Hey NaptownTuner, longtime subscriber, still waiting on that K04 build! Anyways, I’m really struggling with an issue I’ve been having with my hybrid K04 2010 Avant for over a year. I’m getting P0088 and P053F, it has a new LPFP, LPFP control module, HPFP w/ 034 piston, rail sensor, injectors, updated timing chain w guides/tensioners, AMC head, used exhaust cam from another CAEB, and I have no idea what’s going on. Do you have any ideas, I’ll pay you for your time. You don’t happen to service any areas of Florida :)
The fact you are willing to literally drop a sensor and record yourself trying to get it just for the sake of showing the whole process I can’t tell you how much we love and appreciate your content naptown ❤️❤️❤️ never stop
I see you replaced the orange with the black. They are calibrated for different measurements though, no? Everything I've read suggests so and say to make sure you're replacing with the same color. Thanks for your video!
Have p0088 18 a4 2.0t runs and drives good but at times would jus misfire for literally 1 second I had ran my car till it was basically empty and then the next day was driving and that fault came up any idea on what it could be ?
Hello. Thanks for your videos. I have someone wanting to give me a 2010 EOS. When you start it, it's pouring fuel from somewhere and coming out right under the crank pulley. I cannot really see where it's coming from, I just looked at it for a few minutes, way too hot here. But I'm going to get on it tomorrow. Any chance you have an idea what that might be? Coming from under fuel rail? Codes are 2293 fuel pressure regulator b performance And pending code P053F cold start fuel pressure performance Bank 1. I understand those are just from low fuel pressure most likely. Looks like I have to pull the intake manifold to get to the fuel rail and injectors?
Have you seen a p0088 in a 2010 cc with Tsi 2.0 fall on its face when you floor it kinda like it loses fuel then if you keep it floored it’ll start getting fuel back again an doesn’t go into limo mode is still fast just seems like it isn’t getting enough fuel on demand an the filter looks dirty. P0088 an p2293 pa12
I have a 2015 Tiguan 2.0 TSI 81k miles. It cranks but does not start. It kind of grabs but doesn't tart. I have spark, compression, timing is good, no codes, HPF rail pressure at spec. replaced fuel pump module, MAF sensor,. it has no vacuum leaks, removed PCV no ripped diaphragms, removed o2 sensor incase cat is clogged,. removed intake and connected rail to HPFP and all injectors are spraying, drained and replaced fuel. was able to start it with starting fluid and it was running for 30 seconds then died. I'm really lost here. After removing spark plugs they smell like gas and are wet. Immo no codes, key recognized, smoked the exhaust in case turbo failed and has massive leak but no leaks there. Smoked intake but no leaks there. Can a fuel pressure sensor cause it even though it shows good data? Compression a bit low (two cylinders at 130 and two at 150 but i figure its because of washed out cylinders).
Sure absolutely want to see how you got in there to unclip that connector, those D connectors are not easy sometimes and that is a tough location to get to, same with the coolant temp sensor. Ok prior to pulling the pressure switch did you need to bleed the high pressure fuel in the rail? Or was the car sitting cold long enough that the pressure decayed off? Did it burp a little on removal? keep em coming yes so true, you're my goto channel
You’re supposed to pull the fuel pump fuse and bleed off the fuel every time you take something off the fuel system but I always just let it spray. If it’s a customer car then you probably should because they could park it in their closed garage after a repair and smell fuel, I would always wash the engine instead of pulling a fuse to run the fuel pressure out. It didn’t spray much but sometimes is does burp a few times and spray a little wild having 1500+ psi on the high side or something close to that.
Hey Naptown Tuner, I have a 2014 Allroad B8.5 with 76,300 miles that is throwing the P053F and P0088 code after scanning it with the Ross-Tech VCDS. Is this the HPFP and high pressure fuel sensor going out or should I start budgeting for a timing chain replacement as well? Thanks for all your videos, I watch them before I wrench on my car.
Hey Dylan, I have the same exact thing going on with my 2010 B8 Avant for the last year. Nobody, including myself, is able to diagnose the issue. I’ve replaced every component in my fueling system and redid my timing chain with still no luck. Did you have any luck diagnosing the issue?
What's up Taylor...I'm waiting for a timing chain kit from FCP Euro which I plan on getting installed by an independent Audi garage near me. I already have the HPFP and will install that myself after the timing job. So far there are no check engine lights displayed just those two codes in the VCDS memory. There isn't much info on the P053F code on the internet. I can't believe no one has either had the problem or has a fix for the problem. I'll let you know in a week or two after getting the timing chain installed what the independent Audi garage says about those codes.
@@NaptownTuner so i was driving one day my 2015 audi a4 and all of a sudden my car turned off and i couldnt move it but i could turn it back on and the electronics in it work but the car wouldnt crank.. So im asking if it could be the alternator goin out im at around 90k miles on it???
@@andrewy23 crank no start, if it has no faults you can usually tell if the engine is cranking faster than normal, might have come out of time and bent valves
@@NaptownTuner it has alot of faults now since it cut off but idk if it was because it might have too much oil as well cause I found oil in the spark plugs… love the channel by the way
Did you find out whats wrong? Same thing happened to me my a5 shut off while driving and wouldnt start again the dash was flickering but wouldnt start you can hear clicking but no start. I tried a new battery and dash doesnt flicker anymore but car still wont turn on and when it does it runs for about 2-3 min and shuts off. The check engine and epc are on
Hi I having a problem with my 15 Audi A3 quattro I have the car in idle and it starts shaking until it dies,I wait around 15 min and it starts and I have it in idle for 10min and it dies again iwas making line to cross the border and I wait another 15 min and it starts again i drove it in highway 40 miles with no problem evething works fine this is the 3rd times that happens if you can help me please
HEHE Did your Granddad not teach you to put a piece of paper in the socket to act as a wedge to prevent the item from falling out? Thanks for the info.
My car is having low fuel pressure problems, my GTI has the TSI engine **its completely stock. Pulled out the code and it is the P0087 [000135] - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low (it has another code for the ambient temp senor but I think is not related). The car starts and drives normally, but when I accelerate to half throttle or higher, the car hesitates and feels like it's out of gas. THE PUMP DUTY CYCLE REMAINS AT 79.59% ALWAYS, WHETHER I ACCELERATE OR NOT, IT ALWAYS REMAINS AT THAT VALUE I have already tried the following - Two different HPFP from two MK6 GTI - Bought an LPFP - Bought a new 6.6 bar filter - Tried with two different fuel pump modules (the one that goes under the back seat) - Inspected the camfollower and it doesn't have any scratches. - Bought a new Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor At the shop they checked the pressure just before the HPFP with a gauge and they told me the pressure was within spec. At idle the actual pressure does match the required pressure. It only happens when I accelerate that the pressure drops quite a lot. Any ideas on how can I fix it?? Thanks in advance!
I’m not good with part numbers, make sure it’s the newest revision, sometimes you can call a dealer out of town and bother them with your vin even if you don’t buy. That way you know for sure the most updated part number it’s supposed to have. Sometimes dealer parts are actually worth it because it takes the aftermarket time to catch up if ever to the revisions
@@NaptownTuner Allright, I've asked my neighbour as he picks up and drops off cars for the dealership and get 10% off. Usually I check for the latest revision by searching ebay. Most of the time it works when selecting my specific vehicle.
If you have just a p0088 it’s a stretched timing chain. Replace the chain.
Hey NaptownTuner, longtime subscriber, still waiting on that K04 build! Anyways, I’m really struggling with an issue I’ve been having with my hybrid K04 2010 Avant for over a year. I’m getting P0088 and P053F, it has a new LPFP, LPFP control module, HPFP w/ 034 piston, rail sensor, injectors, updated timing chain w guides/tensioners, AMC head, used exhaust cam from another CAEB, and I have no idea what’s going on. Do you have any ideas, I’ll pay you for your time. You don’t happen to service any areas of Florida :)
@NaptownTuner I have a P008800 I put a brand new chain on and hasn’t really been driven much. Is it gonna be the things you said on this video?
And not a crankshaft sensor? Would a stretched chain cause your revs to drop for a sec whilst driving intermittently?
The fact you are willing to literally drop a sensor and record yourself trying to get it just for the sake of showing the whole process I can’t tell you how much we love and appreciate your content naptown ❤️❤️❤️ never stop
Great Video hang in there In sure with time your Vids will catch a stride. I'm rooting for you!
I see you replaced the orange with the black. They are calibrated for different measurements though, no? Everything I've read suggests so and say to make sure you're replacing with the same color. Thanks for your video!
Would also like to know the answer to this.
DUDE,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, YOU LOOK JUST LIKE KEVIN MAGNUSSEN THE HAAS F1 TEAM DRIVER 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
What size is that big socket you using?
Thanks for your videos, helpful. Esp the rants.
What size socket are you using?
Have p0088 18 a4 2.0t runs and drives good but at times would jus misfire for literally 1 second I had ran my car till it was basically empty and then the next day was driving and that fault came up any idea on what it could be ?
Hello. Thanks for your videos. I have someone wanting to give me a 2010 EOS. When you start it, it's pouring fuel from somewhere and coming out right under the crank pulley. I cannot really see where it's coming from, I just looked at it for a few minutes, way too hot here. But I'm going to get on it tomorrow. Any chance you have an idea what that might be? Coming from under fuel rail?
Codes are 2293 fuel pressure regulator b performance
And pending code P053F cold start fuel pressure performance Bank 1. I understand those are just from low fuel pressure most likely.
Looks like I have to pull the intake manifold to get to the fuel rail and injectors?
Have you seen a p0088 in a 2010 cc with Tsi 2.0 fall on its face when you floor it kinda like it loses fuel then if you keep it floored it’ll start getting fuel back again an doesn’t go into limo mode is still fast just seems like it isn’t getting enough fuel on demand an the filter looks dirty. P0088 an p2293 pa12
Is it the same for a 2012 3.2L?
Hey I have the problem where my car would have a long crank and then start and I have a code of p0016 and p052A could u help
I have a 2015 Tiguan 2.0 TSI 81k miles. It cranks but does not start. It kind of grabs but doesn't tart. I have spark, compression, timing is good, no codes, HPF rail pressure at spec. replaced fuel pump module, MAF sensor,. it has no vacuum leaks, removed PCV no ripped diaphragms, removed o2 sensor incase cat is clogged,. removed intake and connected rail to HPFP and all injectors are spraying, drained and replaced fuel. was able to start it with starting fluid and it was running for 30 seconds then died. I'm really lost here. After removing spark plugs they smell like gas and are wet. Immo no codes, key recognized, smoked the exhaust in case turbo failed and has massive leak but no leaks there. Smoked intake but no leaks there. Can a fuel pressure sensor cause it even though it shows good data? Compression a bit low (two cylinders at 130 and two at 150 but i figure its because of washed out cylinders).
Also replaced HPFP
Keep em' coming NT.
Sure absolutely want to see how you got in there to unclip that connector, those D connectors are not easy sometimes and that is a tough location to get to, same with the coolant temp sensor. Ok prior to pulling the pressure switch did you need to bleed the high pressure fuel in the rail? Or was the car sitting cold long enough that the pressure decayed off? Did it burp a little on removal? keep em coming yes so true, you're my goto channel
You’re supposed to pull the fuel pump fuse and bleed off the fuel every time you take something off the fuel system but I always just let it spray. If it’s a customer car then you probably should because they could park it in their closed garage after a repair and smell fuel, I would always wash the engine instead of pulling a fuse to run the fuel pressure out. It didn’t spray much but sometimes is does burp a few times and spray a little wild having 1500+ psi on the high side or something close to that.
I'm getting 2000 psi ... so if I change that sensor will it go back to like 90 psi
Hey Naptown Tuner, I have a 2014 Allroad B8.5 with 76,300 miles that is throwing the P053F and P0088 code after scanning it with the Ross-Tech VCDS. Is this the HPFP and high pressure fuel sensor going out or should I start budgeting for a timing chain replacement as well? Thanks for all your videos, I watch them before I wrench on my car.
Hey Dylan, I have the same exact thing going on with my 2010 B8 Avant for the last year. Nobody, including myself, is able to diagnose the issue. I’ve replaced every component in my fueling system and redid my timing chain with still no luck. Did you have any luck diagnosing the issue?
What's up Taylor...I'm waiting for a timing chain kit from FCP Euro which I plan on getting installed by an independent Audi garage near me. I already have the HPFP and will install that myself after the timing job. So far there are no check engine lights displayed just those two codes in the VCDS memory. There isn't much info on the P053F code on the internet. I can't believe no one has either had the problem or has a fix for the problem. I'll let you know in a week or two after getting the timing chain installed what the independent Audi garage says about those codes.
@@Dylan1471 Awesome, please do!
What happens if your driving your audi and it suddenly cuts off on u but the electronics still work after??
I don’t understand enough of the question
@@NaptownTuner so i was driving one day my 2015 audi a4 and all of a sudden my car turned off and i couldnt move it but i could turn it back on and the electronics in it work but the car wouldnt crank.. So im asking if it could be the alternator goin out im at around 90k miles on it???
@@andrewy23 crank no start, if it has no faults you can usually tell if the engine is cranking faster than normal, might have come out of time and bent valves
@@NaptownTuner it has alot of faults now since it cut off but idk if it was because it might have too much oil as well cause I found oil in the spark plugs… love the channel by the way
Did you find out whats wrong? Same thing happened to me my a5 shut off while driving and wouldnt start again the dash was flickering but wouldnt start you can hear clicking but no start. I tried a new battery and dash doesnt flicker anymore but car still wont turn on and when it does it runs for about 2-3 min and shuts off. The check engine and epc are on
I just replaced the timing chain 2 weeks ago
Hey bro I’m having a issue where my a4 won’t start Buh has hella crank … do you think this is my issue ? I have a code of p2294
Hi I having a problem with my 15 Audi A3 quattro I have the car in idle and it starts shaking until it dies,I wait around 15 min and it starts and I have it in idle for 10min and it dies again iwas making line to cross the border and I wait another 15 min and it starts again i drove it in highway 40 miles with no problem evething works fine this is the 3rd times that happens if you can help me please
I have a p0087 code
HEHE Did your Granddad not teach you to put a piece of paper in the socket to act as a wedge to prevent the item from falling out? Thanks for the info.
My car is having low fuel pressure problems, my GTI has the TSI engine **its completely stock. Pulled out the code and it is the P0087 [000135] - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low (it has another code for the ambient temp senor but I think is not related). The car starts and drives normally, but when I accelerate to half throttle or higher, the car hesitates and feels like it's out of gas.
THE PUMP DUTY CYCLE REMAINS AT 79.59% ALWAYS, WHETHER I ACCELERATE OR NOT, IT ALWAYS REMAINS AT THAT VALUE
I have already tried the following
- Two different HPFP from two MK6 GTI
- Bought an LPFP
- Bought a new 6.6 bar filter
- Tried with two different fuel pump modules (the one that goes under the back seat)
- Inspected the camfollower and it doesn't have any scratches.
- Bought a new Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
At the shop they checked the pressure just before the HPFP with a gauge and they told me the pressure was within spec.
At idle the actual pressure does match the required pressure. It only happens when I accelerate that the pressure drops quite a lot.
Any ideas on how can I fix it?? Thanks in advance!
I am getting the same. Did you get yours resolved?
I have the same issue, have you fix it?
No I haven’t solved it… maybe Naptwon Tuner can help us all 🤞🏽🤞🏽
@@mca9036 I think one or more injectors are messed up. I am replacing mine and will report back.
@@djkojack26 did you replace the injectors?I have the same issue. 2.0tdi p0087, replaced everything except the injectors. sometime I also have p0088.
For the algorithm. I know absolutely nothing about Audi or Vws
naptowntuner where is the fuel pressure tank sensor
Do you happen to have a part number at hand?
06J906051 (D)?
I’m not good with part numbers, make sure it’s the newest revision, sometimes you can call a dealer out of town and bother them with your vin even if you don’t buy. That way you know for sure the most updated part number it’s supposed to have. Sometimes dealer parts are actually worth it because it takes the aftermarket time to catch up if ever to the revisions
@@NaptownTuner Allright, I've asked my neighbour as he picks up and drops off cars for the dealership and get 10% off.
Usually I check for the latest revision by searching ebay. Most of the time it works when selecting my specific vehicle.