@@cylentoneI'm recovering from a tendency to lust after steels which often, in real life, end up being nothing more than a Cool Factor. I often think of Cedric and Ada's question about how long it would take you to notice if every knife you owned was magically converted to 8Cr or AUS8.
I’m glad I’m not caught up in the latest knife steel craze. I still see nothing wrong with 420/440 steel knives. And then recently heard & read doctor Larrin Thomas say the most important aspect of a knife is its geometry!!
steel isn’t as important as a lot of people think, but s30v or s35vn, or rex45 or 3v/4v are definitely objectively better than say d2, 440c, etc. the 440 steels are perfectly fine IF heat treated well (especially 440c) but in my opinion 420hc is pushing it for usefulness these days and base 420 is just not good. the one advantage that 420hc has over other steels is that it is the toughest commonly available steel alongside 3v.
My first "high end" knife was the Benchmade 710 almost 25 years ago. At the time, you could upgrade from the ATS 34 steel to the D2. It's so funny that D2 is now a budget steel.
@@acid6urnsplease stop with “edge retention” And no, d2 will outcut on soft abrasive material. And that’s like 1% of what dulls knives. If you’re cutting dirty materials which is practically everything the differences shrink. Believe me or don’t
I was a teen in the 1970's and all we had for S.S. knives was that 440 garbage --- so S30V is like a gift from God! I did my first deer with a Buck folder --- it was the "BEST" knife I had back then (still have that knife - Buck 317) paid $24.99 {around 1972} at the sports shop across from Jamesway in Somerset PA. SO YES s30v is still a great steel!
Indeed so. In the 70s my folder as well at my scout knife rusted and my father told me they are still good tools, but you must understand to take care of them. And showed how to get them in shape again. And of curse taught me the mystery of water and steel sometimes do not are friends unless spendig some time after cleaning the fish :)
440 is not garbage, 440a is not great in edge retention but it’s tough and stainless as hell. 440C is still to this day an awesome budget steel. it has fairly respectable edge retention and toughness, and decent corrosion resistance. 440C is mainly found in the $30-$60 budget range and is great for that price range.
@@acid6urns In that price range yeah it can be great, but nowadays we have magnacut knifes in the $120 range, and on the other hand companies like Victorinox selling 440 stuff for like $250
@@devildante9I don't think magnacut is worth the extra price and the only magnacut you can get for $125 is that Ontario ugly knife and maybe a polymer handle deka
I’m really old school I have 7 Bucks all 420hc and and 8 ESEE all 1095. That’s my entire knife collection. Been using Bucks for 47 years (440 on my first 110) and added the ESEE’s about 10 years ago and see no need to change anything. I will admit I have thought about a 110 in S30V but then I think why my 420hc just keeps on trucking.
This video is a great example of why I watch every week. David really IS an enthusiast, he truly considers the questions asked, and offers truly thoughtful answers. Taking the time to explain how he's interpreted a given question before answering makes a huge difference. Love the channel. Thomas' comment on the "tulu" should read "we're cleaver".
Hi DCA and Thomas, thank you for the answer. Definitely makes sense. As a bread cutter, package opener and meat slicer, I did think about the enemy fighter type type of use. Thanks !
Years ago, I drove by a vet clinic that was right next to a butcher shop at the edge of a small town. There wasn't another building for nearly a mile around and it raised some immediate questions. Did not stop.
What I’d like to see is a comparison of Spyderco’s S30V vs M390 or even Magnacut from companies known to treat them at a softer HRC. Spyderco is known to be really consistent with heat treats and I wonder if heat treatment is a bit of an equalizer
I’m always underwhelmed when I get a new high end steel. You cut things with it and they still get dull. The main difference I find is when it comes to sharpening. Some steels are a pain to sharpen.
I was starting to become a steel snob, but then I came to the same conclusion. Getting an okay edge on my R2D2 is frustrating. The next knife I bought was a Tenacious in 8cr. 30 seconds on 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper does it.
Get ANY Sandrin….you’ll struggle to dull it…..even your grandkids will still be rocking it….the Tungsten steel and the factory edge is alien. In a good way. Worth the price especially if you don’t have great sharpening skills.
@@elconquistador98if you’re struggling to sharpen d2 your problem is your sharpening technique not the steel, i can sharpen things like rex45 and s30v/s35/s45vn no problem all day long.
@@acid6urns I’ve since learned that d2 is not really a good steel for knives. It’s a tool steel. The reason it’s hard to get a great edge on it is cuz the granules of d2 are large. Do you get a great edge on d2?
@@elconquistador98 d2 is perfectly fine for knives, it just depends on what you need it to do. d2 is a relatively brittle steel with low toughness but high edge retention (less than something like a powder steel but it’s much cheaper) it does have large carbides which means you can’t really put a steep angle on the edge but it can take a 17-20 DPS angle fine.
You know, David, I’ve enjoyed watching the “knife steel evolution.” I remember D.E. Henry making Bowies of D2 (ooh!), seeing 440C hit the market (my near half century old single edge Bowen Survivor belt buckle is 440C), then seeing the big splash 154CM made (a bit like Magnacut now). There will always be new alloys, but the old steels still get the job done.
The thing about S30V is, despite being the first in a series of minutely improved steels, and despite not quite being a supersteel anymore, mostly because harder steels have been developed, S30V is still one of the best-balanced steels available! It is good in every category! That is of some importance, especially if you need good corrosion resistance and toughness, as well as hardness and wear resistance, and cost will always be a factor. All those things are important, making S30V one of the best, well-rounded, all-around knife steels on the market.
That last one looks like a simplified Clingon fighting scythe. Can't remember what the proper name is. Battle something or other. Good video, guys. Really enjoyed hearing your ideas about blade steels and the advancement in metallurgy. I have noticed that the price is coming down on some of what used to be super steels.
Your favorite critic.Been a butcher for over 50 yrs,dexter ,Swiss, Forshner knives I used. Forshner being my favorite, but they all cut same.Handles seem to be the biggest change.zThis would make a good show not Cooking butcher or hunting processing.Good show 😊
I consider DCA one of the most knowledgeable sources for information on not only steel but the entire industry. The market including folders and fixed blades is exploding and hard to keep up with. This channel is a great place to try and do that. 👍🏻
Hey DCA and crew! I like a nice Persian (back swept?) blade shape on a folder. I owned a CS Talwar and it was one of my favorite blade shapes. Preferences are under $250 and over 3.3". Prefer not CRKT options if I may. Thanks Knife FAQ!
Can we get a beat the icon for the Civivi Baby Banter? It's basically a staple in the realm of small knives now. Especially small knives with a full grip.
Hey DCA, I always wonder what liberties I can take with my knifes and still maintain the warranty. Would you mind talking about knife warranties, and how they are affected by disassembly, changing/dyeing scales, or even modifying original parts (cutting in a sharpening choil, rounding sharp corners, etc.)
Love this video! We used D2 in tooling and dies in the 70s and 80s and DROOLED at the thought of being able to afford a D2 custom! [And we used a lot of 10XX series steels back then, too]. We cut mild steel with D2, it being the best thing we found back then. IF one could purchase old D2 from the late 70s to early 80s, one would find it totally different from later D2. I sourced materials. I talked to Crucible guys after their 154 became the thing - I think done right, it would still be hard to beat [short of Magnacut and the newer things they've done - great guys, back then. I bet great guys now!]. After at least the early 80s, maybe mid to sometime in the 90s, D2 was NOT the same! Most of it came with "Certified" papers from China for some time, along with most non powder stainless, and even so soft cold roll. Things changed. Performance of materials in all classes fell per paperwork. [PS, by then even the Buck knives with the same steel seemed less than, though I hadn't talked to them for a while by then.] D2 did in no way perform as it had previously [I purchased and also worked the stuff in the machine shop]. D2 did in NO WAY heat treat as it had before! More issues with cracking, brittleness at the same treatments, and with becoming dulled MUCH more quickly. Worked in or behind the scenes supporting a machine shop building dies for steel cutting for 30 years! Crucible Steel guys were my hidden heroes, though neither company could afford the R&D we needed. They sure were superb for the niche! Anyway, just an "old guy" rambling FYI! Great vid! Carry on!
Still carrying an old Spyderco Endura 4 in VG10. Sure, I have tons of blades with better steel and more badass/newer features. But at the end of the day, it comes down to what you are comfortable using, sharpening and what fits best in your pocket.
I'm a geologist and I do a lot of field work. I spend days in the rugged backcountry, so I always have a good knife with me. But! I'm looking to save weight. I need as much room in my bag for rock samples as possible, so I think I'm going to get rid of some tools. I need an object that can be a survival knife, rock hammer, chisel, shovel, toothbrush, and magnifying glass all in one. Also must have a satin finish for testing mineral hardness. Good luck with that, Mr. DCA😎
spyderco literally sells the chaparral in that steel only. and the cutlery shoppe regularly does spyderco exclusives in xhp, i have a wharncliffe pm2 in it
i mean you can get s30v and s35vn in plenty of knives for under $100 these days. hell a spyderco dragonfly in it is like $100, spyderco ambitious s35vn comes in at like 95, boker has an exclusive version of the kalashnikov on bladeops in s30v for $50 (it’s really chippy for s30v tho) and a bunch of knives in s35vn for under $100, the kaizen, urban trapper, etc all under $100 with s35vn
@@JohnFrumFromAmerica it already is budget my guy. older PM steels like s30v and s35vn aren’t super expensive, you can get s35 for under $100 all day, and there’s quite a few knives under $80 in s35vn too
I've been enjoying all the videos of yours; every one of them is interesting to me. By the way, the Pet Shop Boys are an English synth-pop duo formed in London in 1981, who achieved great success worldwide in the '80s.
Going back to the start of my knife retardation: 40+ years ago I was told "do not buy the Buck 110, the steel is too hard to sharpen". Yes I bought it anyway and carried it for probably twenty years. 😊
Great episode guys! I have several knives from Halfbreed out of Australia and they use a specially treated D2. Do you know how that particular D2 stacks up against these newer steels? 🙏
Of the common handle materials used today, are specific materials suitable for specific jobs? For example, if I'm deciding between a G10, FRN, or Micarta for a folder, is it only about personal preference? Or should I know about different performance capabilities I may be unaware of?
I still think Benchmade s30v is still the best overall steel there is. After you sharpen away the burnt edge and material. OG 940 in s30v is my jam. K390 is sweet too.
Hi DCA, thank you for sharing your knife knowledge and for the passion you put in your job. I follow you from Italy since january 2022 and your suggestions helped to "forge" my quite recent knife passion. Last year bought an Elmax U2 from Fällkniven for EDC (everyday utility knife plus some very basic woodwork) and I'm very satisfied about its performance and size. The only feature I would change if I could is the two hands opening mechanism. Is there a similar knife you would recommend suitable for one-hand opening? Price range around the 200 $ or less. Grazie mille
I’m not a tactical kind of guy and I don’t do high speed anything, but I do much prefer a standard pocket clip over a deep carry clip. It’s just easier and I don’t see a need for maximum concealment. I live in an area with very small towns where nobody ever seems to care if you have a knife or not. In fact, 99% of the time I carry a fixie with a four inch blade or bigger. It doesn’t matter if I go to the doctor, the library, the grocery store, or pretty much anywhere. The only place I don’t carry a fixie is if I have to go into the schools for band concerts, ball games, or whatever. Nobody has ever asked me about it, except my grand daughter who asked me why I always wear a sword. 😂
Best video of the week! I do have a question though. I frequently have to abuse my knives in the dark red mud of Alabama where I live, and my knives are beginning to suffer. What knife would you recommend that could stand up against a muddy sort of abuse?
@@bobjohnson1633 maxamet is good, but with some of the harsher cutting I do I think it would snap. I love the edge retention, but I just think it would be too brittle.
Hey, DCA & Thomas! Was considering getting a bushcraft knife, and I know Moras are recommended everywhere. I wanted to ask if you could go over a few of the models and provide some insight as to why someone would want one over another: Pro S, Companion, Garberg, Kansbol... MORA Over Really Anything, sure. But where would one Mora be better than another?
As far as electronics go I would say it depends on what you’re talking about and for how long. Depending on the brand and how well it’s supported many electronics don’t really lose functionality for long time and can actually get better than they were at least in some ways. Also a good knife is a good knife. Don’t let fomo convince you that you need something new to cut something. Buy the best quality you can afford and use the crap out of it!
It seems some US knife brands have started bringing out budget knives with those "obsolete" steels because they can't get the prices down using the steels their budget competitors are.
looking at you crkt with your $75 aus8 M16 SF… the best steel available in the m16 is D2 and that costs over $100, the best steel for the base model m16s without the deadlock is 12c27 and it’s only on two models im aware of.
While playing paintball I was shot in the chest at some point which unfortunately knocked my usually reliable WE Quark out of it’s carbon fiber sheath. Since I need a replacement, what options for micro neck knives are there? My criteria is small and light weight. I would love to see what is out there at all price points and styles, but need it to be every day wearable, so not too big or heavy please! Thank you for the help in advance, love the show.
I mentioned this in another comment, but if you want something of similar quality, the Rike Hummingbird is just fantastic, and comes with a bonus of being pocketable with a milled titanium pocket clip if you don't want to use the neck holster. They have crazy flamboyant colors but also a simple gray matte titanium version. 1.3" Damasteel blade. Ti framelock flipper. Kydex neck holster. Yeah, it's $135, but it's not for lack of refinement.
@@lordirek1 Thanks for type suggestion, but I’m looking for something in the micro category similar to the WE Quark, which honestly there may not be anything else out there to compete with it.
@@gladius1275 no worries, the entire thing is maybe 1.5 times the size of the quark when closed. The quark is very small. There's not much that meets that size requirement out there, side from another quark.
@@lordirek1 You are likely right, but I like the idea of a usable knife necklace that is jewelry quality. Wish there were more like it. It’s also a way for me to carry another knife on me! 😆
@@gladius1275 just looked up the specs, overall size of the quark outside the sheath is 1.5 inches, Hummingbird is 2.3 inches closed. So almost exactly 1.5 times the size. Interestingly, it weighs only 2/3 as much as the quark. It's also much skinnier. But it does lack that kind of pendant presentation the quark has. Without knowing what it is, the quark can pass for a necklace. The hummingbird really can't. Yeah, I'm not sure there's any real comparable option for that, especially not one in a premium steel.
Steels can absolutely become obsolete. For people buying a new knife at prices that never stop going up. Why would you buy a lesser steel for the same relative price. The issue is when a trendy name steel is percieved as better when it really only excels in one category. Steels like S30V are good because it is a well rounded steel. Good corrosion resistance, edge retention, toughness. It's not to say a new steel won't come along that is a better mix, and when that happens, people will gravitate towards the better steel. Mostly steels are 'different' rather than better. Super toughness, never ending edge retention, ultra stainless. Then there's things like ease of sharpening to factor in. Honestly the masses don't know enough about steel to make an educated decision on steel. Which is why trendy steels like Magnacut (which is a great steel) reign supreme. Not because they understand the attributes of the steel, but because it's got a good name and some 'buzz' in the knife community. Lastly I think liner locks frame locks still exist in high end knives because they're easy to make. Not because they're better. They are the worst locks of whats available. But they're simple, so they are favored by makers.
Liner locks and frame locks are very easy and smooth to operate, pretty reliable when done well, can last pretty long, easy to maintain and repair and resistant to mud. It is not my favorite type of lock but I like it much more than back lock (or its triad lock variant). Cross bar locks (like axis lock) are good at almost everything but spring breakage is a real issue. So my favorite is probably a button lock, with cross bar and frame/liner lock close behind.
This Brings to mind the last interaction I had with your website after watching you TH-cam….. ka-bar snake bite or something like that,,, Sweet looking blade
Whoever wrote that question into you guys about S30V not being premium anymore and possibly replacing D2 on the budget end of knives is absolutely delusional and probably just got into the hobby within the last month. S30V is absolutely still a premium steel, and any steel that was once considered a "super steel" doesn't just lose that labeling because several better (arguably) super steels have entered the market as well. Just because we have Rex121, 20CV, and Vanax Superclean doesn't mean that S30V's characteristics, are somehow not premium anymore. What's even more condescending is that those same people claim edge retention is the do all, be all of importance in terms of steel selection, however they feel that S35VN and S45VN are superior steels to S30V. The latter of the bunch has far better edge retention than the other two, and S35/45VN were only created as options for S30V fans/users but with the slight retraction in edge retention qualities in order to increase toughness (less chippy) and stainless qualities. Insane to think that S30V is not a super steel anymore.
What happens to old knives that go unsold? Some companies make an extraordinary amount of different models and I can't imagine they all get purchased. What happens to the leftovers?
Yes S30V is still good. 420hc is still good. 8crv is still good. 440 a and c are still good. What is not good is "super steels" that you can't sharpen to a great edge with just a couple of swipes and that cause knives to cost so much that you can use them because your afraid to mess it up. In turn you pull out your Buck 420hc blade and get the job done. Also all these super steels are prevent many of us from getting to enjoy cool knife designs. For example the Benchmade Bugout is over $150 dollars. Build one with 420hc or D2 and many of us at $50 dollars could buy and enjoy it. I bet most knife folks enjoy sharpening when its easy.
I am a 91 year old knife guy and I can't remember when i want interested in knives ,I recall when 440c was the be all end all was 440c ,now it is a nothing kind of steel.My question is about 440a .it is said to have decent edge retention good toughness good rust proofness and yet it is considered a very low ed steel ,.It will be found on knives nite the lower price range .I have 440a that are very good n some that are crap ,probably depending on th heat treat ? My favorite is Bucks 420 hc I with Bucks famous heat treat it is her to beat
Question, we talk about blade steel being corrosion resistant, but what about the rest of the metal on the knife? Screws, lock backs etc? Is it all made out of the same thing? Or will the rest rust….
Really good point and the answer is that it's completely up to the manufacturer to decide what hardware (screws, bolts, pivots, spacers, etc.) to use. As a general statement, most knives (fixed & folding) are assembled with generic stainless steel hardware. (This may be polished, anodised or blackened etc. to suit the blade.) This is good as this makes most hardware 'reasonably' stainless for most uses - but will still corrode especially if exposed to wet/humid environments. Thankfully there are options. 1) Knives made specifically for wet environments often have ultra-stainless hardware. eg. I have a Spyderco Caribbean - both the blade & the hardware are LC200N steel offering exceptional corrosion resistance even in salt water. 2) Many premium & custom blades are made with titanium or other metals that offer superior corrosion resistance. If you require all round corrosion resistance, some quick enquiries will let you know if the hardware is as good as the blade steel. Have a great day.
Hi DCA and Team! Question (to the whole team...why not right?) So... ya'll have done the question of one knife and such... I want to pose... not necessarily one knife... but one EDC knife... could be fixed or folding... you can have others for other reasons...camping , bushcraft and so on but if you were to pick one EDC fixed or folding... what are you going for?
Could you please explain detent in detail. I hear many adjectives to describe how the detent is on a specific knife and it leaves me in the dark. Thank you very much for your informative videos. Rick
Only steel I ever actually wanted in particular is LC200n cause I live near the ocean. I REALLY wanted camping knives in S35VN but in the end opted for ESEE's in 1095 (Venom Green Junglas and Venom Green ESEE 4) cause at the end of the day I care more about customer reviews and customer service than stats on paper.
Hey DCA, very serious question for you (and more importantly Thomas). I’m looking for an EDC cheese knife. The kind with the little forky bit on the end so I can tactically eat my cheese on the go. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Not sure if that's the best use Moore's Law since that pertains to electronics getting more compact due to dies getting smaller. Planned obsolescence I think would be better suited when talking about the lifespan of electronics. Plus I think materialism plays a huge part, I know people that keep the same phone for 5+ years at a time and other's that just wanna get the latest and greatest every new model. Same goes with knives, in all actuality everyone could be fine with just 1 folder and 1 fixed blade. Instead we go crazy when a new version or model is released when at the end of the they all do the same thing... which is cut.
You're not wrong on planned obsolescence, but there's also multiple factors to consider, especially within the computer space. The amount of data used in day to day life climbs almost logarithmically, which drives the older technology further and further into obsolescence. Also, processing requirements, power requirements, and just plain user experience and desire. Yeah, all things considered your old 720p monitor still works, but with the age of 8k dawning, users would consider it generally a non-starter.
@@lordirek1 Don’t disagree that computers have improved performance exponentially however calling 8k the starting point is a bit much even 4K really isn’t necessary. I think 1080 should be the standard. I have a rig with an i5-8600k, 1060 and 16Gb that I built in 2017 and I’m still able to game on it with medium settings. All I’ve upgraded was the size of my SSD since now it’s way cheaper to get a 1TB SSD than it was back then. Ultimately it’s a personal preference and people are free to do with their money as they please.
@@CarvingSteel oh 8k is absolutely NOT the starting point, you are 100% correct. It's just that if that is now the "top tier" that's commercially available, the data used in day to day applications and gaming, for example, is going to catch up. It's like trying to run premium applications on even ten year olds machines, it's just not viable. Ten years ago 720 was still a normal screen res, 60hz high end (120 was basically king, but almost nobody had it), and the games and applications of the time reflected that. Now Call of Duty is optimized for 4k 60hz, and up to 120 if your equipment can handle it. And the file sizes and processing power required reflect that. You couldn't run the current COD on most 2013 PCs, at least not without it being so basic as to be missing all its textures. It's also why prebuilts are always on clearance within 6 months, they just don't match what people want, because the newer and better is going to be the new standard soon. It's just an arms race. Knife steels, though... Well, I don't think the requirements change much. Cutting cardboard has been the same since the 70s haha. In fact, aside from certain specific applications, the vast majority of people can get by with a simple 420hc folder like a buck 110, and that's been around for more than half a century. Try using a 2010 laptop as your primary computer nowadays, it's very frustrating, even if it's been updated.
The problem i am having is how do we actually know that we are getting the type of steel that the these companies say that are in there knives? I’ve had a few that upon comparing them to the same steel on my other knives and it is absolutely a different steel and performs and sharpens completely different and it’s pretty disappointing when you spend $100/$200 dollars on a knife and this is where I’m hesitant to purchase what they call budget knives and what company is actually trustworthy to give you what they say it is on without spending $200/$300 dollars and then just spending big money on a knife doesn’t always work either so how do we really know
Different heat treat prices will yield different results. Almost all knife companies are well above board with using the steel they claim. All your major players have too much to lose with a scandal like that. So you're probably safe with all American made, all European made, all Japanese made, and when it comes to Chinese made, stick to stuff under the We or Artisan or Reate banners and you'll definitely be safe. Just be aware that heat treat and edge geometry are at least as important as steel choice itself.
Guest host? That would be an awesome prize giveaway. Y'all should run a contest. (Maybe a video submission to ensure the guest host is photogenic. 😂) Love the content and appreciate all the hard work. Thank you.
Hi DCA and Thomas, while looking online for HRC vs toughness for 14C28N, i've noticed it has a very broad spectrum of hrc, from 55 to 62. Is there a reason why we dont see this steel harnened to 62 hrc? Thank!
As the hardness goes up, the toughness goes down, generally. The Sandvik is very tough, that's a major strength in the Bushcraft/survival community. Hardening to the limit will negate a lot of that toughness and it'll get kind of chippy, making it less good at its primary intended purpose. Most steels have that trade off, which is why Magnacut is such a big deal. It's supposed to be able to be hardened to 63-64 with minimal loss of toughness, making it a phenomenal edge holder with a wide range of applications, while still nearly equaling the stainlessness of lc200n, which is just crazy.
Knives don’t become obsolete. 1) if the quality is good, the quality is good. 2) if you know how to and when you are supposed to use a knife for a particular task, then you are good to go. 3) the whole concept of “obsolete” is for knife makers, because they have to deal with competitors and they have to bring innovation for certain type of buyers. Not all buyers.
@KnifeCenter: DCA - What is a "tactical" knife? Is that just a synonym for "folding figh thing knife" or "knife sutiable for self defence"? I hear reference to the genre nearly every Knife Center FAQ and many new release round up videos. Can you define this term and some of the characteristics/tasks/uses for a tactical (or even a tacti-cool) knife? When I hear "tactical knife" I think that a tactical knife is a knife that can be used in a tactical situation, which I think of as a battlefield or maybe urban combat e.g. swat team, zombie apolcalypse. So I think robust cord/rope/wire cutter, ration opener, flexi cuff opener, package openener (ammo, batteries, dressings), 100mph tape, burlap/sandbags, removing clothing/footwear (from casualties), carving/whittling - a sort of general purpose field knife that is also useful with things that go "bang!" that maybe in a pinch could be used in a fight - but the fighty part is a secondary or tertiary use.
Here's a question: what are some knives you'd recommend for a first titanium frame lock? That's been a hole in my collection for years, and I've been more tempted to get into them recently. The more "entry level" price the better, but I know that quality ti knives are inherently not cheap.
DCA, I just picked up the awesome CRKT "Clever Girl" Kukri from TKC. I like to think the name comes from an iconic line in a certain Jurassic dinosaur movie. Is that true? Even if not, what knives have interesting stories/origins to their names?
I like this question, seems like there can be a ton of fun answers. Like half of Elijah Isham's designs have cool sci-fi references, Ostap Hel has a few play-on-words names. Knife naming can be very interesting. DCA, please include this one at some point!
I might jump in and say 'no' (perhaps excluding some ultra premium or custom knives). Although additional cost would be an issue, it's the physical properties of most 'super steels' that prevent their use outside of cutting edges. Most 'super steels' have a hardness exceeding 60+ (or even 65+) Rockwell and are simply too hard to machine and shape and work into handles. The time and materials required would send the cost of manufacturing through the roof. Further, it would be a waste, most handles do not need the performance of super steel. eg. Why would a handle need to have high wear resistance? Finally, a number of super steels are not corrosion resistant. So, if used, the handles would also be prone to corrosion which would make maintenance just that bit harder. Hope this helps. Have a great day.
Viper Turn all day for the non-tac looking tactical, not just tacti-cool You can flick it open, the blade has a great shape, but you can go from EDC to fancy gent vibe with CF or Ram Horn, or wood...
DCA.....D2 is a tool steel....( commercial cutters , tooling for lathes , mills , grinders ) it its just a great all around knife steel .....Powdered metallurgy alloys go after fine grain sizes and minimized carbide formation.....QUESTION : in a situation of an axial side load......is toughness or strength the predominant attribute to measure ????......
I saw you had two Al Mar knives today. I'm a manager of a cigar shop. I carry a AL Mar Cuban cutter knife most days. I've had it for years. Are there any other companies that make similar knifes? Thank.
Hi DCA! I just got a knife I really like, and the blade is in Aus 10. I'd like to know more about that steel, but I'm finding that there's relatively little information. Do you have anything more than "it's like 440C or VG10", which is about all I've found so far. I'm wondering at the usual 3 pillars of steel design - edge holding, toughness, and corrosion resistance. Any info appreciated!
Often a problem when describing performance is assuming others know what you're comparing it to!! Having said that I'm going to start off by saying that AUS-10 is a marginally better steel that AUS-8. There is lots of info on AUS-8 out there so look that up to get a starting point. Keeping it simple, AUS-10 offers better edge retention than AUS-8 (albeit with slightly less toughness but for folding blades that's not an issue). AUS-10 is a good, reliable budget-to-mid end EDC blade steel. Now the 3 pillars - I'll do my best. Edge retention: although better than AUS-8, is low-moderate by today's standards. Will need reasonably regular sharpening with repeated use. While more than suitable for EDC type usage, I wouldn't recommend it for a work or constant use blade. Toughness: moderate. Although dependant on blade design will tolerate some impact and lateral stress. Will roll an edge rather than chip. More than enough toughness for an EDC folding blade. Corrosion resistance: good. Has both chromium & nickel in its composition. Suitable for all but the most humid & environments providing you follow basic maintenance. Finally, I add one other pillar - Ease of Sharpening: with a Rockwell usually between 58-60 and its fine carbide structure, AUS-10 is generally easy to sharpen and will easily take a keen sharp edge. Responds well to stropping. So even though it may require regular sharpening, at least it won't be hard to do. Hope this helps. Have a great day.
Hmm, the Twolu is an interesting option for a Pizza cutter. So if you added a third section it coulf be the Trilu.. or Bat'Leth too others! Regardless, Qapla' !
What would you recommend for a gentleman's knife, blade length between 2.5 and 3.25 inches, that has either a button or crossbar lock, for someone who isn't crazy about all the fat carbon, zircu-ti and ti-mascus stuff out there? Preferably no more than $200 (US).
Knife steel quality doesn't lower when new steels come out. S30V and S35VN are as great as they have ever been.
Facts. My favorite daily carry is still 12C28N and as good as ever...
@@cylentoneI'm recovering from a tendency to lust after steels which often, in real life, end up being nothing more than a Cool Factor. I often think of Cedric and Ada's question about how long it would take you to notice if every knife you owned was magically converted to 8Cr or AUS8.
AGREED
Literally lol
Exactlly. The floor didn't get lower, the celiling just got higher
I’m glad I’m not caught up in the latest knife steel craze. I still see nothing wrong with 420/440 steel knives. And then recently heard & read doctor Larrin Thomas say the most important aspect of a knife is its geometry!!
steel isn’t as important as a lot of people think, but s30v or s35vn, or rex45 or 3v/4v are definitely objectively better than say d2, 440c, etc. the 440 steels are perfectly fine IF heat treated well (especially 440c) but in my opinion 420hc is pushing it for usefulness these days and base 420 is just not good. the one advantage that 420hc has over other steels is that it is the toughest commonly available steel alongside 3v.
My first "high end" knife was the Benchmade 710 almost 25 years ago. At the time, you could upgrade from the ATS 34 steel to the D2. It's so funny that D2 is now a budget steel.
I bought an AFCK in D2 for the same reason haha :)
i’d honestly argue that ats34/154cm is more of an upgrade over d2 than d2 is over ats34. 154 has less edge retention but better everything else.
They also have m2. A steel I’m using a lot it’s super nice. D2 will be a great option forever. If someone doesn’t like it they’re a snob
@@acid6urnsplease stop with “edge retention”
And no, d2 will outcut on soft abrasive material. And that’s like 1% of what dulls knives. If you’re cutting dirty materials which is practically everything the differences shrink.
Believe me or don’t
I was a teen in the 1970's and all we had for S.S. knives was that 440 garbage --- so S30V is like a gift from God! I did my first deer with a Buck folder --- it was the "BEST" knife I had back then (still have that knife - Buck 317) paid $24.99 {around 1972} at the sports shop across from Jamesway in Somerset PA. SO YES s30v is still a great steel!
Indeed so. In the 70s my folder as well at my scout knife rusted and my father told me they are still good tools, but you must understand to take care of them. And showed how to get them in shape again. And of curse taught me the mystery of water and steel sometimes do not are friends unless spendig some time after cleaning the fish :)
440 is not garbage, 440a is not great in edge retention but it’s tough and stainless as hell. 440C is still to this day an awesome budget steel. it has fairly respectable edge retention and toughness, and decent corrosion resistance. 440C is mainly found in the $30-$60 budget range and is great for that price range.
@@acid6urns In that price range yeah it can be great, but nowadays we have magnacut knifes in the $120 range, and on the other hand companies like Victorinox selling 440 stuff for like $250
GREAT YOU KEEP IT @@acid6urns
@@devildante9I don't think magnacut is worth the extra price and the only magnacut you can get for $125 is that Ontario ugly knife and maybe a polymer handle deka
I’m really old school I have 7 Bucks all 420hc and and 8 ESEE all 1095. That’s my entire knife collection. Been using Bucks for 47 years (440 on my first 110) and added the ESEE’s about 10 years ago and see no need to change anything. I will admit I have thought about a 110 in S30V but then I think why my 420hc just keeps on trucking.
This video is a great example of why I watch every week. David really IS an enthusiast, he truly considers the questions asked, and offers truly thoughtful answers. Taking the time to explain how he's interpreted a given question before answering makes a huge difference. Love the channel.
Thomas' comment on the "tulu" should read "we're cleaver".
My Kershaw Blur in S30V is my favorite everyday carry, of many. Keeps its edge a long time and easy to sharpen back to razor sharp.
Great knife, I have one also. Only gripe is the pocket clip could he deeper carry.
Hi DCA and Thomas, thank you for the answer. Definitely makes sense. As a bread cutter, package opener and meat slicer, I did think about the enemy fighter type type of use. Thanks !
DCA you are a wealth of knowledge thank you for the videos. This is my favorite knife TH-cam channel. 👍
Years ago, I drove by a vet clinic that was right next to a butcher shop at the edge of a small town. There wasn't another building for nearly a mile around and it raised some immediate questions. Did not stop.
It's always good to avoid the opportunity to find your name on the chalkboard with today's specials.
I love cross bar and button locks too! I’m disappointed that more new knives don’t embrace them and get away from frame or liner locks.
While I like the new steels as much as the next person, I still rely on the Kabar that I carried in the military 50+ years ago. Good 1095 steel.
What I’d like to see is a comparison of Spyderco’s S30V vs M390 or even Magnacut from companies known to treat them at a softer HRC. Spyderco is known to be really consistent with heat treats and I wonder if heat treatment is a bit of an equalizer
Spyderco and Cold Steel S30V- S35VN are all close to or better than 60 rockwell, and incredibly hard to sharpen without diamonds.
I’m always underwhelmed when I get a new high end steel. You cut things with it and they still get dull. The main difference I find is when it comes to sharpening. Some steels are a pain to sharpen.
I was starting to become a steel snob, but then I came to the same conclusion. Getting an okay edge on my R2D2 is frustrating. The next knife I bought was a Tenacious in 8cr. 30 seconds on 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper does it.
Get ANY Sandrin….you’ll struggle to dull it…..even your grandkids will still be rocking it….the Tungsten steel and the factory edge is alien. In a good way. Worth the price especially if you don’t have great sharpening skills.
@@elconquistador98if you’re struggling to sharpen d2 your problem is your sharpening technique not the steel, i can sharpen things like rex45 and s30v/s35/s45vn no problem all day long.
@@acid6urns I’ve since learned that d2 is not really a good steel for knives. It’s a tool steel. The reason it’s hard to get a great edge on it is cuz the granules of d2 are large. Do you get a great edge on d2?
@@elconquistador98 d2 is perfectly fine for knives, it just depends on what you need it to do. d2 is a relatively brittle steel with low toughness but high edge retention (less than something like a powder steel but it’s much cheaper) it does have large carbides which means you can’t really put a steep angle on the edge but it can take a 17-20 DPS angle fine.
That Karbon ahoy is the best looking frame lock I've seen so far..
You know, David, I’ve enjoyed watching the “knife steel evolution.” I remember D.E. Henry making Bowies of D2 (ooh!), seeing 440C hit the market (my near half century old single edge Bowen Survivor belt buckle is 440C), then seeing the big splash 154CM made (a bit like Magnacut now). There will always be new alloys, but the old steels still get the job done.
The thing about S30V is, despite being the first in a series of minutely improved steels, and despite not quite being a supersteel anymore, mostly because harder steels have been developed, S30V is still one of the best-balanced steels available! It is good in every category! That is of some importance, especially if you need good corrosion resistance and toughness, as well as hardness and wear resistance, and cost will always be a factor. All those things are important, making S30V one of the best, well-rounded, all-around knife steels on the market.
David Anderson you are excellent! The place to go for knives and info about knives!
Have got one of those wee S30V Ladybugs on order - preordered the UKPK in Magnacut at the same time, so really hoping that comes available soon... 🙏
That last one looks like a simplified Clingon fighting scythe. Can't remember what the proper name is. Battle something or other. Good video, guys. Really enjoyed hearing your ideas about blade steels and the advancement in metallurgy. I have noticed that the price is coming down on some of what used to be super steels.
The Bat'leth, it for sure gives off that vibe haha.
Your favorite critic.Been a butcher for over 50 yrs,dexter ,Swiss, Forshner knives I used. Forshner being my favorite, but they all cut same.Handles seem to be the biggest change.zThis would make a good show not Cooking butcher or hunting processing.Good show 😊
Dexter wood and plastic,Swiss plastic there gone now Forshner wood and plastic,the metal has changed but the old stuff still cuts thanks
I consider DCA one of the most knowledgeable sources for information on not only steel but the entire industry. The market including folders and fixed blades is exploding and hard to keep up with. This channel is a great place to try and do that. 👍🏻
Which knife do you believe Francis and Fritz should have had on the island for survival and fighting the pirates? (Swiss Family Robinson 1960)
Hey DCA and crew! I like a nice Persian (back swept?) blade shape on a folder. I owned a CS Talwar and it was one of my favorite blade shapes. Preferences are under $250 and over 3.3". Prefer not CRKT options if I may. Thanks Knife FAQ!
I have a microtech Brachial. Sweet Persian blade. Automatic.
F.S. 250$
Can we get a beat the icon for the Civivi Baby Banter? It's basically a staple in the realm of small knives now. Especially small knives with a full grip.
Hey DCA, I always wonder what liberties I can take with my knifes and still maintain the warranty. Would you mind talking about knife warranties, and how they are affected by disassembly, changing/dyeing scales, or even modifying original parts (cutting in a sharpening choil, rounding sharp corners, etc.)
Love this video! We used D2 in tooling and dies in the 70s and 80s and DROOLED at the thought of being able to afford a D2 custom! [And we used a lot of 10XX series steels back then, too]. We cut mild steel with D2, it being the best thing we found back then. IF one could purchase old D2 from the late 70s to early 80s, one would find it totally different from later D2. I sourced materials. I talked to Crucible guys after their 154 became the thing - I think done right, it would still be hard to beat [short of Magnacut and the newer things they've done - great guys, back then. I bet great guys now!]. After at least the early 80s, maybe mid to sometime in the 90s, D2 was NOT the same! Most of it came with "Certified" papers from China for some time, along with most non powder stainless, and even so soft cold roll. Things changed. Performance of materials in all classes fell per paperwork. [PS, by then even the Buck knives with the same steel seemed less than, though I hadn't talked to them for a while by then.] D2 did in no way perform as it had previously [I purchased and also worked the stuff in the machine shop]. D2 did in NO WAY heat treat as it had before! More issues with cracking, brittleness at the same treatments, and with becoming dulled MUCH more quickly. Worked in or behind the scenes supporting a machine shop building dies for steel cutting for 30 years! Crucible Steel guys were my hidden heroes, though neither company could afford the R&D we needed. They sure were superb for the niche! Anyway, just an "old guy" rambling FYI! Great vid! Carry on!
Still carrying an old Spyderco Endura 4 in VG10. Sure, I have tons of blades with better steel and more badass/newer features. But at the end of the day, it comes down to what you are comfortable using, sharpening and what fits best in your pocket.
Same although I highly recommend the wharncliff3 endura in K390.. it's only $98 right now!!
I'm a geologist and I do a lot of field work. I spend days in the rugged backcountry, so I always have a good knife with me.
But! I'm looking to save weight. I need as much room in my bag for rock samples as possible, so I think I'm going to get rid of some tools. I need an object that can be a survival knife, rock hammer, chisel, shovel, toothbrush, and magnifying glass all in one. Also must have a satin finish for testing mineral hardness.
Good luck with that, Mr. DCA😎
The Work Tuff Panthera meets a lot of your list, unfortunately not all. The search continues.
Shame CTS XHP is almost impossible to get now. Was my favourite steel
I have cold steel ak47 with that blade steel freakin tank
Spyderco has a few in cts.
Picked up a chaparral CTS-XHP a while back. I do like the steel.
spyderco literally sells the chaparral in that steel only. and the cutlery shoppe regularly does spyderco exclusives in xhp, i have a wharncliffe pm2 in it
I'd love S30V to be budget steel!
Heck yes all day
The steel isn't budget, but it is not expensive by any means.
i mean you can get s30v and s35vn in plenty of knives for under $100 these days. hell a spyderco dragonfly in it is like $100, spyderco ambitious s35vn comes in at like 95, boker has an exclusive version of the kalashnikov on bladeops in s30v for $50 (it’s really chippy for s30v tho) and a bunch of knives in s35vn for under $100, the kaizen, urban trapper, etc all under $100 with s35vn
It's never going to be budget as it needs to be made with a particle metallurgy process.
@@JohnFrumFromAmerica it already is budget my guy. older PM steels like s30v and s35vn aren’t super expensive, you can get s35 for under $100 all day, and there’s quite a few knives under $80 in s35vn too
I've been enjoying all the videos of yours; every one of them is interesting to me.
By the way, the Pet Shop Boys are an English synth-pop duo formed in London in 1981, who achieved great success worldwide in the '80s.
Going back to the start of my knife retardation: 40+ years ago I was told "do not buy the Buck 110, the steel is too hard to sharpen". Yes I bought it anyway and carried it for probably twenty years. 😊
Great episode guys! I have several knives from Halfbreed out of Australia and they use a specially treated D2. Do you know how that particular D2 stacks up against these newer steels? 🙏
Of the common handle materials used today, are specific materials suitable for specific jobs? For example, if I'm deciding between a G10, FRN, or Micarta for a folder, is it only about personal preference? Or should I know about different performance capabilities I may be unaware of?
I still think Benchmade s30v is still the best overall steel there is. After you sharpen away the burnt edge and material. OG 940 in s30v is my jam. K390 is sweet too.
Wow, i was literally looking this up 5 minutes ago and as i come back to youtube i see this in my feed.
Hi DCA, thank you for sharing your knife knowledge and for the passion you put in your job. I follow you from Italy since january 2022 and your suggestions helped to "forge" my quite recent knife passion. Last year bought an Elmax U2 from Fällkniven for EDC (everyday utility knife plus some very basic woodwork) and I'm very satisfied about its performance and size. The only feature I would change if I could is the two hands opening mechanism. Is there a similar knife you would recommend suitable for one-hand opening? Price range around the 200 $ or less. Grazie mille
I’m not a tactical kind of guy and I don’t do high speed anything, but I do much prefer a standard pocket clip over a deep carry clip. It’s just easier and I don’t see a need for maximum concealment. I live in an area with very small towns where nobody ever seems to care if you have a knife or not. In fact, 99% of the time I carry a fixie with a four inch blade or bigger. It doesn’t matter if I go to the doctor, the library, the grocery store, or pretty much anywhere. The only place I don’t carry a fixie is if I have to go into the schools for band concerts, ball games, or whatever. Nobody has ever asked me about it, except my grand daughter who asked me why I always wear a sword. 😂
Best video of the week!
I do have a question though. I frequently have to abuse my knives in the dark red mud of Alabama where I live, and my knives are beginning to suffer. What knife would you recommend that could stand up against a muddy sort of abuse?
Maxamet.
@@bobjohnson1633 maxamet is good, but with some of the harsher cutting I do I think it would snap. I love the edge retention, but I just think it would be too brittle.
Native 5 Salt in MagnaCut
Suffering blade corrosion or folding mechanism getting gritty or loose?
@@Chris_Mack a bit of both, but my hard use tends to bend the tips or roll the edges
Hey, DCA & Thomas! Was considering getting a bushcraft knife, and I know Moras are recommended everywhere. I wanted to ask if you could go over a few of the models and provide some insight as to why someone would want one over another: Pro S, Companion, Garberg, Kansbol... MORA Over Really Anything, sure. But where would one Mora be better than another?
As far as electronics go I would say it depends on what you’re talking about and for how long. Depending on the brand and how well it’s supported many electronics don’t really lose functionality for long time and can actually get better than they were at least in some ways. Also a good knife is a good knife. Don’t let fomo convince you that you need something new to cut something. Buy the best quality you can afford and use the crap out of it!
Hey there DCA and Thomas! I’ve gotta say I’m a HUGE fan of Strider designs, some of his customs really fit into the gentlemanly tacti-cool category !
Hi David,
What is your favorite pocket knife blade and is your favorite pocket knife handle? Would it work, if you put the two together?
That last bit was, indeed, very cleaver
I got an ulu on a trip to Alaska and it’s a wonderful pizza cutter. The best way to get perfect even slices. Thanks 🔪🎸
You twolu are very cleaver. Hoping S30V becomes affordable like D2 steel sooner rather than later
It seems some US knife brands have started bringing out budget knives with those "obsolete" steels because they can't get the prices down using the steels their budget competitors are.
"they can't" or they don't want? Or they don't even try to?
looking at you crkt with your $75 aus8 M16 SF… the best steel available in the m16 is D2 and that costs over $100, the best steel for the base model m16s without the deadlock is 12c27 and it’s only on two models im aware of.
@@Rakx10 You read my mind ....
While playing paintball I was shot in the chest at some point which unfortunately knocked my usually reliable WE Quark out of it’s carbon fiber sheath. Since I need a replacement, what options for micro neck knives are there? My criteria is small and light weight. I would love to see what is out there at all price points and styles, but need it to be every day wearable, so not too big or heavy please! Thank you for the help in advance, love the show.
I mentioned this in another comment, but if you want something of similar quality, the Rike Hummingbird is just fantastic, and comes with a bonus of being pocketable with a milled titanium pocket clip if you don't want to use the neck holster. They have crazy flamboyant colors but also a simple gray matte titanium version. 1.3" Damasteel blade. Ti framelock flipper. Kydex neck holster. Yeah, it's $135, but it's not for lack of refinement.
@@lordirek1 Thanks for type suggestion, but I’m looking for something in the micro category similar to the WE Quark, which honestly there may not be anything else out there to compete with it.
@@gladius1275 no worries, the entire thing is maybe 1.5 times the size of the quark when closed. The quark is very small. There's not much that meets that size requirement out there, side from another quark.
@@lordirek1 You are likely right, but I like the idea of a usable knife necklace that is jewelry quality. Wish there were more like it. It’s also a way for me to carry another knife on me! 😆
@@gladius1275 just looked up the specs, overall size of the quark outside the sheath is 1.5 inches, Hummingbird is 2.3 inches closed. So almost exactly 1.5 times the size. Interestingly, it weighs only 2/3 as much as the quark. It's also much skinnier. But it does lack that kind of pendant presentation the quark has. Without knowing what it is, the quark can pass for a necklace. The hummingbird really can't. Yeah, I'm not sure there's any real comparable option for that, especially not one in a premium steel.
My s30v buck 112 is my edc. Easy to bring back to razor sharp. I love that steel
Steels can absolutely become obsolete. For people buying a new knife at prices that never stop going up. Why would you buy a lesser steel for the same relative price. The issue is when a trendy name steel is percieved as better when it really only excels in one category. Steels like S30V are good because it is a well rounded steel. Good corrosion resistance, edge retention, toughness. It's not to say a new steel won't come along that is a better mix, and when that happens, people will gravitate towards the better steel.
Mostly steels are 'different' rather than better. Super toughness, never ending edge retention, ultra stainless. Then there's things like ease of sharpening to factor in. Honestly the masses don't know enough about steel to make an educated decision on steel. Which is why trendy steels like Magnacut (which is a great steel) reign supreme. Not because they understand the attributes of the steel, but because it's got a good name and some 'buzz' in the knife community.
Lastly I think liner locks frame locks still exist in high end knives because they're easy to make. Not because they're better. They are the worst locks of whats available. But they're simple, so they are favored by makers.
Liner locks are universally garbage.
Liner locks and frame locks are very easy and smooth to operate, pretty reliable when done well, can last pretty long, easy to maintain and repair and resistant to mud. It is not my favorite type of lock but I like it much more than back lock (or its triad lock variant). Cross bar locks (like axis lock) are good at almost everything but spring breakage is a real issue. So my favorite is probably a button lock, with cross bar and frame/liner lock close behind.
This Brings to mind the last interaction I had with your website after watching you TH-cam….. ka-bar snake bite or something like that,,, Sweet looking blade
I can’t remember if it was you guys. but, I wouldn’t be surprised if that new crossbar lock ka - bar you guys showed became a hit as well
Another great video. I did however notice you called the spyderco a dragonfly. It is actually the Ladybug.
I thought the ULU was going to be the Non-Tactical Tactical knife! Fixed blade, solid grip, full wrap-around finger guards with quick deployment.
I should not be allowed to voice my opinion on these matters. Would make many things be considered dangerous. ;)
Whoever wrote that question into you guys about S30V not being premium anymore and possibly replacing D2 on the budget end of knives is absolutely delusional and probably just got into the hobby within the last month. S30V is absolutely still a premium steel, and any steel that was once considered a "super steel" doesn't just lose that labeling because several better (arguably) super steels have entered the market as well. Just because we have Rex121, 20CV, and Vanax Superclean doesn't mean that S30V's characteristics, are somehow not premium anymore. What's even more condescending is that those same people claim edge retention is the do all, be all of importance in terms of steel selection, however they feel that S35VN and S45VN are superior steels to S30V. The latter of the bunch has far better edge retention than the other two, and S35/45VN were only created as options for S30V fans/users but with the slight retraction in edge retention qualities in order to increase toughness (less chippy) and stainless qualities. Insane to think that S30V is not a super steel anymore.
What happens to old knives that go unsold? Some companies make an extraordinary amount of different models and I can't imagine they all get purchased. What happens to the leftovers?
They go on sale cheaper and cheaper until the sell
Yes S30V is still good. 420hc is still good. 8crv is still good. 440 a and c are still good. What is not good is "super steels" that you can't sharpen to a great edge with just a couple of swipes and that cause knives to cost so much that you can use them because your afraid to mess it up. In turn you pull out your Buck 420hc blade and get the job done. Also all these super steels are prevent many of us from getting to enjoy cool knife designs. For example the Benchmade Bugout is over $150 dollars. Build one with 420hc or D2 and many of us at $50 dollars could buy and enjoy it. I bet most knife folks enjoy sharpening when its easy.
I am a 91 year old knife guy and I can't remember when i want interested in knives ,I recall when 440c was the be all end all was 440c ,now it is a nothing kind of steel.My question is about 440a .it is said to have decent edge retention good toughness good rust proofness and yet it is considered a very low ed steel ,.It will be found on knives nite the lower price range .I have 440a that are very good n some that are crap ,probably depending on th heat treat ? My favorite is Bucks 420 hc I with Bucks famous heat treat it is her to beat
I remember when D2 was high end. Look at it now, and it's still good....
Question, we talk about blade steel being corrosion resistant, but what about the rest of the metal on the knife? Screws, lock backs etc? Is it all made out of the same thing? Or will the rest rust….
Really good point and the answer is that it's completely up to the manufacturer to decide what hardware (screws, bolts, pivots, spacers, etc.) to use. As a general statement, most knives (fixed & folding) are assembled with generic stainless steel hardware. (This may be polished, anodised or blackened etc. to suit the blade.) This is good as this makes most hardware 'reasonably' stainless for most uses - but will still corrode especially if exposed to wet/humid environments. Thankfully there are options. 1) Knives made specifically for wet environments often have ultra-stainless hardware. eg. I have a Spyderco Caribbean - both the blade & the hardware are LC200N steel offering exceptional corrosion resistance even in salt water. 2) Many premium & custom blades are made with titanium or other metals that offer superior corrosion resistance. If you require all round corrosion resistance, some quick enquiries will let you know if the hardware is as good as the blade steel. Have a great day.
My Manix is made with S30V and it's held up awesomely.
Hi DCA and Team! Question (to the whole team...why not right?) So... ya'll have done the question of one knife and such... I want to pose... not necessarily one knife... but one EDC knife... could be fixed or folding... you can have others for other reasons...camping , bushcraft and so on but if you were to pick one EDC fixed or folding... what are you going for?
Could you please explain detent in detail. I hear many adjectives to describe how the detent is on a specific knife and it leaves me in the dark.
Thank you very much for your informative videos.
Rick
Only steel I ever actually wanted in particular is LC200n cause I live near the ocean. I REALLY wanted camping knives in S35VN but in the end opted for ESEE's in 1095 (Venom Green Junglas and Venom Green ESEE 4) cause at the end of the day I care more about customer reviews and customer service than stats on paper.
Hi David,
What three pocket knives would you choose, if you could only have 3 pocket knives?
Hi David,
What are 3 recommendations for a good beater pocket knife?
Hey DCA, very serious question for you (and more importantly Thomas). I’m looking for an EDC cheese knife. The kind with the little forky bit on the end so I can tactically eat my cheese on the go. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Google forky
Not sure if that's the best use Moore's Law since that pertains to electronics getting more compact due to dies getting smaller. Planned obsolescence I think would be better suited when talking about the lifespan of electronics. Plus I think materialism plays a huge part, I know people that keep the same phone for 5+ years at a time and other's that just wanna get the latest and greatest every new model. Same goes with knives, in all actuality everyone could be fine with just 1 folder and 1 fixed blade. Instead we go crazy when a new version or model is released when at the end of the they all do the same thing... which is cut.
You're not wrong on planned obsolescence, but there's also multiple factors to consider, especially within the computer space. The amount of data used in day to day life climbs almost logarithmically, which drives the older technology further and further into obsolescence. Also, processing requirements, power requirements, and just plain user experience and desire. Yeah, all things considered your old 720p monitor still works, but with the age of 8k dawning, users would consider it generally a non-starter.
@@lordirek1 Don’t disagree that computers have improved performance exponentially however calling 8k the starting point is a bit much even 4K really isn’t necessary. I think 1080 should be the standard. I have a rig with an i5-8600k, 1060 and 16Gb that I built in 2017 and I’m still able to game on it with medium settings. All I’ve upgraded was the size of my SSD since now it’s way cheaper to get a 1TB SSD than it was back then. Ultimately it’s a personal preference and people are free to do with their money as they please.
@@CarvingSteel oh 8k is absolutely NOT the starting point, you are 100% correct. It's just that if that is now the "top tier" that's commercially available, the data used in day to day applications and gaming, for example, is going to catch up. It's like trying to run premium applications on even ten year olds machines, it's just not viable. Ten years ago 720 was still a normal screen res, 60hz high end (120 was basically king, but almost nobody had it), and the games and applications of the time reflected that. Now Call of Duty is optimized for 4k 60hz, and up to 120 if your equipment can handle it. And the file sizes and processing power required reflect that. You couldn't run the current COD on most 2013 PCs, at least not without it being so basic as to be missing all its textures. It's also why prebuilts are always on clearance within 6 months, they just don't match what people want, because the newer and better is going to be the new standard soon. It's just an arms race. Knife steels, though... Well, I don't think the requirements change much. Cutting cardboard has been the same since the 70s haha. In fact, aside from certain specific applications, the vast majority of people can get by with a simple 420hc folder like a buck 110, and that's been around for more than half a century. Try using a 2010 laptop as your primary computer nowadays, it's very frustrating, even if it's been updated.
@@lordirek1 Yeah maybe comparing electronics to knife steel wasn’t even that good of a comparison to begin with haha.
@@CarvingSteel true enough.
Thanks David, these videos always make my day!cheers
Perfect knife example of “if it works well, it doesn’t matter if the materials are older” - Mora.
The problem i am having is how do we actually know that we are getting the type of steel that the these companies say that are in there knives?
I’ve had a few that upon comparing them to the same steel on my other knives and it is absolutely a different steel and performs and sharpens completely different and it’s pretty disappointing when you spend $100/$200 dollars on a knife and this is where I’m hesitant to purchase what they call budget knives and what company is actually trustworthy to give you what they say it is on without spending $200/$300 dollars and then just spending big money on a knife doesn’t always work either so how do we really know
Different heat treat prices will yield different results. Almost all knife companies are well above board with using the steel they claim. All your major players have too much to lose with a scandal like that. So you're probably safe with all American made, all European made, all Japanese made, and when it comes to Chinese made, stick to stuff under the We or Artisan or Reate banners and you'll definitely be safe. Just be aware that heat treat and edge geometry are at least as important as steel choice itself.
Most serious question. What was the steel on Bilbo Baggins famous sword Sting?
Elfmax.
Guest host? That would be an awesome prize giveaway. Y'all should run a contest. (Maybe a video submission to ensure the guest host is photogenic. 😂) Love the content and appreciate all the hard work. Thank you.
Hi DCA and Thomas, while looking online for HRC vs toughness for 14C28N, i've noticed it has a very broad spectrum of hrc, from 55 to 62. Is there a reason why we dont see this steel harnened to 62 hrc? Thank!
As the hardness goes up, the toughness goes down, generally. The Sandvik is very tough, that's a major strength in the Bushcraft/survival community. Hardening to the limit will negate a lot of that toughness and it'll get kind of chippy, making it less good at its primary intended purpose. Most steels have that trade off, which is why Magnacut is such a big deal. It's supposed to be able to be hardened to 63-64 with minimal loss of toughness, making it a phenomenal edge holder with a wide range of applications, while still nearly equaling the stainlessness of lc200n, which is just crazy.
Knives don’t become obsolete.
1) if the quality is good, the quality is good.
2) if you know how to and when you are supposed to use a knife for a particular task, then you are good to go.
3) the whole concept of “obsolete” is for knife makers, because they have to deal with competitors and they have to bring innovation for certain type of buyers. Not all buyers.
Spyderco Amalgam s30v great knife
@KnifeCenter: DCA - What is a "tactical" knife? Is that just a synonym for "folding figh thing knife" or "knife sutiable for self defence"? I hear reference to the genre nearly every Knife Center FAQ and many new release round up videos. Can you define this term and some of the characteristics/tasks/uses for a tactical (or even a tacti-cool) knife?
When I hear "tactical knife" I think that a tactical knife is a knife that can be used in a tactical situation, which I think of as a battlefield or maybe urban combat e.g. swat team, zombie apolcalypse.
So I think robust cord/rope/wire cutter, ration opener, flexi cuff opener, package openener (ammo, batteries, dressings), 100mph tape, burlap/sandbags, removing clothing/footwear (from casualties), carving/whittling - a sort of general purpose field knife that is also useful with things that go "bang!" that maybe in a pinch could be used in a fight - but the fighty part is a secondary or tertiary use.
As far as I am concerned if S30V was ever a "good steel" it is still a good steel today.
the end... 😉
440C is still good
Here's a question: what are some knives you'd recommend for a first titanium frame lock? That's been a hole in my collection for years, and I've been more tempted to get into them recently.
The more "entry level" price the better, but I know that quality ti knives are inherently not cheap.
DCA, I just picked up the awesome CRKT "Clever Girl" Kukri from TKC. I like to think the name comes from an iconic line in a certain Jurassic dinosaur movie. Is that true? Even if not, what knives have interesting stories/origins to their names?
I like this question, seems like there can be a ton of fun answers. Like half of Elijah Isham's designs have cool sci-fi references, Ostap Hel has a few play-on-words names. Knife naming can be very interesting. DCA, please include this one at some point!
@@lordirek1 Appreciate the support!
The name actually was Cleaver Girl whose lineage included Lizzie Borden.
@@jayr526 That's just as good of an origin story. Thanks.
Hi David,
Do pocket knives come with super-steel handle scales?
I might jump in and say 'no' (perhaps excluding some ultra premium or custom knives). Although additional cost would be an issue, it's the physical properties of most 'super steels' that prevent their use outside of cutting edges. Most 'super steels' have a hardness exceeding 60+ (or even 65+) Rockwell and are simply too hard to machine and shape and work into handles. The time and materials required would send the cost of manufacturing through the roof. Further, it would be a waste, most handles do not need the performance of super steel. eg. Why would a handle need to have high wear resistance? Finally, a number of super steels are not corrosion resistant. So, if used, the handles would also be prone to corrosion which would make maintenance just that bit harder. Hope this helps. Have a great day.
Viper Turn all day for the non-tac looking tactical, not just tacti-cool You can flick it open, the blade has a great shape, but you can go from EDC to fancy gent vibe with CF or Ram Horn, or wood...
In my jurisdiction a knife in the pocket is considered a concealed carry and a knife that sticks up is legal carry. :)
S35VN sharpens up razor sharp also, without to much fuss.
35 is probably my facorite knife steel of all.
DCA.....D2 is a tool steel....( commercial cutters , tooling for lathes , mills , grinders ) it its just a great all around knife steel .....Powdered metallurgy alloys go after fine grain sizes and minimized carbide formation.....QUESTION : in a situation of an axial side load......is toughness or strength the predominant attribute to measure ????......
I saw you had two Al Mar knives today. I'm a manager of a cigar shop. I carry a AL Mar Cuban cutter knife most days. I've had it for years. Are there any other companies that make similar knifes? Thank.
Damn that Kershaw iridium looks good
Hey DCA, I was wondering if you could address ceramic kitchen knives. Pros/ cons?
I am going on a trip soon that involves air travel. What is your best suggestion for a TSA safe non-knife, knife replacement?
Hi DCA! I just got a knife I really like, and the blade is in Aus 10. I'd like to know more about that steel, but I'm finding that there's relatively little information. Do you have anything more than "it's like 440C or VG10", which is about all I've found so far. I'm wondering at the usual 3 pillars of steel design - edge holding, toughness, and corrosion resistance. Any info appreciated!
Often a problem when describing performance is assuming others know what you're comparing it to!! Having said that I'm going to start off by saying that AUS-10 is a marginally better steel that AUS-8. There is lots of info on AUS-8 out there so look that up to get a starting point. Keeping it simple, AUS-10 offers better edge retention than AUS-8 (albeit with slightly less toughness but for folding blades that's not an issue). AUS-10 is a good, reliable budget-to-mid end EDC blade steel. Now the 3 pillars - I'll do my best. Edge retention: although better than AUS-8, is low-moderate by today's standards. Will need reasonably regular sharpening with repeated use. While more than suitable for EDC type usage, I wouldn't recommend it for a work or constant use blade. Toughness: moderate. Although dependant on blade design will tolerate some impact and lateral stress. Will roll an edge rather than chip. More than enough toughness for an EDC folding blade. Corrosion resistance: good. Has both chromium & nickel in its composition. Suitable for all but the most humid & environments providing you follow basic maintenance. Finally, I add one other pillar - Ease of Sharpening: with a Rockwell usually between 58-60 and its fine carbide structure, AUS-10 is generally easy to sharpen and will easily take a keen sharp edge. Responds well to stropping. So even though it may require regular sharpening, at least it won't be hard to do. Hope this helps. Have a great day.
DCA and Thomas both is a legend 🤘🏻
Hmm, the Twolu is an interesting option for a Pizza cutter. So if you added a third section it coulf be the Trilu.. or Bat'Leth too others! Regardless, Qapla' !
I've gotten spoiled on button locks!
Most Serious Request - “Beat the Icon: Carcass Splitter”
Please and thank you.
The best knife for a Pizza Chef to carry is of course the Wenger Bernina 504... only pocket knife I know with a "Pizza-Wheel"
What would you recommend for a gentleman's knife, blade length between 2.5 and 3.25 inches, that has either a button or crossbar lock, for someone who isn't crazy about all the fat carbon, zircu-ti and ti-mascus stuff out there? Preferably no more than $200 (US).
Just bought a knife with a chisel edge has to be one of the sharpest knives from factory ive had.
? Is how does one sharpen such a chiseled edge?
Missed referencing the KaBar 'Za-Saw on the last one, although maybe you passed on it since the EDC utility is nonexistent apart from pizza cutting.
Love that Thomas has an EDCar rotation. I get it.