Can we just take a second to bask in this man's glory? He knows many, many things about computers, he is actually good at video games (unlike many tech tubers), he is good at modding things, he is a great photographer and video editor (shots look better than LTT imo, they spend like 100k on cameras and have a team of editors), good at writing scripts, makes regular and consistently good content, and is probably good at a bunch of other stuff too. And through all of that, he works out and is jacked.
Completely agree. I wonder what he does for a job... maybe engineering related? Either way, he's the only person on TH-cam whose videos I instantly click like on.
To be fair, you shouldn't compare him to LTT. He's a TH-camr and most likely is working independently, without a team. Everything about his videos is his exclusively, from scripts, camera angles, ideas, choices of sponsors, etc. and he only releases videos like once per week. On the other hand, the Linus Media Group is a decent-sized company already, and there are multiple people working on different types of videos for various channels, which produce videos every day on each channel. You can't expect them to have such unique factors like this guy does. It's like you're comparing your favorite local coffee shop with Starbucks. Either is bad but neither of them is better than the other.
@@therealMrHai Good analogy, i guess that is the reason i like optimum more. He makes videos that seem to reflect his own hobbies and interests which make the videos feel more genuine.
Oh yes, it really is a game changer. I used it to desolder every switch from my keyboard to upgrade them. Still took a lot of time, but at least it worked consistently!
I did all of this a few months ago to my G Pro Wireless instead of my Superlight because I liked the additional features and wanted to see how light I could get it while keeping the DPS button and RGB logo. 60 grams lol 3 grams lighter then a superlight. It was fun as hell. I also got a bottom plate model from Etsy and 3D printed it except mine was honeycomb. Swapped out the battery for a 100mah battery, snipped and dremeled away some unnecessary plastic from the skeleton, etc. Changed all the switches as well. Kailh GM 2.0 Teals and Kailh SMT Mini Greens for the side switches. And put on some Corepad Skatez. So ridiculous but I love it lmao. I didn't even think of 3D printing a new bottom plate using carbon fiber filament till you said something in this video. I have some laying around I'm totally doing that now lol thank you.
I know it's a tiny battery, but it's a li-po still. So you still have to take extreme care to not short it, especially not by cutting the positive and negative wires together. That's a short right there, when you click. The protection circuit might have just saved you from a tiny but powerful fireball, that ANY lithium battery can be. They are not fun, and anyone attempting this, or any other lithium battery involved mod, please, do not cut the leads together, and never let them touch together when depinned or prepared for soldering!
Can confirm that even a small lipo will cause a rather inconvenient fire, though for me usually, the bigger the lipo, the more scared i am of it 😂 My 2 144Wh 6s lipos do make me ever so slightly uncomfortable having them in my room, but regular inspection for puffing and IR and keeping it at storage will usually show if it's safe or not
305 is probably easier to modify than this. get a AAA to AA battery adapter, get a honeycomb battery cover, and you'll shave A LOT of weight off that mouse. Get those grip stickers too while at it, they feel really great with the 305. I wouldn't really recommend changing the main switches though. I tried soldering my own TTC gold (80M) and it never felt the same ever again. Why? because the tension system will ruin itself after disassembly. Getting the LR buttons out was a real bitch to deal with, and it's very easy to accidentally bend them plastic buttons permanently. Bent buttons could result in different travel distance between the button itself and the switch. In my case, I bent my right button downwards, and as a result, my right button had no distance whatsoever from the switch, while the left one is still properly tensioned and had a little distance from the switch. And yeah, you can feel the difference in travel distance really easily. So I just took my left button out again and bent it downwards as well, that fixed the travel distance imbalance problem. So, this method is really a jank one, and I swore I won't open my G305 ever again unless something failed inside.
@@josuad6890 i would still reccomend to switch your switches (haha, get it?) But if you're not comfortable tearing apart the device it could ruin the click tension, but it is better than a double clicking, inconsistent switches I changed my switches and the LR buttons are really tricky to put apart or put together, but if you really patience it's really not that hard I might suggest you to reassamble the mouse again, it might just be a misalign plastic plate
Just to point out for ppl that wanna try, Optimum Tech modded the switches to TTC Gold Dustproof 50M, there is a 80M version but both are considered to be on the 'heavier' side of mouse micro switches like the Kailh GM 4.0 I do like them a lot too cuz they are just so much more snappier but I prefer a 'medium' weight like Kailh GM 8.0 for gaming that is a middle ground between the TTC Gold and stock made in China Omron D2FC switches which is considered to be among the lightest of mouse switches Of course the upper shell and how it contacts the switch makes a big difference in keyfeel so it's very much from a mouse to mouse basis The stock scroll encoder if I'm not mistaken is a TTC Silver/White Core 8mm that is a more premium "heavier" feeling scroll encoder. Heavier for scroll encoders means each step/notch is more pronounced and tactile feeling The Kailh Red Core encoder is technically a downgrade because of the lifespan but some ppl prefer a more 'lighter' buttery feeling scroll I myself prefer a more heavier scroll encoder with very defined and pronounced steps so I use either the Alps encoder or the TTC Gold/Yellow core As for the mouse skates I recommend Tiger Arc ICE. They're usually cheaper than Corepads but have the same smoothness and glide performance. You can get the Tiger Arc V1 or V2 if you're on a budget but they aren't as frictionless You can try Pulsar Superglide glass skates but I heard they are almost too fast and that they do dull/roughen up mousepads faster than PTFE skates. So there'll be a rough spot in the middle of your mousepad after a couple weeks or months depending on your usage, but it is currently the skates with the least friction Source : I offer mouse modding & repairing services on the side
@@innoillust they are more of less the same feeling in terms of keyfeel. If it feels light to you perhaps your mouse upper shell shape makes it feel easier to click
Thanks for the detailed post! I can't find anything about 50m TTC Gold Dustproof switches. I only see 30/60/80M switches online. Also from the video he never shows the side with the model text, but we can sort of see it from the other side, and it SEEMS like it's saying 30M from the back to me. Is there a different model that I can't locate online??
4:32 This is the part where I suggest you to have some proper soldering tools ; get yourself a soldering iron which can adjust the temperture or else the pcb would be burned. Also it'll be easier to just add more solder(some with a lower melting temp to easy melting those factory solder sticking on switches+encoders.
@@gamiiee typically u dont want it too hot, i find 300-350C is enough for both soldering and desoldering. 350C is a bit too hot usually for my case, as i can see the solder tin is browning but its still usable (and relatively safe for pcb) if you want the extra heat for whatever reason.
@@gamiiee oh yeah, i forgot theres lead-free thats a bit harder to melt. Anyway, while some pcb like these are more sensitive to heat its not really an issue if you dont burn the solder tin/lead and dont stick the iron on it for too long
I love modding mice. Loosing a few grams can really make a big difference in feel. Also, TJ Exclusives offers a lightweight base for the G Pro X that can drop the weight to 54G without the battery mod or cutting up internals. It also retains the dongle holder.
My mans cut up internals & slashed his battery life in half but didn't want more holes in the base... Very odd choice. I find it quite funny that you can get the same weight reduction he achieved with just a single well-made base.
I'd love to see the next version of the Superlight being exactly the same, but with an 8K sensor and maybe 10-15 grams lighter. And hopefully a more tactile scroll wheel.
would also be nice if theres a small variant. Imo the gpx has such a bulky shape i just cant find any reference points for my hands to sit comfortably at
Great job, it's quite an involved process to mod such a mouse. I wonder if the 3d printed base will crack since injection molded plastic is very tough in comparison
You're actually more likely to have heat issues if printed in PLA than toughness issues. 3D prints are a lot stronger than a lot of people want to assume. *Me included everytime I intentionally try to break one.*
@@ventilate4267This, 3d printed pieces are really only weak when printing tall/small parts vertically. PLA doesnt have the best layer adhesion, and you can work around this vertical stack weakness with many other materials.
Awesome biceps man. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.
Your vids are awesome, thanks so much for experimenting like this, I genuinly feel it help the tech and gaming industry improve their standards by highlighting the missed potential.
Legit the only device ive ever modded, Personally only went for switches scroll wheel and pads, but it still changes the mouse so much and makes it what it should've been out the box
hey mate. seeing you for long time and noticing your apex interest getting more day by day and i love that. is it possible for you to make a video completely dedicated about your game routine especially for Apex and kovak. like you sitting posture, practice routine, mouse grip, what sens you prefer,what kinda mouse pad, how you keep yourself active like how much break you take and anything you have in mind please. i would love to dig in to that and i am sure theer are many viewers who wants to see that as well. keep growing mate..ggs :)
I have changed 3 Times my switches. First Time with your méthod with à solder Pump and it was a désaster. I Can give you another méthod easier for me which doesnt need extra tools : Add a litle more tin on the 3 pins , then you Can easy heat UP the tin of 3 pins at the same Time and when all 3 are liquid, just push the Switch out of the pcb 😁
Personally I’m fine with the stock weight of the mouse, but I might actually try to change the switches because I’ve always felt the stock ones are quite heavy. Did you ever consider swapping out the side button switches?
Some remarks: * That massive cavity at the back * Your shirt sleeves are losing against your biceps * That play when you knew they were coming up the elevator shaft
Funny how the Pulsar X2 got into the hands of reviewers at the exact same time as you released this video :^) The X2 is an absolute beast which could EASILY replace the GPX for MANY people.
I would be careful with 3d printed bases since if you move the sensor up or down even a bit can make it read much worse if the surface is out of focus. Here it looks like you didn't have thinner spots under the skates, which looked a bit sketchy to me
I modded my G305. 3D printed a honeycomb shell, removed the side buttons (I am left-handed, they were useless) and removed the battery tray to install a button cell battery (A675). It went from the stock 99 g with a AA battery to 59 g. I love it. I wouldn't change it for a G Pro Superlight, because the G Pro is too big for my hand.
My technique for removing mouse switches is using a very large conical solder tip to touch all the joints at the same time. Doing that I can just melt all the solder joints at once and pull the switch out in seconds.
epic, It is nice to see more and more ppl doing 3d printing base to weight reduce. I mod my whole gpx with 3d painting part, and manage to bring the weight down to 39g.
That's a pretty rough bottom in regards to 3d printing, on my glass bed the print itself usually comes out glass like too. I'm sure they have glass/pei beds for core xy? printers, it would give you a much cleaner bottom surface and much less post processing.
For anyone else looking for a light clicking switch (after a lot of testing) I've found OMRON D2F-01F switches to bin with the lightest clicks. These switches have a taller than normal contact pad, so if that's a dealbreaker for you go with the OMRON D2F-F-3-7. The Honeywell UX10C are similarly light, but in my opinion, not worth the clost or effort to track down. Also, if you want the absolute lightest clicks, buy a 100g tension gauge and more switches than you need.
what if someone made a 3d printed enclosure or a mod for the superlight to make it a fingertip grip mouse, cuz from what I can see there's just an empty gaping hole of plastic with a battery in it (7:46)
Most likely all good, but to mention battery concern. You are cutting battery capacity in half, but charging current stays as for prev one. And since you are getting rid if thermistor (3rd wire) which monitors overheat, better to not charge it unattended. Maybe it’s possible to adjust charging current by swapping some resistor for charge chip, not sure if possible. And maybe carefully transfer old 3 wire battery protection circuit to new battery (small circuit under orange kapton tape). Otherwise really cool mod, thanks!
Awesome modification, even better would be using ABS for the base, because ABS is lighter, stronger and more heat resistant (not really applicable) than PLA
Optimum Tech - “It’s pretty simple …😥 -All the while he’s basically manufacturing a whole new mouse lmaoooooo. You’re a brilliant guy however the people that attempt this will most likely end up with a $150.00 usd paperweight lmaoooo
Just curious what TTC Golds did you Use the 30M the 60M or the 80M I have my GPX modded with the Kailh encoder and some GM 8.0 I’ve used these switches for a very long time want to try something different.
definitely possible to use the stock base and just modify that yourself, could be a bit more work but might be worth trying for anyone still wanting to do this w/o 3d printing
Factory solder, especially the one Logitech uses is rather stubborn. What helps is to just heat it up and add your own solder to it, then you can easily remove it with your desoldering pump.
It is amazing to me that a man as built as him needs to shave off not even a dozen grams of a mouse that’s already less than 65g. My man lifts more than 65kg at the gym and here he is making something already kinda weightless feeling, even more weightless lol.
What's the PIN pitch on the original battery connector? That's the distance between each of the pins, something like 1.25mm is common. If you give us that information we can find the correct JST connector on aftermarket batteries and not have to rewire anything.
What if I told you I have a modded g305 at 58grams for 2 years now? Waaaay easier mod too without even cutting or drilling the mouse! All with a perfect middle center of mass, rubber grips and kailh 8.0 switches! Best mouse ever for small hands.
If you have some 205g0 from switch lubing, try putting that on the contact points where the scroll wheel touches the internals of the mouse shell. Sounds like you're a fan of quiet and smooth scroll wheels, and lube is a great mod for this outcome.
Def although I love loud and tactility of TTC gold encoder, I cannot stand the crackling noise when you scroll up and down very fast. After I lubed inside the rotary, the mouse wheel, the stand-off of the mouse wheel, finally no more crackling noise and a little bit quiet noise which I can deal with but smoother scrolling which I like. I can still feel the steps but in much more smoother. Recommended to lube the scroll wheel so you don't hear "broken" scrolling anymore
this is just so great. thank you for that and for your continuos work. I am between the Razer Deathadder/Viper or G-Pro Superlight. I've already modded two mice myself but not to this extend and with that professionel outcome. 150 bucks right out the window would be heartbreaking. Sad that you're in AUS, I'd gladly pay you for 85% of the things you've done with that mouse 😅
Can we just take a second to bask in this man's glory? He knows many, many things about computers, he is actually good at video games (unlike many tech tubers), he is good at modding things, he is a great photographer and video editor (shots look better than LTT imo, they spend like 100k on cameras and have a team of editors), good at writing scripts, makes regular and consistently good content, and is probably good at a bunch of other stuff too. And through all of that, he works out and is jacked.
Completely agree. I wonder what he does for a job... maybe engineering related? Either way, he's the only person on TH-cam whose videos I instantly click like on.
@@F1fanatic21 I imagine this is his job
And he has a cool cat.
To be fair, you shouldn't compare him to LTT. He's a TH-camr and most likely is working independently, without a team. Everything about his videos is his exclusively, from scripts, camera angles, ideas, choices of sponsors, etc. and he only releases videos like once per week.
On the other hand, the Linus Media Group is a decent-sized company already, and there are multiple people working on different types of videos for various channels, which produce videos every day on each channel. You can't expect them to have such unique factors like this guy does. It's like you're comparing your favorite local coffee shop with Starbucks. Either is bad but neither of them is better than the other.
@@therealMrHai Good analogy, i guess that is the reason i like optimum more. He makes videos that seem to reflect his own hobbies and interests which make the videos feel more genuine.
Hey optimum I would really suggest you invest 30 bucks for the SS-02 desoldering pump. Makes the job easier due to better quality and flexible tip.
100% this. The SS-02 is a game changer
Also get a nice soldering iron, something like the pinecil with a set of tips.
Oh yes, it really is a game changer. I used it to desolder every switch from my keyboard to upgrade them. Still took a lot of time, but at least it worked consistently!
or if you have like $300 you can get the hakko desoldering gun idk if you do that much though
@@tomato6102 desoldering gun def make the job so much easier
I did all of this a few months ago to my G Pro Wireless instead of my Superlight because I liked the additional features and wanted to see how light I could get it while keeping the DPS button and RGB logo. 60 grams lol 3 grams lighter then a superlight. It was fun as hell. I also got a bottom plate model from Etsy and 3D printed it except mine was honeycomb. Swapped out the battery for a 100mah battery, snipped and dremeled away some unnecessary plastic from the skeleton, etc. Changed all the switches as well. Kailh GM 2.0 Teals and Kailh SMT Mini Greens for the side switches. And put on some Corepad Skatez. So ridiculous but I love it lmao. I didn't even think of 3D printing a new bottom plate using carbon fiber filament till you said something in this video. I have some laying around I'm totally doing that now lol thank you.
Imagine how light it would be if you did it to a superlight
It's like a super light with RGB.
can you share the file?
@@xt0 yeah sure you have discord or somethin?
@@PabzRoz u sent it yet?
I know it's a tiny battery, but it's a li-po still. So you still have to take extreme care to not short it, especially not by cutting the positive and negative wires together. That's a short right there, when you click. The protection circuit might have just saved you from a tiny but powerful fireball, that ANY lithium battery can be. They are not fun, and anyone attempting this, or any other lithium battery involved mod, please, do not cut the leads together, and never let them touch together when depinned or prepared for soldering!
Can confirm that even a small lipo will cause a rather inconvenient fire, though for me usually, the bigger the lipo, the more scared i am of it 😂
My 2 144Wh 6s lipos do make me ever so slightly uncomfortable having them in my room, but regular inspection for puffing and IR and keeping it at storage will usually show if it's safe or not
absolutely zero chance i'm doing all this but cool and entertaining to watch nonetheless
fr lmao
fr, people do all of this and are still hardstuck diamond
@@Boofski any small advantage is still a advantage in competitive gaming especially pro league.
@@nikkoshodo name one pro that uses a custom mouse with cutouts
@@nikkoshodo Then just buy a lighter mouse ffs. Surely anyone in pro league can afford it.
It would be cool to see you modding a g305 to the extreme as well.
305 is probably easier to modify than this. get a AAA to AA battery adapter, get a honeycomb battery cover, and you'll shave A LOT of weight off that mouse. Get those grip stickers too while at it, they feel really great with the 305. I wouldn't really recommend changing the main switches though.
I tried soldering my own TTC gold (80M) and it never felt the same ever again. Why? because the tension system will ruin itself after disassembly. Getting the LR buttons out was a real bitch to deal with, and it's very easy to accidentally bend them plastic buttons permanently. Bent buttons could result in different travel distance between the button itself and the switch. In my case, I bent my right button downwards, and as a result, my right button had no distance whatsoever from the switch, while the left one is still properly tensioned and had a little distance from the switch. And yeah, you can feel the difference in travel distance really easily. So I just took my left button out again and bent it downwards as well, that fixed the travel distance imbalance problem. So, this method is really a jank one, and I swore I won't open my G305 ever again unless something failed inside.
@@josuad6890 also Lithium battery
You can turn it into a g pro
@@josuad6890 i would still reccomend to switch your switches (haha, get it?) But if you're not comfortable tearing apart the device it could ruin the click tension, but it is better than a double clicking, inconsistent switches
I changed my switches and the LR buttons are really tricky to put apart or put together, but if you really patience it's really not that hard
I might suggest you to reassamble the mouse again, it might just be a misalign plastic plate
@Procurador Bearded Bob did a great one!
The middle white wire is actually for a thermistor located inside the battery. It is for monitoring battery temperature during charging and usage.
Just to point out for ppl that wanna try, Optimum Tech modded the switches to TTC Gold Dustproof 50M, there is a 80M version but both are considered to be on the 'heavier' side of mouse micro switches like the Kailh GM 4.0
I do like them a lot too cuz they are just so much more snappier but I prefer a 'medium' weight like Kailh GM 8.0 for gaming that is a middle ground between the TTC Gold and stock made in China Omron D2FC switches which is considered to be among the lightest of mouse switches
Of course the upper shell and how it contacts the switch makes a big difference in keyfeel so it's very much from a mouse to mouse basis
The stock scroll encoder if I'm not mistaken is a TTC Silver/White Core 8mm that is a more premium "heavier" feeling scroll encoder. Heavier for scroll encoders means each step/notch is more pronounced and tactile feeling
The Kailh Red Core encoder is technically a downgrade because of the lifespan but some ppl prefer a more 'lighter' buttery feeling scroll
I myself prefer a more heavier scroll encoder with very defined and pronounced steps so I use either the Alps encoder or the TTC Gold/Yellow core
As for the mouse skates I recommend Tiger Arc ICE. They're usually cheaper than Corepads but have the same smoothness and glide performance. You can get the Tiger Arc V1 or V2 if you're on a budget but they aren't as frictionless
You can try Pulsar Superglide glass skates but I heard they are almost too fast and that they do dull/roughen up mousepads faster than PTFE skates. So there'll be a rough spot in the middle of your mousepad after a couple weeks or months depending on your usage, but it is currently the skates with the least friction
Source : I offer mouse modding & repairing services on the side
Is the TTC Gold 50M and the 80M color the same? I've been using the 80M one and it feels light to me already
@@innoillust they are more of less the same feeling in terms of keyfeel. If it feels light to you perhaps your mouse upper shell shape makes it feel easier to click
Thanks for the detailed post! I can't find anything about 50m TTC Gold Dustproof switches. I only see 30/60/80M switches online. Also from the video he never shows the side with the model text, but we can sort of see it from the other side, and it SEEMS like it's saying 30M from the back to me. Is there a different model that I can't locate online??
*Casually puts in clip of INSANE aim training as b-roll*
4:32
This is the part where I suggest you to have some proper soldering tools ; get yourself a soldering iron which can adjust the temperture or else the pcb would be burned. Also it'll be easier to just add more solder(some with a lower melting temp to easy melting those factory solder sticking on switches+encoders.
Just wondering how hot my soldering iron should be for this kind of thing
@@gamiiee typically u dont want it too hot, i find 300-350C is enough for both soldering and desoldering. 350C is a bit too hot usually for my case, as i can see the solder tin is browning but its still usable (and relatively safe for pcb) if you want the extra heat for whatever reason.
@@Crustee0 I see I usually used 300 for lead solder 350 for lead free
Or just buy the PCB pre built with the switches you want. Takes away the time and extra money you have to spend purchasing the equipment.
@@gamiiee oh yeah, i forgot theres lead-free thats a bit harder to melt. Anyway, while some pcb like these are more sensitive to heat its not really an issue if you dont burn the solder tin/lead and dont stick the iron on it for too long
You are the future of quality content on the internet, a section of it. In 10 years time you will be so fucking big, you'll be everywhere
I love modding mice. Loosing a few grams can really make a big difference in feel. Also, TJ Exclusives offers a lightweight base for the G Pro X that can drop the weight to 54G without the battery mod or cutting up internals. It also retains the dongle holder.
its only 6 grams, it will drop to 55g
@@haz2022 If you don't keep the magnetic charging base stuff it drops another 1.5g.
My mans cut up internals & slashed his battery life in half but didn't want more holes in the base... Very odd choice.
I find it quite funny that you can get the same weight reduction he achieved with just a single well-made base.
@@timfulton8519 Oh okay!
0:13 Is that a cat ?
Yes
Yes it is
I was afraid of modifying mine and then I got the courage to do it. Holy! what a difference!
just finished modding mine and got it down to 48, super hyped about it
I'd love to see the next version of the Superlight being exactly the same, but with an 8K sensor and maybe 10-15 grams lighter. And hopefully a more tactile scroll wheel.
Honestly that combo would be godly but that is a LOOONG time down the line for wireless.
And usb c
I like the scrole wheel how it is but i agree with the idea of the weight reduction
Would be nice but 10 - 15 grams lighter is a lor
would also be nice if theres a small variant. Imo the gpx has such a bulky shape i just cant find any reference points for my hands to sit comfortably at
Great job, it's quite an involved process to mod such a mouse. I wonder if the 3d printed base will crack since injection molded plastic is very tough in comparison
It's not subject to very large forces at all, I wouldn't expect it to Crack. 3d printed carbon may be even better though. Could be a cool mod
You're actually more likely to have heat issues if printed in PLA than toughness issues. 3D prints are a lot stronger than a lot of people want to assume. *Me included everytime I intentionally try to break one.*
@@ventilate4267This, 3d printed pieces are really only weak when printing tall/small parts vertically. PLA doesnt have the best layer adhesion, and you can work around this vertical stack weakness with many other materials.
It would only crack from bending it and with it attached to the rest of the shell it shouldn't be bending much.
@@ventilate4267 what do you mean by heat issues? like melting? how does it get hot enough to have issues?
Awesome biceps man. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.
Dude, your thumbnails give me so much joyu to see! Obviously the video quality is great too, I just really appreciate great thumbnails!
Awesome video Ali ! ❤️🤩
you are gradually becoming my favourite youtuber
Been studying these videos and BeardedBob's for my own first time modding attempt. Thank you so much for your hard work haha
Just woke up and already watching an optimum tech video? It’s going to be a good good day
This channel just keeps getting better!!
The depth you dive to is pretty refreshing actually, this the content I was missing!
I love that he doesn't just build the thing and ends the video, but also goes in depht about how it feels and if it was really worth building
That thumbnail is beautiful!
His thumbnails are getting cracked
Optimum tech is the new tech tips channel
Your vids are awesome, thanks so much for experimenting like this, I genuinly feel it help the tech and gaming industry improve their standards by highlighting the missed potential.
Legit the only device ive ever modded, Personally only went for switches scroll wheel and pads, but it still changes the mouse so much and makes it what it should've been out the box
Great video, you're a skilled guy.
I rock the tcc golds. Stock weight. Been using a v2 mini pulsar. Waiting on the x2’s to release.
I can't be the only one looking at Ali's traps in the mirror... I need to know this godly workout routine
Yep, if you can make it better then just do it, diy upgrading is one of my favourite activities too, great video
What I like in this channel more than the reviews is the amazing thumbnails I really hope you continue making them!
This is really cool sir!
hey mate. seeing you for long time and noticing your apex interest getting more day by day and i love that.
is it possible for you to make a video completely dedicated about your game routine especially for Apex and kovak.
like you sitting posture, practice routine, mouse grip, what sens you prefer,what kinda mouse pad, how you keep yourself active like how much break you take and anything you have in mind please. i would love to dig in to that and i am sure theer are many viewers who wants to see that as well.
keep growing mate..ggs :)
I have changed 3 Times my switches.
First Time with your méthod with à solder Pump and it was a désaster.
I Can give you another méthod easier for me which doesnt need extra tools :
Add a litle more tin on the 3 pins , then you Can easy heat UP the tin of 3 pins at the same Time and when all 3 are liquid, just push the Switch out of the pcb 😁
This guy is the real life Tony Stark. I was originally interested in the content of his videos, but now im more interested in the man himself
this guy
NEEDS to make his own brand or something your so smart !!!!!!
Personally I’m fine with the stock weight of the mouse, but I might actually try to change the switches because I’ve always felt the stock ones are quite heavy. Did you ever consider swapping out the side button switches?
Some remarks:
* That massive cavity at the back
* Your shirt sleeves are losing against your biceps
* That play when you knew they were coming up the elevator shaft
Damn this guys is everything he’s good at games and hella smart with tech and everything related you deserve for me to subscribe 👍🏻
Glad to know where actually the strange scrolling wheel feeling coming from now, will replace that in the future.
Yo you like read my mind i was just looking for a g pro x superlight modding video and you made one!
lmao i was just cracking up as he is like "its a simple and easy job" broceeds to rewire battery
2:21 if you want to get it super smooth sand it, put super glue on it and sand it again. After this spray paint it.
Funny how the Pulsar X2 got into the hands of reviewers at the exact same time as you released this video :^)
The X2 is an absolute beast which could EASILY replace the GPX for MANY people.
I would be careful with 3d printed bases since if you move the sensor up or down even a bit can make it read much worse if the surface is out of focus. Here it looks like you didn't have thinner spots under the skates, which looked a bit sketchy to me
Really cool thumbnail!
this is super crazy
i got the super light recently and its too light that i never thought it could ever go lighter
My buddy Xolse got his gpx down to 45grams without using a 3D printed base or drilling any holes in the shell!
Lmao “this is what the Superlight v2 will be like” did not age too well
that Zaunkoenig really hooked him on light weight :D
just wanna say you are absolutely pumped bro, gym video when? 👀
im using this about two months now, best mouse ever created
I modded my G305. 3D printed a honeycomb shell, removed the side buttons (I am left-handed, they were useless) and removed the battery tray to install a button cell battery (A675). It went from the stock 99 g with a AA battery to 59 g. I love it. I wouldn't change it for a G Pro Superlight, because the G Pro is too big for my hand.
My technique for removing mouse switches is using a very large conical solder tip to touch all the joints at the same time. Doing that I can just melt all the solder joints at once and pull the switch out in seconds.
epic, It is nice to see more and more ppl doing 3d printing base to weight reduce. I mod my whole gpx with 3d painting part, and manage to bring the weight down to 39g.
in your last mod video u use the kailh gm 2.0. do u prefer the gold one now? i had ordered some of the kailh already.
That's a pretty rough bottom in regards to 3d printing, on my glass bed the print itself usually comes out glass like too. I'm sure they have glass/pei beds for core xy? printers, it would give you a much cleaner bottom surface and much less post processing.
Looks very under extruded and too far from the bed, he's probably new to 3d printing
@@Impecable.. no don't think so, he's done some custom case parts before
Love your videos!
This was in my watch later playlist and when I woke up, I looked at my watch later playlist and saw that I watched this while I was sleeping 😭😂
Love the tap strafe example 👏💐
For anyone else looking for a light clicking switch (after a lot of testing) I've found OMRON D2F-01F switches to bin with the lightest clicks. These switches have a taller than normal contact pad, so if that's a dealbreaker for you go with the OMRON D2F-F-3-7. The Honeywell UX10C are similarly light, but in my opinion, not worth the clost or effort to track down.
Also, if you want the absolute lightest clicks, buy a 100g tension gauge and more switches than you need.
Fellow ttc gold enjoyer 😎
what if someone made a 3d printed enclosure or a mod for the superlight to make it a fingertip grip mouse, cuz from what I can see there's just an empty gaping hole of plastic with a battery in it (7:46)
Most likely all good, but to mention battery concern. You are cutting battery capacity in half, but charging current stays as for prev one. And since you are getting rid if thermistor (3rd wire) which monitors overheat, better to not charge it unattended. Maybe it’s possible to adjust charging current by swapping some resistor for charge chip, not sure if possible. And maybe carefully transfer old 3 wire battery protection circuit to new battery (small circuit under orange kapton tape). Otherwise really cool mod, thanks!
Amazing video!
Awesome modification, even better would be using ABS for the base, because ABS is lighter, stronger and more heat resistant (not really applicable) than PLA
this guy makes the heaviest mice feel like the lightest ones
amazing thumbnail!!
Stuff like this is why I prefer optimum tech over a lot of other tech channels keep up the nice content 🤌🏽
Great video! Reckon you could do a walk-through on your forearm vascularity mod?
As a cat owner myself, I have to ask -- where can I get the carpet/mat at 11:27? Seems like the perfect kneading and scratching area for cats lol
Optimum Tech - “It’s pretty simple …😥 -All the while he’s basically manufacturing a whole new mouse lmaoooooo. You’re a brilliant guy however the people that attempt this will most likely end up with a $150.00 usd paperweight lmaoooo
Just curious what TTC Golds did you Use the 30M the 60M or the 80M I have my GPX modded with the Kailh encoder and some GM 8.0 I’ve used these switches for a very long time want to try something different.
30m
u can see on vid
@@skurek7 I just saw that thanks i went with 60M on my main mouse and use 80m on my secondary GPWS really like the feel of the 80m
definitely possible to use the stock base and just modify that yourself, could be a bit more work but might be worth trying for anyone still wanting to do this w/o 3d printing
Dope video, makes me want to get stuck into mine.
that thumbnail though :o
Factory solder, especially the one Logitech uses is rather stubborn. What helps is to just heat it up and add your own solder to it, then you can easily remove it with your desoldering pump.
really good video. i have to g pro x superlight with a lighter battery as well :).
It is amazing to me that a man as built as him needs to shave off not even a dozen grams of a mouse that’s already less than 65g. My man lifts more than 65kg at the gym and here he is making something already kinda weightless feeling, even more weightless lol.
The magenta superlight is honestly one of the prettiest colours of mouse ever
Bro that is pink
@@yolkedmelon shut up it’s magenta
@@-keiskx1774 it literally says pink on Logitech's website
@@yolkedmelon magenta and pink is basically the same colour it doesn’t matter. And I live in aus and on Australian sites it says magenta
"It's simple! Wait.. you've never fully disassembled a mouse and desoldered all of its components?"
Solid mod video, might be a fun project to attempt and you made the steps easy to follow
You could try lubing the scroll wheel although some people would like more defined steps
What's the PIN pitch on the original battery connector? That's the distance between each of the pins, something like 1.25mm is common. If you give us that information we can find the correct JST connector on aftermarket batteries and not have to rewire anything.
It looks to me like Picoblade rather than JST. But indeed someone better measure this :D
Bro all the game play you have on your videos are elite , you a undercover pro player ?
some naaaaasty clips bro
Ha! Now this is the base G pro x superlight 2 weight
Nice chair ali, may I ask what chair you use? great mod as always!
What if I told you I have a modded g305 at 58grams for 2 years now? Waaaay easier mod too without even cutting or drilling the mouse! All with a perfect middle center of mass, rubber grips and kailh 8.0 switches! Best mouse ever for small hands.
Second that. Im intrigued
Great video! I would only ask for maybe kovaak's playlist that you use or some scenarios.
amazing thumbnail quality
Just bought this mouse and so I came across this vid randomly.. really cool though, nice one! :)
If you have some 205g0 from switch lubing, try putting that on the contact points where the scroll wheel touches the internals of the mouse shell. Sounds like you're a fan of quiet and smooth scroll wheels, and lube is a great mod for this outcome.
Def although I love loud and tactility of TTC gold encoder, I cannot stand the crackling noise when you scroll up and down very fast.
After I lubed inside the rotary, the mouse wheel, the stand-off of the mouse wheel, finally no more crackling noise and a little bit quiet noise which I can deal with but smoother scrolling which I like. I can still feel the steps but in much more smoother. Recommended to lube the scroll wheel so you don't hear "broken" scrolling anymore
getting into keyboard modding so picked up a hakko-301. Learning about how to tip tin. Check it out if anyone has issues with their soldering
this is just so great. thank you for that and for your continuos work. I am between the Razer Deathadder/Viper or G-Pro Superlight. I've already modded two mice myself but not to this extend and with that professionel outcome. 150 bucks right out the window would be heartbreaking. Sad that you're in AUS, I'd gladly pay you for 85% of the things you've done with that mouse 😅