When you're starting DIY welding, it's pretty fun to go the metal supplier because they have a ton of stuff a normal human doesn't know about :-) Professional video again!
@@erikslagter3231 this is true. Am a hobbiest and anytime I walks into IMS (industrial metal supermarket) really Blows my mind some of the things I see
@@michaeldalton8374 Wow. Thanks for putting some numbers onto that! I don’t do this very often right now but I have a couple projects coming up. I was figuring that I might be able to save a bit of money, but if my local suppliers are that much cheaper it’ll be a game changer. There’s stuff that I just wouldn’t bother doing at $34/3’.
Try the scrap yard ! Even cheaper than supplier but of course not the same choice or quality! I’ve been buying thick 2.5-3” angle recently though for 25-30cents per pound. Today I got 24 feet of 2.5 “ 1/4” thick angle for $23. I found it as three pieces about 8 feet each, all straight with some rust that can be cleaned off with a wire wheel or flap disc.
I've bought those hardware store 3' pieces a few times. A few days ago I had something large to build and went to a metal supply place prepared to spend a few hundred dollars based on what I'd paid at the hardware store, when she said $72 for everything I about kicked myself for ever buying a 3 footer.
Have a means of carrying full lengths and save on cutting charges, the left overs go into your ever growing metal invo. metal is a commodity and usually goes up in price, so it never really goes to waste, need 20' of 1/4 hot rolled round rod get 40' it's not that expensive and you most likely will find a use (build up your always on hand inventory). If you can get a hold of metal catalogs (print and even old ones ) from different manufacturers, it has all the difference shapes and specs, faster than scrolling thru web pages. Be on the lookout for drop off's and scrap bin's some deals to be found, also scrap yards are tressure troves of brass, aluminum and other recycled metals . Great video 😉👍
At work I am a metal scrap gremlin and I stash scrap under my table or in a corner when it's something uncommon but I know we'll see again, even have an organized drawer for 4 inch or shorter pieces of stainless and aluminum angle and bar because someone always needs a practice piece to test settings or a sliver to bridge a gap
Stopping by to say awesome job! This video was great and it’s certainly something that isn’t covered very well in the realm of welding TH-cam. I actually sent this so my students this morning as a virtual day assignment accompanied by several questions pertaining to the video. Once again great job!
"I" beams are specified by their approximate depth and weight per foot ex: W14X28 = approx depth of 14" and weight of 28#/ft. There are 3 main types of "I" beam sections available which are W (wide flange), S (standard), and M (Misc). W shapes are the most commonly used type today. If you need the actual nominal dimensions of an I beam (or any other structural steel section) a copy of the AISC Steel Construction manual has these readily available in part 1 table 1-1. Also note that C channels and Tees are specified in the same manner.
Hi, if you have time, you could make a video with a practical example of How to make a good Bom, say for a simple frame or welding table. With tips on how to plan the cuts on the material to avoid waste and similar smart things you gain with experience. Thanks a lot for your videos. Happy new year, Sart0
Man...Mom& pops salvage yards are AWESOME i was getting HUGE aluminum signs that i made hard tops & bed covers/toppers for truck beds with for pennies compared to suppliers!!!
Most true steel suppliers have tons of "drops" that you mentioned, and I buy them all the time and stock up because an out of town group bought the local steel dealer and now you are required to buy half a stick or they won't cut it. If you need something special order they don't stock it comes overnight, but you have to buy it all, 20ft minimum. I needed about 2 feet of 4 inch cold roll really bad not long ago. Long story short I had to spend about 1,800 bucks and now I have 18 feet of 4 inch cold roll I will probably never use. Thats an expense you just eat and can't pass on really. Its not so bad though if you will use it in the future. The new way of business at Wilkes Steel has ruined it for most average people. ......And most of this can be bought 40 feet as well. Some really big stuff 50 feet and up.
Some other topics to include, consider. Hot rolled vs cold rolled vs ground stock for bar and plate. Formability of non ferrous alloys. When you were going through c channel dimensions the 'depth' is the flange and the web connects the two flanges. Seemed like a little slip up but good to use the correct language for an educational video like this.
Then there is the distinction between hot and cold rolled steel, both when buying and when fabricating. Cold rolled is dimensionally more accurate. Hot roll will have mill scale that may have to be removed for welding. Tubing and cold roll will distort (bend) when cut lengthwise due to internal stresses. Seamless tubing is needed to slide another tube inside it. DOM tubing (drawn over mandrel) is precise and expensive. Don't forget the alloy, either. The list goes on and on and on...
Absolutely fantastic video explained ready well I understand it all better now thankyou👍👍 have a great new year and look forward to more videos to come
Those in the Denver area should check out altitude steel. It’s across I25 from Mile high stadium. Amazing drop section and killer prices on the drops, the more you buy the cheaper it gets. One of the few things I miss about my 20 years of living in Denver.
such a great video n info! i didnt realize till i watch this how much the internet, youtube, n people needed a video like this, sometimes we the people think that because we know something that everyone knows it, but thats far from the truth;)
Pretty good explanation, I wish I could make every new guy watch this cause it can be confusing when you start in the industry . Only other thing I think you could have touched on was grades and hot vs cold roll but other wise right on .
My local metal supply store here in jax FL I like is Alro metals. They're still pricy but better than any box store. I'm always like a kid in a candy store there.
Aaahhhh...I used to work out of 199 up there (Boilermakers) and all the supply places in Jax were great. I went to 808 in Orlando after that for quite a while & there are some great places there too.
Get a book and study it will tell you everything you need to know. all shapes and sizes it's sold by the lbs per foot. Shops that sell steel only is the places to go, they will give you a book.
Hot rolled is typically grades 1008-1010 and has a thin layer of pure blue/black carbon on the surface. HRPO Hot rolled Pickled N Oiled is Hot Roll with an acid bath to remove surface carbon. Cold Rolled is typically 1018 Grade, goes thru the acid bath and then is finally Cold Rolled to it's final accurate dimensions. Contact your nearest supplier for availability.
@@dagrind8710totally. I have a tank of 75/25 and the tank of pure argon. I just bought one of those cheap dual pulse welders and it needs 90/10. I was quoted $500 for a tank and fill. That's the some insane$$ for some shielding gas that I'll use a couple times!
What do you use to catch the shavings from that Evolution in the background? I have the same saw and the built in tray doesn't catch but about half. Especially on bigger metal. I always drag mine down in the middle of my shop floor. But they are freakin heavy!
Excellent topic for a video. It is confusing as hell when you are new to welding and all of the stores are kind of random and not nearly as standardized as it is for lumber. Tons of people make videos about the welding techniques but drafting and quoting and picking up parts on the BOM is a completely neglected topic.
Keep in mind that some metal suppliers cater to smaller orders and have drops available but some places cater to larger orders and won't sell you anything without a $400 or $500 order and require an account set up, these places also give you better deals the more you spend, if you are buying under $1,000 every piece will cost far more than if you are buying $15,000 worth of metal while the suppliers that cater to smaller project orders will give discounts for larger orders but not a huge one. There are online metal suppliers that cater to small orders but keep in mind that shipping is not cheap especially on longer pieces, sometimes still worth it if you don't have a supplier in your area, E-Bay is another place that has some good deals but some bad ones too, don't be afraid to get quotes from different places because prices do greatly vary from one place to another.
There are different I beams…. S beam H beam and W beam they go by height and weight per foot. W beam example-W8x21 is wide flange 8” tall beam that weights 21 lbs per foot. S beam is standard beam S8x21. There is a chart that will tell you actual outside dimensions your metal supply should be able to supply it to you.
Any comments from people buying drop zone metal and pricing? I found some good drop zone stuff at a local place, they charge $1 per pound.. is that high or average?
@malbrandow7382: Sorry, but comment is incorrect. Tube is available both with a seam, or seamless. Pipe is also available with a seam, or seamless. Which you choose is largely dependent on it's intended use, and your budget. Eg: If building a Roll cage, almost all will be built using seamless. Costs more, but is more likely to protect the driver in a crash. Process piping can be either, but again, depends on the product going through the pipe, as well as the operating pressure of the line........
When you're starting DIY welding, it's pretty fun to go the metal supplier because they have a ton of stuff a normal human doesn't know about :-) Professional video again!
@@erikslagter3231 this is true. Am a hobbiest and anytime I walks into IMS (industrial metal supermarket) really
Blows my mind some of the things I see
I had a small project. Looked at Lowe’s for flat bar.
3/8” was $34 for 3’ piece.
Same stuff at metal dealer was $10.28 for 20 FEET!
@@michaeldalton8374 Wow. Thanks for putting some numbers onto that! I don’t do this very often right now but I have a couple projects coming up.
I was figuring that I might be able to save a bit of money, but if my local suppliers are that much cheaper it’ll be a game changer. There’s stuff that I just wouldn’t bother doing at $34/3’.
Try the scrap yard ! Even cheaper than supplier but of course not the same choice or quality! I’ve been buying thick 2.5-3” angle recently though for 25-30cents per pound. Today I got 24 feet of 2.5 “ 1/4” thick angle for $23. I found it as three pieces about 8 feet each, all straight with some rust that can be cleaned off with a wire wheel or flap disc.
1/2” metal dowel
Home depot (4’) = $30+
Metal store (5’) = $8
I've bought those hardware store 3' pieces a few times. A few days ago I had something large to build and went to a metal supply place prepared to spend a few hundred dollars based on what I'd paid at the hardware store, when she said $72 for everything I about kicked myself for ever buying a 3 footer.
The dump is a good place to find angle iron as well, old bed frames have a lot of material that can be useful
Have a means of carrying full lengths and save on cutting charges, the left overs go into your ever growing metal invo. metal is a commodity and usually goes up in price, so it never really goes to waste, need 20' of 1/4 hot rolled round rod get 40' it's not that expensive and you most likely will find a use (build up your always on hand inventory). If you can get a hold of metal catalogs (print and even old ones ) from different manufacturers, it has all the difference shapes and specs, faster than scrolling thru web pages. Be on the lookout for drop off's and scrap bin's some deals to be found, also scrap yards are tressure troves of brass, aluminum and other recycled metals . Great video 😉👍
At work I am a metal scrap gremlin and I stash scrap under my table or in a corner when it's something uncommon but I know we'll see again, even have an organized drawer for 4 inch or shorter pieces of stainless and aluminum angle and bar because someone always needs a practice piece to test settings or a sliver to bridge a gap
Stopping by to say awesome job! This video was great and it’s certainly something that isn’t covered very well in the realm of welding TH-cam. I actually sent this so my students this morning as a virtual day assignment accompanied by several questions pertaining to the video. Once again great job!
"I" beams are specified by their approximate depth and weight per foot ex: W14X28 = approx depth of 14" and weight of 28#/ft. There are 3 main types of "I" beam sections available which are W (wide flange), S (standard), and M (Misc). W shapes are the most commonly used type today. If you need the actual nominal dimensions of an I beam (or any other structural steel section) a copy of the AISC Steel Construction manual has these readily available in part 1 table 1-1. Also note that C channels and Tees are specified in the same manner.
Hi, if you have time, you could make a video with a practical example of How to make a good Bom, say for a simple frame or welding table.
With tips on how to plan the cuts on the material to avoid waste and similar smart things you gain with experience.
Thanks a lot for your videos.
Happy new year,
Sart0
Man...Mom& pops salvage yards are AWESOME i was getting HUGE aluminum signs that i made hard tops & bed covers/toppers for truck beds with for pennies compared to suppliers!!!
Most true steel suppliers have tons of "drops" that you mentioned, and I buy them all the time and stock up because an out of town group bought the local steel dealer and now you are required to buy half a stick or they won't cut it. If you need something special order they don't stock it comes overnight, but you have to buy it all, 20ft minimum. I needed about 2 feet of 4 inch cold roll really bad not long ago. Long story short I had to spend about 1,800 bucks and now I have 18 feet of 4 inch cold roll I will probably never use. Thats an expense you just eat and can't pass on really. Its not so bad though if you will use it in the future. The new way of business at Wilkes Steel has ruined it for most average people. ......And most of this can be bought 40 feet as well. Some really big stuff 50 feet and up.
Wished i had this a month ago when i had to gut a metal spiral stair case in a basement and completely re build it. That was fun
Someone has PTSD now...
Some other topics to include, consider. Hot rolled vs cold rolled vs ground stock for bar and plate. Formability of non ferrous alloys. When you were going through c channel dimensions the 'depth' is the flange and the web connects the two flanges. Seemed like a little slip up but good to use the correct language for an educational video like this.
Wow, this is the best video I never knew I needed! Thank you so much!
Then there is the distinction between hot and cold rolled steel, both when buying and when fabricating. Cold rolled is dimensionally more accurate. Hot roll will have mill scale that may have to be removed for welding. Tubing and cold roll will distort (bend) when cut lengthwise due to internal stresses. Seamless tubing is needed to slide another tube inside it. DOM tubing (drawn over mandrel) is precise and expensive. Don't forget the alloy, either. The list goes on and on and on...
Absolutely fantastic video explained ready well I understand it all better now thankyou👍👍 have a great new year and look forward to more videos to come
I got one our local metal superstore website. Cold roll versus hot roll, 🤷♂️. Tube versus pipe 🤷♀️
If only I lived near a place like that.😩
Ha! Metal General is my go-to place as well!!
Those in the Denver area should check out altitude steel. It’s across I25 from Mile high stadium. Amazing drop section and killer prices on the drops, the more you buy the cheaper it gets. One of the few things I miss about my 20 years of living in Denver.
such a great video n info! i didnt realize till i watch this how much the internet, youtube, n people needed a video like this, sometimes we the people think that because we know something that everyone knows it, but thats far from the truth;)
Great information. Thank you, Let it shine *
Pretty good explanation, I wish I could make every new guy watch this cause it can be confusing when you start in the industry . Only other thing I think you could have touched on was grades and hot vs cold roll but other wise right on .
Well, that cleared that right up.
Metal supermarkets has given me a whole lotta " drops " over the years and I am definitely not a big customer for them. Thanks Metal Supermarkets.
Professional!
Great video. I always get confused by expanded metal.
My local metal supply store here in jax FL I like is Alro metals. They're still pricy but better than any box store. I'm always like a kid in a candy store there.
I second Alro, if you have an outlet nearby they are awesome.
Aaahhhh...I used to work out of 199 up there (Boilermakers) and all the supply places in Jax were great. I went to 808 in Orlando after that for quite a while & there are some great places there too.
you should have mentioned tubing with radius vs square corners and how different wall thicknesses means different corner radius.
Get a book and study it will tell you everything you need to know. all shapes and sizes it's sold by the lbs per foot. Shops that sell steel only is the places to go, they will give you a book.
I got some drops of 4x7 tube, 26" long for $3 each at a local fab shop. Online they want about $100 for the same thing.
You ask for C-Channel by it's width and weight per foot 3" x 4.1# is 4.1lbs/ft
depend on budget , i always find the scrapyard a good supplier
what about hot rolled vs. cold rolled ?
Hot rolled is typically grades 1008-1010 and has a thin layer of pure blue/black carbon on the surface. HRPO Hot rolled Pickled N Oiled is Hot Roll with an acid bath to remove surface carbon. Cold Rolled is typically 1018 Grade, goes thru the acid bath and then is finally Cold Rolled to it's final accurate dimensions. Contact your nearest supplier for availability.
My biggest thing is finding shielding gas at a decent price I don’t weld much at all
@@dagrind8710totally. I have a tank of 75/25 and the tank of pure argon. I just bought one of those cheap dual pulse welders and it needs 90/10. I was quoted $500 for a tank and fill. That's the some insane$$ for some shielding gas that I'll use a couple times!
What do you use to catch the shavings from that Evolution in the background? I have the same saw and the built in tray doesn't catch but about half. Especially on bigger metal. I always drag mine down in the middle of my shop floor. But they are freakin heavy!
Great video, yeah stay out of big box diy stores they are super expensive.
Excellent topic for a video. It is confusing as hell when you are new to welding and all of the stores are kind of random and not nearly as standardized as it is for lumber. Tons of people make videos about the welding techniques but drafting and quoting and picking up parts on the BOM is a completely neglected topic.
Keep in mind that some metal suppliers cater to smaller orders and have drops available but some places cater to larger orders and won't sell you anything without a $400 or $500 order and require an account set up, these places also give you better deals the more you spend, if you are buying under $1,000 every piece will cost far more than if you are buying $15,000 worth of metal while the suppliers that cater to smaller project orders will give discounts for larger orders but not a huge one. There are online metal suppliers that cater to small orders but keep in mind that shipping is not cheap especially on longer pieces, sometimes still worth it if you don't have a supplier in your area, E-Bay is another place that has some good deals but some bad ones too, don't be afraid to get quotes from different places because prices do greatly vary from one place to another.
There are different I beams…. S beam H beam and W beam they go by height and weight per foot. W beam example-W8x21 is wide flange 8” tall beam that weights 21 lbs per foot. S beam is standard beam S8x21. There is a chart that will tell you actual outside dimensions your metal supply should be able to supply it to you.
Any comments from people buying drop zone metal and pricing? I found some good drop zone stuff at a local place, they charge $1 per pound.. is that high or average?
if youre a starting diy, look for their scrap bin. they might let you have some for free if you ask.
Pipe is measured by ID and tubing is measured by OD
Pipe up to 12" is by ID, above that it is by OD.
Video idea, dealing with gas supplier. I’ve been renting a bottle and I’d like to purchase one as it’s expensive. Idk how to go about that!
In the UK you can get gas with a one off cylinder rental charge, still don't own the cylinder but it's not costing you every month
I build copper stills
Well its going to be awkward for everyone but this earned you a 1980s baseball style smack on the a$&. Not my rules sorry. Thanks for the video.
❤👀👍
👀👍🇮🇪❤️⚓
Tube is seamless, pipe has a welded seam.
@malbrandow7382: Sorry, but comment is incorrect. Tube is available both with a seam, or seamless. Pipe is also available with a seam, or seamless. Which you choose is largely dependent on it's intended use, and your budget. Eg: If building a Roll cage, almost all will be built using seamless. Costs more, but is more likely to protect the driver in a crash. Process piping can be either, but again, depends on the product going through the pipe, as well as the operating pressure of the line........
Just don't buy gold coloured metal
You mean electro-galvanized? This is a process typically done after mfg.
@nixic_ I know . But people will also buy scrap stuff for weld projects.
Like brass/bronze? Okay