How to Install a Steel Beam in Your Loft: A Step-by-Step Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- #steel_beam_installation #office_boy_builder #diy
In this video, we'll show you how to install a steel beam in your loft as part of a renovation project. Adding a steel beam is essential for providing additional structural support and can help create a more open and spacious feel in your home. We'll take you through the step-by-step process of installing the beam, including preparing the area, lifting the beam into place, and securing it properly. We'll also provide helpful tips on safety, tools needed, and important considerations to keep in mind. Whether you're a DIY enthusiast or a professional contractor, this video will give you the knowledge and confidence you need to successfully install a steel beam in your loft.
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nice one buil dability wise lovely .Office Builder the legend
thanks very well detail has been given
Excellent video.
Hi for a Loft conversion how much does you charge for installing the steel beams please...Thanks
Wow. So many questions come to mind when I see this “beam” installation. Load bearing on brick? No washers on the bolts? , etc….
Yes and it bears just 5cm on brick, in case of earthquake you will have tons of steel on your head.
Great work. I have used dowels as well to move heavy stuff and it is magically easier.
I do have a question:
Is there a series of load-bearing columns beneath the I-beam ?
Thanks! It's crazy how rolling a weight makes it seem lighter than lifting it.
The SE didn't specify columns beneath the I-Beams, they are resting on the outer, structural walls of the building, which are 9 inches thick, so it's supposed that they are strong enough to bear the load.
The steel beam splice should be moment connection not shear connection, it will work as a simple joint which quite dangerous.
By this do you mean the bolt connection should be coming through the top of the beam vertically with a slice plate rather than what they've done here with bolts going through horizontally?
@@wanderer10k Moment - Flange, Shear - Web
Cracking job nice clean hackout! One observation no washers just bolts n nuts otherwise PUKKA JOB JOHN!👍
IF YOU COULD ANSWER A Q FOR ME? TECHSCREWS OR BOLTS TO SECURE TIMBER TO IBEAM(STEEL) FOR FLOORING JOIST HANGING?
You can use either - presumably your I-beam has already been drilled to provide holes for the techscrews to go through.
No washers only on adjustable slotted holes
Hello nice video, I have a question though... did you fill the hole with concrete of did you leave the beam sitting on the steel plate just like that? Thx!
We bricked up around the gap using the originals bricks, sand and cement 👍💪
Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful.
I’m interested in knowing the size and length of this beam?
I know all builds are different, but, mine has been specced with mid span support. It’s only 7m long so probably no longer than your one.
Also, did you bed the outside wall padstone onto the wall plate?
I believe the overall length was 8m (cut into 3 sections) and it was 203x203x52. Hope that helps mate!
We sat the steel beam onto large steel plates which were on a bed of cement on the wall plate. We didn't actually use padstones.
Thank you. Did this one take the weight of a dormer as well as the floor?
The blokes telling me if I don’t want it to have midspan support it will have to be a steel well over 300mm! I think he thinks we’re building a bridge!
Yes this spanned 8m and took the weight of the floor and the mini stud wall that supported the roof slightly. Ours was spliced into 3, but you can get them as one piece. 8m is about the limit before there's too much deflection that requires a really big chunk of steel.
Should splice plates also be installed on top and bottom of the beam at the connection?
Not that I'm aware of - only at the bottom. That was all that our structural engineer specified...that being said, every SE is different and will specify what they feel is safest/appropriate
how come there is no thread lock or lock washers on the bolts used to join the steels, and what torque should they be at
Lets hope they dont live by a motor way with all them vibrations😂
Hi obb, I'm not far away from ordering steel for my rear dormer conversion, I dont ever see how people fireproof the steels though. Did you just plasterboard the walls around them and use that as fire protection. Thanks
Fireproofing the steel in the roof is easy enough because of the plasterboard and skim over the top...it's not something I've noticed/considered within the floor space! Certainly it didn't come up in my conversation with the building inspector when they visited our site.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks for swift reply, I thought it was like that. I've over boarded the ceiling below years ago and the beams will be encased with the walls, so sounds like I should be fine.
Keep the vids coming 😊
Bloody Brilliant, Thank you.
Cheers mate!
Hi Guys all good stuff but I would rather you had primed the plates as you have the beams
Nice, thank you. What was your steel span and I beam dims?
I believe it was 203x203x46 steel, and the span was about 6.5 meters (I think!)
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks a lot.
hi, so if the wall was a single width breeze block,would the beam have to sit over the entire width of the block? basically knocking a whole into next doors loft and would you require access into next door to render/brick up after? thanks
That's a really tough question, and it really depends on the neighbors and party wall agreement. I think that's entirely possible, but you could also pocket out as much depth as required by the structural engineer to comply with their specifications.
the wall between should be double brick skinned. mine was but mine is a new build so don't know if old builds are the same
Hi I wanted to find how much it costs?
Question. I’m not a builder just like DIY. Why do you use steel to put the beam in and not a pad stone?
Great question! The simple answer is because the Structural Engineer specified it. If they had requested a concrete padstone, that's what we would have used.
easier to install probably or 440x 100x215dp padstone was not adequate to distribute the the load.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Hello buddy, did you have to bed the steel plate on some muck or just sit the plate in the wall?
Why didn't you remove the old ceiling joists before putting that in.
Hi , I’m planning to do my house and I hired structural engineer . Do I need architect as well ?
If you're happy with the plans and designs then you don't need an Architect, however they are incredibly helpful for ensuring that your design and build process complies with building regulations, specifically ones regarding sound proofing, fire regs, heating & insulation etc.
why there are not any washers?
How come no lock washers on the bolts?
I wondered that...they weren't specified, and the steel company didn't supply them. Also the building inspector didn't mention them or ask why they weren't in, so they can't have been 100% necessary (although probably better to have than not!)
What plate or thing did you put under the steel beam
We used a big steel plate - it was 20mm thick and around 500mm long by 100mm wide.
What span overall? Beam does not look very deep. Great video and detail.
The span was around 8.5m - the full width of the house.
can anyone pls confirm wt size of this steel is as we goin to do our dormer??
You'll need to get a structural engineer to confirm that mate, the size of the steel is only one aspect... you'll need them to specify whether it can be spliced into sections or not, and also the weight per meter, which denotes the strength of the steel...while there are similarities between houses, each one could need a slightly different specification.
My steels are getting installed in about 2/3 weeks!
Covid 19 put everything back
Very exciting stage! Glad to hear you're able to keep moving forward with it. Best of luck with the whole thing!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks mate.
Did you have the metal spreader plate welded to the steel beam or does it just sit on top of it with no welding needed?
@@markrowley9801 it just sat on top. No welding or bolting in place...
@@OfficeBoyBuilder ok buddy thank you
@@OfficeBoyBuilder 2 x floor steel beams in!....woop woop, we got progress at last........ridge beam will be done in about 4/5 weeks.............quick question for you, what size timber did you use for the wall uprights that support the rafters?
Why didn't you opt for a single long rsj instead of three separate rsjs?
That's what was specified but it is very hard to get that sort of length steel into the building safely and without a crane... because of the road/neighbors/BT Cable outside, it wasn't possible to get a crane in for it.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder gotcha thanks
What's the size of the steel plate and the bolts?
The lengths of the two floor steels were around 6.5m each, and they were 203 X 206mm. the steel plates were 500mm long by 100mm wide by 20mm deep. The bolts were M12's.
Can anyone tell me rough cost of 3 x 4m beams installation?
Depending on size of beam and what needs doing but id say £500-£1000 including fitting
Depending on if you need the walls removing. Skips, Making good, support required. If a genie is able to be used or just man power, access, there’s Lots of factors.
Guys have so sentimental music there
What's the std size of h beam?
Probably 205x205mm but they come in a range of sizes, so you can get whatever you need really 👍
It's 2:25 am
Why am I watching this
that "beam' looks like a UC, universal column, never seen one used as a beam before, always used a UB, universal beam and those bolted joints, yeah not something Ive ever used or seen in Aus, maybe different codes in different countries and 2 joints,3 beams, dont think I'd get away with that
3:12 - Washers! Always use washers.
What do washers wash?
@Lynx L In this instance ordinary steel washers would be fine, assuming the fastener is torqued up correctly, the tension in the bolt, in a stationary application & not subjected to vibration or movement, would be sufficient to ensure good clamping force. The design intent here being that the bolt is under constant tension, if there are hot/cold cycles as long as the bolt always remains in tension, it basically is the spring. Don't forget, that is essentially how fasteners work, they rely on being stretched to one point or another to create an elasticity which pulls. Loads of fascinating science behind fasteners. Before I go, I will add, it is also very important not to overtighten as believe it or not, overnighted can be as dangerous as not tight enough. Once the bolt yields, it won't do much.
Hey lads Great job I have a question installing my steels tomorrow can I test 2 x 3.5 metre beams on the joists or will it not take it ?
You could probably rest them there temporarily, but they won't take that weight for very long.
I would suggest getting everything set up and ready in place, so that you are good to go, then bring your beams in and rest them on the joists for a short while, and then get them set in nice a level 👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks for getting back to me so quick I thought as much I have a genie lift but I’ve got celing joists in the way then I’ve got collor ties on the rafters then just about that I got where the steels are going. It’s gonna be a pain getting them through the celing joists as it’s only me and one genie lift 😞
Best of luck with it mate...! It doesn't sound easy, but there is almost always a way!👍💪
For a tradesmen if there's anything worse than a "watcher" it's a watcher with a camera.
Lol it cannot be that bad, otherwise half of all TH-cam content wouldn't exist!
Shouldn’t the steel beam have been higher up?
Oh wait. Is that floor the bit? Not the roof?
@@haroon420 yeah, this is the floor steel, so plenty of space below for the insulation, and then the ridge beam went in after (there's a video for that too).
That splice detail doesn’t look correct normally you have steel plates on all sides
I was a bit surprised to see it too really, but as that is what the SE specified, then that's what we needed to build - the building inspector wouldn't have signed it off otherwise.
That is surprising, I would of thought also plates all round to stop the downwards compression and stress on the bolts.
@@christaylor5291 the "stress" on the bolts is outwards strain i.e stretching the lower bolts longitudinally if the steel is under compression. They are unlikely to shear as they are not point loaded.
Wow_30-01-21
Would never hire such a girls.... rolling so small steel... lol
Working smarter, not harder - if it was good enough for the Egyptians, it's good enough for us
You obviously don't work in the trade then. When you do this daily, you work smart, no hard otherwise you'll have a very short career.
The steels are blooming heave. Did something similar and hand to handball them up through the house.
@@TheLondonForever00 I agree... I build loft conversions and some of the steels are extra heavy.. especially if they are 8" X 8" and 52 UC.
at 5.08 strangely enough the antenna is inside the attic.
Yes it was a curious one to find up there!
Am I the only one who found this in there recent section
@@albertleonidas147 wut?
I keep getting these random spam comments! I'm reporting them, not sure who's posting them, but there are loads of them from different people...sorry!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder ok 👌
No padstones
The structural engineer specified steel plates on the external load bearing wall...
Where can one find these i beams?
There are quite a few online steel suppliers now, that if your know your dimensions and the weight per meter, will give you an online quote. They can also provide delivery to your driveway, deliver onto the site, or delivery up to the top of the loft, depending on cost.
Tesco
@@CORRIGEEN71 Every little helps
Should be called how to overload a scaffold 🤔🤔🤔
It's funny you say that...I did wonder what the weight limits were for the scaffolding. We got those steels installed on the day that they arrived, so there was limited stress on the scaffold for that part. The tiles were pretty heavy though...!
"PPE is crucial on the job" . Shame no one is wearing any 🤦🏻♂️
Surely you've heard of irony...right?
Sliding steel rsjs over cables at least move the cables lads you get a bang of that electric 110 will blow you off the scaffolding. I would sack you on the spot. Access the dangers and protect yourself and your colleagues
@Stephen Norman sack them yes i personally can't change the behaviours of people. It's in their own interest on safety. I have seen idiots at work like this daily. You just can't tell them. They will not change. Dangerous tools and fools at work yes sack them
@Stephen Norman alcohol and safety don't mix on sites surely they have to be slightly intoxicated get the job done and get fully intoxicated. Sad life I'm at it nearly a half a century. Yes sack them
@Stephen Norman 80% of construction workers are heavy on the sauce. Rolling onto a job stinking of alcohol.
@Stephen Norman between drink and theft I saw it all.
@Stephen Norman now your making sense. Were you ever at a construction workers party. They are interesting. Never forget any lunatic can get a job on any construction site. Beware. I sacked many a lunatic after the party even during the party.
This has to be a third world country??? Brick is not a load bearing wall for a beam....The ends of those beams have to have a post on each side to transfer the load to the foundation.Definitely not the way to do it.Guys don’t do any of this show maker work otherwise in a year or two you’ll end up with the beam on top of your kitchen table.🙄🙄
Thanks for the comment, really constructive...! It's funny how the structural engineer did all those years of training and exams to be able to create the calculations for load bearing capabilities etc. just to get it completely wrong on my build. And then for the building inspector to miss it too. Not to mention every other build out there which uses brick as the support beneath a beam.
Lol
Finally, an educated comment from Science man.
This is England. That's how they do things here. Structural engineers know what they are told. It is wrong, but this is how it is. Houses are built with bricks / blocks with no concrete pillars and collar concrete beams around. Load bearing beams and joists sit on bricks only.
It's madness, but the reasoning is that it's not a ceismic prone land.
However, when one day there is an earthquake, all those rsj and what not will come down crashing when's the bricks dislodge.
It hasn't happen yet, but it will. Climate is changing, seismic activity can also shift.
I will never build a loft like this, whatever the structural engineers and building control may say and sign off. I will do it properly, over do it.
Moron
Of course it's Britain, they build mud houses like 3rd world countries