Hi John! This is so informative and guide me so much as a car mechanic. First time of encountering this Polaris from my friend. I was able to run the year stocked polaris by changing battery and fuel pump. Unfortunately, its not engaging and I'm suspecting the clutch belt. We'll see later once open.I'm a happy subscriber now. Keep posting more videos on this model. Thumbs-up!
Love your videos. Very instructional. Looking to add a Polaris ranger lift in my home garage to do some of my own maintenance. What lift are you using?
Your videos are very helpful. I have a 2015 Polaris Ranger XP 900 and was able to remove the belt and clean and replace the Driven Clutch. However, I was not able to torque the Drive Clutch. I had the vehicle in High and someone depressing the brak. The clutch would spin and I could never get the bolt torqued to 43 foot/lbs. Why would this happen and what I can do to re-torque? Thank you.
So...I have a primary clutch on a used 2012 sportsman 500 that is catching, it starts to go in...stops...then suddenly goes in all the way. I am installing a whole new primary. The belt was just changed 5 months ago. So with a used belt...used secondary...but a NEW primary...what is the process? change the belt anyway? only scuff the new primary and use old belt? scuff both? scuff neither? Thanks.
Dev/Null no need to scuff, just wash your belt and let dry. I would replace the old belt. Polaris recommendation is to c/o belt every 50 hours, 1000 miles or 6 mo. Whichever comes first
@@Its_steve_bro Thank you for the reply. What i wound up figuring out was the buttons int he secondary were worn...causing my issue. So i did not need a new primary or new belt...just service on the secondary and all was good. Thanks again.
I just completed this process on my 17 ranger 1000 xp due to getting my old belt hot and glazed on the sides causing slippage now with the new belt installed it is bucking and jerking at low rpm’s during take off any ideas what would cause this?
Did you clean the sheeves with contact cleaner and a scotch brite pad? If the sheeves are worn and don't move in a fluid full motion, that would be the big one. In the vid I show how the drive sheeve should move with the spring removed. Does that help?
For anyone looking to do this on a 2013 900xp....This doesn’t work the same way. Clutch doesn’t come apart and it’s impossible to get the belt on without spreading the clutch. Better have a good pry bar then you have to be careful not to scuff or bend $500 aluminum clutch. Level 1 task (according to the video) for me turned into level 3 real quick. I’ve serviced everything on my ranger, installed led lights, installed a winch, rocker switches, changed out axles, boots etc.... this task isn’t easy. In fact, very difficult to get the belt back on. I’ll never do this again. Paying the pros next time.
Hi John! This is so informative and guide me so much as a car mechanic. First time of encountering this Polaris from my friend. I was able to run the year stocked polaris by changing battery and fuel pump. Unfortunately, its not engaging and I'm suspecting the clutch belt. We'll see later once open.I'm a happy subscriber now. Keep posting more videos on this model. Thumbs-up!
Thank you for your time to make and post this video
I really enjoyed these videos
Awesome video! Very detailed. I appreciate it!
Great video, thanks for sharing
Great videos thank you !!
Thank you! Good video
Thanks, very informative
Love your videos. Very instructional. Looking to add a Polaris ranger lift in my home garage to do some of my own maintenance. What lift are you using?
I like how you skip past putting the cover back on to where ya have it lined up
Your videos are very helpful. I have a 2015 Polaris Ranger XP 900 and was able to remove the belt and clean and replace the Driven Clutch. However, I was not able to torque the Drive Clutch. I had the vehicle in High and someone depressing the brak. The clutch would spin and I could never get the bolt torqued to 43 foot/lbs. Why would this happen and what I can do to re-torque? Thank you.
Thank you!
Is there any special way to drive the ranger after you have installed new belt? Like keep it under 50 for the first 100 miles or something
thanks!
Thank u
i have a 2014 900 ranger xp with the downhill braking driven clutch. Is there much difference when removing it to the regular driven clutch?
3ron nope
The Grease zert is 3/8 not 10 mm.
So...I have a primary clutch on a used 2012 sportsman 500 that is catching, it starts to go in...stops...then suddenly goes in all the way. I am installing a whole new primary. The belt was just changed 5 months ago. So with a used belt...used secondary...but a NEW primary...what is the process? change the belt anyway? only scuff the new primary and use old belt? scuff both? scuff neither? Thanks.
Dev/Null no need to scuff, just wash your belt and let dry. I would replace the old belt. Polaris recommendation is to c/o belt every 50 hours, 1000 miles or 6 mo. Whichever comes first
@@Its_steve_bro Thank you for the reply. What i wound up figuring out was the buttons int he secondary were worn...causing my issue. So i did not need a new primary or new belt...just service on the secondary and all was good. Thanks again.
I just completed this process on my 17 ranger 1000 xp due to getting my old belt hot and glazed on the sides causing slippage now with the new belt installed it is bucking and jerking at low rpm’s during take off any ideas what would cause this?
Did you clean the sheeves with contact cleaner and a scotch brite pad? If the sheeves are worn and don't move in a fluid full motion, that would be the big one. In the vid I show how the drive sheeve should move with the spring removed. Does that help?
@@PartzillaParts yes I went back and cleaned everything better with brake parts cleaner and it cleared up thanks for the help !
What does putting it in drive and holding the breaks do in tightening the bolt?
Just locks down the pulley so you can tighten it, otherwise it will spin on you.
Eric Nawaz nothing.
Thank you so much i just fucked my shit up
No one has a 10mm socket.
A belt should not be this difficult to access
For anyone looking to do this on a 2013 900xp....This doesn’t work the same way. Clutch doesn’t come apart and it’s impossible to get the belt on without spreading the clutch. Better have a good pry bar then you have to be careful not to scuff or bend $500 aluminum clutch. Level 1 task (according to the video) for me turned into level 3 real quick. I’ve serviced everything on my ranger, installed led lights, installed a winch, rocker switches, changed out axles, boots etc.... this task isn’t easy. In fact, very difficult to get the belt back on. I’ll never do this again. Paying the pros next time.
they make a tool specifically for this, about $12 on amazon