Making this right now and having a blast, thanks for the vid, plans, models and code! For anyone else who hates sanding/polishing, the top of the Torr relays get covered up by the spark boots, so while I'm sure this is very accurate, you don't really need to shape the top bullet-shaped 1/2 tube, and the rounded rod doesn't need to be there at all.
GREAT SCOTT!!! Man that is freaking awesome! I had an idea of building a miniature version and installing it on my ebike just for a bit of a laugh. I cannot believe the detail you put into it, especially when you said you never did this or that before. Far out!
What an amazing project bro! Great work building this replica, you've really motivated me to finally start my own build (so thank you for the 3D files and the parts list as well!). Also, you did a great job editing this video, the whole process was very enjoyable to watch. So props to you, you've earned yourself a new subscriber!
Thank you so much for adding all the links in the description! You don’t know how thankful I am that you took the time, that’s a lot of time and research you did and saved everyone else the time and hassle of finding all that.
Your channel is going to blow up soon once the algorithm pushes this and your other content. I'll binge watch some things next, but I actually want to make one of these for a backdrop in my office for my videos.
Amazing detail, especially considering the unavailability of the original relays, I never saw that much detail watching the movie, so a way simpler build would have tricked me. Actually I have a few glass vials from my wife's insulin pens, they look kind of right for a version of this.
I uploaded my finished fluxcapacitor, with build video to follow. Thanks for your files. I did however have to heavily edit your code. Made quite a few changes. Also had to build my own box as importing 1 was going to cost $1000 just to import. But im quite impressed how it turned out.
AMAZING work!!! Liked, Subscribed, Shared, Saved, Wowed, Watched 3 times, Hit Every link in the description, Offered a case of plutonium, Watched BTTF with the Family... Fantastic Work all around!
The best “how to” video I have ever watched. Amazing craftsmanship! Also, it convinced me to build one. I have almost finished the box, relays, and the board. Working on the electronics, but I need a new source for the MP3. Amazon indicates it’s not available.
Thank you! There are mp3s in the GitHub link in the description. Good luck on the build, it's super fun! Edit: Realize you meant the MP3 Module, not the MP3s. Any arduino MP3 Module should work. I updated the description link to new ones on Amazon. Thanks for the heads up!
In the home stretch of this project which is the electronics and software. Must all of the Smart LEDs be connected to get it working? Doing a single 10 strip as a test prior to final installation. Nothing is working.
@@RickCurnutte Ahh man! It should work with any number of LEDs. I'd check your FastLED Library to make sure it's working on its own, then test with my code. This code was also written a while ago. I'm not sure if it will work with newer versions of fastLED. Good luck!
Dude you gotta be pleased with yourself and feel pretty damn elated after making that it’s absolutely superb I was blown away man well done 👏👏 I’m looking for a model one to put in my car lol
I really appreciate all the info and the inclusion of where to buy stuff and the files to use for prints. I've already ordered the box (used) and plan to order the rest soon.
I just found this video, you did an amazing job. The research and detail is awesome. This is probably the closest one I have seen and it has bonus modes and sounds. It looks amazing.
Really nice work on this. I do a lot of prop building and for you to tackle this properly with the research and not cutting corners takes a lot of effort and work. Excellent video and work on this!
@@RadBenchYT I'm a huge fan of the movies also and I'm looking forward to making the Flux Capacitor from this tutorial. I made a hoverboard-shaped plutonium box for my Marty Hoverboard on my channel, and I'm working on modeling all the accessory parts for the Pit Bull Board, again Rad great channel, looking forward to more :D
Awesome project! I have a 3D printer and a long background in electronics and soldering so I just might try to make this. Thanks for the video. I came here from Thingiverse after seeing your project on there.
I bought the Stahlin box several years ago, but put my FC build on the back burner because I was stuck at the dimensions of the window cutout and the parts were out of my range at that time. I just found this video, so hopefully I can get going on it again.
that is one hell of a project! amazing work! i can't imagine how much this will cost if someone has to buy the finished product. the craftmanship is top notch. :)
That was first class work! All that attention to detail and effort put while designing each piece.. Not to mention you are sharing all this with us. Thanks a lot man, found this super interesting, and a great project! Subscribing to your channel for sure, happy holidays!
Hi. Your video is amazing. As someone who also built a Flux Capacitor replica trying to match even the screws (for example, the base was attached to the box using rounded black philips screws and I matched even that), I appreciate your work, but also wanted to point some little things you can improve in the future. First of all, the famous "close shot" of the movie, when Doc shows the flux capacitor to Marty... that's not the "A" flux capacitor. The "A" one is when Marty shows it to 1955 Doc after he hid the DeLorean and Doc shows Marty his drawing. That's the one that the restoration team restored. Little things here and there. That "potentiometer" next to the bottom relay is not part of the original flux capacitor. It was added as a quick/cheap fix of something that broke when the car was on display at Universal Studios and they didn't care about it. I know that piece it's displayed on the documentary, but that's not part of the original design, it was added much later, so you can get rid of that if you want. The original Stahlin box is ALMOST the same as the original. They change a couple of things in all these years. If you want the most accurate replica, the hinge must be changed (it was visible on the original box), the rivets have to be "inversed" (as weird as it sounds, the nice rounded end part of the rivet was on the interior, and the rivet pogs on the exterior, you can check that on movie and original flux stills). Also, the clamps where closer in the original box. You have to move them around 2cm each inwards. If you remove them, you can reuse the inner hole , but you have to fill the external holes, and make new inner holes. Also, the relay stickers and the label stickers are not accurate and the reyelay little pegs are not the correct ones (yours are too tall and the cilinder is not flush). The font on the relay stickers is not ok, and for the labels, they weren't made using a Dymo, but a 1/2" Rotex labeler. Just changing the red labels of the outside makes a HUGE improvement on the overall look of the capacitor. Again, not trying to bash your building. I think it's one of the most accurate and dedicated all around youtube and replica makers, but just wanted to point some improvements you can easily do in the future to make it even better. With all the pieces and with the help of a friend that has a little workshop, we spent around 35-40 hours on the building, so I know what you've been through. Congrats on your replica!!!!
Wow! Thanks so much for the info! You know your stuff! I was aware of a couple of these but not everything. I appreciate the time you took to write that out. I'll definitely reference this when I make changes to it. I tried to use non-permanent gluing methods because I knew there were things I was going to want to change. It's a work in progress! Thanks again!
"I am not sure what the correct order is that I need to assign to the mp3 files so that they match the programming of the remote control buttons. For example, m, startup ---0001.mp3, engine start ...."
Great work! When I got into prop making, (2005ish) those 12x10 stahlin boxes used to be had for less than $100. Sometimes $65 brand new...The price spikes on this stuff is insane. I get it's been almost 20 years...but at the end of the day it's just a glorified breaker box. I often wonder if stahlin caught on...lol
With something like this.... THERE IS NO EASY TUTORIAL As he said before i'ts not easy IT IS WORTH IT but it's not for everyone You're going to spend forever getting the parts then.. forever... making everything and getting it right then.. Programming your 3D Printer is always fun and troubleshooting it when it fucks up and then.... you have coding the Arduino and.. the many many many cups of coffee you will down troubleshooting those problems, let's not forget the multiple parts you're going to blow up in the process (Very Likely) And after all that...... IT WON'T WORK PROPERLY then you have to go through it all again and then it works but then something else goes wrong No... There is no easy solution to this there is just HARD WORK DEDICATION and at the end of it , it'll be cool
Fantastic work, thank so much for providing everything and saving so much time for me and many others! But I have to ask: Would you also share the measurement of the board in the back?
Which colour did you end up using? You verbally mention Battleship Gray but list Satin Coastal Gray Spray... Is it because its to difficult to find Battleship gray anywhere in spray? Thank you again for a super vid! Im also going to do this step by step and will eventually get the full specs in cutting out the tubs!!
I used Rust-Oleum coastal gray. If you can't find coastal gray, Rust-Oleum satin granite is almost identical so it would be a good substitute but I think coastal is closer to the right color. Good luck with the build!
Fantastic work.. is there a detailed layout for how you did all the measurements for the pulsing lites and tor relays sparkplug wiring etc on the inside panel?
This is incredible work. It inspired me to make my own. I already bought the expensive box and several elements. But the back board diagram is no longer available. Could you reupload it please?
hah! @5:03 one of my relay bracket holder things jumped a little bit at the exact same spot! What are the odds?! - I am in the middle of building this myself. relying heavily on your dimensions and your examples. I reworked the relay bodies so I could mount them in my oscillating sander and smooth them out. The original relays looked like they had a zinc chromate coating on them, so I tried to replicate that with brass/gold paint with mists of red, green and blue at different angles. I think they came out pretty well. I am working on the vac tubes now. Drilling through that quarter inch acrylic rod was a lot of fun....
Thanks! Yeah the code is available in the GitHub link. Not sure if it needs to be updated with new libraries. I've heard some people have had to modify it to get it working.
Wow!!! So very cool... Been working on mine for aout a year but after seeing this, I think it's going to be time to start over. P.S. You have a mistake in your schematic... The Cap goes from Vcc to GND not in series with Vcc.
Really nice build ! Where did you get the Torr Labs labels from ? I built a 1/2-size one, mainly so I could 3D print the case as well but I have a full size model on my todo list :)
Hello, congratulations on this great job! and thank you for sharing it with everyone. I have a question, the "Spark Plug Wire Set" ignition cables are nowhere to be found, would you have something similar to recommend ? Thank you.
Hey great project. And great job. I bought the box, spark cables, label gun… like 20 something years ago and was stuck on finding Torr relays! LOL. So I have a 3D printer and though. I bet someone has though of this before me. Bam! I have everything printed! And almost all the parts now. One question. Where did you mount the IR sensor. I did not see a hole in the board, in with the center LED? And where did the torr relay stickers come from? Thanks Will
Great video, you convinced me to build my own flux capacitor! Regarding the light bars, do you think it can be cut with a saw since I don't have direct access to a laser cutting machine?
Amazing build! Did I hear you right when you said you have no experience whatsoever with Arduino coding or Chase pattern light programming? If not you sure made it look incredibly easy. I have all the materials to finish mine, but I am stuck with the program coding on the Arduino. Can you advise? Thx
Thanks! Yes, it was my first arduino project and I've forgotten everything lol. I'd recommend looking up FastLED tutorials if you can't get the lighthing working. I remember it was a lot of trial and error to get things working correctly.
This video is possibly the best flux capacitor replica video I have seen - you did an awesome job on your build. Thanks for sharing it. Are you willing to share your template for the white board with the holes etc. marked out? Great work - sub'd and can't wait to check out more vids. Cheers!
JUST AN OBSERVATION not sure why this didn't occur to me before IN YOUR CODE Line 59 #define CLOCK_PIN 13 this line is not necessary since the LED Strip that you are using is WS2812B NEOPIXEL (3 Pin, POWER, GND, DATA) it doesn't have a 4th Pin for a Clock THIS LINE CAN SAFELY BE DELETED and leaving it here can actually cause errors to occur
I like this! 2 LED lights at a time should be lit 6 LEDs in each :) I have 100% the same box the right color I go crazy how do I get the window back? First the rubber strip in place??
Is it just me or does the parts list not include the actual box (Stahlin J1210HPL) mentioned in the video (0.33)? Considering the cost of the box alone is around $125-$150 it certainly won't be an inexpensive project to build but you can't argue that this thing isn't incredible. The results speak for themselves but it isn't a project for a slacker (or so Mr. Strickland tells me).
@@westopping1457 it was a tight squeeze for me as well. I think you need an 1/8" gap between the window and the door. I had to sand mine on the belt sander a couple times to get it to fit.
Hey, wonderful job man!!! I'm trying to replicate and improve some aspects like stereo audio inside. Got one doubt here... the center led in your schematic is backwards right? It is supposed to light up when D12 goes HIGH...am I right? I think thre's no way for it to light up as it is shown, because you'll need some negative voltage at D12... Correct me please! Thanks!
What did you end up using for the window on the box? I didn't see an acrylic sheet or something similar listed in the parts list. Thanks for sharing such a cool project!
That’s okay! I have been running through each of the library versions for the IR and the player. When the Arduino started communicating with the software download, I stopped. Now my flux capacitor is working! I was hoping to verify what I came up with. Still working on getting the MP3 files in the right sequence, but I’ll figure it out! I’m still amazed by what you created! Outstanding job! Thank you for making this possible!
This is fantastic! I'm currently in the process of building this using your instructions, and it's going really well. If you read this - what paint color did you use for the spark plug boots? Thanks in advance and thanks so much for the video and files!!
Cool, thanks! I just mixed some acrylic paint until I got a color that I thought was accurate. Then I watered it down so it could be sprayed with a paint gun. Have fun with the build! 👍😀
@@RadBenchYT Awesome thank you!! One last question - where did you source the power switch? I can't seem to find that in the components list, but i've found everything else. Thanks again!!
@@RadBenchYT Okay, so i'm getting there with this. Your instructions have been INCREDIBLY helpful. I'm just about to start wiring, but I noticed the Arduino kit in your link doesn't come with the breadboard you used. Any idea where I could get one, or what the brand of yours was? I'd love to use the cradle/mount you mocked up for it if possible. Thanks man!!
![Flux capacitor alarm clock - TUTORIAL [ENG SUB]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CLnh5jp8ulE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Flux capacitor alarm clock - TUTORIAL [ENG SUB]](/img/tr.png)
definitely the best LED sequence I've seen so far, really smooth flowing.
The engineering and build is obviously great but I really love the editing and flow of the presentation here.
@@LingLing1337 Thank you!
Making this right now and having a blast, thanks for the vid, plans, models and code! For anyone else who hates sanding/polishing, the top of the Torr relays get covered up by the spark boots, so while I'm sure this is very accurate, you don't really need to shape the top bullet-shaped 1/2 tube, and the rounded rod doesn't need to be there at all.
Amazing! The best prop replica I've seen
GREAT SCOTT!!! Man that is freaking awesome! I had an idea of building a miniature version and installing it on my ebike just for a bit of a laugh. I cannot believe the detail you put into it, especially when you said you never did this or that before. Far out!
Thank you! A mini version would be awesome on an ebike lol. You should do it!
What an amazing project bro! Great work building this replica, you've really motivated me to finally start my own build (so thank you for the 3D files and the parts list as well!). Also, you did a great job editing this video, the whole process was very enjoyable to watch. So props to you, you've earned yourself a new subscriber!
Thank you! That's awesome, it's a fun build!
Incredible! Most accurate one I've seen 🤩
Beyond brilliant!
Thank you so much for adding all the links in the description! You don’t know how thankful I am that you took the time, that’s a lot of time and research you did and saved everyone else the time and hassle of finding all that.
You're welcome! It's such a fun build. I'm glad to help anyone get started on it!
By far the best flux capacitor I've seen !
Thanks!
I’ve been gone for just a few months and come back and see how much better the channel has gotten! I mean the audio and editing are really good!
Wow, thanks so much! These are so fun to make. It's been a blast so far. Appreciate the kind words!
Your channel is going to blow up soon once the algorithm pushes this and your other content. I'll binge watch some things next, but I actually want to make one of these for a backdrop in my office for my videos.
Thanks so much! It's a fun build, I recommend it!
Amazing detail, especially considering the unavailability of the original relays, I never saw that much detail watching the movie, so a way simpler build would have tricked me.
Actually I have a few glass vials from my wife's insulin pens, they look kind of right for a version of this.
I uploaded my finished fluxcapacitor, with build video to follow. Thanks for your files. I did however have to heavily edit your code. Made quite a few changes. Also had to build my own box as importing 1 was going to cost $1000 just to import. But im quite impressed how it turned out.
AMAZING work!!! Liked, Subscribed, Shared, Saved, Wowed, Watched 3 times, Hit Every link in the description, Offered a case of plutonium, Watched BTTF with the Family... Fantastic Work all around!
🤣🤣🤣 Thank you!
The best “how to” video I have ever watched. Amazing craftsmanship! Also, it convinced me to build one. I have almost finished the box, relays, and the board. Working on the electronics, but I need a new source for the MP3. Amazon indicates it’s not available.
Thank you! There are mp3s in the GitHub link in the description. Good luck on the build, it's super fun!
Edit: Realize you meant the MP3 Module, not the MP3s. Any arduino MP3 Module should work. I updated the description link to new ones on Amazon. Thanks for the heads up!
In the home stretch of this project which is the electronics and software. Must all of the Smart LEDs be connected to get it working? Doing a single 10 strip as a test prior to final installation. Nothing is working.
@@RickCurnutte Ahh man! It should work with any number of LEDs. I'd check your FastLED Library to make sure it's working on its own, then test with my code. This code was also written a while ago. I'm not sure if it will work with newer versions of fastLED. Good luck!
Dude you gotta be pleased with yourself and feel pretty damn elated after making that it’s absolutely superb I was blown away man well done 👏👏 I’m looking for a model one to put in my car lol
This video deserves way more views
I really appreciate all the info and the inclusion of where to buy stuff and the files to use for prints. I've already ordered the box (used) and plan to order the rest soon.
ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! Incredible work on this build. Truly a work of art.
I just found this video, you did an amazing job. The research and detail is awesome. This is probably the closest one I have seen and it has bonus modes and sounds. It looks amazing.
Thanks so much! Appreciate it!
Really nice work on this. I do a lot of prop building and for you to tackle this properly with the research and not cutting corners takes a lot of effort and work. Excellent video and work on this!
Thank you! It was such a fun build. Learned a lot!
Such stunning work!!
I love the dedication you have put in to this!
DUDE!! this is amazing! Im beyond impressed :D def gonna give this a shot once i can afford to by the box :P so cool keep it up Rad!!
Thank you! I highly recommend this build! Not easy but it's super fun and satisfying to put together. I learned a lot.
@@RadBenchYT I'm a huge fan of the movies also and I'm looking forward to making the Flux Capacitor from this tutorial. I made a hoverboard-shaped plutonium box for my Marty Hoverboard on my channel, and I'm working on modeling all the accessory parts for the Pit Bull Board, again Rad great channel, looking forward to more :D
@@fandombuilds6701 DUDE! Your channel is awesome! Nice work! Great audio, video, and editing! Keep it up. I'm gonna binge all your videos now lol
@@RadBenchYT AWESOME!! Thank you so much!! i'll do the same to yours :D
What do you think about doing g a collab?
Nice to see my stickers to to such good use!
Love them! Thanks! I wanted to add a link for them in the description but I think the listing I used is down. Do you have a new link?
@@RadBenchYT Not yet, took all my ebay listings down for christmas. Well done on your build its absolutely perfect!
@@robhamilton5057 Thanks so much! Your stickers helped! Let me know when you re-list them and I'll throw a link in the description.
Awesome project! I have a 3D printer and a long background in electronics and soldering so I just might try to make this. Thanks for the video. I came here from Thingiverse after seeing your project on there.
Thanks! It was a fun project. I recommend it!
Projeto fantastico! Parabens.
I bought the Stahlin box several years ago, but put my FC build on the back burner because I was stuck at the dimensions of the window cutout and the parts were out of my range at that time. I just found this video, so hopefully I can get going on it again.
Whoa! Immaculate work! So impressive!
Thank you!🙏
that is one hell of a project! amazing work! i can't imagine how much this will cost if someone has to buy the finished product. the craftmanship is top notch. :)
Thanks so much! Yeah, the amount of work involved wouldn't really make it feasible to sell them, I don't think. That and the IP infringement lol.
Very nice job! Your attention to detail is unparalleled. Keep it up.
Superb 👏👍
You are so talented
This is amazing! Great work. You got me really jealous there.
Thank you!
Outstanding work!! Very enjoyable watching you build while hearing your commentary.
Might you be building more from the Time Machine?
All that hard work to put it together. No wonder it took Emmet Brown years and almost all his family fortune to make it possible :P
My god has it been that long ?
That was really cool watching you build this! What an awesome job you did!
Thanks so much!
A lot of "never dones" in your conclusion, you did amazingly despite that!
Thanks! Yeah, it was a learning process! Tons of fun though and super satisfying. 😎
excellent work!!!
Thank you!
Mind blowing job..❤
Thank you!
Just awesome Nate!
Increíble work. Excellent explanation, thank you for sharing.
This is amazing. Awesome work!
Thank you!
That was first class work! All that attention to detail and effort put while designing each piece.. Not to mention you are sharing all this with us.
Thanks a lot man, found this super interesting, and a great project!
Subscribing to your channel for sure, happy holidays!
Thanks so much!
This is NASTYYYYY. Great job
This is heavy! 😎 Great work!👍
We've made a video about building the "Time Circuit Display" from Back to the Future. 😊
Awesome build!
Thank you!
amazing replica!
Thank you!
Hi. Your video is amazing. As someone who also built a Flux Capacitor replica trying to match even the screws (for example, the base was attached to the box using rounded black philips screws and I matched even that), I appreciate your work, but also wanted to point some little things you can improve in the future. First of all, the famous "close shot" of the movie, when Doc shows the flux capacitor to Marty... that's not the "A" flux capacitor. The "A" one is when Marty shows it to 1955 Doc after he hid the DeLorean and Doc shows Marty his drawing. That's the one that the restoration team restored.
Little things here and there. That "potentiometer" next to the bottom relay is not part of the original flux capacitor. It was added as a quick/cheap fix of something that broke when the car was on display at Universal Studios and they didn't care about it. I know that piece it's displayed on the documentary, but that's not part of the original design, it was added much later, so you can get rid of that if you want.
The original Stahlin box is ALMOST the same as the original. They change a couple of things in all these years. If you want the most accurate replica, the hinge must be changed (it was visible on the original box), the rivets have to be "inversed" (as weird as it sounds, the nice rounded end part of the rivet was on the interior, and the rivet pogs on the exterior, you can check that on movie and original flux stills). Also, the clamps where closer in the original box. You have to move them around 2cm each inwards. If you remove them, you can reuse the inner hole , but you have to fill the external holes, and make new inner holes.
Also, the relay stickers and the label stickers are not accurate and the reyelay little pegs are not the correct ones (yours are too tall and the cilinder is not flush). The font on the relay stickers is not ok, and for the labels, they weren't made using a Dymo, but a 1/2" Rotex labeler. Just changing the red labels of the outside makes a HUGE improvement on the overall look of the capacitor.
Again, not trying to bash your building. I think it's one of the most accurate and dedicated all around youtube and replica makers, but just wanted to point some improvements you can easily do in the future to make it even better. With all the pieces and with the help of a friend that has a little workshop, we spent around 35-40 hours on the building, so I know what you've been through.
Congrats on your replica!!!!
Wow! Thanks so much for the info! You know your stuff! I was aware of a couple of these but not everything. I appreciate the time you took to write that out. I'll definitely reference this when I make changes to it. I tried to use non-permanent gluing methods because I knew there were things I was going to want to change. It's a work in progress! Thanks again!
insane what you did bro!
You forgot to add the sizzle electrode sound the flux capacitor made when Doc Brown was showing Marty at the Twin Pines Mall scene.
Incredible.
Thanks!
I want one!
That is so cool , great work , 👍✌️
This is a great build video, ane you have awesome tatse in synthwave ;)
Thanks!
@@RadBenchYT I sent you an email regarding a possible upgrade to the electronics let me know what you think :)
"I am not sure what the correct order is that I need to assign to the mp3 files so that they match the programming of the remote control buttons. For example, m, startup ---0001.mp3, engine start ...."
Great work! When I got into prop making, (2005ish) those 12x10 stahlin boxes used to be had for less than $100. Sometimes $65 brand new...The price spikes on this stuff is insane. I get it's been almost 20 years...but at the end of the day it's just a glorified breaker box. I often wonder if stahlin caught on...lol
Thanks! Yep, I think they know prop makers want those boxes!
Very cool and well done
Thank you!
HERE IT COMES
Rien que un mot''IMPRESSIONNANT' '
Merci!
I watched the entire video even though I was just looking for a simple DIY tutorial using LED strips and plastic tubes.
With something like this.... THERE IS NO EASY TUTORIAL
As he said before
i'ts not easy
IT IS WORTH IT
but it's not for everyone
You're going to spend forever getting the parts
then.. forever... making everything and getting it right
then.. Programming your 3D Printer is always fun and troubleshooting it
when it fucks up
and then.... you have coding the Arduino
and.. the many many many cups of coffee you will down troubleshooting those problems, let's not forget the multiple parts you're going to blow up in the process (Very Likely)
And after all that...... IT WON'T WORK PROPERLY
then you have to go through it all again
and then it works but then something else goes wrong
No... There is no easy solution to this
there is just
HARD WORK
DEDICATION
and at the end of it , it'll be cool
Standing ovation.
Thank you!
Fantastic work, thank so much for providing everything and saving so much time for me and many others! But I have to ask: Would you also share the measurement of the board in the back?
Thank you! The backboard as well as a few other files are on github: github.com/Rad-Bench/flux/blob/main/FluxBackBoard_RadBench_v3.pdf
@@RadBenchYT Fantastic! Again! You are just great! 💫
Hi!, what a great job!. I've one question, can I use a half-sized breadboard?
Which colour did you end up using? You verbally mention Battleship Gray but list Satin Coastal Gray Spray...
Is it because its to difficult to find Battleship gray anywhere in spray?
Thank you again for a super vid! Im also going to do this step by step and will eventually get the full specs in cutting out the tubs!!
I used Rust-Oleum coastal gray. If you can't find coastal gray, Rust-Oleum satin granite is almost identical so it would be a good substitute but I think coastal is closer to the right color. Good luck with the build!
i like music 13:13
Did you end up glueing the top of the Torr Relay to the cylinder?
I want this great thing
Fantastic work.. is there a detailed layout for how you did all the measurements for the pulsing lites and tor relays sparkplug wiring etc on the inside panel?
This is incredible work. It inspired me to make my own. I already bought the expensive box and several elements. But the back board diagram is no longer available. Could you reupload it please?
Thank you! It's on the github page: github.com/Rad-Bench/flux/blob/main/FluxBackBoard_RadBench_v3.pdf
hah! @5:03 one of my relay bracket holder things jumped a little bit at the exact same spot! What are the odds?! - I am in the middle of building this myself. relying heavily on your dimensions and your examples. I reworked the relay bodies so I could mount them in my oscillating sander and smooth them out. The original relays looked like they had a zinc chromate coating on them, so I tried to replicate that with brass/gold paint with mists of red, green and blue at different angles. I think they came out pretty well. I am working on the vac tubes now. Drilling through that quarter inch acrylic rod was a lot of fun....
Cool! I'd love to see pics when you're done!
I would rather tie in lights timing with Rpm of the vehicle
That would be cool. If only I had a DeLorean!
Absolutely amazing. I will for sure tackle this one day . Is everything available for the coding ?
Thanks! Yeah the code is available in the GitHub link. Not sure if it needs to be updated with new libraries. I've heard some people have had to modify it to get it working.
@@RadBenchYT much appreciated .
Hello, the paint rustoleum satin coastal Gray, doesn't exist in France. Do you have an other brand or reference please ? 🙂
Amazing job I’d love to do that I’d screw it up though
Wow!!! So very cool... Been working on mine for aout a year but after seeing this, I think it's going to be time to start over.
P.S. You have a mistake in your schematic... The Cap goes from Vcc to GND not in series with Vcc.
Thank you! You're right, I'll update the graphic on the GitHub.
Really nice build !
Where did you get the Torr Labs labels from ?
I built a 1/2-size one, mainly so I could 3D print the case as well but I have a full size model on my todo list :)
Thank you! I got them on eBay but the listing is currently down. I believe you can find them on Etsy though.
Hello,
congratulations on this great job! and thank you for sharing it with everyone.
I have a question, the "Spark Plug Wire Set" ignition cables are nowhere to be found, would you have something similar to recommend ?
Thank you.
These should be the same ones: amzn.to/49crEAT
great ! thank you
parabens expetacular trabalho perfeito
Hey great project. And great job. I bought the box, spark cables, label gun… like 20 something years ago and was stuck on finding Torr relays! LOL. So I have a 3D printer and though. I bet someone has though of this before me. Bam! I have everything printed! And almost all the parts now. One question. Where did you mount the IR sensor. I did not see a hole in the board, in with the center LED? And where did the torr relay stickers come from? Thanks Will
Well. I saw the IR sensor in the vid that time… lol.
nice
Great video, you convinced me to build my own flux capacitor! Regarding the light bars, do you think it can be cut with a saw since I don't have direct access to a laser cutting machine?
@@ericdegre3538 cool! Yeah you can cut acrylic with a saw and the cool thing about acrylic is if it's a rough cut, you can just sand it smooth.
@@RadBenchYT thank you very much!
Amazing build! Did I hear you right when you said you have no experience whatsoever with Arduino coding or Chase pattern light programming? If not you sure made it look incredibly easy. I have all the materials to finish mine, but I am stuck with the program coding on the Arduino. Can you advise? Thx
Thanks! Yes, it was my first arduino project and I've forgotten everything lol. I'd recommend looking up FastLED tutorials if you can't get the lighthing working. I remember it was a lot of trial and error to get things working correctly.
This video is possibly the best flux capacitor replica video I have seen - you did an awesome job on your build. Thanks for sharing it. Are you willing to share your template for the white board with the holes etc. marked out? Great work - sub'd and can't wait to check out more vids. Cheers!
Thanks so much! Yep, the template is on GitHub: github.com/Rad-Bench/flux
JUST AN OBSERVATION
not sure why this didn't occur to me before
IN YOUR CODE
Line 59 #define CLOCK_PIN 13
this line is not necessary since the LED Strip that you are using is WS2812B NEOPIXEL (3 Pin, POWER, GND, DATA) it doesn't have a 4th Pin for a Clock
THIS LINE CAN SAFELY BE DELETED and leaving it here can actually cause errors to occur
I like this! 2 LED lights at a time should be lit 6 LEDs in each :) I have 100% the same box the right color I go crazy how do I get the window back? First the rubber strip in place??
Is it just me or does the parts list not include the actual box (Stahlin J1210HPL) mentioned in the video (0.33)? Considering the cost of the box alone is around $125-$150 it certainly won't be an inexpensive project to build but you can't argue that this thing isn't incredible. The results speak for themselves but it isn't a project for a slacker (or so Mr. Strickland tells me).
Haha, Thank you! You're right. I added the box to the parts list. I got mine off ebay for around $100 but it's still not a cheap build!
No, not a cheap build at all
and that's not even counting labour
How did you get the plexiglass in that rubber boot? i am finding that to be a major pain!
@@westopping1457 it was a tight squeeze for me as well. I think you need an 1/8" gap between the window and the door. I had to sand mine on the belt sander a couple times to get it to fit.
Hey, wonderful job man!!! I'm trying to replicate and improve some aspects like stereo audio inside. Got one doubt here... the center led in your schematic is backwards right? It is supposed to light up when D12 goes HIGH...am I right? I think thre's no way for it to light up as it is shown, because you'll need some negative voltage at D12... Correct me please! Thanks!
Sensational! You went deep into building fidelity. Congratulations. Would you sell?
Thank you! Sorry, I can't part with it just yet!
If you want to buy one (Exactly like in this video) i can build you one if you're interested
Laser cut plastic Acrylic what watt?
What did you end up using for the window on the box? I didn't see an acrylic sheet or something similar listed in the parts list. Thanks for sharing such a cool project!
Thanks! Yep, it's just a 3mm acrylic sheet.
“Flux capatchittor!” 😅
Where did you find the black window seal? Thanks -
McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com/3275T22/
Would you mind posting the Arduino library versions for IRremote, and DFRobot Player? Thank you!
Sorry, I didn't make a note of the versions and I don't have the files on my pc. Most likely the latest versions at the time the video was published.
That’s okay! I have been running through each of the library versions for the IR and the player. When the Arduino started communicating with the software download, I stopped. Now my flux capacitor is working! I was hoping to verify what I came up with. Still working on getting the MP3 files in the right sequence, but I’ll figure it out!
I’m still amazed by what you created! Outstanding job! Thank you for making this possible!
Awesome job man.
Thank you!
Excellent work! Was it difficult installing the window and seal?
Yes, it was very tight! A lot of grunting involved lol. The trick is to start at one end and work your way around.
It's C, not C++. Entirely different languages.
This is so helpful! What did you use for the window plastic? I need to source that. Kindly
I must have missed that in the parts list. I ordered these but any acrylic sheet should be fine: amzn.to/3SeMvvT
This is fantastic! I'm currently in the process of building this using your instructions, and it's going really well. If you read this - what paint color did you use for the spark plug boots? Thanks in advance and thanks so much for the video and files!!
Cool, thanks! I just mixed some acrylic paint until I got a color that I thought was accurate. Then I watered it down so it could be sprayed with a paint gun. Have fun with the build! 👍😀
@@RadBenchYT Awesome thank you!! One last question - where did you source the power switch? I can't seem to find that in the components list, but i've found everything else. Thanks again!!
@@rphillips1217 ahh I guess I missed that one. amzn.to/43y2MB4
@@RadBenchYT Okay, so i'm getting there with this. Your instructions have been INCREDIBLY helpful. I'm just about to start wiring, but I noticed the Arduino kit in your link doesn't come with the breadboard you used. Any idea where I could get one, or what the brand of yours was? I'd love to use the cradle/mount you mocked up for it if possible. Thanks man!!
@@rphillips1217 sure, I used this one: amzn.to/3X6FPCO