Thanks a ton man this is basically the exact process for the Ender 3 S1 if anyone else has one, just go to that file on gihub instead of the 3v2 shown here :)
Excellent guide, thanks. Had watched others but couldnt get firmware to load. After watching this video I used a freshly formatted SD card and also disconnected the Ender3 screen. One or both of those did the trick. Success!
Best Klipper install guide I've found, thanks! I had to make sure my SD card was formatted correctly, ended up using the Raspberry Pi image tool to format it. Also took 2-3 tries for the flash to take, not sure why. But, working now.
Fantastic tutorial. Lays everything out nice and clearly. Only one small note to users wishing to replicate this, the raspberry pi imager ui has slightly changed. All the same options are there under the same name, they are just in a different location. If you have stock hardware this is the best guide I've seen. If you have modified hardware this tutorial is still amazing, the one thing to keep in mind is you will need to tweak your printer.cfg file, but the documentation for your parts should include most if not all of the values you need to tweak.
Worked! Two head-bangers; make menuconfig was not showing the screen you had, it only had amega, google found the answer: spacebar. The Raspberry PI was not showing up: Damn USB micro to A power only cords! I'm going to go watch your Zero 2W next, at $15 a pop and they can run off the systems power that will be a tronxy and hictop upgrade next, I mentioned Zero 2W to a Creality user and got the lecture about hardware Klipper supports along with links and tisk-tisk sounds. Subscribed and Liked, good sound, good light and well paced.
Just found this video and adapted to the non neo version ("adapted" :D) have to say: very nice video. Structured so well and explained in a good speed, volume. Really easy listening to you and doing all this stuff on the second monitor. cheers
OMG, this worked so perfectly, cant thank you enough. Straight to the point, so easy, I tried numerous other videos and this by far was 100% the best, GREAT JOB!!
Great video, wonderful guide 👍 Is there any advantage running Klipper on a Pi 4 /4GB of RAM as opposed to a Pi3B+ (1GB RAM)? Will a Pi 3B+ run as smoothly as a Pi4 4GB RAM and create the same quality prints? Thank you :-))
Thanks! There's no real advantage unless you want to make multiple instances of Klipper run off of 1 Pi, even then a 3B+ would be just fine. Klipper doesn't take up a lot of resources at all, so you should be more than good with your set-up.
this is a greta guide. if you wanted to make it better, make people use mobaxterm instead of putty, that way they are allready connected and can browse the folder structure when they connect to ssh, and dont need to FTP inn in a different session.
Thank you so much - 2 month ago I though that I never would having klipper. Everyone told me that it is so difficult to install klipper and use it. Today I followed your video and I had some problems - first my putty would not make same as yours - butit came, it was my ip adress. Then it was difficult to have the FTP server installed at windows 10 - but I got it and then it was fast - everything do now as your video. One thing you should link up to is - now for beginners - how to use your printer now, where do you control it and put in files for printing?
Glad to hear that the video was helpful and that you're up and running on Klipper! Yes, one of my next vids will be covering what are some helpful things to do after you've converted to Klipper. Hoping to get it out by this coming Wednesday!
You can still use any slicer that you normally use. If you use Cura, Prusa Slicer or Super Slicer, they can all connect to Moonraker to upload directly to your printer. You can also still save your sliced g-code to your computer and then upload the g-code file right into Mainsail as well.
Thanks for the video! I have a quick question. After I installed Klipper, do I need to setup input shaping? It seems my printer now is printing at fast speeds and is a bit louder. It's weird because the settings on the Klipper gui was the same as yours. Let me know your thoughts, and I apologize for my lack of knowledge as i am new to Klipper!
Input shaping isn't necessarily required, but will help with quality, especially at higher speeds. Klipper by default increases the printing speed by a bit, so it's normal for your printer to be working a bit more quickly even on default settings.
Hello! Thanks for the video! Could you help me, because I've been trying for 2 days and my raspberry pi 4 can't connect to wifi. I've tried with the latest mainsailos, I've tried with older ones, but the result is always that it doesn't connect to wifi. What can I do wrong? I do everything as I saw in your video. Maybe you can think of something. Thanks for the answer !
Nice video! I have the Ender 4v2 Neo Max today with MriscoC Firmware and its working so good! However, is it possible touse your guideance in the video and install Klipper like this and have it to work properly without issues? Any concerns?
This was great. I had klipper on my ender3 with a BTT SKT mini v3 board over a year ago then there was some update that crashed everything then I just took a year+ break from using that printer and just used my other stock Ender3 v2.
Thank you for your guidance on setting up Klipper. It has made the installation process much easier for me. However, I am currently experiencing issues with my old Start G-code that I used with Cura before. It's showing some 'Unknown command' errors. I suspect it's because Klipper uses a different Start G-code system compared to the original Ender system. Could you please provide me with your G-code start configuration for Klipper? Once again, thank you very much for the setup guidance.
Great video, followed it as you did on screen. Only problem I have is i can't connect to it after installing mainsail on the pie, just keeps saying the site cant be reached. Redid the image like 4 times and still doesn't work. Any suggestions?
You should be able to use it, but just make sure you set the correct safe points in the bed mesh section of the printer.cfg as well as safe homing etc...
Yes, you'll either need to find and use the correct Printer.config file for it or modify the V2 Neo's printer.config file to match the bed size, thermistor, rotation distance etc... also make sure that the max 3 neo uses the same mainboard.
Was stuck at the last step, MCU didn't show up on System Loads.. (putty was fine) Formated SD Card and flashed firmware again. Now its working! Using the ENDER 3v2. Thanks a lot man!
hi i have an erreur on the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE it show No trigger on probe after full movement coulde it be the config of bltouch is not the same of cr touch
Does the original display not work with this firmware? I was just wondering as my screen has gone dark after installing everything. Besides that, everything works GREAT!
That is correct. You would either need to do some more configurations or use compatible Klipper Screen hardware. If you want to use the factory screen, follow this guide: www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/s/uVGJNFKlDz
I have followed every step and somehow ran into an issue that I haven't been able to google... on my Klipper Firmware Configuration menu the communication interface and bootloader options are not listed at all.
@viniciusgoncalvesdeoliveir440 No worries at all! There's so many different options changing every single month, so it's definitely difficult to keep up with. I don't have a video for those yet, but 3DNero probably does.
I just tried to print something, the nozzle is 1/8" above the bed as it extrudes, the left edge 'warm-up' line is on the edge of the bed. I tried to find where to tell klipper to reset Z 0 but can't find anything, I 'adjusted' the bed up to the point the springs are almost loose to get 'up' to the nozzle but I really need a means to drop the head down.
soooo... do i need to keep raspberry plugged in ender? or will ender work just by itself as on marlin? what about the screen? is it needed? does it work? i have ender 3 neo. non V2 with all screen.
Thanks! I wouldn't waste time using the stock mainboard on the CR-5 pro h with Klipper as most people seem to have issues with it. The better alternative would be using Klipper with an SKR Mini E3 or similar as those boards have much better features and are significantly more reliable. I went through 2 CR-5 Pro H mainboards on mine before I gave up and switched. The light will be disabled, unless you use a Raspberry Pi or similar microcontroller hooked up to a relay board. From there you can configure the Pi in Putty to activate one of the GPIO pins to trigger the relay with a command in Klipper. Since I used the Orange Pi Zero 2 on mine, I wasn't able to get the GPIO pins to function, so I just made a simple physical switch mounted to the outside of the printer to turn the light on and off. If I get some time, I'll do an overview on the setup.
@@ulas9561 Thanks, hoping to get some new content out soon! Just catching up with the final orders of my Black Friday and Cyber Monday sale. After the orders are all shipped out, I should have time to make some new vids.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but I'm just starting to look into klipper for my machine, but what's the deal with accelerometers? Do I need to install one additionally and how does that work?
Hey CalvBore, it's not a dumb question at all. There's a lot to Klipper and having an ADXL345 Accelerometer isn't a necessity, but it's a useful thing to have for accurately calibrating input shaper. I never even bothered with one on my Ender 3 Pro and it still prints at significantly higher speeds and with better quality than I was able to get with Marlin. I plan on uploading a video this weekend of going over some features of Klipper, including input shaper with this specific printer as well.
@@FoulNews Thanks for the quick response, looking forward to that video! If you do decide to install the accelerometer on a machine, would love to see a video of that too!
@@FoulNews thanks for the reply, The printer connects successfully to Klipper I can Home normally, but when I try to bed mesh calibrate, the probe self test at the center then when it moves to the first corner it probes but gets this error and stops.
@@giovannizo Is the probe deploying at all and hitting the bed on the first probe point or just not moving at all when it gets to the corner. Sometimes the bed may be physically too high, which will interrupt the mesh calibration. If that's the case, you will have to manually set the Z-offset first using PROBE_CALIBRATE in the command line. Then SAVE_CONFIG once you do the paper test etc... if it isn't deploying at all, try reducing the number of probe points in the [bed_mesh] section next to probe count. Try 3,3 first and see what happens. If it's still failing, look under the BL touch portion of the printer.cfg and try swapping around "pin_up_reports_not_triggered: True" change it to False if it's set to true or vice versa. Do the same with "pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False." You may have to play around with a few combos of that if it's failing still. Another thing to play around with is "stow_on_each_sample: true" that may fix it as well. Unfortunately not all CR Touches are created equally and some don't play nice with the default config file for some reason. Hopefully one of those fixes gets you up and running!
No, you'd need to install a Klipper compatible screen. However most folks on Klipper just use the web interface from their computer, phone or tablet. You won't miss the screen once you use the web interface.
There's a few things that can cause that issue. 1. The Raspberry Pi isn't connected to the printer mainboard all the way. Reseat the USB connection and reboot the printer and Pi. 2. The device ID is incorrect in printer.cfg and will need to be corrected. 3. The wrong firmware was flashed to the printer's mainboard. Make sure that you flash the firmware intended for your mainboard version. You can always create another copy by using putty and going back to cd ~/klipper/ then issuing make menuconfig. Just make sure that the processor on the board matches the configuration that you make when creating the firmware bin file in this step.
Im having troubles with the exact same printer Followed all the steps up till the pi connection to the printer where i just keep getting MCU not connected, the dev/serial/by-id or path also just says "no such file found" Any solutions to these? I have made sure the usb cable is for data
You can just modify any Ender series config file to suit the V3 SE's setup. Just make sure the config is set correctly for the Sprite extruder. There's config settings out there for the Sprite.
Is it posible to test a board with only power to the usb-c connector? I did test it with Raspberry Pi 4B8Gb on a BTT Octopus Pro about 10 times. Everytime i get message "MCU 'mcu' shutdown: ADC out of range". Klipper does see that there is something wrong with min_temp / max_temp but i don't have not connected sensors to the board. I also disabled all temp-sensors in the printer.cfg file. So how do i get rid of this message without anything connected? I did see tutorials with klipper installs with nothing exept usb-c power connected working perfectly. The only thing that's different is that i have a 10" touchscreen (made for Raspberry Pi) attatched on the Raspberry Pi. When you put [include mainsail.cfg] in to your printer.cfg file you get the complete menu & settings. When i do that i get nothing, only the same errors. When logging in with the ip-adress i only get orange errors. Can someone help me? That would be nice. Thank you
Without setting definitions for your own thermistors, I don't believe you can test without the thermistors plugged in. You can always just plug the thermistors into the board without routing the wires through your printer etc... and just let them read ambient temperature, that should get rid of the warnings. If you want to test your extruder, you'll need to define the min_temp for the extruder to be less than the ambient temperature as well. Under the "Machine" tab, check to see if the file mainsail.cfg exists. If for some reason the file does not exist, you can create the file using the configuration from Mainsail over here: github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config/blob/master/client.cfg As for the IP address error, that may have something to do with firewall settings, router settings, browser settings etc... I'd recommend setting a DHCP reservation on your router for your printer so that the IP never changes.
do you have any idea if that screen is supported by klipper in anyway? im converting an ender 3 max neo, same screen, and feel like theres got to be a way to get klipperscreen onto it but havent found much luck
well now lets see if i can adjust these steps to work with a monster8 board running a 2000 x 1000 x 1000 printer running with sensorless homing. more accurately i'm going to spend the next few hours going through documentation on both klipper and the main board in hopes of getting the printer working. guide is great. just my idiot self that decided to build the most ridiculous printer possible for a personal project of mine and move off marlin while doing it
Can't access mainsail after installing it on the sd and inserting into the pi. The green led does flash while the red led light is solid. I have it connected via USB for over 30 min and can't load mainsail.
The process is pretty much the exact same. You'll just need to verify which board version you have so you can make the correct Klipper firmware for it and you'll also want to make sure to use the correct Printer.cfg file as well.
Great video thank you very much! I might be extremely tired but I spent a long time figuring out that I had to select the STM32 microcontroller on the Klipper Firmware Configuration menu. Mine only had two options and it didn't look anything like yours. It took me a second to put 2 and 2 together, but again it might be because I'm extremely tired. It's christmas day and I'm recovering from covid.
Yes, but you'll need to make sure to use the correct printer.cfg file for the S1, as well as making sure that you create the correct Klipper.bin file for the S1's mainboard.
This just happened to me but I was putting the (name.local) name on instead of the (usarename:) that is the one its asking, I put that info. and it worked like a charm Hope this helps
Ugh, don't be like me and forget about the bltouch which isn't mentioned in this video and doesn't work on the ender 3 v2 just by doing it this way. Now I have to recalculate all my offsets and z offset because I forgot to write them down.
Klipper installation went smooth! Really good guide. Got an issue using the "Calibrate" function on the heightmap section, error says " No trigger on probe after full movement" anyone had this issue before?
th-cam.com/video/_8r87gBFOy8/w-d-xo.html Well im stuck in this step to make the bin file for my printer, as I put the command on Putty ( cd~/klipper) seen in (10:21min on the video) with the reply saying (No such file or directory) Thank you for any help. Ender 3 Max Neo
Octoprint is a web interface and so is Mainsail. Klipper is firmware that lives on the 3D printer's mainboard. You could have Klipper firmware and Octoprint, Mainsail, Fluidd, etc... as the interface that lives on the Pi or any other suitable mcu.
Sooo you pay a bunch of money do an extremely dangerous hack that only a programmer developer has any business doing and you lose functionality of your screen? Did I miss anything? So you’re paying money to lose a screen and possibly break your motherboard if you do it wrong.
You can install Klipper for under $40 these days. A dangerous hack? It's literally just changing firmware to a much more capable firmware and interface. If you really need a screen, you can use Klipper Screen or convert the stock screen to work with Klipper.
I say a dangerous hack because if you mess up the firmware you break your motherboard. I did that upgrading a reality Ender three V2 neo motherboard because the instructions from Corey reality are incorrect and tell you to use multiple files when updating the screen. They also tell you to flash the motherboard and then the screen, and then they reference a TH-cam video that tells you to flash the screen and then the motherboard, you get that wrong and your motherboard is dead and you have to buy a new one. As far as flashing firmware, they give you multiple files and I discovered in reality you only use one file not more to successfully do it. So it cost me a motherboard. And yes, losing the functionality of your screen is ridiculous. How else are you going to control your Z offset, nozzle temperature, increase your decrease the speed, start stop or pause the print? If you don’t have a screen, that’s ridiculous. So yeah that’s completely outdated hack and using the sonic pad at least gives you a screen. I’m sure you have an answer for how to print but if you can’t control it with the screen, you can’t pause you can’t you can’t stop other than just shutting the power off to the machine if it has a failed print. You’re literally downgrading your machine for clipper in this case
@@AlexDiamonds there's a comprehensive web interface that you can access from any computer or phone on your network. That's how you adjust things and monitor prints without a screen. Klipper is far more advanced than Marlin and doing the conversion incorrectly doesn't brick your mainboard. Again, you can use a Klipper screen compatible screen or convert the factory screen if you really need one.
Followed to a T ... Although i'm using the Ender 3 V2. Can't get my Board to connect. I get "Moonraker can't connect to Klipper! Please check if the Klipper service is running and klippy_uds_address is correctly configured in the moonraker.conf." To which i'm not sure what to do next.
man, that was amazing! I’m a complete lame in these matters, but I did everything you said and it worked out for me. my Ender3v3se works great! Subscribe+like!!! I'm waiting for new videos. you are so cool. thanks a lot!!!
Thank you - great video and excellent tutorial! However, I cannot seem to get past this message: "Printer is not ready The klippy host software is attempting to connect. Please retry in a few moments." I've searched for this error message and cannot seem to find a solution. I have flashed the machine many times and the result is the same. ...and the pi is connected to the Ender3V2Neo with the USB cable - I have tried several different cables to make sure it wasn't a cable issue.
Thanks for the feedback! It sounds like klipper is unable to see the mainboard of your printer. This can happen due to a serial ID not being correct, or missing. Try these steps: 1. Go into mainsail and locate the [mcu] section. In there see what is listed for the field "Serial:" If nothing is in that field, put this in there: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 Then save the file and do a firmware restart. If that doesn't fix it, go to step 2. 2. Connect to your host via Putty. Log into your host (Raspberry Pi, or other controller) and then type: ls /dev/serial/by-id hit enter and see what comes up. If nothing comes up, then there's an issue with the USB connection physically or an issue with one of the board's USB controllers. If an address comes up, copy that address and paste it into the "Serial:" field under [mcu] in your printer.cfg file. Usually doing one or the other fixes the issue.
@@FoulNews Thanks for the reply - I followed your suggestions and the results were the same. I confirmed this by powering down the printer, plugging in the Creality display and powering the unit on - just a stock setup. Turned out to be a bad micro SD card and the firmware was never flashing to the mainboard. So I formatted a different micro SD card, loaded the bin file and it worked! Thank you for the reply - your channel is excellent!
Thanks a ton man this is basically the exact process for the Ender 3 S1 if anyone else has one, just go to that file on gihub instead of the 3v2 shown here :)
If I could only watch one video, it would be this!
THANK YOU FROM BRAZIL!
I have an Ender 3 V2, and it works perfectly!
Took 2 days due to a crappy USB cable. Worked perfectly though, Amazing video!
Glad to hear it worked out for you! It's always difficult to troubleshoot a bad USB cable, but they do seem to fail rather often.
Love it, man! You made it plain and simple without spending hours on it! Thanks!
Excellent guide, thanks. Had watched others but couldnt get firmware to load. After watching this video I used a freshly formatted SD card and also disconnected the Ender3 screen. One or both of those did the trick. Success!
Glad to hear it was helpful for you!
Best Klipper install guide I've found, thanks! I had to make sure my SD card was formatted correctly, ended up using the Raspberry Pi image tool to format it. Also took 2-3 tries for the flash to take, not sure why. But, working now.
I'm glad you found the video helpful! It's odd, but yes, sometimes the imager can take a few tries to work properly.
Thank you so much for this video, I did every step and it worked for my Ender 3v2 32-bit 4.2.2 board.
Glad to hear!
Fantastic tutorial. Lays everything out nice and clearly. Only one small note to users wishing to replicate this, the raspberry pi imager ui has slightly changed. All the same options are there under the same name, they are just in a different location. If you have stock hardware this is the best guide I've seen. If you have modified hardware this tutorial is still amazing, the one thing to keep in mind is you will need to tweak your printer.cfg file, but the documentation for your parts should include most if not all of the values you need to tweak.
You're the man!! This was super helpful. only issue i ran into was trying to fat32 a 64gb card (I am a noob)
Glad to hear you found it useful!
Thank you so much I got Klipper onto my Ender 3 pro this is the best step by step for Klipper all the other ones were very hard to follow
I'm glad to hear that the install worked well for you!
Worked! Two head-bangers; make menuconfig was not showing the screen you had, it only had amega, google found the answer: spacebar. The Raspberry PI was not showing up: Damn USB micro to A power only cords! I'm going to go watch your Zero 2W next, at $15 a pop and they can run off the systems power that will be a tronxy and hictop upgrade next, I mentioned Zero 2W to a Creality user and got the lecture about hardware Klipper supports along with links and tisk-tisk sounds. Subscribed and Liked, good sound, good light and well paced.
Just found this video and adapted to the non neo version ("adapted" :D)
have to say: very nice video. Structured so well and explained in a good speed, volume. Really easy listening to you and doing all this stuff on the second monitor. cheers
Thank you for the feedback! Glad to hear you were able to get it going well for your non-neo!
OMG, this worked so perfectly, cant thank you enough. Straight to the point, so easy, I tried numerous other videos and this by far was 100% the best, GREAT JOB!!
Glad to hear that you found it useful!
I have flashed my Ender 3 v2 Neo Thanks Man! Only had a issue with the USB but when I changed the Port it magically worked! Really Helpfull Video! 👍
Glad to hear it worked out for you!
@@FoulNews hi man, could you make videos about Klipper bed mesh levelling with Crtouch and input shaper tutorials with ADXL345 sensor?
@@the-matrix-has-you Yes, I should have a follow-up video for this soon. Aiming to have it done this weekend if time allows.
Great video, wonderful guide 👍 Is there any advantage running Klipper on a Pi 4 /4GB of RAM as opposed to a Pi3B+ (1GB RAM)? Will a Pi 3B+ run as smoothly as a Pi4 4GB RAM and create the same quality prints? Thank you :-))
Thanks! There's no real advantage unless you want to make multiple instances of Klipper run off of 1 Pi, even then a 3B+ would be just fine. Klipper doesn't take up a lot of resources at all, so you should be more than good with your set-up.
@@FoulNews Great. Thank you for the clarification. This is important to know given the cost of the Pi's nowadays.
These instructions are as good and complete as they get. Great job!
Thanks!
this is a greta guide. if you wanted to make it better, make people use mobaxterm instead of putty, that way they are allready connected and can browse the folder structure when they connect to ssh, and dont need to FTP inn in a different session.
Thank you so much! I was struggling for the past 2 days to make Klipper work from an old laptop, and this tutorial work's so well for me.
Thank you so much for this tutorial, after a lot of troubleshooting this was the perfect guide
Thank you so much - 2 month ago I though that I never would having klipper. Everyone told me that it is so difficult to install klipper and use it.
Today I followed your video and I had some problems - first my putty would not make same as yours - butit came, it was my ip adress. Then it was difficult to have the FTP server installed at windows 10 - but I got it and then it was fast - everything do now as your video.
One thing you should link up to is - now for beginners - how to use your printer now, where do you control it and put in files for printing?
Glad to hear that the video was helpful and that you're up and running on Klipper! Yes, one of my next vids will be covering what are some helpful things to do after you've converted to Klipper. Hoping to get it out by this coming Wednesday!
Thanks this helped quite a bit! What Slicer do I use now though?
You can still use any slicer that you normally use. If you use Cura, Prusa Slicer or Super Slicer, they can all connect to Moonraker to upload directly to your printer. You can also still save your sliced g-code to your computer and then upload the g-code file right into Mainsail as well.
Thanks for the video! I have a quick question. After I installed Klipper, do I need to setup input shaping? It seems my printer now is printing at fast speeds and is a bit louder. It's weird because the settings on the Klipper gui was the same as yours. Let me know your thoughts, and I apologize for my lack of knowledge as i am new to Klipper!
Input shaping isn't necessarily required, but will help with quality, especially at higher speeds. Klipper by default increases the printing speed by a bit, so it's normal for your printer to be working a bit more quickly even on default settings.
Hello! Thanks for the video! Could you help me, because I've been trying for 2 days and my raspberry pi 4 can't connect to wifi. I've tried with the latest mainsailos, I've tried with older ones, but the result is always that it doesn't connect to wifi. What can I do wrong? I do everything as I saw in your video. Maybe you can think of something. Thanks for the answer !
Did you get a solution?
Nice video! I have the Ender 4v2 Neo Max today with MriscoC Firmware and its working so good! However, is it possible touse your guideance in the video and install Klipper like this and have it to work properly without issues? Any concerns?
this how-to simply works ... Thanks !
Glad to hear it works for you!
How did you get rid of ".local refused to to connect?". I saw that error also in your video! Thank you for your cool videos
This was great. I had klipper on my ender3 with a BTT SKT mini v3 board over a year ago then there was some update that crashed everything then I just took a year+ break from using that printer and just used my other stock Ender3 v2.
Thank you for your guidance on setting up Klipper. It has made the installation process much easier for me. However, I am currently experiencing issues with my old Start G-code that I used with Cura before. It's showing some 'Unknown command' errors. I suspect it's because Klipper uses a different Start G-code system compared to the original Ender system.
Could you please provide me with your G-code start configuration for Klipper?
Once again, thank you very much for the setup guidance.
Great video, followed it as you did on screen. Only problem I have is i can't connect to it after installing mainsail on the pie, just keeps saying the site cant be reached. Redid the image like 4 times and still doesn't work. Any suggestions?
Hey dude
Im using a Creality 3 Neo Max and im wondering if I can take the same config?
because this looks the same just more build volume with the max
You should be able to use it, but just make sure you set the correct safe points in the bed mesh section of the printer.cfg as well as safe homing etc...
Great video. Can I use a raspberry pi 2 instead of the raspberry 4?
Yes, but the network config will be different since you'll need to use an Ethernet connection instead of Wi-Fi.
will I have to do anything extra to get this working on an ender 3 max neo?
Yes, you'll either need to find and use the correct Printer.config file for it or modify the V2 Neo's printer.config file to match the bed size, thermistor, rotation distance etc... also make sure that the max 3 neo uses the same mainboard.
Great guide for the install. However it took me a while to get the config for my Regular Ender 3 with a sprite pro and crtouch.
would it be easy just to buy a sonic pad?
Do you think this same process will work for a laptop if I put it in one
Fantastic walkthrough, thank you!
Thank you for the feedback!
Thanks a lot. I encountered so many problems but finally got it. Not sure what was the final sauce to get it to work. But it's working.
Glad to hear it's working for you now!
Was stuck at the last step, MCU didn't show up on System Loads.. (putty was fine) Formated SD Card and flashed firmware again. Now its working! Using the ENDER 3v2. Thanks a lot man!
Do you have a video for the CR5 and the install of Klipper?
Can this be applied to ender3 S1 plus models?
Does this work on regular ender 3v2?
Yes, just make sure to either use the config file for that printer or modify the one used here.
@@FoulNews I picked a different firmware thanks tho, didn’t wanna get a pi
for some reason I can't find the klipper.bin file... any ideas?
You may need to do the makefile command again or double check the directory that Klipper.bin should be in.
Can you also still use the screen with it?
So I just got a raspberry pi 3 b and everything with it for like $25 but the ram is only 1gb will this still work just fine?
Yes, the Pi 3b will work just fine for Klipper and Mainsail.
Does anyone know the changes to the printer.cfg file to use with an Ender V2 Max Neo?
I need them too
hi i have an erreur on the BED_MESH_CALIBRATE it show No trigger on probe after full movement coulde it be the config of bltouch is not the same of cr touch
Best Video, helped me alot for ender3v2, thank you!!!!!🎉❤
Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear it was helpful for you!
Does the original display not work with this firmware? I was just wondering as my screen has gone dark after installing everything. Besides that, everything works GREAT!
That is correct. You would either need to do some more configurations or use compatible Klipper Screen hardware. If you want to use the factory screen, follow this guide: www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/s/uVGJNFKlDz
I have followed every step and somehow ran into an issue that I haven't been able to google... on my Klipper Firmware Configuration menu the communication interface and bootloader options are not listed at all.
You have to change the microController architecture to STM32
I wonder if this tutorial works for the MKS Skipr board also.
@@viniciusgoncalvesdeoliveir440 the Skipr is an AIO board, so no need for the Raspberry Pi. The setup is actually easier for that board.
@ really? Sorry I am very newbie with this things. Did you have a video that can help me? I know nothing about
@viniciusgoncalvesdeoliveir440 No worries at all! There's so many different options changing every single month, so it's definitely difficult to keep up with. I don't have a video for those yet, but 3DNero probably does.
I just tried to print something, the nozzle is 1/8" above the bed as it extrudes, the left edge 'warm-up' line is on the edge of the bed. I tried to find where to tell klipper to reset Z 0 but can't find anything, I 'adjusted' the bed up to the point the springs are almost loose to get 'up' to the nozzle but I really need a means to drop the head down.
soooo... do i need to keep raspberry plugged in ender? or will ender work just by itself as on marlin? what about the screen? is it needed? does it work? i have ender 3 neo. non V2 with all screen.
Great guide!!!! Can you make for cr-5 pro h pls ? and if i use on my cr-5 pro h will my light function be disabled ?
Thanks! I wouldn't waste time using the stock mainboard on the CR-5 pro h with Klipper as most people seem to have issues with it. The better alternative would be using Klipper with an SKR Mini E3 or similar as those boards have much better features and are significantly more reliable. I went through 2 CR-5 Pro H mainboards on mine before I gave up and switched. The light will be disabled, unless you use a Raspberry Pi or similar microcontroller hooked up to a relay board. From there you can configure the Pi in Putty to activate one of the GPIO pins to trigger the relay with a command in Klipper. Since I used the Orange Pi Zero 2 on mine, I wasn't able to get the GPIO pins to function, so I just made a simple physical switch mounted to the outside of the printer to turn the light on and off. If I get some time, I'll do an overview on the setup.
thank you very much for your response and informing me, I'm waiting for the continuation of your videos@@FoulNews
@@ulas9561 Thanks, hoping to get some new content out soon! Just catching up with the final orders of my Black Friday and Cyber Monday sale. After the orders are all shipped out, I should have time to make some new vids.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but I'm just starting to look into klipper for my machine, but what's the deal with accelerometers? Do I need to install one additionally and how does that work?
Hey CalvBore, it's not a dumb question at all. There's a lot to Klipper and having an ADXL345 Accelerometer isn't a necessity, but it's a useful thing to have for accurately calibrating input shaper. I never even bothered with one on my Ender 3 Pro and it still prints at significantly higher speeds and with better quality than I was able to get with Marlin. I plan on uploading a video this weekend of going over some features of Klipper, including input shaper with this specific printer as well.
@@FoulNews Thanks for the quick response, looking forward to that video! If you do decide to install the accelerometer on a machine, would love to see a video of that too!
Mmmmmmmm now we're talking. Hoss time with da Hossman himself
THAMNKS HOSS CAMNT WATE TO SEA MOAR OFF UR TIE LAND ADVENCHURS ON YER CHAMNEL
I have a raspberry pi 3 and a ender 3 V2 neo. I want to try Klipper, but if I don't like it, can I return to the original firmware?
@@sergiolgodoy Yes, you would just need to flash back to the EV2 version of Marlin that you're already on.
Hi, don't you know why you get: "No trigger on probe after full movement" when you try to calibrate bed mesh?
I Have exactly the same printer
When you restart the printer, does the probe do a self-test by going down and coming back up?
@@FoulNews thanks for the reply, The printer connects successfully to Klipper I can Home normally, but when I try to bed mesh calibrate, the probe self test at the center then when it moves to the first corner it probes but gets this error and stops.
@@giovannizo Is the probe deploying at all and hitting the bed on the first probe point or just not moving at all when it gets to the corner. Sometimes the bed may be physically too high, which will interrupt the mesh calibration. If that's the case, you will have to manually set the Z-offset first using PROBE_CALIBRATE in the command line. Then SAVE_CONFIG once you do the paper test etc... if it isn't deploying at all, try reducing the number of probe points in the [bed_mesh] section next to probe count. Try 3,3 first and see what happens. If it's still failing, look under the BL touch portion of the printer.cfg and try swapping around "pin_up_reports_not_triggered: True" change it to False if it's set to true or vice versa. Do the same with "pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False." You may have to play around with a few combos of that if it's failing still. Another thing to play around with is "stow_on_each_sample: true" that may fix it as well. Unfortunately not all CR Touches are created equally and some don't play nice with the default config file for some reason. Hopefully one of those fixes gets you up and running!
What about the display? Does it worked?
No, you'd need to install a Klipper compatible screen. However most folks on Klipper just use the web interface from their computer, phone or tablet. You won't miss the screen once you use the web interface.
@@FoulNews I see. Thank you!
i've got a problem that written "printer is not ready", did you have any solution for this problem?
There's a few things that can cause that issue.
1. The Raspberry Pi isn't connected to the printer mainboard all the way. Reseat the USB connection and reboot the printer and Pi.
2. The device ID is incorrect in printer.cfg and will need to be corrected.
3. The wrong firmware was flashed to the printer's mainboard. Make sure that you flash the firmware intended for your mainboard version. You can always create another copy by using putty and going back to cd ~/klipper/ then issuing make menuconfig. Just make sure that the processor on the board matches the configuration that you make when creating the firmware bin file in this step.
Im having troubles with the exact same printer
Followed all the steps up till the pi connection to the printer where i just keep getting MCU not connected, the dev/serial/by-id or path also just says "no such file found"
Any solutions to these? I have made sure the usb cable is for data
Are you using the exact same USB port on the Pi as when you first connected the Pi to the printer?
There are neither Marlin nor Klipper config files out for the Ender 3 V3 SE. How long does it usually take? Been 3 months since release.
You can just modify any Ender series config file to suit the V3 SE's setup. Just make sure the config is set correctly for the Sprite extruder. There's config settings out there for the Sprite.
Is it posible to test a board with only power to the usb-c connector?
I did test it with Raspberry Pi 4B8Gb on a BTT Octopus Pro about 10 times.
Everytime i get message "MCU 'mcu' shutdown: ADC out of range".
Klipper does see that there is something wrong with min_temp / max_temp but i don't have not connected sensors to the board.
I also disabled all temp-sensors in the printer.cfg file.
So how do i get rid of this message without anything connected?
I did see tutorials with klipper installs with nothing exept usb-c power connected working perfectly. The only thing that's different is that i have a 10" touchscreen (made for Raspberry Pi) attatched on the Raspberry Pi.
When you put [include mainsail.cfg] in to your printer.cfg file you get the complete menu & settings. When i do that i get nothing, only the same errors.
When logging in with the ip-adress i only get orange errors.
Can someone help me? That would be nice.
Thank you
Without setting definitions for your own thermistors, I don't believe you can test without the thermistors plugged in. You can always just plug the thermistors into the board without routing the wires through your printer etc... and just let them read ambient temperature, that should get rid of the warnings. If you want to test your extruder, you'll need to define the min_temp for the extruder to be less than the ambient temperature as well.
Under the "Machine" tab, check to see if the file mainsail.cfg exists. If for some reason the file does not exist, you can create the file using the configuration from Mainsail over here: github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config/blob/master/client.cfg
As for the IP address error, that may have something to do with firewall settings, router settings, browser settings etc... I'd recommend setting a DHCP reservation on your router for your printer so that the IP never changes.
Hi, i use octoprint from 2019 and i want to try clipper. Can i set the usb camera for timelapse?
Mainsail and Fluid have settings for USB cameras as well as timelapse video.
th-cam.com/video/TyCTyk-Bq7k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WsLwKj_hiC_6DKyq
do you have any idea if that screen is supported by klipper in anyway? im converting an ender 3 max neo, same screen, and feel like theres got to be a way to get klipperscreen onto it but havent found much luck
Yes, it's possible, but requires a bit of work: github.com/odwdinc/DWIN_T5UIC1_LCD
@@FoulNews THANK YOU!
cannot find klipper.bin file in klipper/
well now lets see if i can adjust these steps to work with a monster8 board running a 2000 x 1000 x 1000 printer running with sensorless homing. more accurately i'm going to spend the next few hours going through documentation on both klipper and the main board in hopes of getting the printer working.
guide is great. just my idiot self that decided to build the most ridiculous printer possible for a personal project of mine and move off marlin while doing it
Can't access mainsail after installing it on the sd and inserting into the pi. The green led does flash while the red led light is solid. I have it connected via USB for over 30 min and can't load mainsail.
Can you ping the IP or hostname that you assigned to the Pi?
@@FoulNews no it won’t let me either
can i follow the same process for an ender 2 pro?😅
The process is pretty much the exact same. You'll just need to verify which board version you have so you can make the correct Klipper firmware for it and you'll also want to make sure to use the correct Printer.cfg file as well.
Great video thank you very much!
I might be extremely tired but I spent a long time figuring out that I had to select the STM32 microcontroller on the Klipper Firmware Configuration menu. Mine only had two options and it didn't look anything like yours. It took me a second to put 2 and 2 together, but again it might be because I'm extremely tired. It's christmas day and I'm recovering from covid.
does it work on ender3 s1?
Yes, but you'll need to make sure to use the correct printer.cfg file for the S1, as well as making sure that you create the correct Klipper.bin file for the S1's mainboard.
argh, chapters man, chapters! I've already got a raspberry pi setup with octoprint.
should have done heat sinks from smallest to biggest :D
Thank you
I didn't get a bin file. I feel like I am doing something wrong
Trying to access the Pi via Putty and receive Access Denied after entering my password. Any thoughts on why this is happening?
This just happened to me but I was putting the (name.local) name on instead of the (usarename:) that is the one its asking, I put that info. and it worked like a charm
Hope this helps
Ugh, don't be like me and forget about the bltouch which isn't mentioned in this video and doesn't work on the ender 3 v2 just by doing it this way. Now I have to recalculate all my offsets and z offset because I forgot to write them down.
Klipper installation went smooth! Really good guide. Got an issue using the "Calibrate" function on the heightmap section, error says " No trigger on probe after full movement" anyone had this issue before?
thx m8
Did this for the SKR GTR, it's not connecting to the MCU
Usually that's due to either a physical connection not being completed or the wrong bootloader used for your board when creating the flash file.
@@FoulNews Solved, wrong mcu in printer.cfg, this works:
[mcu]
restart_method: command
serial: /dev/ttyAMA0
baud: 250000
th-cam.com/video/_8r87gBFOy8/w-d-xo.html
Well im stuck in this step to make the bin file for my printer, as I put the command on Putty ( cd~/klipper) seen in (10:21min on the video) with the reply saying (No such file or directory)
Thank you for any help.
Ender 3 Max Neo
......... I just found out im dumb . . . it is written with a space false alarm people (cd ~/klipper
I still prefer octoprint, it's easier and doesn't require any changes to the printer, klipper hasn't yet shown enough of an advantage for this change
You got be kidding me. Klipper has pressure advance, resonance compensation, and so much more
This is a guy who has no idea what Klipper is obviously.
Don't you add klipper over the octoprint module ?
Octoprint is a web interface and so is Mainsail. Klipper is firmware that lives on the 3D printer's mainboard. You could have Klipper firmware and Octoprint, Mainsail, Fluidd, etc... as the interface that lives on the Pi or any other suitable mcu.
Sooo you pay a bunch of money do an extremely dangerous hack that only a programmer developer has any business doing and you lose functionality of your screen? Did I miss anything?
So you’re paying money to lose a screen and possibly break your motherboard if you do it wrong.
You can install Klipper for under $40 these days. A dangerous hack? It's literally just changing firmware to a much more capable firmware and interface. If you really need a screen, you can use Klipper Screen or convert the stock screen to work with Klipper.
I say a dangerous hack because if you mess up the firmware you break your motherboard. I did that upgrading a reality Ender three V2 neo motherboard because the instructions from Corey reality are incorrect and tell you to use multiple files when updating the screen.
They also tell you to flash the motherboard and then the screen, and then they reference a TH-cam video that tells you to flash the screen and then the motherboard, you get that wrong and your motherboard is dead and you have to buy a new one.
As far as flashing firmware, they give you multiple files and I discovered in reality you only use one file not more to successfully do it.
So it cost me a motherboard. And yes, losing the functionality of your screen is ridiculous. How else are you going to control your Z offset, nozzle temperature, increase your decrease the speed, start stop or pause the print? If you don’t have a screen, that’s ridiculous. So yeah that’s completely outdated hack and using the sonic pad at least gives you a screen.
I’m sure you have an answer for how to print but if you can’t control it with the screen, you can’t pause you can’t you can’t stop other than just shutting the power off to the machine if it has a failed print. You’re literally downgrading your machine for clipper in this case
@@AlexDiamonds there's a comprehensive web interface that you can access from any computer or phone on your network. That's how you adjust things and monitor prints without a screen. Klipper is far more advanced than Marlin and doing the conversion incorrectly doesn't brick your mainboard. Again, you can use a Klipper screen compatible screen or convert the factory screen if you really need one.
Followed to a T ... Although i'm using the Ender 3 V2. Can't get my Board to connect. I get "Moonraker can't connect to Klipper!
Please check if the Klipper service is running and klippy_uds_address is correctly configured in the moonraker.conf." To which i'm not sure what to do next.
man, that was amazing! I’m a complete lame in these matters, but I did everything you said and it worked out for me. my Ender3v3se works great! Subscribe+like!!! I'm waiting for new videos. you are so cool. thanks a lot!!!
CoreFTP, it's an easy FTP file manager.
Thank you - great video and excellent tutorial! However, I cannot seem to get past this message: "Printer is not ready The klippy host software is attempting to connect. Please retry in a few moments." I've searched for this error message and cannot seem to find a solution. I have flashed the machine many times and the result is the same. ...and the pi is connected to the Ender3V2Neo with the USB cable - I have tried several different cables to make sure it wasn't a cable issue.
Thanks for the feedback! It sounds like klipper is unable to see the mainboard of your printer. This can happen due to a serial ID not being correct, or missing. Try these steps:
1. Go into mainsail and locate the [mcu] section. In there see what is listed for the field "Serial:"
If nothing is in that field, put this in there:
/dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
Then save the file and do a firmware restart. If that doesn't fix it, go to step 2.
2. Connect to your host via Putty. Log into your host (Raspberry Pi, or other controller) and then type: ls /dev/serial/by-id
hit enter and see what comes up. If nothing comes up, then there's an issue with the USB connection physically or an issue with one of the board's USB controllers. If an address comes up, copy that address and paste it into the "Serial:" field under [mcu] in your printer.cfg file.
Usually doing one or the other fixes the issue.
@@FoulNews Thanks for the reply - I followed your suggestions and the results were the same. I confirmed this by powering down the printer, plugging in the Creality display and powering the unit on - just a stock setup. Turned out to be a bad micro SD card and the firmware was never flashing to the mainboard. So I formatted a different micro SD card, loaded the bin file and it worked! Thank you for the reply - your channel is excellent!
@@GregWitt Ah, one of those rare situations! I'm glad to hear you got it all figured out!