Absolutely love this t100 series. I didn’t see anything wrong with your work and the fact that you said “it’s just me working” at the end is what I’m looking for. No how to’s just mechanical content for my entertainment. 👍🏽
Enjoying T100 content. Have a 2WD SR5 (‘95). Watch all the how-to content I find popping up. I appreciate your “not a how-to” style, but being a novice that’s sort of my enjoyment zone. Your style is just fine. Did miss watching disassembly of axel, though. My personal thing is that I’m disabled and have little experience, so your laidback style and matter-of-fact way about it helps me with any anxiety that pops up. Enjoyed your garage/estate sale video too. Thanks for producing your content!
Great little series! BTW, isn’t there supposed to be a snap ring on the end of the CV axle (behind the hubs)? There is on my ‘96 T. Side note, you should delete the ADD system and clamp the fork in the front diff to lock it in place, so you don’t have to depend on the vacuum system that’s prone to failure to engage 4x4. It only took about an hour to do for me.
There’s a debate on the usefulness of the snap rings, with fair points on putting them back and leaving them out. My only reason for leaving them out was that they were already missing. I have every intention to either block out the ADD, or possibly swap out the long axle side with a non-ADD unit (I have a spare), but I also have thoughts of an SAS using an FJ-80 front axle that’s currently taking up space in my shed. Only time will tell…
“An honest politician” 😂 I love being able to shift into 4wd and out on the fly. I did get rid of the add though. I put in a full time front diff and a Eaton e locker. I have the no spin locker in the back. Absolutely love them. Hopefully you went with koyo or timken bearings.
The manual hubs disengage the CV axles, so there’s a little less drag, and a lot less wear and tear. They also allow the Automatic Differential Disconnect to be deleted if desired. The “ADD” system is a bit complex for its purpose, and can also be problematic as well as fairly expensive to repair. Moreover, the manual hubs are much simpler, and a preference item for me.
@@sweetwilliam49 It’s not a kit. I pulled the manual hubs from a truck at pick-a-part. Any ‘86 to ‘95 4WD pickup or 4Runner interchange directly. Just remove the solid drive plate and replace the locking hub in its place.
Спасибо вам за ваши видео! 🤝 Я из России. У нас в стране всего 2 или 3 таких машины. Никакой информации про них нет. Смотрю ваши видео как уроки по ремонту. Ещё раз спасибо! 🤝👍
Good looking truck Greg, I have a 1995 T100 4WD as well. When you installed manual locking hub, Did you have to do anything with sensor or vacuum line? Thanks and looking forward for more videos .
If it operates properly, no action is required. You may, if you wish, lock the ADD actuator into the engaged position. I haven’t yet done this, but it may be the subject of a future video.
All considered, it seems to work amazingly well. I did put a top charge on it (next video teaser). This truck sat for about 10 years before I bought it, and had leaked down a bit.
@@CubicleClowns they did rub just a bit on the original mud flaps, but only on a bump in a full lock turn. I have in mind to raise the front end an inch or two to level the ride height, which should remedy the interference. Until then, I’ve removed the flaps.
The slip yoke and locking hubs came from a local wrecking yard, the brake pads from Auto Zone, and I found the wheels and tires on Facebook marketplace.
This video is pure gold that’s exactly what I have to do to my T100.
Thanks man.
Love the videos! Keep it up. I was looking forward to this video for a while.
Absolutely love this t100 series. I didn’t see anything wrong with your work and the fact that you said “it’s just me working” at the end is what I’m looking for. No how to’s just mechanical content for my entertainment. 👍🏽
one of the best videos I've found! thanks!
Enjoying T100 content. Have a 2WD SR5 (‘95). Watch all the how-to content I find popping up. I appreciate your “not a how-to” style, but being a novice that’s sort of my enjoyment zone. Your style is just fine. Did miss watching disassembly of axel, though. My personal thing is that I’m disabled and have little experience, so your laidback style and matter-of-fact way about it helps me with any anxiety that pops up. Enjoyed your garage/estate sale video too. Thanks for producing your content!
💯 love this. Keep it going!! Great videos
It seems that it is mine that you are repairing, it is even the same color😂😂
These are excellent! We want to see more
Thanks! More to come.
Great little series! BTW, isn’t there supposed to be a snap ring on the end of the CV axle (behind the hubs)? There is on my ‘96 T. Side note, you should delete the ADD system and clamp the fork in the front diff to lock it in place, so you don’t have to depend on the vacuum system that’s prone to failure to engage 4x4. It only took about an hour to do for me.
There’s a debate on the usefulness of the snap rings, with fair points on putting them back and leaving them out. My only reason for leaving them out was that they were already missing. I have every intention to either block out the ADD, or possibly swap out the long axle side with a non-ADD unit (I have a spare), but I also have thoughts of an SAS using an FJ-80 front axle that’s currently taking up space in my shed. Only time will tell…
You should film your adventures at the wrecking yards.
I’ve thought to try that. Thanks for your input.
I like your videos.keep them comino.thanks 👍
“An honest politician” 😂 I love being able to shift into 4wd and out on the fly. I did get rid of the add though. I put in a full time front diff and a Eaton e locker. I have the no spin locker in the back. Absolutely love them. Hopefully you went with koyo or timken bearings.
I like those hubs, Might pick up a few MPG's if I had them
They also save some wear on the CV axles.
@@skyking252 I would imagine! Going from rotating every mile to only when engaged..
Pretty good video! What the advantage of manual locking hubs! I have a 97 model. That’ll make a good truck. Compression will get higher
The manual hubs disengage the CV axles, so there’s a little less drag, and a lot less wear and tear. They also allow the Automatic Differential Disconnect to be deleted if desired. The “ADD” system is a bit complex for its purpose, and can also be problematic as well as fairly expensive to repair. Moreover, the manual hubs are much simpler, and a preference item for me.
@@skyking252 probably improved gas mileage as well. Where did you buy the kit
@@sweetwilliam49 It’s not a kit. I pulled the manual hubs from a truck at pick-a-part. Any ‘86 to ‘95 4WD pickup or 4Runner interchange directly. Just remove the solid drive plate and replace the locking hub in its place.
Спасибо вам за ваши видео! 🤝
Я из России. У нас в стране всего 2 или 3 таких машины. Никакой информации про них нет. Смотрю ваши видео как уроки по ремонту.
Ещё раз спасибо! 🤝👍
Thanks so much
Eric, why didn’t we hear the clever music when you sprayed the brake clean ? Also why did you change your shirt three times ?
I suppose that I edit shirts better than video, but I’ll work on that…
No wheel chocks?
Chocks are never a bad idea, and I have no legitimate excuse for not using them every time. That being said, I tend to get lazy…
Good looking truck Greg, I have a 1995 T100 4WD as well.
When you installed manual locking hub, Did you have to do anything with sensor or vacuum line? Thanks and looking forward for more videos .
If it operates properly, no action is required. You may, if you wish, lock the ADD actuator into the engaged position. I haven’t yet done this, but it may be the subject of a future video.
How does your air work mine feels like some vent doors won’t let nothing in if you do find similar problem post it pls
All considered, it seems to work amazingly well. I did put a top charge on it (next video teaser). This truck sat for about 10 years before I bought it, and had leaked down a bit.
What size tires did you put on? Are those BFGs?
They’re BFG K02, LT275/70R17. They seem to be working out well.
@@skyking252 do they rub at all under load or when turning?
@@CubicleClowns they did rub just a bit on the original mud flaps, but only on a bump in a full lock turn. I have in mind to raise the front end an inch or two to level the ride height, which should remedy the interference. Until then, I’ve removed the flaps.
I honest thought those 4runner wheels were kind of on the ugly side. However, they look good on the T100.
Yeah, they weren’t really what I was looking for at the time, but they were a great deal with the tires, and they ended up looking just fine.
@@skyking252 what size are the tires? I just bought a 97 t100 5-speed 4x4 and it needs some love.
@@jdmDC2ftw LT275/70R17
Where'd you get the parts from?
The slip yoke and locking hubs came from a local wrecking yard, the brake pads from Auto Zone, and I found the wheels and tires on Facebook marketplace.
Thanks!