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Alright, I am assuming this video only gets 3,655 views is just because it is hot from the oven; published on Nov 7th and I am watching it at 12:00 AM on Nov 8th. I really like and appreciate the effort you do to help us understand. Stay tuned.
@Training Hands Academy Hi, Josh. I tried to apply the Pythagorean Theorem while following along when you do the sample of Span of 4 foot, Unit run of 12 inches, Unite rise of 7 inches. √193 I got 13.89 inches for the Unit Length (something I learned from the previous video.) And you would need 2 units of 13.89 inches that would be 27.78 inch/2.315 ft for the length of the rafter? I am using 2 x 4 as the rafters, and it's way off when I try to use the framing square to measure 12 inches as one unit for my Span of 126 ft 5/8inch. Any advice will be highly appreciated.
I wish I could post a photo to this comment because your explanation was spot on and I have never done rafters as easy as you have explained in this video. The step off method worked perfectly and I was able to layout and build my Dutch gable roof with ease and NO gaps! 24' rafters were fun by myself but when they fit perfectly, it helps. Thank you so much for this video and I hope your videos help others.
As a novice with some tools and big dreams I am loving your videos, so perfectly explained…and I do appreciate that you are also giving measurements in cm’s.
Watching this from the uk , this was a textbook perfect explanation, the best I've seen on you tube , we need you here to show the younger generation , we have a massive skills shortage
i'm an old dude and this stuff is great, i'm trying to teach my kids this and the way i was taught is coming across like a foreign language to them . . . i found your channel and just start throwing videos at them via discord and they're catching right up . . . i didn't appreciate how difficult it was teaching younger folks practical skills, they're all just wired differently than my generation or those whom taught me. . .so thanks, not only does this give me refreshers (not touched a tool for the better part of 20 yrs and definitely haven't played with some of the power tools and slick stuff you guys got today) but it also helps with teaching these younger kids i have 'working' with me some of the basics that i've had difficultly getting across!
This is a popular and informative video series. The hands on of different methods is why I hope you continue the series. (Flying gable, bird's peak, Dutch kick, Truncated hip, Jerkinhead, Turret, Mansard, etc)
Brilliant! Thanks for that. Been a chippy for about five years now but not had the chance to get on roofing much even though I'm itching to. I've just got to learn it and be able to do it. I've been practicing with my own mock ups and thanks to people like you, its all starting to fall into place. Cheers
Thank you for this video. It's been about 30 years since I've cut rafters and I just needed a little brushing up and this really helped. And it will be also very good for beginners. Thank you so much. We used to lay ours out on the floor and get the measurements.
Very well explained, although I always used the Pythagorean -Theorem method, one hundred percent accurate every time. You're a geat teacher. I'm very old, retired and don't have to think about those things anymore. I'm glad a teacher such as you are good enough to present things correctly on TH-cam.....not like those that think they know but offer misinformation! Thanks for the video!
Your V'Blogs are fun...brings back a lot of memories...Most of all....Re-learning. Although; the Framing Sq. "jigs"....I always knew those as SQ'Dawgs or just "Dogs"....That was from the Old timers I worked with they called them 'Dawgs'. We still use their lexicon when framing...Young guys look at us like we're from another planet. Those Old Timers, eventually got me using a wicked heavy Skil™ Worm-Drive saw.
Great video! At about 6:56 in the video when you measured over 4 inches from the heel line to mark for the seat cut, did you measure from the 3 inch mark to the 7 inch mark on the framing square? How did you know to measure from the 3 to the 7? Because if you slid the square from two other numbered points, say 2 inch to 6 inch, it would make the angle different, right? Do you just keep the angled seat cut under the third of the board rule? Am I overthinking this, ha? I really enjoy all of your videos.
Hello. Yes, the camera angle is making the numbers look strange. I used the scale on the square to get 4 inches. If this goes over or under a little (in this case) it doesn't really change much. If you go a little more, the rafter will sit down further, stick over the plate more on the inside, and the birds mouth gets a little closer to the one third rule line. If you go less, it does just the opposite. Once you start building it will all make much more sense. Thank you for the comment my friend.
Thanks for making the videos on measuring rafters. The rafters for my chicken coop and outhouse were wonky due miscalculations (I calculated lengths with what I remembered of HS trig) and my lack of understanding of how to use of a framing square (I used a speed square despite having a framing square). I am building a cabin this summer and the idea of cutting rafters had me a bit nervous, however I feel more confident after watching your videos. I also was unaware of stair gauges, let alone of Squijig until your videos. I've ordered a pair to use with the framing square and to use for ripping lumber with the skill saw. Thanks again for creating these videos and sharing them.
Another great rafter video! I like how you’ve slowed down your explanations and made the videos a bit longer, I really like this as I find it easier to understand
One question: @6:52 you say to measure over, from the heel line, 4 inches to mark the seat cut. But I see 5 inches (on the inside) or 6 3/4 (on the outside). What am I missing? Is the 4 inches measured from something else?
So at 6:50 he said to measure over 4" to cut out the birds mouth, but what measurement is he doing there? I don't see how that's 4" he just stop on some random measurement from the look on my screen , what am I missing here?
At 6:45 where you measure the width of the stud/wall sheathing you appear to be measuring next to a completed rafter. The birdsmouth on that rafter doesn't appear to conform with your marking method. During marking, the back edge of the birdsmouth is the bottom of the plumb line. In the image (referenced above), the back of the birdsmouth doesn't use the plumbline at that site. Am I missing something?
Really appreciated clear explanation, especially without meaningless background music,.. one question is, why did you determine fascia cut at 6.5' ? That reasoning would have been helpful
The overhang amount and soffit cut numbers are almost always different for every roof, and it really comes down to design, preference, and/or what type of trim you’ll be using. Therefore, the 6.5" in this video is just an example. Hope that helps.
Your videos are great I learned something new I also watched your videos about how to build a stair thanks for sharing your knowledge I’m sure it will help me 👍
Take a look at IRC code R802.7 and Figure R802.7.1.1 It shows you can't exceed 1/4 depth. I have always seen the 1/3 rule but I know that at least since 2018 the code specifies 1/4. It is a ridiculous requirement. @@TrainingHandsAcademy
Wow you did a really good job of making this complicated, I just call it pitch which is basically the down grade of the rafter in a 12 inch run. Like a 5, 12 pitch would drop 5 inches in a 12 inch run. And yes I use the square just this way but you complicated it with all the other terms.
Everything was going great until I got completely lost in your video with the birds mouth layout at 6:54 and the overhang layout at 8:48. Because at 6:54 you mentioned to mark at the bottom of the square at 4” but it appears you marked at 6-3/4” and drew your line. Also, for the overhang layout, you mentioned to mark at 6-1/2” mark but it appeared you marked it at the 5-3/4” line. Any clarity to this? Thank you.
At 6:54 I used the scale at the bottom to help me measure over 4" from the heel line. It didn't lay out perfectly on the scale that's why you don't see it measure exactly 4"... but that line is 4". At 8:48 the 6 1/2 mark was already marked by the previous step so all I did was to move the square over until it lined up with that mark, and drew the soffit cut line (I didn't use the scale this time) Hope that helps.
Hey Steve! The overhang amount and soffit cut numbers are almost always different for every roof, and it really comes down to design, preference, and/or what type of trim you’ll be using. Therefore, the 6.5" in this video is just an example. Hope that helps.
Thanks for this easy to understand tutorial. How would you calculate the height and placement of the ridge board to prepare for rafter installation? Thanks
Very informative, thanks. One question though: Wouldn’t the heel cut length affect how the top of the rafter meets the ridge board? So if I cut the seat of the birds mouth shorter than the top plate (plus sheathing) would that cause the top of the rafter to be higher than the ridge board?
You are right. As far as I understand it, cutting the bird's mouth seat shorter means the heel cut won't be as deep making the rafter higher; alternately cutting the bird's mouth longer means the heel cut will be deeper making the rafter lower. This will affect the ''height above plate'' and ''total roof height'' and of course the ridge board height which Josh talks about starting at 5:34 in his first video on rafters, ''Basic Equations For Roof Framing'' th-cam.com/video/oGlYpFb3Hds/w-d-xo.html
Amazing videos, came across your channel after I was browsing for hours in search for an answer. I took pen and paper and took notes from this one video, but I struggle with a part so here it goes my question: I have a total run of 200 cms (6.56 feet). Now the unit run is 12" or 30,5 cms always. If I lay out 2 full units (at 7" and 12" like you did) I end up with a truly short rafter, and nowhere closer to the total run of 200 cms. What am I missing as I can't figure it out at all after spending 2 full hours trying to make it work? All the best! A beginner
Hello! It looks like you're only stepping off 2 full units (which was from my 2-foot run example), but your actual run is 6.56 feet. You need to step off 6 full units and then an additional 0.56 units to calculate your diagonal. If I’m understanding your question correctly, this should work." Let me know if you'd like further clarification or adjustments
Prety simple and clear. Thanks for sharing the basics. I gave you a well deserved "like" and I subscribe myself as One of your apprentice. Best regards.
for rafters ten feet long resting on 2x4 wall studs what spacing do u suggest and what size lumber is best? The roof will be sheeting and shingle. Nice video, short and to the point thank you
Great video thank you I’m going to be building a small sugar shack this weekend and that’s helpful. My one question is you measured the wall plus the sheathing which was 4 inches but you never marked the board at 4 inches. In order to draw the second line of the birds mouth. Do you just measure that first line up the board at 4 inches and put your square on it to draw the birds mouth second line? Thank you.
Awesome video. The most clearest explanation I have seen. Looking forward to watching other videos you have. Can you tell me why you go down 6.5"for the facial board?
I am getting ready to make a lean to car port and this has been so helpful. My lumber however is bloody huge and heavy. The board that will go onto the wall is 6 metres long and 20cm x 6cm. My rafters are 4 metres long and also 20cm x 6cm. I have 6 rafters.
The overhang amount and soffit cut numbers are almost always different for every roof, and it really comes down to design, preference, and/or what type of trim you’ll be using. Therefore, the 6.5" in this video is just an example. Hope that helps.
How do you support a ridge board with a 28' span while you begin to install rafters? Also when adding an addition to a house, ex- a garage being added onto a house, can you use the top plate of the wall of the house to support the ends of the rafters on the garage.? Good instruction in your videos by the way.
I use a long 2x4 with two shorter pieces of 2x material nailed to each side of it on one end... which creates a pocket for the ridge to sit in. Make sure the other end is nailed down to the deck and cross braced. Yes, you can use the top plates of the wall to support the ends of rafters.
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the absolute easiest instructions on cutting a birdsmouth I've ever seen!
Thanks for the feedback :)
I really love the way Training Hands Academy teach, very "Theoretically"!!! I APPROVE!!!!!
Wow, thanks!
Alright, I am assuming this video only gets 3,655 views is just because it is hot from the oven; published on Nov 7th and I am watching it at 12:00 AM on Nov 8th. I really like and appreciate the effort you do to help us understand. Stay tuned.
@Training Hands Academy Hi, Josh. I tried to apply the Pythagorean Theorem while following along when you do the sample of Span of 4 foot, Unit run of 12 inches, Unite rise of 7 inches. √193 I got 13.89 inches for the Unit Length (something I learned from the previous video.) And you would need 2 units of 13.89 inches that would be 27.78 inch/2.315 ft for the length of the rafter? I am using 2 x 4 as the rafters, and it's way off when I try to use the framing square to measure 12 inches as one unit for my Span of 126 ft 5/8inch. Any advice will be highly appreciated.
I wish I could post a photo to this comment because your explanation was spot on and I have never done rafters as easy as you have explained in this video. The step off method worked perfectly and I was able to layout and build my Dutch gable roof with ease and NO gaps! 24' rafters were fun by myself but when they fit perfectly, it helps. Thank you so much for this video and I hope your videos help others.
If you are on IG you can send me one. I'm so happy that you had a great experience framing! Nice work!
Dude. You just made it so easy... People trying to teach me really don't know how to break it down like you did. Those jigs are very useful as well
Glad it helped Andrew. Those jigs are awesome, and Louis from Squijig is a really cool dude as well.
Thanks!
Wow, thank you very much Chris!
best video ever explaining this process - you are a rock star my friend!
Much appreciated! If you want to support my work, please drop some more comments on my other videos! This helps to wake up the YT algorithms. :)
As a novice with some tools and big dreams I am loving your videos, so perfectly explained…and I do appreciate that you are also giving measurements in cm’s.
Awesome! Keep dreaming and creating!
Watching this from the uk , this was a textbook perfect explanation, the best I've seen on you tube , we need you here to show the younger generation , we have a massive skills shortage
Thank you David. We are incredibly short here as well. Thanks for watching and sharing.
Best video I’ve seen on this so far. Great job
Thanks for the comment.
i'm an old dude and this stuff is great, i'm trying to teach my kids this and the way i was taught is coming across like a foreign language to them . . . i found your channel and just start throwing videos at them via discord and they're catching right up . . . i didn't appreciate how difficult it was teaching younger folks practical skills, they're all just wired differently than my generation or those whom taught me. . .so thanks, not only does this give me refreshers (not touched a tool for the better part of 20 yrs and definitely haven't played with some of the power tools and slick stuff you guys got today) but it also helps with teaching these younger kids i have 'working' with me some of the basics that i've had difficultly getting across!
Thank you for sharing this with me!
Best explanation I've seen. No one else could seem to help me with the odd numbers in my project.
My search is finally over.
SUBSCRIBED
So glad you found this video!
Gotta admit this was good. I'm planning a shed build and have watched several "how to build rafters" videos. This makes the clearest method for me.
Great to hear. Reach out if you need help... I'm always around.
This is a popular and informative video series. The hands on of different methods is why I hope you continue the series. (Flying gable, bird's peak, Dutch kick, Truncated hip, Jerkinhead, Turret, Mansard, etc)
Thanks for the comment, but I think those roofs are above my skill set. :)
Brilliant! Thanks for that. Been a chippy for about five years now but not had the chance to get on roofing much even though I'm itching to. I've just got to learn it and be able to do it. I've been practicing with my own mock ups and thanks to people like you, its all starting to fall into place. Cheers
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing a bit of your story with me!
Thank you for this video. It's been about 30 years since I've cut rafters and I just needed a little brushing up and this really helped. And it will be also very good for beginners. Thank you so much. We used to lay ours out on the floor and get the measurements.
When I first started building (about 25 years ago) I would lay them out on the floor too. Thanks for the comment.
Very good explications.
God bless your ministries !
Greatings from Romania !
Thank you for the blessings... it really means a lot.
Very well explained, although I always used the Pythagorean -Theorem method, one hundred percent accurate every time.
You're a geat teacher. I'm very old, retired and don't have to think about those things anymore. I'm glad a teacher such as you are good enough to present things correctly on TH-cam.....not like those that think they know but offer misinformation!
Thanks for the video!
Thank you for the comment. :)
A clear and easy to understand explanation of the rafter layout. Thanks for your efforts
Thanks for watching!
Nice to see this method after over 30 years since I've used it
My favorite method for sure!
This is by far the best video I have seen explaining the step off method. I finally understand it, thank you
Great to hear!
professional teacher. easily understood.
You're very kind Joe!
Most clear and practical explanation I have seen!!!!
Best video I’ve seen to explain this. Thank you!
Wow, thanks!
Your visual aid graphics are just as good as your explanation. Well done
Thanks for watching!
Unbelievably So SO simple to learn and understand .. Thanks for helping .I have 58 Twelve foot long Two by sixes. to layout ..
Thanks for the very easy to understand instructions! Well done.
Glad you enjoyed it Jim!
Man, you're amazing!
You really do have a talent you explain serious things greatly and simply (enough). Great video. Thank you.
You are very kind. Thank you.
@@TrainingHandsAcademy
++
1
Thanks, very helpful and awesome helper, my daughter loves helping me with projects.
You are a good teacher this video help a lot of people including me thank you
Thank you for taking the time to show us. 👍
Thank you for watching and sharing.
Great video!!! Now we need one assembling the entire roof to the walls. Thank you.
Your V'Blogs are fun...brings back a lot of memories...Most of all....Re-learning. Although; the Framing Sq. "jigs"....I always knew those as SQ'Dawgs or just "Dogs"....That was from the Old timers I worked with they called them 'Dawgs'. We still use their lexicon when framing...Young guys look at us like we're from another planet. Those Old Timers, eventually got me using a wicked heavy Skil™ Worm-Drive saw.
That's awesome... thanks for commenting Jeff!
Great video! At about 6:56 in the video when you measured over 4 inches from the heel line to mark for the seat cut, did you measure from the 3 inch mark to the 7 inch mark on the framing square? How did you know to measure from the 3 to the 7? Because if you slid the square from two other numbered points, say 2 inch to 6 inch, it would make the angle different, right? Do you just keep the angled seat cut under the third of the board rule? Am I overthinking this, ha? I really enjoy all of your videos.
Hello. Yes, the camera angle is making the numbers look strange. I used the scale on the square to get 4 inches. If this goes over or under a little (in this case) it doesn't really change much. If you go a little more, the rafter will sit down further, stick over the plate more on the inside, and the birds mouth gets a little closer to the one third rule line. If you go less, it does just the opposite. Once you start building it will all make much more sense. Thank you for the comment my friend.
Josh, this was a great explanation and demonstration. Thanks!
Thanks buddy!
What a great video. You do a great job explaining every detail. Thanks for your time.
I enjoy all of your videos.
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. God bless you my friend.
This method really help me understand it
Glad to hear
Thank you!! Excellent presentation and very clear instruction. I'll be building my roof tomorrow so this really helped me.
Good luck and have fun!
Awesome! It makes me confident I can be a carpenter.
Of course you can! Now go build something! :)
Sir, you are awesome in your explanation! You are easy to understand and listen to, thank you.
So nice of you Robert. Thx
Thanks for making the videos on measuring rafters. The rafters for my chicken coop and outhouse were wonky due miscalculations (I calculated lengths with what I remembered of HS trig) and my lack of understanding of how to use of a framing square (I used a speed square despite having a framing square). I am building a cabin this summer and the idea of cutting rafters had me a bit nervous, however I feel more confident after watching your videos. I also was unaware of stair gauges, let alone of Squijig until your videos. I've ordered a pair to use with the framing square and to use for ripping lumber with the skill saw. Thanks again for creating these videos and sharing them.
Let me know how it goes and/or if you have questions once you start building. Thanks for the comment David!
Another great rafter video! I like how you’ve slowed down your explanations and made the videos a bit longer, I really like this as I find it easier to understand
I thought it was time for a slower rafter video... glad you like it.
How did you get the 6"
@@javierguzman6735 Did I use 6" in this video?
@@javierguzman6735 born with it??.
Nice to see Krist Novoselic again!
Amazing! Thank you for sharing! So glad to find your channel. Subscribed!
Thanks for the comment! Be sure to watch my other rafters videos to learn different methods for calculating rafters.
Very well explained Josh. Probably the easier way to do rafters and most of the time easier is best.
Thanks Nigel!
Thanks for sharing this video with us, your teaching is easy to understand..Much appreciated
You are very welcome
absolutely brilliant mate
One question: @6:52 you say to measure over, from the heel line, 4 inches to mark the seat cut. But I see 5 inches (on the inside) or 6 3/4 (on the outside).
What am I missing? Is the 4 inches measured from something else?
Brilliant video thanks for teaching me new skills
So at 6:50 he said to measure over 4" to cut out the birds mouth, but what measurement is he doing there? I don't see how that's 4" he just stop on some random measurement from the look on my screen , what am I missing here?
Hi, Josh here. It's 4"... just a bad camera angle.
@@TrainingHandsAcademy ok thanks, I thought that might have been it but wasn't sure.
Good job my friend I want to see more videos thank you so much
Working on it my friend. Any video ideas you'd like to share?
Awesome!!! Thank you, please keep 'em coming
Nice video very well explained.
Thank you for laying out the run
You are a excellent teacher Sir, thanks a lot blessings
Thank you for the blessings... truly, thank you.
thank you this was very helpful. I will show you when i'm
done
Oh please do! Email me or Instagram.
Great explanation of the stepping off method! Thank you for sharing and you have gained a new subscription 👍🏽
At 6:45 where you measure the width of the stud/wall sheathing you appear to be measuring next to a completed rafter. The birdsmouth on that rafter doesn't appear to conform with your marking method. During marking, the back edge of the birdsmouth is the bottom of the plumb line. In the image (referenced above), the back of the birdsmouth doesn't use the plumbline at that site. Am I missing something?
Really appreciated clear explanation, especially without meaningless background music,.. one question is, why did you determine fascia cut at 6.5' ? That reasoning would have been helpful
The overhang amount and soffit cut numbers are almost always different for every roof, and it really comes down to design, preference, and/or what type of trim you’ll be using. Therefore, the 6.5" in this video is just an example. Hope that helps.
Thanks from Finland.. Easy explained..
Thanks for the comment.
Your videos are great I learned something new I also watched your videos about how to build a stair thanks for sharing your knowledge I’m sure it will help me 👍
Great explanation!
This is gonna help me a lot in my roof build thank you
These videos are excellent. Extremely helpful.
Eres el único. U R the best. 👍👍😍😍
You're very kind. Thank you.
Teaching Trade school, used your video. It is fantastic!
Awesome!!
Thanks dude for explaining this in an easy to understand and follow 👍
My pleasure!
Perfect explanation. Thank you
You are welcome!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Take a look at IRC code R802.7 and Figure R802.7.1.1 It shows you can't exceed 1/4 depth. I have always seen the 1/3 rule but I know that at least since 2018 the code specifies 1/4. It is a ridiculous requirement. @@TrainingHandsAcademy
Very good teacher you are very skillful in explaining to us,I understand brother thanks
I have the dream of learning, Greetings from Mexico. And thanks for your videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wow you did a really good job of making this complicated, I just call it pitch which is basically the down grade of the rafter in a 12 inch run. Like a 5, 12 pitch would drop 5 inches in a 12 inch run. And yes I use the square just this way but you complicated it with all the other terms.
Straight forward and easy to follow.
Good to hear! Thanks for watching.
Everything was going great until I got completely lost in your video with the birds mouth layout at 6:54 and the overhang layout at 8:48. Because at 6:54 you mentioned to mark at the bottom of the square at 4” but it appears you marked at 6-3/4” and drew your line. Also, for the overhang layout, you mentioned to mark at 6-1/2” mark but it appeared you marked it at the 5-3/4” line. Any clarity to this? Thank you.
At 6:54 I used the scale at the bottom to help me measure over 4" from the heel line. It didn't lay out perfectly on the scale that's why you don't see it measure exactly 4"... but that line is 4". At 8:48 the 6 1/2 mark was already marked by the previous step so all I did was to move the square over until it lined up with that mark, and drew the soffit cut line (I didn't use the scale this time) Hope that helps.
@@TrainingHandsAcademy could I just measure over the 4” for the seat cut? (Ie top plate + sheathing) etc
@@mikewinter87 Yes
@@TrainingHandsAcademy thank you very much - love your videos and thank you for your response. I appreciate your time.
At 8:37 you say you have to mesure down at 6,5 inches, where do you get that mesure ? Thanks in advance !
Hey Steve! The overhang amount and soffit cut numbers are almost always different for every roof, and it really comes down to design, preference, and/or what type of trim you’ll be using. Therefore, the 6.5" in this video is just an example. Hope that helps.
Thanks a lot it helps for sure ! I plan to build a covered carport/ patio using rafters, I’m glad to know now how to measure it up !
@@Joe-ip2ky Email me if you have more questions once you start building.
Thanks for this easy to understand tutorial. How would you calculate the height and placement of the ridge board to prepare for rafter installation? Thanks
Thanks for the comment. Have you seen this video. th-cam.com/video/AVzQznTCvCw/w-d-xo.html
@@TrainingHandsAcademy Thanks!
Thank you, great video and really informative.
Thanks Josh. You make the Step-off Method so easy. I have always wondered how they do that. Will contact you if I get stuck. John
Sounds great John!
Very informative, thanks. One question though: Wouldn’t the heel cut length affect how the top of the rafter meets the ridge board? So if I cut the seat of the birds mouth shorter than the top plate (plus sheathing) would that cause the top of the rafter to be higher than the ridge board?
You are right. As far as I understand it, cutting the bird's mouth seat shorter means the heel cut won't be as deep making the rafter higher; alternately cutting the bird's mouth longer means the heel cut will be deeper making the rafter lower.
This will affect the ''height above plate'' and ''total roof height'' and of course the ridge board height which Josh talks about starting at 5:34 in his first video on rafters, ''Basic Equations For Roof Framing''
th-cam.com/video/oGlYpFb3Hds/w-d-xo.html
Amazing, please do Shorts, I’d love to see your videos in my feed
High quality and precise 🙏
Thanks for the simple instructions.
Would you be able to provide guidance on how to install ridge board and pole?
Sure email me. josh@traininghandsacademy.com
@@TrainingHandsAcademy Thanks a lot Josh
Thank you for this video you are a very good teacher your I learn something. New 🆕
I have seen these kind of tutorials and I'm always thinking "this is pure magic"
Framing is magic for sure.
Like always real useful videos tnks for your time
My pleasure
Amazing videos, came across your channel after I was browsing for hours in search for an answer. I took pen and paper and took notes from this one video, but I struggle with a part so here it goes my question:
I have a total run of 200 cms (6.56 feet). Now the unit run is 12" or 30,5 cms always. If I lay out 2 full units (at 7" and 12" like you did) I end up with a truly short rafter, and nowhere closer to the total run of 200 cms. What am I missing as I can't figure it out at all after spending 2 full hours trying to make it work?
All the best!
A beginner
Hello! It looks like you're only stepping off 2 full units (which was from my 2-foot run example), but your actual run is 6.56 feet. You need to step off 6 full units and then an additional 0.56 units to calculate your diagonal. If I’m understanding your question correctly, this should work."
Let me know if you'd like further clarification or adjustments
Prety simple and clear. Thanks for sharing the basics. I gave you a well deserved "like" and I subscribe myself as One of your apprentice. Best regards.
Thanks for the sub!
Nice! This one helped me out, I will definitely try tomorrow. My span is 37.5 inches. Using a 9 on the common rafter scale. I hope I get it this time
Let me know how it goes.
Great, tank you fron Brazil !
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching.
for rafters ten feet long resting on 2x4 wall studs what spacing do u suggest and what size lumber is best? The roof will be sheeting and shingle. Nice video, short and to the point thank you
Thanks. Fantastic videos.
Much appreciated! If you want to support my work, please drop some more comments on my other videos! This helps to wake up the YT algorithms. :)
Great video thank you I’m going to be building a small sugar shack this weekend and that’s helpful. My one question is you measured the wall plus the sheathing which was 4 inches but you never marked the board at 4 inches. In order to draw the second line of the birds mouth. Do you just measure that first line up the board at 4 inches and put your square on it to draw the birds mouth second line? Thank you.
Awesome video. The most clearest explanation I have seen. Looking forward to watching other videos you have. Can you tell me why you go down 6.5"for the facial board?
It's just an example number. Each roof is completely different, different trim, pitch, etc. I need to make a video about this. Thanks for asking.
I am getting ready to make a lean to car port and this has been so helpful. My lumber however is bloody huge and heavy. The board that will go onto the wall is 6 metres long and 20cm x 6cm. My rafters are 4 metres long and also 20cm x 6cm. I have 6 rafters.
Terrific video, very well explained and clear. I have one question. Where did you get the 6.5" measurement for your soffit facia cut?
The overhang amount and soffit cut numbers are almost always different for every roof, and it really comes down to design, preference, and/or what type of trim you’ll be using. Therefore, the 6.5" in this video is just an example. Hope that helps.
I was gonna ask the same question, maybe the size of the facia ??
Presumably 6.5” was the width of the sub fascia stock chosen, so if for example you were using a 2x6 for your sub fascia, you’d use 5.5”.
How do you support a ridge board with a 28' span while you begin to install rafters? Also when adding an addition to a house, ex- a garage being added onto a house, can you use the top plate of the wall of the house to support the ends of the rafters on the garage.? Good instruction in your videos by the way.
I use a long 2x4 with two shorter pieces of 2x material nailed to each side of it on one end... which creates a pocket for the ridge to sit in. Make sure the other end is nailed down to the deck and cross braced. Yes, you can use the top plates of the wall to support the ends of rafters.
Excellent Stuff - I watched a lot of rafter vids - but this is the first that totally makes sense - I reckon I'm good to go - Thanking you :)
Great video. Thanks for going the extra mile and adding the metric measurements, for us imperial impaired :-D
You bet!
I am looking to build a bay window roof. Do you have any videos on that?
I don't sorry