I appreciate DCA's take on the what's important in a knife. Most people that are 'steel snobs' will probably never use a knife enough to know the difference. I'm sure there are several in the comments.
I have plenty of varieties of the steel alphabet and still my most common use fixed blades are d2, 1095, and even 420hc(gasp!) Because Buck won't make a 101 in S30v! For folding knives I could care less about steel. My s30v, d2, and m4 benchmades all function basically the same. Same for most others. They all get sharp and hold an edge long enough to get me through the day...
@@donnymac575 Doinga lot of box breakdown generally makes it pretty obvious. I'm not saying it's a make or break thing but I notice better steels cutting boxes a lot easier a lot longer. For most common tasks like clamshell packaging, just opening boxes, light food prep any halfways decent steel ends up feeling similar enough.
@@Freakmaster480 I have to agree, cutting cardboard really brings out the difference in edge retention, geometry and how well it was sharpened. You definitely notice a significant difference between 440 and 20cv. But there's no way in hell you would notice a difference between let's say s30v and s35vn unless you're counting how much metres you've cut.
@@NoNamer123456789 You're 100% right. On steels as similar as s30 and s35 i'd be hard pressed to notice the differemce even if I was actively looking for it.
I remember when S30V was the steel everybody wanted, it's funny that people seem to look down on it now. I have a bugout in S30V & I think it's a great steel.
Knife steels are like knife geometries, that are purpose driven for a particular focus. Metal composition and heat treatment for blade steels, affects edge retention/wear, toughness, corrosion resistance, and ease of resharpening/machining. S30V is imo the current leader in lower cost (once costly in it's introduction) powder super steels that favors edge retention for general material cutting - while S35VN is for those for more demanding cutting tasks for more toughness and corrosion resistance.
This channel is so great because of David and Thomas’s knowledge/passion being made so evident. Definitely a couple of knife bros just talking about knives that they love and know all about. Edited to include our King, Seth
You were correct...in my head I thought of geometry as both shape and edge geometry..but yours is better. And also I 100% agree with your list. What was good about this answer..is that we get sooo hung up on blade steel..that we miss the important stuff.
👍 very informative video. I particularly liked your ranking of the features of a knife. Steels, steels, steels. The explorers, settlers, and indigenous peoples in the 1700 and 1800 survived with much lower quality steels than we have available today. ALL knives become dull, many when you need them most; so, to me a “super steel” is one that is relatively easy to sharpen in the field or at home with a modest set of wet stones.
I had a good chuckle over your intro comments. Regarding S30V, I have carried a 940 with M4 for a number of years. It's a great knife that holds an incredible edge. (Yes, I actually use a premium knife as an EDC rather than keeping it in a dark safe.) The 940 was trying to creep out of the shallow pocket in my shorts last summer. Rather than lose it I bought a Benchmade North Fork. It is shorter and fits in the shallow pocket without pumping out. It uses S30V. In comparison, I like it and have continued to carry it during jeans season. It holds a respectable edge and takes far less effort to resharpen. While everything can usually improve, I think S30V is certainly a technological plateau for everyday knife usage. It checks a lot of boxes for an ordinary knife.
Hello DCA, Seth and Knifecenter- what are some of the most underlooked/least popular folders that cause you to wonder why? There are knives that I have looked at over years and never pulled the trigger - I wonder why myself! For example I have looked at Benchmade Presidio for a couple years now and have never purchased it. It seems like Hogue doens't get the recognition they deserve.
S35vn wasn't developed as an upgrade to the user. It might've been eventually marketed that way because it's a hair tougher, but it wasn't the original focus. It was developed as a steel that was similar enough to S30v that it wouldn't rock the boat too much as far as the end user was concerned (who was used to S30v) but was easier to work with from a manufacturing standpoint. Easier to machine or whatever. I'd never consider S30v as "cheaping out". They're both fairly balanced and totally cool. Truthfully though, if I wanted freakish edge retention, I wouldn't be choosing either one. And if I wanted freakish toughness, I also wouldn't be choosing either one. So thinking of it that way, there's not a whole lot of reason to differentiate the 2. Of course I just differentiated the 2 anyway, because I'm a fool who needs therapy.
I think the question about Spyderco locks was referring to their classic back locks and the little flicks of the wrist some people use to start closing the blade.
Mr. Andersen, lots of fun as always - thank you. As for elements of a knife and their order of importance, I am thoroughly convinced that context is everything. For the last few years I've been living on a Caribbean island, close to South America. It's hot every day. It's humid every day. And the ocean is less than a mile away, so there's a fair amount of salt in the air. Steel choice has become REALLY important to me, because even steels that seemed very stain-resistant Stateside are prone to rusting here. I've developed quite an affection for 440C and N690, drool over anything made with LC200N, and am ogling Magnacut HARD. None of these were top of my list in terms of steel preferences before the move, but they all offer the thing I value most right now - resistance to rusting.
Charles Collier:- If rust resistance is of primary concern, then check out non ferrous metals, where iron is not incorporated into the mix. Spyderco has several.
@@blueeyeswhitedragon9839 absolutely. I've been less than excited about H1 because it's so soft, but I've been all over their LC200N offerings and I can't WAIT for the Magnacut Native 5 to drop!
Thanks for all of your content. I look forward to your shows every week. The funny banter between you and Thomas is so fun to watch. I've learned so much from watching all of your shows. So thank you very much and keep it coming!!!
Another question. I’m a steel nerd like you DCA, however I’m still in the dark a little. It appears like the steel selection comes down to what you want to do with the knife. Could you recommend your first choice of steel for the following knifes Heavy chopper- Kitchen slicer- Heavy use tactical/survival- Light use grail EDC-
The importance of nailing the heat treatment can't be overstated. Many high volume Brands go far softer than is ideal for optimal performance. This is done for financial reasons. The ratios are built in considering the amount of cost servicing their warranty. There are lots of small little known shops with decades of experience with 1095, 440c that preform edge to edge with the snob steel's. I have suggested a " hardline " option where they push the steel to get the most out of it. And adjust the warranty accordingly. In my 50+ years I have come to believe 1095, 440c,52100 properly heat treated will be more than sufficient for 98% of people. An argument could be made for LC2000 for coastal residents as well respectively.
Hi DCA, first of all thanks for all the great content from both you and KnifeCenter as a whole. Without getting too political, I sometimes hesitate to buy knives made in China due to some of the labor concerns there. I'd like to say that the quality manufacturers avoid unethical practices, but it is difficult to make an informed decision. I just ordered knives from Artisan Cutlery (Small Archaeo with damascus and pakkawood) and Kizer Cutlery (Lieb with the brown micarta) partially based on some of your content, and it got me thinking about this question. Thank you! For that matter, I'd also like to hear any thoughts the other commenters/community has on this.
Agree that edge geometry is vastly superior to steel type. I look for thinness behind the edge since most of my cuts prefer clean laser cuts vs rough push cuts
I've brought plenty of machetes and the such on airplanes. It just has to be a checked bag. I've been all over the united States with my camping/back packing gear, which includes plenty of things "not allowed" on the plane, but it's only not allowed if you're trying to take it on your person or carry on.
Hey DCA, great stuff as always. So speaking of blade steels, do you agree or disagree with the ratings and rankings over at bhq? Would really love to see y'all do your own version over at knife center, as theirs is a bit outdated and there's a lot it doesn't cover. Plus, I'm sure you'd get really into the weeds here which I love. Also would love to see y'all do a video on which steels are best for different tasks, maybe discuss your preference angle-wise for various purposes.
David and Thomas, thanks for the videos. I need a knife for my dog. Something small and light with good sheath retention that can be attached to his collar or harness. Bonus points if it has a bottle opener.
I decided to to buy an EDC folding knife. I spend 2-weeks learning “knife jargon”, then metal types, lock differences, “opening and closing” features and features. I benefited from watching a lot of videos on different topics you made DCA, therefore a deserved thank you to you. One seemingly obvious oversight to the discussion of knives found on UTUBE is the “hand size” width and length from “tip of middle index finger to base” of palm. Looking at knives omitting size is like buying Shoes and never knowing the foot size of the customer. An not infrequent comment in posts is that customers are disappointed in their purchases because the knife doesn’t fit the hand or accommodate a glove. With the 2 hand dimensions I have mentioned, particularly “Palm Width”, knives can be ranked as Poor, Questionable, Realistic, You Got It. These are critical knife handle length and probable Thumb fit. If a buyer can “Palm a Basketball” or wears winter gloves or a glove for protection regularly, a lot of EDC knives are not appropriate regardless of quality, aesthetics, durability, or cost. …… Just sayin …
Bencmades s30v is awesome! Spydercos was a pain in the ass to sharpen for me and I got pretty much the same edge retention out of both. Both did chip at first though. My cf elite Presidio 2 chipped the tip and the PM2 chipped all over it hitting metal and such on accident. The Presidio 2 was from a drop. After switching to Spydercos 20 cv I will never go back to that S class. So fricken nice and I don’t lose that much edge so it look’s good a lot longer.
You recently did a video featuring higher-end EDC knives. One of the things you mentioned was features you can find on a higher-end knife that makes them really special that you can't get on more budget friendly, or attainable, knives. I'm wondering about knives that are the opposite (sort of): Budget knives that have features that make them really special that you don't see on more expensive knives.
My take on this one would be that cheaper knives tend to have pvc washers instead of ball bearings which makes them alot more resistant to sand and dirth. And mby the fact that u can use em as hard as u want and Don't have to care alot about it.
In the second to last question about spyderco locks i think he was referring to the way people like erik glesser close LOCKBACKS one-handed by depressing the lock back and letting the ricasso fall onto his finger.
DCA I think you may have missed the one handed one finger close knife thing. I thought they were asking about a lock back where you stop the closing blade action with your index finger then finish closing the knife. Maybe that is when people think their finger is in real danger.
A wonderfully insightful presentation as always chaps, thank you! Question for the show; if you were buying a big hard use Bowie for bushcraft, what would you go with? I understand the traditional Bowie wasn’t made for bushcraft, but with the evolution of materials, I wondered which model/manufacturer makes one capable of some fire prep and outdoor tasks? Many thanks, as always, for the superb content!
I'm a knife steel nerd, but I love 80crv2,154 cm,S30V and a good Sandvick steel it all depends on what I'm using the knife for.I would take any real loveless design as a dream knife.
So … on the topic of super steels … what is your opinion on the very new, amazing, CPM Magnacut steel? Supposedly you can use in in a stunningly broad range of knife applications … from folders to choppers … to slicers… Lionsteel is looking into creating a fixed blade knife in this steel for 2022 according to the DBK guys based in that big European knife show held in March.
DCA, as the man in front of the camera is obviously important. He brings knowledge and wisdom both, at least enough to be valuable to hold a bladed tool discussion. However, I'd like to throw some gratitude to the man behind the camera and in front of the editing: Thomas is also a profoundly important part of Knifecenter having such a successful and important TH-cam channel. There are other knife stores which offer good service and pricing, but all of their YT channels appear to be run by people over their head in terms of professionalism. Well done, gentlemen.
I personally am a big steel nerd and my favorite type is fully stainless aka lc200n, vanax, h1 and now recently apparently magnacut. I think these steels are absolute Marvels! I think all steel companies and knife companies should focus on these type of steels since those steels have only 2 upgrades necessary. It used to be balance between 3 legs, hardness, toughness and stainless. If we further develop these steels, there are only 2 things to upgrade and not have to worry about stainless anymore
I think Harry Crab was talking about the way people disengage spyderco backlocks with one hand. It's how Eric closes them, and I think I remember a blade/shot show video where he actually cut himself doing it.
I remember that 😅 He cut himself on a Spyderco Siren which doesn’t have the forward finger choil. He’s so used to doing that, he forgot which knife he was handling. But I also close my Spyder lockbacks like that. Just keep the index finger high and let that be the first thing the choil/recasso hit. No issues when you get the hang of it. Cheers!
I respectfully have to disagree with you on your hierarchy of knife needs #1 and #2. Geometry should be first before heat treatment. You mentioned stone knives, but there were bronze and iron tools for most of recorded human history. A good heat treat is good for edge retention, but a mild steel knife can still cut things. If you grind a blade thin enough, like Opinel, it can cut cardboard even when the edge has been completely worn dull because of its thin geometry. A knife without cutting geometry just isn't a knife though.
I have bargain bin S&W knives I've had since I was a teenager that I've never cleaned or maintained with barely any signs of rust and I've had new knives from reputable companies like CRKT come right out of the box with as much rust as my 10 year old Ford. I'm pretty bare bones with my requirements because in my view, so long as a knife doesn't corrode just because I looked at it funny, has a solid lockup, and it has a straight edge (I simply don't have the patience to resharpen a serrated blade), then I think it's a perfectly acceptable knife for me.
Hey DCA: can you compare CPM MagnaCut to Elmax in terms of performance (toughness, hardness, Wear resistance, and corrosion resistance.) Sidenote: thanks to you and Thomas for all you do. These weekly video blogs are extremely helpful and I've learned a lot!
Hello DCA, Thanks for the excellent content. Looking to get my wife her first EDC knife. Main uses would be opening packages and cutting up food for our daughter while out and about. My current short list are the CIVIVI elementum in purple or the Gerber Armbar slim cut. A fun color is not essential but appearing non threatening is a major factor for her as she is only somewhat comfortable with the idea and I think the color of the elementum or the multitool nature of the armbar slim aid in that department. Any other suggestions or tips to pass along to her to feel more comfortable with the idea.
Yes grab her a sub 3 inch pink "Domin Mini" from Kizer Cutlery ($55) or a purple CIVIVI like the non locking slip joint "Appalachian Drifter 2" or the "Elementum" or the new "Baby Banter" is probably the best
I'm pretty sure that the "one handed close" refers to something like the delica where you push the backlock and flick the blade toward your hand to start it closing.
Hey DCA! There are many different settings that knives are specifically designed for such as office EDC, bushcraft, etc. While there is no knife that is good for every task there are some that have a “well rounded” design that works well in multiple roles and situations. Your mission should you choose to accept it is to name one folder and one fixed blade that is the most versatile and well rounded for as many tasks you can think of.
Fixed blade: I removed the pocket clip and thumbstud from an SR 1 Lite and I tell you in use it feels like a fixed blade. Can’t say the same for the folding Becker BK40 - it’s just not nearly as robust, even though those Becker lines need handle feel rock. Of course for either we would still need to open them without fumbling them and dropping, which is much less a problem with a fixie, where we can get, and keep, a solid grip. Much more an issue with a folder; it’s too bad no one makes a sheath for the SR 1 Lite in opened mode.
I have a Benchmade Bushcrafter 162 in CPM S30V and it has amazing edge retention, easy to sharpen, excellent corrosion resistance, and it is reasonably tough and doesn’t chip. I have used it often over the two years that I have owned it. I believe my knife’s performance is mainly due to the superior heat treatment that Benchmade does. I can compare this knife to my lionsteel M2M and M4 fixed blade knives in M390.
I think the Spyderco one finger chopping opening action that was mentioned was about a back lock, not a compression lock. I know the move he means - depressing the back lock and flipping it half closed, then snapping it closed while moving finger out of the way.... Yeah! People do do the "back lock disengagement whip" while the other fingers are totally in the blade path,holding the knife! Yes, I squirmed the first time I saw that, too!
Hey DCA and grumble grumble from one Thomas to another. I've been getting the Kizer Infinity in black micarta recently. I really love the action and fidget ability of it and the blade shape is great for everything I need (destroying zip ties, Ethernet cables, packaging and lunch). Are there any other knives with a similar blade shape and micarta or G10 scales that you can recommend for sub-$100 and sub-$250? Thanks for the great content as always!
I've heard the reason for developing S35VN was, S30V is much harder to machine. So in order to ease the production they created something other. So, S35VN is not better, it's just different.
@@eugenevictortooms4174 yes totally agree. Mine came with dull edge too. It will need to be sharpened, but for the price of only 30 bucks, it’s amazing beater lightweight knife that can do most camping, common tasks, maybe not well but good enough. What do you think?
Great job on your hierarchy DCA! Yes, heat treat is much more important than blade steel...sorry S30/35/40V and other super steel fans. Perfect example is the Buck 420HC Bos heat treated blades.
What I have heard about mirror polish affecting a blade’s performance only has to do with the cutting edge itself. If the edge is mirror polished, the carbides (microscopic teeth that make the knife cut) become so small that it actually slices with less efficiency. However, the fine edge allows for better push cuts when carving wood, since you push the blade through the material like a chisel. Non-mirror polished knives can carve wood without problem, of course, but a mirror polished edge performs best. As far as the grind goes, a mirror polish is strictly for display, as far as I know.
The hierarchy of needs is a good way to put it. I think heat treat is way lower, depending on what you are doing. Mine are: 1. blade geometry, 2. Shape that matches purpose. 3. Ergos. 4. Sheath/carry method. 5. Heat treat. 6. Handle material. 7. blade steel. Great question!!!
Good Heat treatment is the number one thing you need with any type of steel. Any steel with a poor heat treatment is worse than the cheapest steel treated properly.
Hey, David, I’m getting interested in slipjoints, but don’t know anything about them. Will you kindly give a short presentation on the different types of slipjoints (trapper, stockman, etc) and what their blade shapes are called and designed for? Thanks.
It's easy to fall into this super steel knife enthusiast game but I want a beater knife with good edge retention that's easy to sharpen I keep falling back on a bigger 1095 blade for heavy use and a USA buck for cutting skinning tasks
Don't know if this helps, but a relatively economical choice, with decent steel, and absolutely phenomenal ergonomics is the CRKT Fossil series. I have both the serrated and plain edge. When you say beater knife, man you can do damn near everything any four inch knife can do, and they are folders. The geometry, balance, strength, and the amazingly well designed grip just give so many advantages for way under $100, than almost any manufacturer. No hot spots, no slipperiness, front and rear jimping, flipper style ball bearing pivot, with an extremely well contoured thumb and choil notch, and about the only complaint is that the stupid clip location is prone to snagging seatbelts. Very few folders (with much higher pricetags) are as just all around useful and practical as the Fossil. The cadillac of beater entry knives. And yes, if they simply made it a fixed blade, it would almost perfect. Just my opinion. But I spend some thirty to forty hours a week behind all different types of blades for a living. Many knives are okay for purpose, but only very few hit all the marks of (nearly) flawless capability. CRKT got it right with this Ikoma design. _______ EDIT: went out and got another CRKT Fossil, at Walmart, $50, just to see if that theory is valid. Turns out yes, you can have a great do-all kinfe for half the price of a tank of gas...
Axis lock with 154cm is tough to beat. I log for a living a have a BM Barrage in 154 that I absolutely abuse. Tough ass knife that isn't too expensive and fairly easy to sharpen. Think Hogue is doing a great version too. Check em out.
I'd love to see a cold steel fixed blade Kris. I really respect them playing with that blade shape, I'd love to see a more traditional stiletto with that flamberge style blade, and either a fixed voyager Kris or a 4 inch fixed blade ti-lite would be gorgeous.
Love the knife nerding in all its glory. I've just recently started to venture into folding knives, and especially flippers. But my question is about D2. It seems to be the steel to frown upon, but how bad is it? I sharpen my own knives when necessary, but it seems to me that edge retention is OK on D2. Some say it is harder to sharpen than some other steels, but is it that tough? And what about toughness? Is it really THAT brittle? Stain resistance is good, isn't it? So... bad or just not as good as the current state of the art?
Intersting take on the "knife priorities" here, although i find it arguable that geometry may actually come before heat treating. I mean some knives are made out of austenitic steels that can't be hardened at all, others are not even made out of steel (there are ceramic, tungsten carbide and even plastic blades). Yet in certain contexts, they are perfectly legitimate cutting tools. Once again, it's indeed a matter of context.
Hi DCA - Over the past few months I have purchased several knives from Knife Center based on your New Knives reviews. Unfortunately, I had to return 3 knives due to significant manufacturing defects. First knife, blade was off-center, so much so that the blade was rubbing against the liner. Second knife, detent was so stiff that the knife would not flip open. Third knife ( replacement of knife #2), detent was also too stiff. Also, after a few days of two-handed opening and closing, the blade moved way off center. So, do knife collectors just accept poor manufacturing and a lack of quality control, or is my experience an anomaly? New Knife Day should be something we look forward to, but my experience has made me question if I want to continue in this hobby. Thanks for your consideration.
Sounds like you got some lemons But I think since the world went to crap lately that quality control is terrible I'm not being mean but Dca is a natural salesman and that's his job it's not his fault quality control is crap but all knives should be tested for fit and finish before they ship from The Seller especially a reputable place like knife center. May GOD Bless You And Keep You.
You have to 'break in' & tune up or sharpen a knife just like a ton of other things from shoes to cars. You could have likely fixed all of those things, in about 10 minutes.
Hi DCA ! I have modded an Opinel n°10 (making it a tanto, milling the handle to have a seatbelt-cutter and thinning the handle) and I'm not satisfied with its handling. The blade is really slicy but lack edge retention. I EDC a beater fixed blade (Real Steel Cormorant), and I need a slicier folder. The Opinel is 2.1mm thick (0.082 inches), so I think I need a thin high full-flat grind, 3.5 inches to preferably 4, if possible in D2 or upper in edge-retention. Budget is 70 dollars max, give or take. But it can be way lower (D2 can be a bargain these days) ^^ A french fellow knife beater
Almost everything in Benchmades lineup has a purpose outside of collecting. And in doing so it standardizes their knives and lineup. s30v is and has been the premium every day steel for the every day user that everyone can work with. Same thing goes with 154cm and (cpm)D2 is good for military that are going to go through days and nights without touching it up and it still are able to work on it with the most minimum kind of supplies (I've touched up blades on a cinder block or rock before). Even the hunt series they're knowing exactly what would be preferred for the task at hand. They're not creating something with the mindset of it to be collected. They're creating something with the mindset to be *used*. And then they throw in a couple mixed bags on old classics (m4,cruware,etc) Unfortunately the knife community is so warped in their idea's about steels, without having any first hand experience with them that 99% don't actually use, to actually know what's good or not in todays day and age. They go off some wierd web page or youtube telling them "Oh you want a hard use? get this! You want tactical? Get that! You want the perfect EDC? This is your choice". And then you have Steels like s30v that no matter what you say can still perform the job 99.9999999% of the time every other steel can. It's really a super sad state of affairs to be honest.
Hi David (and Seth), My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question: I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features: 1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard") 2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong) 3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it... 4) About 3" or more Blade Length 5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly. 6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip 7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each. Thanks so much!
What the intended use is would determine the order I think. My edc is used for simple tasks like making a cut on tape to open a box. By and large, It is a backup for my pistol. It’s primarily for defense. So, speed of deployment is number one. Blade length and cutting ability number two. Then the rest of characteristics.
This question is really about a lot of different products, but here goes. Why do manufacturers only make a limited number of certain knives when the demand is clearly there. I'm talking about the Paysan, Slyz Bowie, CRK Wilson Combat Sebenza, etc. These knives instantly get a premium added on the secondary market because they don't make enough.
Hey, hey DCA! Can anyone design a knife? Whether fixed or folder and it be a "successful" tool in sales and actual use... Also, loved the out-tro when Thomas grabbed his ZT off the table!
I did manage to shave the tip off my pinky with my Para 3 when I was flipping it closed and I wasn’t paying attention to where the fleshy bit at the end of my pinky was. Just the first layer of skin, but it still stung a bit.
S30V is my favorite steel. Benchmades S30V does usually need a couple sharpenings in my few examples to get over chipping but will eventually hold an edge as well or better than Spyderco S30V, except for the Sage 5, S30V, which their taiwanese factory nailed the heat treat on.
Yes the bush ranger is based on one of there older fixed blade models. I forget who did the designing for cold steel for that. But I'm pretty sure it wasn't Demko.
I've heard many stainless steels referred to as "being tough" - 14c28n, S35VN, 4116, 420HC - all called "tough steels". I'm curious about which one, in your opinion, is the toughest stainless steel in a bushcraft/survival situation. Folder, or fixed blade, edge retention or ease of sharpening - doesn't matter, just which one is toughest. I don't mind having to sharpen it, but I do mind if it breaks. Thanks in advance and love what you and Thomas do! P.S. Knife nerds rule!
DAC risking light bulb burn to bring us these great videos. What dedication! As for folders as fixed blade the Spyderco Resilience and Civivi Mastodon come to mind.
I brought a handful of Masai machetes back to the US from Kenya in my check luggage no problem. I took a fixed blade and a few folders from the US to there in my check luggage. Shouldn't have any problem.
DCA, the current Cold Steel Bush Ranger was inspired by the original fixed blade version made many years ago. Cold Steel made them in AUS8A and Carbon V. I still have mine in Carbon V.
Why don't more manufacturers make pocket knives with spear point blades, kind of like the Victorinox spear point but larger? I am referring to something like the GEC 15 or the blade used on the old TL-29 Electrician's knives. Years ago this used to be one of the most common blade shapes used on stockman and barlow style knives, but almost none of the budget companies make anything like this anymore for under $50
Great content as usual guys. I have a "classic" Esse 5. Is there an advantage to getting the 3D handles? I've seen other vids about this would like your opinion thanks.
Think it boils down to what's comfortable to you in your hand. I have an Esee 6 that I replaced the micarta scales with contoured g10 ones which I prefer much more.
Hi. Looking to put together a camping knife compliment. I rarely camp solo, so my wife would have a knife as well. The thought of one knife forever makes me shudder a little. I have a Cold Steel SRK-C, I would like to get a Condor Bushcraft parang, as a chopper. This leaves me wanting a better edge holding blade. I would love to see the Buck 105 pro in your now well documented hands, for size comparison. Would I be left wanting by not getting the 119? All around camp knife would be it's duties. Also be neat to see other pairings and trios etc, in the comments . Thanks for your thoughts.
Hey DCA and Thomas; what is the best method to clean our knives on a daily basis. Is it acceptable to run under the sink with running water? Will this cause problems with the pivot components like bearings, washers, etc? Is dish soap acceptable as well? I’m always afraid that water will stay in the tight spots and either gum things up or cause rusting etc. Every once in a while I take my knives apart and use alcohol to clean and then follow with minimal lube. Thanks guys.
Hello DCA, I want a nice EDC fixed blade that would mostly be doing kitchen-like tasks, as well as it being a knife that I can pass down to my children. Preferably under $200. Any suggestions? Thanks, keep up the great content.
I appreciate DCA's take on the what's important in a knife. Most people that are 'steel snobs' will probably never use a knife enough to know the difference. I'm sure there are several in the comments.
Totally agree. I can't tell the difference between 8crmov, d2, s30v, elmax, vg10, etc. As long as they're sharp and can cut down a box I'm good.
I have plenty of varieties of the steel alphabet and still my most common use fixed blades are d2, 1095, and even 420hc(gasp!) Because Buck won't make a 101 in S30v! For folding knives I could care less about steel. My s30v, d2, and m4 benchmades all function basically the same. Same for most others. They all get sharp and hold an edge long enough to get me through the day...
@@donnymac575 Doinga lot of box breakdown generally makes it pretty obvious. I'm not saying it's a make or break thing but I notice better steels cutting boxes a lot easier a lot longer. For most common tasks like clamshell packaging, just opening boxes, light food prep any halfways decent steel ends up feeling similar enough.
@@Freakmaster480 I have to agree, cutting cardboard really brings out the difference in edge retention, geometry and how well it was sharpened. You definitely notice a significant difference between 440 and 20cv. But there's no way in hell you would notice a difference between let's say s30v and s35vn unless you're counting how much metres you've cut.
@@NoNamer123456789 You're 100% right. On steels as similar as s30 and s35 i'd be hard pressed to notice the differemce even if I was actively looking for it.
I remember when S30V was the steel everybody wanted, it's funny that people seem to look down on it now.
I have a bugout in S30V & I think it's a great steel.
Marketing. Most people can't tell the difference between S30V and 20CV.
The thing is s30v is still awesome, we’re just too spoiled now
Knife steels are like knife geometries, that are purpose driven for a particular focus.
Metal composition and heat treatment for blade steels, affects edge retention/wear, toughness, corrosion resistance, and ease of resharpening/machining.
S30V is imo the current leader in lower cost (once costly in it's introduction) powder super steels that favors edge retention for general material cutting - while S35VN is for those for more demanding cutting tasks for more toughness and corrosion resistance.
@@ZoneCrasher i use some M390 / 20CV Blades and every one feeled realy soft in use and expecialy in sharpening.
Same with 440C, one of the first cutlery super steels that's still relevant today for edge holding ability and ease of sharpening.
This channel is so great because of David and Thomas’s knowledge/passion being made so evident. Definitely a couple of knife bros just talking about knives that they love and know all about.
Edited to include our King, Seth
You were correct...in my head I thought of geometry as both shape and edge geometry..but yours is better. And also I 100% agree with your list.
What was good about this answer..is that we get sooo hung up on blade steel..that we miss the important stuff.
This obsession with the latest supersteel ... how did we manage to cut anything when 440C and similar was all we had? Might as well stick with flint!
👍 very informative video. I particularly liked your ranking of the features of a knife. Steels, steels, steels. The explorers, settlers, and indigenous peoples in the 1700 and 1800 survived with much lower quality steels than we have available today. ALL knives become dull, many when you need them most; so, to me a “super steel” is one that is relatively easy to sharpen in the field or at home with a modest set of wet stones.
I had a good chuckle over your intro comments. Regarding S30V, I have carried a 940 with M4 for a number of years. It's a great knife that holds an incredible edge. (Yes, I actually use a premium knife as an EDC rather than keeping it in a dark safe.) The 940 was trying to creep out of the shallow pocket in my shorts last summer. Rather than lose it I bought a Benchmade North Fork. It is shorter and fits in the shallow pocket without pumping out. It uses S30V. In comparison, I like it and have continued to carry it during jeans season. It holds a respectable edge and takes far less effort to resharpen. While everything can usually improve, I think S30V is certainly a technological plateau for everyday knife usage. It checks a lot of boxes for an ordinary knife.
I have the North Fork and I love it. The jimping is great. Nice hard use little pocket knife that has a classy look.
Hello DCA, Seth and Knifecenter- what are some of the most underlooked/least popular folders that cause you to wonder why? There are knives that I have looked at over years and never pulled the trigger - I wonder why myself! For example I have looked at Benchmade Presidio for a couple years now and have never purchased it. It seems like Hogue doens't get the recognition they deserve.
S35vn wasn't developed as an upgrade to the user. It might've been eventually marketed that way because it's a hair tougher, but it wasn't the original focus. It was developed as a steel that was similar enough to S30v that it wouldn't rock the boat too much as far as the end user was concerned (who was used to S30v) but was easier to work with from a manufacturing standpoint. Easier to machine or whatever. I'd never consider S30v as "cheaping out". They're both fairly balanced and totally cool. Truthfully though, if I wanted freakish edge retention, I wouldn't be choosing either one. And if I wanted freakish toughness, I also wouldn't be choosing either one. So thinking of it that way, there's not a whole lot of reason to differentiate the 2. Of course I just differentiated the 2 anyway, because I'm a fool who needs therapy.
If you don't mind, what would you chose if you wanted freakish edge retention and what would you chose for freakish toughness? Thanks.
DCA and Thomas are the best knife combo on TH-cam hands down. Thx guys for always great content! Plz keep it up!
I think the question about Spyderco locks was referring to their classic back locks and the little flicks of the wrist some people use to start closing the blade.
David really knows his stuff....you can trust the information in the videos he makes. EXCELLENT.
Mr. Andersen, lots of fun as always - thank you. As for elements of a knife and their order of importance, I am thoroughly convinced that context is everything. For the last few years I've been living on a Caribbean island, close to South America. It's hot every day. It's humid every day. And the ocean is less than a mile away, so there's a fair amount of salt in the air. Steel choice has become REALLY important to me, because even steels that seemed very stain-resistant Stateside are prone to rusting here. I've developed quite an affection for 440C and N690, drool over anything made with LC200N, and am ogling Magnacut HARD. None of these were top of my list in terms of steel preferences before the move, but they all offer the thing I value most right now - resistance to rusting.
Charles Collier:- If rust resistance is of primary concern, then check out non ferrous metals, where iron is not incorporated into the mix. Spyderco has several.
@@blueeyeswhitedragon9839 absolutely. I've been less than excited about H1 because it's so soft, but I've been all over their LC200N offerings and I can't WAIT for the Magnacut Native 5 to drop!
Thanks for all of your content. I look forward to your shows every week. The funny banter between you and Thomas is so fun to watch. I've learned so much from watching all of your shows. So thank you very much and keep it coming!!!
Another question. I’m a steel nerd like you DCA, however I’m still in the dark a little. It appears like the steel selection comes down to what you want to do with the knife. Could you recommend your first choice of steel for the following knifes
Heavy chopper-
Kitchen slicer-
Heavy use tactical/survival-
Light use grail EDC-
DCA
@@masemasemasie Cad
I have the ZT055 also. That jumped out at me the second Thomas handed his in. I really like the hidden flipper tab. Wish they would use that again.
The importance of nailing the heat treatment can't be overstated. Many high volume Brands go far softer than is ideal for optimal performance. This is done for financial reasons. The ratios are built in considering the amount of cost servicing their warranty. There are lots of small little known shops with decades of experience with 1095, 440c that preform edge to edge with the snob steel's. I have suggested a " hardline " option where they push the steel to get the most out of it. And adjust the warranty accordingly. In my 50+ years I have come to believe 1095, 440c,52100 properly heat treated will be more than sufficient for 98% of people. An argument could be made for LC2000 for coastal residents as well respectively.
never came across that cool signal mirroring technique, thanks, useful!
Hi DCA, first of all thanks for all the great content from both you and KnifeCenter as a whole. Without getting too political, I sometimes hesitate to buy knives made in China due to some of the labor concerns there. I'd like to say that the quality manufacturers avoid unethical practices, but it is difficult to make an informed decision. I just ordered knives from Artisan Cutlery (Small Archaeo with damascus and pakkawood) and Kizer Cutlery (Lieb with the brown micarta) partially based on some of your content, and it got me thinking about this question. Thank you!
For that matter, I'd also like to hear any thoughts the other commenters/community has on this.
I bought a ultratech Last year with m390 and it's still the sharpest knive I've ever received in the mail.
Still just as sharp today.
Agree that edge geometry is vastly superior to steel type. I look for thinness behind the edge since most of my cuts prefer clean laser cuts vs rough push cuts
The way DCA responded to the "reverse Tanto blade" had me rolling 😆
I've brought plenty of machetes and the such on airplanes. It just has to be a checked bag. I've been all over the united States with my camping/back packing gear, which includes plenty of things "not allowed" on the plane, but it's only not allowed if you're trying to take it on your person or carry on.
Hey DCA, great stuff as always. So speaking of blade steels, do you agree or disagree with the ratings and rankings over at bhq?
Would really love to see y'all do your own version over at knife center, as theirs is a bit outdated and there's a lot it doesn't cover. Plus, I'm sure you'd get really into the weeds here which I love.
Also would love to see y'all do a video on which steels are best for different tasks, maybe discuss your preference angle-wise for various purposes.
David and Thomas, thanks for the videos. I need a knife for my dog. Something small and light with good sheath retention that can be attached to his collar or harness. Bonus points if it has a bottle opener.
I decided to to buy an EDC folding knife. I spend 2-weeks learning “knife jargon”, then metal types, lock differences, “opening and closing” features and features. I benefited from watching a lot of videos on different topics you made DCA, therefore a deserved thank you to you.
One seemingly obvious oversight to the discussion of knives found on UTUBE is the “hand size” width and length from “tip of middle index finger to base” of palm. Looking at knives omitting size is like buying Shoes and never knowing the foot size of the customer.
An not infrequent comment in posts is that customers are disappointed in their purchases because the knife doesn’t fit the hand or accommodate a glove.
With the 2 hand dimensions I have mentioned, particularly “Palm Width”, knives can be ranked as Poor, Questionable, Realistic, You Got It. These are critical knife handle length and probable Thumb fit.
If a buyer can “Palm a Basketball” or wears winter gloves or a glove for protection regularly, a lot of EDC knives are not appropriate regardless of quality, aesthetics, durability, or cost. …… Just sayin …
Was waiting for 73 for a while and of coarse it didn't disappoint. That was a classic. I will watch it a few more times. Great work everyone 👏
Bencmades s30v is awesome! Spydercos was a pain in the ass to sharpen for me and I got pretty much the same edge retention out of both. Both did chip at first though. My cf elite Presidio 2 chipped the tip and the PM2 chipped all over it hitting metal and such on accident. The Presidio 2 was from a drop. After switching to Spydercos 20 cv I will never go back to that S class. So fricken nice and I don’t lose that much edge so it look’s good a lot longer.
I'm still having a great experience with my Manix 2 s30v, but deuterium interested in the 20cv.
You recently did a video featuring higher-end EDC knives. One of the things you mentioned was features you can find on a higher-end knife that makes them really special that you can't get on more budget friendly, or attainable, knives. I'm wondering about knives that are the opposite (sort of): Budget knives that have features that make them really special that you don't see on more expensive knives.
My take on this one would be that cheaper knives tend to have pvc washers instead of ball bearings which makes them alot more resistant to sand and dirth. And mby the fact that u can use em as hard as u want and Don't have to care alot about it.
In the second to last question about spyderco locks i think he was referring to the way people like erik glesser close LOCKBACKS one-handed by depressing the lock back and letting the ricasso fall onto his finger.
I do it with my Delica all the time. 🤷
DCA I think you may have missed the one handed one finger close knife thing. I thought they were asking about a lock back where you stop the closing blade action with your index finger then finish closing the knife. Maybe that is when people think their finger is in real danger.
A wonderfully insightful presentation as always chaps, thank you!
Question for the show; if you were buying a big hard use Bowie for bushcraft, what would you go with?
I understand the traditional Bowie wasn’t made for bushcraft, but with the evolution of materials, I wondered which model/manufacturer makes one capable of some fire prep and outdoor tasks?
Many thanks, as always, for the superb content!
I'm a knife steel nerd, but I love 80crv2,154 cm,S30V and a good Sandvick steel it all depends on what I'm using the knife for.I would take any real loveless design as a dream knife.
I could tell the murbling was Thomas. 👌🏻Intro is well loved I assure you. And the sweet bass line at the end is legendary
I bought an S30V buck knife from you guys and couldn't be happier.
So … on the topic of super steels … what is your opinion on the very new, amazing, CPM Magnacut steel? Supposedly you can use in in a stunningly broad range of knife applications … from folders to choppers … to slicers… Lionsteel is looking into creating a fixed blade knife in this steel for 2022 according to the DBK guys based in that big European knife show held in March.
DCA, as the man in front of the camera is obviously important. He brings knowledge and wisdom both, at least enough to be valuable to hold a bladed tool discussion. However, I'd like to throw some gratitude to the man behind the camera and in front of the editing: Thomas is also a profoundly important part of Knifecenter having such a successful and important TH-cam channel. There are other knife stores which offer good service and pricing, but all of their YT channels appear to be run by people over their head in terms of professionalism. Well done, gentlemen.
I didn't mean to leave out Seth. He also offers some important content. Kudos all around.
S30V is good stuff! Been using it for years, no complaints. Holds a nice edge! 👍
I personally am a big steel nerd and my favorite type is fully stainless aka lc200n, vanax, h1 and now recently apparently magnacut. I think these steels are absolute Marvels! I think all steel companies and knife companies should focus on these type of steels since those steels have only 2 upgrades necessary. It used to be balance between 3 legs, hardness, toughness and stainless. If we further develop these steels, there are only 2 things to upgrade and not have to worry about stainless anymore
How often do you use a knife ? Apparently you believe ALL the marketing hype....
@@safromnc8616Got something against corrosion resistance? 🤔
I think Harry Crab was talking about the way people disengage spyderco backlocks with one hand. It's how Eric closes them, and I think I remember a blade/shot show video where he actually cut himself doing it.
I remember that 😅 He cut himself on a Spyderco Siren which doesn’t have the forward finger choil. He’s so used to doing that, he forgot which knife he was handling. But I also close my Spyder lockbacks like that. Just keep the index finger high and let that be the first thing the choil/recasso hit. No issues when you get the hang of it. Cheers!
I respectfully have to disagree with you on your hierarchy of knife needs #1 and #2. Geometry should be first before heat treatment. You mentioned stone knives, but there were bronze and iron tools for most of recorded human history. A good heat treat is good for edge retention, but a mild steel knife can still cut things. If you grind a blade thin enough, like Opinel, it can cut cardboard even when the edge has been completely worn dull because of its thin geometry. A knife without cutting geometry just isn't a knife though.
I have bargain bin S&W knives I've had since I was a teenager that I've never cleaned or maintained with barely any signs of rust and I've had new knives from reputable companies like CRKT come right out of the box with as much rust as my 10 year old Ford. I'm pretty bare bones with my requirements because in my view, so long as a knife doesn't corrode just because I looked at it funny, has a solid lockup, and it has a straight edge (I simply don't have the patience to resharpen a serrated blade), then I think it's a perfectly acceptable knife for me.
In my opinion… Benchmade’s S30v is great. I’ve always had problems with Spyderco’s chipping
Hey DCA: can you compare CPM MagnaCut to Elmax in terms of performance (toughness, hardness, Wear resistance, and corrosion resistance.)
Sidenote: thanks to you and Thomas for all you do. These weekly video blogs are extremely helpful and I've learned a lot!
Thanks for answering my previous question again about good folder to fixed blade knives. Keep up the good work guys.
I think the spyderco terror question was about the lockback flick where the choil lands on the index finger.
Hello DCA, Thanks for the excellent content.
Looking to get my wife her first EDC knife. Main uses would be opening packages and cutting up food for our daughter while out and about. My current short list are the CIVIVI elementum in purple or the Gerber Armbar slim cut. A fun color is not essential but appearing non threatening is a major factor for her as she is only somewhat comfortable with the idea and I think the color of the elementum or the multitool nature of the armbar slim aid in that department. Any other suggestions or tips to pass along to her to feel more comfortable with the idea.
Yes grab her a sub 3 inch pink "Domin Mini" from Kizer Cutlery ($55) or a purple CIVIVI like the non locking slip joint "Appalachian Drifter 2" or the "Elementum" or the new "Baby Banter" is probably the best
Love you guys. Just pulled out my RAT 5...mostly to look at, because it’s cold out and I live in a house heated w nat gas.
I could sit in “the weeds” all day and listen to all this knowledge.
Mirror polish as the final step in sharpening is also useful.
I'm pretty sure that the "one handed close" refers to something like the delica where you push the backlock and flick the blade toward your hand to start it closing.
Hey DCA! There are many different settings that knives are specifically designed for such as office EDC, bushcraft, etc. While there is no knife that is good for every task there are some that have a “well rounded” design that works well in multiple roles and situations. Your mission should you choose to accept it is to name one folder and one fixed blade that is the most versatile and well rounded for as many tasks you can think of.
Fixed blade: I removed the pocket clip and thumbstud from an SR 1 Lite and I tell you in use it feels like a fixed blade. Can’t say the same for the folding Becker BK40 - it’s just not nearly as robust, even though those Becker lines need handle feel rock. Of course for either we would still need to open them without fumbling them and dropping, which is much less a problem with a fixie, where we can get, and keep, a solid grip. Much more an issue with a folder; it’s too bad no one makes a sheath for the SR 1 Lite in opened mode.
I have a Benchmade Bushcrafter 162 in CPM S30V and it has amazing edge retention, easy to sharpen, excellent corrosion resistance, and it is reasonably tough and doesn’t chip. I have used it often over the two years that I have owned it. I believe my knife’s performance is mainly due to the superior heat treatment that Benchmade does. I can compare this knife to my lionsteel M2M and M4 fixed blade knives in M390.
I think the Spyderco one finger chopping opening action that was mentioned was about a back lock, not a compression lock. I know the move he means - depressing the back lock and flipping it half closed, then snapping it closed while moving finger out of the way.... Yeah! People do do the "back lock disengagement whip" while the other fingers are totally in the blade path,holding the knife! Yes, I squirmed the first time I saw that, too!
Hey DCA and grumble grumble from one Thomas to another.
I've been getting the Kizer Infinity in black micarta recently. I really love the action and fidget ability of it and the blade shape is great for everything I need (destroying zip ties, Ethernet cables, packaging and lunch). Are there any other knives with a similar blade shape and micarta or G10 scales that you can recommend for sub-$100 and sub-$250?
Thanks for the great content as always!
I've heard the reason for developing S35VN was, S30V is much harder to machine. So in order to ease the production they created something other. So, S35VN is not better, it's just different.
I think the spyderco one handed unlock question was referring to unlocking spydercos lockbacks like the delica/endura line.
I do it all the time. 🤷
Great video! Can you please review the glock knife?
The Glock knife is a solid fixed blade but mine came with a horrible edge.
I think it definitely leans more towards the tactical than bushcraft.
@@eugenevictortooms4174 yes totally agree. Mine came with dull edge too. It will need to be sharpened, but for the price of only 30 bucks, it’s amazing beater lightweight knife that can do most camping, common tasks, maybe not well but good enough. What do you think?
Really, mine was razor sharp when I got it. Great, nearly indestructible knife. See my handle mod vid to make it even better.
Love my 940 in s30v. Good stuff
Great job on your hierarchy DCA! Yes, heat treat is much more important than blade steel...sorry S30/35/40V and other super steel fans. Perfect example is the Buck 420HC Bos heat treated blades.
Yall should do one for multi tool knives like Leathermans a few different companies make one is Leatherman the best? Blade steel? Etc.....
Leatherman or Victorinox
What I have heard about mirror polish affecting a blade’s performance only has to do with the cutting edge itself. If the edge is mirror polished, the carbides (microscopic teeth that make the knife cut) become so small that it actually slices with less efficiency. However, the fine edge allows for better push cuts when carving wood, since you push the blade through the material like a chisel. Non-mirror polished knives can carve wood without problem, of course, but a mirror polished edge performs best. As far as the grind goes, a mirror polish is strictly for display, as far as I know.
The hierarchy of needs is a good way to put it. I think heat treat is way lower, depending on what you are doing.
Mine are:
1. blade geometry, 2. Shape that matches purpose. 3. Ergos. 4. Sheath/carry method. 5. Heat treat. 6. Handle material. 7. blade steel. Great question!!!
Good Heat treatment is the number one thing you need with any type of steel. Any steel with a poor heat treatment is worse than the cheapest steel treated properly.
Without heat treat it is not a knife. -DCA
Hey, David, I’m getting interested in slipjoints, but don’t know anything about them. Will you kindly give a short presentation on the different types of slipjoints (trapper, stockman, etc) and what their blade shapes are called and designed for? Thanks.
It's easy to fall into this super steel knife enthusiast game but I want a beater knife with good edge retention that's easy to sharpen I keep falling back on a bigger 1095 blade for heavy use and a USA buck for cutting skinning tasks
In reality that's all you'll ever need.
Don't know if this helps, but a relatively economical choice, with decent steel, and absolutely phenomenal ergonomics is the CRKT Fossil series. I have both the serrated and plain edge.
When you say beater knife, man you can do damn near everything any four inch knife can do, and they are folders.
The geometry, balance, strength, and the amazingly well designed grip just give so many advantages for way under $100, than almost any manufacturer. No hot spots, no slipperiness, front and rear jimping, flipper style ball bearing pivot, with an extremely well contoured thumb and choil notch, and about the only complaint is that the stupid clip location is prone to snagging seatbelts.
Very few folders (with much higher pricetags) are as just all around useful and practical as the Fossil.
The cadillac of beater entry knives. And yes, if they simply made it a fixed blade, it would almost perfect.
Just my opinion. But I spend some thirty to forty hours a week behind all different types of blades for a living. Many knives are okay for purpose, but only very few hit all the marks of (nearly) flawless capability. CRKT got it right with this Ikoma design.
_______
EDIT: went out and got another CRKT Fossil, at Walmart, $50, just to see if that theory is valid. Turns out yes, you can have a great do-all kinfe for half the price of a tank of gas...
Axis lock with 154cm is tough to beat. I log for a living a have a BM Barrage in 154 that I absolutely abuse. Tough ass knife that isn't too expensive and fairly easy to sharpen. Think Hogue is doing a great version too.
Check em out.
I'd love to see a cold steel fixed blade Kris. I really respect them playing with that blade shape, I'd love to see a more traditional stiletto with that flamberge style blade, and either a fixed voyager Kris or a 4 inch fixed blade ti-lite would be gorgeous.
Love the knife nerding in all its glory. I've just recently started to venture into folding knives, and especially flippers. But my question is about D2. It seems to be the steel to frown upon, but how bad is it? I sharpen my own knives when necessary, but it seems to me that edge retention is OK on D2. Some say it is harder to sharpen than some other steels, but is it that tough? And what about toughness? Is it really THAT brittle? Stain resistance is good, isn't it? So... bad or just not as good as the current state of the art?
Intersting take on the "knife priorities" here, although i find it arguable that geometry may actually come before heat treating. I mean some knives are made out of austenitic steels that can't be hardened at all, others are not even made out of steel (there are ceramic, tungsten carbide and even plastic blades). Yet in certain contexts, they are perfectly legitimate cutting tools.
Once again, it's indeed a matter of context.
Hi DCA - Over the past few months I have purchased several knives from Knife Center based on your New Knives reviews. Unfortunately, I had to return 3 knives due to significant manufacturing defects. First knife, blade was off-center, so much so that the blade was rubbing against the liner. Second knife, detent was so stiff that the knife would not flip open. Third knife ( replacement of knife #2), detent was also too stiff. Also, after a few days of two-handed opening and closing, the blade moved way off center. So, do knife collectors just accept poor manufacturing and a lack of quality control, or is my experience an anomaly? New Knife Day should be something we look forward to, but my experience has made me question if I want to continue in this hobby. Thanks for your consideration.
Sounds like you got some lemons But I think since the world went to crap lately that quality control is terrible I'm not being mean but Dca is a natural salesman and that's his job it's not his fault quality control is crap but all knives should be tested for fit and finish before they ship from The Seller especially a reputable place like knife center. May GOD Bless You And Keep You.
You have to 'break in' & tune up or sharpen a knife just like a ton of other things from shoes to cars. You could have likely fixed all of those things, in about 10 minutes.
Hi DCA ! I have modded an Opinel n°10 (making it a tanto, milling the handle to have a seatbelt-cutter and thinning the handle) and I'm not satisfied with its handling. The blade is really slicy but lack edge retention. I EDC a beater fixed blade (Real Steel Cormorant), and I need a slicier folder. The Opinel is 2.1mm thick (0.082 inches), so I think I need a thin high full-flat grind, 3.5 inches to preferably 4, if possible in D2 or upper in edge-retention. Budget is 70 dollars max, give or take. But it can be way lower (D2 can be a bargain these days) ^^
A french fellow knife beater
Almost everything in Benchmades lineup has a purpose outside of collecting. And in doing so it standardizes their knives and lineup. s30v is and has been the premium every day steel for the every day user that everyone can work with. Same thing goes with 154cm and (cpm)D2 is good for military that are going to go through days and nights without touching it up and it still are able to work on it with the most minimum kind of supplies (I've touched up blades on a cinder block or rock before). Even the hunt series they're knowing exactly what would be preferred for the task at hand. They're not creating something with the mindset of it to be collected. They're creating something with the mindset to be *used*. And then they throw in a couple mixed bags on old classics (m4,cruware,etc)
Unfortunately the knife community is so warped in their idea's about steels, without having any first hand experience with them that 99% don't actually use, to actually know what's good or not in todays day and age. They go off some wierd web page or youtube telling them "Oh you want a hard use? get this! You want tactical? Get that! You want the perfect EDC? This is your choice". And then you have Steels like s30v that no matter what you say can still perform the job 99.9999999% of the time every other steel can. It's really a super sad state of affairs to be honest.
Old timer here. 440,420 , 1075, 1095, various European steels, aus 8,10. vg10 - They ALL work.
Love the 154cm. My Barrage 580 is one tough SOB. As a logger and mechanic/racer, I abuse the crap out of it and for eight years it's took it.
The sound effects on the intro is my favorite part! 👍
Hi David (and Seth),
My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question:
I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features:
1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard")
2) Axis or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong)
3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it...
4) About 3" or more Blade Length
5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly.
6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip
7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each.
Thanks so much!
Very serious question: is a traditional box cutter considered an OTF knife?
In germany ur actually not allowed to carry them bec of that. Unless ur at work.
(Real otf like microtech are completely forbidden)
@@try3791 Wow. Europe never ceases to amaze me with their ridiculous knife laws.
@@DylanLey yeah. Especially germany. It's so stupid. The whole laws about 1 hand opening and locking pocket knives are also insanely stupid.
What the intended use is would determine the order I think. My edc is used for simple tasks like making a cut on tape to open a box. By and large, It is a backup for my pistol. It’s primarily for defense. So, speed of deployment is number one. Blade length and cutting ability number two. Then the rest of characteristics.
This question is really about a lot of different products, but here goes. Why do manufacturers only make a limited number of certain knives when the demand is clearly there. I'm talking about the Paysan, Slyz Bowie, CRK Wilson Combat Sebenza, etc. These knives instantly get a premium added on the secondary market because they don't make enough.
Hey, hey DCA! Can anyone design a knife? Whether fixed or folder and it be a "successful" tool in sales and actual use...
Also, loved the out-tro when Thomas grabbed his ZT off the table!
I did manage to shave the tip off my pinky with my Para 3 when I was flipping it closed and I wasn’t paying attention to where the fleshy bit at the end of my pinky was. Just the first layer of skin, but it still stung a bit.
S30V is my favorite steel. Benchmades S30V does usually need a couple sharpenings in my few examples to get over chipping but will eventually hold an edge as well or better than Spyderco S30V, except for the Sage 5, S30V, which their taiwanese factory nailed the heat treat on.
Great explanation!!
I would like to see a fixed blade spydiechef
Another great video by the most pre-eminent knife expert in the world today, Dave C Anderson!!
Yes the bush ranger is based on one of there older fixed blade models. I forget who did the designing for cold steel for that. But I'm pretty sure it wasn't Demko.
I've heard many stainless steels referred to as "being tough" - 14c28n, S35VN, 4116, 420HC - all called "tough steels". I'm curious about which one, in your opinion, is the toughest stainless steel in a bushcraft/survival situation. Folder, or fixed blade, edge retention or ease of sharpening - doesn't matter, just which one is toughest. I don't mind having to sharpen it, but I do mind if it breaks. Thanks in advance and love what you and Thomas do!
P.S. Knife nerds rule!
Search: knife steel toughness chart
@@MB-jg4tr yeah, I see all of that online stuff, but I'm interested in what Mr. DCA thinks.
AEB-L/13C26, followed by Magnacut (which also has great edge retention) -DCA
Folders I‘d like to see as Fixed:
Spyderco Para2, Microtech LUDT, Protech Godson, Benchmade Bailout, sure more I cannot think of at the moment
DAC risking light bulb burn to bring us these great videos. What dedication! As for folders as fixed blade the Spyderco Resilience and Civivi Mastodon come to mind.
Love all your videos KC and DCA. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
I brought a handful of Masai machetes back to the US from Kenya in my check luggage no problem. I took a fixed blade and a few folders from the US to there in my check luggage. Shouldn't have any problem.
Benchmade mini bugout and the spyderco native 5 as edc fixed blades would be amazing!
DCA, the current Cold Steel Bush Ranger was inspired by the original fixed blade version made many years ago. Cold Steel made them in AUS8A and Carbon V. I still have mine in Carbon V.
I knew it, just couldn't place it in the moment, thanks! -DCA
Why don't more manufacturers make pocket knives with spear point blades, kind of like the Victorinox spear point but larger? I am referring to something like the GEC 15 or the blade used on the old TL-29 Electrician's knives. Years ago this used to be one of the most common blade shapes used on stockman and barlow style knives, but almost none of the budget companies make anything like this anymore for under $50
Hey Dca you should check the Opinal paring knife - Les Forges 1890 basically a full tang no.9
I'd love a fixed blade version of kabar's Dozier folders.... 😁 What a great little knife.
Thank you, Sir!... I've learned a couple of new things today! God bless!
I've always wanted a Kershaw leek neck knife, same exact size and shape but full tang and maybe with some flat scales.
Great content as usual guys. I have a "classic" Esse 5. Is there an advantage to getting the 3D handles? I've seen other vids about this would like your opinion thanks.
Think it boils down to what's comfortable to you in your hand. I have an Esee 6 that I replaced the micarta scales with contoured g10 ones which I prefer much more.
I think the comfort upgrade is very worth it, but to each their own -DCA
Hi. Looking to put together a camping knife compliment. I rarely camp solo, so my wife would have a knife as well. The thought of one knife forever makes me shudder a little. I have a Cold Steel SRK-C, I would like to get a Condor Bushcraft parang, as a chopper. This leaves me wanting a better edge holding blade. I would love to see the Buck 105 pro in your now well documented hands, for size comparison. Would I be left wanting by not getting the 119? All around camp knife would be it's duties. Also be neat to see other pairings and trios etc, in the comments . Thanks for your thoughts.
Hey DCA and Thomas; what is the best method to clean our knives on a daily basis. Is it acceptable to run under the sink with running water? Will this cause problems with the pivot components like bearings, washers, etc? Is dish soap acceptable as well? I’m always afraid that water will stay in the tight spots and either gum things up or cause rusting etc. Every once in a while I take my knives apart and use alcohol to clean and then follow with minimal lube. Thanks guys.
Hello DCA, I want a nice EDC fixed blade that would mostly be doing kitchen-like tasks, as well as it being a knife that I can pass down to my children. Preferably under $200. Any suggestions? Thanks, keep up the great content.