I had the same thought, but most ar barrels are 1:7 and not the 1:5 of the rattler. I load subs to 1020 fps with h110 and aa1680 and get perfect function on the - setting on the rattler and my 6.75" tac ops is more picky being a smaller port size, but a little nicer shooting being able to more finely tune the load. And I get a warm fuzzy being able to fire multiple rounds when folded.
Kinda speaks a lot for KAK's baby blonde... kinda the ultimate shorty AR barrel... ample space to bring different gas blocks and handguards into the equation, as well as coming in a 1:5 twist.
Faxon just came out with their 1:5 twist 6” barrel I actually bought one and im currently running. Im glad to report the faxon comes with the .125” gas port that i recommended drilling the BA to.
I haven’t had any issue cycling subs and supers. Even switched to a JP SCS which has been hit or miss for me and it’s cycling great. Seems to work well if you have buffer and spring right
POF P415 Edge 10.5 with Sandman S = never a malfunction after a thousand rounds, mix of supers and subs, with or without suppressor, stock setting on factory adj gas block, locks back on either, no drilling, no hoop jumping, no rain dances, just shooting..............hmmmm......... I hope you had fun though......By the way, any relation to Max Headroom?
Wow, my cookiie cutter ATI full polymer factory built 7.5 .300blk has run thousands of supers and subs through a “cheap” can without any issues. Sounds like you got a real deal with that rifle.
Sometimes it be like that! The real problem with this build is the short dwell time and the gas port size. In its current state it eats all supers. But subs are a different animal. I have now worked a subsonic load that gets 100% reliability. But at 920fps. It even locked back with no suppressor. I may increase the charge to get at least 1000fps. Or i may go to a lighter bullet.
@@elijahisrael86 the only reason you should consider a lighter bullet is to increase its ability to reach 1000fps from a shorter barrel. At the end of the day, its all about gas port pressure. With such a short dwell time, you really need a slower burning powder like cfe blk or accurate 1680 to make it effective. Use these powders and you should encounter zero issues with sub reliability on a 6” barrel as long as you follow my parts list and buffer weight specs My current load is 220gr projectiles with 12.1gr of cfe blk powder. And i can make it lock back without the suppressor.
@@elijahisrael86 the dwell time is the same on the BA and the faxon 6”. HOWEVER, the faxon already has the .125” gas port that is required for reliable function. So yes, just get the faxon.
This was very interesting and informative information, thank you, I went with a 7.5” barrel and I have a pistol length gas tube , 1:7 twist and I run subs suppressed and supers flawlessly, But I just ordered a 200 round box from Ammo inc and I’m kind of nervous if it’s gonna give me problems. I have yet to find any ammo it will not chew and spit out but from your experience with ammo inc , I think this is a good test for my build and if she passes I will feel very good about my lil truck gun. Again thank you for the video and keep up the good work!!
I believe you wont have issues with the 7.5” as you have an increased dwell time. Most 300blk powders are really fast powders to make the bullet gain the velocity needed out of shorter barrels. Although its an excellent solution for short barrels, it also causes problems with gas guns which require more pressure at the gas port. Its all a balancing act. But long story short. the longer your pistol gas 300blk barrel is, the less it will be susceptible to these kinds of issues.
Wait you drilled the barrel to .125 but the gas block is .75? What was the initial size of the gas hole in the barrel and why not match that to the same size as the gas block
Nono haha The gas port size was .110”. I drilled out the gas port to .125” The .750” is simply the diameter of the barrel where the gas block sits. Hope this makes more sense!
I wouldn't trust my life to subs if they are barely cycling. It seems anything under 8" is a mixed bag whether they will cycle subs or not. I would just go with a Rattler or another factory setup under 8"
Its all about the powder my guy. Ive been able to get bolt lock on my 6” barrel without the suppressor simply by using the right powder with subs. The main problem isnt the barrel length, its the inconsistency in powder usage from ammo manufacturers.
Its a simple recipe! We already figured the 6” barrel out! Im not allowed to post links but definitely check out our website. We have everything you need there to get these 6” barrels up and running. We would be more than happy to help!
This video is the firearm version of the Charlie from its always sunny in Philadelphia meme lol I watched it at x2 and couldn’t stop thinking it. Anyway, I did a build with this barrel. I thought mine was severely under gassed as well. I just had to keep pulling off the gas block until it was perfectly aligned. It was such a pain in the as*. I’m running supers, but not suppressed.
Having gone through this head twice with two differing barrel length uppers and never obtaining a dependable firing weapon, I just bought a Sig MCX Spear LT. Now my weapon fires with any and all ammo.
Thats what you pay for when you buy an mcx upper. All the research and development is done. Its not all material costs. Its figuring out spring rates, gas port sizes, mass, material cost and strength requirements. The list goes on. Im on the verge of getting mine to cycle everything. Just havent had the time to mess with it since the mods. Look at my last reel. It shows my 6” 300blk cycling s&b subs with an h2 buffer equivalent and a full mass bcg.
Yes! But with loading your own bullets. Heres the load data: Berry’s plated 220gr bullets 2.150” COL 12.1gr of CFE BLK Cci small rifle primers Avg 920fps I may go a higher powder load to get the bullet velocity tailored to the short barrel. Or i could start using 200grn subs to make it easier to reach the velocity. Either way, i was even able to lock back without the suppressor before the gun was dirty.
GOTCHA…SOUNDS GOOD. THANKS FOR SHARING THE LOAD DATA. IF YOU DONT MIND, COULD I GET YOUR THOUGHTS OF WHY DO IT THE WAY YOU HAVE HERE…VS BUYING A COMPLETE UPPER FEOM SAY BKF OR SOMEONE SIMILAR. THNX
@@85ZERO17 of course. So back when i first built it no one made a complete upper for this barrel. So the only option was to build. Now with that said, the bkf upper doesnt allow as short of a configuration as my current setup, which my goal was to mimic a sig rattler size. I also get complete control over torque specs this way. Ive had several manufacturers skip on proper torque specs and procedures to save a quick buck. I actually have a video in the works showing an m&p sport 2 in which i perform a torque audit to see if its truly good to go or not.
@@85ZERO17 i built it in the beginning of 2021. If i could do something different, i wouldve dropped the money on a proper length handguard from slr rifleworks. Thats about it though
Currently have assembled a 8.5 diamondback 300 bo with sylvan arms gen 4 folder on the way, which i know the weight for the extension is 30z. I have a carbine buffer and spring in right now, only going to shoot supers till i get a can. Should i get the reduced yellow spring to counter having a buffer extension? Or should it run fine unsuppressed with supers. I know people online have problems with folders and subs unsuprerssed but like your video they remedied it with a yellow spring, 1 0z buffer. I guess my main question is should i get the yellow spring and bootleg bcg/drill out port if its not big enough if i dont have a can or shooting subs yet? EDIT: i checked their site and it says its a aluminum bolt extension, if it's the same as the one they offer for gen 3, it should be 1.1oz. With the standard carbine buffer of 3.1 oz, i'm assuming this shoould run supers and lock back correctly?
With the 8.5” barrel i dont think you will need a sprinco yellow. But at $20 its honestly a worthwhile investment. Id suggest getting a standard bcg for now and running just supers until you get a suppressor. Onc you have a suppressor, try out subs. If you end up having to reduce mass and/or spring weight, then i would highly suggest the bootleg as itll reduce the overgassing for when running supers Theres no need for the bootleg or sprinco yellow if you arent using a suppressor or subs is really what it comes down to
Its close in size to the rattler. Technically it does have a piston (internal piston), it does have quick adjust gas thanks to the bcg, and it shoots subsonic just fine with the right powder 🤷♂️
The headache was mine. If you follow my instructions itll just run. That was the point of the video. But i think it is. This is by far my favorite setup. It fits everywhere if you take the can off, and its the same length as a 10.5 ar even with the can on. Its an excellent pdw. Follow my instructions and you wont have a headache
I built a very similar set up aero lower stag lefty upper stag bcg law Folder,JP Silent capture system ar15 weight 80 lb spring w/ law folder adapter JP adjustable gas block (clamp on) 9 inch chromoly barrel from big daddy for $120 geissle Mk4 rail Gear Head Works tail hook. Same Sure Fire M600 and Sure Fire 3prong Socom. So I used to have a Fostech light weight bcg it ran fine with supers and with subs 200 s&b 220 ammo inc stealth 220 Sig spicy sauce. 110 VMAX ,150 supers ,125 match. But I really wanted to shoot with the gas nit I. My face so I got a nice fde upper from stag and a stag bcg lefty. Matches the Aero m4e1 lower. Radian raptor. I had a crappy gas block with the screw in the front I had to make a tool to get to it, then one day I ordered the JP adjustable clamp on, adjusting is easy bottoms out a bit with supers untill u close it a bit. I could throw in an 85lb spring I bet the bolt holds open. I have a Geissele flat 3 gun trigger but I got to try the Franklin armory fbs3 by optics planet. I heard it double taps amazing. In my opinion with such a similar rig as yours, just add on 3 inches of the barrel and u have virtually no issues. Run whatever u want. Go binary if u want. When I fold this it fits in a 17 inch backpack, flash hider pokes up a bit but u can unscrew that. I just feel like ur taking away accuracy, you have way too short of a hand guard, I'm raming the front of my hand guard against hard wood walls I can have a pec for my flashlight a decent hand stop, this thing is still super short and it's only 3in longer but I bet u it's alot more versatile with ammo and u dont need special bcg. I'm sure your aware of the ballistics with 6 in vs 9. I learned all u need is a 9310 tool steel bolt with any carrier and a titanium fire pin by JP it's pretty cheap titanium take down pins by battle arms and I have a CMMG mag catch to flip mags on the same hand 20 bucks totally optional. I appreciate the fact that u tried to replicate the size of another gun. But in the end u need to feel like the gun is battle ready everyday no matter what with no questions and I do feel like I can pull this out my bag and run binary open up the gas run subs binary or semi any Ammo u give me I use the lancer mag. I accidentally dropped a heavy 18 inch barrel gun on this gun and the mk4 rail just took the abuse. With ease. To reduce weight u could get the Seekins gas block. I would not even tell people to mess about drilling into the gas port only because if they screw it up they need a new barrel. I don't even remember the company name but Big Daddy Unlimited has a 9" 4150 chromoly barrel for 120 bucks black with cooling slits going up the entire barrel. I like the JP SCS because when it's open in the backpack u don't ever need to worry about that buffer and spring falling out because of a detent. The scs is captured nice and well. The tail hook is ATF approved and sturdy compared to the sba3 which u hear the ATF isn't backing anymore. But regardless it's all about feeling confident like ur guns gonna rock and roll accurate too.
I get that! Its all personal preference though. I love the 6” barrel because its small enough to fit everywhere. Okay especially with the can off. But with the can on its as long as a mk18 without the can. So its a very maneuverable setup. So far after sorting my gas issues this gun has been 100% I have zero complaints, but i also know its limitations. Could i go buy a gun that just works? Yeah, could i lengthen the barrel and feel like its more reliable? Yes. But that doesnt fit my goal. So i wont. But i get it. Its all about what you’re comfortable with. Im comfortable with my setup, so i run it that way. So far i wouldnt get rid of it, and i feel no need in replacing it.
What 6 inch upper u using ? I am building my own but I won’t go higher than 6 inch as I am adding a suppressor .. What’s the shortest suppressor can u add to a 300 blackout ?
Its an upper i built myself. Consists of a bcm upper, midwest industries combat 4.5” handguard, currently a faxon 6” barrel, vltor clamp on gas block, bootleg adjustable bcg and radian raptor charging handle. Im not sure what is the shortest suppressor available but i know a deadair sandman k is one of these short ones.
Although my setup has gotten expensive over time. The initial cost of this if you go conservative with the parts is less than half the price of a rattler
This is true, and these slow powders were what i needed to get proper function with subs. Currently running cfe blk with great success. Unfortunately i cant account for what powder manufacturers use. But the common off the shelf subs i found were not reliable for me.
You wont have these problems since you have increased dwell time. Just keep in mind that if you do have these issues, you can reduce mass or use a sprinco yellow spring to correct for it.
Adjustable gas blocks dont add gas, they only restrict gas. Also, because of how the barrel is, an adjustable gas block doesnt fit behind the muzzle I suggest the bootleg adjustable bcg, as it offers all the benefits of an adjustable gas block.
Thats how it be sometimes. Thankfully faxon came out with their 6” barrel with the .125” gas port i recommended. No more drilling required if you just buy a faxon!
.....or you could just get a bleed off adjustable gas block (superlative arms) Never once had a problem w/ subs, supers, or suppressed.. I'm so glad mine didn't become an entire project just to get to cycle properly.
It doesnt fit because the muzzle device is right up against the gas block. Trust me, if superlative was an option i wouldve used it. I use them on my other builds The build is half the cost of an mcx in current prices.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc I guess I got lucky with parts alignment then... I have to remove the can to adjust for sure, but I've got about 3mm of clearance from the detent... prolly no way I could run a trilug and/or other types of QD.. Super awesome video though.
@@streamylc sometimes you get lucky like that. Either way im really happy with the bootleg bcg. My muzzle device leaves no room at all. Especially after i switched to the faxon 6” Theres barely a shred of light between the gas block and muzzle device. And thank you! Ill be uploading a barrel comparison soon to tell people which one to get over the other and why.
Great info, im currently trying to get my 6" BA barrel to function with 220g subs. Except I bought a lightweight bcg, emptied the buffer, and got a Tubbs flatwire reduced power buffer spring for .300blk. I tried it with a set screw gas block, but just ordered a clamp on gas block that should help better. I am using a suppressor.
Forgot to add it will cycle supersonic ammo but the S&B subs it would do the same and lock back on the last round on the bolt carrier where it picks up the next round it doesnt go all the way back and lock where the bolt lug is
So theres actually a few other things you could try before drilling the barrel to .125” #1. The tubbs low power flatwire is actually still 1 lb heavier than the sprinco yellow. So consider this spring as well. I took measurements and they are like follows: Tubbs LW: 6lb extended 11lb compressed Sprinco yellow: 5lb extended 10lb compressed #2. Cocking the hammer takes energy away from the bcg cycling. Its at the beginning so its imperceptible. That being said, energy is required to cock the hammer, period. So a reduced power hammer spring may be a good idea. Although only try this with lightweight hammers. The alg purple spring is available at geissele’s website for stupid cheap. This is as low as you wanna go with a full mass milspec hammer. Jp also sells lighter hammer springs, but a bobbed or lightweight hammer is recommended Im set up with an alg purple spring on a geissele ssa-e and the hammer spring has no effect on trigger pull weight on geissele 2 stage triggers. Otherwise, the final option, is drill the gas port to .125”
Thanks! There will be more! I will be making a comparison video betwen this gun, a honey badger and a sig rattler. It will be more of a talk video with my friends who own these platforms. But the plan is to include alot more footage!
Just thinking out loud. What about putting a supers in the bottom of the mag for reliable bolt lock back? I'm NOT an operator. I'd think after 10+ rounds, full suppression probably isn't as necessary since someone is probably shooting back. You could also utilize supers towards the end to let you know you're running low and should probably get a fresh mag.
Not a bad idea if i ever have to run manufactured subs again. As of right now though the reloaded subs im making give me full lock back. I may try different powders as i have room to play with and actually had to open up the gas a little with cfe blk powder
Cool. I just bought a 9" upper and will be starting the process. :) I typically load my 9mm PCC with subs for maybe 10-15 since subsonic ammo could be more expensive/rare. I didn't have reliability issues. The final reason was for more kinetic energy via higher velocity.
Its in the works! Ive got a few bits of testing to do with it. Since ive picked up on reloading i want to do a little more testing with it and bcg mass. Ill also be making a comparison between this gun, a rattler and a honeybadger. The plan is to have a decent amount of action shots with that video too so make sure you subscribe!
@@elijahisrael86 how does it take someone weeks… to know a firearm shooting subs would need a lighter spring. Sounds like it’s time to fire your gunsmith…that’s just common sense
Mine has been excellent so far. But the rattler is now a military adopted platform. So that should say everything about the sub 9” guns. Its all about the platform/setup
It was! But faxon just released their 6” 300blk barrel which has the same .125” gas port size that i drilled the BA barrel to. So if you just buy the faxon and follow my instructional, you wont need to do anything crazy other than piece it together!
Great video. I used the same barrel in order to build a more budget friendly Honey Badger SD style pistol. I initially had great function running supers and subs with my Rugged Razor attached to the end. I decided I wanted a dedicated can for the build with a little more suppression so I got a Griffin GP7. Now its ejecting the subs but not picking up the next round. I’m going to try a lightweight adjustable BCG before I drill out the gas port since the SB Honey badger brace uses a nonstandard buffer and spring.
You’re on the right track! If i may, rubber city armory makes fantastic lightweight bcg’s and they sell them with their adjustable gas key as well. I do believe you can still remove the buffer weights from the hbpdw buffer. So that may be an option too! Best of luck!
@@eitrisenhancementsllc thanks for the recommendation. Primary Arms has that Rubber City BCG on sale, I’ll hopefully get everything tuned up next weekend
@@dlesq8747 great time to purchase then! Just make sure you’re buying the one thats adjustable as they also offer the same model with a standard gas key the right one is part no. 111-AGK
This i did not try as i already had some 150gr supers fail to lock back with the factory gas port. However, considering i was still unable to cycle subs with the new gas port size, i can say with certainty that it would not have cycled. And this was with a low power spring and an empty buffer.
@@K-bob_45 ill definitely keep this in mind if i ever buy factory subs again, thanks for the tip! Unfortunately and fortunately i already tooled up for 300blk reloading and now buying manufactured subs is economically out of the question. But if im ever in the market ill definitely check them out!
Im sure this would function well, but as i said in the video, you lose the adjustability the bootleg bcg offers. You could remove the weights off the jp and keep a standard mass bcg like the bootleg. But then if you wanted to run it on a law tactical folder your cost would be insane. It would be a $400+ buffer setup if you include the jp kit cost for the law tactical and the folding adapter. Simply not worth it.
@@Big6Duke i would also say if you are going to go that route. Make sure you the jp spring kit as it includes a reduced power spring. I also dont know what their law tactical bcg extension weighs So just keep in mind as long as you remove the weights off the jp it should work, but since nobody has tried it is still unknown. However if you do end up using a low mass bcg with it. I expect you will not have any issues with subs. Just might require a gas busting charging handle for running supers
Thank you for this video. I have had so much cycling issues with this barrel I was on the verge of purchasing a new Faxon but think I will give drilling the gas port out first a shot.
Glad i could help! I responded to your other comment. But in short, if you dont mind the 1-7 twist then save your money and drill the gas port to .125” Otherwise if you want a 1-5 twist like i did, skip drilling and buy the faxon Hope this helps!
You may want to pull off the gas block. Check the barrel to see where the fouling is at the port. Lining the block up perfectly is very important. This fixed my problems. Now I have cycling, I just need to get a smaller gas block that fits with my muzzle device.
The upper on this can be built for around $700 which includes the barrel, gas block, nice receiver, handguard, and bcg. It can be cheaper, and it can be more expensive. Realistically the heart of the build is the barrel and bcg. You can save some money by using the BA 6” but faxon now has a 6” and it is substantially better and worth the extra $30-40 Everything else can be whatever you want it to be. My build is now an expensive setup. But the cost savings you get from the base setup allow you to have extra money for the accessories.
I'm glad I found this video. Very good info here, so thank you for that. I am currently considering my options for building my .300 Blk upper. So I have a question about the barrel length and gas port length. Is your BA barrel not a pistol-length gas port? It would seem to me it would not matter how long the barrel is after the gas port (is this not correct?). I am just curious if I go with the 9 or 10.3 barrel with the pistol length gas; do you think I would have issues switching between super and sub ammo?
The both the BA and faxon 6” barrels are pistol length gas. And yes, unfortunately the length of the barrel past the gas port does matter. The amount of time between the bullet passing the gas port and then exiting the barrel is called dwell time. The longer the dwell time, the more gas it is able to send through the gas port. The gas will take the path of least resistance so once the bullet leaves the barrel, the biggest hole is now the end of the muzzle. Longer 300blk barrels with pistol length gas systems tend to be more properly gassed because they have a longer dwell time. Some 6” barrel manufacturers have chosen a proprietary micro length gas system to increase tbe dwell time on their short barrels. Suppressors also effectively increase the length of a barrel, so they are also great tools to increase dwell time. Which is why some guns require suppressors to run subsonic ammo since subs are such low pressure rounds So to answer your question, a longer barrel should be able to supply more gas pressure, so it would make it easier to make a more reliable setup. And yes it would make it easier to run subs qnd supers. But you may still need a suppressor for subs to cycle.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc First off, I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge, thank you! So let me ask your opinion...Do you think the BA 8.3 Hanson barrel would be enough length so that I can run a non-adjustable gas block, and a regular BCG without any issues, or should I go with maybe the 9 inch barrel? I will be running a Rex Silentium Mod X suppressor ( I can run this either in K configuration or screw on more baffles for full length). Would you foresee any issues with that setup running both subs and supers?
@@mattker6210 any time! I love to help! I do believe the BA 8.3 will more than likely work because of the extra dwell time, but you still need a properly sized gas port to work properly with the available dwell time, but in my experience with BA, all their gas ports are undersized, which makes them undergassed. So i now personally avoid their barrels. My go to right now is faxon, as their gas ports are alot more generous. As far as the 8.3 being enough, i think anything longer than 7” should be good to go. The gold standard for a direct impingement AR that runs 300blk is the honey badger, and that runs a 7” barrel with a pistol length gas. We all know the honeybadger and sugarweasel are nothing but reliable. So id say get anything over 7” You can even buy a honeybadger barrel assembly if you want to. I would just suggest getting a barrel with a 1-5 twist. Manufacturers with 1-5 twist that come to mind are faxon, kak industry, and Q llc. But as a rule of thumb, if you want no doubt that itll just run, get an 8” barrel with a pistol length gas. Kak industry sells some with a 1-5 twist But a standard bcg should be able to run both as long as you tune for subs (suppressed). Only issue i foresee is you may need a gas busting charging handle for when you run supers as you will get gas to face from how overgassed it will be. Thats where the bootleg bcg really helps for quick gas adjustment/bleedoff.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc Well I did find the honey badger barrel assembly. That would be amazing since it comes with an adjustable gas block already on it and ready to rock. I also did find a KAK Industries 8inch barrel with a 1:5 twist! That twist rate on an 8 sh it ukd really spin that bullet! The gas port in it though is the same as the BA at .750 and you said you bored yours out to 1.25 I believe? I don't have the ability to do that, but given the length on the barrel I should be OK with that port size yes?
@@mattker6210 yes, the honey badger barrel does have an adjustable gas block which is a huge perk. But you shouldnt have to drill out the gas port with the honey badger barrel or the kak barrel. The .750 you’re talking about is actually the thickness of the barrel, not the gas port size. Basically its telling you the size of gas block you need. The .125” gas port size that i drilled to should only be necessary on a 6” barrel with a pistol length gas tube. But faxon runs that gas port size on their 6” so you wont have to drill anything so long as you just skip BA BA is a coin toss on wether you need to drill or not. Ive owned 3 BA barrels and all were undergassed. If you have the coin the honey badger barrel is an excellent option
Its adjustable, but its not a quick adjust system like the bootleg. Not to mention i cant guarantee the hole drilled on the gas block will be compatible with a .125” gas port.
This is not a fighting setup. Reliability is not there. No point in messing around with these unless you are just a hobby guy. Won’t see me defending my family with something like that.
All guns go through research and development. The only real difference between this and a manufactured setup is that i did the research and development myself instead of a company. I know all its benefits and limitations. Im also in full control over torque specs and the quality control of every item in the gun. Id gladly take this to war now that i did all the research and i know its limitations. But i understand its not for everyone. If this isnt for you, go buy a rattler or honey badger and spend the extra coin. Because thats what you’re paying the extra money for. A gun that just works. That being said, it i ever went to war i would only run supers on this. Which essentially means any and all 300blk guns which struggles with subs will be 100% reliable to run with the extra gas supers provide. To each their own though, i just made this for myself and any that want to venture down this path.
Good stuff. Ive had a few adventures in this realm with different calibers and platforms. I’ve found having a barrel turned with a custom length gas system is usually the easiest first step, mcgowen barrels come to mind. Also, if you only wanted to do subs with faster powders I recommend getting your hands on a CMMG RDB BCG and swapping out the extractor and gas key with a 556 variant and you’re off to the races. Trail boss and red dot both work well, in terms of function, in this regard.
Two things man. First, you need to chuck that folder because that's causing a bunch of your problems. Second, you don't run 87 octane in a race car. Love the concept but the Honey Badger was built around a specific round for a reason. Great stuff, you'll get it. 👍🏻
The folder is actually not the problem since i was able to reduce its weight with the kak extension. Technically, you can run 87 octane in a racecar as long as the tune, compression ratio, spark advance and overall setup is designed/set up for it. Will it lose performance? Yes. But is it doable? also yes. Like you said though, the badger was built around that specific round. I have done the same and puzzled the best items available at this time to allow for its best overall function for 300blk
@@eitrisenhancementsllc I didn't say you can't, pay attention, I said you don't. Unless of course your one of those half ass test and tune want to be's who has no business getting involved. Only an amateur detunes.
@@BravoJulietAlpha Only an amateur tunes for e85 and doesnt include an ethanol content sensor to “de-tune” in case they drive somewhere and only find gas stations with 93 octane. Only an amateur designs an engine to run 93 octane and doesnt account for the fact that the buyer only bought the racecar for looks, has no knowledge of the platform and will more than likely use 87 octane at some point. Only an amateur avoids looking at potential future outcomes. One must consider everything before releasing or building a product. As someone WILL have an issue with it. And blaming the customer never works well. So building fail safes is the best and only option to pursue. Case and point: The sig mcx has 2 gas settings. Normal and adverse. Adverse is there in case the user doesnt clean the weapon, or uses crap ammo. Both of these scenarios are problems induced by the operator, but the manufacturer still went through the trouble of having a feature to correct for operator error or misuse. All products go through testing phases. And only an amateur doesnt look at every possible worst case scenario. Failures are part of the R&D process. And there is nothing wrong with de-tuning, if itll get you out of a bad scenario and avoid a full blown failure.
Thats the most efficient setup for sure. That being said kevin himself sells the honey badger and sugar weasel which sports a 7” barrel. So although not at its optimum. 300blk still shines when used in really short barrels.
Thanks for the overview of these parts! My 300BOs are running 8.5 and 10.5 barrels and run 100% with supers, no surpressor, with stock parts. Now that I have a surpressor, I suspect I'll have some tuning to do, so your video helps with that! 👊🏼🇺🇲👊🏼
@@survivetheattack glad i could help! I definitely suggest using the bootleg bcg. From now on, anything that i plan on installing and removing the can will get a bootleg. Everything else, a superlative gas block works really well.
Just so I'm understanding correctly, the .750 factory gas port ran supers fine? I'm about to build a super short ar build, something that'll fit in the vertex 45l duffel without folding, and this 6" barrel looks like where i need to be. It'll be strictly for supers unsuppressed (the bag will stay in the car ar all times and I'm not leaving a can in the car). I figure a 6" 300blk with 110gr supers will be much better than any pistol caliber anything. Let me see what you think about this possible set up and if you'd forsee any obvious possible issues. This 6" barrel with an adjustable gas block, and that lwrc short buffer tube and stock kit (it's like an inch or so shorter than a carbine tube and has a shorter buffer, looks like the short buffer in the 9mm cmmg banshee). You've kind of got me thinking that i wouldn't need the adjustable block. Also, I'll probably load my own ammo for it too. I really like h110 under a 110gr Varmageddon in my rattler, but i could try different powders if need be for this setup.
The .110 factory gas port on the BA should do perfectly okay with 110gr supers for sure Itll probably just run without the need of anything special. You shouldnt need an adjustable gas block either. Although you wont be able to fit an adjustable because the muzzle is so close to the gas block If you need adjustable gas, even the bootleg is still good for it. Or a rubber city armory adjustable gas key. However i really dont think youll need adjustable gas. H110 will also be a great powder to make it function properly. Ive had great luck with it for supers.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc one of the adjustable gas blocks i was looking at didn't have the adjustment sticking out any further than a regular low profile gas block. Or at least it didn't appear to. But if you're saying it leans towards under gassed (which makes perfect sense with the almost non existant dwell time) then I'd probably never need it. And like you said, if i did somehow need to adjust the gas down a hair then the bootleg carrier could cure that. I got to looking last night at the v7 6.5" barrel. They use a shorter gas system (it's 0.5" shorter than pistol length, iirc), which would significantly increase the dwell time, by comparison. I just don't think i want to drop $350 on just the barrel and gas block for something to leave in the car. I think it could be a really good option for someone though. I appreciate the feedback though man. Really good video too, btw.
I had the same thought, but most ar barrels are 1:7 and not the 1:5 of the rattler. I load subs to 1020 fps with h110 and aa1680 and get perfect function on the - setting on the rattler and my 6.75" tac ops is more picky being a smaller port size, but a little nicer shooting being able to more finely tune the load. And I get a warm fuzzy being able to fire multiple rounds when folded.
Kinda speaks a lot for KAK's baby blonde... kinda the ultimate shorty AR barrel... ample space to bring different gas blocks and handguards into the equation, as well as coming in a 1:5 twist.
Faxon just came out with their 1:5 twist 6” barrel
I actually bought one and im currently running.
Im glad to report the faxon comes with the .125” gas port that i recommended drilling the BA to.
I haven’t had any issue cycling subs and supers. Even switched to a JP SCS which has been hit or miss for me and it’s cycling great. Seems to work well if you have buffer and spring right
POF P415 Edge 10.5 with Sandman S = never a malfunction after a thousand rounds, mix of supers and subs, with or without suppressor, stock setting on factory adj gas block, locks back on either, no drilling, no hoop jumping, no rain dances, just shooting..............hmmmm......... I hope you had fun though......By the way, any relation to Max Headroom?
Wow, my cookiie cutter ATI full polymer factory built 7.5 .300blk has run thousands of supers and subs through a “cheap” can without any issues. Sounds like you got a real deal with that rifle.
Sometimes it be like that!
The real problem with this build is the short dwell time and the gas port size.
In its current state it eats all supers.
But subs are a different animal.
I have now worked a subsonic load that gets 100% reliability. But at 920fps. It even locked back with no suppressor.
I may increase the charge to get at least 1000fps. Or i may go to a lighter bullet.
@@elijahisrael86 the only reason you should consider a lighter bullet is to increase its ability to reach 1000fps from a shorter barrel.
At the end of the day, its all about gas port pressure. With such a short dwell time, you really need a slower burning powder like cfe blk or accurate 1680 to make it effective.
Use these powders and you should encounter zero issues with sub reliability on a 6” barrel as long as you follow my parts list and buffer weight specs
My current load is 220gr projectiles with 12.1gr of cfe blk powder.
And i can make it lock back without the suppressor.
@@elijahisrael86 the dwell time is the same on the BA and the faxon 6”.
HOWEVER, the faxon already has the .125” gas port that is required for reliable function.
So yes, just get the faxon.
This was very interesting and informative information, thank you, I went with a 7.5” barrel and I have a pistol length gas tube , 1:7 twist and I run subs suppressed and supers flawlessly, But I just ordered a 200 round box from Ammo inc and I’m kind of nervous if it’s gonna give me problems. I have yet to find any ammo it will not chew and spit out but from your experience with ammo inc , I think this is a good test for my build and if she passes I will feel very good about my lil truck gun. Again thank you for the video and keep up the good work!!
I believe you wont have issues with the 7.5” as you have an increased dwell time.
Most 300blk powders are really fast powders to make the bullet gain the velocity needed out of shorter barrels.
Although its an excellent solution for short barrels, it also causes problems with gas guns which require more pressure at the gas port.
Its all a balancing act.
But long story short. the longer your pistol gas 300blk barrel is, the less it will be susceptible to these kinds of issues.
Wait you drilled the barrel to .125 but the gas block is .75? What was the initial size of the gas hole in the barrel and why not match that to the same size as the gas block
Nono haha
The gas port size was .110”. I drilled out the gas port to .125”
The .750” is simply the diameter of the barrel where the gas block sits.
Hope this makes more sense!
I wouldn't trust my life to subs if they are barely cycling. It seems anything under 8" is a mixed bag whether they will cycle subs or not. I would just go with a Rattler or another factory setup under 8"
Its all about the powder my guy.
Ive been able to get bolt lock on my 6” barrel without the suppressor simply by using the right powder with subs.
The main problem isnt the barrel length, its the inconsistency in powder usage from ammo manufacturers.
do you think if i used like a 7 or 8 inch barrel there would be more pressure and not have to deal with those things
Its a simple recipe! We already figured the 6” barrel out!
Im not allowed to post links but definitely check out our website. We have everything you need there to get these 6” barrels up and running.
We would be more than happy to help!
What kind of paint did you use to spray your rifle?
THE TINGLER :):):)
Poor man's Black Mamba,, but will do the job just the same. nice kit!
Poor indeed. 1:5 twist barrel is needed.
Its been running a 1:5 for a while my guy
This video is the firearm version of the Charlie from its always sunny in Philadelphia meme lol I watched it at x2 and couldn’t stop thinking it.
Anyway, I did a build with this barrel. I thought mine was severely under gassed as well. I just had to keep pulling off the gas block until it was perfectly aligned. It was such a pain in the as*. I’m running supers, but not suppressed.
Your "trials" regarding this specific platform are much appreciated. Thank you so much for your help.
Amazing video. Thanks for sharing.
I ended up cutting my buffer spring in order to get mine to lock back
Has to be one of the most solid 300 AAC pistols on TH-cam! Great work!
Having gone through this head twice with two differing barrel length uppers and never obtaining a dependable firing weapon, I just bought a Sig MCX Spear LT. Now my weapon fires with any and all ammo.
Thats what you pay for when you buy an mcx upper.
All the research and development is done. Its not all material costs. Its figuring out spring rates, gas port sizes, mass, material cost and strength requirements.
The list goes on.
Im on the verge of getting mine to cycle everything.
Just havent had the time to mess with it since the mods.
Look at my last reel. It shows my 6” 300blk cycling s&b subs with an h2 buffer equivalent and a full mass bcg.
ANY LOCK-BACK YET?
Yes! But with loading your own bullets.
Heres the load data:
Berry’s plated 220gr bullets
2.150” COL
12.1gr of CFE BLK
Cci small rifle primers
Avg 920fps
I may go a higher powder load to get the bullet velocity tailored to the short barrel. Or i could start using 200grn subs to make it easier to reach the velocity.
Either way, i was even able to lock back without the suppressor before the gun was dirty.
GOTCHA…SOUNDS GOOD. THANKS FOR SHARING THE LOAD DATA.
IF YOU DONT MIND, COULD I GET YOUR THOUGHTS OF WHY DO IT THE WAY YOU HAVE HERE…VS BUYING A COMPLETE UPPER FEOM SAY BKF OR SOMEONE SIMILAR.
THNX
@@85ZERO17 of course.
So back when i first built it no one made a complete upper for this barrel. So the only option was to build.
Now with that said, the bkf upper doesnt allow as short of a configuration as my current setup, which my goal was to mimic a sig rattler size.
I also get complete control over torque specs this way. Ive had several manufacturers skip on proper torque specs and procedures to save a quick buck.
I actually have a video in the works showing an m&p sport 2 in which i perform a torque audit to see if its truly good to go or not.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc WHEN DID YOU 1ST BUILD IT…AND WHAT WOULD YOU DO DIFFERENTLY IF YOU DID IT TODAY.
@@85ZERO17 i built it in the beginning of 2021.
If i could do something different, i wouldve dropped the money on a proper length handguard from slr rifleworks.
Thats about it though
Currently have assembled a 8.5 diamondback 300 bo with sylvan arms gen 4 folder on the way, which i know the weight for the extension is 30z. I have a carbine buffer and spring in right now, only going to shoot supers till i get a can. Should i get the reduced yellow spring to counter having a buffer extension? Or should it run fine unsuppressed with supers. I know people online have problems with folders and subs unsuprerssed but like your video they remedied it with a yellow spring, 1 0z buffer.
I guess my main question is should i get the yellow spring and bootleg bcg/drill out port if its not big enough if i dont have a can or shooting subs yet?
EDIT: i checked their site and it says its a aluminum bolt extension, if it's the same as the one they offer for gen 3, it should be 1.1oz. With the standard carbine buffer of 3.1 oz, i'm assuming this shoould run supers and lock back correctly?
With the 8.5” barrel i dont think you will need a sprinco yellow. But at $20 its honestly a worthwhile investment.
Id suggest getting a standard bcg for now and running just supers until you get a suppressor.
Onc you have a suppressor, try out subs. If you end up having to reduce mass and/or spring weight, then i would highly suggest the bootleg as itll reduce the overgassing for when running supers
Theres no need for the bootleg or sprinco yellow if you arent using a suppressor or subs is really what it comes down to
Definitely not even close to the MCX, no piston, doesn’t shoot when folded, no flip switch adjustable gas. Doesn’t properly shoot subsonic=fail
Its close in size to the rattler. Technically it does have a piston (internal piston), it does have quick adjust gas thanks to the bcg, and it shoots subsonic just fine with the right powder 🤷♂️
This sounds like a whole lot of headache for only having a 1.5-2" shorter barrel.
Is it really worth it to get a gun only a small amount shorter?
The headache was mine. If you follow my instructions itll just run. That was the point of the video.
But i think it is. This is by far my favorite setup. It fits everywhere if you take the can off, and its the same length as a 10.5 ar even with the can on.
Its an excellent pdw.
Follow my instructions and you wont have a headache
I built a very similar set up aero lower stag lefty upper stag bcg law Folder,JP Silent capture system ar15 weight 80 lb spring w/ law folder adapter JP adjustable gas block (clamp on) 9 inch chromoly barrel from big daddy for $120 geissle Mk4 rail Gear Head Works tail hook. Same Sure Fire M600 and Sure Fire 3prong Socom. So I used to have a Fostech light weight bcg it ran fine with supers and with subs 200 s&b 220 ammo inc stealth 220 Sig spicy sauce. 110 VMAX ,150 supers ,125 match. But I really wanted to shoot with the gas nit I. My face so I got a nice fde upper from stag and a stag bcg lefty. Matches the Aero m4e1 lower. Radian raptor. I had a crappy gas block with the screw in the front I had to make a tool to get to it, then one day I ordered the JP adjustable clamp on, adjusting is easy bottoms out a bit with supers untill u close it a bit. I could throw in an 85lb spring I bet the bolt holds open. I have a Geissele flat 3 gun trigger but I got to try the Franklin armory fbs3 by optics planet. I heard it double taps amazing. In my opinion with such a similar rig as yours, just add on 3 inches of the barrel and u have virtually no issues. Run whatever u want. Go binary if u want. When I fold this it fits in a 17 inch backpack, flash hider pokes up a bit but u can unscrew that. I just feel like ur taking away accuracy, you have way too short of a hand guard, I'm raming the front of my hand guard against hard wood walls I can have a pec for my flashlight a decent hand stop, this thing is still super short and it's only 3in longer but I bet u it's alot more versatile with ammo and u dont need special bcg. I'm sure your aware of the ballistics with 6 in vs 9. I learned all u need is a 9310 tool steel bolt with any carrier and a titanium fire pin by JP it's pretty cheap titanium take down pins by battle arms and I have a CMMG mag catch to flip mags on the same hand 20 bucks totally optional. I appreciate the fact that u tried to replicate the size of another gun. But in the end u need to feel like the gun is battle ready everyday no matter what with no questions and I do feel like I can pull this out my bag and run binary open up the gas run subs binary or semi any Ammo u give me I use the lancer mag. I accidentally dropped a heavy 18 inch barrel gun on this gun and the mk4 rail just took the abuse. With ease. To reduce weight u could get the Seekins gas block. I would not even tell people to mess about drilling into the gas port only because if they screw it up they need a new barrel. I don't even remember the company name but Big Daddy Unlimited has a 9" 4150 chromoly barrel for 120 bucks black with cooling slits going up the entire barrel. I like the JP SCS because when it's open in the backpack u don't ever need to worry about that buffer and spring falling out because of a detent. The scs is captured nice and well. The tail hook is ATF approved and sturdy compared to the sba3 which u hear the ATF isn't backing anymore. But regardless it's all about feeling confident like ur guns gonna rock and roll accurate too.
I get that! Its all personal preference though.
I love the 6” barrel because its small enough to fit everywhere. Okay especially with the can off.
But with the can on its as long as a mk18 without the can. So its a very maneuverable setup.
So far after sorting my gas issues this gun has been 100%
I have zero complaints, but i also know its limitations.
Could i go buy a gun that just works? Yeah, could i lengthen the barrel and feel like its more reliable? Yes.
But that doesnt fit my goal. So i wont.
But i get it. Its all about what you’re comfortable with. Im comfortable with my setup, so i run it that way. So far i wouldnt get rid of it, and i feel no need in replacing it.
Are they still drilling their gas ports to the incorrect size?
I am unsure at the moment, we have moved on to the faxon barrels due to the 1:5 twist and not having to worry about gas port sizing with them.
What 6 inch upper u using ? I am building my own but I won’t go higher than 6 inch as I am adding a suppressor ..
What’s the shortest suppressor can u add to a 300 blackout ?
Its an upper i built myself.
Consists of a bcm upper, midwest industries combat 4.5” handguard, currently a faxon 6” barrel, vltor clamp on gas block, bootleg adjustable bcg and radian raptor charging handle.
Im not sure what is the shortest suppressor available but i know a deadair sandman k is one of these short ones.
Glad that weapon was cleared and emty.
So what makes this a poor man’s rattler cause you’re basically paying the same price for this if not more than a rattler 
Although my setup has gotten expensive over time. The initial cost of this if you go conservative with the parts is less than half the price of a rattler
Most factory subs run Accurate 1680 or the like, which is a comparatively slower powder than H110 or other common powders for lighter supers.
This is true, and these slow powders were what i needed to get proper function with subs. Currently running cfe blk with great success.
Unfortunately i cant account for what powder manufacturers use. But the common off the shelf subs i found were not reliable for me.
Such a picky system. At some point just save the extra money and buy a rattler.
Its not picky it all now that i figured it out 🤷♂️
The whole point of this video is so people that build one know exactly what to do to avoid issues
I just bought a BA 9” blkout barrel. I hope I don’t have problems
You wont have these problems since you have increased dwell time. Just keep in mind that if you do have these issues, you can reduce mass or use a sprinco yellow spring to correct for it.
We need that update with the faxon barrel. Happy Holidays Brotha I subbed
Just uploaded the update! Its now live! Hope you like the new video!
Do you recommend installing an adjustable gas block?
Adjustable gas blocks dont add gas, they only restrict gas.
Also, because of how the barrel is, an adjustable gas block doesnt fit behind the muzzle
I suggest the bootleg adjustable bcg, as it offers all the benefits of an adjustable gas block.
I have a yankee hill 300blk barrel and I also had to drill out my gas port to run subs. Great vid
Thats how it be sometimes.
Thankfully faxon came out with their 6” barrel with the .125” gas port i recommended. No more drilling required if you just buy a faxon!
Good information !!!!!!!
.....or you could just get a bleed off adjustable gas block (superlative arms)
Never once had a problem w/ subs, supers, or suppressed..
I'm so glad mine didn't become an entire project just to get to cycle properly.
It doesnt fit because the muzzle device is right up against the gas block.
Trust me, if superlative was an option i wouldve used it. I use them on my other builds
The build is half the cost of an mcx in current prices.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc I guess I got lucky with parts alignment then... I have to remove the can to adjust for sure, but I've got about 3mm of clearance from the detent... prolly no way I could run a trilug and/or other types of QD..
Super awesome video though.
@@streamylc sometimes you get lucky like that. Either way im really happy with the bootleg bcg.
My muzzle device leaves no room at all. Especially after i switched to the faxon 6”
Theres barely a shred of light between the gas block and muzzle device.
And thank you! Ill be uploading a barrel comparison soon to tell people which one to get over the other and why.
Great info, im currently trying to get my 6" BA barrel to function with 220g subs. Except I bought a lightweight bcg, emptied the buffer, and got a Tubbs flatwire reduced power buffer spring for .300blk. I tried it with a set screw gas block, but just ordered a clamp on gas block that should help better. I am using a suppressor.
Forgot to add it will cycle supersonic ammo but the S&B subs it would do the same and lock back on the last round on the bolt carrier where it picks up the next round it doesnt go all the way back and lock where the bolt lug is
So theres actually a few other things you could try before drilling the barrel to .125”
#1. The tubbs low power flatwire is actually still 1 lb heavier than the sprinco yellow. So consider this spring as well.
I took measurements and they are like follows:
Tubbs LW: 6lb extended 11lb compressed
Sprinco yellow: 5lb extended 10lb compressed
#2. Cocking the hammer takes energy away from the bcg cycling. Its at the beginning so its imperceptible. That being said, energy is required to cock the hammer, period.
So a reduced power hammer spring may be a good idea. Although only try this with lightweight hammers.
The alg purple spring is available at geissele’s website for stupid cheap. This is as low as you wanna go with a full mass milspec hammer.
Jp also sells lighter hammer springs, but a bobbed or lightweight hammer is recommended
Im set up with an alg purple spring on a geissele ssa-e and the hammer spring has no effect on trigger pull weight on geissele 2 stage triggers.
Otherwise, the final option, is drill the gas port to .125”
You should take more footage of you shooting it, this thing is sexy 🔥
Thanks! There will be more!
I will be making a comparison video betwen this gun, a honey badger and a sig rattler.
It will be more of a talk video with my friends who own these platforms.
But the plan is to include alot more footage!
Just thinking out loud. What about putting a supers in the bottom of the mag for reliable bolt lock back? I'm NOT an operator. I'd think after 10+ rounds, full suppression probably isn't as necessary since someone is probably shooting back. You could also utilize supers towards the end to let you know you're running low and should probably get a fresh mag.
Not a bad idea if i ever have to run manufactured subs again.
As of right now though the reloaded subs im making give me full lock back.
I may try different powders as i have room to play with and actually had to open up the gas a little with cfe blk powder
Cool. I just bought a 9" upper and will be starting the process. :)
I typically load my 9mm PCC with subs for maybe 10-15 since subsonic ammo could be more expensive/rare. I didn't have reliability issues. The final reason was for more kinetic energy via higher velocity.
Wish you would make an update with your new Faxon barrel. I have the same 6” faxon barrel. I want to see some shooting footage.
Its in the works! Ive got a few bits of testing to do with it. Since ive picked up on reloading i want to do a little more testing with it and bcg mass.
Ill also be making a comparison between this gun, a rattler and a honeybadger.
The plan is to have a decent amount of action shots with that video too so make sure you subscribe!
@@elijahisrael86 how does it take someone weeks… to know a firearm shooting subs would need a lighter spring. Sounds like it’s time to fire your gunsmith…that’s just common sense
I’d think the Kak or Faxon 1:5 would have been a better comparison to the rattler.
When i made the video the faxon 1:5 wasnt out yet.
However the faxon barrel is what im running now
I plan on making a follow up video for it soon
@@eitrisenhancementsllc Yes, do a comparison between the 1:7 and 1:5.
Very nice setup. I've been interested in venturing below 9" in barrel length but not sure how reliable that would be.
Mine has been excellent so far.
But the rattler is now a military adopted platform. So that should say everything about the sub 9” guns. Its all about the platform/setup
Wow, that sounds like such a pain in the ass!!
It was! But faxon just released their 6” 300blk barrel which has the same .125” gas port size that i drilled the BA barrel to.
So if you just buy the faxon and follow my instructional, you wont need to do anything crazy other than piece it together!
Great video. I used the same barrel in order to build a more budget friendly Honey Badger SD style pistol. I initially had great function running supers and subs with my Rugged Razor attached to the end. I decided I wanted a dedicated can for the build with a little more suppression so I got a Griffin GP7. Now its ejecting the subs but not picking up the next round. I’m going to try a lightweight adjustable BCG before I drill out the gas port since the SB Honey badger brace uses a nonstandard buffer and spring.
You’re on the right track!
If i may, rubber city armory makes fantastic lightweight bcg’s and they sell them with their adjustable gas key as well.
I do believe you can still remove the buffer weights from the hbpdw buffer.
So that may be an option too!
Best of luck!
@@eitrisenhancementsllc thanks for the recommendation. Primary Arms has that Rubber City BCG on sale, I’ll hopefully get everything tuned up next weekend
@@dlesq8747 great time to purchase then!
Just make sure you’re buying the one thats adjustable as they also offer the same model with a standard gas key
the right one is part no. 111-AGK
Is he telling Hanson he doesn't properly gas his barrels? 😯
Considering faxon makes the same length barrel but with the gas port size i drilled out the BA to.
Im gonna go with yes
@@eitrisenhancementsllc lol fair enough.
Good info, thanks!
So for clarification the gun would not cycle subs suppressed before opening the gas port with factory subsonic ammunition?
This i did not try as i already had some 150gr supers fail to lock back with the factory gas port.
However, considering i was still unable to cycle subs with the new gas port size, i can say with certainty that it would not have cycled.
And this was with a low power spring and an empty buffer.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc try some Sig factory subs if you can. I know they use AA1680 and they are the most energetic I’ve run
@@K-bob_45 ill definitely keep this in mind if i ever buy factory subs again, thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately and fortunately i already tooled up for 300blk reloading and now buying manufactured subs is economically out of the question.
But if im ever in the market ill definitely check them out!
What about running the JP slient capture and the Low mass BCG ?
Im sure this would function well, but as i said in the video, you lose the adjustability the bootleg bcg offers.
You could remove the weights off the jp and keep a standard mass bcg like the bootleg. But then if you wanted to run it on a law tactical folder your cost would be insane.
It would be a $400+ buffer setup if you include the jp kit cost for the law tactical and the folding adapter.
Simply not worth it.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc not worried about the price. Thanks for the information
@@Big6Duke i would also say if you are going to go that route. Make sure you the jp spring kit as it includes a reduced power spring.
I also dont know what their law tactical bcg extension weighs
So just keep in mind as long as you remove the weights off the jp it should work, but since nobody has tried it is still unknown.
However if you do end up using a low mass bcg with it. I expect you will not have any issues with subs. Just might require a gas busting charging handle for running supers
Thank you for this video. I have had so much cycling issues with this barrel I was on the verge of purchasing a new Faxon but think I will give drilling the gas port out first a shot.
Glad i could help!
I responded to your other comment.
But in short, if you dont mind the 1-7 twist then save your money and drill the gas port to .125”
Otherwise if you want a 1-5 twist like i did, skip drilling and buy the faxon
Hope this helps!
You may want to pull off the gas block. Check the barrel to see where the fouling is at the port. Lining the block up perfectly is very important. This fixed my problems. Now I have cycling, I just need to get a smaller gas block that fits with my muzzle device.
Total cost on this build?
The upper on this can be built for around $700 which includes the barrel, gas block, nice receiver, handguard, and bcg.
It can be cheaper, and it can be more expensive.
Realistically the heart of the build is the barrel and bcg. You can save some money by using the BA 6” but faxon now has a 6” and it is substantially better and worth the extra $30-40
Everything else can be whatever you want it to be.
My build is now an expensive setup. But the cost savings you get from the base setup allow you to have extra money for the accessories.
𝐩яⓞ𝓂𝓞Ş𝐦 😁
What buffer weight
Remove the weights inside the buffer. Total weight is 1oz
I'm glad I found this video. Very good info here, so thank you for that. I am currently considering my options for building my .300 Blk upper. So I have a question about the barrel length and gas port length. Is your BA barrel not a pistol-length gas port? It would seem to me it would not matter how long the barrel is after the gas port (is this not correct?). I am just curious if I go with the 9 or 10.3 barrel with the pistol length gas; do you think I would have issues switching between super and sub ammo?
The both the BA and faxon 6” barrels are pistol length gas. And yes, unfortunately the length of the barrel past the gas port does matter. The amount of time between the bullet passing the gas port and then exiting the barrel is called dwell time. The longer the dwell time, the more gas it is able to send through the gas port. The gas will take the path of least resistance so once the bullet leaves the barrel, the biggest hole is now the end of the muzzle.
Longer 300blk barrels with pistol length gas systems tend to be more properly gassed because they have a longer dwell time.
Some 6” barrel manufacturers have chosen a proprietary micro length gas system to increase tbe dwell time on their short barrels.
Suppressors also effectively increase the length of a barrel, so they are also great tools to increase dwell time. Which is why some guns require suppressors to run subsonic ammo since subs are such low pressure rounds
So to answer your question, a longer barrel should be able to supply more gas pressure, so it would make it easier to make a more reliable setup. And yes it would make it easier to run subs qnd supers. But you may still need a suppressor for subs to cycle.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc First off, I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge, thank you! So let me ask your opinion...Do you think the BA 8.3 Hanson barrel would be enough length so that I can run a non-adjustable gas block, and a regular BCG without any issues, or should I go with maybe the 9 inch barrel? I will be running a Rex Silentium Mod X suppressor ( I can run this either in K configuration or screw on more baffles for full length). Would you foresee any issues with that setup running both subs and supers?
@@mattker6210 any time! I love to help!
I do believe the BA 8.3 will more than likely work because of the extra dwell time, but you still need a properly sized gas port to work properly with the available dwell time, but in my experience with BA, all their gas ports are undersized, which makes them undergassed. So i now personally avoid their barrels. My go to right now is faxon, as their gas ports are alot more generous.
As far as the 8.3 being enough, i think anything longer than 7” should be good to go.
The gold standard for a direct impingement AR that runs 300blk is the honey badger, and that runs a 7” barrel with a pistol length gas. We all know the honeybadger and sugarweasel are nothing but reliable.
So id say get anything over 7”
You can even buy a honeybadger barrel assembly if you want to.
I would just suggest getting a barrel with a 1-5 twist.
Manufacturers with 1-5 twist that come to mind are faxon, kak industry, and Q llc.
But as a rule of thumb, if you want no doubt that itll just run, get an 8” barrel with a pistol length gas. Kak industry sells some with a 1-5 twist
But a standard bcg should be able to run both as long as you tune for subs (suppressed). Only issue i foresee is you may need a gas busting charging handle for when you run supers as you will get gas to face from how overgassed it will be.
Thats where the bootleg bcg really helps for quick gas adjustment/bleedoff.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc Well I did find the honey badger barrel assembly. That would be amazing since it comes with an adjustable gas block already on it and ready to rock. I also did find a KAK Industries 8inch barrel with a 1:5 twist! That twist rate on an 8 sh it ukd really spin that bullet! The gas port in it though is the same as the BA at .750 and you said you bored yours out to 1.25 I believe? I don't have the ability to do that, but given the length on the barrel I should be OK with that port size yes?
@@mattker6210 yes, the honey badger barrel does have an adjustable gas block which is a huge perk. But you shouldnt have to drill out the gas port with the honey badger barrel or the kak barrel.
The .750 you’re talking about is actually the thickness of the barrel, not the gas port size.
Basically its telling you the size of gas block you need.
The .125” gas port size that i drilled to should only be necessary on a 6” barrel with a pistol length gas tube. But faxon runs that gas port size on their 6” so you wont have to drill anything so long as you just skip BA
BA is a coin toss on wether you need to drill or not.
Ive owned 3 BA barrels and all were undergassed.
If you have the coin the honey badger barrel is an excellent option
What about the Q gas block?
Its adjustable, but its not a quick adjust system like the bootleg.
Not to mention i cant guarantee the hole drilled on the gas block will be compatible with a .125” gas port.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc thanks, I'll look to get the gas block on your parts list
This is not a fighting setup. Reliability is not there. No point in messing around with these unless you are just a hobby guy. Won’t see me defending my family with something like that.
All guns go through research and development. The only real difference between this and a manufactured setup is that i did the research and development myself instead of a company.
I know all its benefits and limitations.
Im also in full control over torque specs and the quality control of every item in the gun.
Id gladly take this to war now that i did all the research and i know its limitations. But i understand its not for everyone.
If this isnt for you, go buy a rattler or honey badger and spend the extra coin. Because thats what you’re paying the extra money for. A gun that just works.
That being said, it i ever went to war i would only run supers on this. Which essentially means any and all 300blk guns which struggles with subs will be 100% reliable to run with the extra gas supers provide.
To each their own though, i just made this for myself and any that want to venture down this path.
Good stuff. Ive had a few adventures in this realm with different calibers and platforms. I’ve found having a barrel turned with a custom length gas system is usually the easiest first step, mcgowen barrels come to mind. Also, if you only wanted to do subs with faster powders I recommend getting your hands on a CMMG RDB BCG and swapping out the extractor and gas key with a 556 variant and you’re off to the races. Trail boss and red dot both work well, in terms of function, in this regard.
Two things man. First, you need to chuck that folder because that's causing a bunch of your problems. Second, you don't run 87 octane in a race car. Love the concept but the Honey Badger was built around a specific round for a reason. Great stuff, you'll get it. 👍🏻
The folder is actually not the problem since i was able to reduce its weight with the kak extension.
Technically, you can run 87 octane in a racecar as long as the tune, compression ratio, spark advance and overall setup is designed/set up for it. Will it lose performance? Yes. But is it doable? also yes.
Like you said though, the badger was built around that specific round. I have done the same and puzzled the best items available at this time to allow for its best overall function for 300blk
@@eitrisenhancementsllc I didn't say you can't, pay attention, I said you don't. Unless of course your one of those half ass test and tune want to be's who has no business getting involved. Only an amateur detunes.
@@BravoJulietAlpha Only an amateur tunes for e85 and doesnt include an ethanol content sensor to “de-tune” in case they drive somewhere and only find gas stations with 93 octane.
Only an amateur designs an engine to run 93 octane and doesnt account for the fact that the buyer only bought the racecar for looks, has no knowledge of the platform and will more than likely use 87 octane at some point.
Only an amateur avoids looking at potential future outcomes.
One must consider everything before releasing or building a product. As someone WILL have an issue with it. And blaming the customer never works well. So building fail safes is the best and only option to pursue.
Case and point:
The sig mcx has 2 gas settings. Normal and adverse. Adverse is there in case the user doesnt clean the weapon, or uses crap ammo.
Both of these scenarios are problems induced by the operator, but the manufacturer still went through the trouble of having a feature to correct for operator error or misuse.
All products go through testing phases.
And only an amateur doesnt look at every possible worst case scenario.
Failures are part of the R&D process. And there is nothing wrong with de-tuning, if itll get you out of a bad scenario and avoid a full blown failure.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc E85 is not cheap. Cost per gallon yes. It uses twice as much.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc outstanding discussion btw. I really appreciate it.
According to Kevin Brittingham, who was a key inventor of the AAC .300 Blackout. You need a 9 in 1in 5 twist barrel for a propper. 300 Blackout rifle.
Thats the most efficient setup for sure. That being said kevin himself sells the honey badger and sugar weasel which sports a 7” barrel.
So although not at its optimum. 300blk still shines when used in really short barrels.
Thanks for the overview of these parts! My 300BOs are running 8.5 and 10.5 barrels and run 100% with supers, no surpressor, with stock parts. Now that I have a surpressor, I suspect I'll have some tuning to do, so your video helps with that! 👊🏼🇺🇲👊🏼
@@survivetheattack glad i could help!
I definitely suggest using the bootleg bcg.
From now on, anything that i plan on installing and removing the can will get a bootleg.
Everything else, a superlative gas block works really well.
Just so I'm understanding correctly, the .750 factory gas port ran supers fine?
I'm about to build a super short ar build, something that'll fit in the vertex 45l duffel without folding, and this 6" barrel looks like where i need to be. It'll be strictly for supers unsuppressed (the bag will stay in the car ar all times and I'm not leaving a can in the car). I figure a 6" 300blk with 110gr supers will be much better than any pistol caliber anything.
Let me see what you think about this possible set up and if you'd forsee any obvious possible issues.
This 6" barrel with an adjustable gas block, and that lwrc short buffer tube and stock kit (it's like an inch or so shorter than a carbine tube and has a shorter buffer, looks like the short buffer in the 9mm cmmg banshee).
You've kind of got me thinking that i wouldn't need the adjustable block.
Also, I'll probably load my own ammo for it too. I really like h110 under a 110gr Varmageddon in my rattler, but i could try different powders if need be for this setup.
The .110 factory gas port on the BA should do perfectly okay with 110gr supers for sure
Itll probably just run without the need of anything special.
You shouldnt need an adjustable gas block either. Although you wont be able to fit an adjustable because the muzzle is so close to the gas block
If you need adjustable gas, even the bootleg is still good for it. Or a rubber city armory adjustable gas key.
However i really dont think youll need adjustable gas.
H110 will also be a great powder to make it function properly. Ive had great luck with it for supers.
@@eitrisenhancementsllc one of the adjustable gas blocks i was looking at didn't have the adjustment sticking out any further than a regular low profile gas block. Or at least it didn't appear to. But if you're saying it leans towards under gassed (which makes perfect sense with the almost non existant dwell time) then I'd probably never need it. And like you said, if i did somehow need to adjust the gas down a hair then the bootleg carrier could cure that.
I got to looking last night at the v7 6.5" barrel. They use a shorter gas system (it's 0.5" shorter than pistol length, iirc), which would significantly increase the dwell time, by comparison. I just don't think i want to drop $350 on just the barrel and gas block for something to leave in the car. I think it could be a really good option for someone though.
I appreciate the feedback though man. Really good video too, btw.
Thx for doing this video.
No problem!