Great video! The video seems to throw out the sealed speakers as an ideal build, but here's a few pros to mention about sealed enclosures for a different perspective: 1) When choosing ported or sealed, you actually need less cubic ft for sealed. The advantage of building a sealed enclosure is being able to play in a lower range of frequencies versus ported. Sealed is great if you are very limited on space. At 3 cubic feet for this enclosure how low is it playing frequency wise? I would think frequencies the sealed box plays would be significantly lower than 34hz. If it's not, I would suspect the plywood is a culprit. To keep the true lower frequency response, the box cannot flex at all or have any air gaps. (MDF is highly suggested) The bass overall wont be as loud in a sealed box. 2) While you can build a port and tune it to a low frequency, you generally will need more cubic feet for the ported enclosure so the port can properly work, AND your response curve will end up with a peak at the tuned frequency. 3) It takes more power to make the same level of loudness in a sealed versus a ported enclosure. Many people will overpower the sub quicker and easier trying to get it loud. It's the exceeding of the XMax that causes the jack hammering, NOT the sealed enclosure. A higher rated speaker with more XMax and or more dampening and other factors along with a bigger amp is one way to fix this issue without going to ported and be able to get louder. Yes it's the less efficient route, but it preserves sound quality. 4) More excursion occurs in a ported versus a sealed. In a ported box, going below the tuning frequency can cause Xmax to be exceeded the lower you go in frequency, and thus cause damage. 5) Sealed provides much better control of the speaker. This is crucial if you are doing sound quality.
I've run into the same problem with a 6.5 Skar in a transmission line box. From my searching around, I've found that when you try to play to low with a sub that's not capable of playing that low the sub looses cone control and makes that bottoming out noise. Someone said to limit your sub sonic filter and you wont have that problem. I love that you built a box that big for that thing.
6.5" subs have too much motor force and too little cone area mixed in with an Fs that's way to high to play that low. The cone will lose control every time. If you have a T line that is at all appropriately sized, then you'll more than likely find that your speaker is actually "unloading" and over-excursion ABOVE the tuning, not at the tuning (the only time the driver is "loaded"). Your speaker cone naturally wants to wang back and forth at the resonant frequency determined in the T/S parameters. That's why you get really loud bass when you tune to the Fs, because your speaker wants to fling the cone everywhere, but your box is doing the most to keep it in place. 6.5" "subwoofers" are actually all "mid bass drivers" (for the most part). Who really wants to tune a subwoofer at 60Hz?
@@RobertJeffersonBased check out MBE Enclosures. That guy is a monster with 8's and 6.5's. He gets 6.5's to hit low. The more I dug into WiniSD I figured out where my problem is with my Skar 6.5. I'm over powering the sub in that environment. My sub doesn't unload at all above tuning frequency. I've boosted all the frequencies above tune with the dsp. The sub plays them fine. The sub starts to bottom out as soon as I get below 47hz and WiniSD confirms my excursion goes past the subs xmax at that or around that frequency. I appreciate your input though.
@@focusforlife WinISD has a TL mode? Must have updated since I last used it. I would hope 47hz is above your tuning frequency and not below it for a subwoofer!
@meekenzzii- To limit X Max from low freq., just turn up your subsonic filter, on your amplifier, if it has 1? Its usually between (10Hz to 50Hz) on most amps. Just turn up the subsonic filters freq. Limiter, on that super low freq. Song you played, until your woofer stops making weird noises. Also there is something most people call it impedance rise. Its really just how a speakers impedance changes per freq., it plays. Like you are wired to 1 ohm, @ rest=not while music is playing. But as the woofer is playing, its normal to have 2x to 6x the wired to impedance= much less power than you think is really going to your speakers. Your 1 ohm woofer is prob. seeing a 2 ohm to 6 ohm load while playing= 2 ohm, to 6 ohm power from your amp. So yes this 3 cu. Ft. Sealed box is way too big for that 1-10", but its perfect for 3-10" sealed. I would just make 3-10" holes up top, (block off the current hole, as having the woofers on the same baffle is better), then flip the box backwards with the 3-10" sealed facing the way you have now. They should perform how you like, much better then now.
If you are going to use plywood, make sure to use high grade glue and better caulking and polyurethane inside the box to fully seal it. I still say use mdf for best results.
With that large box you get max bass extension excursion but less power handling and control a box between min and max sq ft will give you the best performance
i was where u are a few years ago, all i can say man is if u like fucking with things endlessly start building high ratio 4th order boxes, small sealed, large ported section. i built one for my home audio setup and it is tuned around 18 hz, i have a single cheap polk audio 10 in it, as someone else said loudspeaker cookbook, and old magazines and interviews from old school spl competitors they used alot of old school tricks to get dbs instead of insane power and extreme subwoofers. i got to say by the way try using mdf on your next box they always seam to be twice as dead compared to birch
Birch and every plywood (basically) has a much higher natural tone/ring to it because of the high weight for a given volume (density) of MDF compared to plywood. The way to combat the problem is with bracing everywhere
Ported boxes have more "back pressure" when playing above Fb than a sealed box. The reason this works for SQ is because it's close to infinite baffle. "If it's flat and it sounds like shit..." Also, don't say fuck every 10 seconds.
Already knew you were going to bottom out those subs when you said 3 cuft. I've ran those subs before and they are just not very good subs. Most 10s sealed want around .5 cuft sealed when you go larger the bottom end range does extend but cone control gets worse the bigger the box. Need a high XMAX low FS sub made for sealed boxes. With that box you have now you can still use it. Get a better 12 inch sub and use it as a 4th order. Sealed side would be around 1.2 cuft and ported 1.8 for most subs. Would be a flatter response. If you want a box that is boomy on the low end go with a 10 that's designed for really low bass like a sundown X. It likes .4 cuft on sealed side and 2.4 on ported side. That will give ya around a 6:1 ratio. It will be really loud in your ported frequency range. Won't be a flat response at all. If you want flat go with a bigger sub or fiddle with a 6th order. But that sub is a limitation. Ive had several of em.
Its cause the box is too big no back pressure you could fit three tens or two twelves in a box that big or make it a bandpass box cause it will give you the most output for the power your running also run thick speaker wire cause thats a long run for a sub wired to one ohm
I've got a 3.5 cube box built for my element tuned to 34hz 6" aero port. 4 8's, it gets down. Also, you mentioned mid bass.... I'm using the stock 6.5" sub for mid bass. Get a dsp, change your life.
you are absolutely wrong sealed boxes are best for subwoofers for control and the thang you failed to realize is a larger box means less power handling and same thing with a ported box also cool video and all but if you have no clear idea what your talking about then dont mention it because thats not how that works a sealed box is best for a sub woofer thats designed to use that style of box but your box is far two large for any 10 out there hell that would be a prefect box for 12 s ported sooo ps i build boxs my self and i have reconned and rebuilt subs my selfs hell im in the process of building a custom 18 form a hcca motor so i mean you'll learn but its gonna take you a while
@@mekenziiiiiii your good and if you need a box design let me know i can trough one together for you no charge because i like to help small channels out
@fxgamer-11yt 3 cubic feet isn't necessarily to big for any 10 out there. Depends on the ts parameters of the sub. My current 12 recommended net volume for a ported box is 3 cubic feet for one sub. The box I built for the sub is over three feet and has significantly more port area than the kicker recommended port area. It does a 146db on music. Doesn't unload with doors closed,doors open, hatch open, at full power, ect. Remember the manufacturers recommendations are exactly that. A recommendation. They know it's a safe place for people that don't know what they're doing that will perform well. My brothers single 18 box designed specifically for the sub and vehicle by the sub manufacturer is over 8 cubic feet net.
@@SG-Cichlids yes it is ts specs dont mean much in box size if theres no back pressure it will change as the box get smaller or larger and there's a point where a box get two large for a woofer to produce positive pressure hence why i siad no 10 will take a 3cbft box not even high power high excursion woofer will trust me i have an 10 inch hcca and its suggested box size is 3 cbft sealed or ported and trust me that is false the woofer legit dont need that big of a box i have my 10 in a 1.45 cbft box after displacement and can tell you anything bigger isnt worth it because the coil legit smack the back plate at 1500 watts rms and my sub is ratted at 2k in 1.45 cbft ime feeding it off a audio pipe apcl3k and it fine no 10 takes 3 cbft maybe 2 if your lucky now i have a 12 that can play fine in a 3 cbft box its a bcd4 12 it wants 3 cbft and plays fine lack luster on the higher 40 notes and up but no i disagree i have yet to have a sub of that size need 3cbft and not have issues
@@SG-Cichlids also i build subs and amps and have a the equipment to test where talking 1000s of dollars of equipment to test for ts specs and before you say Dayton has a a tool its ass i started with one there not that accurate there get you in the ball park but there not 100% there closer to like 85%
3 cubic foot. Good for two 10" even that's on the big side or one 12" Most subs will give recommended box size because different subs even if the size are the same will require different box size.
I demolished the whole block when I put a power acoustik sub in a 8 cube box. I'm guessing it was 8 cubes, the chamber volume was 4.7 cu ft and the port was 5x20" 7 feet long. Lol. Some kind of stubbed T-line I guess. It was nasty
kicker's specs are very weird. other manufacturers dont say 200watt rms x2, they simply would say 400 watt rms lol. always use all 4 terminals on a dual coil...
The first mistake you did was make it a sealed box especially at 3 cubes but you can make that box work really good on the lows if you port it but the efficiency of the subwoofer will go down witch means you wont be able to run alot of power to the sub but it depends on what you like i like to tune my boxs low so i would have made the 3 cubic ft box and areo port the box at 19 hz and try to run the subwoofer at 4 ohms if it is possible depending on rms of the amp at 4 ohm if not 1 ohm are whatever ohm you can run you setup and you will be hitting Gucci mane and young jezzy lows wont be as loud as a spl box at a higher frequency like 30s to 60 hz but you play way lower and i think it sounds better i learned that i dont really care how loud it is i care more about how low it can get i had to jensen 10s the old ones not the new ones in a 4 cubic ft box tuned to 19 hz with a 300 watt bazooka amp and people thought i had 2 15s and i was hitting lows that people said i wasn't gonna be able to hear because they to low of frequency now i know people are gonna say will a ported 3 cubic ft box is to big for a single 10 inch kicker but that kicker cvr is the older model witch robot underground said that magnet is the same as the L series magnet and kicker subwoofers love big boxes plus the bigger the cubic ft of the box the bigger you can make the port diameter depending on the length of the port but thats up to you
Recently I did a box with 2 10s, ~6.3 cubes, tuned to like 23ish hz. Went down well to 18hz, about 138db @ 21hz with 190w total. Accidentally did ~139-140db when i sent 400w total, guessing the drivers are around 100w rms each, havent been able to bottom them out
I've got it at one ohm, there's no way anything else would sound good. Actually 2 ohms or more sound better. Ported enclosure act exactly like a sealed box above tuning unless you have to small of a port. Then it acts like a leaky sealed box.
@@SG-Cichlids by sounding good i meant spl wise, running two ohms i would only get maybe 200w max, next box i do ill try running it at 2 ohms, i didnt know that about ported boxes. i have a ported box as well might make a video on it, but im just not a fan of its delay. i know a proper box wouldnt have that problem but im still a noob.
@@mekenziiiiiiiif you don't know stuff, don't make videos about it. Use a modeling program like winisd to model the sub as opposed to just taking a random websites word.. Did you even check kickers site?
Hey bro, great video. I did the same thing that you did but I didn't have the app I just had the numbers from my subwoofer CT sounds strato 10 D2 I made my own box with a 4-in port 17 1/2 Inside the Box .. L26/W12 1/2/H13 my first box am I subwoofer is pounding
I built a 12 cu ft box, for an original Cerwin Vega Stroker 15 D2. That's a Dual Voice coil, 2 ohm, 30+lb, 1600 Watt RMS Beast, from back in the day. I've owned a lot of those & regretted getting rid of them every time. Put that box in my ex's POS Nissan Sentra (back seat taken out). It bounced it off the floor over an inch & weighed over 100lbs;)
My buddy gave me a set of these exact same speakers the 10 inch kicker Comp CVR and they had spider sag so bad that you couldn't even play them they just flopped back and forth
I wouldn't say sealed is harder on sub,if it was in correct volume,around 1cf,it would have better control and power handling,but u give up efficiency and low end extension.sealed these days are only used in tight spaces,I still prefer the overall sound of sealed,just takes more power and more subs,mo $$$$😂😂😂
@@remisouth5695 what extra cost of a ported box? When you are making the box, you can just cut a little bit more wood for a port compared to a sealed box
3k views I 11 days. That's impressive. Yes RobotUnderground. I view his channel as well. I just listened to your entire video. Not bad. I did cringe when you stated you wanted SQ. And didn't care if it was flat, as long as it sounds good!"....then you proceed to CRANK UP the volume to SPL levels. Then you did mention more subs. That's the ticket! If you want SQ "get more drivers"! So many people who are learning want 1 sub to do it all. That's why I initially cringed. Focus on this sort of video making. 3k views is impressive!
@@frankmaggio4328 im pretty surprised myself for how low quality and uninformed the video really is, most of what i do is on a very tight budget, maybe ill do a video of a 12 and two tens because thats all i got and shove it in this box!
I agree but this sub isn't gonna produce that much pressure to worry about that, I had half inch plywood for 2 500rms 10s and it was fine, I'm doing 3/4 mdf for my next build 😉
Idk if anyone else heard this guy well super technician if u run a petted box it adds another subwoofer???😅😅 also the dude is clearly wrong if u know the hertz tune it to that and then dbl the power in a sealed only that will simulate as is ur were in a ported I literally have 2 slat 6.5 woofers in a 1cu ft box and those hit way lower then your ten that ten hits to just needs to be tuned.
My buddy gave me a set of these exact same speakers the 10 inch kicker Comp CVR and they had spider sag so bad that you couldn't even play them they just flopped back and forth
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Great video! The video seems to throw out the sealed speakers as an ideal build, but here's a few pros to mention about sealed enclosures for a different perspective:
1) When choosing ported or sealed, you actually need less cubic ft for sealed. The advantage of building a sealed enclosure is being able to play in a lower range of frequencies versus ported. Sealed is great if you are very limited on space. At 3 cubic feet for this enclosure how low is it playing frequency wise? I would think frequencies the sealed box plays would be significantly lower than 34hz. If it's not, I would suspect the plywood is a culprit. To keep the true lower frequency response, the box cannot flex at all or have any air gaps. (MDF is highly suggested) The bass overall wont be as loud in a sealed box.
2) While you can build a port and tune it to a low frequency, you generally will need more cubic feet for the ported enclosure so the port can properly work, AND your response curve will end up with a peak at the tuned frequency.
3) It takes more power to make the same level of loudness in a sealed versus a ported enclosure. Many people will overpower the sub quicker and easier trying to get it loud. It's the exceeding of the XMax that causes the jack hammering, NOT the sealed enclosure. A higher rated speaker with more XMax and or more dampening and other factors along with a bigger amp is one way to fix this issue without going to ported and be able to get louder. Yes it's the less efficient route, but it preserves sound quality.
4) More excursion occurs in a ported versus a sealed. In a ported box, going below the tuning frequency can cause Xmax to be exceeded the lower you go in frequency, and thus cause damage.
5) Sealed provides much better control of the speaker. This is crucial if you are doing sound quality.
I've run into the same problem with a 6.5 Skar in a transmission line box. From my searching around, I've found that when you try to play to low with a sub that's not capable of playing that low the sub looses cone control and makes that bottoming out noise. Someone said to limit your sub sonic filter and you wont have that problem. I love that you built a box that big for that thing.
6.5" subs have too much motor force and too little cone area mixed in with an Fs that's way to high to play that low. The cone will lose control every time. If you have a T line that is at all appropriately sized, then you'll more than likely find that your speaker is actually "unloading" and over-excursion ABOVE the tuning, not at the tuning (the only time the driver is "loaded"). Your speaker cone naturally wants to wang back and forth at the resonant frequency determined in the T/S parameters. That's why you get really loud bass when you tune to the Fs, because your speaker wants to fling the cone everywhere, but your box is doing the most to keep it in place.
6.5" "subwoofers" are actually all "mid bass drivers" (for the most part). Who really wants to tune a subwoofer at 60Hz?
@@RobertJeffersonBased check out MBE Enclosures. That guy is a monster with 8's and 6.5's. He gets 6.5's to hit low. The more I dug into WiniSD I figured out where my problem is with my Skar 6.5. I'm over powering the sub in that environment. My sub doesn't unload at all above tuning frequency. I've boosted all the frequencies above tune with the dsp. The sub plays them fine. The sub starts to bottom out as soon as I get below 47hz and WiniSD confirms my excursion goes past the subs xmax at that or around that frequency. I appreciate your input though.
@@focusforlife WinISD has a TL mode? Must have updated since I last used it.
I would hope 47hz is above your tuning frequency and not below it for a subwoofer!
@meekenzzii- To limit X Max from low freq., just turn up your subsonic filter, on your amplifier, if it has 1? Its usually between (10Hz to 50Hz) on most amps. Just turn up the subsonic filters freq. Limiter, on that super low freq. Song you played, until your woofer stops making weird noises. Also there is something most people call it impedance rise. Its really just how a speakers impedance changes per freq., it plays. Like you are wired to 1 ohm, @ rest=not while music is playing. But as the woofer is playing, its normal to have 2x to 6x the wired to impedance= much less power than you think is really going to your speakers. Your 1 ohm woofer is prob. seeing a 2 ohm to 6 ohm load while playing= 2 ohm, to 6 ohm power from your amp. So yes this 3 cu. Ft. Sealed box is way too big for that 1-10", but its perfect for 3-10" sealed. I would just make 3-10" holes up top, (block off the current hole, as having the woofers on the same baffle is better), then flip the box backwards with the 3-10" sealed facing the way you have now. They should perform how you like, much better then now.
If you are going to use plywood, make sure to use high grade glue and better caulking and polyurethane inside the box to fully seal it. I still say use mdf for best results.
Loctite PL 3x is more than good enough. 1-2 tubes for most average and even pretty large boxes
With that large box you get max bass extension excursion but less power handling and control a box between min and max sq ft will give you the best performance
i was where u are a few years ago, all i can say man is if u like fucking with things endlessly start building high ratio 4th order boxes, small sealed, large ported section. i built one for my home audio setup and it is tuned around 18 hz, i have a single cheap polk audio 10 in it, as someone else said loudspeaker cookbook, and old magazines and interviews from old school spl competitors they used alot of old school tricks to get dbs instead of insane power and extreme subwoofers. i got to say by the way try using mdf on your next box they always seam to be twice as dead compared to birch
Birch and every plywood (basically) has a much higher natural tone/ring to it because of the high weight for a given volume (density) of MDF compared to plywood. The way to combat the problem is with bracing everywhere
Loudspeaker design cookbook. Get you one and read.
Ty
@@danielgresham5082 I second that read the loudspeaker cookbook
You're just about 75% to 85% wrong on everything you said
the young bass head lol , I've put a 100 watt 15 in a 8 cube sealed Box for home theater and it sounded amazing
Came here to say this
That's how you get the views!
@@annihilationindustries1990 That's because infinite baffle is awesome :D
Man put two more 10’s on same plan of that box. And enjoy.
@@bugg5011 was thinking that as soon as i made it but don't have enough power, or subs lol
@mekenziiiiiii I run 3 12s in parallel down to 1.33 ohms on a jensen 1200w amp and it bumbs hard
Ported boxes have more "back pressure" when playing above Fb than a sealed box.
The reason this works for SQ is because it's close to infinite baffle.
"If it's flat and it sounds like shit..."
Also, don't say fuck every 10 seconds.
Sealed boxes are for like drum kick Puchy songs
Already knew you were going to bottom out those subs when you said 3 cuft. I've ran those subs before and they are just not very good subs. Most 10s sealed want around .5 cuft sealed when you go larger the bottom end range does extend but cone control gets worse the bigger the box. Need a high XMAX low FS sub made for sealed boxes.
With that box you have now you can still use it. Get a better 12 inch sub and use it as a 4th order. Sealed side would be around 1.2 cuft and ported 1.8 for most subs. Would be a flatter response. If you want a box that is boomy on the low end go with a 10 that's designed for really low bass like a sundown X. It likes .4 cuft on sealed side and 2.4 on ported side. That will give ya around a 6:1 ratio. It will be really loud in your ported frequency range. Won't be a flat response at all. If you want flat go with a bigger sub or fiddle with a 6th order. But that sub is a limitation. Ive had several of em.
That noise is your speaker over excursion, a correct size box that’s sealed wouldn’t do that, do your research
You should have a really low FS with a box that big like 24 hurts or something ridiculous
Its cause the box is too big no back pressure you could fit three tens or two twelves in a box that big or make it a bandpass box cause it will give you the most output for the power your running also run thick speaker wire cause thats a long run for a sub wired to one ohm
Only need half power for ported it will make sense way later in ur journey my friend
I have a Alpine Type X 10 on in a almost 3 cube box in the back of a 2020 mustang ported to 30 hz and on 1200 rms its PLENTY loud for a small coupe.
I've got a 3.5 cube box built for my element tuned to 34hz 6" aero port. 4 8's, it gets down. Also, you mentioned mid bass.... I'm using the stock 6.5" sub for mid bass. Get a dsp, change your life.
you are absolutely wrong sealed boxes are best for subwoofers for control and the thang you failed to realize is a larger box means less power handling and same thing with a ported box also cool video and all but if you have no clear idea what your talking about then dont mention it because thats not how that works a sealed box is best for a sub woofer thats designed to use that style of box but your box is far two large for any 10 out there hell that would be a prefect box for 12 s ported sooo ps i build boxs my self and i have reconned and rebuilt subs my selfs hell im in the process of building a custom 18 form a hcca motor so i mean you'll learn but its gonna take you a while
@@fxgamer-11yt check out my other video 👍 i admit i was wrong, video is just for fun i have a lot of learning/reading to do
@@mekenziiiiiii your good and if you need a box design let me know i can trough one together for you no charge because i like to help small channels out
@fxgamer-11yt 3 cubic feet isn't necessarily to big for any 10 out there. Depends on the ts parameters of the sub. My current 12 recommended net volume for a ported box is 3 cubic feet for one sub. The box I built for the sub is over three feet and has significantly more port area than the kicker recommended port area. It does a 146db on music. Doesn't unload with doors closed,doors open, hatch open, at full power, ect. Remember the manufacturers recommendations are exactly that. A recommendation. They know it's a safe place for people that don't know what they're doing that will perform well. My brothers single 18 box designed specifically for the sub and vehicle by the sub manufacturer is over 8 cubic feet net.
@@SG-Cichlids yes it is ts specs dont mean much in box size if theres no back pressure it will change as the box get smaller or larger and there's a point where a box get two large for a woofer to produce positive pressure hence why i siad no 10 will take a 3cbft box not even high power high excursion woofer will trust me i have an 10 inch hcca and its suggested box size is 3 cbft sealed or ported and trust me that is false the woofer legit dont need that big of a box i have my 10 in a 1.45 cbft box after displacement and can tell you anything bigger isnt worth it because the coil legit smack the back plate at 1500 watts rms and my sub is ratted at 2k in 1.45 cbft ime feeding it off a audio pipe apcl3k and it fine no 10 takes 3 cbft maybe 2 if your lucky now i have a 12 that can play fine in a 3 cbft box its a bcd4 12 it wants 3 cbft and plays fine lack luster on the higher 40 notes and up but no i disagree i have yet to have a sub of that size need 3cbft and not have issues
@@SG-Cichlids also i build subs and amps and have a the equipment to test where talking 1000s of dollars of equipment to test for ts specs and before you say Dayton has a a tool its ass i started with one there not that accurate there get you in the ball park but there not 100% there closer to like 85%
1-1/4 floor decking is what I used. Waterproof(ish) and strong af!
with one ten that size box deff port it use just a piece of pvc round edges good and bam sound like 2 tens
Port it with a 3 or 4 inch pvc pipe, see how that works
Unless you flare the ends it will whistle with either of those sizes
Port it to 30hz. Cubes. That will be epic.
with 3 cubes you could probably aero port it near the mid 20's.
I had an alpine type r 15 in a 3.5ft² in the back of an element and it slammed. That stupid wire mesh on the overhead box got annoying.
3 cubic foot. Good for two 10" even that's on the big side or one 12" Most subs will give recommended box size because different subs even if the size are the same will require different box size.
I demolished the whole block when I put a power acoustik sub in a 8 cube box. I'm guessing it was 8 cubes, the chamber volume was 4.7 cu ft and the port was 5x20" 7 feet long. Lol. Some kind of stubbed T-line I guess. It was nasty
Hahaha! Shout out to the Element! I built my box into the wheel well.
kicker's specs are very weird. other manufacturers dont say 200watt rms x2, they simply would say 400 watt rms lol. always use all 4 terminals on a dual coil...
The first mistake you did was make it a sealed box especially at 3 cubes but you can make that box work really good on the lows if you port it but the efficiency of the subwoofer will go down witch means you wont be able to run alot of power to the sub but it depends on what you like i like to tune my boxs low so i would have made the 3 cubic ft box and areo port the box at 19 hz and try to run the subwoofer at 4 ohms if it is possible depending on rms of the amp at 4 ohm if not 1 ohm are whatever ohm you can run you setup and you will be hitting Gucci mane and young jezzy lows wont be as loud as a spl box at a higher frequency like 30s to 60 hz but you play way lower and i think it sounds better i learned that i dont really care how loud it is i care more about how low it can get i had to jensen 10s the old ones not the new ones in a 4 cubic ft box tuned to 19 hz with a 300 watt bazooka amp and people thought i had 2 15s and i was hitting lows that people said i wasn't gonna be able to hear because they to low of frequency now i know people are gonna say will a ported 3 cubic ft box is to big for a single 10 inch kicker but that kicker cvr is the older model witch robot underground said that magnet is the same as the L series magnet and kicker subwoofers love big boxes plus the bigger the cubic ft of the box the bigger you can make the port diameter depending on the length of the port but thats up to you
Recently I did a box with 2 10s, ~6.3 cubes, tuned to like 23ish hz. Went down well to 18hz, about 138db @ 21hz with 190w total.
Accidentally did ~139-140db when i sent 400w total, guessing the drivers are around 100w rms each, havent been able to bottom them out
I have always wanted to do that. Specially with the Dayto Audio 10 inch woofer they have it says 4 cubic feet max.
6:37 having your hand right in front of the song name and artist is like the #1 car audio video sin lol
Smh, open that thing up and add a slot. You're overworking that driver. Let us know when your speaker starts to grind.
I've got it at one ohm, there's no way anything else would sound good. Actually 2 ohms or more sound better. Ported enclosure act exactly like a sealed box above tuning unless you have to small of a port. Then it acts like a leaky sealed box.
@@SG-Cichlids by sounding good i meant spl wise, running two ohms i would only get maybe 200w max, next box i do ill try running it at 2 ohms, i didnt know that about ported boxes. i have a ported box as well might make a video on it, but im just not a fan of its delay. i know a proper box wouldnt have that problem but im still a noob.
@@mekenziiiiiiiif you don't know stuff, don't make videos about it.
Use a modeling program like winisd to model the sub as opposed to just taking a random websites word.. Did you even check kickers site?
Hey bro, great video. I did the same thing that you did but I didn't have the app I just had the numbers from my subwoofer CT sounds strato 10 D2 I made my own box with a 4-in port 17 1/2 Inside the Box .. L26/W12 1/2/H13 my first box am I subwoofer is pounding
What's the specs on the largest SPL box for that single sub?.. I did the SPL box to a kicker solo x10 and it was 6 cubic feet....😊
@@realciscomontano5191 i believe 1.75 cuf ported, might be my next box build stat tuned👍
@@realciscomontano5191 was that the old solo x or the new? The recommended ported enclosure volume for the new solox for a 12 is 3 cubic feet.
I built a 12 cu ft box, for an original Cerwin Vega Stroker 15 D2. That's a Dual Voice coil, 2 ohm, 30+lb, 1600 Watt RMS Beast, from back in the day. I've owned a lot of those & regretted getting rid of them every time.
Put that box in my ex's POS Nissan Sentra (back seat taken out). It bounced it off the floor over an inch & weighed over 100lbs;)
My buddy gave me a set of these exact same speakers the 10 inch kicker Comp CVR and they had spider sag so bad that you couldn't even play them they just flopped back and forth
I have a Tang Band w6-2100 in a 4 something cubic foot box tuned to 17 hz
Keep the content coming bro 🤙
You need to read on infinite baffle. It's usually 2x VAS...
I wouldn't say sealed is harder on sub,if it was in correct volume,around 1cf,it would have better control and power handling,but u give up efficiency and low end extension.sealed these days are only used in tight spaces,I still prefer the overall sound of sealed,just takes more power and more subs,mo $$$$😂😂😂
by the time you pay the extra cost of a port box you could put that toward more power
@@remisouth5695 what extra cost of a ported box? When you are making the box, you can just cut a little bit more wood for a port compared to a sealed box
Put a real subwoofer in the box and you will be impressed
That's not true about sealed and ported box
3k views I 11 days. That's impressive.
Yes RobotUnderground. I view his channel as well.
I just listened to your entire video.
Not bad.
I did cringe when you stated you wanted SQ. And didn't care if it was flat, as long as it sounds good!"....then you proceed to CRANK UP the volume to SPL levels.
Then you did mention more subs. That's the ticket! If you want SQ "get more drivers"!
So many people who are learning want 1 sub to do it all. That's why I initially cringed.
Focus on this sort of video making. 3k views is impressive!
This phone sucks!!!!! I can't edit my typos!!!
@@frankmaggio4328 im pretty surprised myself for how low quality and uninformed the video really is, most of what i do is on a very tight budget, maybe ill do a video of a 12 and two tens because thats all i got and shove it in this box!
quit using plywood for sub boxes. MDF not particle board. Plywood is porous and flexes too much.
I agree but this sub isn't gonna produce that much pressure to worry about that, I had half inch plywood for 2 500rms 10s and it was fine, I'm doing 3/4 mdf for my next build 😉
The bigger your sealed box the lower the fs of the sub will be and the lower the sub will be able to play again the bigger the sealed box
What was that second song called ?
deep by summer walker
Keep going bro :)
Best way I got a 12 in 4
Idk if anyone else heard this guy well super technician if u run a petted box it adds another subwoofer???😅😅 also the dude is clearly wrong if u know the hertz tune it to that and then dbl the power in a sealed only that will simulate as is ur were in a ported I literally have 2 slat 6.5 woofers in a 1cu ft box and those hit way lower then your ten that ten hits to just needs to be tuned.
Use subsonic
so you build a big a$$ box for SQ then you wire it to 1Ohm.... you should know higher the Ohm higher the SQ, so SQ 4ohms load
Do people understand what the WORD CUBED MEANS .... 3 cubic feet is 3x3x3....not 3x1x1....
@@carlnakiacunningham73 multiply length, width, and height to calculate cubic feet. 3x1x1 is 3. the box is 3 cubic feet
Ummmm…. Anyone want to tell that dude that a 3x3x3 box is actually 27 cubes??? Stay in school kids.
your wrong, physics/ physicists use 3 cube = in car stereo 3 cube = 3 cubic feet, using your method (3 feet)^3 = 27 cubic feet, which is wrong
@@mekenziiiiiiiyour correct!!❤😂❤😂🎉
@lunam7249 I'm agreeing with you....I'm just saying .....stop telling these people the wrong made up terminology and giving the wrong equations
Next video... Porting a subwoofer box!
My buddy gave me a set of these exact same speakers the 10 inch kicker Comp CVR and they had spider sag so bad that you couldn't even play them they just flopped back and forth
Sounds like your describing a set of Triple D breasts, without a Bra, hanging down past the waist, while jogging😁😆