I was a tech at a large city's fleet management service center. I had access to Ford's TSBs. I have a 93 F-150 with the 4.9 I-6 and M5OD standard transmission. I've had it since it was 2 years old and this hesitation had been as issue when I had bought it. Early TSBs about hesitation, mentioned issues to be with the EGR valve and having the correct calibration valve on the engine. I went to Ford and got the correct EGR and it still had the hesitation. I came across a later TSB which is the same as covered here and changed out the throttle body gasket with Ford's updated piece. I still had a slight hesitation. As time and miles accumulated, it was time for some maintenance, so I went ahead and changed the plugs, dist. cap and rotor along with the coil. I use the premium brand of NAPA distributor cap, (actually the higher priced NAPA Echlin brand), because of the fact that it has the longer lasting and better performing brass terminals instead of aluminum terminals that other caps have, including Motorcraft. I did the minor tune up, this time I had 80,000 plus miles on the same original engine. It never has burned oil and at 80,000 miles, I was still living with the hesitation. I got sick of fighting the issue and just considered it as it being the so called, "Nature of the Beast". One day it came to me to change the plug wires, as it had been a while. I had been reading about the differences in plug wires in one of the Hot Rod magazines, so I got rid of the OEM stock style wires and made myself a custom, high performance set for the truck. You can't get pre-made high performance ignition wire sets for the 4.9 Ford I-6. Nobody makes them. I used the MSD 8mm wire wound type supression wires that have a much lower resistance per foot than any off the shelf sets including Motorcraft or any one else for that matter. I bought the wire in a bulk coil from Summit Racing along with the correct type of MSD terminals and boots plus a small terminal crimping tool made by MSD. In total the parts and crimping tool cost was very reasonable when compared with the price of those garbage pre-made sets. These low resistance wire wound wires are what are normally used for high performance ignitions. I made the new set and installed them. Presto! the hesitation was gone and hasn't returned after putting 60,000 miles on this wire set. I gapped the plugs to the conservative side of the factory spec and used regular copper element Motorcraft plugs. I hope that this may help someone out if they have tried the throttle body gasket replacement, (Which I do recommend), and may still have an issue with hesitation. The off the shelf ignition wires have a tremendous amount of resistance when compared with the wire wound performance type. I'm talking about something like 1000 ohms per foot vs. 75 ohms per foot. Another thing that some folks may find confusing is the difference between a sensor and a sender. A sensor sends information to the engine's computer and will have an effect on the engine's operation. A sender only sends information to the gauges and doesn't effect the engine's performance. It just delivers info indicating an engine's operating condition or the amount of fuel in the fuel tank. I found that if your 4.9 I-6 starts and then dies only to immediately restart and run normally after it has been driven for a period of time, then restarted, you may consider that the electric fuel pump is starting to show signs of failure soon. If the fuel filter needs changing, do so, but in most cases the fuel pump is starting to show it's age. I know that this was a long post, but I hope that it may be of help to some folks. These old inline sixes were originally designed for industrial purposes and have a good reputation for powering generators, irrigation pumps and industrial equipment of various types, world wide and their high nickel iron blocks will resist wear for many many operating hours and miles. The fact that they're so durable keeps me from getting another truck. Good luck to all.
Great comment! Working on a 93 e150 econoline, finally able to rev up since I cleaned throttle body, but as soon as I put into gear, it dies. Any suggestions?
Thank you so much for your information! My gasket was as you said , wrinkled and broke at top middle of it. My 95 also needed the TPS replaced to fix hesitation.
it should also be noted that low egr flow on these 4.9L motors will cause hesitation on acceleration. ....alotta times that blasted coffee can will rust out at the bottom leaving a vacuum leak at the egr...my gasket was trashed as well on my throttle body....thanks for the video it helped me out alot
+chris Rose No it wont. Because egr valve vacuum is designed to open at 1200 rpm up and not at idle or sudden acceleration. As far as leaking around the egr valve simply make sure your bolts are tight and rub perm number two around the outer area. Vacuum leaks suck in and not out
READ THIS. If you have an old Ford 4.9l with hesitation, it's an easy fix. 1. Delete both canisters on the passenger side under the hood 2. Delete the air pump 3. Delete the ERG 4. Delete the charcoal box next to the rad 5. Delete the two vacuum values on the side on the valve cover. * remove all vacuum lines connected to the things you deleted and cap them at the tree. If you get lost search on TH-cam. When Finished you should only have 3 or 4 things still on the tree AC, brake boost, fuel pressure and power steering. All this should only take 30 minutes. Now for the hard part drop the tank and delete the evap line, use a vacuum cap to cap it and put in a new fuel pump. When you are done. You will have a much cleaner engine bay and far simpler engine with only one thing left that can slow it down... still hesitant 6. delete the cats
This worked for me 100%. After replacing the head and the plenum gaskets on my 87' F-150 4.9L my idle was jumping all over the place, especially when I slowed down or came to a stop. When I removed everything, the gasket was all bubbled up, or wrinkled (as you point out at 9:30). Threw on a new gasket and replaced the IAC motor and she runs like a dream. Was even missing the vacuum lines on top and it didn't seem to even matter. One tip - put "4.9L" in the title of your video. Took me a while to find it. Thanks a bunch!
Did you find the "revised" gasket? I can't find that part number available anywhere, I bought a fel-pro gasket for the i6 but I'm not sure it's any different than what's going to be on it.
I have a 1994 f150 4.9L engine. I was changing the throttle body gasket which was really bad. I noticed just inside the intake manifold was lots of soot build up. I started scraping it out to clean it up a bit. about an inch inside the intake manifold where the throttle body bolts on there is a port that goes from one side to the other. it was so badly clogged at first i couldn't tell a hole was there. I took a 90 degree flat head screw driver and started to open up the port. I got it opened up from one side to the other,and the hole is about the size of your little finger. Installed a new throttle body gasket and the truck runs like new. replacing the throttle body gasket would have done very little without opening up this port. I thought this might help anyone who is changing the throttle body gasket to check this out before installing the new gasket.
Man thanks so much mine was wrinkled but im having 2 other problems out of mine its jumping when it tries to change gears but i can manually shift it and itll act right till drive and the alternator exiter wire not getting power
Hi, I've ordered the gasket and really hope this cures what is ailing my truck. One question, what was the torque wrench setting you used when you retorqued the nuts? Also, in looking at you other videos, I think we are "neighbors". I'm in Louisville but have family all over Hardin, Grayson & Hart counties! Thanks!
Just had this problem on my Escape V6 (Same car), fixed it by changing 2 faulty ignition coils and all the 6 spark plugs, on top of that they also cleaned the MAF sensor and flushed out the air intake system. Now the car runs very well.
A Ford Escape isn't even remotely close to the same car. A "Straight 6" is an "I" shaped block. A "V6" is a "V" shaped block. Sure, I guess they both have 6 cylinders and run on gasoline, but outside of that they literally have nothing in common.
I had hesitation issues on my1993 f15O 4.9 6 cylinder. I changed plugs and cap and rotor. Then changed the throttle body gasket. Nothing helped. I discovered the problem was the temperature sensor. The temp sensor on the goose neck housing the thermostat sends signal to throttle body. This senior has two wires on it, not one. It's right in plain view and easy to see when standing in front of the vehicle and looking in. There is another temp sensor for gauges and light etc. that has one single wire. The double wire sensor controls air fuel setting when acceleration occurrs. I would have never found the issue except for my radiator hose clamp broke causing the hose to come off the radiator. I repaired the hose and filled up the radiator with coolant. I then had no further issue with the vehicle acceleration and it runs smooth now! So I would check coolant level and make sure system is working correctly. In my case the coolant was low due to the hose leaking slowly over time. The sensor wasn't functioning because of low coolant.
Can you explain where the other temp sensor is? I have a 1991 f150 4.9 and I have only been able to find the one that is on the thermostat housing. I am trying to fix my temp gauge as it does not work at all so I am thinking this may very well be the problem. Thanks
+papachuck63 Sorry I was late answering. I used to keep a few gaskets on hand because it was a repair that people used to bring me often. That and ignition actuators.
I think my old truck is trying to tell me that it's tired. The check engine light comes and goes when it wants to and the transmission slams into gear as it shifts when it wants to. It doesn't do that all of the time. Any ideas? I am a paint and bodyman, not a mechanic.
Mine did that too, turns out to be the transmission cooler in the radiator was plugged. Burnt the tranny up. $1500 for a rebuild so I put a C6 in it, works great just cover the check engine light and your good to go.
My frend had an idle problem and it turned out to be that top solinoid you disconnected, although it was on a little Ford Ka car. Odd that gasket looked ok didnt it.
got a 2005 stx 5 speed.idles fine but going down the road it does okay but climbing up to 50 it acts like spark plugs are wet.already changed fuel filter recently but check engine light came on jiggled some wires now engine light is off still does same thing.
Great video man! I was going to also suggest the IAC motor, if you get a chance, take it out and clean it. On my 2001 Dakota, it is a common problem, and plays hell with our 4.7L engines. Sometimes they go bad also, as I am sure you know, love your videos brother, keep em coming!
I wouldn't remove a throttle body if the base gasket leaked. I would make sure the bolts were tight and then simply rub permatex#2 all around the outside and that will FIX IT. You can always fix a vacuum leak from the outside because it leaks from the outside first to the inside even on intake manifolds!!! Now if you are leaking coolant at your intake you cant fix that because it is a leak from the inside out which has pressure.
Why slop permatex when it's a nothing deal to r&r the gasket? I hate coming in behind somebody that fixes everything with silicone,duct tape or God forbid Edward scissor hands got ahold of the wiring harness. Fix it right once and be done with it
i got a 1990 f-150 with the 6 cylinder,4.9,,i just watch this video,,i went out there and put the throttle body off,,the gasket,looks bad,,i hope that is what wrong,,this truck is about to drive me crazy,,
Did this fix your hesitation problem? I've got a 92 F150 4.9L manual xmission which stumbles/bucks on light acceleration, low rpms after the engine warms up. I'm thinking some sensor, but I've done your throttle position sensor contact cleaning and changed out vacuum lines (also did the spark plug, wire, rotor, cap, ign coil, fuel filter change out). A ford forum talks about restricting the EGR path to fix hesitation.
i have a 1993 ford ranger with the 4.0 motor my truck has hesataion and at idle it idles ruff check engine light comes on wen i take it out of town at 55 mph it bogs down like it lost all it's power can someone tell me whats going on and there is black carbon buld up at the exust tale pipe
It would be hard to try to come up with a diagnosis; first it should be checked for possible codes because you could possibly have a bad oxygen sensor, a bad throttle position sensor, or a combination of things.
I wish that I could get the section that I typed in.Any Ford guys out there? I have a sensor on top left corner,right behind the temperature sensor,that no one can tell me what it is,or where to find it . It has 4pins but every sensor I find,only has 2pins.its a 4.9 6 cylinder,1994
Sorry so long but my just lost my mom last year an then month or two ago his younger brother died suddeny like my mom and that was always my trouble shootin team dads just tired of hearing it run wrong but its to solid truck to give up on for 86 model and only 22 or maybe 26 or 28,196 is actually all it has in miles and never left my home town since Henry Ford shipped it u know of any other TSB again sorry so long of explaining. But u sounded knowledgable enough an had just enough country swang i can understand sold Haley parts to fellow cldnt say shit with mouth full unless it was 100 mph thanks for any info Sir And as always God Bless u and urs
I'm having the same issue on my 95 f150 4.9 auto won't rev up high and won't go over 15mph it wants to bogg down most say it's fuel pump but I'm thinking other wise! Could somebody please help
I FUCKING HATE HESITATION ISSUES I HAVE ONE NOW, cleaned throttle body sensor Oxygen sensor Replaced sparks Coil Air intake Still I have the issue No diagnostic codes 🤬🔧 Maybe back pressure?
I had the same problem I fixed all the vacuum lines and replaced MAP sensor and got a new EGR valve as mine was rusted completely closed. Seemed to fix the problem. Quick test is unhook MAP and see if it doesn't die if it doesn't die thats most likely your problem
![1988 F150 Hesitation Problem [FIX!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-EihJ7hghXI/mqdefault.jpg)
![1988 F150 Hesitation Problem [FIX!]](/img/tr.png)
I was a tech at a large city's fleet management service center. I had access to Ford's TSBs. I have a 93 F-150 with the 4.9 I-6 and M5OD standard transmission. I've had it since it was 2 years old and this hesitation had been as issue when I had bought it. Early TSBs about hesitation, mentioned issues to be with the EGR valve and having the correct calibration valve on the engine. I went to Ford and got the correct EGR and it still had the hesitation. I came across a later TSB which is the same as covered here and changed out the throttle body gasket with Ford's updated piece. I still had a slight hesitation. As time and miles accumulated, it was time for some maintenance, so I went ahead and changed the plugs, dist. cap and rotor along with the coil. I use the premium brand of NAPA distributor cap, (actually the higher priced NAPA Echlin brand), because of the fact that it has the longer lasting and better performing brass terminals instead of aluminum terminals that other caps have, including Motorcraft. I did the minor tune up, this time I had 80,000 plus miles on the same original engine. It never has burned oil and at 80,000 miles, I was still living with the hesitation. I got sick of fighting the issue and just considered it as it being the so called, "Nature of the Beast". One day it came to me to change the plug wires, as it had been a while. I had been reading about the differences in plug wires in one of the Hot Rod magazines, so I got rid of the OEM stock style wires and made myself a custom, high performance set for the truck. You can't get pre-made high performance ignition wire sets for the 4.9 Ford I-6. Nobody makes them. I used the MSD 8mm wire wound type supression wires that have a much lower resistance per foot than any off the shelf sets including Motorcraft or any one else for that matter. I bought the wire in a bulk coil from Summit Racing along with the correct type of MSD terminals and boots plus a small terminal crimping tool made by MSD. In total the parts and crimping tool cost was very reasonable when compared with the price of those garbage pre-made sets. These low resistance wire wound wires are what are normally used for high performance ignitions. I made the new set and installed them. Presto! the hesitation was gone and hasn't returned after putting 60,000 miles on this wire set. I gapped the plugs to the conservative side of the factory spec and used regular copper element Motorcraft plugs. I hope that this may help someone out if they have tried the throttle body gasket replacement, (Which I do recommend), and may still have an issue with hesitation. The off the shelf ignition wires have a tremendous amount of resistance when compared with the wire wound performance type. I'm talking about something like 1000 ohms per foot vs. 75 ohms per foot. Another thing that some folks may find confusing is the difference between a sensor and a sender. A sensor sends information to the engine's computer and will have an effect on the engine's operation. A sender only sends information to the gauges and doesn't effect the engine's performance. It just delivers info indicating an engine's operating condition or the amount of fuel in the fuel tank. I found that if your 4.9 I-6 starts and then dies only to immediately restart and run normally after it has been driven for a period of time, then restarted, you may consider that the electric fuel pump is starting to show signs of failure soon. If the fuel filter needs changing, do so, but in most cases the fuel pump is starting to show it's age. I know that this was a long post, but I hope that it may be of help to some folks. These old inline sixes were originally designed for industrial purposes and have a good reputation for powering generators, irrigation pumps and industrial equipment of various types, world wide and their high nickel iron blocks will resist wear for many many operating hours and miles. The fact that they're so durable keeps me from getting another truck. Good luck to all.
great comment, very helpful!
William Charles
Mine had a bad ECM I put a remanufactured one on and it's fixed
Great comment! Working on a 93 e150 econoline, finally able to rev up since I cleaned throttle body, but as soon as I put into gear, it dies. Any suggestions?
Great information!
Albeit a few years late here's my thank you for sharing the TSB and related repair, it had a very thoughtful vibe.
Awesome thanks for sharing that information I’m new to Ford motors -1994 F-150 5.0 XLT Short bed
Thank you so much for your information! My gasket was as you said , wrinkled and broke at top middle of it. My 95 also needed the TPS replaced to fix hesitation.
it should also be noted that low egr flow on these 4.9L motors will cause hesitation on acceleration. ....alotta times that blasted coffee can will rust out at the bottom leaving a vacuum leak at the egr...my gasket was trashed as well on my throttle body....thanks for the video it helped me out alot
+chris Rose No it wont. Because egr valve vacuum is designed to open at 1200 rpm up and not at idle or sudden acceleration. As far as leaking around the egr valve simply make sure your bolts are tight and rub perm number two around the outer area. Vacuum leaks suck in and not out
that was a mistype i guess i was thinkin about that damn egr...and that cofee can was rusted out once i replaced it it cleared it up
thanks man. after chasing vacuum lines spark plugs fuel filters adjusting the timing and replacing the iac valve , this gasket was the culprit.
Wish I had checked this earlier. I just did all of the above as well.
There was nothing wrong with that gasket, but thanks for the demo. These things are very simple to work on.
READ THIS.
If you have an old Ford 4.9l with hesitation, it's an easy fix.
1. Delete both canisters on the passenger side under the hood
2. Delete the air pump
3. Delete the ERG
4. Delete the charcoal box next to the rad
5. Delete the two vacuum values on the side on the valve cover.
* remove all vacuum lines connected to the things you deleted and cap them at the tree. If you get lost search on TH-cam.
When Finished you should only have 3 or 4 things still on the tree
AC, brake boost, fuel pressure and power steering. All this should only take 30 minutes.
Now for the hard part drop the tank and delete the evap line, use a vacuum cap to cap it and put in a new fuel pump.
When you are done. You will have a much cleaner engine bay and far simpler engine with only one thing left that can slow it down... still hesitant
6. delete the cats
This worked for me 100%. After replacing the head and the plenum gaskets on my 87' F-150 4.9L my idle was jumping all over the place, especially when I slowed down or came to a stop. When I removed everything, the gasket was all bubbled up, or wrinkled (as you point out at 9:30). Threw on a new gasket and replaced the IAC motor and she runs like a dream. Was even missing the vacuum lines on top and it didn't seem to even matter. One tip - put "4.9L" in the title of your video. Took me a while to find it. Thanks a bunch!
Just did this today on my 93 4.9l I6. MUCH better driveability, no more bog/stumble to it. Great video.
Did you find the "revised" gasket? I can't find that part number available anywhere, I bought a fel-pro gasket for the i6 but I'm not sure it's any different than what's going to be on it.
@@Terminxman I used just a regular gasket for it.
I have a 1994 f150 4.9L engine. I was changing the throttle body gasket which was really bad. I noticed just inside the intake manifold was lots of soot build up. I started scraping it out to clean it up a bit. about an inch inside the intake manifold where the throttle body bolts on there is a port that goes from one side to the other. it was so badly clogged at first i couldn't tell a hole was there. I took a 90 degree flat head screw driver and started to open up the port. I got it opened up from one side to the other,and the hole is about the size of your little finger. Installed a new throttle body gasket and the truck runs like new. replacing the throttle body gasket would have done very little without opening up this port. I thought this might help anyone who is changing the throttle body gasket to check this out before installing the new gasket.
Man thanks so much mine was wrinkled but im having 2 other problems out of mine its jumping when it tries to change gears but i can manually shift it and itll act right till drive and the alternator exiter wire not getting power
I have changed everything and still have this problem, I just cannot understand why it is falling on its face when I go to give it gas
p.s. what were the torque settings for the nuts securing the throttle body? thnxs
Thanks i have a Ford F150 4 speed transmission on my motor buts its the same thing i am doing these pretty soon Thanks for the video
Hi,
I've ordered the gasket and really hope this cures what is ailing my truck. One question, what was the torque wrench setting you used when you retorqued the nuts?
Also, in looking at you other videos, I think we are "neighbors". I'm in Louisville but have family all over Hardin, Grayson & Hart counties!
Thanks!
1994 ford f150 5.0 liter v8 just starting out stepping on accelerator truck hesitates almost like a stall but then goes and drives fine. any ideas
Just had this problem on my Escape V6 (Same car), fixed it by changing 2 faulty ignition coils and all the 6 spark plugs, on top of that they also cleaned the MAF sensor and flushed out the air intake system. Now the car runs very well.
A Ford Escape isn't even remotely close to the same car. A "Straight 6" is an "I" shaped block. A "V6" is a "V" shaped block. Sure, I guess they both have 6 cylinders and run on gasoline, but outside of that they literally have nothing in common.
Thanks for your video is very helpful, but one thing you didn't mention about the torque on the carburetor nuts. Please reply to me is in emergency.
18 ft pounds
I had hesitation issues on my1993 f15O 4.9 6 cylinder. I changed plugs and cap and rotor. Then changed the throttle body gasket. Nothing helped. I discovered the problem was the temperature sensor. The temp sensor on the goose neck housing the thermostat sends signal to throttle body. This senior has two wires on it, not one. It's right in plain view and easy to see when standing in front of the vehicle and looking in. There is another temp sensor for gauges and light etc. that has one single wire. The double wire sensor controls air fuel setting when acceleration occurrs. I would have never found the issue except for my radiator hose clamp broke causing the hose to come off the radiator. I repaired the hose and filled up the radiator with coolant. I then had no further issue with the vehicle acceleration and it runs smooth now! So I would check coolant level and make sure system is working correctly. In my case the coolant was low due to the hose leaking slowly over time. The sensor wasn't functioning because of low coolant.
Harry Iafrare did you just have this issue on warm starts or every time?
Can you explain where the other temp sensor is? I have a 1991 f150 4.9 and I have only been able to find the one that is on the thermostat housing. I am trying to fix my temp gauge as it does not work at all so I am thinking this may very well be the problem. Thanks
Harry Iafrare
thanks for posting this, the gasket failed on mine too. It was a cheap fix.
+papachuck63 Sorry I was late answering. I used to keep a few gaskets on hand because it was a repair that people used to bring me often. That and ignition actuators.
.
I think my old truck is trying to tell me that it's tired. The check engine light comes and goes when it wants to and the transmission slams into gear as it shifts when it wants to. It doesn't do that all of the time. Any ideas? I am a paint and bodyman, not a mechanic.
Mine did that too, turns out to be the transmission cooler in the radiator was plugged. Burnt the tranny up.
$1500 for a rebuild so I put a C6 in it, works great just cover the check engine light and your good to go.
My frend had an idle problem and it turned out to be that top solinoid you disconnected, although it was on a little Ford Ka car.
Odd that gasket looked ok didnt it.
got a 2005 stx 5 speed.idles fine but going down the road it does okay but climbing up to 50 it acts like spark plugs are wet.already changed fuel filter recently but check engine light came on jiggled some wires now engine light is off still does same thing.
Great video man! I was going to also suggest the IAC motor, if you get a chance, take it out and clean it. On my 2001 Dakota, it is a common problem, and plays hell with our 4.7L engines. Sometimes they go bad also, as I am sure you know, love your videos brother, keep em coming!
I need to pull a a flywheel how do I pull a flywheel off
How do I pull a flywheel from a lawn mower Briggs & Stratton 18 horse
Pull a flywheel off 18 horse Briggs & Stratton engine
m
I have a idle problem on a 1996 you think could be the same problem?
I wouldn't remove a throttle body if the base gasket leaked. I would make sure the bolts were tight and then simply rub permatex#2 all around the outside and that will FIX IT. You can always fix a vacuum leak from the outside because it leaks from the outside first to the inside even on intake manifolds!!! Now if you are leaking coolant at your intake you cant fix that because it is a leak from the inside out which has pressure.
Why slop permatex when it's a nothing deal to r&r the gasket? I hate coming in behind somebody that fixes everything with silicone,duct tape or God forbid Edward scissor hands got ahold of the wiring harness. Fix it right once and be done with it
@@davidreynolds4684 MUTED
what is that black cable next to the yellow throttle cable? i just bought mine used and it only has the yellow cable
It’s either a cruise control cable or an automatic transmission detent cable.
Anyone ever tell you that you sound like Dwight Yoakam in Sling Blade? 😂
Right
i got a 1990 f-150 with the 6 cylinder,4.9,,i just watch this video,,i went out there and put the throttle body off,,the gasket,looks bad,,i hope that is what wrong,,this truck is about to drive me crazy,,
Did this fix your hesitation problem? I've got a 92 F150 4.9L manual xmission which stumbles/bucks on light acceleration, low rpms after the engine warms up. I'm thinking some sensor, but I've done your throttle position sensor contact cleaning and changed out vacuum lines (also did the spark plug, wire, rotor, cap, ign coil, fuel filter change out). A ford forum talks about restricting the EGR path to fix hesitation.
Jose Enciso throttle position sensor which connects to your transmission speed sensor it fixed everything on my 1991 Mercury cougar
You did not clean IAC ??? Very important with idle problem, 2 bolts out, and spray lots of throttle body cleaner!!!! have a nice day=)
i have a 1993 ford ranger with the 4.0 motor my truck has hesataion and at idle it idles ruff check engine light comes on wen i take it out of town at 55 mph it bogs down like it lost all it's power can someone tell me whats going on and there is black carbon buld up at the exust tale pipe
It would be hard to try to come up with a diagnosis; first it should be checked for possible codes because you could possibly have a bad oxygen sensor, a bad throttle position sensor, or a combination of things.
Thank you. Im having the same problem.
I wish that I could get the section that I typed in.Any Ford guys out there? I have a sensor on top left corner,right behind the temperature sensor,that no one can tell me what it is,or where to find it . It has 4pins but every sensor I find,only has 2pins.its a 4.9 6 cylinder,1994
Sorry so long but my just lost my mom last year an then month or two ago his younger brother died suddeny like my mom and that was always my trouble shootin team dads just tired of hearing it run wrong but its to solid truck to give up on for 86 model and only 22 or maybe 26 or 28,196 is actually all it has in miles and never left my home town since Henry Ford shipped it u know of any other TSB again sorry so long of explaining. But u sounded knowledgable enough an had just enough country swang i can understand sold Haley parts to fellow cldnt say shit with mouth full unless it was 100 mph thanks for any info Sir And as always God Bless u and urs
Dammmm this just might be what I need for a bucket truck I put outta service 5 yrs ago cuz no dealer or mechanic could figure out what was wrong
It's the MAP sensor.
whar about the 4.6 3 valve, any one has answers?????
I'm having the same issue on my 95 f150 4.9 auto won't rev up high and won't go over 15mph it wants to bogg down most say it's fuel pump but I'm thinking other wise! Could somebody please help
Colby Upton check your throttle position sensor it works everyone
Replace throttle position sensor
dose any body no about the computer for 1990 150 4.9 300,,,is the 5 speed transmission,,or a automatic transmission,computer the same,,
To the best of my knowledge they are different and you have to make sure you get one for your engine only.
Idk what ur hesitant issues was but I have put Snap-on©™ Modis®™ hoping it wld tell me something I was over looking but gotta 86 XL F-150 4x2 short bed small block 5.0/5.8 Fuel injected Automatic u crank it up runs great will idle til cows come home u drop it in gear ease on throttle ur good once u learn how to drive it but from idle to 3500 RPM u have to barely crack the fuel on it to get it to take it an actually pick up speed u cut ur self close on traffic and it will bout get my ass ran over if crowd the gas peddle least bit it will cut out and die like u killed fuel or fire its had new dist. Due to idiot not having since to remove gear and replace only was cheaper to get new with steel gear since Upgrade to a 4x4 Xtreme energy cam once sort thru this its also had new Lift pump in one tank and pressure pump on frame put out same if not better than new o.e.m. parts House replacement and upper intake and lower intake gaskets although i didnt do any of the said work except tell them firing order once done if i gave them wrong one 1st cld it backfire burp thru vac lines and create leak/more trouble
Dewayne Spradlin English please! Thank you.
I FUCKING HATE HESITATION ISSUES I HAVE ONE NOW,
cleaned throttle body sensor
Oxygen sensor
Replaced sparks
Coil
Air intake
Still I have the issue
No diagnostic codes 🤬🔧
Maybe back pressure?
Mine states and runs great. Then it warms up and dies. ☹️
I had the same problem I fixed all the vacuum lines and replaced MAP sensor and got a new EGR valve as mine was rusted completely closed. Seemed to fix the problem. Quick test is unhook MAP and see if it doesn't die if it doesn't die thats most likely your problem
Idle sounds high on the video.
That is the WORST sounding engine I have ever heard...
Too old she was put her down.