DJI Phantom 3 - Camera Settings Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2015
- A quick tutorial illustrating optimal camera settings for shooting more professional video on your Phantom 3. Please feel free to comment, ask questions, make requests and subscribe.
***UPDATED*****
The app has been updated since the recording of this video. That said, the principals and settings are the same....but in slightly different locations within the app interface. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
after watching all of your videos it makes so much more sense to decrease saturation, contrast and sharpness. This should help out a lot. thank you.
Awesome.
Wow. Someone who actually knows how to teach! Loved the examples of moire and aliasing.
arlo4823 Thanks for the kind words.
Applied this in the field, and yes the video looks much better. Thanks Frederick, and keep these tutorials coming.
Great and thanks for the comment.
I love to give credits where they are due. For the technical side of the camera settings, your posts far outshine all the others I have come across, keep up the good work :)
Really appreciate your support. Thank you.
Hi Frederick, Really great tutorials. I have been watching many TH-cam channels and yours is right up there. Thank you very much. I and am sure many other are learning alot.
+Simon Ade Thanks for the comment, Simon.
Great video tutorial - as they say, a picture (or in this case, a video) is worth 1000 words. explaining AND SHOWING us the effects of taking the sharpness setting to -2 and what MOIRE & ALIASING look like were very helpful to avoid these common pitfalls in our own videos. Thanks for all your time & trouble in putting this video together...
Very welcome. And thank you for the comment.
Thanks for sharing this professional, educational video. The calm music helps concentrating on the content.
I enjoyed the high production value, practical information and calming music. Tremendous video!
Thanks for the comment. Really appreciate it.
+Frederick Hagan Hi, which are the best SD your using. And thanks for such a great video
Thanks for the kind words. My favorite ND is the SRP GND16-8. This filter is made for aerial filming.
So nice to have commentary from a photographer! Thank you!
+Michael Simonds Thanks for the comment, Michael.
Again, thanks for the great video, Frederick!
Short and to the point!
Please make more...
Going out to test the setting!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck!
Got my phantom 3 just now, and this is the 1st thing im doing. Watching your camera setting. Thanks for the guid good sir
Congrats and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for you quick reply. I wil try those settings. Thank you. Marc
Great video! I took my Phantom out for its first flight today. I went ahead and applied your settings and added an ND4 before putting it up in the air. I just wanted the video to look decent right off the bat. And it did! Thanks
+Jeff Linstead Fantastic, Jeff! Glad this video could help. Oh and check this one out if you have the time. Lots of folks have found this usefully in fully explaining why an ND is so important.... th-cam.com/video/AvBqeoonU88/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again for the comment and have a great day.
Great video! Just got the Phantom3 Professional for Christmas and this video will help immensely!
+Stephen Spriggs Thanks for the comment. Congrats on your new Phantom!
This really helped me. I could not find the advanced settings with sharpness contrast and saturation. Now it's alot better. Thanks alot!
+Jiffy Thanks for the comment, Jiffy. Glad the vid could help.
I've just subscribed to your feed and I find your tutorials very useful - thanks very much.
Thanks for the kind words. Really appreciate it.
New subscriber. I began in 2013 with a Phantom v1.1, and then lost all interest in AP work as FPV racing and miniquads took over my life. The price drops on the P3P brought me back into the fold- and now I am getting my feet wet all over again.
I stumbled upon your channel, and am absolutely astounded at how well you communicate the nuances of making a good tool a whole lot better.
Massive respect and appreciation. I need to catch up now- hoping there is a video on youtube rendering in your arsenal.
Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate it. And as far as rendering for TH-cam… ask and you shall receive!
th-cam.com/video/skOz2ZxiMfY/w-d-xo.html
Frederick Hagan
Gonna have to put you on the holiday card list, lol! I also should mention the appreciation for the link to SRP. I have been taking rank amateur aerial video for over 3 years now, and only in the last 24 hours have I truly began to see why all of my stuff looks like garbage.
As an old graphics professional that worked in the screenprinting field, so much of this stuff is lateral thinking and application. You have opened up an entire new realm for me to focus on- and yes, pun intended 8)
+Hiway LOL. That's great! I'm in advertising art director with 30 years of experience so I can completely relate. It's fun to have Ah-hah moments and to be able to see something brand-new, in a different way.
Be sure to watch the "Why Use ND's" video on my channel. It is the single most important tool for Ariel videography.
Thanks again for the kind words.
+Frederick Hagan Sorry for the misspellings. Darn this voice dictation!
Frederick Hagan
Irony- that was the first video I watched. I knew I was missing key elements to what professionals did in production and post, and ND filters, Camera settings, and proper format and rendering bitrates were what have been fouling all of my stuff the past few years. I was so busy concentrating on fpv racing and miniquad tech (a whole world unto itself) I never learned these essentials.
hi...thanks for the great tutorial...I will experiment today with your suggestions!
Just discovered your channel. Great job with several of the videos and extremely helpful.
Thanks for the comment.
Thank you fredrick appreciate your reply will give that a try tomorrow very helpful fab tutorials also thanks so much for sharing the knowledge
Thank you for the comment. Best of luck and happy flying.
Awesome explanation. Beautiful work. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment
thank you great video really easy to understand , about time I found a good video thanks once again
I just discovered your channel and subscribed. As I'm watching, 2 things hit me like a ton of bricks: 1) YOU ARE BOB ROSS and you've returned to teach us video 'painting' amirite?! Welcome back! 2) I realized just how little I know about videography with my P3Pro. Thanks for the videos and keep 'em coming, I have a lot to learn!
+jpsewell80 Thanks for the comments. Bob Ross! LMAO. What's funnier is you're not the first to mention this. At first I thought, "Oh just great...I'm putting people to sleep!" But I guess if you're gonna listen to me babble on for more than 2 minutes I'd hope to not drive people away with my grating loud and obnoxious voice over! LOL. Feel free to ask questions. I try my best to get back to people who are trying to get the most out of their aerial footage. Thanks much for subscribing and I hope my videos help.
+Frederick Hagan PSH Who didn't love Bob Ross!?!! lol Actually, i'm glued to my computer trying to get as much info as possible from these vids while i'm changing all my settings around ....Meditative and informative at the same time, great choice! Thanks again
+jpsewell80 Thanks much for the support! Get out there and create something beautiful! It's your video....you are the creator.... you sir, can do no wrong. :)
+jpsewell80 Oh and btw. If you don't already have one.... get an ND. It's the most important after market purchase you'll make for the P3 in regards to getting much higher quality video.....
th-cam.com/video/AvBqeoonU88/w-d-xo.html
+Frederick Hagan Done. Ordered. Thank you!
Great video, thanks very much for the tips! I can't wait to get out and try them!
+LikeOnATree Thanks for you comment.
Fredrick, great video, I bought a PS Pro a couple of months ago, never having flown before I have been concentrating more on piloting than controlling the camera,. I shot some video early Sunday morning hoping to catch a sunrise but the haze put paid to that. Anyway the video has a huge blue cast. I guessed it must be the white balance, strangely footage shot an hour later doesn't have the cast, maybe unintentionally changed a setting. I use FCP X and have managed to colour correct but not perfectly as I didn't setup to shoot flat which I will be doing from now. I have subscribed and will be try out you settings on my next flight. Great tip regarding the AWB, I confess that is all I have used as I am a nervous pilot, my P3 seems to have an affinity to trees. I bought a set of ND filters and have only used them twice my first effort resulted in a wasted days shooting, I was on Bali, the sun was so bright I couldn't see the video feed so failed to notice that the O ring had become dislodged and was in a figure of 8 over the lens. I now check the o ring when I change the filter. Thank you for taking the time to make the tutorials.
Many thanks for this, this has been a great help, I'll look to change my settings on my next flight out!
+La Boutique Maurice Thanks for the comment
Many thanks for being in touch, I'll endeavour to view your other youtube videos soon! :)
Very helpful tutorial. Never knew it was called a "moire." Thanks much.
+Patrick Glendening Thank you for the comments, Patrick.
So glad i watch this, i was dying to correct the moire and had no clue how or why it was happening
+Uriel Valdez Great. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks Frederick. Yeah I kinda know the basics of HDR but please expand on it as I will be bound to learn something new. Appreciate your help sir!
+Mike Harris HDR (High Dynamic Range) combines multiple exposures into one picture. Taking the best parts of the shot and combining them for a better all-round exposure and much more information. I took an HDR shot. The ground was almost black as it was sundown and very dark. I opened the RAW file in Photoshop's camera raw app and was able to bring up the ground areas to reveal a beautiful lush green environment! With the regular mode, once the blacks are crushed that's it. You can't get that information back. But with HDR mode the information isn't just flattened to black. The information is still there waiting for your to bring it to life.
+Mike Harris On the golf course shot. Notice the subtle bump on the horizon line instead of a nice straight flat line. Photoshops Camera Raw app has a nice DJI lends distortion filter preset that will remove that "bump'" or distortion. Giving your shot a nice, flat and straight horizon line.
Awesome! Good detail and explaination. Looking forward to experimenting with these settings. Wondered about defalt settings - everything seemed too harsh on AWB
+angusmacsac Great. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the Info! I heard these settings will work for the p4 as well. I recently purchased the p4 and coming from gopro 4 to p4 has been a shock to me. Hopefully your vid will correct most of my issues. Thanks again!
+Geoffrey Cowan Thanks for the comment. Yes the P4 and P3P camera are identical for all intense and purpose. So the basic principals behind these settings applyto the P4. Yeah big difference coming from the GoPro 4 to this. Gotta love video without that crazy fisheye distortion!
Thanks for the tutorial. By the way, you have a nice voice to work in a radio station.
Eliecer Marchante Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for another great video. Your point on aliasing and moiré is really interesting. I have been struggling with it without understanding how to get rid of it.
One more thing though. The more corrections you put in post, the more HP you need on your machine. This is actually why I tend to use "out of the box" clips and do the minimum post. My mac will chew for hours otherwise.
What would be your settings to get the "best" result directly from the P3?
Ive found that rendering out the footage at high bitrate, around 50-60 mbps, can help with the moire and aliasing that render compression gives. If its in the original footage then there isn't much you can do, but I haven't had many issues with that. Great videos, they've definitely helped me improve my phantom 3 shooting
Thanks for the comment. Really appreciate it
Thanks for that, I will adjust and have a play
I filmed some footage with the Phantom 3 proffesional, with all of your camera settings (except in 1080p Vs 4K), but i still noticed slight Moire and Aliasing in the footage. I wasn't sure if it was because I was shooting at 1080p instead of 4k, or if you were still noticing this problem in post editing. Thanks again for all the awesome tutorials
No that's a common problem in 4K or 1080. Did you take your in camera sharpening down to -2? Might try -3 and see how that works for you.
+Frederick Hagan it was -2, but i'll try -3 next time and see if that helps. I can't thank you enough for the help and quick responses!
Great info. Thank you!
Thanks for doing a very professional tutorial. I've watched so many and yours is by far the best. The first sign of a pro is don't use auto anything. I've tested you're recommended settings and still see some moire and aliasing in high footage at 4K 30fps in trees. Is my number 1 go to for reducing this anomalie sharpness? How low Is too low? I'm at -2 now. Closer to subject footage looks fine at -2. "Phantom3 Professional"
Jerry Thompson Thanks for the comment, Jerry. I keep my sharpness at -2. I never change it. Keep in mind the Phantom camera isn't perfect. It's a good camera but it has limitations. Try testing on -3 and see what that does for you. I've found it to be little soft at -3 but you might find better results than I did. Clear skies my friend.
Thanks for sharing the info really need the help
+Sky Soldier it's my pleasure and thank you for the comment.
Thanks much! Very helpful for the absence of a good manual.
Thanks for the comment.
Whew! Great job! I just started trying to use TH-cam, and am confused.. How do I get a list of all your videos? Have you done any on video editing? What editing software do you recommend for newbs, mids, pros?? I have some photoshop hours in but its been all uphill. Your vid is the first that seems to be professional and in depth. You have a new fan! Cliff
I have a complete play list on drone footage, editing and color grading. Just subscribe to my channel then click the little bell icon to be notified when I upload new content. Thanks for the support!
th-cam.com/video/j6SGn-WQgBQ/w-d-xo.html
Frederick, this was really really good info. One quick question about the settings you use for sharpness, contrast, and saturation. Do you leave them on those settings ALL the time, or would you maybe change them some if it were bright sunlight, cloudy, or a sunset/low light situation??
As for the white balance, do you adjust it if you're using ND filters, or do you try to use the right ND filter to where you shouldn't need to change the white balance much either?
I would love to see something like this on the use of ND filters and maybe polarizing filters and how to know which one to use.
Thanks!
White balance changes from warm to cool depending on the light conditions. Sunny, cloudy, early morning and overcast have different white balance color casts. You can use the WB presets for these. ND filters have nothing to do with white balance. That's what "neutral" stands for in neutral density filter. No color shift, it just makes the image darker. Hope this helps.
Very good Job! Thanks for the informations!
Thanks again for the comment.
Frederick, I absolutely love the way you do your videos. They are so informative and so easy to understand. Thank you. I do have a quick question. Do you think these setting would be best for an advanced as well?
+Jace Verdin Thanks for the kind words. Yes these settings are the same for all P3 cameras. Whether it's 1080 or 4K, the capturing process in each camera is the same.
+Frederick Hagan thanks! What settings would you recommend for shooting at night?
+Jace Verdin Well.... that's kind of a trick question. The P3s camera IS NOT low light performer. That said if you have an area with lots of ambient light you can shoot some pretty decent stuff. As far as settings go nothing changes other than the ISO. I wouldn't go higher than ISO 800 as beyond that the noise introduced in the footage is... well..... obnoxious.
I figured. I shoot with a Nikon D90 and trying to shoot things like fireworks at night is not usually an easy task. Added to that difficulty is the fact that with a drone everything continuously changes. I just finished watching your videos on color grading and listened to what you had to say about low light shooting as you were showing the clip of the park. Im just so curious how these guys get these absolutely gorgeous shots of these bigs cities. Is that the kind of ambient light you're referring to? The light from the street lights and buildings?
+Jace Verdin Yes exactly. Though I would never condone anyone flying around in a crowded city, that's the kind of bright ambient light needed. That said ISO800 is the cap. You've got a D90 so that's great experience for the basic physics of light, f-stop, shutter speed etc. My GH4 can shoot at 1600 easily and deliver wonderful results. The P3's camera is not much different than the GoPro I fly on my Phantom 2. Anything over 800 will show this terrible, large and blotchy noise artifacts as the sensor is just too small to bring in and capture enough light.
Nice video my question is I see your Settings for the sharpness contrast and the saturation. I also use a 5000 K for my custom setting. what would you recommend on the sharpness contrast and saturation settings to be not using D Log.
fantastic video thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment.
Hey Frederick, I like your work. I trust what settings you believe are best. But, can you explain a little why you wouldn't use -3 for saturation?
Thanks for the comment . -3 removed too much information for me. It was harder to get decent results in post. -2 saturation seemed to be the sweet spot in getting deep rich color grading.
Hey Frederick, Great tutorial! Do you suggest the same style and profile settings for the Phantom 4?
Tyler Larsson yes many have achieved wonderful results with the same settings.
Frederick Hagan Thank you for the quick response!
All this advice is gold. On another video you talk about adjusting the fps to get rid of the jelly effect. Where is that setting? I have ISO, Shutter and M.M.
Thanks for the comment. The technique that reduces "jello" is one by using an ND filters to get your shutter speed down. Check out the "Why ND's" video on my channel. That should help I hope.
I bought an adjustable one but still see the effect when I do panoramic scans. How do we check these speeds?
thank you for the great info
Thanks you for the comment... And you're most welcome.
thanks i subscribed, its gonna be very helpfull for my phantom viideos
Thanks for the comment!
wonderful.
thanks
Hi Frederick, very well done, it is exactly what i was looking for improving the usage of my new Panthom 3 pro in the camera capacity.Btw, i was not able to open the menu tab regarding the white balance. I was able to do it for other settings but not for it...have you some idea of why? I wanted to select 5.000K as you indicates but nothing :-( ...may be i must select a special menù in advance...
+Marco de Bigontina Thanks for the comment. Not sure what to tell you about setting a manual WB. I can do it manually just like any of the other settings. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
Thanks for all your effort in these tutorials. On the latest GO app, they have changed the symbols on the STYLE page. I guess they are standard to some but not to me. One is a triangle, one a divided circle and the other a box with a slanted line. Are these supposed to represent sharpness, contrast and saturation? Looking forward to your new work.
+Charles Merkel Thanks. I am still trying to figure out which settings to change. I do appreciate your reply. If I had one of my granddaughters here, I'm sure they could show me how to do it..
+Charles Merkel Ha...too funny. I believe your guess above is correct.
Under the new custom settings menu:
Triangle = Sharpness
Divided Circle = Contrast
Box with a Slanted Line = Saturation
Really great cometary on camera set up. I once shot a job on auto and that was a big mistake. Anyway, keep these coming, maybe you can make a video about aerial composition technique. I have been studying the differences between a good aerial video and those that look amateur, there is a difference I have found but still haven't put my finger on it. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. The best advise I can give is shoot slow, smooth and easy. No high speeds, jerky turns or abrupt movement. Then there's the color grading. This will give mood and emotion to your shots.
Frederick Hagan
Exactly!
+Frederick Hagan Do you change any of the gain settings for a smoother flight? So happy I've found your tutorials. Thank you!
+phantompip Thanks for the comment. Yes I have everything set to .40 instead of the .50 setting. It's a little smoother but without sacrificing control. e.g. A setting of .30 was a little too "floaty" feeling for me.
Hello Frederick, Super video ! Yesterday I purchased the Phantom 3 Advanced, and I have no ability to post-process my videos... only stills. Does this change your suggestions for video settings ? Thank you and will subscribe.
+Alan Peterson Thanks for the comments, Alan. The settings I use apply to video and photo. You still want a nice flat image - with no crushed blacks or blown out whites - so you can have plenty of room for adjustment in post production. Once you've crushed your backs or blown out the whites the damage is done and you can't get that information back. Hope this helps.
Great Video! Well Done!! Thumbs Up! What is the best settings you suggest for night video?
+ghostofmars83 Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately I don't recommend the P3 for night video...
The camera's sensor is way too small to gather enough light unless you're shooting in brightly lit downtown location. So I wouldn't recommend it as it simply can't deliver results without enough light for a proper exposure. Sorry I don't have better info for you than that but I'd rather be honest than misinform someone.
Frederick Hagan Thanks so much for the information...
thank you... very good explain
+Drone Eye “Alex” Thank you for the comment.
What music did you use for this video and where did you find it? Great video and great info!
Thanks for the kind words, E Johnson. The music is a bed I composed called "Bittersweet."
Fredrick, great video.. I used these settings yesterday with an ND4, footage turned out great.
Awesome!
Hi, many thanks for the tutorial, excellent. Question for you, I'm shooting with these settings bt I'm getting very jerky panning shots, any thoughts please? Thanks very much..Simon
+Simon Woodward Thanks for the comment. You shouldn't be getting jerky shots unless you're filming while making abrupt movements. That's piloting... not the quad. :) Slow, steady and easy is the best way to film. I never film while flying full speed or making fast abrupt movements. Perhaps post a video of the issue? Could be equipment related but hard to diagnose without having something to look at.
Check out this video on adjusting the Expos. This might help....
th-cam.com/video/flxXdzcLO2w/w-d-xo.html
Very usefull video. Thanks
+Thomas Bruyninckx Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the great tutorial!
Do you think the same settings would be appropriate for Phantom 3 Standard too?
+Mayank Chhabra Thanks for the comment. Yes these settings apply to all Phantom 3 models.
Awesome! I just uploaded my Phantom 3's first footage using your recommended settings on my channel. Would love to know your thoughts on the color grading :)
Sure. Post the link here and I'll check it out.
+Mayank Chhabra Looks good! You didn't crush your blacks and plenty of dynamic range left in the footage. That's the benefit of shooting "flat" then color grading in post. There seems to be a subtle magenta cast to the white balance but then again that does give it a cool mood that keeps it from looking like "video" footage. Nice job my friend.
+Frederick Hagan Thanks for the appreciation and your valuable inputs, glad you liked it. You're right about the cool mood caused due the subtle magenta cast. I wanted it to look like a film's footage rather than a regular drone's footage hah:)
thanks for the quick reply it is very clear to me now how to use the filter properly I've been trying to purchase a 16/8 nd filter the one I found on amazon dose not ship to the uk srp ship to the uk but the shipping cost makes it uneconomical can you suggest anywhere I can purchase this filter without the heavey shiping costs.
No unfortunately SRP are the only people I trust in building a quality graduated 16 to 8 filter. I'm sorry I wish I knew a better alternative for you.
Very nice. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment.
Hi , i love your vids . I have a phantom4 non pro . What settings do you recomend if i do not use post production. d-ciné or d-log , sharpness -2 , contrast -3 , saturation -2 , or all to zéro . Regards . Marc
Marc De Smedt thanks for the comment, Marc. I would use the Cinelike profile but all sub settings set to zero if you want to use the footage street from the camera with no post processing. Cinelike has a beautiful quality.
very helpful video. Do you define aliasing differently from moire? I thought moire is aliasing. Or basically aliasing (moire) is when the sensor can't keep up with what is being sampled. Just curious, that's all.
+Flying Thanks for the comment. Yes in theory they have similar properties due to a less powerful sensor.
That said, Moire has more to do with an unwanted large area that appears to move like an animated pattern. Aliasing is more about the pixelated or stair stepped distortion on single lines or hard edges vs clean continuous lines.
Hi
Thank you for this tutoliar.. I have the same problem on the moire when i am shooting with a 4k.
I am asking myself now, if i have to buy ND filters to get it way.Becouse even on -2 sharp i am still seeing that.. Have you any idea ?
+Julien Bmjizzo Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately no filter will get ride of moire. If -2 on sharpening doesn't work as well as you want try going to -3 see if that helps.
Frederick would you advise a lower ISO and if slightly dark (underexposed) to correct in post?
+Laurence Seberini Yes I think that would be the best of two evils. Once the noise is in the footage there's not a lot you can do about it. So I'd prefer a darker exposed but cleaner looking shot.
+Frederick Hagan thanks again
Hi Fredrick I used my P3 PRO today via the go app the settings have changed can you do another tutorial with best settings. The APP offer D-LOG and shutter controls etc I was use to the old settings and was achieving some nice footage for grading.
+Naseem Ahmed Yes it's confusing when they change the menu. However you can still use the same settings. It's just the button locations that changed. All the settings are still available.
Under the new custom settings menu:
Triangle = Sharpness
Divided Circle = Contrast
Box with a Slanted Line = Saturation
Do we have any updated info on how to reduce Alias & Moire on Phantom 3? I tried to do my first shot todays in an industrial area and it was a total disaster. I used the same exact settings of the video tut which i am really grateful for.
Sorry to hear about the results of your shoot. Yes this is the biggest issue that reveals the limitations of the camera itself. The best thing to do is reduce the in-camera sharpness. I shoot on -2. I never use anything higher than that because of the terrible Alias & Moire the camera produces. Hope this helps.
I guess I ll have to learn where not to waste my time because the shot is going to be useless due to excessive amounts of Moire and alias. Thanks for the tip Frederick.
You bet. For broadcast productions, I've found the having the footage be a tad soft in sharpness is MUCH better than seeing Alias & Moire. The camera shoots WAY too sharp anyway. A softer sharpness tends to have a more cinematic look vs. a crispy sharp "video" look. Best of luck to you my friend.
Fred,
Can you speak to "rendering"?
When you find it necessary such as with 4K clip and all of a sudden you get the red line above the clip your working on.
Thanks.
The red line indicates an area that needs to be rendered before you can watch it in live playback. Many effects don't require the area to be rendered after the effect is applied. But some effects that are much more CPU demanding and will require rendering the work area before playback. If you make an adjustment to a clip that needs to be rendered the red line is Premiere's way of telling you this. Just hit the "enter" key and it'll render the sequence. When it's finished you can play back the effected clips in realtime with the effect applied.
Amazing vídeo! What LUTs do you use?
No LUTs. All grading done in Premiere Pro.
Frederick Hagan Thanks Frederick. :)
Hi Frederick! Great tutorial but I have a doubt: if a use 1080p, 25fps, shutter 50 and nd16 and try to make horizontal panning i get too much motion blur. So i think the only solution for smooth horizontal panning is 50fps with shutter100....Or if a use 25fps i have to use higher shutter such as 160. Am I wrong? The horizontal paning makes me crazy...thanks
It can be very subjective. If you're using the golden rule and your pans look too blurry. It could be because you're panning too fast? Remember slow and steady movements always look best even when panning. That said when shooting 24 frames per second a shutter speed of 100 is still perfectly acceptable. Let me know if that works for you. Thanks for the comment
Can I ask you one more question? At the moment I am only using iMovie for post. Obviously it doesn't give me near the flexibility of Premier Pro or Final Cut X. Would you still suggest these camera settings...filming in Log...brightness and contrast settings...etc. and then editing in iMovie to get the best looking scene? I guess I'm asking if you think iMovie has enough guts to produce a good looking scene this way.
+Jeremy Lewis As long as iMovie gives you some kind of basic color correction tools. (Sorry I'm not sure if iMovie has these tools) But if you can adjust contrast, brightness and color hue all the settings from the video apply. The reason you want you footage flat to start with is so you can push it in post. It's referred to as maintaining a higher level of "Dynamic Range". No blown out whites or crushed blacks. The settings Iv'e presented in the video are for folks who intend to get the absolute most out of their imagery by doing a little (or a lot of) post production work. These final results using this method are FAR better than if you just shot with say the "vibrant" mode on the camera and used the footage as is.
man ...love this video!! thanks for the help....changing settings now.
quick question. I keep getting Update required occasionally on my DJI GO app. When I check status on APP it says I have the current update loaded. Any idea whats going on. It goes away after a minute or two. thanks again.
***** You're welcome and thanks for the comment. I'd try deleting the DJI GO app and then reinstalling it. Good luck!
Frederick Hagan Great idea! would I have to do the whole SD card thing again?
***** You'll have to start ruling things out so I'd try deleting the app first. See if that fixes it.
Frederick Hagan Wil do! the warning goes away after a min or so and my Phantom 3 flies good. Im excited about the new camera settings you said...changed them like you said! Im heading to the backcountry in Montana for a month 10 miles in the mts with my Phantom thanks again!
***** Cool! Clear skies!
Hi Frederick, Do you use the ISO and Shutter on manual mode or auto mode?. Thanks.
Leandro Felippe I always shoot in full manual mode.
Thank you for your reply!
aaaaaaa settings menu looks totally different since your last update again. Could you please update this video with the latest firmware and your latest tweaks. thanks, great work.
+Jorge Jorge Thanks for the comment. "The settings" are all the same. Locations in the interface have changed slightly but all the settings info in the vid is still current. Poke around a bit... you'll find it. :)
probably it depends on which app version i have and which you have, my menù doesn't appear that way and i have the last version...the fact is that i select the custom option that appear blue but it doesn't oper a new window where i cad select a special light temperature :-(
Do you use the same settings for P4 camera?. Thanks for the videos!
Leandro Felippe Thanks for the comment and yes the exact same settings work perfectly with the P4.
Thank you for your support!.
have you ever used the z3 camera on a an inspire 1? I can't figure out what to set the contrast, sharpness, and saturation to. do you have any ideas?
Sorry, I've not used it enough to be of help.
Thanks
Frederick, I have a question about shooting "Flat" I realise files would be a lot bigger but would using raw be the best option for post enhancement ?
+Micheal J Shooting "RAW" only pertains to photographs. That said RAW is the only way to go when shooting photos with the P3. The JPG setting is absolutely terrible. Shooting very "flat" for photos or video gives you much, much more leeway for post production color correction and grading.
Thank you for taking the time to reply I appreciate your help. I have been shooting video for a couple of years using a Ghost POV then bought a Canon 6d. From an editing point of view I started in iMovie then upgraded to FCP X. I bought Larry Jordan's FCP training course to get to grips with FCP. I have only just started to learn about colour correction and grading when I look at some of my videos I now see all the basic mistakes. I am enjoying the challenge but so much to learn. Thank you so much for taking your time hopefully one day I can create something approaching your work.
+Micheal J Thanks for the kind words, Micheal. Let me know if I can be of assistance. If I don't know the answer...I'll do my best to point you in the right direction! Don't forget to subscribe to my channel so you can be alerted to new tutorials I post.
Have a great day.
F
Another question... Do you see the compression every 8th frame? It's really at 4K 30fps... Especially with slow moving objects like landscapes and trees hovering by them.
Yes it is what it is. And it's not a RED epic. ;)
hi Frederick just a question. So how does one balance trying to get a shutter speed of 50 - 100 and at the same time a low ISO. Which is more important? For example I was only able to get 50 shutter at 400 ISO. Should I rather lower shutter speed to get to 100 ISO or stay at 50 and 400 ISO?
+Laurence Seberini With the Phantom's camera, a low ISO is the priority as long as the shutter speed stays in the 50-100 sweet spot. Unfortunately the camera is not a low light performer so even at ISO 400 noise starts to become apparent. That said if you're forced to use ISO 400 you'll get good results. I've tried using as high as 800 and in my opinion the noise is too great at that ISO for professional results. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment.
+Frederick Hagan yes thanks it does
my P3A video quality is horrible!
all noisy screen and wave flickers all over the video
but in photo mode the pictures are perfect
ive tried shutter speed, iso and, frames 24 48 60 HD 2.7 none helped!
what should be the problem
any tips ?
I have just got myself a p3 standard and it can shoot a max of 2.4k, would you recommend -2 -3 -2 still? I really want the best image possible 😀
Sam Yes those settings will work great for the phantom three standard. Best of luck to you and clear skies!
will those settings work with the phantom 3 standard 2.7k. if not what would you recommend ?
Absolutely. These settings should work perfect for the standard, advanced and pro.
I noticed when setting the shutter speed/iso those settings seem to fluctuate, is that the way it is? Or can you keep the iso/shutter constant?
Yes it does fluctuate as the lighting of the scene fluctuates. You can stop this two ways. 1.Shoot in manual mode. 2. When the exposure is where you want it tap the "AE" lock on the top right IN THE DJI Go app. It'll turn blue. (Auto Exposure Lock) Then start filming.
so from what you are saying if you used a custom white balance at your settings when I go to video footage I don't have to tap on the screen to get it b righter and then hit the AE button I think is Auto exposure right. because I noticed when I was videoing I didn't noticed that the AC locked function pushed and so it created some dark footage on my video screen is that what custom white balance does it keeps the same exposure at all times when videoing? and can I use your custom white balance with jpeg or just raw. what is the difference I heard that JPG is more compressed which makes the file smaller correct. anyway thanks for any more information and suggestions for me I love my 2.7 K footage
+richard Palmisano White Balance only concerns itself with the color temperature of the shot. (e.g. whether the shot looks a little cool to the blue side or warm to the yellow side) WB has nothing to do with the exposure of the shot. Once you manually set your white balance it's locked in and you can then adjust your exposure. When you get the exposure (via shutter speed and ISO settings) like you want it in the shot you can tap the AE lock. This will keep the exposure from changing in mid shot going brighter or darker as you film.
Yes JPG is much more compressed and a smaller file. BUT there's a huge trade off from this. The quality of the image is absolutely terrible compared to shooting RAW. A RAW image will have 20 times the amount of detail, resolution and information. To be honest... because of this I never shoot in JPG mode.
Wow didn't know this! So the file is larger but better video quality when filming. I can't imagine that becuase my footage looks great at 2.7k at 30 fps. So if I change to raw its going to look better? Thanks I'm going to try that. I really appreciate you answering my questions and taking the time out I am using PowerDirector 14 on my laptop and it lets me upload 2.7k at 30 fps to youtube. Can I upload to TH-cam 1440 from my android tablet. I always download the SD card to my computer and then edit you get the full resolution that way right
+richard Palmisano Shooting RAW only has to do with photos....not video.
OK sorry got a little anxious so if I'm going to take a photo its work too go and change the JPG to draw just for that photo
Hi, good video and I have a cuestion about the moire in the top of the roof and how i can fix this wen the video is done?
+chupeta POWER Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately the only way to fix moire after it's in the footage is to soften the footage. Like use a small amount of gaussian blur. The also makes the rest of your image soft and unsharp.... but that's about all you can do. Try shooting with your sharpness set to -2 in camera in the future. That will help a lot.
+Frederick Hagan thank u so much for your fast answer! I have setting my camara the same as you did right after I see your video 👍🏽 and other cuestion is what's the more common changes u have to do wen u came to the video editing process ?
+chupeta POWER Unfortunately that's too big a question to answer in a comment. Check out my channel for color correction and grading.
My search was for the "phantom 3 professional time lapse" and this video popped up, did I miss something? Did you cover the time lapse setting somewhere in this tutorial??
+David Williams No. It's because your search contained "phantom 3 professional".
can I use those settings for the Phantom three standard without the lens is the Phantom three standard you can't add any filter lens so will the settings work without the filter lens Thanks
Yes you can.
What is the transition at 5:54? Is that where you upped the saturation and contrast in post?
+gavsmith1980 Yes absolutely. That's illustrating how much you have to play with in post when you shoot flat. A quick before and after color grading.
Just watching your other vids, fascinating stuff, very useful :)
+gavsmith1980 Thanks for the comment. Let me know if I can be of help.
hi thanks a lot lot for that video. When we bring sharpness to -2 Contras -3 and saturation -2 does it get rid of the moire please. I have the exact same problem with mine.
+Ranini Cundasawmy (Female Fighter Mauritius) Thanks for the comment. Yes it should help quite a bit. Give it a shot and run some tests. Let me know your findings!
Thank you i will let you know the result :-)
more from Cliff. I have a ph3 4k. have you done vids that cover it? thx c.
My videos have utilized the Phantom 2 with GoPro, Phantom 3 Pro and Phantom 4 Pro. Regardless the information is mostly applicable across any aerial shooting platform or drone.
Watched a couple of your vids on photoshop editing. fab quality on your part. Somewhat over my head, but I got a lot of it, and your presentation really works for me. Many thanks for your time and effort for all of us. Cliff
I do have a somewhat unrelated question which has perplexed me for sometime. Assuming any changes in movement are slow and graceful to minimize image blur from occurring due to a slow frame rate such as 4k at 30 FPS, why is it that YAW movement creates the most image corruption? Moving forward and back or rolling side to side, the recorded image must refresh and still appears sharp; however, when yawing, even when very slow, the image blurs or becomes non distinct similar to moving faster than the frame rate can capture although it is a slow movemet. Is this the camera having to reproduce a new full field of vision (i.e., a grass field moving forward is still overlaying the same i.age with new information feeding I ) whereas a YAW movement needs to paint an entirely new image with almost every frame?
+dwcola This is a great question and thanks for asking it. In a nut shell....yes... you sir on the right track. Out of any movement you make while filming, yawing is THE MOST taxing on the H.264 codec of the camera. Add a ton of detail to the scene like grass or leaves and you're sure to increase chances of artifacting or macro blocking in the footage. The camera only records right at 60Mb/s (Megabits per second). While that bitrate can produce decent footage it's simply not powerful enough for fast, full frame, left to right, high detail changing scenes. Therefore you get artifacting as the camera can't take in all that info, that fast, all at once.\
NOTE: Broadcast quality cameras shoot closer to 100Mb/s. That bitrate could better handle the kind of motion and detail mentioned above. As I've mentioned in my tutorials before - the P3 has a good camera. Not great... but good. Hope this helps.
Thanks Frederick for explaining. It puts to rest a long held suspicion I've had of this occurring.
Will subscribe
will you be getting your hands on a x5 camera? i really hope so.
+RC Pilot No immediate plans but who knows what the future brings. Regardless it's a micro 4/3 sensor just like the Lumix GH4 that I own. So the color correction, grading and filming principals I talk about are the same.
Do you think the video settings would apply also to phantom 3 standard ?
Gabriel Viisoreanu absolutely.
Thank you for your answer ! i'll give it a try.