Just wanted to say, i had to change my tubes as the fwd/exhaust was badly dented. Watched your video multiple times. Thanks to you, i got it right first time. Tyvm
I am just now putting an S&S QUICKIE SET in my 07 ultra.. great tips... here is one for you and anyone doing this... sewing tread through the jam nut.... in a large loop( not tied) then you do not have to fight the jam nut... let it fall.. pull it back up when its needed... ❤ thanks for the info all around
@@GilstrapGarage your welcome, I have big paws. Hard to hold jam nut and lengthen the rod.... 2 wrenches only needed once 4 turns and bled down.. hold the fixed nut on pushrod.. then tighten jam nut... no sence in monkeying around with 2. 7/16 wrenches and 1/4.
Man I've had a leak for MONTHS I couldn't figure out! Watching this video set me straight! Thank u so much! I'm actually embarrassed but so happy it's fixed i don't even care😂😂. Good video homie!
I adjusted mine today, after 5000 on a cam, 465c milwaukee 8 114. I started getting rocker noise. It was my first time adjusting my own pushrods. I found top dead center, lifter all the way down. I'm sure I didn't get lash out correctly. First time, loud rocker noise. Readjusted adding 1/2 turn, yes after 4 turns. Ran it till hot. Quieter, wait till cooled down and readjusted. Quiet. I felt better just sneaking up on it. I run my bike hard, not surprised I had to adjust them. Now I know how. Good video
Clean everything with solvent. A hydraulic lifter has .200 of travel. Your pushrod wants to be half way @ .100 This is the same for 24 or 32tpi. Finding TDC.. rotate the pinion OR cam gear until the timing marks line up for the "rear head". Turn the pinion gear again 360° to 12 o'clock the timing marks are not aligned.. you are now TDC for the front head...everytime.
The thing most of these videos fail to mention is that adjustable pushrods come with different threads. A 32 tpi pushrod like S&S goes 4 turns or 24 flats. If you have 24 tpi pushrods you should go 3 turns or 18 flats. 24 tpi travel 25% further per turn compared to 32 tpi. This also affected by which cam and lifters you use.
i have a set of harley screaming eagle adj push rods cant find much info on setting them, any idea what tpi they would be 2004 road king twin cam 103 upgrade any info would be a great help
Thanks for this video. Really clear and gives me the confidence to do it myself. Thanks also for the tip on bleed down time. Kind of obvious but I wouldn't have thought of it.
Lifter preload is determined by the lifter manufacturer. Stock Harley lifters are .100"....with a 32TPI pushrod one full turn would be 0.03125", so to go .100' you would need 3.2 turns (if you are still using stock Harley lifters please get rid of them). If you are using S&S or Wood lifters, the preload is .120 to .140 (I set to .130). So using a 32TPI pushrod with S&S or Wood lifters the correct preload would be 4.2 turns. If you are using Wood pushrods at 24TPI the math changes....using Wood lifters and pushrods you need 3.12 turns to get the correct .130" preload.
Oh yeah, brought a test indicator hom from work. I know I had TDC. Only used it the first time. M8 you have to find TDC on all. Twin cam rear then front.
You mentioned in a reply that the 88 cu in might be different somehow? I thought this procedure was the same for all Twin Cam engines. Can you please clarify? Thanks!
I watched the video again, and I don't know if because of the angle of the lens, you have the exhaust pushrod on the outside, while the intake pushrod is on the inside, which is contrary to everything I have learned about them. I have been told that exhaust is inboard and intake outboard.
At about 19:30 in the video, you showed the marks you made on the intake and exhaust pushrods as you turn the rear wheel. You explained that you want to see when one pushrod goes up and the other pushrod goes down at the same time in order to find overlap. Is "overlap" the same as "base circle" when working on the same piston?. Also, do you rock the back wheel forward and back, or just keep turning the tire forward in order to find the overlap/base circle?
What length 7/16" wrenches are you using? They look longer than the standard Craftsman 7/16" wrenches. Longer wrenches makes tighter not to come loose. Thanks
I dont see how the retainers dont cause a leak with o-ring under the washer... i thought the washer was last so the retainers could push against it. Great video man. I'm in!
The way he set it up is correct spring goes in retainer cup first then the flat washer goes in resting against the spring this way when lastly installing the o ring it sits flat against the flat washer, it you do it the way you think it should be then the o ring will be resting against the end of the spring and that spring coil end is uneven and the end of the spring would deform the o ring and if it does not leak when you start up bike it will leak eventually. The other side of o ring needs to seat in the beveled end of the lower push rod cover.
🙌🏻🙌🏻 thanks for the patience man, it took way longer to get to shooting this video than I anticipated. You got it though, just take your time with it and it’ll go smooth
Removing the adjustable pushrods you do the same thing? Have oil coming out of my covers not sure why installed all new seals when installed all new sns stuff
Don’t go more. Your lifters are probably not pumped up enough to add any resistance. If you go too far you could hang a valve open or collapse the lifter.
So great this write up is. Thanks. Another video I was watching didn't mention reusing the old parts for the top of the push rods. Thank you. Great how to.
I've got a 1990 flhtcu with a 97 engine on it. I need to replace the cam cover gasket but don't want the hassle of taking off the gas tank, rocker covers/arms and stock pushrods to do it. Would cutting out the stock pushrods and replacing them with adjustable ones save me the hassle?
@@GilstrapGarage I pulled the lifters out today and front intake lifter wouldn’t hold oil, that explains the noise.. Brand new wood’s lifters! My brother put the same lifters in his and it’s noisy. I put screamin eagles in mine to get it running until the warranty replacement comes and it’s quiet now. Thanks for the reply!
@@coryturner9140 Where would the clicking come from? Between the lifter and the push rod, or between the push rod and the arm? My 2000 Heritage Classic, with S&S pushrods and lifters sounds like an old typewriter.
If you installed the lifters dry the lifters will me compressed too far for normal operation. If you pumped them up before installing, then you just have to wait 10-20 minutes each after you set your push rod length and they will be bled enough to turn the engine over
@@GilstrapGarage have you seen any cam bearing get damaged during removal? After I pulled bearing and removed from the tool I noticed couple rollers fell out and cage was a little damaged inside. Didn’t see anything or debris elsewhere and new cam bearing went in smooth 👍
I am not sure why some of guys don't use a rubber band and a paper to to hold up the push rod tube to keep it out of the way to adjust the push rod . Plus you can easily see the adjustment nuts better . god job just my thinking
Intake and exhaust are different lengths. The quickee pushrods don’t matter because they adjust out, but some adjustable pushrods from other manufacturers are labeled for intake and exhaust.
just a thought, you showed that the Harley OEM exhaust side pushrods are slightly longer than intake. why is it then that S&S have all the same 24 flts or 4 turn in their adjustable pushrods?
Nice job my bud….I’d say this has to be the best vids out there explaining in depth… call me weird but love the background noises 🤣 looking forward to seeing your channel explode 🤘😎🤘
I don't know about anyone else, but I just love the sound of the metal clicking together, meaning that the wrenches striking the engine. it sounds great.
@Gilstrap Garage yeah I'm just thinking outloud. I bought an 2000 fxdwg last year that has been staged 4 modded since nearly new. looking at the owners service records he had a dealership do the hydraulic tensioner upgrade, and they threw new harley lifters in it at the time. It has a woods tw6h cam in it, with valve springs(ported heads, 95" hi comp, 44mm se carb, intake, ignition ect) it has a little valve noise but that's probably to be expected... but I also feel like dicking around with the pre load on the lifters too 🤣
@@85slauer 👍yep, I even take apart and clean new lifters before install to get the factory oils etc. out and check travel, then pump them up with an oil pump can, install and set pushrod length
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to let you know that there is a Seller on Amazon referencing you video [ Information } for his product. That being said his product is Not S&S Quickee Pushrods. Just a heads up
Is there an additional benefit, in your opinion, to being .025" past the half way position of the total travel amount of lifter play? (In response to the folks that are questioning your additional 4 flats )
Don’t you want to put the upper o rings in the head first ? Everywhere I read says don’t put the oring on the top of the push rod (that goes into the rocker arm ) put the o ring into the head then shap the top in
I’ve never used the stock pushrods on a new cam. I imagine if the base circle of the cam had the same profile I’d would be okay. If it’s not, then your valves won’t close completely
You can follow the pushrod mfg advice on turns or you can be smarter than that. Ideally you want to push down on the tappet 100 thousandths of an inch. Period. That gives you dead center of the tappet travel. Measure the the pushrod adjuster threads per inch, divide by 10. Thats how many turns you want. May end up being 3 1/4 turns.... Maybe more maybe less. Different mfg's use different thread pitches. Thats the right way to do it.
that's right boys, cut them pushrods. Hey, no problem- introduce 4 more potential points of failure; cuz there isn't enough in a Harley already. And why?, oh that's right- you'll 'save' so much time. I mean- you'll 'never' go upstairs right? You'll never change out the breathers. Besides, what could go wrong- you got this... While you're at it- why don't you twin-cam boys just remove your tensioners, yup- just delete them altogether, and sure- delete the compensator too. Who cares about design tolerances- what do those nerdy engineers know anyway? ????????????? - Boys- think.
Lol. Why don’t you click on the playlist “Aly’s Dyna” on my page. You can see the kind of maintenance that gets done. You can also hear why I like the convenience of the adjustable pushrods for the miles I make. What do those nerdy 1 time viewers know anyway?
I used the timing marks but seeing so many ppl not using it I'm wondering if I did something wrong? Does the timing mark only work on stock cams? Or are they the same no matter what size cam?
If there is a more comprehensive video on pushrods I couldn't find it. Thank you so much man! Subscribed!
Thank you for taking the time to make this vid. It has been extremely helpful. You have shed light on what, to me, was a dark art.
Glad to hear it!
This was the best video I've seen for how to install these. Thanks for all of the detail.
Thank you!
@GilstrapGarage no sir, thank you! I thought 24 flats was a lot too. But here you are showing that it's the way to go.
Thank you for the great video, without annoying background music that makes it difficult to hear what you are saying. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
‘95 Road King here. S&S 93-5120 Quickee pushrods. Two are slightly shorter, they go to the intakes. I hope this is helpful to someone.
Just wanted to say, i had to change my tubes as the fwd/exhaust was badly dented. Watched your video multiple times. Thanks to you, i got it right first time. Tyvm
Awesome video thanks, gotta do mine tonight, finally after 2 years my s&s 124 is running on my 98 e
Glide..
I am just now putting an S&S QUICKIE SET in my 07 ultra.. great tips... here is one for you and anyone doing this... sewing tread through the jam nut.... in a large loop( not tied) then you do not have to fight the jam nut... let it fall.. pull it back up when its needed... ❤ thanks for the info all around
Nice tip! Thank you for that 🤘🏻
@@GilstrapGarage your welcome, I have big paws. Hard to hold jam nut and lengthen the rod.... 2 wrenches only needed once 4 turns and bled down.. hold the fixed nut on pushrod.. then tighten jam nut... no sence in monkeying around with 2. 7/16 wrenches and 1/4.
Or just grab it with a small pick-up magnet.
Man I've had a leak for MONTHS I couldn't figure out! Watching this video set me straight! Thank u so much! I'm actually embarrassed but so happy it's fixed i don't even care😂😂. Good video homie!
I adjusted mine today, after 5000 on a cam, 465c milwaukee 8 114. I started getting rocker noise. It was my first time adjusting my own pushrods. I found top dead center, lifter all the way down. I'm sure I didn't get lash out correctly. First time, loud rocker noise. Readjusted adding 1/2 turn, yes after 4 turns. Ran it till hot. Quieter, wait till cooled down and readjusted. Quiet. I felt better just sneaking up on it.
I run my bike hard, not surprised I had to adjust them. Now I know how. Good video
Appreciate you making this video! Cleared up some questions I had and made the install of those s&s quickee rods much easier and worry free. 🙏
Clean everything with solvent. A hydraulic lifter has .200 of travel. Your pushrod wants to be half way @ .100 This is the same for 24 or 32tpi. Finding TDC.. rotate the pinion OR cam gear until the timing marks line up for the "rear head". Turn the pinion gear again 360° to 12 o'clock the timing marks are not aligned.. you are now TDC for the front head...everytime.
The thing most of these videos fail to mention is that adjustable pushrods come with different threads. A 32 tpi pushrod like S&S goes 4 turns or 24 flats. If you have 24 tpi pushrods you should go 3 turns or 18 flats. 24 tpi travel 25% further per turn compared to 32 tpi. This also affected by which cam and lifters you use.
i have a set of harley screaming eagle adj push rods cant find much info on setting them, any idea what tpi they would be 2004 road king twin cam 103 upgrade any info would be a great help
Thanks for this video. Really clear and gives me the confidence to do it myself. Thanks also for the tip on bleed down time. Kind of obvious but I wouldn't have thought of it.
Thanks! Great how to video
Much appreciated! Thank you 🙏🏻
Lifter preload is determined by the lifter manufacturer. Stock Harley lifters are .100"....with a 32TPI pushrod one full turn would be 0.03125", so to go .100' you would need 3.2 turns (if you are still using stock Harley lifters please get rid of them). If you are using S&S or Wood lifters, the preload is .120 to .140 (I set to .130). So using a 32TPI pushrod with S&S or Wood lifters the correct preload would be 4.2 turns. If you are using Wood pushrods at 24TPI the math changes....using Wood lifters and pushrods you need 3.12 turns to get the correct .130" preload.
very informative thank you Erich.
How do you know the pushrod is hitting the rocker arm where it’s supposed to
Thank you for your knowledge
You should be able to feel it seat in there, you won’t have any binding or side to side movement
@@GilstrapGarage thank you I did feel it and bike runs great 👍
Thanks for showing this and all the extra tips to help with installation.🙂
🙌🏻 No problem! Thanks for the continuing support
Oh yeah, brought a test indicator hom from work. I know I had TDC. Only used it the first time. M8 you have to find TDC on all. Twin cam rear then front.
You mentioned in a reply that the 88 cu in might be different somehow? I thought this procedure was the same for all Twin Cam engines. Can you please clarify? Thanks!
I watched the video again, and I don't know if because of the angle of the lens, you have the exhaust pushrod on the outside, while the intake pushrod is on the inside, which is contrary to everything I have learned about them. I have been told that exhaust is inboard and intake outboard.
Without even reading the service manual, The angle of lifter covers point the pushrods and the tubes to their proper spot on the heads.
At about 19:30 in the video, you showed the marks you made on the intake and exhaust pushrods as you turn the rear wheel. You explained that you want to see when one pushrod goes up and the other pushrod goes down at the same time in order to find overlap. Is "overlap" the same as "base circle" when working on the same piston?. Also, do you rock the back wheel forward and back, or just keep turning the tire forward in order to find the overlap/base circle?
when one set of valves is in overlap (opening and closing) then the opposite cylinder will be on the base circle of the cam.
@@GilstrapGarage Thanks. I just got thrown off about "giving her the beans" as it relates to locking down the jamb nut.
What length 7/16" wrenches are you using? They look longer than the standard Craftsman 7/16" wrenches.
Longer wrenches makes tighter not to come loose. Thanks
Awesome video, man. I hope you get 100k subs with this. I am doing my cam this weekend. I couldn't ask for a better explanation.
Awesome man! Thanks for watching 🤘🏻
Do you have a video on installing new cam and push rods on a M8?
Milwaukee 8 cam install (S&S 475c)
th-cam.com/video/-XgofLdcn90/w-d-xo.html
So 4 turns is acceptable for push rods rather than 3 1/2 turns
I dont see how the retainers dont cause a leak with o-ring under the washer... i thought the washer was last so the retainers could push against it. Great video man. I'm in!
The way he set it up is correct spring goes in retainer cup first then the flat washer goes in resting against the spring this way when lastly installing the o ring it sits flat against the flat washer, it you do it the way you think it should be then the o ring will be resting against the end of the spring and that spring coil end is uneven and the end of the spring would deform the o ring and if it does not leak when you start up bike it will leak eventually. The other side of o ring needs to seat in the beveled end of the lower push rod cover.
I’ve been waiting for this one! Thanks, I feel a lot better about doing my seals now
🙌🏻🙌🏻 thanks for the patience man, it took way longer to get to shooting this video than I anticipated. You got it though, just take your time with it and it’ll go smooth
@@GilstrapGarage I’m snowed in so the timing couldn’t be more perfect
Removing the adjustable pushrods you do the same thing? Have oil coming out of my covers not sure why installed all new seals when installed all new sns stuff
yup! get the lifters on the base circle of the cam and back off the adjustment.
What if when I did the 4 turns, my pushrods are already spinning without having to wait?
Don’t go more. Your lifters are probably not pumped up enough to add any resistance. If you go too far you could hang a valve open or collapse the lifter.
So great this write up is. Thanks. Another video I was watching didn't mention reusing the old parts for the top of the push rods. Thank you. Great how to.
I've got a 1990 flhtcu with a 97 engine on it. I need to replace the cam cover gasket but don't want the hassle of taking off the gas tank, rocker covers/arms and stock pushrods to do it.
Would cutting out the stock pushrods and replacing them with adjustable ones save me the hassle?
Yes it would. But you will have to purchase the “quickee” style pushrods
Are the quickies labeled intake/exhaust ? Probably doesn’t matter cause they adjust to proper length
The S&S quickies are not labeled. If you’re buying non-quickie adjustables, they are usually labeled
Why is 3 1/2 turns is that proper pressure
If they are noisy should I give them two more flats each to lengthen them out a bit?
As long as you don’t exceed the lifter’s manufacturer specs
@@GilstrapGarage I pulled the lifters out today and front intake lifter wouldn’t hold oil, that explains the noise.. Brand new wood’s lifters! My brother put the same lifters in his and it’s noisy. I put screamin eagles in mine to get it running until the warranty replacement comes and it’s quiet now. Thanks for the reply!
@@coryturner9140 Where would the clicking come from? Between the lifter and the push rod, or between the push rod and the arm? My 2000 Heritage Classic, with S&S pushrods and lifters sounds like an old typewriter.
@@CarlosGarcia-ls4hn I had a bad lifter brand new woods alpha wouldn’t hold oil, that was my noise.
@@GilstrapGarage Is there a scenario when you would not follow the specs and not do the full turns as specified?
Why not if you have the cam cover off just line up your timing marks ?
If you installing pushrods with existing lifters already installed do you have to pump them up? How do you get a good bleed down effect?
If you installed the lifters dry the lifters will me compressed too far for normal operation. If you pumped them up before installing, then you just have to wait 10-20 minutes each after you set your push rod length and they will be bled enough to turn the engine over
@@GilstrapGarage have you seen any cam bearing get damaged during removal? After I pulled bearing and removed from the tool I noticed couple rollers fell out and cage was a little damaged inside. Didn’t see anything or debris elsewhere and new cam bearing went in smooth 👍
Change cam chain tensioner during this?
So would this instal be for 88ci vtwins or is it the same process for all vtwin like the 104?
88ci motors are a little different because the cam has to be pressed in and out of the cam plate with a special tool
I am not sure why some of guys don't use a rubber band and a paper to to hold up the push rod tube to keep it out of the way to adjust the push rod . Plus you can easily see the adjustment nuts better . god job just my thinking
You’re the man!!! Thank you!!
Happy to help!
are the pushrods all the same size/length , meaning they can go in either the intake or the exhaust side ?
Intake and exhaust are different lengths. The quickee pushrods don’t matter because they adjust out, but some adjustable pushrods from other manufacturers are labeled for intake and exhaust.
Awesome, just ordered them so great timing with your response 💪😎
just a thought, you showed that the Harley OEM exhaust side pushrods are slightly longer than intake. why is it then that S&S have all the same 24 flts or 4 turn in their adjustable pushrods?
when you run the end play out of the pushrods it lengthens more than the intake side does
Great job man, thanks for sharing! Any preference between S&S Quickee and Fuelings adjustable pushrods?
Thanks for watching. I’ve never used the Feuling. I always go with S&S or Screamin Eagle.
Nice job my bud….I’d say this has to be the best vids out there explaining in depth… call me weird but love the background noises 🤣 looking forward to seeing your channel explode 🤘😎🤘
I think most of the noise from this one was the gnarly ass wind that was coming through 🤣 thanks for watching, man!
I don't know about anyone else, but I just love the sound of the metal clicking together, meaning that the wrenches striking the engine. it sounds great.
I have andrews 48 cams.does it matter on these pushrods
Nope, same process.
U hav the cam cover off.... cant u use the timing marks on the gears to find tdc???
I wonder how many (turns)total travel most lifters would have.
Most manufacturers will tell you their recommendations if it’s not listed In the instructions
@Gilstrap Garage yeah I'm just thinking outloud. I bought an 2000 fxdwg last year that has been staged 4 modded since nearly new. looking at the owners service records he had a dealership do the hydraulic tensioner upgrade, and they threw new harley lifters in it at the time. It has a woods tw6h cam in it, with valve springs(ported heads, 95" hi comp, 44mm se carb, intake, ignition ect) it has a little valve noise but that's probably to be expected... but I also feel like dicking around with the pre load on the lifters too 🤣
Take your lifters out, take them apart and clean them up then measure the travel with a dial indicator or digital caliper
And then set the rods half way into that travel, correct?
@@85slauer 👍yep, I even take apart and clean new lifters before install to get the factory oils etc. out and check travel, then pump them up with an oil pump can, install and set pushrod length
Are the amount of threads shown going to be different on each pushrod?
Yupp. Each intake and exhaust should be close to the same as the other side though
@@GilstrapGarage thank you for the reply
The stock exhaust and intake pushrods are different lengths, so naturally they would end up looking different with the adjustable units.
do you put locktite on the jam nut?
Personally no, but I’ve heard it other people doing it.
Why can’t I put my bike ins 6th gear I have to use both hands to spin it an it’s hard!?
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to let you know that there is a Seller on Amazon referencing you video [ Information } for his product. That being said his product is Not S&S Quickee Pushrods. Just a heads up
no way! any way you can find that link for me?
Not sure what position or where the cam should be. Is the Pushrod on the BASE or is it on the cam?
Very good video...
Thanks for sharing being a rookie it helped
Is there an additional benefit, in your opinion, to being .025" past the half way position of the total travel amount of lifter play? (In response to the folks that are questioning your additional 4 flats )
Excellent instruction!
No if the nut falls down in the hole get your pick with the curve in it. Not the L shape pick but the one in the snake shape. Fishes out easy.
Don’t you want to put the upper o rings in the head first ? Everywhere I read says don’t put the oring on the top of the push rod (that goes into the rocker arm ) put the o ring into the head then shap the top in
Question do the push rods have to be changed or can you use your stock push rods with a new cam, like a S&S 475c cam on a 114 M8
I’ve never used the stock pushrods on a new cam. I imagine if the base circle of the cam had the same profile I’d would be okay. If it’s not, then your valves won’t close completely
rotate rear wheel in top 5th gear or 6th
great informative video.
Thank you 🙌🏻
I learned a lot here Thanks@@GilstrapGarage
Thanks helped alot
Awesome video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
Why....couldnt fuel moto make a video like this?! Their pushrods are a serious headache compared to other brands
These kept backing off on me just do one piece pushrods and I tightened the hell out of them
loctite
Great video
Thank you!
Lifter travel is .2 inch. The ideal adjustment is 3.25 turns for .1 inch. Motion Pro 08-0255. Handy little pliers for the uppers. Well worth the $15
Thanks for this video very helpful. But I might be doing something wrong 😅 it won’t start but it will crank
Did you do a cam as well?
@@GilstrapGarage yes I did
@@rodolfolopezduran2320 is there a chance you didn’t time your cam properly?
@@GilstrapGarage thanks it’s a big possibility that’s what’s going on.
damn good job I hope S&S looks out for you.
Thanks man! That would be sweet! Everyone tag em and let em know I need a 100” sidewinder kit 🤣🤣
@GilstrapGarage so u recommend this push rods with the 100 sidewinder kit?
You can follow the pushrod mfg advice on turns or you can be smarter than that. Ideally you want to push down on the tappet 100 thousandths of an inch. Period. That gives you dead center of the tappet travel. Measure the the pushrod adjuster threads per inch, divide by 10. Thats how many turns you want. May end up being 3 1/4 turns.... Maybe more maybe less. Different mfg's use different thread pitches. Thats the right way to do it.
😅😅
Just thinking that a little red loctite in a small syringe could be dropped onto the threads on pushrod just before engaging the locknut.
Nice work ol son
Didn't put oil on any of the o rings 😬😬😬
And they still don’t leak
So these are zero lash never knew that
Yes sir!
that's right boys, cut them pushrods. Hey, no problem- introduce 4 more potential points of failure; cuz there isn't enough in a Harley already. And why?, oh that's right- you'll 'save' so much time. I mean- you'll 'never' go upstairs right? You'll never change out the breathers. Besides, what could go wrong- you got this... While you're at it- why don't you twin-cam boys just remove your tensioners, yup- just delete them altogether, and sure- delete the compensator too. Who cares about design tolerances- what do those nerdy engineers know anyway? ????????????? - Boys- think.
Lol. Why don’t you click on the playlist “Aly’s Dyna” on my page. You can see the kind of maintenance that gets done. You can also hear why I like the convenience of the adjustable pushrods for the miles I make. What do those nerdy 1 time viewers know anyway?
You did okay, but gonna have to have to pull your man card for wearing the plastic gloves... working on a clean engine.
I notice that alot of ppl dont use the timing marks on sprockets to determine the overlap....
I used the timing marks but seeing so many ppl not using it I'm wondering if I did something wrong? Does the timing mark only work on stock cams? Or are they the same no matter what size cam?
If your timing cover is off just use the marks. dot on cam a @ 6 oclock do rear cylinder mark @ 12 oclock front cylinder.
Thank you
must be cold in that shop