Hydrochloric Acid VS Muriatic Acid
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2024
- This compares 2 molar Technical Grade Hydrochloric to Hardware Store General Purpose Muriatic Acid, which is also Hydrochloric Acid.
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2 Molar Hydrochloric Acid Amazon Affiliate Link:
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Thanks for video.learning chemistry is frustrating to me.its so diverse and often u dont know exactly whats in stuff.ive even seen msds say," contains other things that are secret trademarks"
Thanks for the awesome comment. I am glad I help some people. Honestly it confused me what the differences were. I thought surely "technical grade" meant it was very pure and much more concentrated than plain old hardware store Muriatic Acid. Anyway, thanks again!
@@IIIKNOW3technical grade is usually lowest purity as in potentially having other contaminates and it’s strength is usually low (usually 18%) but can vary depending on the concentration it is sold in as you have noted in you video. Reagent grade is generally considered greater than 95% pure and Analytical grade is the most pure something can be.
It is quite annoying because I’m like you, I hear “technical grade” and that to me sounds like it should be pure, strong and used in technical situations but it’s more like, this water has some HCl gas dissolved in it so it’s “technically” HCl acid but no where near as concentrated as the max percentage stable HCl acid which is 37% due to it being azeotropic as it will pull water from the air when in concentrations above 37% until it settles right around 37%.
That is exactly why I made this video, because if you don't know it can be confusing. "Technical grade = Technically HCl" LOL!!
Muriatic acid and hydrochloric acid are the same thing. The reason for the different name is marketing. Back in the day, and perhaps even now, contractors & handy-men cleaning their garage floor, concrete, pools, etc would use muriatic acid. Hardware stores found they sold RIDICULOUSLY more "muriatic acid" than they did hydrochloric acid because hydrochloric acid was scary and a potent acid. But muriatic acid? "That's what my dad and grandad used to clean their garage floors! It's not scary!" Hence the name stuck. I think at one point, it may even have been a brand name. I just bought a gallon from home depot that has Hydrochloric acid on the right side of the jug and Muriatic acid on the left.
You know this. I learned this long ago. The point was for people who did not know yet. Thanks for the comment.
A good explanation of the different grades of Hydrochloric acid. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment!
There's no difference between hydrochloric acid and muriatic acid.Muriatic acid is simply a misnomer born in times when it was thought an element called murium was present in hydrochloric acid.Concentrations,impurities are irrelevant in the big picture. Grade of purity makes no difference whatsoever regarding the active substance ,which is the same- HCl gas in water
I am glad you commented almost verbatim what I said in the video; it adds credibility to what I did for people who don't know.
Impurities don't make any difference if you are cleaning concrete or dropping the ph in a pool. However, some companies add impurities to Muriatic acid to speed up reactions. Iron is a common additive that could complicate things if you are using it for metal refining or a science project. Also, some impurities will mess up electroplating if you intend to use a chloride-based electrolyte. There are some chemical reactions when it is a good idea to purchase ACS reagent grade when it really does matter. The reason I bought Transchem is that it is consistently cleaner than other brands I have purchased before for use on metals.
The concentration is most definitely important to know in some applications. If you watched the video, you would have known that the 2 molar is about 7% and the Muriatic is between 25-35% according to its MSDS, or 31.45% according to the label. The speed it dissolved aluminum was displayed and obviously much faster with the higher concentration.
I was not aware of the mythological murium, so thank you for that information.
Anyway, thanks for watching at least some of the video and your comment is appreciated!!
Some industrial process start from pure chlorine
By hydrol. of Sodium Chloride( should see a mountain of packed Sodium-Hg amalgam)
I did not know they used mercury in the manufacturing process. I do know that if you do electrolysis on plain salt (NaCl) it produce sodium hydroxide and chlorine gas. If you run the gas in a bubbler through distilled water you will make Hypochlorous Acid that can be reduced to Hydrochloric with UV light. Thanks for watching and the comment!!
👉 Yes, except that murium is a real element that only exists in the US. It's name was derived from the common pronunciation of America as 'murica, hence "murium". 😉
@@HighlanderNorth1 Pretty sure it is Latin for pickle also...
3:27 the most interesting part , amazing
For a hot second there, when you had the pop tabs bubbling, i could swear i could smell it.
Good info, thanks :D Should update you link for Amazon
Can you show how to make 4% HCl from Store bought Muriatic Acid? I am trying to create Chlorine Dioxide from 80% Sodium Chlorite flakes and and 4% HCl.
Does muriatic acid etch on Marble? I want to try that for engrave gravestone.
If it is real marble, it should be able to etch it. I would do samples on small pieces to test first. Be prepared for different reactions on different grades of marble. If it is actually granite, there may be not much if any reaction. I am sure with testing and practice you can do cool gravestones.
isopropyl alcohol 99.9 is this product same as ssd solution is it with same purposes that can be usdd to clesn etc
This was a great video. Thanks 🙏🏽
You are welcome!
In my process of learning basic chemistry, what is reagent/aqua reagent?
Usually 25% Nitric Acid and 75% Hydrochloric. You can start with the Hydrochloric Acid first then add the nitric a little at a time. The Nitric acts as an oxidizer to help resistant metals (like gold and platinum) dissolve into the hydrochloric.
Sorry I thought the question was about Aqua Regia.
Reagent grade is usually the purest grade of a chemical you can purchase. It is based on ACS (American Chemical Society) guidelines. "aqua" simply means a water based solution, or more loosely liquid. Remember Purity and Concentration are not the same thing. You can have a very pure 4% concentration with the other 96% being water for example.
Questions answered 😊 TY
Aquaregia as an starting home chem. Yeahhhh
OK, so Donald is trying to learn things. You don't have to be a chemist to use Aqua Regia. Knowing what Aqua Regia is made of is not the same as using it. I am not recommending it to him either because he is not trying to refine gold. He wants to learn about reactions and study electroplating primarily. I am not recommending he use potassium cyanide to stabilize his electrolyte to plate out alloys either, although it is a common practice. Learning should be encouraged in a safe manner and not chided for trying. I am learning new things every day. I am making videos so hopefully people can learn from what I do and avoid the mistakes I have made.
nice video easy and simple to understand. thanks
You are welcome!
Interesting but unless I need to dissolve a pull tab I don't get the point. A better experiment would be to compare the two actually doing something productive like cleaning concrete.
@@davebryant8050 The faster it dissolves a can tab, the easier it will clean concrete. Based on this video, the Muriatic will work better than the other. Yes, go ahead and buy different grades of acid and compare, have fun. Make a video.
Excellent video. I do have a question though. I'm brand new and experimenting with a fre difference types if acid for acid etching Damascus Steel Rings (15n30/1080). I'm trying to get a deep dark etch on the 1080 but I can't seem to get a consistent etch. I have a few questions, it's it better for etching if I dilute it or go with the pure acids? I'm testing Muriatic, Ferric chloride, a brand called "Gator Piss and I also made my own using Muriatic acid and dissolving steel wool and adding Hydrogen Peroxide. The Home made acid seems to etch fastest but still nothing consistent. Any help is much appreciated!! I'm looking for a deep, dark and consistent etch on the 1080 steel whole the 15n20 stays raised and shiny. Thanks for any help.
I wish I could give you a confident answer I haven't had the time to do as much as I would like with Damascus. I would love to practice knife making and be able to make beautiful and functional pieces. I will tell you what I think. You should get consistency if you use the exact mixture each time and monitor time and temperature as well. Slightly heating your acid mix (even to like 180 F) may provide darker 1080 faster, but don't heat indoors unless you have a fume hood because of chlorine gas. The more concentrated should probably work better because dilute hydrochloric may also darken the 15n/30 because of a nickel reaction. Just keep practicing and note your product, time and temperature and you will find your sweet spot. I am wondering what a dilute nitric acid would produce; maybe you could give that a shot as well to compare. Etching is a skill that is not easy to master, but you will get there. Thanks for the comment!
Just subscribed, the link for muriatic acid is non functional just a heads up, Question I had a failure melting and pouring placer gold, I tried to pour the melted placer gold into a metal square rod mold so i could roll it and draw it through a draw plate, the issue came when the molten gold stuck to the steel mold and during the pour overflowed the recessed cavity and became a blob ontop the mold, I turned the mold upside down and reheated it to release the gold from the mold But i got to hot and melted part of the mold into the gold trying this. Question is can i now remelt the gold/iron pour it into water take it out of water and put it inTranschem Muriatic Acid and distilled water 2 parts water to one part acid to dissolve the iron/steel and leave just the placer gold? tks
The muriatic acid will dissolve the iron and leave the gold. It will take a long time though. Heating the acid while it dissolves will speed things up, but be careful of fumes. You may try to mechanically remove as much of the mold as possible with an angle grinder, bench grinder, or whatever you have first. Sorry the link is dead; I will try to update it soon.
Oh, and next time use a graphite mold. If it sticks you can bust it off. Thanks again!!
@@IIIKNOW3 Oh 4 sure on that note graphite 4 sure, I used this steel one for silver rod and it worked perfect but with gold a different story, tomorrow I am going to melt gold and just get it liquid in the dish and then shortly after that pull out the disc/slug with pliers as I do not have a graphite mold yet
That was illuminating
Thank you very much!
why is the left solution greyish blue?
I believe the aluminum was torn apart by the acid and the small particles remaining gave it the greyish appearance. After the video and sitting for about another 30 minutes or so the solution became a translucent yellow color with no remaining particles.
I just bought a gallon of TransChem Muriatic Acid. I'm kind of mad, because it is deep-yellow color. Obviously contaminated with iron. Have to distill it before I can use in PM refining.
Really it works just fine for gold refining. I just made a video using it and it really worked out well. Thanks for the comment. You could purchase cleaner hydrochloric but it is so much more expensive and there are such small margins in small scale refining.
@IIIKNOW3 I used Jasco previously. That was surprising pure. The Transchem I got is really yellow. Going to distill to get pure so I can refine gold using Cl2 and SO2 gases, to get .99999 fine. This is the last step in my process to get pure, crystalline gold sponge. Definitely don't want to start that process with contaminated acid.
So, if you are dissolving in Cl2, are you afraid of iron contamination coming over in the gas? To me, it doesn't seem likely. However, I do understand if you don't want to take any risk going for 5 9's, mad respect bro. Have you considered running an electrolysis cell? Anyway, love the conversation, thanks again!!
@IIIKNOW3 I'm only a small, hobby refiner, processing 1-2 ozt at a time. I don't want to tie up any gold in electrolyte, as I usually need to turn around my gold quickly. My existing process (3xs refined) gets my gold to four 9s fine. Hoping by adding the 4th, gas refining, I can get to 5 9s. Maybe... maybe not. Gonna try, but want to do it by eliminating all variables that I can control... like iron contamination in my reactants.
Also, the .9999 gold I'll be refining will be in a 500mL gas cleaner filled with HCl, through which I will bubble the Cl2 gas. Don't want any Fe contamination in my AuHCl4, so I'll need to purify. Granted, I would get .99999 fine with just 2-3 refines if I use electrolysis, but I don't have the capital for that.
Do a titration with a base. Yeah i assume 31% hcl for industrial hcl.
Dilute with tap water or water and measure with a ph meter. Assuming it dissociate into 100% H+ ions and use minus log H+ and multiply the dilution factor to assume the concentration. Nice video.
Good comment. I know the Transchem is okay for the metals I will be working with.
Thanks this is good to know
Thanks for the comment. I am glad you gained knowledge. I appreciate the view!
@@IIIKNOW3 I'm doing KCN prep atm 😁
@@SodiumInteresting Be careful. I could use some myself as a stabilizer for alloy electroplating LOL.
@@IIIKNOW3 if you watch the poor mans chemist, he makes it by heating potassium ferrocyanide and sodium in a small ceramic crucible. I'm just about to upload a video on alkaline h2o2 reduction of ferricyanide to ferrocyanide. I'll need to make it anhydrous before I add the sodium!
Did you make the KCN yet?
Can muriatic acid that has a yellow color be used to smelt gold?
It can be used to dissolve gold with an oxidizing agent like nitric acid or hydrogen peroxide. Smelting refers to a process using fire and high temperature as opposed to acids. I just posted a video of a single refining of 10k gold scrap. I used the Transchem featured in this video for the Hydrochloric.
Only cost me $14 for the gallon though.
Trick question, they're the same thing
Did you bother to watch? Even in the description I said I would be comparing 2 molar technical grade to hardware store general purpose muriatic acid, which is also hydrochloric acid. I am trying to provide information for people who don't know. They may think 2 molar is a higher concentration than 31.45%. There are obvious differences between the 2 although the active ingredient HCl gas, is the same.
Salve questo cosa significa van acido muriatico
Italiano? Non capisco completamente.
Me reading the thumbnail:
*Visible confusion*
The purpose of the video was to help people who don't know. It can be confusing if you want to buy Hydrochloric and don't know what the names mean. Thanks for the comment!
Allora tu ai messo due pezzi di metallo di alluminio giusto e ai messo acido muriatico che significa ai capito italiano
Grazie
gold metal thank you
Just released gold video. Thank you!!
12 molar is 35% HCl
Cool thanks!!
I clicked em,good day.
Thank you!!
They are the same thing
You already know. This video is for people who don't. If you had to dissolve 2 kilograms of zinc, what grade, molarity, concentration would you use and how much?
Bunch of BS, comparing weak acid to concentrated. So what? Most people watching TH-cam videos aren’t doing organic synthesis where they may want a specific molar acid. The large majority are refining metals. In which case the concentrated acid goes farther, can be diluted if you wanted it weaker, and it’s cheaper.
Hey, some people might not know. So be proud you are smart and already knew this. Yes, the point was that there are different strengths and purities for different purposes. Anyway, thanks for the watch and the BS comment!
8:22 "food-grade" muriatic acid does not sound very healthy and what do you suppose it would be served with besides a shitload of Tums LOL JK
Thanks!!