440 source website and look at their block info guide. All pre '76 are the same in saddle casting. Only some '76 and newer have the larger cast and you can't tell with tearing the engine down. They have plenty of pictures there to show you the difference
Yes one of my buddies has a 400 based block in a pro street pulling struck. Stretched out to 470 inch and turns 9500 rippms. It's definitely an enemy with the other guys
I, at one time was going to build a 400 block and keep its stock short stroke but use a set of 440 4bbl rods with a set of custom forged Ross pistons. The longer 440 rods create an even 2.0 rod length to crank stroke ratio. I've read several times that that is what Mopar Performance considers to be the most optimal performance rod ratio. Big bore, short stroke, long rod, = an engine that will rev to the moon, love doing it, and last forever doing it..... Then I was going to use an electronic fuel injection system with a twin turbo set-up on it, just to make it really good and fun.
That’s where I was going with this engine. Thought was to grind the forged 383 crank’s rod journals down to 2.2 (Chevy) and use a longer rod and stroker piston. It would increase the displacement to 418 while achieving a 2.0 rod ratio.
Yes, ok I see, and increase the stroke when you're regrinding the rod journals. It's kinda been 25 years since I've been into building hot rods (lost my license and therefore almost lost my will to live), but I remember reading something about using 198 slant 6 rods in a big block, because if I remember correctly, those rod journals are the same size. Don't hold me to that though, lol.
@@ericwilson2585 I’ll have to look into the 198 rods. Sorry to hear about the license. As a hot rodder, I can only imagine the struggle. Hopefully you stayed in the community as there are many ways to still enjoy these beautiful machines.
This is something know one seems to understand the longer rod of the 440 makes it a superior engine to the 400 all else being equal. A longer rod reduces frictional forces and piston speed therfore improving horsepower. I'm a mechanical engineer and it's funny to see all these people hyping up the 400 ci engine and not understanding engine dynamics.
Ive been a big mopar fan for years until recently ive started gravitating into the ls crowd. I cant tell you how many 400s ive had and overlooked. The one that i recall most was My 73 charger se brougham,had the 400, 727 factory AC, moonroof car. Bucket seats power windows. Etc. paid 1200 bucks for it in 08. Put a fuel pump in it and it ran. I never got to drive it as it was stolen later on
@79tazman ...yeah I watched a 400 big block run high 9's in the quarter mile a few years ago in a Duster & that was a pump gas combination... I think he had 3.91 gears in a 8.75 rear... I remember asking the owner some questions about it that day... definitely impressed by that Duster
You're right got a 400 stroke to 451 enderly stud girdle 12.5 co with B1 Heads 760 roller in a 75 duster 940s all day constantly naturally aspirated looking to get in the high 8s
i have a 73 400 in my 4 speed 70 dart. came out of a monaco police car. oil pan even had a baffle in it. stock pistons, small plug motorhome heads with coolant ports around the spark plugs(bowl ported), 383 steel crank, lunati voodoo flat tappet cam (268/276, 494/513 lift, 110 lsa), stock rockers, and a weiand stealth intake. thing is terrifying.
Recently acquired a 69 Cuda coup ,ran the numbers, came back a 361, asking around, supposedly came stock, motor looks fresh outside and in, runs amazing. I never heard of this engine. Body itself has had 6 or 7 colors, faded, great patina, makes me think old race car, only very light body damage so far. I need down pipes, any suggestions where to acquire?
I have a 230 block with a 10/07/71 casting date WITHOUT the bigger saddles. Ive been pulling 230 blocks since '98 and have found several October blocks without them. Ive never found a September or earlier block without them. Also, I have noticed that the overwhelming majority of the early 230 blocks will have a June casting date. Happy hunting! ✌️
My 471 made 580 RWHP on pump gas turns to 7000 rpm with a somewhat mild hydraulic roller 252/254 cam in my 66 Belvedere. Jesse from skmfx has been building killer 400 base strokers since the late 90’s
580RWHP is crazy good. That’s essentially hellcat power in a streetable big block. Most of the new muscle crowd would struggle to drive a car with that much power and no electronic assistance
I've personally have watched a factory long block 40p with 12lbs of boost run low 11's high 10's for a decade straight. No one built a big block better than mopar
Great video. Whatever gets it done for you! Some guys like the Big Blocks some guys like the small blocks. Others the Slant six. I've always been a 440 + 6 guy. . Good luck with your projects out there!
I have a 64 440 with a stock 1974 big block 400 from a truck and I can barely keep it under control. Instant burnout machine. I need a sure grip asap just so I can concentrate on the other things it may need. Street car so probably no other modifications to the engine. Plan on a new Tourqueflight , get rid of the push button shifter ,and new wiring and it’s done… 400 cu……. Massive power plant. Good for street.
400s rock. I've had 4 of em. One was from a 72 Polara, but I hopped it up and put it in my 68 Charger. Great motors. With a valve spring upgrade and a cam, they'll turn 6000 all day. I've always wanted to build a 400 long rod motor, using 440 rods: 3.38 stroke and 6.768 rods = a 2:1 rod ratio!
Dude the 451 and 470 stroker combos have got to be the best builds for a street/strip car. Good rod ratio, excellent part availability, decent piston skirt length, etc. hope you dyno that 451 when it’s done!
It’ll be a while but yes i will. I’ll be lookin for 650ish streetable hp. I have the 440 forged crank and H beam rods and a 400 block. I believe it’s a ‘72 block.
We built an engine about 25-30 years ago using a 400-block bored .060 over. Offset ground 440 crank, BBC rods and 455 Buick pistons. 466 cubes, 13.75 to 1 C/R. Comp solid roller cam. Wish we could have found better heads for it. Good Super Gas motor, though.
Great video I cannot stand 383 I never liked it never will… I still think the V 10 that’s in a viper is the best motor ever made only because it is so bulletproof and now you made me a believer of the 400 being a great as well.
There were a lot of good running 383's back in the day and it was common to see one blow the doors off a 440 and they were durable as well, can't understand why one would not like them.
I would have a better chance of going to the desert in Arizona and wishing for a falling star to put me out of my search for that gem, thanks for reminding me!
Thanks man! I just finished building the 400 block discussed in this video. Build series is posted on the channel. Looking to fire it up in the next few weeks.
I have a 1978 D150 with a 360 in it and a 1972 New Yorker with a 400 in it...I have been looking for a Hemi combo to put in the truck. Instead of ditching both running motors I've decided to swap them and build up the truck. Both cars are extremely clean one from Wisconsin with the 400 garage kept for 30 years not driven and the truck from California.
Great vid. I had forgotton about the cold weather 400. IMO,a 400 is the best of both worlds,being oersquare as you stated AND you can line bore a 400 out to take a 440 steel crank (i much prefer this route rather than cutting down a good 440 crank down to 400 main size) BUT either way you get a big inch big block that will REV while still maintaining the desire oversquare architecture.
I’d be curious to hear if anyone experienced adverse effects from line boring to the 440 crank size as opposed to turning the crank down. The block has a ton of material but, I wonder if the caps would become a limiting factor with the bore.
@@sorta_stock I have done the 440 crank in 400 block combo in 5 or 6 engines & they have all been 550 HP & below street engines & never had any issues with a 6200 RPM redline. My machinist is the one who advised me that the 400 block could stand being line bored out to 440 main size way better than risking turning a 440 crank mains down to 400 size. Higher HP's & power adders could cause issues,i just don't know.
Richard Ehrenberg prefers cutting the block, because crankshaft strength isn't just the material, but the overlap of the journals. its why increasing stroke length often leads to bigger mains (on say Pontiac 455 or chevy 400 small block). about the only issue is you'll move the crank up closer to the cam so there may be some slack in a timing chain and the piston will be closer to 0 deck at TDC than before. You may not have the redline capacity of the B block, but the increase in displacement is just shifting the torque curve lower in the RPM spread--gear accordingly and it may be a great way to use an automatic trans on the street, since you'll probably run a lower stall speed and thus less heat.
I don't have a cold weather block, but I do have three 400's, 7 440's, 7 383's, 3 340's and on and on. What I don't have is what I want, a 426 Hemi, had one once and never had anything else that even came close to it in performance.
I plan to build a 400 , I have 2 . I also have a set of 69 440 hp closed chamber heads . Block, heads, mild cam should be a good runner. Can't wait to find out
I’ll be assembling this 400 in the next few months. Lookin forward to strapping it on the dyno 👍🏻. If you upload any videos of your 400 once it’s built please tag me!
I think if you do some checking, those closed chamber heads are 1967, casting number 2780915, if they are closed chamber and that is not the casting number then they are not 440 HP heads.
never knew this i have a factory 400 in a 74 crewcab d200 adventurer original but rough right now. but pulling it to put a cummins in it. but since i was gonna pull it i was gonna put it in my 75 d200 custom that i had i bought for the box so guess i'll check it when i disassembled it.
No argument on this video. "440 Source" has posted a detailed explanation on the Low Deck 400's strengths over it's kin; the 383 and even the mighty 440 at least a decade ago The Main Webbing areas on the 400 are significantly thicker compared to the the 383 and 440's making it a better candidate for high power builds, especially in the case of a 495 + CID Stroker application. So let's see the advantages..... • Bigger Bore • Shorter/lighter weight piston (wrist pin thru the Oil Ring is another topic) • Shorter Pushrods • Stronger (cold weather) Blocks • Shorter Deck Height Undersquare, Square or Oversquare, I like the Low Deck 400. Chrysler knew exactly what they were doing and developed maximum potential as a foundational blueprint in every engine they designed. PS: Good luck finding any production Chrysler Block that sonic checks over .220 The foundry may have been generous with high nickel content, but thick bore sleeves was not apparent, it seems. If someone has proven otherwise, please post.
@67dodgepolara ... 273/318/340 all had a 3.31" stroke spec (stock)... the 383/400 had a 3.38" stroke ...really not a big difference in spec when you think about it... only .07" inch
I built a 400 block stroked to 511-518 with B1 heads and i filled the bottom with hardblock up to the freeze plugs with 4 bolt mains from pro gram specialist, 1050 Dominator and 23/8 primarys 15:5-1 compression made 928 HP 800 torque at Koffles dyno great motor lasted until i sold it, BM rods alum the weakest part is the deck will leak
@@sorta_stock Always! I was in high school. It was long wheel base, extended rear, no windows, former Air force Police van. I traded it for a 76 dodge 300 4x4, 4 door. An oak tree in a blind corner at 70 ended that truck.
oh yeah, they had the nickname "baby Hemi", and not because they were like the Poly 318. I grew up in the snow belt, but hotrodders wanting their muscle car to be an everyday summer car often figured out what a good small block in an economy car could accomplish. with a 4 speed and the right gears, you could do better than a big block's 8-15 mpg, handle in the corners, and swap to a shorter rear tire at the strip and get 13's or better with a power adder (ie, NOS). In my time, the real trick was to find an early 360--it had the 340's water jackets so you could bore past 4.04 inches and get 379 cid, and the heads had 340 ports just smaller valves. find an OEM 340 intake and you had nice affordable street performance with the right cam.
All 1972 4 barrel 400's came with forged steel crankshafts, while most 2 barrel 1972 400's got cast Ron crankshafts. For 1973, only manual transmission 400's got forged steel crankshafts and automatics got cast iron crankshafts. For 1974 through 1978, both manual and automatic transmission 400's got cast iron crankshafts.
I had a 76 powerwagon with a 400. Are those blocks any good for strength? Just asking because I was curious about dropping one in a 74 swinger to be a street/strip car. What kind of intake would all of you suggest? I was thinking about a tunnel ram but I don't know. I love mopars. I just want to learn from experienced people. Thanks.
Any 400 will make a great foundation for a build. Especially in an A-body. Just gotta ditch the emissions equipment, bump up compression, and let the thing breathe.
I have a 400 in my 1974 Charger SE and thought about doing a build from 440 Source. I thought it would be cool to have a 510 c.i.d. fuel injected big block in my car......just an idea 💯😎
@@sorta_stock I'd also thought about just doing a stock rebuild but with tighter tolerances and a couple uograded parts like long tube headers, better heads and cam. This car is just a cruiser.
@@218422100 For a cruiser, I think a 451 stroker is probably the best combo out there. They make great power, have all the reliability of a stock 440, and can take a lot of abuse. All in a smaller and lighter package
I just sub your channel so I can watch your build although I’m doing a 68 440 block that’s standard bore so I got it for a grand a horse deal about a thousand I payed I hope my 68 block was for a 68 super bee it’s been stored from day one
@@sorta_stock yes both. Current one in the Jackpine Savage is 493 stroked eddelbrock heads, mild cam. Dynoed on 91 octane. First one was 512 Stroker with trick flow 270s flat tappet cam. Both run on pump gas.
Yep, i got one. the problem was they (TTI )dont make a 2 inch header for A-BODY that fits , im not going to cut my car up for headers, so its a 416 for me. why not use a V-10 Truck block and headers? the heads are same just not aluminum?
Yeah headers are always an issue with our A-bodies. I’ll never go Hedman long tubes again (even with a small block). The heads and headers from the truck v10 are not interchangeable with the viper. They’re based on the same stroke and bore but, are pretty different from each other.
From what I understand and have seen there's 3 different web thicknesses in the 400's. I've built a 470 on one of the medium thickness ones. Eddy heads milled a little bit. Step dish pistons creating 10.6-1 compression with a 520s lift 240s duration cam. That thing is stout with torque and revs to 6500 like it's nothing. I can only imagine how the short stroke would rev.
Even the thinner castings make amazing platforms. Still thicker than a 383. This 400-based 426 is now in my Ramcharger. Revs like a 340 and feels like it's got an easy 450whp.
They just need a little compression. Years ago Hot Rod (?) Magazine featured a build that used a pop-up 440 pistons and made 650ish HP with a tunnel ram.
OK, got a question. Never heard of the term cold weather block. In the small block world truck engines (318, 360) were supposed to be cast from hi nickel iron and designated with a dash 3 at the end of the engine size cast into the block. What about 400 truck engines? Truck engines as in motor homes & heavy trucks (1 ton jobs). Did they do the hi nickel thing on them also and if so what was the designation? Asking for someone who has little experience with big blocks - - - - -me.
The general consensus is that pre-1974 big blocks came with the higher nickel content. The nickel wasn’t looked at as a strengthening component. Instead, it was used to resist corrosion in the block. Just so happened to benefit the strength as well. Lots of people have tested the theory and determined negligible results between years with the exception of marine blocks and cold weather blocks.
What it like getting the 400 into A bodies? I recall from years ago, running long tube headers was out of the question? I live in Oz and most of the cars were A's, as far as I know. Cheers.
hedman b body long tubes fit if you use a automatic and manual steering. you have to dent the tube where the bearing in the column is, and around the steering box. i have no idea if it fits a manual. when i put them in my 70 dart with a 400 and 4 speed, we'll see.
I don’t believe the 400s used in motor homes were any different. A lot of the design changes the 440s experienced (coolant flow changes) we’re already implemented in the 400’s design from the start. 440 source has a really good write up discussing the different 400 casting numbers compared to all the other big block Mopars.
Usually but not always. One of my best friends had a 73 Road Runner with the 400 and 4 speed options. That car was no joke. At the time I was rolling a 70 Mach 1 351c 4 speed. Not much on the street at the time would give that Stang a run for it's money but that Road runner def did. Of course we're not talking "stock" for either car. ;)
actual compression ratio of a 400 was a pitefull 7.7:1. advertised compression was 8.2:1 which does not compute when you do the math. factory cams were very low lift also. give a 400 9:1 compression and some reasonable valve lift and it will outrun most 383s.
I know many folks remember these 400s as dogs but, they just never had a chance to shine. Just fired up the 400 I highlighted in this video. Decided on an aluminum headed 426 stroker out of it. Tossed it in my 77 Ramcharger of all things.
Have a '72 Dodge motorhome that has a 400 in it with a block heater. Would that be a cold weather block? It's only got 137,000 mi on it. Just waiting for the right body to put it into.
No such thing as a cold weather block, but if you want the big saddle casting 400, it has to have a casting ending in 230 with a casting date before October '71
You can punch a 400 block to a .030 over 440 piston, take a light cut off the top of these .030 over cast 440 pistons, with this you can run a set of 906 heads and Cometic has head gaskets in all kinds of thickness so you can set the compression where you want it and still be pretty cheap overall. Take carefulmeasurements because you will start with the piston out the top of the bore but in 69 some 383s came with pistons sticking out also and they ran up into the open chamber 906 heads. This is just a cheap way to build compression. Hard to do it with a 383, just got to bore it too far for most castings.
I didn't ever get much experience with mopars. I had an uncle with a yellow 340 duster, that was mildly built, but it seemed like a rocket when I was a kid. Me and my dad ended up dragging a 62 Chrysler 300 hard top home when I was 14. Fresh points, new coil, and a set of wires and boom, off she went. But the floors were gone, no brakes, no trunk floor....it wasn't great. But a guy offered us 1000 bucks and I bought an 84 Chevy Caprice that ran and drove. Looking back I wish I would have stuck with that Chrysler a little longer. Factory torque numbers were ridiculous (480 ft lbs with 330 hp on single and 380 on dual carb) 413 single afb wedge, 727 torque flight, 373 8 3/4 rear with a pinion snubber. And a 140 mph speedo under a fish bowl that all lit up blue. But in 2000 it was just an ugly old car to most people.
Chyrsler put the same heads on every single big block year to year. What I mean is, a 1971 383 or 440, or 400 would all have the same head on them. This also means any head that fit on a 440 or 383 all the way back into the 60's through the late 70's when they quit making them will fit. The difference in heads is two things: Late 60's had higher compression, a few years had smaller valves. Early 70's the compression changed and they got hardened vale seats for no lead gas. After that is the "452" casting, which was on every big block until the end of production. Most people will say bolt on performance is best with the higher compression heads, but they will also say not having hardened valve seats is a waste of time so just get some 452's and port them a little. So the heads on the cold weather block are already exactly the same as the same year head off a 440.
@@davenhla Thanyou for that information! Reason I asked is that several years ago I had some 440 heads ported, polished and cc’d, had stainless steel valves with triple cut on the exhaust and five cuts on the intakes with triple springs and retainers, but never completed the process because I wrecked the 383 Road Runner I was going to build up the engine in!
Only '67 and earlier 915 and 516 heads are higher compression. Deck height of pistons changed in '68. Swapping a '67 or earlier head to later block only made a noticeable gain on engines equiped with HP pistons and rods. Once into the smogger years it was such a small difference you could bolt 1 516 or 915 on one bank and it wouldn't change the driving characteristics of the engine at all. It only shifted compression a 1/4 point at best
In the Mopar industry some people called this engine the Rodney Dangerfield of the big blocks because it got no respect in my opinion this engine deserves its respect because hell I had a 400 you know in a 75 and a 75 roadrunner that I put in myself and I had fun with that motor good good strong good strong foundation you know I didn't have to put any hard block in it only made 400 horsepower out that motor but I had fun so if you're going to build a 400 go ahead build one make a hand me killer work for me holla if you hear me
@@derrictaylor1181 If it’s already got a small block, I’d stick with the 360/408. Saves you from replacing your transmission. Plus, they’ve got plenty of torque to scoot a w150 along.
People don't realise the "OG" original 400 Shallow deck R height with the big bore wall thickness block was a planned ball stud Hemi base. It did everything the Ford 400 and 351M couldn't do...that is, it was Reliable, Crack Free and don't forget, 255 HP net was an R and Q code 1972 and 73-74 Cleveland HO or later CJ 351 figure ( 261, 266, 275, then another rating for 73 and 74, which eclipsed Every other Ford Big Block and almost all the other Big Blocks except the SD 455 for 1973). The Mopar big block isn't a dopey thinwall Henry. Ford didn't make a cold Weather block 351M or 400 untill 1978. Ford improved it, but Never Fixed it. Chrysler Corp didn't really screw over the 400 Big Blocks.
If you’re new to the channel please hit that subscribe button 😁. Gona be spanking a 383 with a turbo 318 soon 👍🏻
A few things, that we need to clear up, a shorter stroke actually has a slower piston speed then with a longer stroke. Next both the stock 400 and 440 have a good rod ratio of 1.8 . Lastly whether the 400 block is stronger is all conjecture. There is no proof. The older 440 blocks had a higher nickel content which made them stronger. Have thicker main webs is nice but I've never see a failure in that area. I'm more concerned with bore thickness. So you guys that start stroking the 400 engines are defeating the benefits of a longer rod. If you want the cubic inches, stick with the 440. Also the Chrysler cylinder heads to don't flow enough to take advantage of more cubic inches.
@Quiet-storm block strength has been proven a few times. 440 source has a good write-up you can reference. Nickel content has been all over the map. Inconclusive there. Most reputable engine builders would argue that the 451 (400 block with 3.75" stroke) offers the best benefits of any mopar big block configuration. Lots to be desired with factory heads. Aftermarket units today mitigate any of those concerns.
@@sorta_stock those engine builders are wrong. You are changing the rod ratio when you put the longer stroke crank in the shorter deck block. You know have to use a shorter rod which has a negative effect on engine dynamics. Such as a shorter dwell time and increased piston friction. Anything but the B1 head has flow that a 440 cubic inch engine can easily handle. What I mean by that is that volumetric efficiency is still achieved in an a reasonable RPM range. That's why you can have a 300 cubic inch engine making 800 hp. They just need to spin the engine higher to make up for the cubic inches. Within reason your major limiting factor is cylinder head flow and not cubic inches.
@@Quiet-storm While I'm actually with you on long rod there are benefits to a short rod too. It does all you said but it also makes a lot more bottom end tq and power. While friction goes up so does piston speed in the beginning of the intake stroke. For instance trail bikes it's super popular to do this so its better hopping logs etc. it does hurt top end and engine life if you try to rev it. But if you need a tq monster and you don't plan on reving it past 5krpm you won't notice the difference in engine life. You will on where it makes power though. Now if your boosting it long rods are a no brainer for lots of reasons but the tq increase once were pushing cylinder pressures.
400 block + 440 crank + good heads = 452ci of big Mopar goodness.
My first B body had this set up in it….
And the piston is very short and very light. Should rev quick, like a 340.😊
In my family an uncle left me an my brothers a 1971 Dodge D100 Power Wagon, he bought new for hunting and plowing his properties. Now I’ve never heard of a “cold weather block” 400, but this truck has a 400 V8, with a 4 brl carb and HD Torque Flite trans and 2speed transfer. Plus 3:55 posi gears. It was very well cared for with very few city miles, mostly highway miles between R.I. and northern Maine. Always washed off underneath and kept clean. But does have the original paint, with some light rust. We were always disappointed it didn’t have a 440, but now I know better! Next time I’m in town I’m going to take a good look! At the casting numbers.
You would be surprised at what simply advancing the timing will do for that 400.
a simple bigger cam and advanced timing will make it a screamer.
Ok here we are 1 year later and I have just returned from up north to visit family. I’m so proud of my youngest brother! Because he has the truck in a very nice garage, with the body down to bare metal and the chassis all rebuilt and painted. But it’s the engine that is the best thing, because it’s been checked at a local machine shop and is a 400 cold weather block, that my uncle knew about when he bought ordered the truck. But never did anything to it. But my brother is sparing no expense to get a nice high power engine out of it. I can’t wait to see and drive next year!
Had a friend that found that out one day at the strip, he is long gone so I don't remember all the details, but he went from a loser to a winner just by turning the distributor.
My friend built me a 400 stroker to 451, that was the best strongest Mopar I ever drove, had it in a 1977 Power wagon shortbed loved it
I have a 76 w200 powerwagon big block 4 speed that will be getting the same stroker
Thanks for the shoutout! Lots of great info here! They’re super underrated engines. People think they have to stroke them all. Not the case! I’m ready to rev and take one to 500hp! 🤞🏻
I ran a 400, with 67 closed chamber heads and a "Hemi" cam. It was a fantastic engine.
Building this 400 close to hemi specs. It’s now a 426 stroker with closed chamber aluminum heads and a purple shaft cam. I’m about to post the final assembly video
Good stuff man! I've been preaching up the 400 for years. Absolutely love them. 400 block, 383 steel crank, lightweight rods and pistons, heads that breathe... Hang on to your butt! 😎
The crank standing up next to the block is actually a steel 383 crank. I was contemplating just turning the rod journals down for a slight increase in stroke.
@@sorta_stock that could be cool. Last one I built was .060 over with 383 crank. H beams and Ross pistons. Roller cam & rockers. 411 CI that would turn 8500 all day without breaking a sweat. 😎
Heads that breathe ? Which aftermarket heads are you talking about ?
Yes I have high hopes for mine. I'm getting old and I guess lazy my missed shifts tend to be comical.Bam ok I have a gear... Which way the hell am I going. That kind of thing. The 340 was stupid that way. It just didn't quit
@@mitchellferre1652 Indy
Thanks for the informative video! Reading thru the comments I've learned even more. Well I'll go check the 400 engine I have that a guy sold me years ago. Oh yea I sold a water pump off an old block I'll check that one too. Picked up a 65 .030 over 383 that had 906 heads with fresh big valve heads. Never fired. Then theres that 68 IMPERIAL 440 2dr ht. Thats been serving 25 years. Not to mention the 67 dart that is back halfed narrow dana 60 ..
You mentioned the 5.2 magnum . Been a fan of the magnum since 97. When I bought my first 96 Dodge reg cab short bed but 5.9 I do have a few cool parts for those. M1 intakes. Those work great. Took the 96 dodge to a best of 14.42 @95 mph with a xrock torque
converter. Love the 3.92 gears in those magnums with the OD trans. Especially the pre 96 trans the 3 wire hook up.
But at 72, I need to reconsider what to do with this stuff. They're closing the track near by . Never been a fan of 1/8 mile. Took my 69 Road Runner to a best of 10.69 at 124.7 back in 1984. 4 spd. Thanks again for the info . I'll be checking today on the 400s
Those 906 heads on a built 400 stuffed into your 67 dart would be a top contender at the strip. The 5.2 magnum I currently have in my 68 dart has really impressed me. I’m taking it to Duct Tape Drags in Tucson, AZ next month.
Also look at the main bearings especially where the thrust bearing is and if the webbing is as thick or almost as thick all the way to the cam bore and the sides of the block you have a good one that can handle some horsepower, best place to find them is in school busses and motor homes or stationary industrial applications like big generators and irrigation pumps
true, a low RPM engine with fleet maintenance...score! :)
Yup. Low deck Stroker power. I had a Demon with a 451 stroker - 400 block with 440 steel crank, ran 10s, shifting at 7500 rpm. They love to rev and they love solid cams. True weapons!
These beasts stuffed in an A-Body are truly a weapon on the street!
@@sorta_stock Hard to beat those rod angles.. Pedal to the metal!
I graduated HS in 1965! Loved those big block days! Many year subscriber to Motor Trend in those years.... Chrysler ruled NASCAR back then, kicking serious tail in the races until NASCAR went political and mandated restrictor plates.... still burns me up to remember that!!!
NASCAR was owned by GM back then and I think it switches back and forth from GM to Toyota now, depends on car sales.
I'm almost 60 years old and I have been a MOPAR fanatic since I was a kid. I have owned 318's, a 340, Slant Sixes (love them) and even a 273, but today I learned something new! Good info and a great channel.
I had a 76 Charger that had a 400, lean burner … loved the car
Great info. I honestly was not familiar with the cold weather block. Awesome!!
Thanks for bringing up the subject.
The 400 Mopar is or has been over looked for the more popular 440 for many years now.
400 regarded as a smog engine.
While the intended use of this engine was for a different purpose than what we think about doing today with these engines.
This engine has some of the best stock block potential as anything ever made out of Detroit.
The engine can be a real performer on any stage.
But the Street Fighter occasional drag race is the category that I for one seeing it competing in.
Has something for everyone.
I am thinking a 400 stroker I.E. 451 is this 1st if not the last choice.
Well build choices is a subject for another day.
Anyway great video.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed. I think the 451 combo is one of the best mopar strokers out there. I already have a forged 383 crank so, a 418ci would be pretty easy to build
Had a couple 451s not in Darts….one with Indy aluminum heads with solid roller and it was a screamer. Even the 451 with factory steel ported heads and just solid flat tappet was a screamer.
That 400 would be great in that ‘77-‘78 Powerwagon that was pictured for a moment. A long time ago, 1978 to be exact, I bought a ‘73 Plymouth Fury that was a former cop car. It had a 400 with the 727 Trans. It had the factory dual exhaust as a lot of them did with the 400-440’s. As it turned out it was just as fast out of the hole as a friends ‘72 Fury, former State Patrol Car with a 440. Not to long after getting it, the second gear band in the Torque Flite snapped, which was no surprise considering the Department that owned it prior, but once the 727 was rebuilt with a shift kit, ect, it held its own with the ‘72 Fury’s around town, not to mention the occasional Camaro or Mustang. However a guy had a 340 Duster that launched pretty strong from the start, but once the big Fury got the RPM’s up it would end up pushing the Duster down the road!
News to me. Perciate it...good vid kid. And FU46
New sub, good information. Kinda reinforces what others have said. Will be looking at some of your other uploads too. Stay safe.
Thanks Scott. I’m currently prepping my budget built ‘68 Dart for Duct Tape Drags so, you’ll see some of that content soon!
Great video great info! Building a 400 right now. Yes, the 400 is the way to go. I've been on the lookout for a 230 block, but I'm on Maui so chances are slim to none here. Hehe. Goodluck with your build.
The struggle is definitely real out there lol. Glad you found a 400 though!
Cool video nice information I just checked my 400 block and it was dated August 21/71, so I guess I've got the engine you're talking about.
Nice! If you ever decide to build it the sky’s the limit.
@@sorta_stock the engine came out of Gramps 72 Newport with only 50,000 miles and it could smoke the rear tires it was not a slouch at all.
The later 440's have thicker main saddles and ribs on the outside as well. We are at 600 n/a with our 505" RB and spray 250 on top of that.
Which years are you referring to?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion 72 up i think. just look for ribs where the freeze plugs are, and ribs above where the trans bolts to.
@frigglebiscuit7484
Will this be the case in passenger, truck, and commercial vehicles with the 440?
@@MrJohnnyDistortiongo to the 440 source website and read their block guide. The bigger saddle 440s are only in '76 and newer casting and not all of them have it. The only way to tell is to completely tear down the block and see it with the crank out. Good luck.
440 source info also has plenty of pictures to show you where to look for the differences. Good luck!✌️
@@frigglebiscuit7484go to the 440 source website and look at their block info guide. All pre '76 are the same in saddle casting. Only some '76 and newer have the larger cast and you can't tell with tearing the engine down. They have plenty of pictures there to show you the difference
Yes one of my buddies has a 400 based block in a pro street pulling struck. Stretched out to 470 inch and turns 9500 rippms. It's definitely an enemy with the other guys
Great Video, I am trying to learn about my 451 stroker and this is a big help thank you!
Thanks! Love 451 stroker combo. What do you have it in?
@@sorta_stock 1971 Dart Swinger
@@sorta_stock video th-cam.com/video/0cUOQbEOFyM/w-d-xo.html
@@Destroyer1320 That’s badass man. Good luck at NNN! Gotta remind those B and E body guys who’s boss
I, at one time was going to build a 400 block and keep its stock short stroke but use a set of 440 4bbl rods with a set of custom forged Ross pistons. The longer 440 rods create an even 2.0 rod length to crank stroke ratio.
I've read several times that that is what Mopar Performance considers to be the most optimal performance rod ratio. Big bore, short stroke, long rod, = an engine that will rev to the moon, love doing it, and last forever doing it.....
Then I was going to use an electronic fuel injection system with a twin turbo set-up on it, just to make it really good and fun.
That’s where I was going with this engine. Thought was to grind the forged 383 crank’s rod journals down to 2.2 (Chevy) and use a longer rod and stroker piston. It would increase the displacement to 418 while achieving a 2.0 rod ratio.
Yes, ok I see, and increase the stroke when you're regrinding the rod journals.
It's kinda been 25 years since I've been into building hot rods (lost my license and therefore almost lost my will to live), but I remember reading something about using 198 slant 6 rods in a big block, because if I remember correctly, those rod journals are the same size. Don't hold me to that though, lol.
@@ericwilson2585 I’ll have to look into the 198 rods. Sorry to hear about the license. As a hot rodder, I can only imagine the struggle. Hopefully you stayed in the community as there are many ways to still enjoy these beautiful machines.
@@ericwilson2585 Bummer about the license!
This is something know one seems to understand the longer rod of the 440 makes it a superior engine to the 400 all else being equal. A longer rod reduces frictional forces and piston speed therfore improving horsepower. I'm a mechanical engineer and it's funny to see all these people hyping up the 400 ci engine and not understanding engine dynamics.
Ive been a big mopar fan for years until recently ive started gravitating into the ls crowd. I cant tell you how many 400s ive had and overlooked. The one that i recall most was My 73 charger se brougham,had the 400, 727 factory AC, moonroof car. Bucket seats power windows. Etc. paid 1200 bucks for it in 08. Put a fuel pump in it and it ran. I never got to drive it as it was stolen later on
The reputation as a “smog engine” has really helped these things remain cheap. Such a great platform to build though.
I shed a tear when I sold my 400. I made enough money on the deal to wipe that tear with the cash though so I guess I'll live. 400's are bad ass!
Lol this got me by the thumb pic of the pickup. I had a military 1977 3/4 ton 4x4 dodge ..best truck I ever had after I rebuilt it.
I actually bought that pickup for 1200 bucks sight unseen and drove it 1000 miles home. It was a super cool experience. I love the Dodge tin grills
I have a 1973 1ton 400 block. I had it sonic tested it's the thickest Mopar block I have ever tested.
Nothing new but nice seeing some young folks figuring out our old tricks.
Can’t let these secrets go. Especially as prices rise and fewer folks continue to build the classic stuff.
It was hidden for all us motor heads , 👍👍 up to you 🏁🏁 . Excellent for a dirt circle car 🏁.
Thanks for the info! Regards from Ody Slim
If you take a 400 and raise the compression ratio and add a good set of heads on the thing it's a great runner just like that
@79tazman ...yeah I watched a 400 big block run high 9's in the quarter mile a few years ago in a Duster & that was a pump gas combination... I think he had 3.91 gears in a 8.75 rear... I remember asking the owner some questions about it that day... definitely impressed by that Duster
Thanks for the info didn't know the existed to be honest with you and I've been dealing with Mopars all along time thanks again
No problem! Hopefully I’ll get to build this block here soon and see what it’ll do. Having fun documenting the projects on TH-cam.
My 72 Roadrunner is a 19 Jan build. I’m definitely going to check for those numbers. I’ve never heard of a cold weather block.
Sounds like you’ve got a good chance! Love those 2nd gen roadrunners by the way. Please keep me posted on what you find 👍🏻
@@sorta_stock Will do!
They were referred to as ( winter block)by most people but they are the same thing
You're right got a 400 stroke to 451 enderly stud girdle 12.5 co
with B1 Heads 760 roller in a 75 duster 940s all day constantly naturally aspirated looking to get in the high 8s
Sounds like a sweet setup. Especially in a duster.
I just picked up a "230" block yesterday. Now I have two. The 400 is a great platform to start a build.
Nice! I know of a couple yards in Southern California that have some 230 blocks. They’re still out there
i have a 73 400 in my 4 speed 70 dart. came out of a monaco police car. oil pan even had a baffle in it. stock pistons, small plug motorhome heads with coolant ports around the spark plugs(bowl ported), 383 steel crank, lunati voodoo flat tappet cam (268/276, 494/513 lift, 110 lsa), stock rockers, and a weiand stealth intake. thing is terrifying.
Recently acquired a 69 Cuda coup ,ran the numbers, came back a 361, asking around, supposedly came stock, motor looks fresh outside and in, runs amazing. I never heard of this engine. Body itself has had 6 or 7 colors, faded, great patina, makes me think old race car, only very light body damage so far. I need down pipes, any suggestions where to acquire?
I have a 230 block with a 10/07/71 casting date WITHOUT the bigger saddles. Ive been pulling 230 blocks since '98 and have found several October blocks without them. Ive never found a September or earlier block without them.
Also, I have noticed that the overwhelming majority of the early 230 blocks will have a June casting date.
Happy hunting! ✌️
Got a couple of 400's, going to be dropping my truck motor into the New Yorker, and rebuilding the old one to go with my 440 and 413
My 471 made 580 RWHP on pump gas turns to 7000 rpm with a somewhat mild hydraulic roller 252/254 cam in my 66 Belvedere. Jesse from skmfx has been building killer 400 base strokers since the late 90’s
580RWHP is crazy good. That’s essentially hellcat power in a streetable big block. Most of the new muscle crowd would struggle to drive a car with that much power and no electronic assistance
What cylinder heads?
@@stephenwest798 a heavily ported edelbrock victor head.
Thanks for the info, that's a lot of rear wheel HP. @@AlainLajoie-s4h
I'm gonna Spray my 400 to the Moon 🌙 for DUCT TAPE! 🤘🤘🤘
Get it Ruben
I've personally have watched a factory long block 40p with 12lbs of boost run low 11's high 10's for a decade straight.
No one built a big block better than mopar
I ran a 400 in Mud drag racing and a 451 with stage 6 heads what a beast.
Great video. Whatever gets it done for you! Some guys like the Big Blocks some guys like the small blocks. Others the Slant six. I've always been a 440 + 6 guy. . Good luck with your projects out there!
Thanks! Gotta get these projects on the road while there’s still a gas station in town
I have a 64 440 with a stock 1974 big block 400 from a truck and I can barely keep it under control. Instant burnout machine.
I need a sure grip asap just so I can concentrate on the other things it may need. Street car so probably no other modifications
to the engine. Plan on a new Tourqueflight , get rid of the push button shifter ,and new wiring and it’s done… 400 cu……. Massive power plant. Good for street.
400s rock. I've had 4 of em. One was from a 72 Polara, but I hopped it up and put it in my 68 Charger. Great motors. With a valve spring upgrade and a cam, they'll turn 6000 all day. I've always wanted to build a 400 long rod motor, using 440 rods: 3.38 stroke and 6.768 rods = a 2:1 rod ratio!
Dude, I literally am doin the research for buildin a 451.🤙🤙
Dude the 451 and 470 stroker combos have got to be the best builds for a street/strip car. Good rod ratio, excellent part availability, decent piston skirt length, etc. hope you dyno that 451 when it’s done!
It’ll be a while but yes i will. I’ll be lookin for 650ish streetable hp. I have the 440 forged crank and H beam rods and a 400 block. I believe it’s a ‘72 block.
Reading between the lines it sounds like to me you're saying Big Blocks are better than small blocks. I completely agree.
Hey hey hey… the 400 is a different animal lol.
@@sorta_stock Sure it is.
LOL!!
Gotta put the 400 and the 340 at the top of the podium 🙌🏻
@@sorta_stock I'm poor, 383's and 440's are dirt cheap so they're at the top of my list.
We built an engine about 25-30 years ago using a 400-block bored .060 over. Offset ground 440 crank, BBC rods and 455 Buick pistons. 466 cubes, 13.75 to 1 C/R. Comp solid roller cam. Wish we could have found better heads for it. Good Super Gas motor, though.
Building a 13.75 to 1 CR big block in California would have me buying stock in VP Racing Fuels haha.
Good vid! Are you going to be at Fall Fling in Van Nuys?
I completely forgot they had a fall show. Do you know the dates? Couldn’t find it online
Great video I cannot stand 383 I never liked it never will… I still think the V 10 that’s in a viper is the best motor ever made only because it is so bulletproof and now you made me a believer of the 400 being a great as well.
I haven’t dug into my ‘96 v10 yet but, that’ll be on the horizon! I’ve got a few upgrades to install before tossing it into the Barracuda.
There were a lot of good running 383's back in the day and it was common to see one blow the doors off a 440 and they were durable as well, can't understand why one would not like them.
Big bore small main.Love-em
I would have a better chance of going to the desert in Arizona and wishing for a falling star to put me out of my search for that gem, thanks for reminding me!
I know this is old but really good info new subscriber here
Thanks man! I just finished building the 400 block discussed in this video. Build series is posted on the channel. Looking to fire it up in the next few weeks.
Good stuff man!
I'm a GM LSA 800 rwhp owner, but I know that the 400 w/a 440 crank is an absolute n/a MONSTER!!!
Not sure that will work. That’s a B block an RB is the 440 (STANDS FOR BLOCK and RAISED BLOCK).
I have a 1978 D150 with a 360 in it and a 1972 New Yorker with a 400 in it...I have been looking for a Hemi combo to put in the truck. Instead of ditching both running motors I've decided to swap them and build up the truck. Both cars are extremely clean one from Wisconsin with the 400 garage kept for 30 years not driven and the truck from California.
Check out the casting number and date on that 400 you have. Even if it’s not the CWB I describe in the video, it’ll still make a killer stroker
Great vid. I had forgotton about the cold weather 400. IMO,a 400 is the best of both worlds,being oersquare as you stated AND you can line bore a 400 out to take a 440 steel crank (i much prefer this route rather than cutting down a good 440 crank down to 400 main size) BUT either way you get a big inch big block that will REV while still maintaining the desire oversquare architecture.
I’d be curious to hear if anyone experienced adverse effects from line boring to the 440 crank size as opposed to turning the crank down. The block has a ton of material but, I wonder if the caps would become a limiting factor with the bore.
@@sorta_stock I have done the 440 crank in 400 block combo in 5 or 6 engines & they have all been 550 HP & below street engines & never had any issues with a 6200 RPM redline. My machinist is the one who advised me that the 400 block could stand being line bored out to 440 main size way better than risking turning a 440 crank mains down to 400 size. Higher HP's & power adders could cause issues,i just don't know.
Richard Ehrenberg prefers cutting the block, because crankshaft strength isn't just the material, but the overlap of the journals. its why increasing stroke length often leads to bigger mains (on say Pontiac 455 or chevy 400 small block). about the only issue is you'll move the crank up closer to the cam so there may be some slack in a timing chain and the piston will be closer to 0 deck at TDC than before.
You may not have the redline capacity of the B block, but the increase in displacement is just shifting the torque curve lower in the RPM spread--gear accordingly and it may be a great way to use an automatic trans on the street, since you'll probably run a lower stall speed and thus less heat.
I don't have a cold weather block, but I do have three 400's, 7 440's, 7 383's, 3 340's and on and on. What I don't have is what I want, a 426 Hemi, had one once and never had anything else that even came close to it in performance.
I plan to build a 400 , I have 2 . I also have a set of 69 440 hp closed chamber heads . Block, heads, mild cam should be a good runner. Can't wait to find out
I’ll be assembling this 400 in the next few months. Lookin forward to strapping it on the dyno 👍🏻. If you upload any videos of your 400 once it’s built please tag me!
I think if you do some checking, those closed chamber heads are 1967, casting number 2780915, if they are closed chamber and that is not the casting number then they are not 440 HP heads.
never knew this i have a factory 400 in a 74 crewcab d200 adventurer original but rough right now. but pulling it to put a cummins in it. but since i was gonna pull it i was gonna put it in my 75 d200 custom that i had i bought for the box so guess i'll check it when i disassembled it.
Can’t argue against a Cummins swap but, that 400 built would be a ton of fun in a slammed d200
2:43 that car was on sale in Nevada not to long ago
I just noticed your engine is dated 10 1 71 that's my birthday I turn 21 I would love to own that engine
Just subscribed subscribed.. great video
Thanks man! The only thing better than building and racing Mopars is talking about em 👍🏻
No argument on this video. "440 Source" has posted a detailed explanation on the Low Deck 400's strengths over it's kin; the 383 and even the mighty 440 at least a decade ago
The Main Webbing areas on the 400 are significantly thicker compared to the the 383 and 440's making it a better candidate for high power builds, especially in the case of a 495 + CID Stroker application.
So let's see the advantages.....
• Bigger Bore
• Shorter/lighter weight piston (wrist pin thru the Oil Ring is another topic)
• Shorter Pushrods
• Stronger (cold weather) Blocks
• Shorter Deck Height
Undersquare, Square or Oversquare, I like the Low Deck 400. Chrysler knew exactly what they were doing and developed maximum potential as a foundational blueprint in every engine they designed.
PS: Good luck finding any production Chrysler Block that sonic checks over .220
The foundry may have been generous with high nickel content, but thick bore sleeves was not apparent, it seems. If someone has proven otherwise, please post.
Same stroke as a 318 I believe 3.38" right? Always loved the 400 on paper you hit all the points.
@67dodgepolara ... 273/318/340 all had a 3.31" stroke spec (stock)... the 383/400 had a 3.38" stroke ...really not a big difference in spec when you think about it... only .07" inch
I took off the lean burn
I built a 400 block stroked to 511-518 with B1 heads and i filled the bottom with hardblock up to the freeze plugs with 4 bolt mains from pro gram specialist, 1050 Dominator and 23/8 primarys 15:5-1 compression made 928 HP 800 torque at Koffles dyno great motor lasted until i sold it, BM rods alum the weakest part is the deck will leak
The cold weather block aside from the external reinforcement, the main web reinforcement in later years of production is an 800+ hp block...
Only pre October '71 casting 230 400 blocks have the big saddles
451 stroker (400 block/440 Crank) is probably the best stroker combo out there. Rev monster/torque animal.
I had an early 70s van with a 400 in it. We put a Weiand intake and a 3310 holley, a small cam and headers. It was scary to have a van that fast.🤣
I’m just picturing the van doing a big Smokey burnout lol
@@sorta_stock Always! I was in high school. It was long wheel base, extended rear, no windows, former Air force Police van. I traded it for a 76 dodge 300 4x4, 4 door. An oak tree in a blind corner at 70 ended that truck.
Funny how those trees don't move!@@michaels.ramsey7803
I'm a big block guy but I've learned to never under estimate a real 340 motor
And a 340 is a bored 318, right? The early 318s were the most underrated mills Chrysler ever built!
oh yeah, they had the nickname "baby Hemi", and not because they were like the Poly 318.
I grew up in the snow belt, but hotrodders wanting their muscle car to be an everyday summer car often figured out what a good small block in an economy car could accomplish. with a 4 speed and the right gears, you could do better than a big block's 8-15 mpg, handle in the corners, and swap to a shorter rear tire at the strip and get 13's or better with a power adder (ie, NOS). In my time, the real trick was to find an early 360--it had the 340's water jackets so you could bore past 4.04 inches and get 379 cid, and the heads had 340 ports just smaller valves. find an OEM 340 intake and you had nice affordable street performance with the right cam.
@@philhand5830 318’s were far from underrated. They were rated exactly where they belonged.
not quite, they were cast with a larger cylinder and thicker.@@philhand5830
All 1972 4 barrel 400's came with forged steel crankshafts, while most 2 barrel 1972 400's got cast Ron crankshafts. For 1973, only manual transmission 400's got forged steel crankshafts and automatics got cast iron crankshafts. For 1974 through 1978, both manual and automatic transmission 400's got cast iron crankshafts.
I had a 76 powerwagon with a 400. Are those blocks any good for strength? Just asking because I was curious about dropping one in a 74 swinger to be a street/strip car. What kind of intake would all of you suggest? I was thinking about a tunnel ram but I don't know. I love mopars. I just want to learn from experienced people. Thanks.
Any 400 will make a great foundation for a build. Especially in an A-body. Just gotta ditch the emissions equipment, bump up compression, and let the thing breathe.
I have a 400 in my 1974 Charger SE and thought about doing a build from 440 Source. I thought it would be cool to have a 510 c.i.d. fuel injected big block in my car......just an idea 💯😎
I like the 512 combo but, the piston pin is really high and the skirts are pretty short.
@@sorta_stock I'd also thought about just doing a stock rebuild but with tighter tolerances and a couple uograded parts like long tube headers, better heads and cam. This car is just a cruiser.
@@218422100 For a cruiser, I think a 451 stroker is probably the best combo out there. They make great power, have all the reliability of a stock 440, and can take a lot of abuse. All in a smaller and lighter package
I pushed snow with a 400 Ramcharger. It was an animal.
I just sub your channel so I can watch your build although I’m doing a 68 440 block that’s standard bore so I got it for a grand a horse deal about a thousand I payed I hope my 68 block was for a 68 super bee it’s been stored from day one
Thanks Jeff! Gotta love a std bore score.
My 400 makes 613hp/610tq, previous made 723hp/650 TQ. Got 2 spare blocks👍🏻
Pump gas builds?
@@sorta_stock yes both. Current one in the Jackpine Savage is 493 stroked eddelbrock heads, mild cam. Dynoed on 91 octane. First one was 512 Stroker with trick flow 270s flat tappet cam. Both run on pump gas.
@@BigfootsnMopars That’s awesome. I’d love to see people’s reactions when you fire it up at the pump lol
Yep, i got one. the problem was they (TTI )dont make a 2 inch header for A-BODY that fits , im not going to cut my car up for headers, so its a 416 for me. why not use a V-10 Truck block and headers? the heads are same just not aluminum?
Yeah headers are always an issue with our A-bodies. I’ll never go Hedman long tubes again (even with a small block). The heads and headers from the truck v10 are not interchangeable with the viper. They’re based on the same stroke and bore but, are pretty different from each other.
Great video ! thanks for sharing . Looking for a 400 for myself . everyone wants BIG $$ for a block that may not pass a mag teat or a sonic test .
What would you spend for a good cold weather 400 complete
From what I understand and have seen there's 3 different web thicknesses in the 400's. I've built a 470 on one of the medium thickness ones. Eddy heads milled a little bit. Step dish pistons creating 10.6-1 compression with a 520s lift 240s duration cam. That thing is stout with torque and revs to 6500 like it's nothing. I can only imagine how the short stroke would rev.
Even the thinner castings make amazing platforms. Still thicker than a 383. This 400-based 426 is now in my Ramcharger. Revs like a 340 and feels like it's got an easy 450whp.
They just need a little compression. Years ago Hot Rod (?) Magazine featured a build that used a pop-up 440 pistons and made 650ish HP with a tunnel ram.
Yes,915 heads, with oversize valves.
Steve Dulcich.
666 horse power 440.
OK, got a question. Never heard of the term cold weather block. In the small block world truck engines (318, 360) were supposed to be cast from hi nickel iron and designated with a dash 3 at the end of the engine size cast into the block. What about 400 truck engines? Truck engines as in motor homes & heavy trucks (1 ton jobs). Did they do the hi nickel thing on them also and if so what was the designation? Asking for someone who has little experience with big blocks - - - - -me.
The general consensus is that pre-1974 big blocks came with the higher nickel content. The nickel wasn’t looked at as a strengthening component. Instead, it was used to resist corrosion in the block. Just so happened to benefit the strength as well. Lots of people have tested the theory and determined negligible results between years with the exception of marine blocks and cold weather blocks.
@@sorta_stock But they didn't mark them in any way?
Am I correct in saying that the 400 blocks fit in engine bays set up for big block motor mounts? (Specifically a 413)
Yes. Even though the 413 is an RB series big block (vs the B series 400) the mounting ears on the block are compatible.
Where did you find one? Been looking for 25 30 years now, find early 400's all the time but not the thick webbed cold weather block
This one came from a '72 Plymouth Satellite. There's one for sale on the central CA coast right now
It ran good
What it like getting the 400 into A bodies? I recall from years ago, running long tube headers was out of the question? I live in Oz and most of the cars were A's, as far as I know. Cheers.
The 400 uses the same headers as a 383. Although it’s definitely tight, there are options. Schumacher and TTI are the most popular
@@sorta_stock Thanks for bothering to reply. And good to know. Would have to source a 400 from the States, most likely. Cheers.
hedman b body long tubes fit if you use a automatic and manual steering. you have to dent the tube where the bearing in the column is, and around the steering box. i have no idea if it fits a manual. when i put them in my 70 dart with a 400 and 4 speed, we'll see.
Thanks for the reply to that question.@@frigglebiscuit7484
Hey bud, how do 400 motor home blocks compare to the cold weather unit
I don’t believe the 400s used in motor homes were any different. A lot of the design changes the 440s experienced (coolant flow changes) we’re already implemented in the 400’s design from the start. 440 source has a really good write up discussing the different 400 casting numbers compared to all the other big block Mopars.
The 400 got a bad name because it was always stuck in 4500 lb turds with 2.45 gears. 400s ROCK !
Usually but not always. One of my best friends had a 73 Road Runner with the 400 and 4 speed options. That car was no joke. At the time I was rolling a 70 Mach 1 351c 4 speed. Not much on the street at the time would give that Stang a run for it's money but that Road runner def did. Of course we're not talking "stock" for either car. ;)
actual compression ratio of a 400 was a pitefull 7.7:1. advertised compression was 8.2:1 which does not compute when you do the math. factory cams were very low lift also. give a 400 9:1 compression and some reasonable valve lift and it will outrun most 383s.
once upon a time, I had a 400 in a '74 Fury 3, 2 door with a huge moonroof.
I know many folks remember these 400s as dogs but, they just never had a chance to shine. Just fired up the 400 I highlighted in this video. Decided on an aluminum headed 426 stroker out of it. Tossed it in my 77 Ramcharger of all things.
Have a '72 Dodge motorhome that has a 400 in it with a block heater. Would that be a cold weather block? It's only got 137,000 mi on it. Just waiting for the right body to put it into.
Could be the cold weather block. You’d just need to crawl underneath and take a look at the casting number and date.
No such thing as a cold weather block, but if you want the big saddle casting 400, it has to have a casting ending in 230 with a casting date before October '71
You can punch a 400 block to a .030 over 440 piston, take a light cut off the top of these .030 over cast 440 pistons, with this you can run a set of 906 heads and Cometic has head gaskets in all kinds of thickness so you can set the compression where you want it and still be pretty cheap overall. Take carefulmeasurements because you will start with the piston out the top of the bore but in 69 some 383s came with pistons sticking out also and they ran up into the open chamber 906 heads. This is just a cheap way to build compression. Hard to do it with a 383, just got to bore it too far for most castings.
Where are you located at?
I got a 5.2 magnum with eq heads. Just under Memphis
I’m over in CA
My 360 truck engine ain't a 400, but fingers crossed it is a winter block-I could really use that where I live.
I didn't ever get much experience with mopars. I had an uncle with a yellow 340 duster, that was mildly built, but it seemed like a rocket when I was a kid. Me and my dad ended up dragging a 62 Chrysler 300 hard top home when I was 14. Fresh points, new coil, and a set of wires and boom, off she went. But the floors were gone, no brakes, no trunk floor....it wasn't great. But a guy offered us 1000 bucks and I bought an 84 Chevy Caprice that ran and drove. Looking back I wish I would have stuck with that Chrysler a little longer. Factory torque numbers were ridiculous (480 ft lbs with 330 hp on single and 380 on dual carb) 413 single afb wedge, 727 torque flight, 373 8 3/4 rear with a pinion snubber. And a 140 mph speedo under a fish bowl that all lit up blue. But in 2000 it was just an ugly old car to most people.
Is there a way to tell which block I have? I have a 400, with a 413 crank for a bracket truck.
Would 440 heads work on a cold weather block?
Chyrsler put the same heads on every single big block year to year. What I mean is, a 1971 383 or 440, or 400 would all have the same head on them. This also means any head that fit on a 440 or 383 all the way back into the 60's through the late 70's when they quit making them will fit.
The difference in heads is two things: Late 60's had higher compression, a few years had smaller valves. Early 70's the compression changed and they got hardened vale seats for no lead gas. After that is the "452" casting, which was on every big block until the end of production.
Most people will say bolt on performance is best with the higher compression heads, but they will also say not having hardened valve seats is a waste of time so just get some 452's and port them a little.
So the heads on the cold weather block are already exactly the same as the same year head off a 440.
@@davenhla Thanyou for that information! Reason I asked is that several years ago I had some 440 heads ported, polished and cc’d, had stainless steel valves with triple cut on the exhaust and five cuts on the intakes with triple springs and retainers, but never completed the process because I wrecked the 383 Road Runner I was going to build up the engine in!
Only '67 and earlier 915 and 516 heads are higher compression. Deck height of pistons changed in '68. Swapping a '67 or earlier head to later block only made a noticeable gain on engines equiped with HP pistons and rods.
Once into the smogger years it was such a small difference you could bolt 1 516 or 915 on one bank and it wouldn't change the driving characteristics of the engine at all. It only shifted compression a 1/4 point at best
In the Mopar industry some people called this engine the Rodney Dangerfield of the big blocks because it got no respect in my opinion this engine deserves its respect because hell I had a 400 you know in a 75 and a 75 roadrunner that I put in myself and I had fun with that motor good good strong good strong foundation you know I didn't have to put any hard block in it only made 400 horsepower out that motor but I had fun so if you're going to build a 400 go ahead build one make a hand me killer work for me holla if you hear me
Thanks for making my engine decision for my W150 way harder lol.
No problem lol. If you choose small block take a look at the 89-92 LA 360 👍🏻. Factory roller cam and 308 heads
@@sorta_stock I wanted to do a 360 stroked to a 408. But the big block sounds cooler lol. What do you think?
@@derrictaylor1181 If it’s already got a small block, I’d stick with the 360/408. Saves you from replacing your transmission. Plus, they’ve got plenty of torque to scoot a w150 along.
People don't realise the "OG" original 400 Shallow deck R height with the big bore wall thickness block was a planned ball stud Hemi base. It did everything the Ford 400 and 351M couldn't do...that is, it was Reliable, Crack Free and don't forget, 255 HP net was an R and Q code 1972 and 73-74 Cleveland HO or later CJ 351 figure ( 261, 266, 275, then another rating for 73 and 74, which eclipsed Every other Ford Big Block and almost all the other Big Blocks except the SD 455 for 1973). The Mopar big block isn't a dopey thinwall Henry. Ford didn't make a cold Weather block 351M or 400 untill 1978. Ford improved it, but Never Fixed it. Chrysler Corp didn't really screw over the 400 Big Blocks.
The 429 & 460s are very heavy & sturdy. It's common to bore them .080 over & some more.