🤯 I have a 1988 short c1500 short bed with this same issue but No dim lights my battery & alternator are good! Funny thing is my truck STARTS EVERY TIME no problem with my remote start 📟 just only sometimes with the key in the ignition so I was told that narrows it down to 2 issues this part in video which I bought yesterday or the starter relay on the fuse box which I just replaced & it’s still doing the same thing so now I need to figure out how to drop this steering column & install this part myself as the buddy who installed my alarm 🚨 remote start on this truck 2/3 years ago wants $100 to install this ignition switch which I think is overkill 💰 a ridiculous high price but I may be wrong I think I can tackle this install and save myself $100 put that $ in the gas tank 😂
Having similar issues with my 89 s10 . I have purchased a new Ignition Cylinder & Ignition for the steering column. Plan on replacing everything Sunday. I hope it works.
That other rod, that is on the left side of the steering column, is the switch for the turn indicator - I think. When I removed the ignition switch, it freed the turn indicator switch and that rod fell completely free - It would be best to tape that rod to the column. The ignition switch rod was hard to get out of the switch.
The other rod on the left that is easy to see is for your high beam switch at bottom of column...when you pull back on the turn signal lever, there is a little plastic piece that pushes a metal rod leading down to that white switch with the little hole for the rod to set in...that rod pushes the switch from low to high beam and back to low and so on:)...my problem is the electric ignition switch or its out of adjustment or worse the rod is bent and that will cause me to dissect my entire steering column.
You said "drop the steering column". How far should it go? My steering wheel dropped about 1 inch, possibly less. The brackets out of the way help, but still I can barely see the switch. I did get both switches disconnected. It is helpful to know that both connectors have two latch releases each.
I've got an 88 Chevy C1500 that's not wanting to turn over or start at all. At first, I thought it was the battery, so i replaced that, which didn't fix it. Then i figured maybe it's the starter, so we replaced that & it still didn't work. Next, we thought it could be the ignition control module, so that's new now, too. Still nothing. The last thing i could even think would be the issue is the ignition control switch itself, like in this video. Would you have any idea whether or not replacing this switch might solve the dead truck problem for me? I'm not super familiar with vehicle work quite yet, but I've already sunk $300 into parts with no result so I'm a bit hesitant to do much more experimenting with it atm haha.
sorry for the late reply but it could be possible that the ignition switch is bad. or maybe a neutral safety switch if its not turning over at all. its hard to say honesty electrical stuff can do weird things even from just a bad ground. Best of luck.
What happens when you turn the key? Doed the starter click. Do the lights dim on the dash? Do you have a voltmeter so you can test if you have current to the module/switch/starter
@fidencioflores2680 Thanks for the reply! Fortunately I figured out my issue, turns out I'm just a dummy and had the new starter wired up incorrectly. There are multiple posts to connect the wiring to on the starter, but turns out one of them is a dud post, which happened to be the one I had wired up. Once I realized that, I wired it to the correct post and then it started right up.
I have the same truck 88 short bed with this same issue. No dim lights battery alternator good! Funny thing is my truck starts every time no problem with my remote start remote just only sometimes with the key in the ignition so I was told that narrows it down to 2 issues this part in video which I bought yesterday or the starter relay on the fuse box which I just replaced & it’s still doing the same thing so now I need to figure out how to drop this steering column & install this part myself as a buddy who installed my alarm 🚨 remote start wants $100 to install this ignition switch which I feel is overkill 💰 ridiculous price.
Having an issue with my fuel pump always on , already replaced the Relay, but still doing the same thing!! Looking at the possibility of a bad ignition switch, any input will b appreciated!
People should know that there are two versions of the switch; US95 is for the standard steering column and US105 is for the tilt column. US105 has the bracket reversed.
My truck isn't cranking or starting when it's hot. If you drive it for a while (like 20min or more) and then turn it off it won't start again for a while. All of the gauges go up and down when you turn the key but it doesn't crank, click, or anything when you turn the key. You have to wait at least 10 to 15 minutes. Then it starts fine. Can't figure out why. I bypassed the clutch safety switch but that didn't change anything. Someone told me to install a relay in the ignition wire but i don't understand why that would help.
How do you get the adjustment right on this? I replaced mine a couple of years ago and can't remember how I did it, but today my key stopped turning all the way forward (yet somehow catches just enough for crank to work for now) and my wipers sometimes don't work unless I jiggle the key. I suspect the linkage from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch isn't aligned just right or something. It looks like the mounting holes for the switch are elongated, so I would assume it is adjustable, but I'm not sure what needs to be in what position to do it correctly.
I know the neutral safety switch on the bottom of the steering column is adjustable. As for the ignition switch im not sure. I would have to dig into myself and look aground.
@@willyworks52 I actually took it down, made sure it was adjusted in the same position yours is in, and put it back up. I replaced my lock cylinder because I think that was my main issue, but adjusting the same as yours seems to have done the trick. Thanks for posting the video!
I had problem with the adjustment. If the switch (in the mounting slots) is too far down the column, the switch will not engage the starter. If the switch is too high on the column, it will crank, start, and run fine - but it will not turn off. I had to apply my manual choke to kill the engine. It wants to be somewhere in between, probably varying from vehicle to vehicle.
What problems was it giving you? My 88 drags on starting on occasion battery, alternator and starter are good trying to find another cause to the problem.
The problem I had with the old switch was it would always giving power to the starter even when it wasn’t on the run position. One day I went out to start my truck. I turned the key over and the starter engaged the flexolatw and turned over the engine and it started with no problem. when I backed off the key to leave it on the run position like you normally would the starter disengaged like normal, but kept spinning inside the starter body itself. I should the truck off and I disconnected the battery and when I went to hook it back up, it did the same thing the starter was spinning a side of its body. It did it two times and fixed itself but I went ahead and replace the switch.
After the truck started and I let off the key the start was still spinning inside the starter body. After replacing the switch I no longer had that issue.
My warning Lights like glow Plug Light (because my Truck is a 6.5) and Parking Brake work. Rest of the warning Lights are not working. So Im planning on replacing this ignition Switch. See it coming Im gonna be frustrated If the ignition Switch was not at fault but still made the effort to change the stupid Switch...😑
Does anyone know if you change the steering column from a manual truck and put another steering column from a automatic one would affect. My truck won’t start
Your a life savor I took mine apart two years ago and forgot how it went back together lol 😝
🤯 I have a 1988 short c1500 short bed with this same issue but No dim lights my battery & alternator are good! Funny thing is my truck STARTS EVERY TIME no problem with my remote start 📟 just only sometimes with the key in the ignition so I was told that narrows it down to 2 issues this part in video which I bought yesterday or the starter relay on the fuse box which I just replaced & it’s still doing the same thing so now I need to figure out how to drop this steering column & install this part myself as the buddy who installed my alarm 🚨 remote start on this truck 2/3 years ago wants $100 to install this ignition switch which I think is overkill 💰 a ridiculous high price but I may be wrong I think I can tackle this install and save myself $100 put that $ in the gas tank 😂
Having similar issues with my 89 s10 . I have purchased a new Ignition Cylinder & Ignition for the steering column.
Plan on replacing everything Sunday. I hope it works.
That other rod, that is on the left side of the steering column, is the switch for the turn indicator - I think. When I removed the ignition switch, it freed the turn indicator switch and that rod fell completely free - It would be best to tape that rod to the column. The ignition switch rod was hard to get out of the switch.
The other rod on the left that is easy to see is for your high beam switch at bottom of column...when you pull back on the turn signal lever, there is a little plastic piece that pushes a metal rod leading down to that white switch with the little hole for the rod to set in...that rod pushes the switch from low to high beam and back to low and so on:)...my problem is the electric ignition switch or its out of adjustment or worse the rod is bent and that will cause me to dissect my entire steering column.
U was a lifesaver on this
You said "drop the steering column". How far should it go? My steering wheel dropped about 1 inch, possibly less.
The brackets out of the way help, but still I can barely see the switch. I did get both switches disconnected. It is helpful to know that both connectors have two latch releases each.
The column doesn’t drop a whole lot it’s still a bit of a pain to get in there.
You can drop the whole thing if you remove
all four screws at the base of the steering column
I've got an 88 Chevy C1500 that's not wanting to turn over or start at all. At first, I thought it was the battery, so i replaced that, which didn't fix it. Then i figured maybe it's the starter, so we replaced that & it still didn't work. Next, we thought it could be the ignition control module, so that's new now, too. Still nothing. The last thing i could even think would be the issue is the ignition control switch itself, like in this video. Would you have any idea whether or not replacing this switch might solve the dead truck problem for me? I'm not super familiar with vehicle work quite yet, but I've already sunk $300 into parts with no result so I'm a bit hesitant to do much more experimenting with it atm haha.
sorry for the late reply but it could be possible that the ignition switch is bad. or maybe a neutral safety switch if its not turning over at all. its hard to say honesty electrical stuff can do weird things even from just a bad ground. Best of luck.
I am in similar situation with a 94 g20. I am going to try a new ignition switch.
What happens when you turn the key? Doed the starter click. Do the lights dim on the dash? Do you have a voltmeter so you can test if you have current to the module/switch/starter
@fidencioflores2680 Thanks for the reply! Fortunately I figured out my issue, turns out I'm just a dummy and had the new starter wired up incorrectly. There are multiple posts to connect the wiring to on the starter, but turns out one of them is a dud post, which happened to be the one I had wired up. Once I realized that, I wired it to the correct post and then it started right up.
I have the same truck 88 short bed with this same issue. No dim lights battery alternator good! Funny thing is my truck starts every time no problem with my remote start remote just only sometimes with the key in the ignition so I was told that narrows it down to 2 issues this part in video which I bought yesterday or the starter relay on the fuse box which I just replaced & it’s still doing the same thing so now I need to figure out how to drop this steering column & install this part myself as a buddy who installed my alarm 🚨 remote start wants $100 to install this ignition switch which I feel is overkill 💰 ridiculous price.
Great video… is there a certain slot or position the ignition needs to be in when it’s installed
Whew thank you for this!😊
Good video. Appreciate it👍
Having an issue with my fuel pump always on , already replaced the Relay, but still doing the same thing!! Looking at the possibility of a bad ignition switch, any input will b appreciated!
Was there intermittent starting and non starting especially when hot ?
Does that ignition switch also doesn’t make the shifter move or is for something else?
People should know that there are two versions of the switch; US95 is for the standard steering column and US105 is for the tilt column. US105 has the bracket reversed.
How do you know if you need the tilt one? Sorry might be dumb question just want to make sure
best tub
Heads up guys...big diff between the switch on tilt and no tilt.
Part number US95 is for the standard steering column and US105 is for the tilt column.
My truck isn't cranking or starting when it's hot. If you drive it for a while (like 20min or more) and then turn it off it won't start again for a while. All of the gauges go up and down when you turn the key but it doesn't crank, click, or anything when you turn the key. You have to wait at least 10 to 15 minutes. Then it starts fine. Can't figure out why. I bypassed the clutch safety switch but that didn't change anything. Someone told me to install a relay in the ignition wire but i don't understand why that would help.
What’s the size of the screw that holds the ignition switch to the steering column ?
How do I unplug the black back wire
How do you get the adjustment right on this? I replaced mine a couple of years ago and can't remember how I did it, but today my key stopped turning all the way forward (yet somehow catches just enough for crank to work for now) and my wipers sometimes don't work unless I jiggle the key. I suspect the linkage from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch isn't aligned just right or something. It looks like the mounting holes for the switch are elongated, so I would assume it is adjustable, but I'm not sure what needs to be in what position to do it correctly.
I know the neutral safety switch on the bottom of the steering column is adjustable. As for the ignition switch im not sure. I would have to dig into myself and look aground.
@@willyworks52 I actually took it down, made sure it was adjusted in the same position yours is in, and put it back up. I replaced my lock cylinder because I think that was my main issue, but adjusting the same as yours seems to have done the trick. Thanks for posting the video!
I had problem with the adjustment. If the switch (in the mounting slots) is too far down the column, the switch will not engage the starter. If the switch is too high on the column, it will crank, start, and run fine - but it will not turn off. I had to apply my manual choke to kill the engine. It wants to be somewhere in between, probably varying from vehicle to vehicle.
What problems was it giving you? My 88 drags on starting on occasion battery, alternator and starter are good trying to find another cause to the problem.
The problem I had with the old switch was it would always giving power to the starter even when it wasn’t on the run position. One day I went out to start my truck. I turned the key over and the starter engaged the flexolatw and turned over the engine and it started with no problem. when I backed off the key to leave it on the run position like you normally would the starter disengaged like normal, but kept spinning inside the starter body itself. I should the truck off and I disconnected the battery and when I went to hook it back up, it did the same thing the starter was spinning a side of its body. It did it two times and fixed itself but I went ahead and replace the switch.
What symptoms indicated that the switch needed to be replaced?
After the truck started and I let off the key the start was still spinning inside the starter body. After replacing the switch I no longer had that issue.
Is there any way I can contact you ?
My warning Lights like glow Plug Light (because my Truck is a 6.5) and Parking Brake work. Rest of the warning Lights are not working. So Im planning on replacing this ignition Switch. See it coming Im gonna be frustrated If the ignition Switch was not at fault but still made the effort to change the stupid Switch...😑
Does anyone know if you change the steering column from a manual truck and put another steering column from a automatic one would affect. My truck won’t start
Yeah, you don't do that