YOU MUST DO THIS MOD - Logitech G305 Weight Reduction
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Making a Logitech G305 Weight Reduction using 3d Print Shell Parts and LR44 battery Mod and DPI conversion. Check out Noted's Custom UL2 I've Made @ • Noted Mouse is a Custo...
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→ Logitech G305 LR44 Battery Mod @ www.thingiverse.com/thing:460...
►Timestamps
00:00 - Intro
00:25 - Parts
00:42 - G305 Teardown
01:50 - Base and Rear panel weight
02:14 - Battery holder weight
02:19 - Reassemble
03:07 - 3d base and PCB view
03:12 - LR44 battery mod
04:29 - LR44 view
04:54 - Reassemble
05:44 - weight and look
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→ Gaming Mouse Weight Reduction Mods @ bit.ly/332QH8h
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I can't believe my lr44 bracket Design made it into one of your videos.
This was my first ever 3d model design and i know it's not perfect, but seeing this made my day!
Btw: i later found out that there are PR44 cells, that are the same form factor but higher capacity. They are usually marketed as "hearing aid batteries"
its a good bracket and why I used it. On your first go you nailed it works a treat as you can see. 👌
Glad to see you living the content also 👍 good to know the PR44 works also in there, will take a look.
How long last the lr44 batteries on the mouse? And what about the PR44 cells?
@@oscarcorrea1453 buy a675, 1-2 weeks each
and i thought the tinfoil AAA battery mod was light, this man took it to the g pro x superlight level
Sure is... if you trim out the internal skeleton like I did here then you can get it lighter still. www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/movfei/stock_look_but_under_the_bonnet_things_have/?context=3
@@Beardedbob its amazing how much unnecessary weight there are on some mice
the g pro x superlight is still lighter after honeycombing. Wow, no matter how overpriced, logitech did a good job with the superlight.
With some work you can get that G pro superlight below 50g th-cam.com/video/Sr1tpejHCgQ/w-d-xo.html
However, not everyone likes the shape of the GPW/GPX Superlight. Sometimes, considering a cheaper option over the "flagship" is better. It just sucks ass that there's no lightweight G305 yet, or if there even was in the first place.
Would it be possible to print the shell with the walls thicker of 1mm and then sand it down for a smoother texture?
I printed the base shell and swapped the pcb but now wheel button is really stiff to click , hoping you could help me . Great video!
i love this shape and b100 shape as well, its perfect, what mice we have today with these shapes?? i looked up for the zaopin z1 pro but it seems to be smaller...
Is it a good idea to print the parts with ABS plastic? Will this be good for less deformation and more durability over time?
I am really fine with the way it comes in the box. I just changed the legs with superglide and its really fun to use it now.
Try AAA mod 👍
Hey. which connector is used for the battery I don't want to splice into the original one since I would like to give the old battery thing to my friend for his mouse. he broke one of the springs. so if I can know the connector I can make use of how to do it
accidently cut the power cable too short. What should i use if i wanted to make my own connector that went to the battery?
thank goodness this man only had thingyverse files instead of cults or smthing
What is this black pen looking thing used for?
You might want to check ur sensor height. because it does mess with DPI and LOD no matter how you look at it. You can do all the mods you want but if you mess with your sensitivity, you’re throwing your “competitive edge” out the window. If you do have the base perfected, it would be something I would consider buying. But I have yet to find a someone who offers a custom bottom with the correct sensor height positioning.
Been done for months, did you have some issues with yours? If so what mouse pad?
@@Beardedbob thats fair. mousepad is tiger esports eba. but you need to make sure sensor height is at the specs of the sensor or else it will track differently on terms of dpi. i am wanting to mod the bottom shell of mine but know this is a factor. so will probably just be doing a cover and lr44 battery mod. im scared to mess with sensor height.
@@GIFTOFGVME If the base is not working for you, add some layers of double sided tape on the skates the side that glues onto the mouse, sand down the base, or revert the mod. Nothing to be scared of!
Yep the HERO sensor is extremely sensitive to things like height as is. I wouldn't do the mod on something like this. Much better with something like Razer which lets you adjust LOD.
Do I need the lr44 for it to work because I don’t want to mess with the wires
Can you give more information about the 3d print? the bottom and top - What printer type, material etc?
Not sure what printer, but the filament type is definitely pla.
This looks really cool, but how much does it affect the build quality? Any creaking or flex?
3d printing always give you some added flex :-p here's one with a little less flex www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/movfei/stock_look_but_under_the_bonnet_things_have/?context=3
I got one base printed and the holes some of the smaller ones are not open like you can't screw through them is that a problem
For people looking for a super budget version of the Logitech g305 (and the like) "inland" aka Microcenter's inhouse off brand in the US has a clone of the 305 that is corded, lacks the side buttons, has the RGB strip and is only $5-10 USD. "Inland M-54 RGB Esport Gaming Mouse" only 7.99 at my local shop lol. Great little chassis to start with if your looking for again a Super budget way to get into modding mice or what have you.
Any links?
I got one for my kids to drag around, and its held up great for the price. For someone afraid to tinker for the first time on their more expensive version its a great little device to not worry about breaking as you learn.
what infil did you use?
is there a version without the middle part.
another great video!
Thanks f r o g glad you liked it 👍
Hi Bob, have you ever looked at weight reducing/moddinh a pwnage ultra custom sym, as i’ve started thinking about it since the balance feels rly off which in turn leads to me slightly lifting the mouse, many thanks.
Not yet but i need to... its on the list.
@@Beardedbob definitely worth looking at, the balancing at least for me coming from an s2, feels horrible, if you end up doing it itll be a life saver for me, feels like it stops tracking sometimes because of it.
its for a several games?
great mod. wonder why this hasnt blew up yet. whats the life of that LR44 button cell?
Ikr, TH-cam hates me….
Lasts about 8 hours.. used a 675
I'm wondering what result you'd have by acetone smoothing the 3d printed shells???!!!!!
I've not tired but getting a smoother finish is always better
Can I just print out the left click cover that your finger pressed when you click? I have a hard click and all my mice breaks where they bend so just need to be able to replace the bit that breaks
There are some 3d models to print on thingiverse so sure
You got to do it on the new Orochi V2!
We will be doing as soon as it arrives... 10 days shipping from Razer so i'm looking to so it Wednesday the 12th May on www.twitch.tv/beardedbob and I'll put the edited version on YT. The date/time will be confirmed on the YT Community tab and on Twitter twitter.com/Beardedb0b
Anyone know how to fix the scroll wheel button? Its really hard to press on mine
Hey Bob did you loop the wirings through the two holes on each side? I couldn't really see on your video but I've been struggling to loop it back out
Creator of the part here.
Yes you loop it back through the second hole on the same side.
I recommend extending the original wires and stripping a good length of it, to make this easier to loop. You can then twist the to ends together to secure it and cut of excess wire.
John bossing out the help also 👍.... I used a drill to open the holes a bit as the 3d print pla was blocking it if you are having issues poling it through.
Cool stuff
Thanks apple glad you liked it 👍
Do your make your own shells or do you just print them from somewhere?
There on thingiverse free
@@Beardedbob where did you get the stl file for the mouse base? I cant find it free except for the battery cover
im confused by this. you swapped the battery and the bottom case. thats all? i swapped my AA for a lr44 and removed the top cover and im on 70g. if i then swapped the bottom case like you that should be 65g? how did you get it to 58g? im confused af here
His 3d printer filament is probley lighter that's why
How will i put my skates?
You should maybe do a g pro super light weight reduction ?
All ready done 2 :-) here they are
49g Logitech G Pro Superlight with customisation th-cam.com/video/Sr1tpejHCgQ/w-d-xo.html
50g Logitech G Pro Superlight - th-cam.com/video/j-HyZ-AXyVU/w-d-xo.html
is there any coating you would recommend for coating a 3d printed mouse?
🐭🗯️Don't use any coating,just wet and dry sandpaper to a mat finnish,nice and grippy and cool to the touch.
not tried sorry.
hi, mate! could u please measure current consumtion of this mouse? I'm tinkerin wiz dc converter to fit any of liion batteries
np will look into it.
can i use this mod on logitech g102?
Hey bob what battery u used? is it 3volts or 1.55? seen a vid that 1.55volts might not work
I've been testing 1.5v LR44 and 675 and so far haven't had issues with these not being able to power it. They are different brands which could impact it if they can't provide enough v
Would you say a absolute beginner in terms of mouse modding should attempt
Yeah this one is pretty easy and uses 3d parts
what chemical did you use to remove the skates ?
Lighter fluid
Tbh a bit to late, wireless lightweight mouses are way more common nowadays and this mod is more than 2 years old. Still fun to try and maybe for the shape people will still do it I had it and it was fine but the quality of the print will never be as good as a plastic molded one.
3d printing or resin always comes at a cost to quality for now compared to say ABS.
This justs show how good the orochi V2 it's 60 grams 65 with AAA battery and has no holes
Yep its a decent weight stock. The G305 has been out about 4 years though when weight wasn't trending. Its also half the price.
orochi is significantly smaller and has wobbly plastic cover for buttons
Beautiful
Thanks
light weight np-01 next please
Needs reviewing first 😔
do you think you can make a superlight g203/g pro
Yep should be possible
ive always been confused, do you put the wires through holes on the side of that lr44/a675 holder and put them on the walls of it?? then the battery gives out pos and neg. how do you know which way to put battery. wont the battery make bad connection. if anyone has good high quality photos of just the battery holder with wires in and with battery that would be extremely appreciated.
hole on the side of it.
@@Beardedbob thanks man!!, ive done my mod with all of these files but with a better back cover, without cover its 62g, with cover its 66g, i switch depending on game and grip stiple (ie. fps games ill fingertip, minecraft ill use cover and claw.
it would be lighter but ive put griptapes on sides and clicks.
im thinking of buying all neccesarry stuff to 3d print in carbon fibre nylon. would be cool for a mouse.
Cheers!
Hello Sir. Could you mod pwnage symmetrical/xenics gx air wireless/zet prime z for weight reduction? You are the only one who can this!!! Stock have 80+- gramm, maybe you can get 70-?)
Its possible, i'll add them to my light be atm there is a big list.
Hey Bob can you link your 3d printer?
amzn.to/3ubxSOl
What’s the cheapest printer I could get for stuff like this + materials? Never owned one before
Ender 3 or CR-6 Imo
@@Beardedbob not that bad tbh, definitely gonna think about it, seems great for small projects
Check out Voxelab. They are Ender3v2 clones, but made by FlashForge. Really good printers for the price. will get more bang for your buck and save over $100 vs ender 3v2. that means more money for filament
I assembled a shit printer for like $120 5 years ago, it's a Geeetech i3 wood-kit version. It's a lot of trouble mechanically but in a pinch it'll print something like this just fine; that being said i chose it back then for its comparatively good electrical safety, other cheap kits e.g. by Anet were nicer mechanically but entirely catastrophic in the safety department; and the only cheap ones left now are CTC kits for $100 which just aren't good in any possible regard, though if you have your wits about you, you can make any piece of junk do adequate prints.
The shittier printer you get, the more of an involved hobby it becomes, and things don't always run smoothly with nicer kit either. But one of the reasons i got mine was because it has true bootloader, firmware source published, so it's set up as a development platform from the get go, to go ahead and learn and make it into something decent.
Cheapest not entirely junk might just be Kingroon KP3 which is more in the $150 order of magnitude. Though maybe something else came along since, it's been a while.
A kilogram spool of filament runs you maybe $20, depends, nicer brands are around $30, some junk for throwaway tests might be $12. All replacement parts are about $1-$5 individually if you don't mind a lengthy disassembly/assembly process, so it never becomes particularly expensive, as long as your printer uses mostly standard parts. Except if electronics gives up, that's a little pricey unless you're good at SMD soldering. You buy a small spool of Teflon tubing to replace the lining occasionally, that's a couple bucks, and nozzles are 5 per dollar plus shipping, and you need an average of one nozzle per spool, new $10 belts after 3-5 years, occasionally a new $2 fan, new $3 heater or $1 thermistor eventually after some years, these sorts of things, nothing offensive. Cheap hobby if you want it to be cheap, or you can make expensive, your choice :D People with low fault tolerance find it frustrating and give up though, because every machine needs repair eventually, and it's often not immediately obvious what's wrong.
Hey are the kailh gm 8.0 better than the razer optical switches
Feeling yes speed doesn't look like it
@@Beardedbob alr thanks for responding now i have a decision because i want advantage ehile gaming
i use cr2016 battery they are lithium and lighter and mine last about a month way longer than heavy lr44
will take a look.
but the CR2016 are 3V, does the G305 support those 3V without damage?
@@franciscojavierc.1023 correct I've had no issues running 3 g305s on them
@@franciscojavierc.1023 A couple people ran the G305 on 4.2V without damage for at least a year at this point. At 4.5V it malfunctions though. So yeah 3V seems pretty good and safe.
It's difficult to say for certain because most of the parts are customised top secret stuff, no datasheets, not even for things as trivial as regulators. But if you want to be on the super safe side where nothing goes out of usual operating conditions with a stock battery, that would be with up to 2V.
For myself, thinking of going the charge cradle route or something like that, or maybe a charge coil, custom charge circuitry from a powerbank running like a 5V UPS. I like thing so it can top up the mouse even when everything is powered off. Something like ML2032 by Maxell in the mouse itself, that'll top off at maybe 3.2V if you start pushing it. If i find a way to scale wireless power up to pad size at like a tiny fraction of a milliamp then i don't need the UPS like thing and i don't need a battery in the mouse either, just a capacitor - i don't anticipate that i'll reach anywhere near 2.4 GHz so it shouldn't interfere with wireless communication with the mouse. I just thought of this so i might just try something soonish.
Can you do g903 wheight reduction, there is no video or concepts about g903
I'll add it to the list
Ty
are u using PLA for 3D print??
yes
I want my mouse heavy so that I can say to my wife, I am not "gaming" but working out my wrist and fingers.
yo i have a viper mini..i needed to ask something , can i break the rgb , side buttons and dpi button and will the mouse still work fine?/cus i need less wieght and i never use dpi , side buttons also fuk rgb .
The video you want and will answer your questions. Its a Razer Viper Mini Weight Reduction one. th-cam.com/video/ymWyytpua3c/w-d-xo.html
@@Beardedbob I saw that but. U didn't remove side button or dpi button ...i wanted to ask if remove those buttons will it work fine?
After changing so many mice I still came back to this G305. Egg-shaped gang 4ever
Its an underrated mouse...
@@Beardedbob Fact.
what happens if i have sweaty hands? can i damage the mouse?
Dehumidifier lol
Is there a g502 lightspeed version of this?
The 3d shell for a g502 do you mean?
@@Beardedbob yes or a nodded superlight version of the g502 lightspeed? Loving my g502 lightspeed but was looking to see if there's any good alternatives to shed some grams :) keep up the great work!
Is there a way to make g305 left handed?
only by creating or have someone like @modsmouse create you a new shell.
won't this make the mouse more prone to dust?
All mice get dusty
I have a titan g mini wireless that I managed to get down to 82g but I'm considering doing a cell battery mod, not sure how hard that would be though and I could get rid of the battery tray too
actually considering this mouse has a charging port I think I might just add a rechargeable batter like an ultra custom
you can always send it over for me to mod shop.beardedbob.com/collections/customised-gaming-mouse/products/repair-broken-mouse-switch-or-replace-with-better-service
not as easy as its sounds, you will need a pcb made to handle the voltage change.
@@Beardedbob it was actually simple, because for some reason the battery they give you is 3.7v and doesnt work with normal aa batteries. i've got it down to 67g but thats with a 180mah just waiting for my 100 one should hopfully be down to 65g. watching your videos has inspired me to do it
Why wouldn't logitech just release a superlight g305 :( its the mouse I have the best aim with, and I've tried everything, g pro wireless, razer viper, model o.
The G305 makes them enough money and they don't want to invest in further development for a niche is my guess.
Fire
🔥
how long does the battery last
LR44 about 8 hours in testing or he 675 about 3 to 7 days. The 675 fits the same holder and has more mah
@@Beardedbob how do you recharge it do you need to buy a lr44 charger or something?
Razer Naga Pro Ultralight please.
Its coming... just getting more Razers chopped up.. RVU is this week.
Why 40 lr44 are 7€ and 6 amazon basics lr44 are 5 euros, and 10 duracell are 8 euros, what im gonna buy now? 40 batteries for 7 euros are a scam or what?
18p or euro for a battery seems cheap tbh
Using 3v makes the mouse peep idk what is that
3 volts?
can you please make the Logitech g204 lighter
Its on the list to do :-)
@@Beardedbob thank you so much
Now it's Logitech G305 pro x superlight
sure is
sure is
sure is
Parfait
oh man i dont have a 3d printer
Bro i thought this mouse was 100 grams by default without a battery
G305? Stock without a battery it’s 75/74 👍
@@Beardedbob ohh okay any suggestions to make it lighter?
Да это жестко
Just worked 3 days with lr44 and it"s over :(
Try a pr44
@@Beardedbob nice!!! I'll bring the feedback. Tks!
@@matheuslinocamilo Hi mate. How much backup did you get with PR44?
Basicaly a g pro x
after the mods yep bar the shape
Yeah because every g305 owner has a 3D printer xD
Just buy a honeycomb mouse
You can pay for someone to print the parts 🤷🏼♂️.. it’s an old video also when light weight mice were limited.. decent options about now
Is it really worth it tho? Looks so horrible
is that Aerox 3? Jk
I mean it could be at a glance :-p.. this is what you are looking for sir th-cam.com/video/K80KZRUImUo/w-d-xo.html
Sincere question: why would you want a 60 gram mouse?
I think it makes it feel cheap and like a toy.
For gaming if you are a competitive gamer you need the lightest mouse possible so you can aim fast and react fast
Actually first
Sorry you are second :-(.. but im eyes its a joint frist :-p
first
Contracts you are the best
@@Beardedbob i guve u sub man