Fantastic channel, clear explanation to all, neat and tidy builders, also fun! One of the best discoveried on TH-cam for me! well done, keep making videos please!
How did you fix the rafters into the steel. Also is the steel slightly lower then the rafters so the flat roof doesn't end up higher then the ridge once the furrings and osb boards go on?
We put a timber in the web of the steel, so that we have something to fix the rafters to, but we also put timbers on top of the steel as well so that the rafters are fixed into both. It also stops the furrings and OSB ending up lower than the ridge, like you mentioned. Effectively we boxed in the top of the steel with timber.
Hi - great videos. Masters at work. I just wondered why you used a steel ridge beam and why a wooden ridge wasn't sufficient. Also, can you post a link to the video where you replace the wooden support of this steel beam with steel supports. Many thanks
The steel was what was specified by the structural engineer...that's pretty standard these days for hip to gables of this size - there's too much deflection in wood over that span distance. We ended up sticking with the timber supports and bracing them, which the SE signed off. I have another video (more recent one) where we use steel posts instead.
Great video and top job. Liked the steel in three pieces. Only slight worry on the lift you had it resting on a 3x2 that didn't look strong enough. Also I'm guessing that temp frame screwed together rather than nailed which might not be strong enough without a forest of screws. (I don't like nails). Wondering if a couple of chain blocks could have made it safer with a pair of V lifting frames (with additional longitudinal V brace to a centre point). Did you have any BCO worries using your lifting frame? The 3x2 and screws aside it looked safer than others on TH-cam. Look forward to next one.
Cheers - I think you're right on most of that, but a lot of the time it's a function of speed, so we do the safest, quickest method possible...it's a balance with all these things (as well as using what you have to hand!). Glad you're enjoying the channel 💪🥳
Absolutely fantastic videos mate. So helpful for DIY & people who are interested in the process etc. Im planning on doing a dormer extension so this is great for me. Out of curiosity how did you conmect the rafters to the steel beam? Thanks
Cheers mate, that's great to hear! We put a timber in the web of the steel, and then cut the rafters at an angle so they sat flat against the face of that timber, before nailing them in place 👍 hope that helps!
Great video! Will the ridge beam be okay to be held up by the timber posts on the party wall end? Would have thought the ridge beam is inserted directly into the chimney breast to spread the load...
Good question, and one that I asked too! You can't insert a steel beam into a chimney breast, especially not one that works (likes ours do), because they're not strong enough/considered structurally supportive...you can get square, steel posts which the beam sits on, and is either bolted to the chimney, or seated on a padstone below. In our case, the structural engineer was happy with four 4x2's beneath on each side, seated on a steel plate which was above the spine wall of the house.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder This is a little surprising as chimneys are usually the only thing left standing after a serious gas explosion, and we've sadly had two in the uk recently. Were the timbers treated may I ask?
Good point mate, and not one I'm qualified to talk more about - I was simply repeating what the structural engineer told me! The timbers were C24 - so yes, fully treated 💪👍
Hey, I know exactly how heavy it is, and you can find out how heavy yours will be too. My beam is a 152x152x37 which basically means the top and bottom widths at 152mm each, and each meter of beam weighs 37kg. Our beam was 8 meters long when bolted together, so that weighed 296KG and then we had huge bolts to hold it together, which as was another 4KG, so 300KG in total! Between 3 blokes...hence why we made the frame and lifted it in sections.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Cheers buddy. I got told that a rule of thumb for a load bearing beam is 1/20 the width will be the size needed so I'll need a thicker one than yours but shorter. I guess yours is thinner as it's a ridge. I'll have to check the weights for the size I may need (I won't know for sure until engineer looks at it) do the spliced ones weigh a lot more than normal ones?
@@pompeyjim yes that's a good estimate, although I think a lot of structural engineers over-egg the calculations a fair bit for the sake of caution and to cover themselves. Our two floor steels were absolutely huge - way bigger than the ridge beam.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder what dimensions were the floor joist beams can I ask? And did you get the beams made in sections because 8m was too long to get as one beam, or because 8m beam was too hard to get up there as one piece? (must be more expensive to buy beams in engineered sections like that I presume)
Floor joists and roof joists are all 9x2's. The SE actually spec'd for a single length but the builder I worked with asked for it to be spliced and bolted so that it could actually be moving in place!
Hey, Yes they are! We built up a few course of bricks on top of the existing wall-plate, and then put steel plates underneath the timber columns to help support and spread the load.
@@eddienolan7129 that was for two (huge) steels in the floor. And the ridge steel. The lengths of the two floor steels were around 6.5m each, and they were 203 X 206mm
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thanks! I'm considering buying an old 3 storey, would need internal walls removed, all of them pretty much. Might be too expensive considering how much your beams cost
@@eddienolan7129 they may not all be load bearing...often just the spine wall and the outside walls are load bearing. We have a number of block walls internally which I thought were load bearing because they were made of blocks, but they are basically studs made out of blocks!
A party wall agreement is still needed because it's work being done with the adjoining wall. We made sure that was all signed and in place before starting the work.
Fantastic channel, clear explanation to all, neat and tidy builders, also fun! One of the best discoveried on TH-cam for me! well done, keep making videos please!
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the channel 😍
How did you fix the rafters into the steel. Also is the steel slightly lower then the rafters so the flat roof doesn't end up higher then the ridge once the furrings and osb boards go on?
We put a timber in the web of the steel, so that we have something to fix the rafters to, but we also put timbers on top of the steel as well so that the rafters are fixed into both. It also stops the furrings and OSB ending up lower than the ridge, like you mentioned. Effectively we boxed in the top of the steel with timber.
Hi - great videos. Masters at work. I just wondered why you used a steel ridge beam and why a wooden ridge wasn't sufficient. Also, can you post a link to the video where you replace the wooden support of this steel beam with steel supports. Many thanks
The steel was what was specified by the structural engineer...that's pretty standard these days for hip to gables of this size - there's too much deflection in wood over that span distance.
We ended up sticking with the timber supports and bracing them, which the SE signed off.
I have another video (more recent one) where we use steel posts instead.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Many thanks OBB - really appreciate your videos. Master craftsmen at work
Great video and top job. Liked the steel in three pieces. Only slight worry on the lift you had it resting on a 3x2 that didn't look strong enough. Also I'm guessing that temp frame screwed together rather than nailed which might not be strong enough without a forest of screws. (I don't like nails). Wondering if a couple of chain blocks could have made it safer with a pair of V lifting frames (with additional longitudinal V brace to a centre point). Did you have any BCO worries using your lifting frame? The 3x2 and screws aside it looked safer than others on TH-cam. Look forward to next one.
Cheers - I think you're right on most of that, but a lot of the time it's a function of speed, so we do the safest, quickest method possible...it's a balance with all these things (as well as using what you have to hand!).
Glad you're enjoying the channel 💪🥳
Absolutely fantastic videos mate. So helpful for DIY & people who are interested in the process etc. Im planning on doing a dormer extension so this is great for me. Out of curiosity how did you conmect the rafters to the steel beam? Thanks
Cheers mate, that's great to hear! We put a timber in the web of the steel, and then cut the rafters at an angle so they sat flat against the face of that timber, before nailing them in place 👍 hope that helps!
Great video! Will the ridge beam be okay to be held up by the timber posts on the party wall end? Would have thought the ridge beam is inserted directly into the chimney breast to spread the load...
Good question, and one that I asked too! You can't insert a steel beam into a chimney breast, especially not one that works (likes ours do), because they're not strong enough/considered structurally supportive...you can get square, steel posts which the beam sits on, and is either bolted to the chimney, or seated on a padstone below. In our case, the structural engineer was happy with four 4x2's beneath on each side, seated on a steel plate which was above the spine wall of the house.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder This is a little surprising as chimneys are usually the only thing left standing after a serious gas explosion, and we've sadly had two in the uk recently. Were the timbers treated may I ask?
Good point mate, and not one I'm qualified to talk more about - I was simply repeating what the structural engineer told me!
The timbers were C24 - so yes, fully treated 💪👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder No problem and nor am I. Those tin hat roofs are scary, yet impressive, structures to see go up. Thanks for the videos.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder you say four 4x2s seated on a steel plate. But how were those 4x2s connected to the steel plate?
Do you know approx how heavy that beam is? I'm gonna be needing one soon and I'm going over in my head how difficult it will be!
Hey, I know exactly how heavy it is, and you can find out how heavy yours will be too. My beam is a 152x152x37 which basically means the top and bottom widths at 152mm each, and each meter of beam weighs 37kg. Our beam was 8 meters long when bolted together, so that weighed 296KG and then we had huge bolts to hold it together, which as was another 4KG, so 300KG in total! Between 3 blokes...hence why we made the frame and lifted it in sections.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Cheers buddy. I got told that a rule of thumb for a load bearing beam is 1/20 the width will be the size needed so I'll need a thicker one than yours but shorter. I guess yours is thinner as it's a ridge. I'll have to check the weights for the size I may need (I won't know for sure until engineer looks at it) do the spliced ones weigh a lot more than normal ones?
@@pompeyjim yes that's a good estimate, although I think a lot of structural engineers over-egg the calculations a fair bit for the sake of caution and to cover themselves. Our two floor steels were absolutely huge - way bigger than the ridge beam.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder what dimensions were the floor joist beams can I ask? And did you get the beams made in sections because 8m was too long to get as one beam, or because 8m beam was too hard to get up there as one piece? (must be more expensive to buy beams in engineered sections like that I presume)
Floor joists and roof joists are all 9x2's. The SE actually spec'd for a single length but the builder I worked with asked for it to be spliced and bolted so that it could actually be moving in place!
Also, are the timber columns/posts that hold up the beam resting on the inner brick leaf of the wall?
Hey, Yes they are! We built up a few course of bricks on top of the existing wall-plate, and then put steel plates underneath the timber columns to help support and spread the load.
love to see the temp works design for the supporting timber structure, all done by hand with a scaffold overhead, mechanical would have been better
Hey, great to see the steels going in, can I ask how much the steel was?
Cheers, glad you enjoyed the video! The Steels cost £2,500 including delivery (we're in S.E London) MAH Steel
@@OfficeBoyBuilder was that for just one ridge beam and one floor beam only?
@@eddienolan7129 that was for two (huge) steels in the floor. And the ridge steel. The lengths of the two floor steels were around 6.5m each, and they were 203 X 206mm
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thanks! I'm considering buying an old 3 storey, would need internal walls removed, all of them pretty much. Might be too expensive considering how much your beams cost
@@eddienolan7129 they may not all be load bearing...often just the spine wall and the outside walls are load bearing.
We have a number of block walls internally which I thought were load bearing because they were made of blocks, but they are basically studs made out of blocks!
Does this means they don't need a party wall agreement 🤔
A party wall agreement is still needed because it's work being done with the adjoining wall. We made sure that was all signed and in place before starting the work.