People should know that there are two versions of the switch; US95 is for the standard steering column and US105 is for the tilt column. US105 has the bracket reversed.
That other rod, that is on the left side of the steering column, is the switch for the turn indicator - I think. When I removed the ignition switch, it freed the turn indicator switch and that rod fell completely free - It would be best to tape that rod to the column. The ignition switch rod was hard to get out of the switch.
You said "drop the steering column". How far should it go? My steering wheel dropped about 1 inch, possibly less. The brackets out of the way help, but still I can barely see the switch. I did get both switches disconnected. It is helpful to know that both connectors have two latch releases each.
Does anyone know if you change the steering column from a manual truck and put another steering column from a automatic one would affect. My truck won’t start
I've got an 88 Chevy C1500 that's not wanting to turn over or start at all. At first, I thought it was the battery, so i replaced that, which didn't fix it. Then i figured maybe it's the starter, so we replaced that & it still didn't work. Next, we thought it could be the ignition control module, so that's new now, too. Still nothing. The last thing i could even think would be the issue is the ignition control switch itself, like in this video. Would you have any idea whether or not replacing this switch might solve the dead truck problem for me? I'm not super familiar with vehicle work quite yet, but I've already sunk $300 into parts with no result so I'm a bit hesitant to do much more experimenting with it atm haha.
sorry for the late reply but it could be possible that the ignition switch is bad. or maybe a neutral safety switch if its not turning over at all. its hard to say honesty electrical stuff can do weird things even from just a bad ground. Best of luck.
What problems was it giving you? My 88 drags on starting on occasion battery, alternator and starter are good trying to find another cause to the problem.
The problem I had with the old switch was it would always giving power to the starter even when it wasn’t on the run position. One day I went out to start my truck. I turned the key over and the starter engaged the flexolatw and turned over the engine and it started with no problem. when I backed off the key to leave it on the run position like you normally would the starter disengaged like normal, but kept spinning inside the starter body itself. I should the truck off and I disconnected the battery and when I went to hook it back up, it did the same thing the starter was spinning a side of its body. It did it two times and fixed itself but I went ahead and replace the switch.
After the truck started and I let off the key the start was still spinning inside the starter body. After replacing the switch I no longer had that issue.
How do you get the adjustment right on this? I replaced mine a couple of years ago and can't remember how I did it, but today my key stopped turning all the way forward (yet somehow catches just enough for crank to work for now) and my wipers sometimes don't work unless I jiggle the key. I suspect the linkage from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch isn't aligned just right or something. It looks like the mounting holes for the switch are elongated, so I would assume it is adjustable, but I'm not sure what needs to be in what position to do it correctly.
I know the neutral safety switch on the bottom of the steering column is adjustable. As for the ignition switch im not sure. I would have to dig into myself and look aground.
@@willyworks52 I actually took it down, made sure it was adjusted in the same position yours is in, and put it back up. I replaced my lock cylinder because I think that was my main issue, but adjusting the same as yours seems to have done the trick. Thanks for posting the video!
People should know that there are two versions of the switch; US95 is for the standard steering column and US105 is for the tilt column. US105 has the bracket reversed.
That other rod, that is on the left side of the steering column, is the switch for the turn indicator - I think. When I removed the ignition switch, it freed the turn indicator switch and that rod fell completely free - It would be best to tape that rod to the column. The ignition switch rod was hard to get out of the switch.
Heads up guys...big diff between the switch on tilt and no tilt.
Part number US95 is for the standard steering column and US105 is for the tilt column.
Whew thank you for this!😊
Good video. Appreciate it👍
You said "drop the steering column". How far should it go? My steering wheel dropped about 1 inch, possibly less.
The brackets out of the way help, but still I can barely see the switch. I did get both switches disconnected. It is helpful to know that both connectors have two latch releases each.
The column doesn’t drop a whole lot it’s still a bit of a pain to get in there.
best tub
Was there intermittent starting and non starting especially when hot ?
Does anyone know if you change the steering column from a manual truck and put another steering column from a automatic one would affect. My truck won’t start
I've got an 88 Chevy C1500 that's not wanting to turn over or start at all. At first, I thought it was the battery, so i replaced that, which didn't fix it. Then i figured maybe it's the starter, so we replaced that & it still didn't work. Next, we thought it could be the ignition control module, so that's new now, too. Still nothing. The last thing i could even think would be the issue is the ignition control switch itself, like in this video. Would you have any idea whether or not replacing this switch might solve the dead truck problem for me? I'm not super familiar with vehicle work quite yet, but I've already sunk $300 into parts with no result so I'm a bit hesitant to do much more experimenting with it atm haha.
sorry for the late reply but it could be possible that the ignition switch is bad. or maybe a neutral safety switch if its not turning over at all. its hard to say honesty electrical stuff can do weird things even from just a bad ground. Best of luck.
I am in similar situation with a 94 g20. I am going to try a new ignition switch.
What problems was it giving you? My 88 drags on starting on occasion battery, alternator and starter are good trying to find another cause to the problem.
The problem I had with the old switch was it would always giving power to the starter even when it wasn’t on the run position. One day I went out to start my truck. I turned the key over and the starter engaged the flexolatw and turned over the engine and it started with no problem. when I backed off the key to leave it on the run position like you normally would the starter disengaged like normal, but kept spinning inside the starter body itself. I should the truck off and I disconnected the battery and when I went to hook it back up, it did the same thing the starter was spinning a side of its body. It did it two times and fixed itself but I went ahead and replace the switch.
What symptoms indicated that the switch needed to be replaced?
After the truck started and I let off the key the start was still spinning inside the starter body. After replacing the switch I no longer had that issue.
How do you get the adjustment right on this? I replaced mine a couple of years ago and can't remember how I did it, but today my key stopped turning all the way forward (yet somehow catches just enough for crank to work for now) and my wipers sometimes don't work unless I jiggle the key. I suspect the linkage from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch isn't aligned just right or something. It looks like the mounting holes for the switch are elongated, so I would assume it is adjustable, but I'm not sure what needs to be in what position to do it correctly.
I know the neutral safety switch on the bottom of the steering column is adjustable. As for the ignition switch im not sure. I would have to dig into myself and look aground.
@@willyworks52 I actually took it down, made sure it was adjusted in the same position yours is in, and put it back up. I replaced my lock cylinder because I think that was my main issue, but adjusting the same as yours seems to have done the trick. Thanks for posting the video!