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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- ▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼
The wheel hub and bearing on the Range Rover Sport or LR3 are frequent wear items. When the wheel hub/bearing begins to fail, you may notice a grinding noise coming from a corner of the car that changes as the wheel speed changes and/or with turning left or right. The grinding usually does not change with light braking or accelerator use. When you jack up the wheel in question you should notice some wobble when rocking the wheel from the sides and from the top/bottom. The final check is inspecting the other suspension components for weakness, as worn upper/lower control arm bushings or other bushings can cause laxity in the wheel.
➤ Parts required:
Wheel Hub/Bearing (Hudson): www.roverparts...
Wheel Hub/Bearing (Timken): www.roverparts...
➤ Tools required:
15mm wrench: amzn.to/3ZlMLML
21mm 12-point wrench: amzn.to/3oEbPeE
T50 Torx Bit Socket: amzn.to/3tyG4aC
1 1/4" Socket (or 32mm): amzn.to/3ZmqjmE
1" Breaker Bar: amzn.to/3kMGE51
Mini-sledge: amzn.to/3ycWQzk
➤ The tool set I use: amzn.to/46VKwU4
➤ Torque specifications (Nm/lb-ft):
Brake Rotor T50 Torx Screw (35/26)
Brake caliper 21mm anchor plate bolts (275/202)
Wheel Hub 15mm Bolts (115/85)
32mm Axle Nut (230/169)
Road wheel nuts (140/103)
Works with RRS and LR3 MY 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
#rangeroversport #LR3 #rangerover #landrover
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. I (Hazy) assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I (Hazy) recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Hazy.
On My Way by Ghostrifter Official | / ghostrifter-official
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creativecommon...
Your videos are outstanding.
Love your voice ! Thanks for doing this 🙏🏼
Just wanted to say thanks. I've been watching your RR videos for a while now and have to commend you on the quality and the small details (like torque values for bolts) that you include.
Changed both front wheel bearings out tonight due to a loose steering feel. Had the LR3 in for Alignment 3 times, changed the lower steering shaft twice, and refused to believe that the alignment shop wouldn't pick up a faulty wheel bearing.
Finally jacked the beast up in the driveway (garage being the store room for everything that doesn't have a home inside the house...and the reason why I didn't check wheel bearings earlier) and found a 12 and 6 wobble. Difference in steering feel is remarkable!
That's great! Glad I could help you figure it out and it's good that it's something relatively simple and not the steering rack or something.
Man thanx for doing this video! Def was the guide for todays task for changing out mines bud! 🙏🏾
Glad it helped 🤙
My hub coincidentally went bad right when you made this video. I am 95% done with the replacement but cannot get that damn thing off. Been hammering for hours among other techniques lol. But seriously thanks for high quality videos - huge help.
Yeah mine was weirdly easy but it usually needs some hammering to detach 🫤
@@HazyJay I was at an LR specialist shop getting my tranny oil changed and there was this awful endless banging going on, I told the desk guy I hope that's not my LR3 they're beating on and he said they were doing the bearing on one, makes sense now
I wonder if looserning the bolts a turn and driving on a bumpy road would help?
Life is not fair. I can't believe how clean and rust free that vehicle is. Hopefully you can go your whole life with never working on a rust belt vehicle. Nice job on the video.
Saved me big bucks! Thanks. Did it in my garage.
This was very helpful to me, thank you very much. By any chance would you have a video on how to do the rear wheel hub and bearing replacement? I noticed things are a little different back there.
thanks for another informative money saving quick vid
Thank you for this good video
Thanks for the helpful video!
I did my passenger side. Wasn’t complicated at all. Just very physical.
Very slick presentation start to finish. Wish more people made such professional content as this, Mr Hazy. Not sure if this is my problem. Was driving around in Philly last light and heard this hellish dragging noise. Yet no debris in the wheel, wheel well or anywhere underneath my 2009 RRS.
Definitely sounds like something is rubbing SOMEWHERE, but that kind of noise is always hard. I'd drive through an alley with both windows down to see if it's front or back and left or right, then maybe you can narrow the source down a bit.
Rather using a jack stand to support breaking off the hub nut, just have the vehicle on the ground and pop the hub cap off.
I already changed the whole control arms upper and under now I need to do that job on the rear both sides this car makes me poor even when I'm changing everything by my self 😅
Great vid
you can add a month of grinding heating penetrant etc if you live in a road salt area, or not, but thats been how it goes so far with my 2005 Chicago sourced LR3, but this helps alot, I'll be just blanket replacing every bearing and control arm, its time after 18 years
Yeah I was pleasantly surprised it came off with just pulling with my hands 🤔, very rare
@@HazyJay my first bearing hub came off with only a bit of mini sledge and chisel work, not so bad, then the engine started billowing clouds of smoke randomly Aghhhh!!!! replacing everything else now
Harbor freight has a 4 foot breaker bar. It’s fantastic and worth the $100
Awesome
Bro get a torque gun lol it will make life a lot easier all those nuts will come right off with the push of a button, works great with rusted bolts
Loosen axle nut first
Hello. When my 2008 Range Rover sport vehicle is on the road, the interior lights do not turn off, the trip computer is reset, the screen stays on the land rover logo,lo the quad signals turn on, unlock the doors the tape turns off and it says vehicle fault system shutting down. When I took off the bottom of the last passenger's seat, the cables were in the water. I removed the seat and upholstery and solved the water problem. The red light on the fiber optic is back. There was an electrical leak, I took care of it. but now my car sometimes gives this error while driving on the road and gets better. The screen sometimes stays frozen, sometimes comes on, but when I enter the 4x4 information, it does not show the vehicle's steering angle, gear position and suspension movements. What can be the problem?
For the axle nut can a impact wrench be used?
Definitely! but tighten to torque specs
dude, you forgot the music again :(
😅Is that what the people want? LoFi hiphop vibes
well, it made an appearance at the end, but still ;)
@@HazyJay it's what I want yo
Bro i have to change both front wheel bearings , I can't do what you did tho. So I have to send the car in
Taking the axle nut off is definitely the hardest part
@@HazyJay do you have problems with the brake rotors grinding after a brake change?
@@triniman1219 They may need to set if you changed the pads and didn't change the rotors, but after a few hard braking attempts it should go away. If not, there's likely something rubbing like the metal bracket.
lol, where is the blow torch and 8LB sludge hammer.... long hard swings
Stunning. If I was you I would employ SMZeus.