"New" distributor complete with a chinesium distributor cap. I used to see a lot of problems the TFI moduals in those years causing rough run and surging. It doesn't seem to matter weather you change the oil or not on a 300 6. They just keep going.
Hey brother love and peace from Mount Shasta California to you in the great Anchorage Alaska. This is what I think of you and your videos... You should have your own mainstream television show. You're a brilliant technician with the ability to articulate and express yourself in a very easy to understand, down to earth, pleasant way. Two thumbs aaaand two toes up!!!
Same thing is happening to my 85 ford tbird v6 Put it new, cap, rotor and TFI module. You are right, the reman cardone dist was junk and didn’t help. The bad thing is I cannot find a new distributor for it. Runs and sounds fine when spout connector unattached.
Hello, nice videos , Do you know if in a 88 e150 5.8 econoline the distributor can cause turn off inmediatly after a 30 miles trip every time that the car stops.? Thanks
My trouble started with vacuum. It's a 90 F350. I had (idle) trouble out of the arse.. High.. Always have to kick it down to bring it down after stopping. I done all the thing these video say to do, and got NOTHING SOLVED. Chasing everything down, I ended up with an Ignition control module trouble. CHANGED.. helped on running. And a backfire I was getting after the others. Not idle though. Still drinking fuel like a drunk drinks beer. I also had brake trouble. Well.. After changing the brake BOOSTER.. I ended up fixing the idle trouble. Purrs like a kitten now.. But hesitation is there on take off, making me fan throttle to stay going. Or it will die out.. Leading me to here..
I got a 86 f150 with a 302 and its normal at idle and accelerating right up to 45mph , then it sputters and shakes feels like it has no power . It wont go any fastter than about 50mph ,I let of the pedal and its normall again , has new plugs good wires and a edelbrock 4 barrel that we have messed with the screws over time , how can i fix this or what would be recomended any tips would be useful thank you
I own two of them.... An F-150 and an F250 the F-150 has been having some serious issues with it bogging down and not wanting to run run right when the engine is warm... When it comes time to shift into 2 and 3rd. The RPMs drop and it starts to stall.... I can manually shift it. Around the same time I started having this problem the tachometer also stopped working. I had some mechanics look at it but they will not touch OBD 1 I've only met one mechanic who will even work on something this old and he couldn't figure out what the problem was
Nice video Tim! That's a blast from the past PIP & SPOUT and checking base timing and what is this dwell meter you speak of HAHA...still have my Snap-on dwell meter I bought in 1974.
I'm not sure either but when it comes to Toyota, Honda, or Ford parts. I've had the best luck with the factory parts. While most aftermarket stuff fits but doesn't work as well. That's for sensors or things bolted onto the engine.
Do the 460s have this same issue with the distributor and i was wandering can i run a vacuum advance distributor since my egr smog is all gone no 02 sensors and after market snorkel intake also i have midlength or long tube headers? Just curious if the vac adv distributor will take the timing control and nix the comp crap
Same problem on my 97 ford 7.5l liter runs excellent when I first start it but after it warms up it drags really bad motor and tranny are all rebuilt getting code 212 loss of ignition diagnostic monitor input to power train control module slash spark output and 628 excessive converter clutch slippage
Tim nice video thanks for making, I picked up a 87 f150 XLT lariat 5.0 302. It has 181,000 miles on it, but in really great shape. I own it about a month or so, and when I start it the idle goes up and down a few times then levels out and seem to be running fine. Then the other day I ran low on gas before switching over to front tank, and now truck is not running right seems like it's stumbling as I'm getting up to 20 / 25 mph it almost feels like I'm going down a bumpy road. Do you think this might be gas related problem or possibly the distributor. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
This was a nice relapse to easier times. I still have my dwell meter and timing light from the 70's when I tuned up cars using a "Sun" scope that was as big as that truck. :) Great diagnostic process on that one Tim.
A 1988 F150 5.0L TFI -IV Original PCM replacement , seemed ok. Problems again with poor acceleration, mechanic replaced distributor with a DST2880 made in China. OK for a month ,then , boom same problem. Viewed your video as and put a dwell meter on PIP wire with SPOUT connector in place. What ya know , 8 cyl should be 28°to 32° and the reading was : 58°. Back to the mech. who installed Chinese distributor!!! Dam It!
Follow up to first post is that the mech. put in another identical dist. and the dwell meter test showed failure of the second at 64° dwell. What the he'll is coming out of China???
Where can I buy a knock sensor for the 88 f150 5.0....... Would u know the part number... I've changed all the parts on my old does....when warm it bucks.......it has good days n bad days
If it has TFI-IV then on one of the six wires coming from the module. Find it first to be sure so you don't connect to anything else that might cause damage.
Man I'm not much of a Ford Lover but this Truck is in great condition or as u put it a Cream Puff lol.. It sounds great .. Great diag work Tim thank for sharing and caring
Mine runs great till weather get over 95 I'll see temp come up some then will start to act if it's running out of gas till it stop aand wont start running again to cooled off
I have a 1994 Ford f250 diesel truck. I forget what that motor is called but it is supposed to be the cream of the crop. It seems to run fine until it gets over 40 mph then it starts running rough like it's not getting gas. I was wondering if you could help?
Old video I know. I’m using a multi meter to measure duty cyle at the distributor and I’m getting 80-90% with the spout disconnected and ~100% with the spout connected both while the engine is running…am I measuring this right? Also is it normal to get duty cycle reading by just putting the test prongs in the engine bay close to the distributor without touching anything?
I have a 97 350 with the same issue cant find the dam problem it miss fire and floods out with normal driving o changed all injectors full tune up and still same.....any idea's...
sprayed car cleaner to check for vacuum leaks couldn't find any sounds like ignition component from your video...she runs so good cold and after she warms up she's sick....turning heat or ac "OFF" will make her run rougher or just die, please help
93 e350 hesitates on acceleration. Im assuming this is it. Something was nocked loose after driving up a gravel road uphill and shook the poor beast like a bolt in a blender.
Hi great channel I was wondering if you could help me with a hard problem I have on my truck. I have a 2010 F150 5.4L with 140K miles on it. It has a light throttle stumble or hesitation. It is hard to describe but I will do my best. It seems to start right after it changes into 3rd gear and it will stumble a bit on light throttle. It also happens in 4th I will be cruising a long and just lightly get on the throttle and it will kind feel like a misfire and an exhaust heat shield rattle from underneath which could be the catalytic converter making a rattle when this happens. If I give it more throttle its no problem or if I am not as light footed it is fine. When it happens it also makes a exhaust noise on the drivers side or close to it almost like a loose heat shield rattling or a loose baffle in the muffler type sound but it sounds like it could be coming from the cat on the drivers side but it only does it during this stumble. It has no CEL and has no problem driving highway speeds etc. The exhaust never rattles any other time. Things I have already changed in hopes to fix it. I changed all the spark plugs and all of the coils packs. All new. I replaced the air filter. Made sure all clasps are locked down and the feet are in the housing slots. Changed the oil checked all connections at coils and injectors. Used dielectric grease also. Cleaned my battery terminals and tested battery. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body. I removed it from the truck and cleaned every bit of it. I also did the relearn just like you showed. (jumper wire with neg. disconnected, 15 minute idle with everything off, then test drive) It still has this misfire or stumble. My ideas are possible clogged cat but no codes and it has no problem when give throttle or going highways speeds. Maybe something in the drive by wire throttle body,??? Any ideas or if anyone has had this problem before please let me know your thoughts. Thank you so much.
Hey Tim, Where did you get my truck? lol. I had a 1990 Ford F150 just like that. It had the same cap also. Sadly a guy runs a red light and totaled it. I had the same idling problem. I replaced everything you mentioned. including a new Sensor Map. (I Think that's the name of it). It's located on the passenger side fare wall. I put a new in. Still had the missing. I finally got a used map sensor. That fixed it. It was a great truck. That one has a great body. Is it for sale? lol. Great awesome video my friend. Thank you so much for sharing it. God bless you always. You are truly a good person.
I have a 1887 f150 v8 5.0 The truck turns on but it sounds like it’s going to turn off, then I accelerate for about 3-4 minutes and it gets warm and it’s good to go But when I’m driving it, if I accelerate to around 40 mph, the truck starts acting like it’s going to choke so I got to let go of the gas. If I step on the gas again it goes back to trying to choke and turn off and I can’t run the truck anymore. Got to stop Any idea what this could be??
Help!! I have a 2005 Ford Escape 2.3 4 Cyl 5-speed manual 209K miles..clean oil clean air filter..EGR code and O2 code...Runs great cold...even after warm runs smooth..but once you stop at a light and idle for more than say 20 seconds, it starts to idle real low and rough but never has stalled...If I rev it up as I'm always worried it may stall when I take off two times it did kinda bog down as I took off but made it home ok...only happens once fully warmed up say the first few miles of driving..One buddy hooked up his reader and said a MAP sensor but my reader dowes not show it..only the EGR which has been on for a year..I know I know..
I have an 88 f-150. I have had 3 distributors in it.All were remans. Anyway,The o.g. dist. went out. A local shop replaced it.When i got it back,it jerked while driving down the road. Jerked hard.They told me it was a bad dist. I got in back and it ran good. Still had a little skip every now and then.I drove it for a while.The skip turned into jerking and sometimes at lower idle,it would just cut off. Took it to my local Ford dealer.They had it several weeks.They ended up putting another dist. in it. It ran good for a while but now it is back to jerking hard(dead miss)and cutting off. I still think it is in the dist. Does anyone like MSD,Mallory make an aftermarket dist that will plug in like the og?
I have replaced coolant temp sensor, map sensor, iac valve and sensor, tps sensor, new fuel tank, pump, and filter, air filter valve cover breather and both filters in airbox, changed oil, induction cleaning thru brake booster line, radiator flush. She will act differently like she is glitching but after she's warm she will surge and then idle good but kinda rough then surge again and then it's just hit and miss idk
I have a 1995 F-150 4.9L with a random hesitation! It’ll happen randomly then snap out of it randomly! Whole ignition system is new, whole EGR system is new
I have had 3 ford trucks now with 360/390 enhines. 70's trucks. Exactly this issue and noone seems to have anything to share about my issue or even experience it. What is going on? A friend too and they all seem to have an issue with 2 barrel motorcraft carb or aftermarket replacement. Why is it that they start to spit and sputter and act like no fuel or not get fuel when they reach temp, then stall out and wont start for lik an hour? I just dont get it. I keep going through mechanics and noone can seem to fix the damn problem. Replace distributor, coil, fuel pump, ignition module, starter, the square thing inside fender with 4 tabs, everything. It's killing me. Just want to make some damn money already with my dump truck but it wont run good or stay running. I desperately need help. Replaced carb gasket, fixed mouse damaged wires, re-tightened carb bolts, adjust the timing, seriously what is the problem. I even rebuilt a couple carbs, check vacuum leaks, fix them as i find them. They dont all have the round choke piece on the passenger side. Either way its a problem i can get fixed every time.
I have a 94 4.9 the whole engine been rebuilt and still having issues when it warms up has no power and misfires but unplug spout runs ok I have replaced distributor 4 times but keep getting g them off ebay it runs great for a week or 2 and starts doing same thing just slightly at first but more I drive it worse it gets I think I keep buying dud distributors I get a check engine code for running to rich and misfires and exaust fumes are strong what would be a good brand ones I been getting are no name brands from ebay and I think that's my issue is cheap garbage part over n over
Pull the computer and open it, check all the capacitors, see if there are burn marks on the board, I am in the same position with my 89 E150, replaced my distributor because the cap was missing a tab to secure it, was broken off, then the nightmare began, was slow tho, from idling when warm issue, degrading down to where its missing so bad you just can't drive it, luckily you should have the distributor with the ignition control remotely mounted on the fender on a heat sink, black box, that will be your issue, mine is gray, mounted on the distributer.
Great looking old truck, must have been well cared for. purred like a kitten after your repair. 1987...wasn't that about when Ford had changed the mounting location for the ignition control module? My 1995 wants to surge when decelerating and stays around 1100 rpm until it comes to a full stop...then idles normal. I've thrown several parts at it but still has this problem. Thought that an old school mechanic like yourself probably worked on many of these old Fords could help.
wysetech2000 Changed the TPS also IAC and Temp sensor. Removed and cleaned throttle body. Used all OE parts. still surges when decelerating, and won't come off fast idle till vehicle comes to a complete stop. Thanks for your input.
I usually go topless during the summer but figured my viewership might go off the charts if I didn't cover as much of my manly one liter coke bottle figure as possible
This video is still helping people five years later great video my friend!
Thank you for the tip
Not a lot of mechanics have that equipment or experience in diagnosis of the obd1
The knowledge is all on the internet and oreillys has a dwell meter cheap
'87 ? no kidding damn that thing is in great shape 😲
Almost completely rust free!
"New" distributor complete with a chinesium distributor cap. I used to see a lot of problems the TFI moduals in those years causing rough run and surging. It doesn't seem to matter weather you change the oil or not on a 300 6. They just keep going.
I'm not a Ford guy, but the old in line 6 was a very good engine. Not a lot of power, but they last forever.
I got a 1990 4.9L i love that thing but its been rebuilt from backend to front end not the engine but the truck its self pretty much
Hey brother love and peace from Mount Shasta California to you in the great Anchorage Alaska. This is what I think of you and your videos... You should have your own mainstream television show. You're a brilliant technician with the ability to articulate and express yourself in a very easy to understand, down to earth, pleasant way. Two thumbs aaaand two toes up!!!
Same thing is happening to my 85 ford tbird v6
Put it new, cap, rotor and TFI module.
You are right, the reman cardone dist was junk and didn’t help.
The bad thing is I cannot find a new distributor for it.
Runs and sounds fine when spout connector unattached.
NAPA?
@@ThecardoctorTV Rockauto haha woooops!
From 4:08 to 4:24 you ain't lying there I've bought two reman Distributors from O'Reilly's and their garbage
Hello, nice videos , Do you know if in a 88 e150 5.8 econoline the distributor can cause turn off inmediatly after a 30 miles trip every time that the car stops.? Thanks
My trouble started with vacuum. It's a 90 F350. I had (idle) trouble out of the arse.. High.. Always have to kick it down to bring it down after stopping. I done all the thing these video say to do, and got NOTHING SOLVED. Chasing everything down, I ended up with an Ignition control module trouble. CHANGED.. helped on running. And a backfire I was getting after the others. Not idle though. Still drinking fuel like a drunk drinks beer. I also had brake trouble. Well.. After changing the brake BOOSTER.. I ended up fixing the idle trouble. Purrs like a kitten now.. But hesitation is there on take off, making me fan throttle to stay going. Or it will die out.. Leading me to here..
I got a 86 f150 with a 302 and its normal at idle and accelerating right up to 45mph , then it sputters and shakes feels like it has no power . It wont go any fastter than about 50mph ,I let of the pedal and its normall again , has new plugs good wires and a edelbrock 4 barrel that we have messed with the screws over time , how can i fix this or what would be recomended any tips would be useful thank you
I own two of them.... An F-150 and an F250 the F-150 has been having some serious issues with it bogging down and not wanting to run run right when the engine is warm... When it comes time to shift into 2 and 3rd. The RPMs drop and it starts to stall.... I can manually shift it. Around the same time I started having this problem the tachometer also stopped working. I had some mechanics look at it but they will not touch OBD 1
I've only met one mechanic who will even work on something this old and he couldn't figure out what the problem was
Knock not sensed during dynamic response test code 25r on a 88 f250 please help
EXCELLENT DIAG TECHNIQUE AND HELPFUL
Nice video Tim! That's a blast from the past PIP & SPOUT and checking base timing and what is this dwell meter you speak of HAHA...still have my Snap-on dwell meter I bought in 1974.
Well you know what i always say...No sense dwelling on the past, now is the perfect timing!
I see you are SPOUT'n off and dwelling on your PIP but your timing is off
What is the issue with reman distributors that causes them to also have the problem?
I'm not sure either but when it comes to Toyota, Honda, or Ford parts. I've had the best luck with the factory parts. While most aftermarket stuff fits but doesn't work as well. That's for sensors or things bolted onto the engine.
Do the 460s have this same issue with the distributor and i was wandering can i run a vacuum advance distributor since my egr smog is all gone no 02 sensors and after market snorkel intake also i have midlength or long tube headers? Just curious if the vac adv distributor will take the timing control and nix the comp crap
If you have fuel injection, you are doomed to the stupid distributor setup Ford designed
Same problem on my 97 ford 7.5l liter runs excellent when I first start it but after it warms up it drags really bad motor and tranny are all rebuilt getting code 212 loss of ignition diagnostic monitor input to power train control module slash spark output and 628 excessive converter clutch slippage
Can't figure it out no one can help me fix it
Spout connector?
Tim nice video thanks for making, I picked up a 87 f150 XLT lariat 5.0 302. It has 181,000 miles on it, but in really great shape. I own it about a month or so, and when I start it the idle goes up and down a few times then levels out and seem to be running fine. Then the other day I ran low on gas before switching over to front tank, and now truck is not running right seems like it's stumbling as I'm getting up to 20 / 25 mph it almost feels like I'm going down a bumpy road. Do you think this might be gas related problem or possibly the distributor. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Good evening. So you're saying the a big possibility for hesitation on a 85 F 150, could be a faulty distributor. I've done everything else. Thanks
This was a nice relapse to easier times. I still have my dwell meter and timing light from the 70's when I tuned up cars using a "Sun" scope that was as big as that truck. :) Great diagnostic process on that one Tim.
I worked with an old sun machine as well. It had a four gas attached and probably weighed in at 1000lbs..haha Blessings friend
A 1988 F150 5.0L TFI -IV
Original PCM replacement , seemed ok.
Problems again with poor acceleration, mechanic replaced distributor with a DST2880 made in China.
OK for a month ,then , boom same problem.
Viewed your video as and put a dwell meter on PIP wire with SPOUT connector in place. What ya know ,
8 cyl should be 28°to 32° and the reading was :
58°. Back to the mech. who installed Chinese distributor!!! Dam It!
Follow up to first post is that the mech. put in another identical dist. and the dwell meter test showed failure of the second at 64° dwell.
What the he'll is coming out of China???
@@Recipro1 china is all junk
Where can I buy a knock sensor for the 88 f150 5.0....... Would u know the part number... I've changed all the parts on my old does....when warm it bucks.......it has good days n bad days
If you keep it timed correctly the knock sensor will not come into play.
Where the spout circuit on the truck?
I have a 1994 Ford F-150
If it has TFI-IV then on one of the six wires coming from the module. Find it first to be sure so you don't connect to anything else that might cause damage.
Man I'm not much of a Ford Lover but this Truck is in great condition or as u put it a Cream Puff lol.. It sounds great .. Great diag work Tim thank for sharing and caring
Thank you!
My 1995 f150 6cyl developed a bad stumble on acceleration just changed the pump a week ago just developed this issue
You ever figure it out?
Mine runs great till weather get over 95 I'll see temp come up some then will start to act if it's running out of gas till it stop aand wont start running again to cooled off
Did you find a solution mine is doing this too
That temp prob. leads me to suspect the Coolant temp sensor or the PCM
EASY TO CHECK
I have a 1994 f150 4.9l when the speed reaches 60m / hr or 70m / hr in any climb the speed drops no matter that I press the acceleration pedal.
The same issue with my 1992 5.0
Amazin the thing is still in one piece! Thanks for vid
wow 87! must have been from texas….I was at chevy at the time prolblems with the magnetic shaft also good vid tim
I have a 1994 Ford f250 diesel truck. I forget what that motor is called but it is supposed to be the cream of the crop. It seems to run fine until it gets over 40 mph then it starts running rough like it's not getting gas. I was wondering if you could help?
Great Vid Tim. btw, welcome home.
Aloha friend!
Old video I know. I’m using a multi meter to measure duty cyle at the distributor and I’m getting 80-90% with the spout disconnected and ~100% with the spout connected both while the engine is running…am I measuring this right? Also is it normal to get duty cycle reading by just putting the test prongs in the engine bay close to the distributor without touching anything?
I have a 97 350 with the same issue cant find the dam problem it miss fire and floods out with normal driving o changed all injectors full tune up and still same.....any idea's...
i have same issue with 2000 4.6 manuel 4x4 .. fine until its warmed up.. then it hesitates when accelerating.. Any suggestions?
having same problem with a 94 f150 inline 6...all the stuff I'm doing is making it run better but still hesitating and surging
sprayed car cleaner to check for vacuum leaks couldn't find any sounds like ignition component from your video...she runs so good cold and after she warms up she's sick....turning heat or ac "OFF" will make her run rougher or just die, please help
😢
93 e350 hesitates on acceleration. Im assuming this is it. Something was nocked loose after driving up a gravel road uphill and shook the poor beast like a bolt in a blender.
As an old engine guy always used 35° to 38° for 6 cyl.
Check me on that!
Just using a standard claim in paperwork that state's the 35° for 6 cyl. practical stuff varies.
Why did you indicate to use a 6 cyl Position of a dwell meter on the car?
I have a 5.0 V8 , should I use the dwell meter settings for an 8 cyl. ?
Hi great channel I was wondering if you could help me with a hard problem I have on my truck. I have a 2010 F150 5.4L with 140K miles on it. It has a light throttle stumble or hesitation. It is hard to describe but I will do my best. It seems to start right after it changes into 3rd gear and it will stumble a bit on light throttle. It also happens in 4th I will be cruising a long and just lightly get on the throttle and it will kind feel like a misfire and an exhaust heat shield rattle from underneath which could be the catalytic converter making a rattle when this happens. If I give it more throttle its no problem or if I am not as light footed it is fine. When it happens it also makes a exhaust noise on the drivers side or close to it almost like a loose heat shield rattling or a loose baffle in the muffler type sound but it sounds like it could be coming from the cat on the drivers side but it only does it during this stumble. It has no CEL and has no problem driving highway speeds etc. The exhaust never rattles any other time.
Things I have already changed in hopes to fix it. I changed all the spark plugs and all of the coils packs. All new. I replaced the air filter. Made sure all clasps are locked down and the feet are in the housing slots. Changed the oil checked all connections at coils and injectors. Used dielectric grease also. Cleaned my battery terminals and tested battery. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body. I removed it from the truck and cleaned every bit of it. I also did the relearn just like you showed. (jumper wire with neg. disconnected, 15 minute idle with everything off, then test drive) It still has this misfire or stumble.
My ideas are possible clogged cat but no codes and it has no problem when give throttle or going highways speeds. Maybe something in the drive by wire throttle body,??? Any ideas or if anyone has had this problem before please let me know your thoughts. Thank you so much.
Let me know if you figure it out. So far, fuel filter, air filter, ignition coil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, FPR
Hey Tim, Where did you get my truck? lol. I had a 1990 Ford F150 just like that. It had the same cap also. Sadly a guy runs a red light and totaled it. I had the same idling problem. I replaced everything you mentioned. including a new Sensor Map. (I Think that's the name of it). It's located on the passenger side fare wall. I put a new in. Still had the missing. I finally got a used map sensor. That fixed it. It was a great truck. That one has a great body. Is it for sale? lol. Great awesome video my friend. Thank you so much for sharing it. God bless you always. You are truly a good person.
I had no idea this was your old truck, otherwise I would have told you about the stack of $100 bills I found under the seat...hahaha
OMG, Thats where I left that money, lol. No worries just drop it in the mail. lol,, Great video my dear friend.
Don't forget to change the points and condenser. Also adjust the carburetor. HaHa. Good old school repair.
Oh good call, haha
Even with points burned down to the brass, you can still drive it, this setup is insane, designed to fail
I have a 1887 f150 v8 5.0
The truck turns on but it sounds like it’s going to turn off, then I accelerate for about 3-4 minutes and it gets warm and it’s good to go
But when I’m driving it, if I accelerate to around 40 mph, the truck starts acting like it’s going to choke so I got to let go of the gas. If I step on the gas again it goes back to trying to choke and turn off and I can’t run the truck anymore. Got to stop
Any idea what this could be??
Did you ever figure out what was causing that?
@@kevind1154 never, currently the truck is garaged till I have some time after Christmas to fix it
Help!! I have a 2005 Ford Escape 2.3 4 Cyl 5-speed manual 209K miles..clean oil clean air filter..EGR code and O2 code...Runs great cold...even after warm runs smooth..but once you stop at a light and idle for more than say 20 seconds, it starts to idle real low and rough but never has stalled...If I rev it up as I'm always worried it may stall when I take off two times it did kinda bog down as I took off but made it home ok...only happens once fully warmed up say the first few miles of driving..One buddy hooked up his reader and said a MAP sensor but my reader dowes not show it..only the EGR which has been on for a year..I know I know..
I have an 88 f-150. I have had 3 distributors in it.All were remans. Anyway,The o.g. dist. went out. A local shop replaced it.When i got it back,it jerked while driving down the road. Jerked hard.They told me it was a bad dist. I got in back and it ran good. Still had a little skip every now and then.I drove it for a while.The skip turned into jerking and sometimes at lower idle,it would just cut off. Took it to my local Ford dealer.They had it several weeks.They ended up putting another dist. in it. It ran good for a while but now it is back to jerking hard(dead miss)and cutting off. I still think it is in the dist. Does anyone like MSD,Mallory make an aftermarket dist that will plug in like the og?
I have replaced coolant temp sensor, map sensor, iac valve and sensor, tps sensor, new fuel tank, pump, and filter, air filter valve cover breather and both filters in airbox, changed oil, induction cleaning thru brake booster line, radiator flush. She will act differently like she is glitching but after she's warm she will surge and then idle good but kinda rough then surge again and then it's just hit and miss idk
Holy cow... congrats on 45K!!! Good video... explains why!
Is this common with the 90 5.0?
I have a 1995 F-150 4.9L with a random hesitation! It’ll happen randomly then snap out of it randomly! Whole ignition system is new, whole EGR system is new
New does not mean there is no fault.
Check PIP signal from dist. and look at my previous posts.
Recipro1 every sort of the ignition system is new, EGR system is new, Fuek pump is new soon to have bigger injectors
Mine is exactly same.
It come and goes and I don’t know more what to do.
Please some one help us.
@@ffassheber I found out 2 capacitors in my computer were bad I replaced it with a new one and now the hesitation is gone but I have BAD ignition ping
Thank you so much.. I stumbled on to this video, and after changing a bunch of parts this was the magic bullet that fixed my problem. :)
Did your truck used to sputter and lose power til it die when it was hot? Plz let me know i am having the same problem...
What is this "distributor" you speak of? ;). Hey Tim!
Its pronounced Disributor, it was invented just before the wheel I thinks
Nice old ford
Ill run and idle fine but once I start driving it will be fine then start to lousing power and eventually start to crawl then stall out completely.
I have had 3 ford trucks now with 360/390 enhines. 70's trucks. Exactly this issue and noone seems to have anything to share about my issue or even experience it. What is going on? A friend too and they all seem to have an issue with 2 barrel motorcraft carb or aftermarket replacement. Why is it that they start to spit and sputter and act like no fuel or not get fuel when they reach temp, then stall out and wont start for lik an hour? I just dont get it. I keep going through mechanics and noone can seem to fix the damn problem. Replace distributor, coil, fuel pump, ignition module, starter, the square thing inside fender with 4 tabs, everything. It's killing me. Just want to make some damn money already with my dump truck but it wont run good or stay running. I desperately need help.
Replaced carb gasket, fixed mouse damaged wires, re-tightened carb bolts, adjust the timing, seriously what is the problem. I even rebuilt a couple carbs, check vacuum leaks, fix them as i find them. They dont all have the round choke piece on the passenger side. Either way its a problem i can get fixed every time.
Good video.
Thank you!!!!!
Good day The tip did not help, I own a chev. But did you 30,000 miles over oil change. Good video Thanks
Seems like given the mileage was well under 100K that the oil must have been changed sometime in the early 90's..hehe
What's the point of buying a new distributor if you aren't going to use the new Cap
Thanks Tim
My pleasure
WELL DONE 👍, THANK YOU
Thank you!
Great video tim keep up the good work 👍
Thank you so much, will do!
I have a 94 4.9 the whole engine been rebuilt and still having issues when it warms up has no power and misfires but unplug spout runs ok I have replaced distributor 4 times but keep getting g them off ebay it runs great for a week or 2 and starts doing same thing just slightly at first but more I drive it worse it gets I think I keep buying dud distributors I get a check engine code for running to rich and misfires and exaust fumes are strong what would be a good brand ones I been getting are no name brands from ebay and I think that's my issue is cheap garbage part over n over
Pull the computer and open it, check all the capacitors, see if there are burn marks on the board, I am in the same position with my 89 E150, replaced my distributor because the cap was missing a tab to secure it, was broken off, then the nightmare began, was slow tho, from idling when warm issue, degrading down to where its missing so bad you just can't drive it, luckily you should have the distributor with the ignition control remotely mounted on the fender on a heat sink, black box, that will be your issue, mine is gray, mounted on the distributer.
mine is doing this with fuel injection
Great looking old truck, must have been well cared for. purred like a kitten after your repair. 1987...wasn't that about when Ford had changed the mounting location for the ignition control module? My 1995 wants to surge when decelerating and stays around 1100 rpm until it comes to a full stop...then idles normal. I've thrown several parts at it but still has this problem. Thought that an old school mechanic like yourself probably worked on many of these old Fords could help.
not sure what you mean by "old school" but ill take it as a complement. haha. What motor is in your truck?
5.0 Windsor Truck has 80,000 miles. Owned it since new. Has the EEC IV OBD1
Seems most mechanics today are unfamiliar with this older technology
mikey mike
Did you throw a Throttle Position Sensor at it?
wysetech2000 Changed the TPS also IAC and Temp sensor. Removed and cleaned throttle body. Used all OE parts. still surges when decelerating, and won't come off fast idle till vehicle comes to a complete stop. Thanks for your input.
I know that plenum gasket near the front leaks vacuum quite often causing a similar symptom. Be sure to look at that.
Good
The last 87 F150 on the road!
How's it going .. are you familiar with bmw arround the 04 e46 models?
No. Haha. Don’t see too many of those around these parts.
I was going to say .. I live in anchorage lol
Lol. I have a friend who is factory trained BMW but he works at that new shop in the valley.
What shop is that? If you don't mind me asking .. in Wasilla?
Jenski Automotive, Palmer. ask for Jeremy
In in Fairbanks
hey man , you moving your hands like Donald Drump , I don't know if it's a good sign or bad one
I was making this Ford Great Again!
Make America Great Again 😊
We hold these truths to be self evident that all Men and women are created by Go you know the thing ~ Joe Biden ~
Hey.
Breaking out the long sleeve shirts already aye?
I usually go topless during the summer but figured my viewership might go off the charts if I didn't cover as much of my manly one liter coke bottle figure as possible
I go down 3 pounds up four pounds, trying to do that in reverse.