Yesterday... 12/14/2023, I did this after watching this video. My Nikkormat FT N was needing some TLC because there were no remnants of light seals. It took me a while... slow and careful.... and it looks like it was a success! I put a roll through the camera today. Processing will tell the tale! I wouldn't have tried it without your very good video, Thank you!!
That's so great Mark!! Congratulations on bringing your FTN back to life. Let me know how the photos work out! I would love to see the results!! You can contact me directly here linktr.ee/jsollows Jim
Somewhere along the way I got a tip to spread a thin film of a gel type alcohol hand sanitizer on the new seal and the seal location just prior to installation. The gel nature makes it easy to spread and while still quite quick drying it gives you a bit of time to reposition the seal if you need to wiggle it around a bit. You need to let things sit just a bit longer to give the gel a bit more time to dry but once it' does dry the seal sticks as well as ever. It makes the installation process a bit less fraught. Great channel!
Yes it works but you have to be careful as many sanitizers have an oil component. Alcohol based hand sanitizers dry the skin so this is added to counter those effects. This can prevent your seal from sticking. In difficult spots I will soak the seal in 99% isopropyl. The adhesive won’t grab until the alcohol dries.
@jsollowsphotography yeah, I kind of screwed up on the thread - my local store only had linen or polyester, no cotton. I chose linen because it's 100% natural, but once I got the wrapper off I saw it was really hairy! I managed to solve the problem by coating the thread very lightly with adhesive, but I'll definitely put the time in to find some cotton yarn next time. I also had to resort to polyurethane sheets without adhesive backing, it's all I could find, but I managed to get a stick of dry adhesive which has done the trick. There was a slightly tense moment putting in the mirror-bumper with a set of tweezers, though!
Thanks for the clear and concise video! An experienced camera person such as yourself can get away without covering the shutter, but for most of us, it’s best to cover the shutter. A piece of film is too flimsy, in my opinion. I use an old credit card, cut to liberally overlap the shutter opening. I use masking tape to hold it down. I figure that the risk of damage from placing that protective cover is less than the risk of damage without any cover. If nothing else the cover will prevent flecks of sticky light seal residue from landing on the shutter curtains. You don’t want to have to clean those off! At 11:08 I winced. You made my point!
It’s a personal choice. I like to see the shutter so I don’t end up putting pressure on it. I learned that lesson the hard way many many years ago when I covered the shutter with a piece of paper! Your idea of a hard piece of plastic is vastly better than the paper or post it note method that many promote. The method I use for removing light seal material creates no loose flying debris so in decades of doing this, it’s never been an issue. I’m more cautious of the shutter when it’s not hidden.
For the mirror bumper i suggest to use a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol and just go only over the old seal to avoid reaching the focusing screen.
The mirror bumper almost always needs to be replaced. I don’t use a cotton swab because the mirror bumper is usually flaking off. I prefer to soak the mirror bumper with a fine syringe of 99% alcohol and then use a dental pick to peel the old bumper away. I like to do this holding the camera so that particles fall out of the mirror box and away from the focus screen. If I did it that way on the video you would not be able to see what Im doing.
The door comes off very easily. The screw you mentioned with the soft metal, slides in the slot, and presto the door comes off. It makes it much easier to work with the body of the camera, and door for that matter.
Yeah, it's not a screw, it's a lever. Most cameras have it, only very few older 50s/60s SLR's are without that feature. Cotton thread.....Best light seals for back cover.
This is perfect timing. I’m just about to replace my seals. My Contax 139Q calls for 2mm and 3mm thick foam at the door ends. What thickness of felt would that be? They make 2mm and 3mm felt but it’s hard to find it adhesive backed. I wasn’t sure it I needed thinner felt since it doesn’t compress the same way. The cotton cord is a great idea. After removing old foam I never want to use foam again. Thanks for a great video.
Hi Karen, use the 2mm it will be fine. I also shoot a Contax 139Q and have done several. In the video I show where the felt is applied to the door and I also showed the spot I had to clean where the old seal had left some residue. You can see it at 7:33 in the video. Put your 2mm foam in both spots and you will have absolutely no issue as the two layers of foam press together when the door closes. If you run into any difficulties, go to my web site sollows.ca/contact and use the contact page to send me a direct message. I'm happy to offer assistance. If you message me directly I can send you back photos of my 139Q with the seals applied. Jim
Personally, I like to tape a strip of negatives across the shutter area to just make extra sure that the shutter curtain or blades are protected from mishaps or slips while doing this.
I know what you are saying and Ive tried that in the past but it’s just waaaay too easy to miss judge the location of the shutter curtain since you can’t see it. You end up putting pressure on it causing damage. I prefer to have it visible at all time. Ive been doing it this way for 40 years on countless cameras without an issue
I recently purchased a nice PENTAX k1000 Camera on eBay. The seller said they replaced the Light seals. When I opened the Camera, pieces of the (new Seals) stuck to the Film Door cover. 3 or 4 fairly large chunks. I will be replacing them as you did and have acquired the 100% Cotton wool . Can you possibly tell me where you acquired your Syringe for the Alcohol?. Thanks for making this video. Evelyn
Hello Evelyn. Thats common if using Neoprene seals and they twist when being put into place. They end up in the channel sticky side up. As for the syringe, you can buy them on Amazon. Just search 3ml Syringe. They also sell hobby syringes with a blunt tip.
When you hear "wool" in the video, think "yarn." Cotton yarn. I wouldn't advise using wool yarn, unless you can store your camera in a cedar box or closet to protect it from moths. Otherwise, great video Jim; thanks!
@@jsollowsphotography Agreed, you do say cotton in addition to wool. Cotton and wool are different natural materials; yarn is a woven product that can be made of cotton, wool, polyester, etc. and is akin to string. The material I've seen recommended for replacing light seals is cotton yarn. As long as whatever you choose blocks light, is durable, and fits without overstressing the film door when shut it should be fine. I've seen the results of moths destroying wool carpeting and clothing, so considering the work required to replace light seals, personally I would pick a material that's less vulnerable to those pesky critters.
A while back, I purchased a Nikon F2 that had been "owner serviced". He had replaced the light seals with foam that was too thick and the back was difficult to close. As it turned out, I only had to replace one piece, but there is no way the seller didn't notice that.
@@jsollowsphotography Once upon a time, European cameras almost exclusively used the yarn. I do on vintage cameras, but precut foam is readily available for newer ones, so I use that..
a little confused- you state that it’s 100% cotton wool, is it possible that you mean that it’s 100% cotton yarn? I know the term wool is used like kleenex, but as you know cotton and wool yarns are not the same. Liked your video and now give me enough info to do it myself!! thanks!
Actually you shouldn’t have to remove the screw on the door pin my Nikon all I have to do is use pliers or tweezers on that screw and push that down the spring should push the pin down
I didn’t remove a screw. The door has a quick release. If you watch the video, the screwdriver was simply being used to point to where the quick release is located. I then use my finger to flip the release. Tools are not needed at all to release the door.
Yesterday... 12/14/2023, I did this after watching this video. My Nikkormat FT N was needing some TLC because there were no remnants of light seals. It took me a while... slow and careful.... and it looks like it was a success! I put a roll through the camera today. Processing will tell the tale! I wouldn't have tried it without your very good video, Thank you!!
That's so great Mark!! Congratulations on bringing your FTN back to life. Let me know how the photos work out! I would love to see the results!! You can contact me directly here linktr.ee/jsollows
Jim
Somewhere along the way I got a tip to spread a thin film of a gel type alcohol hand sanitizer on the new seal and the seal location just prior to installation. The gel nature makes it easy to spread and while still quite quick drying it gives you a bit of time to reposition the seal if you need to wiggle it around a bit. You need to let things sit just a bit longer to give the gel a bit more time to dry but once it' does dry the seal sticks as well as ever. It makes the installation process a bit less fraught. Great channel!
Yes it works but you have to be careful as many sanitizers have an oil component. Alcohol based hand sanitizers dry the skin so this is added to counter those effects. This can prevent your seal from sticking. In difficult spots I will soak the seal in 99% isopropyl. The adhesive won’t grab until the alcohol dries.
Fantastic explanation, especially about the mirror bumper. Just doing this job now on a Nikkormat FTN. Quite a therapeutic job!
@@eddyhoughton6542 The FTN is definitely worthwhile!! 👍
@jsollowsphotography yeah, I kind of screwed up on the thread - my local store only had linen or polyester, no cotton. I chose linen because it's 100% natural, but once I got the wrapper off I saw it was really hairy! I managed to solve the problem by coating the thread very lightly with adhesive, but I'll definitely put the time in to find some cotton yarn next time. I also had to resort to polyurethane sheets without adhesive backing, it's all I could find, but I managed to get a stick of dry adhesive which has done the trick. There was a slightly tense moment putting in the mirror-bumper with a set of tweezers, though!
Thanks for the clear and concise video! An experienced camera person such as yourself can get away without covering the shutter, but for most of us, it’s best to cover the shutter. A piece of film is too flimsy, in my opinion. I use an old credit card, cut to liberally overlap the shutter opening. I use masking tape to hold it down. I figure that the risk of damage from placing that protective cover is less than the risk of damage without any cover. If nothing else the cover will prevent flecks of sticky light seal residue from landing on the shutter curtains. You don’t want to have to clean those off!
At 11:08 I winced. You made my point!
It’s a personal choice. I like to see the shutter so I don’t end up putting pressure on it. I learned that lesson the hard way many many years ago when I covered the shutter with a piece of paper! Your idea of a hard piece of plastic is vastly better than the paper or post it note method that many promote. The method I use for removing light seal material creates no loose flying debris so in decades of doing this, it’s never been an issue. I’m more cautious of the shutter when it’s not hidden.
For the mirror bumper i suggest to use a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol and just go only over the old seal to avoid reaching the focusing screen.
The mirror bumper almost always needs to be replaced. I don’t use a cotton swab because the mirror bumper is usually flaking off. I prefer to soak the mirror bumper with a fine syringe of 99% alcohol and then use a dental pick to peel the old bumper away. I like to do this holding the camera so that particles fall out of the mirror box and away from the focus screen. If I did it that way on the video you would not be able to see what Im doing.
The door comes off very easily. The screw you mentioned with the soft metal, slides in the slot, and presto the door comes off. It makes it much easier to work with the body of the camera, and door for that matter.
Yes it makes it much easier. Most cameras don’t have that ability unfortunately.
Yeah, it's not a screw, it's a lever. Most cameras have it, only very few older 50s/60s SLR's are without that feature. Cotton thread.....Best light seals for back cover.
I, too, have an old Canonet Ql17 Giii that needs to go through this but luckily found a kit online for all the replacement seals.
The Canonet is great little camera. Enjoy!
This is perfect timing. I’m just about to replace my seals. My Contax 139Q calls for 2mm and 3mm thick foam at the door ends. What thickness of felt would that be? They make 2mm and 3mm felt but it’s hard to find it adhesive backed. I wasn’t sure it I needed thinner felt since it doesn’t compress the same way. The cotton cord is a great idea. After removing old foam I never want to use foam again. Thanks for a great video.
Hi Karen, use the 2mm it will be fine. I also shoot a Contax 139Q and have done several. In the video I show where the felt is applied to the door and I also showed the spot I had to clean where the old seal had left some residue. You can see it at 7:33 in the video. Put your 2mm foam in both spots and you will have absolutely no issue as the two layers of foam press together when the door closes. If you run into any difficulties, go to my web site sollows.ca/contact and use the contact page to send me a direct message. I'm happy to offer assistance. If you message me directly I can send you back photos of my 139Q with the seals applied.
Jim
Personally, I like to tape a strip of negatives across the shutter area to just make extra sure that the shutter curtain or blades are protected from mishaps or slips while doing this.
I know what you are saying and Ive tried that in the past but it’s just waaaay too easy to miss judge the location of the shutter curtain since you can’t see it. You end up putting pressure on it causing damage. I prefer to have it visible at all time. Ive been doing it this way for 40 years on countless cameras without an issue
I recently purchased a nice PENTAX k1000 Camera on eBay. The seller said they replaced the Light seals. When I opened the Camera, pieces of the (new Seals) stuck to the Film Door cover. 3 or 4 fairly large chunks. I will be replacing them as you did and have acquired the 100% Cotton wool . Can you possibly tell me where you acquired your Syringe for the Alcohol?. Thanks for making this video. Evelyn
Hello Evelyn. Thats common if using Neoprene seals and they twist when being put into place. They end up in the channel sticky side up. As for the syringe, you can buy them on Amazon. Just search 3ml Syringe. They also sell hobby syringes with a blunt tip.
@@jsollowsphotography Thank you so much!
By far the best video on replacing seals on the internet and I've seen a few. Thanks very much I'm about to do a Pentax MX. Regards Mark
Thank You so much for the kind words Mark!! The MX is a fine camera and definitely worth resurrecting! Let me know if you have any questions.
Is that a Clay sculpting tool that you used to press the Cotton down into the seal channels?
I’m not certain, it might be. Its one I was given a long time ago.
@@jsollowsphotography I like yours because it has a Needle cover
When you hear "wool" in the video, think "yarn." Cotton yarn. I wouldn't advise using wool yarn, unless you can store your camera in a cedar box or closet to protect it from moths. Otherwise, great video Jim; thanks!
@@betenoirproductions6062 Sorry I’m not familiar with the difference. I do say 100% cotton in the video.
@@jsollowsphotography Agreed, you do say cotton in addition to wool. Cotton and wool are different natural materials; yarn is a woven product that can be made of cotton, wool, polyester, etc. and is akin to string. The material I've seen recommended for replacing light seals is cotton yarn. As long as whatever you choose blocks light, is durable, and fits without overstressing the film door when shut it should be fine. I've seen the results of moths destroying wool carpeting and clothing, so considering the work required to replace light seals, personally I would pick a material that's less vulnerable to those pesky critters.
A while back, I purchased a Nikon F2 that had been "owner serviced". He had replaced the light seals with foam that was too thick and the back was difficult to close. As it turned out, I only had to replace one piece, but there is no way the seller didn't notice that.
I’ve seen that many times. The nice thing with the 4 ply yarn method is that if it’s too thick, remove it and peel out one of the plies.
@@jsollowsphotography Once upon a time, European cameras almost exclusively used the yarn. I do on vintage cameras, but precut foam is readily available for newer ones, so I use that..
Interesting video Jim. You make it seem much less intimidating!
Thank you! It really isn’t difficult. The mirror bumper is definitely the most challenging aspect. It’s easy to contaminate the focus screen.
a little confused- you state that it’s 100% cotton wool, is it possible that you mean that it’s 100% cotton yarn? I know the term wool is used like kleenex, but as you know cotton and wool yarns are not the same. Liked your video and now give me enough info to do it myself!! thanks!
Sorry I’m not a yarn expert. To me the balls that people knit with are wool but yes it’s 100% cotton yarn.
Ive got s Nikkormat FT that badly needs new light seals so thank you
They are easy to do. Message me if you have questions.
I am sitting with my Nikon FT-N knowing I will be doing this one day this week as well.
I see you showing off your lens on an unrelated video hehe
It’s one of my favourites for sure 👍
Actually you shouldn’t have to remove the screw on the door pin my Nikon all I have to do is use pliers or tweezers on that screw and push that down the spring should push the pin down
I didn’t remove a screw. The door has a quick release. If you watch the video, the screwdriver was simply being used to point to where the quick release is located. I then use my finger to flip the release. Tools are not needed at all to release the door.