Hello from Australia! Your videos are excellent! I have a new Defender with no issues...yet, but they will come in handy in time! There seems to be a lot of conjecture about wheel bearing re-greasing. Many people seem to convert to oil-filled bearings. I would assume that if the seals are all ok, it wouldn't matter? If there are no leaks, how often should grease-filled wheel bearings be re-greased? Nobody seems to have a straight answer!
+Andrew McDonald (SciFen) oil filled was popular at one time. Iveco trucks still have oil fillable hubs as standard. Land Rovers were too. Re greasing intervals it is difficult to say but you would expect to re grease bearings when the brake discs are replaced. If the vehicle is working in extreme conditions then real care must be taken and the task of bearing maintenance taken seriously to avoid failure. I read an article about a journey to Iceland by Defender. The volcanic ash there damaged the hub seals and stub axles very quickly because the dust is so abrasive. I prefer oil filled but reality they also need stripping and cleaning periodically as there is no real way for the oil to drain back to the diff and the hub is the end of axle place where oil stays.
Hi and thanks for providing excellent and super helpful videos. I'm just about to change the leaking seal and inspect the bearings on the rear stub axle of my Land Rover, Series 3. Do you have any advice please on how to clean up the bearings before re-greasing them, prior to installation if they are still good.
Great video, thanks. Do you have any tips for identifying when you have a failed wheel bearing and how to identify which one? I think I may have one on the way out - but I'm not sure.
Watch some of our other videos about inspection techniques in the playlist Fine Art of Land Rover Maintenance on our main channel. I will say that some faults you won't find unless you remove the drive flange to let the wheel spin freely and spin the wheel to check for rumbling.
Hi, thanks for sharing this vid. I need to do this job, but do not have the special tool to drive the seal. Is there any other way this can be achieved? Thank you
@10:32 where he describes using the old race to set on the seal. Instead of using the driving tool on the race, a block of wood which spans the width of the race, but is not too wide to hit the hub will work, too.
So I have a 2001 td5. I have seen a video on another TH-cam channel where they did a front brake replacement and that particular Defender had the 2 nut method not the weird spacer method. Definately going for the 2 nut system when I replace mine. Anything special I need to know?
Nothing special however the "weird Spacer" is superior to the older end float setting method. However, the spacer requires some measurement to get it set up properly. Here is the video on that: th-cam.com/video/q2QdwGc-ujY/w-d-xo.html
@@trailerfitter2 thanks, I've been watching all your wheel bearing videos as well as searching online forums and Facebook groups. I think from what I've seen a lot of guys shy away from the td5s setup and go for the more old school method. I'm assuming that the 2001 td5 that was in the brake replacement video was one of these conversions or I've also heard that earlier td5s may still run the old setup. My main reason for switching is I'm from South Africa and the simpler the setup the better and it seems that the old 2 nut setup is a lot easier to repair on a trip. Quick question though, the inner lip or spacer that stopes the races going in further, on the hub in this video it looks like a permanent part of the hub. Is it the same on a td5 or will I need some sort of conversion kit or new hub?
Hiya, your Videos are great especially for people like me with limited tools, do you recon I could still do 89 range rover ABS axles in similar conditions to what you have there?
Nope! however I have had a lot more experience with mechanics now, jobs like this are simple for me, range rover project of mine is on the back burner for now.
Thanks for this video however i do haven a question. When you mention that the bearing drops out (at 2:23), are you referring to the baring race or the taper bearing itself?
I mean the race in the hub. If it is loose then the hub is unserviceable as it will have been spinning which it shouldn't do/ it should be firm in there.
heya...managed to change the bearings however have not set the end float yet. When fitting the hub on the stub axle, there seems to be a lot of drag even with the adjuster nut slightly loose. If this normal for new bearings?
Can you switch the newer defender 110 td5 setup to this one without any trouble? Seems a bit trickier to replace bearings using the spacer method if you run into problems away from a garage.
I'm about to change F/OS bearing in my freelander MK1 2004, td4 . can the bearings be fitted the same way. IE no need for a bearing press ? I've fitted a few wheel bearings in my time. I've always had to use a bearing press. Though some did pop in very easy. And had a retaining ring. Perhaps they didn't need the press. Anyways back to my TD4 . make life easier for me if I can fit wheel bearings without a bearing press because I ain't got one. .
hi there, i cant remember, is the front and rear axle bearing the same on a defender 90 198 as i am in canada and only have the one spare set, so wondered if i needed a second one cheers
I can't thank You enough for these very instructive repair videos.I look on them just for getting to know my 300 Tdi, but now I'm really hooked to get going .I have all the spare parts lying around in my garage, new discs, bearings and calipers, etc, but I have one big problem. These idiotic 12 point bolts. Is it 13 mm or 1/2 " ? My Tdi is from 1998 and the bolts are off course totally rusted together. In your video everything just falls apart and I understand that You don't want to be seen swearing with blody knuckles. I'm afraid to put my 50cm breaker bar to these bolts, that I fear will end up rounded. Any tricks: rust oil or heat- does the hub and caliper stand for a good heating. I 'm concidering to replace these 12 pointers with hex bolts for future serviceability .
+bergatube60 1/2 inch is 12.7 mm. You need bi hexagonal sockets to do that job. Yes sometimes things do fall to bit and other times I do make sure that time is not wasted messing around getting stuff stripped. We do a lot of preparation for video sometimes. All the techniques and fitters tricks are in the videos somewhere to help you out. Using a wheel and the hub upturned in the wheel will help. I use a battery power gun or air impact wrench for speed but a breaker bar is used sometimes just to shift awkward bolts or nuts.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Thanks for fast reply, just to clarify I can use a 13 mm bi-hex socket? I'l try the breakerbar after heating, the airgun can and have earlier splittit an ordinary socket like glas - uhhh not nice
+bergatube60 You need impact sockets when you use an impact wreck. Single hex sockets are better than Bi Hex sockets when you need to over force any fixing.
there are probably 10 items in that shop that could be used as a driver to correctly evenly seat a race and bearing, but whatever. It’s a Range Rover, it’s going to burn down on the side of the freeway or fall apart long before the bearing fails.
Instructions are in the workshop manual believe it or not. You need to select a shorter spacer. Tighten up the hub nut them measure the end float. Do a calculation the fit the correct spacer from the measurement achieved.
Thanks for this video! We've found it to be extremely useful as we replace our bearings on our 96 D1. I appreciate your explanation and tips/tricks.
If you are working at home, put the new bearing race in the freezer for a few hours, it will then push into the hub with finger pressure.
Thanks for sharing Chris, one of the best Landrover video sets on youtube
thank you
Very help ful video. I was wondering if anyone could help with a question?
Are the bearings common for Series 3 and Defenders?
Hello from Australia! Your videos are excellent! I have a new Defender with no issues...yet, but they will come in handy in time! There seems to be a lot of conjecture about wheel bearing re-greasing. Many people seem to convert to oil-filled bearings. I would assume that if the seals are all ok, it wouldn't matter? If there are no leaks, how often should grease-filled wheel bearings be re-greased? Nobody seems to have a straight answer!
+Andrew McDonald (SciFen) oil filled was popular at one time. Iveco trucks still have oil fillable hubs as standard. Land Rovers were too. Re greasing intervals it is difficult to say but you would expect to re grease bearings when the brake discs are replaced. If the vehicle is working in extreme conditions then real care must be taken and the task of bearing maintenance taken seriously to avoid failure. I read an article about a journey to Iceland by Defender. The volcanic ash there damaged the hub seals and stub axles very quickly because the dust is so abrasive.
I prefer oil filled but reality they also need stripping and cleaning periodically as there is no real way for the oil to drain back to the diff and the hub is the end of axle place where oil stays.
Absolutely well made video. Thank You
How many bites did you tighten the hub nut?how many torque
Hi and thanks for providing excellent and super helpful videos. I'm just about to change the leaking seal and inspect the bearings on the rear stub axle of my Land Rover, Series 3. Do you have any advice please on how to clean up the bearings before re-greasing them, prior to installation if they are still good.
Great video, thanks. Do you have any tips for identifying when you have a failed wheel bearing and how to identify which one? I think I may have one on the way out - but I'm not sure.
Watch some of our other videos about inspection techniques in the playlist Fine Art of Land Rover Maintenance on our main channel. I will say that some faults you won't find unless you remove the drive flange to let the wheel spin freely and spin the wheel to check for rumbling.
Hi, thanks for sharing this vid. I need to do this job, but do not have the special tool to drive the seal. Is there any other way this can be achieved? Thank you
@10:32 where he describes using the old race to set on the seal. Instead of using the driving tool on the race, a block of wood which spans the width of the race, but is not too wide to hit the hub will work, too.
So I have a 2001 td5. I have seen a video on another TH-cam channel where they did a front brake replacement and that particular Defender had the 2 nut method not the weird spacer method. Definately going for the 2 nut system when I replace mine. Anything special I need to know?
Nothing special however the "weird Spacer" is superior to the older end float setting method. However, the spacer requires some measurement to get it set up properly. Here is the video on that: th-cam.com/video/q2QdwGc-ujY/w-d-xo.html
@@trailerfitter2 thanks, I've been watching all your wheel bearing videos as well as searching online forums and Facebook groups. I think from what I've seen a lot of guys shy away from the td5s setup and go for the more old school method. I'm assuming that the 2001 td5 that was in the brake replacement video was one of these conversions or I've also heard that earlier td5s may still run the old setup. My main reason for switching is I'm from South Africa and the simpler the setup the better and it seems that the old 2 nut setup is a lot easier to repair on a trip. Quick question though, the inner lip or spacer that stopes the races going in further, on the hub in this video it looks like a permanent part of the hub. Is it the same on a td5 or will I need some sort of conversion kit or new hub?
Does this cover the freelander 1?
+nw8000 Sorry no. They are more like pressed in car bearings than the fully floating hub bearing set up.
Hiya, your Videos are great especially for people like me with limited tools, do you recon I could still do 89 range rover ABS axles in similar conditions to what you have there?
Hi Sorry Matt. I have only just seen your post. yes Should be the same. I guess you have done them now.
Nope! however I have had a lot more experience with mechanics now, jobs like this are simple for me, range rover project of mine is on the back burner for now.
Thanks for this video however i do haven a question. When you mention that the bearing drops out (at 2:23), are you referring to the baring race or the taper bearing itself?
I mean the race in the hub. If it is loose then the hub is unserviceable as it will have been spinning which it shouldn't do/ it should be firm in there.
heya...managed to change the bearings however have not set the end float yet. When fitting the hub on the stub axle, there seems to be a lot of drag even with the adjuster nut slightly loose. If this normal for new bearings?
Are the bearing races fully home in the hub?
should be as i inspected them from both ends...is there anything else which could go wrong till i recheck
Can you switch the newer defender 110 td5 setup to this one without any trouble? Seems a bit trickier to replace bearings using the spacer method if you run into problems away from a garage.
I'm about to change F/OS bearing in my freelander MK1 2004, td4 . can the bearings be fitted the same way. IE no need for a bearing press ? I've fitted a few wheel bearings in my time. I've always had to use a bearing press. Though some did pop in very easy. And had a retaining ring. Perhaps they didn't need the press. Anyways back to my TD4 . make life easier for me if I can fit wheel bearings without a bearing press because I ain't got one. .
Is the video a Salisbury or a Rover type? Do they have different hubs or do both use the same stubs and hubs?
hi there, i cant remember, is the front and rear axle bearing the same on a defender 90 198 as i am in canada and only have the one spare set, so wondered if i needed a second one cheers
they should be the same unless someone has swapped out and axle for something different. I hope yours is all original to the chassis number.
Where i can buy the maintenance manual?
Does TD5 (I know this is the engine) mean Rover type rear axle and 300TDIs have the Salisbury rear axle?
No. Disco 1 does not have a Salisbury rear axle. I think they are just on the 110 Defender
Outstanding. Thank you!
You are a Rover God..
I can't thank You enough for these very instructive repair videos.I look on them just for getting to know my 300 Tdi, but now I'm really hooked to get going .I have all the spare parts lying around in my garage, new discs, bearings and calipers, etc, but I have one big problem. These idiotic 12 point bolts. Is it 13 mm or 1/2 " ? My Tdi is from 1998 and the bolts are off course totally rusted together. In your video everything just falls apart and I understand that You don't want to be seen swearing with blody knuckles. I'm afraid to put my 50cm breaker bar to these bolts, that I fear will end up rounded. Any tricks: rust oil or heat- does the hub and caliper stand for a good heating. I 'm concidering to replace these 12 pointers with hex bolts for future serviceability .
+bergatube60 1/2 inch is 12.7 mm. You need bi hexagonal sockets to do that job. Yes sometimes things do fall to bit and other times I do make sure that time is not wasted messing around getting stuff stripped. We do a lot of preparation for video sometimes. All the techniques and fitters tricks are in the videos somewhere to help you out. Using a wheel and the hub upturned in the wheel will help. I use a battery power gun or air impact wrench for speed but a breaker bar is used sometimes just to shift awkward bolts or nuts.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Thanks for fast reply, just to clarify I can use a 13 mm bi-hex socket?
I'l try the breakerbar after heating, the airgun can and have earlier splittit an ordinary socket like glas - uhhh not nice
+bergatube60 You need impact sockets when you use an impact wreck. Single hex sockets are better than Bi Hex sockets when you need to over force any fixing.
Wow!! That introduction to the Video is HORRID!!
Jarring as hell!
Apart from that. Love your videos!
what can I use is I don't have a seal fitter?
+Country Brothers Outdoors an old bearing race
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos thanks
+Country Brothers Outdoors okay,..... cool.
there are probably 10 items in that shop that could be used as a driver to correctly evenly seat a race and bearing, but whatever. It’s a Range Rover, it’s going to burn down on the side of the freeway or fall apart long before the bearing fails.
Not that one. It is still going strong.
Hi mate ur videos r a great watch keep it up :)
Cheers!
Great video.very helpful
claire nette merci Mec
Theres nothing said about the spacer between the bearing and chasing the right size
I'll have to do a video covering setting and measuring.
that would be great I can't fined one anywhere
Instructions are in the workshop manual believe it or not. You need to select a shorter spacer. Tighten up the hub nut them measure the end float. Do a calculation the fit the correct spacer from the measurement achieved.
Hey, my 1999 Dodge Ram Van 3500 works this way too!
Magic ..😁
Fucking horrible starting siren!! What the fuck??!