You did a good job, this one and also covering the rear of the horns with Dynamat. Klipsch should implement your improvements on their production line.
I rebuilt a pair of 1.5s from 1983 that had been sitting in a damp basement for 30 years. I added as much bracing as that model could handle as the drivers are rear-mounted so the whole back comes off. It really cut down on the cabinet resonance and ringing. I combined a closed-cell heavy damping foam with acoustic wool mats to handle both high and low frequencies. I did the same to my woofer baskets as you did. I will say that when GR Research did their crossover kit for the Cornwalls he recommended adding bracing exactly like you are doing. My project was a big one but they sound great even if some of the purists in the Klipsh FB group clutched their pearls and wept.
Nice job on the bracing. I did mine a couple months ago, but I didn’t do the front to back brace or dynamite the air ports on the bottom, I may have to go back and do these also. I covered the entire metal area of the bass baskets with the dynamite, just had to do it You just may like the new sound of the bass and some other things, but I’ll let you report back.
@@tedrubinstein2003 Thanks. The front to rear braces help a lot but they need to be precisely cut or, alternatively, use carpentry shims to adjust their length. I’ll be reporting on what I hear soon.
Great to see you got the FR-Research stuff. Only saw this after adding comments on yr other videos… Great job. Theres a lot of loyal Klipsch fanboys on the Facebook Klipsch group that won’t hear of tampering with what the experts at Klipsch have deemed the perfect product !!
I’m doing the same as we speak. I braced the cabinets and will put in no rez. I’ve seen some use small pieces on the drivers, but I may use the dyno mat as you’ve done instead.
Thanks for video! Could u help and give front woofer mount screws sizes, if you know such info. I need to buy a new set of the screws , I spoil two unfortunately
I would almost think that doubling the motorboard on the inside would do a really good job stiffening. I love my Forte II, but In no way are they a $4k or more speaker. For $200 they are a fantastic speaker. For $200 with a pair of Prodigy mini towers and a low end Technics TT and 2 NIB carts they are an exceptional speaker. I should take a look at the XOs, but despite being from '89 they sound tight. I couldn't get a pr of Is to sound correct and I kept tinkering. I haven't even looked inside of these in the 3+ yrs I've had them. Not sure how similar the XOs are but I got some quality components to build AlK's XO design. Air core inductors, I got sandcast resistors and had done the Sonicaps already. The II's confirmed what my ears already knew. Sumptin was funky with the Is. Couldn't put my finger on it, just had some KG4s way back and knew that I should have been more impressed
You must really like those speakers on some deeper level to bother with this which I respect. The fact that that company still puts out expensive speakers with so little regard for cabinets, bracing, etc. really turns me off personally.
@@thebostonaudiophile Me too. I just tinkered a good sounding set of 1978 JBL L50's into a great sounding pair. Did extra bracing, and sound deadening , built new crossovers, and added new binding posts which eliminated the magnetic steel nuts from the signal path. I also filled the hollow metal speaker stands with kitty litter. All those changes made a night and day difference. The clarity and bass so much better
I’m not sure that dampening cabinet and horn resonances will help the sound of these speakers. It is possible that these resonances are important to the voicing of the speakers sound characteristics. Thank you for showing and telling us about these great speakers. I’m interested to hear about what you do with the crossovers and cabinets.
Funny how people think they're music professionals and put down this American made iconic speaker. Just because you don't want to pay for them doesn't make the cheaper speakers better. People don't buy these because they like 100 pound speakers, they buy them because they like the sound. If you don't, why are you even here?
I applaud you for trying to improve this poor cabinet, the vertical bracing you have from front to back is not actually helping that much, it is transferring flex from front panel, the back panel. You might have a better result if you ran racing across the front panel. and back panel and side panels in full width from side to side. If you were in doubt, go, speak with a structural engineer best of luck.
First, I am a mechanical engineer, not a structural engineer. The front to back braces are much more effective than one might think. If the front and back of the cabinet were identical, that would double the stiffness. But, they are not identical. The back of the cabinet is solid, the front has some very narrow portions. So adding the front to back connections, under slight compression, more than doubles the rigidity of the motor board. I’d guess it’s closer to 4x more rigid.
just lol at these cornhole speakers, want american big woofer speakers, Grab a pair of Tekton Epic 15 at half the price and will blow these back into the 70's where they belong.
You did a good job, this one and also covering the rear of the horns with Dynamat. Klipsch should implement your improvements on their production line.
I rebuilt a pair of 1.5s from 1983 that had been sitting in a damp basement for 30 years. I added as much bracing as that model could handle as the drivers are rear-mounted so the whole back comes off. It really cut down on the cabinet resonance and ringing. I combined a closed-cell heavy damping foam with acoustic wool mats to handle both high and low frequencies. I did the same to my woofer baskets as you did. I will say that when GR Research did their crossover kit for the Cornwalls he recommended adding bracing exactly like you are doing. My project was a big one but they sound great even if some of the purists in the Klipsh FB group clutched their pearls and wept.
@@tmdillon1969 Bracing really helps.
“clutched their pearls” 😂
Great job my friend ! One can tell that you have put a lot of thought into the process. I bet they will sound great.🙂
@@lynnpoole7830 thanks. We’ll see …
Nice job on the bracing. I did mine a couple months ago, but I didn’t do the front to back brace or dynamite the air ports on the bottom, I may have to go back and do these also.
I covered the entire metal area of the bass baskets with the dynamite, just had to do it
You just may like the new sound of the bass and some other things, but I’ll let you report back.
@@tedrubinstein2003 Thanks. The front to rear braces help a lot but they need to be precisely cut or, alternatively, use carpentry shims to adjust their length. I’ll be reporting on what I hear soon.
@@tedrubinstein2003 👍
@@thebostonaudiophile What’s the actual size of the braces you have going from front to rear. It looks like about 3/4” x 2”
Great to see you got the FR-Research stuff. Only saw this after adding comments on yr other videos… Great job. Theres a lot of loyal Klipsch fanboys on the Facebook Klipsch group that won’t hear of tampering with what the experts at Klipsch have deemed the perfect product !!
Would appreciate an update on this if you are able to make one.
Thank you
I’m doing the same as we speak. I braced the cabinets and will put in no rez. I’ve seen some use small pieces on the drivers, but I may use the dyno mat as you’ve done instead.
On the wood bracing struts, and corner bracing, how are you attaching these pieces? Just glue? Or, screwing in as well? Thank you.
@@jeffreypicciolo7706 Glue and nails from a nail gun.
Great job, actually should be the the job of Klipsch..a shame to see the original damping and drivers with stamped steel baskets 😒
@@justasimplefox Thank you for watching!
Would it be benefical to cover the panels first with dynamat? And then maybe this no rez stuff on top of that?
Thanks for video! Could u help and give front woofer mount screws sizes, if you know such info. I need to buy a new set of the screws , I spoil two unfortunately
I would almost think that doubling the motorboard on the inside would do a really good job stiffening. I love my Forte II, but In no way are they a $4k or more speaker. For $200 they are a fantastic speaker. For $200 with a pair of Prodigy mini towers and a low end Technics TT and 2 NIB carts they are an exceptional speaker. I should take a look at the XOs, but despite being from '89 they sound tight. I couldn't get a pr of Is to sound correct and I kept tinkering. I haven't even looked inside of these in the 3+ yrs I've had them. Not sure how similar the XOs are but I got some quality components to build AlK's XO design. Air core inductors, I got sandcast resistors and had done the Sonicaps already. The II's confirmed what my ears already knew. Sumptin was funky with the Is. Couldn't put my finger on it, just had some KG4s way back and knew that I should have been more impressed
@@BigFarm_ah365 Doubling the motor board would be good too, but I’d have to do it in pieces to get the doubler in the box. 🤔
Looks like 3/4" particle board, even though alot of people swear Cornwalls are made of plywood
You must really like those speakers on some deeper level to bother with this which I respect. The fact that that company still puts out expensive speakers with so little regard for cabinets, bracing, etc. really turns me off personally.
@@CashGravel I don’t like them on a deeper level … not that I’m aware of anyway. I just enjoy thinking and tinkering.
@@thebostonaudiophile Me too. I just tinkered a good sounding set of 1978 JBL L50's into a great sounding pair. Did extra bracing, and sound deadening , built new crossovers, and added new binding posts which eliminated the magnetic steel nuts from the signal path. I also filled the hollow metal speaker stands with kitty litter. All those changes made a night and day difference. The clarity and bass so much better
I’m not sure that dampening cabinet and horn resonances will help the sound of these speakers. It is possible that these resonances are important to the voicing of the speakers sound characteristics.
Thank you for showing and telling us about these great speakers.
I’m interested to hear about what you do with the crossovers and cabinets.
i got rid of my cw4s - someone else's problem now - i'm happy camper now with my Qualio IQ Ultra
Funny how people think they're music professionals and put down this American made iconic speaker. Just because you don't want to pay for them doesn't make the cheaper speakers better. People don't buy these because they like 100 pound speakers, they buy them because they like the sound. If you don't, why are you even here?
I applaud you for trying to improve this poor cabinet, the vertical bracing you have from front to back is not actually helping that much, it is transferring flex from front panel, the back panel. You might have a better result if you ran racing across the front panel. and back panel and side panels in full width from side to side. If you were in doubt, go, speak with a structural engineer best of luck.
First, I am a mechanical engineer, not a structural engineer.
The front to back braces are much more effective than one might think. If the front and back of the cabinet were identical, that would double the stiffness. But, they are not identical. The back of the cabinet is solid, the front has some very narrow portions. So adding the front to back connections, under slight compression, more than doubles the rigidity of the motor board. I’d guess it’s closer to 4x more rigid.
just lol at these cornhole speakers, want american big woofer speakers, Grab a pair of Tekton Epic 15 at half the price and will blow these back into the 70's where they belong.
@@StrangeBrewReviews Cornwall, Cornhole. Lol. They do look like Cornhole boards, sort of. 😂
Do you own the Epic 15's???
@singram1978 I own different tekton speakers, but I've heard all the klipsch....Tekton wipes the floor with klipsch...it's not even close.
great video! I'm curious, how do you clamp/ secure the braces while the glue is drying?