I been using your vids (along with factory service manual) doing my chain tensioners on my tc 88. Your video said don’t bother taking everything apart up top, so I listened and got s&s adjustable rods. You take your time explaining everything and make great content. Subscribed
I didn't find that anybody else explained the bands on the pushrods, thank you. I've got Screaming Eagle adjustable pushrods and had to take the tappet covers off to install the intake rod. The Exhaust went on with the tappet cover installed. You worked on my bike at Bumpus in Memphis. Great Job!
Excellent. Thank you. I was glad that you addressed the lack of "gap" in the push rod (tappet) It is the opposite of what you do on a lot of other engines so it cleared that up. Just found your channel and have subbed.
Thanks again, this along with the cam tensioner video. Got my bike where it’s needs to be. If I ever see you in the wild I owe you a 🍻 Keep up the good work!
Haha, Busch Lite... when I used to do that I'd get 3 30 packs, about 40 lbs of ice, and a good time was had, by many. These days, I have stepped up in quality to PBR, 30 packs for $22.50 but I get $1.50 back in recycle money. It takes about three 30 packs recycle money to get a gallon of government priced gasoline. A gallon is good for about three round trips to the beer store... amazing how that math can work in such critical matters.
For the bottom oring, I put it over the lip of the cover and once I'm done adjusting, I drop it down. This keeps it out of my way and it won't fall in lifter block. 😀
@@DeathProofProductions I'd love to take credit but I found that little trick on TH-cam a few yrs ago. That's the great thing about sharing these types of videos. We all learn from each other in the community.
Great video! Just got finished getting the woods cam and cam plate upgrade in my tc88 dyna.. Next project will be the adjustable pushrods, looks fairly simple but like you said just pay attention to what you're doing.. Wish me luck! Lol
@DeathProofProductions I have a question that no one seems to know the answer to that I have asked.. These adjustable pushrods I bought said they were performance push rods but in the instructions they said not intended for cam lifts over 550 and the cams I put in have a 555 lift.. Will these pushrods work or do I just get something else so I'm not doing the job twice?
I've never run into that before but if they made them narrower to shave weight for the valve train maybe . 550 compared to 555 isn't enough to start a fist fight, plus they engineer a 40% safety rating into most stuff. That being said what brand are they and were did they make them.
@DeathProofProductions That is what I was thinking, adjustable means you make them the length you need for that specification?? They are from Voodoo customs along with the roller tappets, they are very similar to S&S and other adjustable pushrods so maybe they have to say that as a disclaimer if someone has a nasty souped up motor? I have been waiting on a response from the seller but might just run with it because I need to have this motorcycle back together this week.. I appreciate you taking the time to reply, I enjoy your videos they are really helpful. Have a blessed 2024!!
Thank you for the videos and straight forward & easy to follow instructions. It’s convince me to do the cam, tensioner’s and install A set of adjustable pushrods in mine. I’ve ran across a set of good used SE adjustable’s. Reuse or get new? Thanks
Great vids keep them coming and love all the tips and trick on the push rods o guess just sit and wait 10 minutes o So till you can turn them and the finish the covers before trying in turning the engine!
I installed Cyco Gasket adjustable pushrod kit bought directly from CG. Do you recommend checking the lock nuts on the adjustable PR's after a certain time after installation? Is it rare for them to loosen up? Thanks a million for your clear, to the point instructions. Your videos and generosity are much appreciated.
Question? Did you have the tappets loaded in this video or were they bleed down. Can I adjust this bleed down and just take the lash out like you do in this video?
Wben tou start the revolutions at the end, how many would a 2005 Electra glide take to do, or where would i look to find how many revolutions ? Thanks and really appreciate your videos!
Question. Do you have to let each lifter bleed down individually when you're doing the valve lash adjustment like you do on a 52 and up Panhead or a Shovelhead? I know they're much different than the old style lifters. Thanks.
Thanks for your previous reply. I went with the s&s adjustable, standard not quickee. I know I have to remove tappet blocks. Is it still easy to do? Do I have to worry about the lifters falling in?
I did exactly what you warn about Lost the O ring in there...I can't see it anywhere. Could it have gone into the cam chest? I really don't want to pull it all back out.
One more question, I have stock pushrods in my twin cam right now, only one needs servicing. Can I replace just a single pushrod with the adjustable? (So 3 stock and 1 adjustable) ?
Hey Buddy, great video. I am going to be swapping out my cams on my 2013 Electra Glide with the 103. How many turns for my adjustable pushrods after they are at zero lash? Is it 3.5 same as yours? Do I make this adjustment on each when the lifter is all the way down? I'm also installing the S&S 583 into mine. I currently have the woods 777, bike came that way, just doesn't fit my riding style. Hope you reply -Ray
Mine are s&s so the thread pitch might be different than yours but most brands I've fiddled with are around 3.5 to 4. Yes the lifter has to be down, you don't have to be t.d.c just bump it over when you go to the next rod.
@DeathProofProductions do you recommend using blue or red thread locker on the jam/locking nuts? Also, when push rods (front or rear?) should I start with? Is there a particular order you recommend?
You can do them in any order. Your not supposed to have to use locktite on the jam nuts, that being said I have seen some that have loosened up before. If your gonna use it use blue.
@@DeathProofProductions ok, i found out my adjustable pushrods are Screamin' Eagle Premium Tapered Quick Install Adjustable Pushrods #18404-08. Do you know how many turns from zero lash?
Ok forgive me being stupid As long as the cylinder you working on is Tdc no matter what stroke it’s on these can be done? I’m still trying to wrap my head around figuring out what stroke these motors are on with all the top end disassembled I am trying to safely reinstall my stock pushrod I’m confused a bit
If it's at t.d.c. all the lifters will be down flush with the silver anti rotation pin under the lifter cover. Truth is they don't have to be dead money flush just take your time tightening the rocker bolts and you're good.
Thanks for posting the vid. I'm installing an s&S camchest kit in a 2005 Dyna Wide Glide with TC88. I can't find anywhere if I am supposed to install the tappet block and cam cover gaskets dry or with gasket sealant. What do you recommend? I am also concerned about the push rod jam nuts possibly working loose. You mentioned Red Loctite. Would Blue also be OK in case I need to loosen them for re-adjustment down the road? Thanks.
Install the gaskets dry. I only had the one customers back loose.it did it twice so I used red loctight on it, other than that I never put anything on them. That being said blue wouldn't hurt if you wanted to use it.
@@DeathProofProductions Thanks for the quick reply! I think I will use the Blue just as a precaution. Thanks again for the recommendations. Much appreciated!
Hey hope you see this or i can find you on social media later. Got a 05 softail 88ci im about to throw s&s quick rods on. How have these worked out for you a year later?
@@DeathProofProductions good to hear that thanks for the info. I've been riding for a year and decided to buy a older harley to learn from. I found some old forums that had a few complaints but it seemed like just a few bad rods out of billions that were made. I doubt my 88ci manages to bend a rod as I plan on keeping it as original as possible.
Quick question. So a little background info, I have a 1999 flhrci and this is my first time really getting into motor work/internal stuff. The bikes been tore apart for a while - replaced cam chain tensioners, put in adjustable push rods, did the easy pull clutch kit, three hole oil change, and a bunch of other little things. I got it back together, fired her up, and there's a pretty loud ticking noise coming from the lifter/pushrod area. I let it run for less than a minute (just long enough to record a video of the noise) and shut it off. Where should I go from here? I didn't prime the lifters before I put them back in, could that be the problem? Would it be safe to let it run for a while and see if things quiet down? Or should I pull the lifters out, prime them, and re-adjust the pushrods before doing anything else?
More than likely it's the lifters pretty common thing if it's been tore apart for a while. Just let it run until the lifters pump up. If the sound doesn't go away check the pushrod adjustment.
@@DeathProofProductions Thanks for the response! Since it's my first time doing this sort of stuff it was really freaking me out. Let it run for a while like you said and the tick stopped. It's not dead silent, there's still some faint motor noise - but not anything that sounds out of the ordinary to me for a 25 year old Harley. You and your videos have been a huge help. Thanks again!
Yes , if you adjust them with pressure on them than you have to wait 20 min for them to bleed down. than you check to see if they spin with just finger pressure. If there bleed #own when you adjust the might tap some when you fire it up but it will quiet down.
Thank you for getting back to me! I found that with them bled and taking all the lash out that it took the Screaming Eagle Adjustable Pushrods 4.25 turns . A guy at the parts counter of a local HD shop told me 4 to 4.5 turns and he was right. Thank you for your video. You sound like a Good Ole Boy! Just saying I'm from Mississippi but now live in SW Colorado. Come out for a trip, it'll be a blast taking you for a tour! @@DeathProofProductions
Finally got the bike together after changing the tensioner. Found the o ring. Installed the pushrods. Cleaned the garage. Went out and kicked it over. Rapping tapping. Sounded like one of the front rods. Took the pushrods out bought new lifters. Pumped them up as instructed. Installed. It's is rapping everywhere now. Pulled out the rods again. Pulled out the lifters. I don't know...I feel like I ruined my bike. Heavy sigh. Pushrods don't look damaged. I hope the top end isn't messed up. Feeling defeated right now.
How did you adjust the pushrods. Make sure the lifter is all the way down before adjusting run the push rod out till there is no up and down play . Then start the adjustment per manufacturers instructions Also alot of times it takes a little time for the oil to pump up the lifters. Don't worry the top end is fine.
@@DeathProofProductions you have given me hope. I don't know who made the pushrods but I know there are 24 threads / inch which is about 2.5 turns TO GET .10". The last time in I had the wife help me find TDC and we confirmed the lifters were all the way down. After adjusting the pushrods and as the lifter compressed I noticed they blead down immediately. (Previously I pumped oil into them with the oil can and oil was coming out the top with no bubbles and the lifter seemed firm.) I thinking the lifters are giving me problems and are not pumped up satisfactorily.
Harley lifters need to be plunged more than .010 the thermal expansion is more than that. Mine are the same t.p.i and it's 4 turns on them. Try 3.5 and go up a half from there until she quiets down. Don't worry you will get it. Let me know how it turns out.
@@DeathProofProductions thanks. im going to pull the pipes off open the chest and confirm the timing. Are you certain you have 24 tpi...Just doing the math 1/24 = .041....041 x 2.5 = .1025" & .041 x 4=.164 just saying...that leaves .036 till it bottoms out. I will try 3.5 turns if you think that the ticket.
So I installed a daytona twin tec ignition system with a coil. But I am unable to get a spark from the spark plugs. Do I need to have a particular cylinder TDC? Could it be the crankshaft position center? I am unable to get a spark from the old ignition system and coil also they were working fine.
It's probably the crank sensor even if it's not at that age I would replace it just to prevent being broke down on the side of the rode. Let me know if that works.
I have the s&s standard push rods kit and I can't get them in, tried taking off the lifters cover don't work the throttle body is in the way any suggestions
really there all about the same when i buy them i look for the best deal. you dont have to go with the covers but it makes it much faster to do the job.
on my intake front and rear , intakes only , after 3.5 turns I still get a little back and forth on the tappet everything is tight exhaust is spot on . the pushrods have zero lash and the top is tight get a nice spin just a little side to side movement.. thanks any idea,?
I replaced my twincam pushrods with adjustable now my engine check oil light came on and new true duals and the engine sounds different. Have any suggestions
Just did s&s cams on my 2000 fxdwg, I put in the SE push rods and I noticed after I tighten the front side and rotate the engine to do the back side the front Intake rod has up and down play. What did I do wrong? Is this normal ?
If the lifters bleed down than you can move the plunger pretty easy when you check up and down play. I would start again but remember once you can't feel it tapping stop than you can start counting resolutions.
Ok..got it all back together. Started it up. The oil light came on and it stays on. The rpms surge up and down. I'm afraid to let it run with that light on.
@@DeathProofProductions I did the cam chain tensioners. Replaced the o rings. Replaced the lifters. Soaked them pumped them up. Finally though I had it. I had it running yesterday. Didn't ice the light. Adjusted the rear pushrods 1/2 turn. Started it up...noticed the light didn't go out. I though maybe it was low on oil. Put a half quart in it and the light stayed on. Checked the oil pressure connector it was still connected.
There is a groove that is open to the cam chest on the exhaust side under the lifter cover I would check in there u might be able to fish it out with some wire.
Took the lifter cover off...nothing there..got the shop vac out to try to suck it out...looking..looking...pulled out the leaf blower...orange laying on the floor..was hidden somewhere outside on the bike...I'm gonna clip it up with the pushrod..lesson learned.
The filter is clean that's the color of the material, it's some blackish gray fiber material crap that Harley put out that I bought. It's a cleanable filter but unless you use light to see if it's clean than you don't now for sure. I wish the just did what k.n. did and make it red so it would be easier to tell.
show us how to replace the air cleaner please, i cant watch this video because i cant take my eyes off that filthy air cleaner, seriously that air cleaner looks at least 10 years old
It's a k.n. filter there washable. I had just come back from Tampa on it and new it was time to replace the tensioners. I made a video replacing them and this was me finishing up with the pushrods. When that was finished I washed and recharged the filter.
It came with the push rods back 10 years ago when I bought them, Yours doesn't have instructions. If it doesn't I need to know the thread pitch for me to calculate it up.
I been using your vids (along with factory service manual) doing my chain tensioners on my tc 88. Your video said don’t bother taking everything apart up top, so I listened and got s&s adjustable rods. You take your time explaining everything and make great content. Subscribed
thanks.
I didn't find that anybody else explained the bands on the pushrods, thank you. I've got Screaming Eagle adjustable pushrods and had to take the tappet covers off to install the intake rod. The Exhaust went on with the tappet cover installed. You worked on my bike at Bumpus in Memphis. Great Job!
Sometimes, I have had to remove tappet covers to do the push rods on some brands as well. Was it the same bike that you have now that I worked on.
Excellent. Thank you. I was glad that you addressed the lack of "gap" in the push rod (tappet) It is the opposite of what you do on a lot of other engines so it cleared that up. Just found your channel and have subbed.
Glad it was helpful!
Great instructions, you where the most user friendly of all my research!!! Thank you Very Much
Happy to help also thanks for the compliment.
Underated channel, I appreciate this. Thank you
Thanks again, this along with the cam tensioner video. Got my bike where it’s needs to be.
If I ever see you in the wild I owe you a 🍻
Keep up the good work!
I look forward to it, glad I could help.
Haha, Busch Lite... when I used to do that I'd get 3 30 packs, about 40 lbs of ice, and a good time was had, by many. These days, I have stepped up in quality to PBR, 30 packs for $22.50 but I get $1.50 back in recycle money. It takes about three 30 packs recycle money to get a gallon of government priced gasoline. A gallon is good for about three round trips to the beer store... amazing how that math can work in such critical matters.
For the bottom oring, I put it over the lip of the cover and once I'm done adjusting, I drop it down. This keeps it out of my way and it won't fall in lifter block. 😀
That's a good idea can't believe I never thought about it thanks.
@@DeathProofProductions I'd love to take credit but I found that little trick on TH-cam a few yrs ago. That's the great thing about sharing these types of videos. We all learn from each other in the community.
I wish I read your original trick two days ago. I was almost ready to remove the cam plate looking for that ring.
Great video! Just got finished getting the woods cam and cam plate upgrade in my tc88 dyna.. Next project will be the adjustable pushrods, looks fairly simple but like you said just pay attention to what you're doing.. Wish me luck! Lol
Good luck.
@DeathProofProductions I have a question that no one seems to know the answer to that I have asked.. These adjustable pushrods I bought said they were performance push rods but in the instructions they said not intended for cam lifts over 550 and the cams I put in have a 555 lift.. Will these pushrods work or do I just get something else so I'm not doing the job twice?
I've never run into that before but if they made them narrower to shave weight for the valve train maybe . 550 compared to 555 isn't enough to start a fist fight, plus they engineer a 40% safety rating into most stuff. That being said what brand are they and were did they make them.
@DeathProofProductions That is what I was thinking, adjustable means you make them the length you need for that specification?? They are from Voodoo customs along with the roller tappets, they are very similar to S&S and other adjustable pushrods so maybe they have to say that as a disclaimer if someone has a nasty souped up motor? I have been waiting on a response from the seller but might just run with it because I need to have this motorcycle back together this week.. I appreciate you taking the time to reply, I enjoy your videos they are really helpful. Have a blessed 2024!!
Forgot to tell you one thing. I love your TH-cam handle, I'm a dyna man my self.
Thank you for the videos and straight forward & easy to follow instructions.
It’s convince me to do the cam, tensioner’s and install A set of adjustable pushrods in mine.
I’ve ran across a set of good used SE adjustable’s. Reuse or get new? Thanks
both my twincams have used adjustable pushrods, if there in good shape i would go that route. also thanks for the complement.
Thank you Sir! That was a very clear demonstration !
Great vids keep them coming and love all the tips and trick on the push rods o guess just sit and wait 10 minutes o So till you can turn them and the finish the covers before trying in turning the engine!
It's usually good by the time you finish the first beer.
What's the waiting time for?
Excellent thanks mate, and I'll have a beer or 2 😂😂
I installed Cyco Gasket adjustable pushrod kit bought directly from CG. Do you recommend checking the lock nuts on the adjustable PR's after a certain time after installation? Is it rare for them to loosen up? Thanks a million for your clear, to the point instructions. Your videos and generosity are much appreciated.
Typically it doesn't loosen up. But in the past 30 years , I have seen a couple. So it wouldn't hurt to do it within 1000 miles
Thank you, will do.@@DeathProofProductions
Thank you! This is very helpful 👍🏻
Thanks, great info. I'm going to do this. Thanks for the video.
Glad to be able to help.
keep em coming, there all good.TKS. merry xmas
Question? Did you have the tappets loaded in this video or were they bleed down. Can I adjust this bleed down and just take the lash out like you do in this video?
Wben tou start the revolutions at the end, how many would a 2005 Electra glide take to do, or where would i look to find how many revolutions ?
Thanks and really appreciate your videos!
What brand push rods are they
Great information brother.
Thanks
Thanks great video. I guess you just cut the origianls push rods right off?
Yep.
Thanks that was a big help for a rookie trying to learn
Glade to help.
nice looking lathe...thks for sharing ..
Thanks it's a 1927 south bend.
Question. Do you have to let each lifter bleed down individually when you're doing the valve lash adjustment like you do on a 52 and up Panhead or a Shovelhead? I know they're much different than the old style lifters. Thanks.
It's best to do that but not completely necessary.
Thanks for your previous reply. I went with the s&s adjustable, standard not quickee. I know I have to remove tappet blocks. Is it still easy to do? Do I have to worry about the lifters falling in?
If your just installing pushrods you don't have to worry about the lifters falling in
Great video👍
Thanks
Dang it. I bought s and s adjustable not quickee. Now I found out I have to pull the rocker boxes.
I did exactly what you warn about
Lost the O ring in there...I can't see it anywhere. Could it have gone into the cam chest? I really don't want to pull it all back out.
If you can't fish it out just pull the cam cover you won't have to pull the support plate.
Can you do this with stock pushrod covers?
Yes but its more tedious.
One more question, I have stock pushrods in my twin cam right now, only one needs servicing. Can I replace just a single pushrod with the adjustable? (So 3 stock and 1 adjustable) ?
Yes
Hey Buddy, great video. I am going to be swapping out my cams on my 2013 Electra Glide with the 103. How many turns for my adjustable pushrods after they are at zero lash? Is it 3.5 same as yours? Do I make this adjustment on each when the lifter is all the way down? I'm also installing the S&S 583 into mine. I currently have the woods 777, bike came that way, just doesn't fit my riding style. Hope you reply -Ray
Mine are s&s so the thread pitch might be different than yours but most brands I've fiddled with are around 3.5 to 4. Yes the lifter has to be down, you don't have to be t.d.c just bump it over when you go to the next rod.
@DeathProofProductions do you recommend using blue or red thread locker on the jam/locking nuts? Also, when push rods (front or rear?) should I start with? Is there a particular order you recommend?
You can do them in any order. Your not supposed to have to use locktite on the jam nuts, that being said I have seen some that have loosened up before. If your gonna use it use blue.
@@DeathProofProductions ok, i found out my adjustable pushrods are Screamin' Eagle Premium Tapered Quick Install Adjustable Pushrods #18404-08. Do you know how many turns from zero lash?
There 2 1/2 turns.
Ok forgive me being stupid As long as the cylinder you working on is Tdc no matter what stroke it’s on these can be done? I’m still trying to wrap my head around figuring out what stroke these motors are on with all the top end disassembled I am trying to safely reinstall my stock pushrod I’m confused a bit
If it's at t.d.c. all the lifters will be down flush with the silver anti rotation pin under the lifter cover. Truth is they don't have to be dead money flush just take your time tightening the rocker bolts and you're good.
Good info, thank you
So, 3-1/5 turns after you get to zero lash?
Thanks for posting the vid. I'm installing an s&S camchest kit in a 2005 Dyna Wide Glide with TC88. I can't find anywhere if I am supposed to install the tappet block and cam cover gaskets dry or with gasket sealant. What do you recommend? I am also concerned about the push rod jam nuts possibly working loose. You mentioned Red Loctite. Would Blue also be OK in case I need to loosen them for re-adjustment down the road? Thanks.
Install the gaskets dry. I only had the one customers back loose.it did it twice so I used red loctight on it, other than that I never put anything on them. That being said blue wouldn't hurt if you wanted to use it.
@@DeathProofProductions Thanks for the quick reply! I think I will use the Blue just as a precaution. Thanks again for the recommendations. Much appreciated!
Hey hope you see this or i can find you on social media later. Got a 05 softail 88ci im about to throw s&s quick rods on. How have these worked out for you a year later?
Iv been running them in all my twin cams for 20 years and love them.
@@DeathProofProductions good to hear that thanks for the info. I've been riding for a year and decided to buy a older harley to learn from. I found some old forums that had a few complaints but it seemed like just a few bad rods out of billions that were made. I doubt my 88ci manages to bend a rod as I plan on keeping it as original as possible.
Your good
I have a question can I run a se585s in a 96ci engine without a bunch of other work being done
yes. they have the updated valve springs.
Quick question. So a little background info, I have a 1999 flhrci and this is my first time really getting into motor work/internal stuff. The bikes been tore apart for a while - replaced cam chain tensioners, put in adjustable push rods, did the easy pull clutch kit, three hole oil change, and a bunch of other little things.
I got it back together, fired her up, and there's a pretty loud ticking noise coming from the lifter/pushrod area. I let it run for less than a minute (just long enough to record a video of the noise) and shut it off.
Where should I go from here? I didn't prime the lifters before I put them back in, could that be the problem? Would it be safe to let it run for a while and see if things quiet down? Or should I pull the lifters out, prime them, and re-adjust the pushrods before doing anything else?
More than likely it's the lifters pretty common thing if it's been tore apart for a while. Just let it run until the lifters pump up. If the sound doesn't go away check the pushrod adjustment.
@@DeathProofProductions Thanks for the response! Since it's my first time doing this sort of stuff it was really freaking me out. Let it run for a while like you said and the tick stopped. It's not dead silent, there's still some faint motor noise - but not anything that sounds out of the ordinary to me for a 25 year old Harley. You and your videos have been a huge help. Thanks again!
Glad to help.
Sorry, can I adjust with tappets on the bottom lobe with them bleed down?
Yes , if you adjust them with pressure on them than you have to wait 20 min for them to bleed down. than you check to see if they spin with just finger pressure. If there bleed #own when you adjust the might tap some when you fire it up but it will quiet down.
Thank you for getting back to me! I found that with them bled and taking all the lash out that it took the Screaming Eagle Adjustable Pushrods 4.25 turns . A guy at the parts counter of a local HD shop told me 4 to 4.5 turns and he was right. Thank you for your video. You sound like a Good Ole Boy! Just saying I'm from Mississippi but now live in SW Colorado. Come out for a trip, it'll be a blast taking you for a tour! @@DeathProofProductions
Finally got the bike together after changing the tensioner. Found the o ring. Installed the pushrods. Cleaned the garage. Went out and kicked it over. Rapping tapping. Sounded like one of the front rods. Took the pushrods out bought new lifters. Pumped them up as instructed. Installed. It's is rapping everywhere now. Pulled out the rods again. Pulled out the lifters. I don't know...I feel like I ruined my bike. Heavy sigh. Pushrods don't look damaged. I hope the top end isn't messed up. Feeling defeated right now.
How did you adjust the pushrods. Make sure the lifter is all the way down before adjusting run the push rod out till there is no up and down play . Then start the adjustment per manufacturers instructions Also alot of times it takes a little time for the oil to pump up the lifters. Don't worry the top end is fine.
@@DeathProofProductions you have given me hope. I don't know who made the pushrods but I know there are 24 threads / inch which is about 2.5 turns TO GET .10". The last time in I had the wife help me find TDC and we confirmed the lifters were all the way down. After adjusting the pushrods and as the lifter compressed I noticed they blead down immediately. (Previously I pumped oil into them with the oil can and oil was coming out the top with no bubbles and the lifter seemed firm.) I thinking the lifters are giving me problems and are not pumped up satisfactorily.
Harley lifters need to be plunged more than .010 the thermal expansion is more than that. Mine are the same t.p.i and it's 4 turns on them. Try 3.5 and go up a half from there until she quiets down. Don't worry you will get it. Let me know how it turns out.
Forgot one thing don't go to far or you will bend the pushrod. the plunger travel is about .200 thousands or so don't go further than that.
@@DeathProofProductions thanks. im going to pull the pipes off open the chest and confirm the timing. Are you certain you have 24 tpi...Just doing the math 1/24 = .041....041 x 2.5 = .1025" & .041 x 4=.164 just saying...that leaves .036 till it bottoms out. I will try 3.5 turns if you think that the ticket.
So I installed a daytona twin tec ignition system with a coil. But I am unable to get a spark from the spark plugs. Do I need to have a particular cylinder TDC? Could it be the crankshaft position center? I am unable to get a spark from the old ignition system and coil also they were working fine.
What year is the bike.
@@DeathProofProductions 2003 dny wide glide carburated
It's probably the crank sensor even if it's not at that age I would replace it just to prevent being broke down on the side of the rode. Let me know if that works.
How's it going ? What adjustable pushrod do you recommend ? Yep I know it's a old video, I'm a slow reader..
Peace from FL 🌴✌️
There all about the same so which one's you can get the best deal on is what I would go with.
I have the s&s standard push rods kit and I can't get them in, tried taking off the lifters cover don't work the throttle body is in the way any suggestions
Go to my home page and get my email so you can send me some pics.
Which version of the S&S pushrods do you prefer, and do they work with the original covers or do you need to get the S&S covers?
really there all about the same when i buy them i look for the best deal. you dont have to go with the covers but it makes it much faster to do the job.
❤
If I buy a s&s kit does it come with a manual on how to adjust the push rods I’m doing a install on 103 twin cam breakout Fxsb
Yes it will.
@@DeathProofProductions thank you from Australia 🇦🇺
on my intake front and rear , intakes only , after 3.5 turns I still get a little back and forth on the tappet everything is tight exhaust is spot on . the pushrods have zero lash and the top is tight get a nice spin just a little side to side movement.. thanks any idea,?
The tappet might have blead down. Fire it up and see if it's tapping after it's ran for a minute.
@@DeathProofProductions ok.. thanks.
What adjustable push rods do you recommend?
I have always run s&s on all my performance parts and there who I have recommended to my customers through the years.
Got an S&S 509 cam for a twin cam 88.. do need to change the push rod aswell?
Only if you don't want to take the top end apart
@@DeathProofProductions theres no performance benefit?
No
You sound like a cool mofo. Thank you for this video brother.
Anytime.
I replaced my twincam pushrods with adjustable now my engine check oil light came on and new true duals and the engine sounds different. Have any suggestions
Did you go into the cam chest also what kind of noise do you hear.
how do you make sure the lifter is all the way at the bottom?
Bump the engine a little at a time and it will get down there.
Also the top of the lifter will be flush with the anti rotation pin
Just did s&s cams on my 2000 fxdwg, I put in the SE push rods and I noticed after I tighten the front side and rotate the engine to do the back side the front Intake rod has up and down play. What did I do wrong? Is this normal ?
You just didn't get the lifter down enough go ahead and redo it. It needs to be flush with the anti rotation rod.
@@DeathProofProductions will do, thank you for the reply
Got a question, so I put the pushrod to zero lash went to eat came back and there was alot of movement on the push rod.. im stuck on the lash
Is it up and down play or is it just spinning.
@@DeathProofProductions up and down play
How long has it been since the engine was last fired up.
@@DeathProofProductions i just put in new cylinders camshaft and camplate
If the lifters bleed down than you can move the plunger pretty easy when you check up and down play. I would start again but remember once you can't feel it tapping stop than you can start counting resolutions.
Save your time by buying smithbrother pushrods Not S$S are junk 35 years of building they work great
Why are they junk
😎
Ok..got it all back together. Started it up. The oil light came on and it stays on. The rpms surge up and down. I'm afraid to let it run with that light on.
How long did you let it run. Also are you fuel injected.
A couple minutes. Yes it's fuel injected.
Did you go in the cam chest at all when u were working on it.
@@DeathProofProductions I did the cam chain tensioners. Replaced the o rings. Replaced the lifters. Soaked them pumped them up. Finally though I had it. I had it running yesterday. Didn't ice the light. Adjusted the rear pushrods 1/2 turn. Started it up...noticed the light didn't go out. I though maybe it was low on oil. Put a half quart in it and the light stayed on. Checked the oil pressure connector it was still connected.
The o ring might be pinched.
What’s the benefit of a adjustable push rod I don’t understand??? Why
Adjustable just gives you easy access to the cam chest.
It's the front inner pushrod
There is a groove that is open to the cam chest on the exhaust side under the lifter cover I would check in there u might be able to fish it out with some wire.
Is the exhaust side the outside pushrod? I'm thinking I might need to remove the lifter cover???
Took the lifter cover off...nothing there..got the shop vac out to try to suck it out...looking..looking...pulled out the leaf blower...orange laying on the floor..was hidden somewhere outside on the bike...I'm gonna clip it up with the pushrod..lesson learned.
Clip it up with the pushrod cover that is.
So after you check to make sure the rod could spend freely after that you added an additional 31/2 turns
Go clean his air filter for him then lol
The filter is clean that's the color of the material, it's some blackish gray fiber material crap that Harley put out that I bought. It's a cleanable filter but unless you use light to see if it's clean than you don't now for sure. I wish the just did what k.n. did and make it red so it would be easier to tell.
show us how to replace the air cleaner please, i cant watch this video because i cant take my eyes off that filthy air cleaner, seriously that air cleaner looks at least 10 years old
It's a k.n. filter there washable. I had just come back from Tampa on it and new it was time to replace the tensioners. I made a video replacing them and this was me finishing up with the pushrods. When that was finished I washed and recharged the filter.
How do you know how many turn to tighten up the rod you said yours is 3 1/2 how do you know that number ?
It came with the push rods back 10 years ago when I bought them, Yours doesn't have instructions. If it doesn't I need to know the thread pitch for me to calculate it up.