Building this 400 close to hemi specs. It’s now a 426 stroker with closed chamber aluminum heads and a purple shaft cam. I’m about to post the final assembly video
In my family an uncle left me an my brothers a 1971 Dodge D100 Power Wagon, he bought new for hunting and plowing his properties. Now I’ve never heard of a “cold weather block” 400, but this truck has a 400 V8, with a 4 brl carb and HD Torque Flite trans and 2speed transfer. Plus 3:55 posi gears. It was very well cared for with very few city miles, mostly highway miles between R.I. and northern Maine. Always washed off underneath and kept clean. But does have the original paint, with some light rust. We were always disappointed it didn’t have a 440, but now I know better! Next time I’m in town I’m going to take a good look! At the casting numbers.
Ok here we are 1 year later and I have just returned from up north to visit family. I’m so proud of my youngest brother! Because he has the truck in a very nice garage, with the body down to bare metal and the chassis all rebuilt and painted. But it’s the engine that is the best thing, because it’s been checked at a local machine shop and is a 400 cold weather block, that my uncle knew about when he bought ordered the truck. But never did anything to it. But my brother is sparing no expense to get a nice high power engine out of it. I can’t wait to see and drive next year!
Had a friend that found that out one day at the strip, he is long gone so I don't remember all the details, but he went from a loser to a winner just by turning the distributor.
Thanks for the shoutout! Lots of great info here! They’re super underrated engines. People think they have to stroke them all. Not the case! I’m ready to rev and take one to 500hp! 🤞🏻
Good stuff man! I've been preaching up the 400 for years. Absolutely love them. 400 block, 383 steel crank, lightweight rods and pistons, heads that breathe... Hang on to your butt! 😎
The crank standing up next to the block is actually a steel 383 crank. I was contemplating just turning the rod journals down for a slight increase in stroke.
@@sorta_stock that could be cool. Last one I built was .060 over with 383 crank. H beams and Ross pistons. Roller cam & rockers. 411 CI that would turn 8500 all day without breaking a sweat. 😎
Yes I have high hopes for mine. I'm getting old and I guess lazy my missed shifts tend to be comical.Bam ok I have a gear... Which way the hell am I going. That kind of thing. The 340 was stupid that way. It just didn't quit
Also look at the main bearings especially where the thrust bearing is and if the webbing is as thick or almost as thick all the way to the cam bore and the sides of the block you have a good one that can handle some horsepower, best place to find them is in school busses and motor homes or stationary industrial applications like big generators and irrigation pumps
Thanks for the informative video! Reading thru the comments I've learned even more. Well I'll go check the 400 engine I have that a guy sold me years ago. Oh yea I sold a water pump off an old block I'll check that one too. Picked up a 65 .030 over 383 that had 906 heads with fresh big valve heads. Never fired. Then theres that 68 IMPERIAL 440 2dr ht. Thats been serving 25 years. Not to mention the 67 dart that is back halfed narrow dana 60 .. You mentioned the 5.2 magnum . Been a fan of the magnum since 97. When I bought my first 96 Dodge reg cab short bed but 5.9 I do have a few cool parts for those. M1 intakes. Those work great. Took the 96 dodge to a best of 14.42 @95 mph with a xrock torque converter. Love the 3.92 gears in those magnums with the OD trans. Especially the pre 96 trans the 3 wire hook up. But at 72, I need to reconsider what to do with this stuff. They're closing the track near by . Never been a fan of 1/8 mile. Took my 69 Road Runner to a best of 10.69 at 124.7 back in 1984. 4 spd. Thanks again for the info . I'll be checking today on the 400s
Those 906 heads on a built 400 stuffed into your 67 dart would be a top contender at the strip. The 5.2 magnum I currently have in my 68 dart has really impressed me. I’m taking it to Duct Tape Drags in Tucson, AZ next month.
Yes one of my buddies has a 400 based block in a pro street pulling struck. Stretched out to 470 inch and turns 9500 rippms. It's definitely an enemy with the other guys
Yup. Low deck Stroker power. I had a Demon with a 451 stroker - 400 block with 440 steel crank, ran 10s, shifting at 7500 rpm. They love to rev and they love solid cams. True weapons!
I graduated HS in 1965! Loved those big block days! Many year subscriber to Motor Trend in those years.... Chrysler ruled NASCAR back then, kicking serious tail in the races until NASCAR went political and mandated restrictor plates.... still burns me up to remember that!!!
I'm almost 60 years old and I have been a MOPAR fanatic since I was a kid. I have owned 318's, a 340, Slant Sixes (love them) and even a 273, but today I learned something new! Good info and a great channel.
Thanks for bringing up the subject. The 400 Mopar is or has been over looked for the more popular 440 for many years now. 400 regarded as a smog engine. While the intended use of this engine was for a different purpose than what we think about doing today with these engines. This engine has some of the best stock block potential as anything ever made out of Detroit. The engine can be a real performer on any stage. But the Street Fighter occasional drag race is the category that I for one seeing it competing in. Has something for everyone. I am thinking a 400 stroker I.E. 451 is this 1st if not the last choice. Well build choices is a subject for another day. Anyway great video. Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed. I think the 451 combo is one of the best mopar strokers out there. I already have a forged 383 crank so, a 418ci would be pretty easy to build
Had a couple 451s not in Darts….one with Indy aluminum heads with solid roller and it was a screamer. Even the 451 with factory steel ported heads and just solid flat tappet was a screamer.
@@MrJohnnyDistortiongo to the 440 source website and read their block guide. The bigger saddle 440s are only in '76 and newer casting and not all of them have it. The only way to tell is to completely tear down the block and see it with the crank out. Good luck. 440 source info also has plenty of pictures to show you where to look for the differences. Good luck!✌️
@@frigglebiscuit7484go to the 440 source website and look at their block info guide. All pre '76 are the same in saddle casting. Only some '76 and newer have the larger cast and you can't tell with tearing the engine down. They have plenty of pictures there to show you the difference
That 400 would be great in that ‘77-‘78 Powerwagon that was pictured for a moment. A long time ago, 1978 to be exact, I bought a ‘73 Plymouth Fury that was a former cop car. It had a 400 with the 727 Trans. It had the factory dual exhaust as a lot of them did with the 400-440’s. As it turned out it was just as fast out of the hole as a friends ‘72 Fury, former State Patrol Car with a 440. Not to long after getting it, the second gear band in the Torque Flite snapped, which was no surprise considering the Department that owned it prior, but once the 727 was rebuilt with a shift kit, ect, it held its own with the ‘72 Fury’s around town, not to mention the occasional Camaro or Mustang. However a guy had a 340 Duster that launched pretty strong from the start, but once the big Fury got the RPM’s up it would end up pushing the Duster down the road!
I've personally have watched a factory long block 40p with 12lbs of boost run low 11's high 10's for a decade straight. No one built a big block better than mopar
@79tazman ...yeah I watched a 400 big block run high 9's in the quarter mile a few years ago in a Duster & that was a pump gas combination... I think he had 3.91 gears in a 8.75 rear... I remember asking the owner some questions about it that day... definitely impressed by that Duster
I, at one time was going to build a 400 block and keep its stock short stroke but use a set of 440 4bbl rods with a set of custom forged Ross pistons. The longer 440 rods create an even 2.0 rod length to crank stroke ratio. I've read several times that that is what Mopar Performance considers to be the most optimal performance rod ratio. Big bore, short stroke, long rod, = an engine that will rev to the moon, love doing it, and last forever doing it..... Then I was going to use an electronic fuel injection system with a twin turbo set-up on it, just to make it really good and fun.
That’s where I was going with this engine. Thought was to grind the forged 383 crank’s rod journals down to 2.2 (Chevy) and use a longer rod and stroker piston. It would increase the displacement to 418 while achieving a 2.0 rod ratio.
Yes, ok I see, and increase the stroke when you're regrinding the rod journals. It's kinda been 25 years since I've been into building hot rods (lost my license and therefore almost lost my will to live), but I remember reading something about using 198 slant 6 rods in a big block, because if I remember correctly, those rod journals are the same size. Don't hold me to that though, lol.
@@ericwilson2585 I’ll have to look into the 198 rods. Sorry to hear about the license. As a hot rodder, I can only imagine the struggle. Hopefully you stayed in the community as there are many ways to still enjoy these beautiful machines.
This is something know one seems to understand the longer rod of the 440 makes it a superior engine to the 400 all else being equal. A longer rod reduces frictional forces and piston speed therfore improving horsepower. I'm a mechanical engineer and it's funny to see all these people hyping up the 400 ci engine and not understanding engine dynamics.
Great video great info! Building a 400 right now. Yes, the 400 is the way to go. I've been on the lookout for a 230 block, but I'm on Maui so chances are slim to none here. Hehe. Goodluck with your build.
I have a 64 440 with a stock 1974 big block 400 from a truck and I can barely keep it under control. Instant burnout machine. I need a sure grip asap just so I can concentrate on the other things it may need. Street car so probably no other modifications to the engine. Plan on a new Tourqueflight , get rid of the push button shifter ,and new wiring and it’s done… 400 cu……. Massive power plant. Good for street.
There was an article in MoPar muscle magazine back in spring or summer 2011-12 (can't remember) about a challenger with a 451 stroker turbo'd making 1000hp, I believe it was a CW block too.
My 471 made 580 RWHP on pump gas turns to 7000 rpm with a somewhat mild hydraulic roller 252/254 cam in my 66 Belvedere. Jesse from skmfx has been building killer 400 base strokers since the late 90’s
580RWHP is crazy good. That’s essentially hellcat power in a streetable big block. Most of the new muscle crowd would struggle to drive a car with that much power and no electronic assistance
I don't have a cold weather block, but I do have three 400's, 7 440's, 7 383's, 3 340's and on and on. What I don't have is what I want, a 426 Hemi, had one once and never had anything else that even came close to it in performance.
Great video I cannot stand 383 I never liked it never will… I still think the V 10 that’s in a viper is the best motor ever made only because it is so bulletproof and now you made me a believer of the 400 being a great as well.
There were a lot of good running 383's back in the day and it was common to see one blow the doors off a 440 and they were durable as well, can't understand why one would not like them.
You're right got a 400 stroke to 451 enderly stud girdle 12.5 co with B1 Heads 760 roller in a 75 duster 940s all day constantly naturally aspirated looking to get in the high 8s
No argument on this video. "440 Source" has posted a detailed explanation on the Low Deck 400's strengths over it's kin; the 383 and even the mighty 440 at least a decade ago The Main Webbing areas on the 400 are significantly thicker compared to the the 383 and 440's making it a better candidate for high power builds, especially in the case of a 495 + CID Stroker application. So let's see the advantages..... • Bigger Bore • Shorter/lighter weight piston (wrist pin thru the Oil Ring is another topic) • Shorter Pushrods • Stronger (cold weather) Blocks • Shorter Deck Height Undersquare, Square or Oversquare, I like the Low Deck 400. Chrysler knew exactly what they were doing and developed maximum potential as a foundational blueprint in every engine they designed. PS: Good luck finding any production Chrysler Block that sonic checks over .220 The foundry may have been generous with high nickel content, but thick bore sleeves was not apparent, it seems. If someone has proven otherwise, please post.
All 1972 4 barrel 400's came with forged steel crankshafts, while most 2 barrel 1972 400's got cast Ron crankshafts. For 1973, only manual transmission 400's got forged steel crankshafts and automatics got cast iron crankshafts. For 1974 through 1978, both manual and automatic transmission 400's got cast iron crankshafts.
i have a 73 400 in my 4 speed 70 dart. came out of a monaco police car. oil pan even had a baffle in it. stock pistons, small plug motorhome heads with coolant ports around the spark plugs(bowl ported), 383 steel crank, lunati voodoo flat tappet cam (268/276, 494/513 lift, 110 lsa), stock rockers, and a weiand stealth intake. thing is terrifying.
Recently acquired a 69 Cuda coup ,ran the numbers, came back a 361, asking around, supposedly came stock, motor looks fresh outside and in, runs amazing. I never heard of this engine. Body itself has had 6 or 7 colors, faded, great patina, makes me think old race car, only very light body damage so far. I need down pipes, any suggestions where to acquire?
I have a 230 block with a 10/07/71 casting date WITHOUT the bigger saddles. Ive been pulling 230 blocks since '98 and have found several October blocks without them. Ive never found a September or earlier block without them. Also, I have noticed that the overwhelming majority of the early 230 blocks will have a June casting date. Happy hunting! ✌️
400s rock. I've had 4 of em. One was from a 72 Polara, but I hopped it up and put it in my 68 Charger. Great motors. With a valve spring upgrade and a cam, they'll turn 6000 all day. I've always wanted to build a 400 long rod motor, using 440 rods: 3.38 stroke and 6.768 rods = a 2:1 rod ratio!
I built a 400 block stroked to 511-518 with B1 heads and i filled the bottom with hardblock up to the freeze plugs with 4 bolt mains from pro gram specialist, 1050 Dominator and 23/8 primarys 15:5-1 compression made 928 HP 800 torque at Koffles dyno great motor lasted until i sold it, BM rods alum the weakest part is the deck will leak
oh yeah, they had the nickname "baby Hemi", and not because they were like the Poly 318. I grew up in the snow belt, but hotrodders wanting their muscle car to be an everyday summer car often figured out what a good small block in an economy car could accomplish. with a 4 speed and the right gears, you could do better than a big block's 8-15 mpg, handle in the corners, and swap to a shorter rear tire at the strip and get 13's or better with a power adder (ie, NOS). In my time, the real trick was to find an early 360--it had the 340's water jackets so you could bore past 4.04 inches and get 379 cid, and the heads had 340 ports just smaller valves. find an OEM 340 intake and you had nice affordable street performance with the right cam.
We built an engine about 25-30 years ago using a 400-block bored .060 over. Offset ground 440 crank, BBC rods and 455 Buick pistons. 466 cubes, 13.75 to 1 C/R. Comp solid roller cam. Wish we could have found better heads for it. Good Super Gas motor, though.
I have a 1978 D150 with a 360 in it and a 1972 New Yorker with a 400 in it...I have been looking for a Hemi combo to put in the truck. Instead of ditching both running motors I've decided to swap them and build up the truck. Both cars are extremely clean one from Wisconsin with the 400 garage kept for 30 years not driven and the truck from California.
@@sorta_stock yes both. Current one in the Jackpine Savage is 493 stroked eddelbrock heads, mild cam. Dynoed on 91 octane. First one was 512 Stroker with trick flow 270s flat tappet cam. Both run on pump gas.
They just need a little compression. Years ago Hot Rod (?) Magazine featured a build that used a pop-up 440 pistons and made 650ish HP with a tunnel ram.
Usually but not always. One of my best friends had a 73 Road Runner with the 400 and 4 speed options. That car was no joke. At the time I was rolling a 70 Mach 1 351c 4 speed. Not much on the street at the time would give that Stang a run for it's money but that Road runner def did. Of course we're not talking "stock" for either car. ;)
actual compression ratio of a 400 was a pitefull 7.7:1. advertised compression was 8.2:1 which does not compute when you do the math. factory cams were very low lift also. give a 400 9:1 compression and some reasonable valve lift and it will outrun most 383s.
Dude the 451 and 470 stroker combos have got to be the best builds for a street/strip car. Good rod ratio, excellent part availability, decent piston skirt length, etc. hope you dyno that 451 when it’s done!
It’ll be a while but yes i will. I’ll be lookin for 650ish streetable hp. I have the 440 forged crank and H beam rods and a 400 block. I believe it’s a ‘72 block.
@67dodgepolara ... 273/318/340 all had a 3.31" stroke spec (stock)... the 383/400 had a 3.38" stroke ...really not a big difference in spec when you think about it... only .07" inch
People don't realise the "OG" original 400 Shallow deck R height with the big bore wall thickness block was a planned ball stud Hemi base. It did everything the Ford 400 and 351M couldn't do...that is, it was Reliable, Crack Free and don't forget, 255 HP net was an R and Q code 1972 and 73-74 Cleveland HO or later CJ 351 figure ( 261, 266, 275, then another rating for 73 and 74, which eclipsed Every other Ford Big Block and almost all the other Big Blocks except the SD 455 for 1973). The Mopar big block isn't a dopey thinwall Henry. Ford didn't make a cold Weather block 351M or 400 untill 1978. Ford improved it, but Never Fixed it. Chrysler Corp didn't really screw over the 400 Big Blocks.
Love channel, everyone is all about the new gen small block hemis, and they're badass. But I'm talking about old school MoPar small and big block V8 engines!
You can punch a 400 block to a .030 over 440 piston, take a light cut off the top of these .030 over cast 440 pistons, with this you can run a set of 906 heads and Cometic has head gaskets in all kinds of thickness so you can set the compression where you want it and still be pretty cheap overall. Take carefulmeasurements because you will start with the piston out the top of the bore but in 69 some 383s came with pistons sticking out also and they ran up into the open chamber 906 heads. This is just a cheap way to build compression. Hard to do it with a 383, just got to bore it too far for most castings.
@@sorta_stock Always! I was in high school. It was long wheel base, extended rear, no windows, former Air force Police van. I traded it for a 76 dodge 300 4x4, 4 door. An oak tree in a blind corner at 70 ended that truck.
Great vid. I had forgotton about the cold weather 400. IMO,a 400 is the best of both worlds,being oersquare as you stated AND you can line bore a 400 out to take a 440 steel crank (i much prefer this route rather than cutting down a good 440 crank down to 400 main size) BUT either way you get a big inch big block that will REV while still maintaining the desire oversquare architecture.
I’d be curious to hear if anyone experienced adverse effects from line boring to the 440 crank size as opposed to turning the crank down. The block has a ton of material but, I wonder if the caps would become a limiting factor with the bore.
@@sorta_stock I have done the 440 crank in 400 block combo in 5 or 6 engines & they have all been 550 HP & below street engines & never had any issues with a 6200 RPM redline. My machinist is the one who advised me that the 400 block could stand being line bored out to 440 main size way better than risking turning a 440 crank mains down to 400 size. Higher HP's & power adders could cause issues,i just don't know.
Richard Ehrenberg prefers cutting the block, because crankshaft strength isn't just the material, but the overlap of the journals. its why increasing stroke length often leads to bigger mains (on say Pontiac 455 or chevy 400 small block). about the only issue is you'll move the crank up closer to the cam so there may be some slack in a timing chain and the piston will be closer to 0 deck at TDC than before. You may not have the redline capacity of the B block, but the increase in displacement is just shifting the torque curve lower in the RPM spread--gear accordingly and it may be a great way to use an automatic trans on the street, since you'll probably run a lower stall speed and thus less heat.
Any of the later 400 blocks are stronger than the early 383,440, just weigh them and you'll see the later blocks are heavier that means more metal in the mounting ears and in the main saddles...but may not mean thick cylinder walls all the way around sonic test is the sure way to find out and a good place to read up on all this is 440 source's everything you wanted to know about big block mopar engines. Funny the engines that couldn't get out of their own way end up the strongest and becoming more sought after... guess that why I have 10 of them 😂
@@bigblockjalopy the earlier blocks are just a little bit harder.... Still doesn't off set for thicker mains or for more iron in all the right places of the later blocks.... wouldn't turn any of them down.
@@moparnut6286 my opinion has has always been, that the B engine is THE prime engine from Chrysler. 1.8ish rod ratio, which is considered perfect, and much sturdier than the RB. The B is one of the most rugged engines in automobile history, so I don't think the thicker mains are any advantage. 383s are good for 700++ HP without girdle. good enough for me. BTW, my 1959 383 has about 370K miles on the clock and still runs like new,. Never caused any problems whatsoever in the 34 I drove it daily. Past may I had to pull the heads for the 1rst time, because of the inleaded fuel over here, that caused 2 leaking valves (easy fix).
@@bigblockjalopy I agree the B block is superior as far as physics goes cause of all that you stated and I have five 383 blocks from 67 to 71...and 5 or 6 400 blocks but still I wouldn't throw away any RB block I'd run them too!👍
I have a 400 in my 1974 Charger SE and thought about doing a build from 440 Source. I thought it would be cool to have a 510 c.i.d. fuel injected big block in my car......just an idea 💯😎
@@sorta_stock I'd also thought about just doing a stock rebuild but with tighter tolerances and a couple uograded parts like long tube headers, better heads and cam. This car is just a cruiser.
@@218422100 For a cruiser, I think a 451 stroker is probably the best combo out there. They make great power, have all the reliability of a stock 440, and can take a lot of abuse. All in a smaller and lighter package
Great video. Whatever gets it done for you! Some guys like the Big Blocks some guys like the small blocks. Others the Slant six. I've always been a 440 + 6 guy. . Good luck with your projects out there!
I plan to build a 400 , I have 2 . I also have a set of 69 440 hp closed chamber heads . Block, heads, mild cam should be a good runner. Can't wait to find out
I’ll be assembling this 400 in the next few months. Lookin forward to strapping it on the dyno 👍🏻. If you upload any videos of your 400 once it’s built please tag me!
I think if you do some checking, those closed chamber heads are 1967, casting number 2780915, if they are closed chamber and that is not the casting number then they are not 440 HP heads.
Thanks man! I just finished building the 400 block discussed in this video. Build series is posted on the channel. Looking to fire it up in the next few weeks.
I didn't ever get much experience with mopars. I had an uncle with a yellow 340 duster, that was mildly built, but it seemed like a rocket when I was a kid. Me and my dad ended up dragging a 62 Chrysler 300 hard top home when I was 14. Fresh points, new coil, and a set of wires and boom, off she went. But the floors were gone, no brakes, no trunk floor....it wasn't great. But a guy offered us 1000 bucks and I bought an 84 Chevy Caprice that ran and drove. Looking back I wish I would have stuck with that Chrysler a little longer. Factory torque numbers were ridiculous (480 ft lbs with 330 hp on single and 380 on dual carb) 413 single afb wedge, 727 torque flight, 373 8 3/4 rear with a pinion snubber. And a 140 mph speedo under a fish bowl that all lit up blue. But in 2000 it was just an ugly old car to most people.
I have a400 out of a 72 d200 club cab. . I have 24 big block mopars here from 383 to 440. . My neighbor is Mopar drag racer he said 400 will rev faster then the rest of big blocks and bore was bigger. He wants this 72 block in the worst way. I said no I'm saving it for 72 roadrunner when I convert it from 340 to a big block
never knew this i have a factory 400 in a 74 crewcab d200 adventurer original but rough right now. but pulling it to put a cummins in it. but since i was gonna pull it i was gonna put it in my 75 d200 custom that i had i bought for the box so guess i'll check it when i disassembled it.
I would have a better chance of going to the desert in Arizona and wishing for a falling star to put me out of my search for that gem, thanks for reminding me!
´That is not a cold weather block. It's just an early 230 block. A cold weather block has got extra ribbing outside the block, and as far as I'm aware they were only offered as RB blocks. The early 230 blocks have more material around the mains, which is where the problems usually first ocure at high horsepower, the other point is thin cylinder walls. No casting number is better than another when it comes to cylinder wall thickness. You must check them to know. You can have a thin wall early 230 block or a thick wall 530 block. I do not know how much the thicker main webs of the 230 block help the bottom end strenght. I have never had or used one. I have built several 700+ hp stock block engines with 400 and 440 blocks, and during the 30+ years of building them, only one has failed after 20 years of street & strip use. Most of were built with stock main caps and ARP studs. I think that up to about 600 hp you can do with the stock main bolts. After that the ARP studs with a line hone. If more reliability is needed I have used aluminum caps, basically at over 700hp even though I have had engines above that with stock caps. The caps will walk around at these power levels. Currently we are running a 400 with a factory 383 forged crank, and taking 820 hp out of it at 6700 rpm with a help of a roots blower at 10 psi. So far no problems.
Yes, this is a cold weather block. The only difference in a CWB is the main webbing thickness as shown in the video. I’ve got a 383 forged crank that I picked up for this engine. Thought was to turn down the rod journals to accommodate the aftermarket Chevy rods. I’m a big ARP main stud believer as well
You are correct the 413 industrial was the only block that Chrysler Corp called a cold weather block. It had grid webbing around the freeze plugs and 0.4 cylinder walls. Any other block being called a cold weather block is regional slang by very few Mopar enthusiasts
In the Mopar industry some people called this engine the Rodney Dangerfield of the big blocks because it got no respect in my opinion this engine deserves its respect because hell I had a 400 you know in a 75 and a 75 roadrunner that I put in myself and I had fun with that motor good good strong good strong foundation you know I didn't have to put any hard block in it only made 400 horsepower out that motor but I had fun so if you're going to build a 400 go ahead build one make a hand me killer work for me holla if you hear me
since even mopar fans thought late model RB and Bs were weak as Mopar moved to bankruptcy, those who could pick up motorhome 440's all day hated the big bore 400 that was late to the party. Smart fans turned down a 440 crank and made a 454 rival. I might not call it a 426Hemi killer unless you could find a Stage V hemi head conversion, but the Hemi definitely needed to be tuned to a razor's edge compared to a 440'Sixer that can be maxed out to 528 cid.
There are some serious aluminum wedge heads out there that will get you Hemi like performance and not hurt the low end torque due to crappy low speed intake velocity like the Hemi Heads have. Basically, the new after market wedge headed B or RB block can beat down a Hemi .
@@451dskots88 When Indy first came out with those heads I believe you're talking about (tho i know Edelbrock and others make some) a car buddy of mine got 'em to make a "dark horse" out of his 340 Dart he swapped an RB block into. First he complained they weren't a "bolt on" as advertised (well...duh..that's not the block i think they were intended to bolt onto) then he blew the 440 engine shifting at 7,600 rpm and then complained McCandless and others wanted to sell him a full-house shortblock once he told them about his roller cam (which he never wanted to reveal its specs, oy vey one of those old skool guys) and Indy heads. Both he and his wife claimed he had owned 100 performance cars, but after that story i figured he might have but that still didn't mean he knew F-all about building a performance car. he also was a builder who loved to blame everyone who built his stuff for him for why it always failed. so that was a lesson in listening to witnesses :) but yeah, i agree with you, the wedge heads that are available now make a Gen II Hemi obsolete for the street, unless you just want to impress (obviously its different on a race track and when the owner starts playing around with fuel varieties and octane levels). As for a 3G Hemi, if you can keep the cam lifters from eating themselves, you have a nice package. I grew up around big blocks and have some to use up still (pontiacs and oldsmobiles), however...what can be done with a stroker small block naturally aspirated makes me rethink shelling out the same cash for a big block.
The only place that intake velocity killed my 426 Hemi was between 70 and 90 mph in third gear, which was a problem because I would drop from 80 to 70 shifting from 2nd to third with that long t-handle shifter, but once it hit 90mph it was game on. I only raced on the street red light to red light so it only came into play if it was the last red light leaving town and only the better running competition would come close to catching me before I hit 90 and then it was bye bye to them. I came out of the hole at 1800 rpm and pushed the pedal quickly to the floor, not instantly, backed off the throttle to grab second and again pushed the pedal to the floor and that was 80 mph in fourteen feet time and time again and the launch from second put me a block ahead of every car I ran against in my area which really pissed the boys off as they claimed they could beat all the other Hemi's but not mine, all in technique and 3.54 rear gears not too low and not too high. That was running on bias ply tires, so traction was an issue for everyone which was a downfall for most of those who pulled up alongside me at a red light, in short, revving it up and dumping clutch just end up in a lot of wheel spinning while I drove away.@@451dskots88
all the hemi needed was a gear. add a bigger cam and headers to the hemi and everything else is toast. the undisputed king of the american v8s is the 426 hemi.
So, you didn't read my post, yea if you were running a four speed with a 3.54 rear you needed a taller second gear so you would hit 100mph in second and you needed a six-speed tranny so you could reach full speed potential of that unlimited hp. Every fool I raced against told me I needed 4.11's and I had to explain to them that that would only make me slower because I would be throwing away the advantage of all that torque and if I needed a lower gear then why was I beating them?? The other problem was all the dealers setting the valve lash at 0.00 because no one would buy them set at 0.28 intake and 0.32 exhaust because they clattered so loud which is why they had a reputation for valve train wear.@@danielslocum7169
free horse power trick...take your driver-side pistons,flip them 180 and put them on the passenger side and vice versa. mopars have off-set wrist pins to stop piston slap on start up. when you flip them like this you get more inertia on the power stroke.
I have never seen that done with a back-to-back dyno test to prove or disprove the claim, but it also is claimed to reduce friction between the piston and cylinder walls, did it with my 340 and if there is piston slap, I can't hear it. @@MP-pz9oe
The 400 is an odd duck. In factory trim it is nothing special. To make a badass 400: Take the block, then throw away the entire rest of the engine and replace it. In factory trim, there is no way to produce any quench, the standard pistons don't make compression, and you can;t spin them as fast as a 383 and they are missing cubes compared to a 440. It's when you start swapping modern tech onto them that they come to life. You can do the same for the other big blocks, but the potential combos available for a 400 is a bit higher, and people are willing to take the plunge with them because there isn;t really any other choice. With a 383 or a 440, you can use most of the factory parts and get respectable power, so there are options not to jump in and spend major $$$. With a 400, you can warm it up a little, but otherwise you need to strip it and build it. So the 400 is an odd duck in mopar land. If you want one, be patient. People know there is a lot of hype about them lately and are just waiting for some mental case to come give them $1200 for their incomplete, stuck, no accessories 400. Look around, you will find one for $250 bucks that actually still spins. Might have to drive a ways to get it but they are out there. Don't pay the hype inflation. A wise man once said the engines will always be out there. It's the cars that rot away or get destroyed. Evfentually we will have engines laying around with no car to put them in. make sure you spend your money on your ride, not on a junkyard pull engine.
400's have the biggest bore out of all the Mopar engines even 440 don't have the bore size of a 400cI. I have played with some 400's never had a cold weather block but they are great engines and in my opion the best block to use if wanting to build a performance engine like a stroker
I never heard this info about the cold-weather blocks. It is hard to tell younger guys what dogs the 400's were considered to be when they were in production. The 1970's were mostly a wasteland for high performance cars. There were a few cars that still ran well, but not many. It is ironic that these low-compression smog-dogs turned out to have so much potential.
To my mind the biggest downside of low deck strokers is aftermarket intake availability. If only they'd make a raised port head that flows say ~350cfm so you could bolt on any RB intake then you could more easily exploit the 400's stroker potential. There was a head called the Stage VI that flowed ~400cfm and had raised ports so any RB intake fiited the B (requiring spacers on the RB but none on the B) but they were hardly affordable. IIRC they were a Mopar part #.
@@sorta_stocklove your content! By design, any B or RB manifold including stock is an airgap. That's why there is only a RPM intake and not a RPM Airgap available for big block Mopar
I just sub your channel so I can watch your build although I’m doing a 68 440 block that’s standard bore so I got it for a grand a horse deal about a thousand I payed I hope my 68 block was for a 68 super bee it’s been stored from day one
My grandpa was in the car industry back in the 70s and he tuned police interceptors for his town he told me the fastest car he ever did was a car that had a 400 block in it and he decided to put a 440 cam in it he said him and the deputy went out on a highway and my grandpa was driving he pegged the speedometer out and it kept going faster and faster until the deputy started yelling at him to slow down😂
OK, got a question. Never heard of the term cold weather block. In the small block world truck engines (318, 360) were supposed to be cast from hi nickel iron and designated with a dash 3 at the end of the engine size cast into the block. What about 400 truck engines? Truck engines as in motor homes & heavy trucks (1 ton jobs). Did they do the hi nickel thing on them also and if so what was the designation? Asking for someone who has little experience with big blocks - - - - -me.
The general consensus is that pre-1974 big blocks came with the higher nickel content. The nickel wasn’t looked at as a strengthening component. Instead, it was used to resist corrosion in the block. Just so happened to benefit the strength as well. Lots of people have tested the theory and determined negligible results between years with the exception of marine blocks and cold weather blocks.
I can't think of a single engine shop in San Diego that sonic checks blocks. It is typical that any Chrysler Block will check below .200 inch. I would just run it. There are other Mopar owners that have even gone .070 and .080 over. If you're going the Race Only route, it doesn't matter. It's gonna get abused.
If you’re new to the channel please hit that subscribe button 😁. Gona be spanking a 383 with a turbo 318 soon 👍🏻
I ran a 400, with 67 closed chamber heads and a "Hemi" cam. It was a fantastic engine.
Building this 400 close to hemi specs. It’s now a 426 stroker with closed chamber aluminum heads and a purple shaft cam. I’m about to post the final assembly video
400 block + 440 crank + good heads = 452ci of big Mopar goodness.
My first B body had this set up in it….
And the piston is very short and very light. Should rev quick, like a 340.😊
In my family an uncle left me an my brothers a 1971 Dodge D100 Power Wagon, he bought new for hunting and plowing his properties. Now I’ve never heard of a “cold weather block” 400, but this truck has a 400 V8, with a 4 brl carb and HD Torque Flite trans and 2speed transfer. Plus 3:55 posi gears. It was very well cared for with very few city miles, mostly highway miles between R.I. and northern Maine. Always washed off underneath and kept clean. But does have the original paint, with some light rust. We were always disappointed it didn’t have a 440, but now I know better! Next time I’m in town I’m going to take a good look! At the casting numbers.
You would be surprised at what simply advancing the timing will do for that 400.
a simple bigger cam and advanced timing will make it a screamer.
Ok here we are 1 year later and I have just returned from up north to visit family. I’m so proud of my youngest brother! Because he has the truck in a very nice garage, with the body down to bare metal and the chassis all rebuilt and painted. But it’s the engine that is the best thing, because it’s been checked at a local machine shop and is a 400 cold weather block, that my uncle knew about when he bought ordered the truck. But never did anything to it. But my brother is sparing no expense to get a nice high power engine out of it. I can’t wait to see and drive next year!
Had a friend that found that out one day at the strip, he is long gone so I don't remember all the details, but he went from a loser to a winner just by turning the distributor.
My friend built me a 400 stroker to 451, that was the best strongest Mopar I ever drove, had it in a 1977 Power wagon shortbed loved it
I have a 76 w200 powerwagon big block 4 speed that will be getting the same stroker
Thanks for the shoutout! Lots of great info here! They’re super underrated engines. People think they have to stroke them all. Not the case! I’m ready to rev and take one to 500hp! 🤞🏻
Good stuff man! I've been preaching up the 400 for years. Absolutely love them. 400 block, 383 steel crank, lightweight rods and pistons, heads that breathe... Hang on to your butt! 😎
The crank standing up next to the block is actually a steel 383 crank. I was contemplating just turning the rod journals down for a slight increase in stroke.
@@sorta_stock that could be cool. Last one I built was .060 over with 383 crank. H beams and Ross pistons. Roller cam & rockers. 411 CI that would turn 8500 all day without breaking a sweat. 😎
Heads that breathe ? Which aftermarket heads are you talking about ?
Yes I have high hopes for mine. I'm getting old and I guess lazy my missed shifts tend to be comical.Bam ok I have a gear... Which way the hell am I going. That kind of thing. The 340 was stupid that way. It just didn't quit
@@mitchellferre1652 Indy
Also look at the main bearings especially where the thrust bearing is and if the webbing is as thick or almost as thick all the way to the cam bore and the sides of the block you have a good one that can handle some horsepower, best place to find them is in school busses and motor homes or stationary industrial applications like big generators and irrigation pumps
true, a low RPM engine with fleet maintenance...score! :)
Thanks for the informative video! Reading thru the comments I've learned even more. Well I'll go check the 400 engine I have that a guy sold me years ago. Oh yea I sold a water pump off an old block I'll check that one too. Picked up a 65 .030 over 383 that had 906 heads with fresh big valve heads. Never fired. Then theres that 68 IMPERIAL 440 2dr ht. Thats been serving 25 years. Not to mention the 67 dart that is back halfed narrow dana 60 ..
You mentioned the 5.2 magnum . Been a fan of the magnum since 97. When I bought my first 96 Dodge reg cab short bed but 5.9 I do have a few cool parts for those. M1 intakes. Those work great. Took the 96 dodge to a best of 14.42 @95 mph with a xrock torque
converter. Love the 3.92 gears in those magnums with the OD trans. Especially the pre 96 trans the 3 wire hook up.
But at 72, I need to reconsider what to do with this stuff. They're closing the track near by . Never been a fan of 1/8 mile. Took my 69 Road Runner to a best of 10.69 at 124.7 back in 1984. 4 spd. Thanks again for the info . I'll be checking today on the 400s
Those 906 heads on a built 400 stuffed into your 67 dart would be a top contender at the strip. The 5.2 magnum I currently have in my 68 dart has really impressed me. I’m taking it to Duct Tape Drags in Tucson, AZ next month.
Yes one of my buddies has a 400 based block in a pro street pulling struck. Stretched out to 470 inch and turns 9500 rippms. It's definitely an enemy with the other guys
Yup. Low deck Stroker power. I had a Demon with a 451 stroker - 400 block with 440 steel crank, ran 10s, shifting at 7500 rpm. They love to rev and they love solid cams. True weapons!
These beasts stuffed in an A-Body are truly a weapon on the street!
@@sorta_stock Hard to beat those rod angles.. Pedal to the metal!
I shed a tear when I sold my 400. I made enough money on the deal to wipe that tear with the cash though so I guess I'll live. 400's are bad ass!
I graduated HS in 1965! Loved those big block days! Many year subscriber to Motor Trend in those years.... Chrysler ruled NASCAR back then, kicking serious tail in the races until NASCAR went political and mandated restrictor plates.... still burns me up to remember that!!!
NASCAR was owned by GM back then and I think it switches back and forth from GM to Toyota now, depends on car sales.
I'm almost 60 years old and I have been a MOPAR fanatic since I was a kid. I have owned 318's, a 340, Slant Sixes (love them) and even a 273, but today I learned something new! Good info and a great channel.
Thanks for bringing up the subject.
The 400 Mopar is or has been over looked for the more popular 440 for many years now.
400 regarded as a smog engine.
While the intended use of this engine was for a different purpose than what we think about doing today with these engines.
This engine has some of the best stock block potential as anything ever made out of Detroit.
The engine can be a real performer on any stage.
But the Street Fighter occasional drag race is the category that I for one seeing it competing in.
Has something for everyone.
I am thinking a 400 stroker I.E. 451 is this 1st if not the last choice.
Well build choices is a subject for another day.
Anyway great video.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed. I think the 451 combo is one of the best mopar strokers out there. I already have a forged 383 crank so, a 418ci would be pretty easy to build
Had a couple 451s not in Darts….one with Indy aluminum heads with solid roller and it was a screamer. Even the 451 with factory steel ported heads and just solid flat tappet was a screamer.
I had a 76 Charger that had a 400, lean burner … loved the car
The later 440's have thicker main saddles and ribs on the outside as well. We are at 600 n/a with our 505" RB and spray 250 on top of that.
Which years are you referring to?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion 72 up i think. just look for ribs where the freeze plugs are, and ribs above where the trans bolts to.
@frigglebiscuit7484
Will this be the case in passenger, truck, and commercial vehicles with the 440?
@@MrJohnnyDistortiongo to the 440 source website and read their block guide. The bigger saddle 440s are only in '76 and newer casting and not all of them have it. The only way to tell is to completely tear down the block and see it with the crank out. Good luck.
440 source info also has plenty of pictures to show you where to look for the differences. Good luck!✌️
@@frigglebiscuit7484go to the 440 source website and look at their block info guide. All pre '76 are the same in saddle casting. Only some '76 and newer have the larger cast and you can't tell with tearing the engine down. They have plenty of pictures there to show you the difference
That 400 would be great in that ‘77-‘78 Powerwagon that was pictured for a moment. A long time ago, 1978 to be exact, I bought a ‘73 Plymouth Fury that was a former cop car. It had a 400 with the 727 Trans. It had the factory dual exhaust as a lot of them did with the 400-440’s. As it turned out it was just as fast out of the hole as a friends ‘72 Fury, former State Patrol Car with a 440. Not to long after getting it, the second gear band in the Torque Flite snapped, which was no surprise considering the Department that owned it prior, but once the 727 was rebuilt with a shift kit, ect, it held its own with the ‘72 Fury’s around town, not to mention the occasional Camaro or Mustang. However a guy had a 340 Duster that launched pretty strong from the start, but once the big Fury got the RPM’s up it would end up pushing the Duster down the road!
I have a 1973 1ton 400 block. I had it sonic tested it's the thickest Mopar block I have ever tested.
I've personally have watched a factory long block 40p with 12lbs of boost run low 11's high 10's for a decade straight.
No one built a big block better than mopar
If you take a 400 and raise the compression ratio and add a good set of heads on the thing it's a great runner just like that
@79tazman ...yeah I watched a 400 big block run high 9's in the quarter mile a few years ago in a Duster & that was a pump gas combination... I think he had 3.91 gears in a 8.75 rear... I remember asking the owner some questions about it that day... definitely impressed by that Duster
Great info. I honestly was not familiar with the cold weather block. Awesome!!
My 72 Roadrunner is a 19 Jan build. I’m definitely going to check for those numbers. I’ve never heard of a cold weather block.
Sounds like you’ve got a good chance! Love those 2nd gen roadrunners by the way. Please keep me posted on what you find 👍🏻
@@sorta_stock Will do!
They were referred to as ( winter block)by most people but they are the same thing
I, at one time was going to build a 400 block and keep its stock short stroke but use a set of 440 4bbl rods with a set of custom forged Ross pistons. The longer 440 rods create an even 2.0 rod length to crank stroke ratio.
I've read several times that that is what Mopar Performance considers to be the most optimal performance rod ratio. Big bore, short stroke, long rod, = an engine that will rev to the moon, love doing it, and last forever doing it.....
Then I was going to use an electronic fuel injection system with a twin turbo set-up on it, just to make it really good and fun.
That’s where I was going with this engine. Thought was to grind the forged 383 crank’s rod journals down to 2.2 (Chevy) and use a longer rod and stroker piston. It would increase the displacement to 418 while achieving a 2.0 rod ratio.
Yes, ok I see, and increase the stroke when you're regrinding the rod journals.
It's kinda been 25 years since I've been into building hot rods (lost my license and therefore almost lost my will to live), but I remember reading something about using 198 slant 6 rods in a big block, because if I remember correctly, those rod journals are the same size. Don't hold me to that though, lol.
@@ericwilson2585 I’ll have to look into the 198 rods. Sorry to hear about the license. As a hot rodder, I can only imagine the struggle. Hopefully you stayed in the community as there are many ways to still enjoy these beautiful machines.
@@ericwilson2585 Bummer about the license!
This is something know one seems to understand the longer rod of the 440 makes it a superior engine to the 400 all else being equal. A longer rod reduces frictional forces and piston speed therfore improving horsepower. I'm a mechanical engineer and it's funny to see all these people hyping up the 400 ci engine and not understanding engine dynamics.
Great video great info! Building a 400 right now. Yes, the 400 is the way to go. I've been on the lookout for a 230 block, but I'm on Maui so chances are slim to none here. Hehe. Goodluck with your build.
The struggle is definitely real out there lol. Glad you found a 400 though!
I have a 64 440 with a stock 1974 big block 400 from a truck and I can barely keep it under control. Instant burnout machine.
I need a sure grip asap just so I can concentrate on the other things it may need. Street car so probably no other modifications
to the engine. Plan on a new Tourqueflight , get rid of the push button shifter ,and new wiring and it’s done… 400 cu……. Massive power plant. Good for street.
Got a couple of 400's, going to be dropping my truck motor into the New Yorker, and rebuilding the old one to go with my 440 and 413
There was an article in MoPar muscle magazine back in spring or summer 2011-12 (can't remember) about a challenger with a 451 stroker turbo'd making 1000hp, I believe it was a CW block too.
My 471 made 580 RWHP on pump gas turns to 7000 rpm with a somewhat mild hydraulic roller 252/254 cam in my 66 Belvedere. Jesse from skmfx has been building killer 400 base strokers since the late 90’s
580RWHP is crazy good. That’s essentially hellcat power in a streetable big block. Most of the new muscle crowd would struggle to drive a car with that much power and no electronic assistance
What cylinder heads?
@@stephenwest798 a heavily ported edelbrock victor head.
Thanks for the info, that's a lot of rear wheel HP. @@user-ql4hu2hc6s
I don't have a cold weather block, but I do have three 400's, 7 440's, 7 383's, 3 340's and on and on. What I don't have is what I want, a 426 Hemi, had one once and never had anything else that even came close to it in performance.
Great video I cannot stand 383 I never liked it never will… I still think the V 10 that’s in a viper is the best motor ever made only because it is so bulletproof and now you made me a believer of the 400 being a great as well.
I haven’t dug into my ‘96 v10 yet but, that’ll be on the horizon! I’ve got a few upgrades to install before tossing it into the Barracuda.
There were a lot of good running 383's back in the day and it was common to see one blow the doors off a 440 and they were durable as well, can't understand why one would not like them.
You're right got a 400 stroke to 451 enderly stud girdle 12.5 co
with B1 Heads 760 roller in a 75 duster 940s all day constantly naturally aspirated looking to get in the high 8s
Sounds like a sweet setup. Especially in a duster.
No argument on this video. "440 Source" has posted a detailed explanation on the Low Deck 400's strengths over it's kin; the 383 and even the mighty 440 at least a decade ago
The Main Webbing areas on the 400 are significantly thicker compared to the the 383 and 440's making it a better candidate for high power builds, especially in the case of a 495 + CID Stroker application.
So let's see the advantages.....
• Bigger Bore
• Shorter/lighter weight piston (wrist pin thru the Oil Ring is another topic)
• Shorter Pushrods
• Stronger (cold weather) Blocks
• Shorter Deck Height
Undersquare, Square or Oversquare, I like the Low Deck 400. Chrysler knew exactly what they were doing and developed maximum potential as a foundational blueprint in every engine they designed.
PS: Good luck finding any production Chrysler Block that sonic checks over .220
The foundry may have been generous with high nickel content, but thick bore sleeves was not apparent, it seems. If someone has proven otherwise, please post.
I just picked up a "230" block yesterday. Now I have two. The 400 is a great platform to start a build.
Nice! I know of a couple yards in Southern California that have some 230 blocks. They’re still out there
All 1972 4 barrel 400's came with forged steel crankshafts, while most 2 barrel 1972 400's got cast Ron crankshafts. For 1973, only manual transmission 400's got forged steel crankshafts and automatics got cast iron crankshafts. For 1974 through 1978, both manual and automatic transmission 400's got cast iron crankshafts.
New sub, good information. Kinda reinforces what others have said. Will be looking at some of your other uploads too. Stay safe.
Thanks Scott. I’m currently prepping my budget built ‘68 Dart for Duct Tape Drags so, you’ll see some of that content soon!
i have a 73 400 in my 4 speed 70 dart. came out of a monaco police car. oil pan even had a baffle in it. stock pistons, small plug motorhome heads with coolant ports around the spark plugs(bowl ported), 383 steel crank, lunati voodoo flat tappet cam (268/276, 494/513 lift, 110 lsa), stock rockers, and a weiand stealth intake. thing is terrifying.
Recently acquired a 69 Cuda coup ,ran the numbers, came back a 361, asking around, supposedly came stock, motor looks fresh outside and in, runs amazing. I never heard of this engine. Body itself has had 6 or 7 colors, faded, great patina, makes me think old race car, only very light body damage so far. I need down pipes, any suggestions where to acquire?
I have a 230 block with a 10/07/71 casting date WITHOUT the bigger saddles. Ive been pulling 230 blocks since '98 and have found several October blocks without them. Ive never found a September or earlier block without them.
Also, I have noticed that the overwhelming majority of the early 230 blocks will have a June casting date.
Happy hunting! ✌️
The cold weather block aside from the external reinforcement, the main web reinforcement in later years of production is an 800+ hp block...
Only pre October '71 casting 230 400 blocks have the big saddles
400s rock. I've had 4 of em. One was from a 72 Polara, but I hopped it up and put it in my 68 Charger. Great motors. With a valve spring upgrade and a cam, they'll turn 6000 all day. I've always wanted to build a 400 long rod motor, using 440 rods: 3.38 stroke and 6.768 rods = a 2:1 rod ratio!
I'm gonna Spray my 400 to the Moon 🌙 for DUCT TAPE! 🤘🤘🤘
Get it Ruben
I built a 400 block stroked to 511-518 with B1 heads and i filled the bottom with hardblock up to the freeze plugs with 4 bolt mains from pro gram specialist, 1050 Dominator and 23/8 primarys 15:5-1 compression made 928 HP 800 torque at Koffles dyno great motor lasted until i sold it, BM rods alum the weakest part is the deck will leak
I'm a big block guy but I've learned to never under estimate a real 340 motor
And a 340 is a bored 318, right? The early 318s were the most underrated mills Chrysler ever built!
oh yeah, they had the nickname "baby Hemi", and not because they were like the Poly 318.
I grew up in the snow belt, but hotrodders wanting their muscle car to be an everyday summer car often figured out what a good small block in an economy car could accomplish. with a 4 speed and the right gears, you could do better than a big block's 8-15 mpg, handle in the corners, and swap to a shorter rear tire at the strip and get 13's or better with a power adder (ie, NOS). In my time, the real trick was to find an early 360--it had the 340's water jackets so you could bore past 4.04 inches and get 379 cid, and the heads had 340 ports just smaller valves. find an OEM 340 intake and you had nice affordable street performance with the right cam.
@@philhand5830 318’s were far from underrated. They were rated exactly where they belonged.
not quite, they were cast with a larger cylinder and thicker.@@philhand5830
We built an engine about 25-30 years ago using a 400-block bored .060 over. Offset ground 440 crank, BBC rods and 455 Buick pistons. 466 cubes, 13.75 to 1 C/R. Comp solid roller cam. Wish we could have found better heads for it. Good Super Gas motor, though.
Building a 13.75 to 1 CR big block in California would have me buying stock in VP Racing Fuels haha.
Nothing new but nice seeing some young folks figuring out our old tricks.
Can’t let these secrets go. Especially as prices rise and fewer folks continue to build the classic stuff.
Reading between the lines it sounds like to me you're saying Big Blocks are better than small blocks. I completely agree.
Hey hey hey… the 400 is a different animal lol.
@@sorta_stock Sure it is.
LOL!!
Gotta put the 400 and the 340 at the top of the podium 🙌🏻
@@sorta_stock I'm poor, 383's and 440's are dirt cheap so they're at the top of my list.
I have a 1978 D150 with a 360 in it and a 1972 New Yorker with a 400 in it...I have been looking for a Hemi combo to put in the truck. Instead of ditching both running motors I've decided to swap them and build up the truck. Both cars are extremely clean one from Wisconsin with the 400 garage kept for 30 years not driven and the truck from California.
Check out the casting number and date on that 400 you have. Even if it’s not the CWB I describe in the video, it’ll still make a killer stroker
Lol this got me by the thumb pic of the pickup. I had a military 1977 3/4 ton 4x4 dodge ..best truck I ever had after I rebuilt it.
I actually bought that pickup for 1200 bucks sight unseen and drove it 1000 miles home. It was a super cool experience. I love the Dodge tin grills
News to me. Perciate it...good vid kid. And FU46
My 400 makes 613hp/610tq, previous made 723hp/650 TQ. Got 2 spare blocks👍🏻
Pump gas builds?
@@sorta_stock yes both. Current one in the Jackpine Savage is 493 stroked eddelbrock heads, mild cam. Dynoed on 91 octane. First one was 512 Stroker with trick flow 270s flat tappet cam. Both run on pump gas.
@@BigfootsnMopars That’s awesome. I’d love to see people’s reactions when you fire it up at the pump lol
Great Video, I am trying to learn about my 451 stroker and this is a big help thank you!
Thanks! Love 451 stroker combo. What do you have it in?
@@sorta_stock 1971 Dart Swinger
@@sorta_stock video th-cam.com/video/0cUOQbEOFyM/w-d-xo.html
@@Destroyer1320 That’s badass man. Good luck at NNN! Gotta remind those B and E body guys who’s boss
They just need a little compression. Years ago Hot Rod (?) Magazine featured a build that used a pop-up 440 pistons and made 650ish HP with a tunnel ram.
Yes,915 heads, with oversize valves.
Steve Dulcich.
666 horse power 440.
Cool video nice information I just checked my 400 block and it was dated August 21/71, so I guess I've got the engine you're talking about.
Nice! If you ever decide to build it the sky’s the limit.
@@sorta_stock the engine came out of Gramps 72 Newport with only 50,000 miles and it could smoke the rear tires it was not a slouch at all.
I'm a GM LSA 800 rwhp owner, but I know that the 400 w/a 440 crank is an absolute n/a MONSTER!!!
Not sure that will work. That’s a B block an RB is the 440 (STANDS FOR BLOCK and RAISED BLOCK).
The 400 got a bad name because it was always stuck in 4500 lb turds with 2.45 gears. 400s ROCK !
Usually but not always. One of my best friends had a 73 Road Runner with the 400 and 4 speed options. That car was no joke. At the time I was rolling a 70 Mach 1 351c 4 speed. Not much on the street at the time would give that Stang a run for it's money but that Road runner def did. Of course we're not talking "stock" for either car. ;)
actual compression ratio of a 400 was a pitefull 7.7:1. advertised compression was 8.2:1 which does not compute when you do the math. factory cams were very low lift also. give a 400 9:1 compression and some reasonable valve lift and it will outrun most 383s.
Dude, I literally am doin the research for buildin a 451.🤙🤙
Dude the 451 and 470 stroker combos have got to be the best builds for a street/strip car. Good rod ratio, excellent part availability, decent piston skirt length, etc. hope you dyno that 451 when it’s done!
It’ll be a while but yes i will. I’ll be lookin for 650ish streetable hp. I have the 440 forged crank and H beam rods and a 400 block. I believe it’s a ‘72 block.
Same stroke as a 318 I believe 3.38" right? Always loved the 400 on paper you hit all the points.
@67dodgepolara ... 273/318/340 all had a 3.31" stroke spec (stock)... the 383/400 had a 3.38" stroke ...really not a big difference in spec when you think about it... only .07" inch
451 stroker (400 block/440 Crank) is probably the best stroker combo out there. Rev monster/torque animal.
People don't realise the "OG" original 400 Shallow deck R height with the big bore wall thickness block was a planned ball stud Hemi base. It did everything the Ford 400 and 351M couldn't do...that is, it was Reliable, Crack Free and don't forget, 255 HP net was an R and Q code 1972 and 73-74 Cleveland HO or later CJ 351 figure ( 261, 266, 275, then another rating for 73 and 74, which eclipsed Every other Ford Big Block and almost all the other Big Blocks except the SD 455 for 1973). The Mopar big block isn't a dopey thinwall Henry. Ford didn't make a cold Weather block 351M or 400 untill 1978. Ford improved it, but Never Fixed it. Chrysler Corp didn't really screw over the 400 Big Blocks.
The 429 & 460s are very heavy & sturdy. It's common to bore them .080 over & some more.
Love channel, everyone is all about the new gen small block hemis, and they're badass. But I'm talking about old school MoPar small and big block V8 engines!
The old stuff just has a certain cool factor that can’t be touched
Thanks for the info didn't know the existed to be honest with you and I've been dealing with Mopars all along time thanks again
No problem! Hopefully I’ll get to build this block here soon and see what it’ll do. Having fun documenting the projects on TH-cam.
You can punch a 400 block to a .030 over 440 piston, take a light cut off the top of these .030 over cast 440 pistons, with this you can run a set of 906 heads and Cometic has head gaskets in all kinds of thickness so you can set the compression where you want it and still be pretty cheap overall. Take carefulmeasurements because you will start with the piston out the top of the bore but in 69 some 383s came with pistons sticking out also and they ran up into the open chamber 906 heads. This is just a cheap way to build compression. Hard to do it with a 383, just got to bore it too far for most castings.
Good vid! Are you going to be at Fall Fling in Van Nuys?
I completely forgot they had a fall show. Do you know the dates? Couldn’t find it online
I had an early 70s van with a 400 in it. We put a Weiand intake and a 3310 holley, a small cam and headers. It was scary to have a van that fast.🤣
I’m just picturing the van doing a big Smokey burnout lol
@@sorta_stock Always! I was in high school. It was long wheel base, extended rear, no windows, former Air force Police van. I traded it for a 76 dodge 300 4x4, 4 door. An oak tree in a blind corner at 70 ended that truck.
Funny how those trees don't move!@@michaels.ramsey7803
Great vid. I had forgotton about the cold weather 400. IMO,a 400 is the best of both worlds,being oersquare as you stated AND you can line bore a 400 out to take a 440 steel crank (i much prefer this route rather than cutting down a good 440 crank down to 400 main size) BUT either way you get a big inch big block that will REV while still maintaining the desire oversquare architecture.
I’d be curious to hear if anyone experienced adverse effects from line boring to the 440 crank size as opposed to turning the crank down. The block has a ton of material but, I wonder if the caps would become a limiting factor with the bore.
@@sorta_stock I have done the 440 crank in 400 block combo in 5 or 6 engines & they have all been 550 HP & below street engines & never had any issues with a 6200 RPM redline. My machinist is the one who advised me that the 400 block could stand being line bored out to 440 main size way better than risking turning a 440 crank mains down to 400 size. Higher HP's & power adders could cause issues,i just don't know.
Richard Ehrenberg prefers cutting the block, because crankshaft strength isn't just the material, but the overlap of the journals. its why increasing stroke length often leads to bigger mains (on say Pontiac 455 or chevy 400 small block). about the only issue is you'll move the crank up closer to the cam so there may be some slack in a timing chain and the piston will be closer to 0 deck at TDC than before.
You may not have the redline capacity of the B block, but the increase in displacement is just shifting the torque curve lower in the RPM spread--gear accordingly and it may be a great way to use an automatic trans on the street, since you'll probably run a lower stall speed and thus less heat.
Any of the later 400 blocks are stronger than the early 383,440, just weigh them and you'll see the later blocks are heavier that means more metal in the mounting ears and in the main saddles...but may not mean thick cylinder walls all the way around sonic test is the sure way to find out and a good place to read up on all this is 440 source's everything you wanted to know about big block mopar engines. Funny the engines that couldn't get out of their own way end up the strongest and becoming more sought after... guess that why I have 10 of them 😂
The earlier the (B/RB) block, the better the quality of the iron.
@@bigblockjalopy the earlier blocks are just a little bit harder.... Still doesn't off set for thicker mains or for more iron in all the right places of the later blocks.... wouldn't turn any of them down.
@@moparnut6286 my opinion has has always been, that the B engine is THE prime engine from Chrysler. 1.8ish rod ratio, which is considered perfect, and much sturdier than the RB. The B is one of the most rugged engines in automobile history, so I don't think the thicker mains are any advantage. 383s are good for 700++ HP without girdle. good enough for me. BTW, my 1959 383 has about 370K miles on the clock and still runs like new,. Never caused any problems whatsoever in the 34 I drove it daily. Past may I had to pull the heads for the 1rst time, because of the inleaded fuel over here, that caused 2 leaking valves (easy fix).
That only applies to "Post" '72 non- stress relieved blocks. American car manufacturers were cutting weight everywhere.
@@bigblockjalopy I agree the B block is superior as far as physics goes cause of all that you stated and I have five 383 blocks from 67 to 71...and 5 or 6 400 blocks but still I wouldn't throw away any RB block I'd run them too!👍
Thanks for the info! Regards from Ody Slim
I have a 400 in my 1974 Charger SE and thought about doing a build from 440 Source. I thought it would be cool to have a 510 c.i.d. fuel injected big block in my car......just an idea 💯😎
I like the 512 combo but, the piston pin is really high and the skirts are pretty short.
@@sorta_stock I'd also thought about just doing a stock rebuild but with tighter tolerances and a couple uograded parts like long tube headers, better heads and cam. This car is just a cruiser.
@@218422100 For a cruiser, I think a 451 stroker is probably the best combo out there. They make great power, have all the reliability of a stock 440, and can take a lot of abuse. All in a smaller and lighter package
451 stroker is the way to go James. Best all round engine. Take some weight off with ally heads/water pump housing etc. You will regret the 510.
It was hidden for all us motor heads , 👍👍 up to you 🏁🏁 . Excellent for a dirt circle car 🏁.
Great video. Whatever gets it done for you! Some guys like the Big Blocks some guys like the small blocks. Others the Slant six. I've always been a 440 + 6 guy. . Good luck with your projects out there!
Thanks! Gotta get these projects on the road while there’s still a gas station in town
I plan to build a 400 , I have 2 . I also have a set of 69 440 hp closed chamber heads . Block, heads, mild cam should be a good runner. Can't wait to find out
I’ll be assembling this 400 in the next few months. Lookin forward to strapping it on the dyno 👍🏻. If you upload any videos of your 400 once it’s built please tag me!
I think if you do some checking, those closed chamber heads are 1967, casting number 2780915, if they are closed chamber and that is not the casting number then they are not 440 HP heads.
I know this is old but really good info new subscriber here
Thanks man! I just finished building the 400 block discussed in this video. Build series is posted on the channel. Looking to fire it up in the next few weeks.
I pushed snow with a 400 Ramcharger. It was an animal.
I didn't ever get much experience with mopars. I had an uncle with a yellow 340 duster, that was mildly built, but it seemed like a rocket when I was a kid. Me and my dad ended up dragging a 62 Chrysler 300 hard top home when I was 14. Fresh points, new coil, and a set of wires and boom, off she went. But the floors were gone, no brakes, no trunk floor....it wasn't great. But a guy offered us 1000 bucks and I bought an 84 Chevy Caprice that ran and drove. Looking back I wish I would have stuck with that Chrysler a little longer. Factory torque numbers were ridiculous (480 ft lbs with 330 hp on single and 380 on dual carb) 413 single afb wedge, 727 torque flight, 373 8 3/4 rear with a pinion snubber. And a 140 mph speedo under a fish bowl that all lit up blue. But in 2000 it was just an ugly old car to most people.
I have a400 out of a 72 d200 club cab. . I have 24 big block mopars here from 383 to 440. . My neighbor is Mopar drag racer he said 400 will rev faster then the rest of big blocks and bore was bigger. He wants this 72 block in the worst way. I said no I'm saving it for 72 roadrunner when I convert it from 340 to a big block
All things being equal, they will all Rev the same
Great video ! thanks for sharing . Looking for a 400 for myself . everyone wants BIG $$ for a block that may not pass a mag teat or a sonic test .
What would you spend for a good cold weather 400 complete
never knew this i have a factory 400 in a 74 crewcab d200 adventurer original but rough right now. but pulling it to put a cummins in it. but since i was gonna pull it i was gonna put it in my 75 d200 custom that i had i bought for the box so guess i'll check it when i disassembled it.
Can’t argue against a Cummins swap but, that 400 built would be a ton of fun in a slammed d200
I would have a better chance of going to the desert in Arizona and wishing for a falling star to put me out of my search for that gem, thanks for reminding me!
I just noticed your engine is dated 10 1 71 that's my birthday I turn 21 I would love to own that engine
2:43 that car was on sale in Nevada not to long ago
´That is not a cold weather block. It's just an early 230 block. A cold weather block has got extra ribbing outside the block, and as far as I'm aware they were only offered as RB blocks. The early 230 blocks have more material around the mains, which is where the problems usually first ocure at high horsepower, the other point is thin cylinder walls. No casting number is better than another when it comes to cylinder wall thickness. You must check them to know. You can have a thin wall early 230 block or a thick wall 530 block. I do not know how much the thicker main webs of the 230 block help the bottom end strenght. I have never had or used one. I have built several 700+ hp stock block engines with 400 and 440 blocks, and during the 30+ years of building them, only one has failed after 20 years of street & strip use. Most of were built with stock main caps and ARP studs. I think that up to about 600 hp you can do with the stock main bolts. After that the ARP studs with a line hone. If more reliability is needed I have used aluminum caps, basically at over 700hp even though I have had engines above that with stock caps. The caps will walk around at these power levels. Currently we are running a 400 with a factory 383 forged crank, and taking 820 hp out of it at 6700 rpm with a help of a roots blower at 10 psi. So far no problems.
Yes, this is a cold weather block. The only difference in a CWB is the main webbing thickness as shown in the video. I’ve got a 383 forged crank that I picked up for this engine. Thought was to turn down the rod journals to accommodate the aftermarket Chevy rods. I’m a big ARP main stud believer as well
You are correct the 413 industrial was the only block that Chrysler Corp called a cold weather block. It had grid webbing around the freeze plugs and 0.4 cylinder walls.
Any other block being called a cold weather block is regional slang by very few Mopar enthusiasts
In the Mopar industry some people called this engine the Rodney Dangerfield of the big blocks because it got no respect in my opinion this engine deserves its respect because hell I had a 400 you know in a 75 and a 75 roadrunner that I put in myself and I had fun with that motor good good strong good strong foundation you know I didn't have to put any hard block in it only made 400 horsepower out that motor but I had fun so if you're going to build a 400 go ahead build one make a hand me killer work for me holla if you hear me
"You Betcha" I went that way and put in 440 source 4 bolt mains! super stiff.
since even mopar fans thought late model RB and Bs were weak as Mopar moved to bankruptcy, those who could pick up motorhome 440's all day hated the big bore 400 that was late to the party. Smart fans turned down a 440 crank and made a 454 rival. I might not call it a 426Hemi killer unless you could find a Stage V hemi head conversion, but the Hemi definitely needed to be tuned to a razor's edge compared to a 440'Sixer that can be maxed out to 528 cid.
There are some serious aluminum wedge heads out there that will get you Hemi like performance and not hurt the low end torque due to crappy low speed intake velocity like the Hemi Heads have. Basically, the new after market wedge headed B or RB block can beat down a Hemi .
@@451dskots88 When Indy first came out with those heads I believe you're talking about (tho i know Edelbrock and others make some) a car buddy of mine got 'em to make a "dark horse" out of his 340 Dart he swapped an RB block into. First he complained they weren't a "bolt on" as advertised (well...duh..that's not the block i think they were intended to bolt onto) then he blew the 440 engine shifting at 7,600 rpm and then complained McCandless and others wanted to sell him a full-house shortblock once he told them about his roller cam (which he never wanted to reveal its specs, oy vey one of those old skool guys) and Indy heads. Both he and his wife claimed he had owned 100 performance cars, but after that story i figured he might have but that still didn't mean he knew F-all about building a performance car. he also was a builder who loved to blame everyone who built his stuff for him for why it always failed.
so that was a lesson in listening to witnesses :) but yeah, i agree with you, the wedge heads that are available now make a Gen II Hemi obsolete for the street, unless you just want to impress (obviously its different on a race track and when the owner starts playing around with fuel varieties and octane levels). As for a 3G Hemi, if you can keep the cam lifters from eating themselves, you have a nice package. I grew up around big blocks and have some to use up still (pontiacs and oldsmobiles), however...what can be done with a stroker small block naturally aspirated makes me rethink shelling out the same cash for a big block.
The only place that intake velocity killed my 426 Hemi was between 70 and 90 mph in third gear, which was a problem because I would drop from 80 to 70 shifting from 2nd to third with that long t-handle shifter, but once it hit 90mph it was game on. I only raced on the street red light to red light so it only came into play if it was the last red light leaving town and only the better running competition would come close to catching me before I hit 90 and then it was bye bye to them. I came out of the hole at 1800 rpm and pushed the pedal quickly to the floor, not instantly, backed off the throttle to grab second and again pushed the pedal to the floor and that was 80 mph in fourteen feet time and time again and the launch from second put me a block ahead of every car I ran against in my area which really pissed the boys off as they claimed they could beat all the other Hemi's but not mine, all in technique and 3.54 rear gears not too low and not too high. That was running on bias ply tires, so traction was an issue for everyone which was a downfall for most of those who pulled up alongside me at a red light, in short, revving it up and dumping clutch just end up in a lot of wheel spinning while I drove away.@@451dskots88
all the hemi needed was a gear. add a bigger cam and headers to the hemi and everything else is toast. the undisputed king of the american v8s is the 426 hemi.
So, you didn't read my post, yea if you were running a four speed with a 3.54 rear you needed a taller second gear so you would hit 100mph in second and you needed a six-speed tranny so you could reach full speed potential of that unlimited hp. Every fool I raced against told me I needed 4.11's and I had to explain to them that that would only make me slower because I would be throwing away the advantage of all that torque and if I needed a lower gear then why was I beating them?? The other problem was all the dealers setting the valve lash at 0.00 because no one would buy them set at 0.28 intake and 0.32 exhaust because they clattered so loud which is why they had a reputation for valve train wear.@@danielslocum7169
My 360 truck engine ain't a 400, but fingers crossed it is a winter block-I could really use that where I live.
free horse power trick...take your driver-side pistons,flip them 180 and put them on the passenger side and vice versa. mopars have off-set wrist pins to stop piston slap on start up. when you flip them like this you get more inertia on the power stroke.
Urban myth. Does nothing.
That is a fallacy, only adds piston noise
I have never seen that done with a back-to-back dyno test to prove or disprove the claim, but it also is claimed to reduce friction between the piston and cylinder walls, did it with my 340 and if there is piston slap, I can't hear it. @@MP-pz9oe
do not do this. uncle phony is not the end all, be all.
my cousins crewcab dually had a 400 in it. I thought it was a medium duty truck block.
400 is good for 500 to 600 hp which is all one needs to have fun with
The 400 is an odd duck. In factory trim it is nothing special.
To make a badass 400:
Take the block, then throw away the entire rest of the engine and replace it.
In factory trim, there is no way to produce any quench, the standard pistons don't make compression, and you can;t spin them as fast as a 383 and they are missing cubes compared to a 440.
It's when you start swapping modern tech onto them that they come to life. You can do the same for the other big blocks, but the potential combos available for a 400 is a bit higher, and people are willing to take the plunge with them because there isn;t really any other choice. With a 383 or a 440, you can use most of the factory parts and get respectable power, so there are options not to jump in and spend major $$$. With a 400, you can warm it up a little, but otherwise you need to strip it and build it.
So the 400 is an odd duck in mopar land. If you want one, be patient. People know there is a lot of hype about them lately and are just waiting for some mental case to come give them $1200 for their incomplete, stuck, no accessories 400. Look around, you will find one for $250 bucks that actually still spins. Might have to drive a ways to get it but they are out there. Don't pay the hype inflation. A wise man once said the engines will always be out there. It's the cars that rot away or get destroyed. Evfentually we will have engines laying around with no car to put them in. make sure you spend your money on your ride, not on a junkyard pull engine.
all true.
400's have the biggest bore out of all the Mopar engines even 440 don't have the bore size of a 400cI. I have played with some 400's never had a cold weather block but they are great engines and in my opion the best block to use if wanting to build a performance engine like a stroker
Big bore small main.Love-em
I never heard this info about the cold-weather blocks. It is hard to tell younger guys what dogs the 400's were considered to be when they were in production. The 1970's were mostly a wasteland for high performance cars. There were a few cars that still ran well, but not many. It is ironic that these low-compression smog-dogs turned out to have so much potential.
I’m just glad that they’re still affordable thanks to the smog-era production stats
@@sorta_stock Another irony is that the 400 blocks will become less affordable if we keep talking about them.
@@randyrobey5643 please don't mention low deck hemi!
I know. :>/
all true.
To my mind the biggest downside of low deck strokers is aftermarket intake availability.
If only they'd make a raised port head that flows say ~350cfm so you could bolt on any RB intake then you could more easily exploit the 400's stroker potential.
There was a head called the Stage VI that flowed ~400cfm and had raised ports so any RB intake fiited the B (requiring spacers on the RB but none on the B) but they were hardly affordable. IIRC they were a Mopar part #.
Intakes definitely aren’t cheap for the low decks. I was lucky and scored a nice Airgap unit with the engine.
That is a great combination I did 451 stage lV heads and tunnelram when was mud drag racing.
im pretty sure the edlebrock victor big block mopar heads have those raised intake ports.
@@sorta_stocklove your content! By design, any B or RB manifold including stock is an airgap. That's why there is only a RPM intake and not a RPM Airgap available for big block Mopar
I just sub your channel so I can watch your build although I’m doing a 68 440 block that’s standard bore so I got it for a grand a horse deal about a thousand I payed I hope my 68 block was for a 68 super bee it’s been stored from day one
Thanks Jeff! Gotta love a std bore score.
My grandpa was in the car industry back in the 70s and he tuned police interceptors for his town he told me the fastest car he ever did was a car that had a 400 block in it and he decided to put a 440 cam in it he said him and the deputy went out on a highway and my grandpa was driving he pegged the speedometer out and it kept going faster and faster until the deputy started yelling at him to slow down😂
They use the same cams. The 440 crank can be used to make it a 451 stroker with some machine work. That would have raised the performance. 👍
I took off the lean burn
74 413 magnum powerwagon here, yeah it fuckin goes.
OK, got a question. Never heard of the term cold weather block. In the small block world truck engines (318, 360) were supposed to be cast from hi nickel iron and designated with a dash 3 at the end of the engine size cast into the block. What about 400 truck engines? Truck engines as in motor homes & heavy trucks (1 ton jobs). Did they do the hi nickel thing on them also and if so what was the designation? Asking for someone who has little experience with big blocks - - - - -me.
The general consensus is that pre-1974 big blocks came with the higher nickel content. The nickel wasn’t looked at as a strengthening component. Instead, it was used to resist corrosion in the block. Just so happened to benefit the strength as well. Lots of people have tested the theory and determined negligible results between years with the exception of marine blocks and cold weather blocks.
@@sorta_stock But they didn't mark them in any way?
I can't think of a single engine shop in San Diego that sonic checks blocks. It is typical that any Chrysler Block will check below .200 inch. I would just run it. There are other Mopar owners that have even gone .070 and .080 over. If you're going the Race Only route, it doesn't matter. It's gonna get abused.
plus one sub
Thanks man! I appreciate the support