Michael - I’d desperately love to re-purchase my first pro camera - the mighty Nikon F3 with the MD-4, but geez, they’re pricey. Lovely video, mate. Hope you’re well.
Michael (or anyone) what's Purel (if that's how it's spelt)? I'm in Europe, so I expect it's a product you have stateside, but what exactly? Thanks in advance - I'm going to be trying this in the next weeks, so it's nice to see you doing the job and saying it's not too difficult.
Hello! Thank you for your comments. Purell is a name-brand hand sanitizer. It's not runny; it's more like a gel. I think any "gel" type hand sanitizer will work as long as it's unscented. I have yet to try a scented version, but I have read that it does not work well. You can use isopropyl alcohol or water, but they dry much faster, giving you less time to get the seals in place. I hope this helps! Have a great day!
@@ScottymanPhoto Thanks for the info. You're lucky that you have Hugo ready cut seals. I've looked around on the European marketplace and it seems it's easy to get the material, but not cut to shape (or not that I've found yet). I definitely need to put some seals in my Nikon FM, which when I looked almost seems it doesn't have any at all! Either they're so compacted you can't see them, or they just fell out years ago. I've seen a few videos where they suggest for the back seals, that no glue is needed as they should be tight enough just to sit in the slots (th-cam.com/video/bq0lukDo_vE/w-d-xo.html). Maybe that's what mine had? Thanks again.
@@cardboardmusic I have cut seal strips before. I recommend having a good straight edge, the right cutting tools, and a self-healing mat. I show how I did it at the 14-minute point.
@@ScottymanPhoto Brilliant, big thanks for your help (and inspiration to try myself). I just had a quote from my local photo shop which said they do the job for 60€, which to be honest isn't so bad (considering the material you need to buy for one camera). I'm going to see how easily I can get hold of the various pieces (seals and any other tools), and of it's too time consuming I know I have a back up solution. BTW, I was interested by the Yarn possibility. Do you know many people who've used it, and if so does it hold out, or is it more of a quick fix? What looks interesting (from what you show) is that it's easy and probably a very flexible material which can easily be replaced regularly. Any thoughts?
@@cardboardmusic That's a reasonable price! Unless you don't want to mail it out or do it yourself, It may not be worth the cost of tools and materials for one camera. I'm sure the shop will do a great job. Hope to see you out shooting with it soon.
Hey can you tell me what thickness is I need? I see a lot of the precut kids are from a single sheet. But some of the other kids say they include 1 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm.
What camera are you sealing up? Honestly, I don’t think you can go wrong with anything close to 2 mm. As long as the film back closes firmly you should be good. However, you don’t want hard to close. Hope this helps!
@@ScottymanPhoto Hey thanks for the quick reply! I'm doing one of these FE's. Actually it's an FE2. But I think the body is the same. And yeah that makes sense definitely don't want to put too much stress on the back door.
I have a Nikon FE and I am wondering why there is just a vertical seal at the hinge from the door and not on the other side where the door is closed. Is that normal?
@@Gemuesesuppen My apology for the late reply. Yes, that is normal for the FE. The door seal near the hinge is needed because the hinge tends to let in light. The seal by the latch is not a problem because it overlaps. Hope this helps! I’m happy to answer any other questions that you have. Thanks for watching!
@@ScottymanPhoto yes, recieved my second Roll of Film a few days ago and the small side border often ist completely white for a few cm. So i guess it is from a light leak from this side.
Wow! Should have have received that by now. I ordered a couple from eBay. One came immediately and the other took a couple weeks. Thanks for watching! Let me know if I can be of any assistance 😀
Yes, shortly after applying the sanitizer it will dry like it was never there. Just be sure to use UNSCENTED hand sanitizer. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching!
Hey, thank you very much for this tutorial! One question: purell isn't sold in my country, after a quick search it looks to be one of those glycerin based hand sanitizers containing alcohol. Is my assumption correct? :)
Yes, that’s correct. You should be able to use any hand sanitizer as long as it doesn’t have any added agents for scent or texture. I don’t think that would dry as well as the Purell brand. Hope this helps! Good luck and let me know if I can be of further assistance. Have a great day!
Super easy job! I replaced the light seals and mirror pad on my F3. I didn’t need any kit, used black yarn and sticky felt.
Nice! That felt trick is super easy! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
Very good liggt seal replacement video Good to watch for those still wiithg a failm camera.
There's only a little information out there on film. I hope this video helps!
Nice tutorial Michael , that was fun! I did ‘t even know they kits like that:) Gonna buy a self healing mat after this😀 Cheers
Thanks for the comments, Peter!
Michael - I’d desperately love to re-purchase my first pro camera - the mighty Nikon F3 with the MD-4, but geez, they’re pricey. Lovely video, mate. Hope you’re well.
Thank you, Peter! Hope all is well, my friend!
Michael (or anyone) what's Purel (if that's how it's spelt)? I'm in Europe, so I expect it's a product you have stateside, but what exactly?
Thanks in advance - I'm going to be trying this in the next weeks, so it's nice to see you doing the job and saying it's not too difficult.
Hello! Thank you for your comments. Purell is a name-brand hand sanitizer. It's not runny; it's more like a gel. I think any "gel" type hand sanitizer will work as long as it's unscented. I have yet to try a scented version, but I have read that it does not work well. You can use isopropyl alcohol or water, but they dry much faster, giving you less time to get the seals in place. I hope this helps! Have a great day!
@@ScottymanPhoto Thanks for the info.
You're lucky that you have Hugo ready cut seals. I've looked around on the European marketplace and it seems it's easy to get the material, but not cut to shape (or not that I've found yet).
I definitely need to put some seals in my Nikon FM, which when I looked almost seems it doesn't have any at all! Either they're so compacted you can't see them, or they just fell out years ago. I've seen a few videos where they suggest for the back seals, that no glue is needed as they should be tight enough just to sit in the slots (th-cam.com/video/bq0lukDo_vE/w-d-xo.html). Maybe that's what mine had?
Thanks again.
@@cardboardmusic I have cut seal strips before. I recommend having a good straight edge, the right cutting tools, and a self-healing mat. I show how I did it at the 14-minute point.
@@ScottymanPhoto Brilliant, big thanks for your help (and inspiration to try myself). I just had a quote from my local photo shop which said they do the job for 60€, which to be honest isn't so bad (considering the material you need to buy for one camera). I'm going to see how easily I can get hold of the various pieces (seals and any other tools), and of it's too time consuming I know I have a back up solution.
BTW, I was interested by the Yarn possibility. Do you know many people who've used it, and if so does it hold out, or is it more of a quick fix? What looks interesting (from what you show) is that it's easy and probably a very flexible material which can easily be replaced regularly. Any thoughts?
@@cardboardmusic That's a reasonable price! Unless you don't want to mail it out or do it yourself, It may not be worth the cost of tools and materials for one camera. I'm sure the shop will do a great job. Hope to see you out shooting with it soon.
Hey can you tell me what thickness is I need? I see a lot of the precut kids are from a single sheet. But some of the other kids say they include 1 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm.
What camera are you sealing up? Honestly, I don’t think you can go wrong with anything close to 2 mm. As long as the film back closes firmly you should be good. However, you don’t want hard to close. Hope this helps!
@@ScottymanPhoto Hey thanks for the quick reply! I'm doing one of these FE's. Actually it's an FE2. But I think the body is the same. And yeah that makes sense definitely don't want to put too much stress on the back door.
I have a Nikon FE and I am wondering why there is just a vertical seal at the hinge from the door and not on the other side where the door is closed. Is that normal?
@@Gemuesesuppen My apology for the late reply. Yes, that is normal for the FE. The door seal near the hinge is needed because the hinge tends to let in light. The seal by the latch is not a problem because it overlaps. Hope this helps! I’m happy to answer any other questions that you have. Thanks for watching!
@ScottymanPhoto thank you very much for the respone. I'll try to seal the side at the hinge first and hope that solves my problem.
@ are you getting light leaks?
@@ScottymanPhoto yes, recieved my second Roll of Film a few days ago and the small side border often ist completely white for a few cm. So i guess it is from a light leak from this side.
Can you send me a pic of the film? If you want, that is. I’ll have a look and give you my thoughts. Send to scottm@scottymanohoto.com.
Ordered my light kit from Hugo Studio almost 3 weeks ago. Haven’t received it yet though.
Wow! Should have have received that by now. I ordered a couple from eBay. One came immediately and the other took a couple weeks. Thanks for watching! Let me know if I can be of any assistance 😀
Great tutorial! I tried without the hand sanitizer and it always stuck to the side. So the sanitizer eventually dries and then the strip is fixed?
Yes, shortly after applying the sanitizer it will dry like it was never there. Just be sure to use UNSCENTED hand sanitizer. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching!
Hey, thank you very much for this tutorial! One question: purell isn't sold in my country, after a quick search it looks to be one of those glycerin based hand sanitizers containing alcohol. Is my assumption correct? :)
Yes, that’s correct. You should be able to use any hand sanitizer as long as it doesn’t have any added agents for scent or texture. I don’t think that would dry as well as the Purell brand. Hope this helps! Good luck and let me know if I can be of further assistance. Have a great day!
Ah, great, I managed to find a substitute, the ingredients are almost the same, so I'm confident it will work. Thanks again!
@@yoepvh9250 You’re welcome. Good luck!
@@yoepvh9250Hello….what have you found exactly….i have the same issue here 😊
Be very careful replacing the seal on the door. I broke my F2 with that one.
It can be a bit delicate.