OK, well it shouldn't be this difficult to start. The important thing to remember is that the "electric primer" is only a valve, it relies on the pressure you have built up in the system by priming that primer bulb. Pressing the key in only opens the valve, which will do nothing if there is no pressure in the line. So, you are absolutely correct by priming up that bulb, and holding it vertically like that will help. Holding the key in like that (without cranking the engine) will allow extra fuel to flow into the intake until the fuel pressure is relieved, which is accomplished in a few seconds. While cranking the engine, its fuel/oil pump delivers extra pressure to keep the primer working when the key is pushed inwards. This engine has a feature called "quikstart", which was a crude attempt by OMC to compete with the fuel injected engines of the day. Quikstart raises the timing slightly so the engine can be started at its idle position using the primer when it is cold. This "feature" is oftentimes misunderstood by technicians as well as owners. But, you can hear quikstart "working" when the engine is started at idle in the water, RPM will be slightly elevated and the engine runs a little rough until it warms slightly and quikstart shuts off. Again, this is not the most effective feature, coupled with a lack of knowledge of how it works, usually leads to confusion and difficult cold starts. But, I have found it works pretty well in most instances. The reality is that once the engine starts using the primer and quikstart, it will probably have to be "feathered along" with a few taps of the primer to keep it running when cold. These engines are cold blooded, and will cough/sneeze/stall until somewhat warmed up withouth helping them along with the electric primer valve. All that being said, it is perfectly fine to start it "the old fashioned way" by partially advancing the throttle to help it start quicker and stay running when cold. So, if owners are doing "everything right", and the engine still is hard to start, there are some things to look for. First, the electric primer valve may not be working. If you remove the engine cover, turn the key to "on" and push it in, you should hear the valve "click". If not, there is a problem. But, even if the valve "clicks", that doesn't mean it is working properly. Another simple test is to push the key in to its prime position while the engine is idling, the engine should stall immediately. If not, or it takes a while to stall, there is an issue. Oftentimes, the little primer ports get plugged with debris, so the fuel can't flow well enough into the manifold even though the primer is working. To me, the old choke system was easier to use and understand for most people. But, at the time OMC was "trying to keep up with competition", admittedly this system didn't measure up... Hope this helps. Don
If you chose to start it the "old fashioned way" by partially advancing the throttle, be very careful not to over rev it, don''t let it run over 2000 RPM while warming up. You could damage the engine if RPM "runs away", and the engine warms up much quicker running as slowly as possible due to the way the cooling system is designed.
it relys on bulb priming pressure yes, but to only squirt fuel out when they key is bumped. that will stop happening after a few bumps. if you hold the key in even when the motor is warm, it will stall the motor so the fuel still flows when the key is primed, but just not at force.
@@ct1762 OK, well that makes sense, it stops squirting after a few key bumps cuz all the fuel pressure built up from the bulb is gone. The primer will keep on squirting when the engine is running because of constant fuel pressure from the fuel pump. And yes, those primer outlets are very tiny, so pressing the key in while running usually won't flood the engine instantly, and probably won't stall it if activated at higher RPM, unlike a conventional choke system
I really appreciate your video! We just bought an '87 bass boat with an '89 Johnson 200 GT. Now I won't have to get frustrated the first time we get it on the water. 😂
All good but you will have better results if you turn the key on and push the button in 10 or 12 times then turn the key as the motor drops in revs give it a couple more pumps, the choke solenoid only squirts fuel in when the button is pushed in...not continually. Ex OMC Tech👍
I have a 1999 2 strock 150 johnson ocean pro. Tuff motors!! One time I made a mistake by have my water hose out to screw it I the top and water running. Well I said to myself, I gotta connect my battery. Well I did that. Then prim my motor. Did that. Then start my motor. Did that. Ran motor. But guess what? My motor stopped running cause i forgot to screw water hose in!! The story is, make sure you always put your hose in first cause my mind likes to multitask and the you forget stuff...being in a hurry. The motor was okay but I burnt my pump up. Very close call. But I'll never forget my water again. I'm very meticulous about my stuff. But it happens!! Love my boat!!
the correct procedure: after pumping the bulb, push the key in 4-6x in the ON position. Crank engine. Done. your method im sure works, but accomplishes the same thing pushing the key in and out does and just takes way longer. not criticizing you at all, just that these primers are a different part # than the ones for the smaller motors, even though they look identical. these have alot more power to push fuel into the intake manifold/reed box. the v4 and below (crossflow) has the primer that is pushed in continuously when turning the key, as the motors vacuum takes over.
if you need to push it 4-6 times, your carbs are gummed up. i never push the key on mine and they 50% of the time starts right up even after our Canadian winters and no "winterizing" done to them. Otherwise, I'll push it once and it'll start right up if the first time with no push it doesn't.
@@PunkR0ckz09 the big V6 loopers always benefit from a little extra fuel squirted into the intake as they have an "extended crank" issue. CDI actually came out with a 12v battery powered power pack to virtually eliminate this issue. i know because i've installed a few for customers. but I always suggest pumping the key a few times as it absolutely improves cold starts. Smaller motors makes virtually no difference. what motor do you have? and we have crappy ethanol fuel. fine for running, but not storage. i always run synthetic fuel at 25:1 for winterizing. eliminates carb problems.
ok got it. Pump water in the bottom, and pump gas in the top. Roger. ha ha I just got a 200 yamaha so I am learning larger motors. I have never had over a 9.9 so this is all new to me. Thanks for the video.
Great info. got to try this method. after I fix the bendix I burned up trying to start it, after rebuilding at least on carb and checking the pulse limiters on the electric gas squirter system. Much more and I go to a 4 stroke.
Dang! That’s harder starting than my 97 evinrude 200 ocean pro. I used to crack the throttle but realized it was sucking too much air and would dump fuel out the exhaust when it would try to start. My procedure is: squeeze primer bulb until hard, push in choke for 10 seconds, after 10 seconds leave choke pushed in and try to crank it over. It usually fires up but if it starts to run rough push the key back in to choke it a little more till it smoothes out. Great reliable engines and tons of power!
your motor has a digital 10 degree spark advance done automatically. OMC designed it that way (called QuickStart) to eliminate the need for manual throttle advance. if it wont start without you giving it throttle, you have dirty carbs, a weak battery or starter, or your quickstart isnt engaging (bad power pack). could be pickup timing too low because the clear sleeve on cam roller rotted off as well.
Hello I’m just joining the evinrude/Johnson motor family I have a 1997 40hp vro and I will be trying this king forward to it as well. I’ve had the hardest time starting it.
The choke on these motors are actually a primer solenoid. It shoots fuel directly into the intake. If you are holding it in for more than 2 to 3 seconds, then it is probably flooding it. I always push it in for about 2 seconds then try to start. It would usually run for about 1 to 2 seconds. Then I would start it again without choking then it would start and remain running.
I was going to say the same thing. 10 seconds is flood territory for my 1987 Evinrude 175. It only needs a 2 or 3 second burst. And yes most of the time I need to crack the throttle if it's been sitting for a long time. A couple times I've been able to catch the idle stumble with another 2-3 second burst of primer, but I'm usually not fast enough and it dies. But my motor has other issues, so whatever.
Your primer should stay hard, you’re getting air in the fuel line. Replace the fuel line from motor to tank and fuel bulb that should solve your hard start problem
Every year running down my battery trying to get this beast started that first start of the year. This procedure worked!! Never knew this. Thanks again Roll Tide
My dad has a 2000 Johnson 150HP motor that came with the boat. It starts up like a dime. I've heard that starting the motor without water adds extra friction and causes damage.
If you replace the primer assy or rebuild it (very easy and cheap) you don't need to go through any of this. Mine was the same and now one 10 sec choke and busts right off.
tilt engine all the way down, squeeze primer bulb, disengage shift, advance throttle 1/4 way, have lanyard on, push choke in as cranking after engine starts hold choke in and feather it once engine starts to warm up and comes out of quick start and rpm drops a bit pull throttle back to neutral.
What prop size and pitch do you have I have same motor but a 2000 status 19 extreme I’m wondering your top speed? I been tweeting mine a bit just curious brother that you
I need to try your 10 second hold method on the choke. I only hold it in for like 3 seconds then turn it over and my johnson 115 is a bitch to start. I'm always running back there to prime the bulb.
Will try to do that soon. Make sure you have your carburetor at these initial settings. bit.ly/2faZY66 You can fine tune the carb once on the water under load.
Great tips. I have a 1999 225 HP johnson HO on a 21ft stratos SS extreme. And it’s soooo hard to start but runs great and fires immediately after the initial start. How is your holeshot?? My holeshot is absolutely horrible and always has been but it has great top end speed. So just curious if the hole shot is a common problem.
question... What rpm are you hitting at wide open? IT should be 5500. If you are not hitting it you may have a prop that is too large of a pitch. Every degree of pitch ads or removes 200 rpm. SO if you hit say 4800 rpm then drop the pitch about 6 degrees. You will get much better holeshot and the engine can work as designed.
Advance the throttle when cold starting… it advances spark timing and allows it to start easier for cold starts, this is a major point u missed in the”starting procedure”
this has Quickstart... a digital 10 degree advance. if the motor wont start with quickstart working, something else is wrong! these motors should never need manual throttle advance if tuned correctly.
I like your videos friend but the choke for ten seconds does nothing. When you pump up the squeeze ball it fills the lines with pressure., as soon as you push in the choke it dumped that fuel in a half a second and doe NOT refill or keep going. It is just a solenoid that is open or closed, it does not pump. Just squeeze the ball, hit the choke while turning the engine over. The fast start will kick in and it will just fire. The rest is not needed nor does it work. (My experience? 54 years and going as a marine mechanic and repair shop owner)
if u didnt have a hotfoot and ha a normal box set up the easy way to start a outboard is as follow 1. get the primer bulb firm 2.cold start lever all the way up 3. choke and crank soon as she fires pull cold start back to a high ish idle for 20-30 seconds and push all the way down this is how to start a 1970s merc 850 and if it works for the merc itll work for every other 2stroke out there
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
OK, well it shouldn't be this difficult to start. The important thing to remember is that the "electric primer" is only a valve, it relies on the pressure you have built up in the system by priming that primer bulb. Pressing the key in only opens the valve, which will do nothing if there is no pressure in the line. So, you are absolutely correct by priming up that bulb, and holding it vertically like that will help. Holding the key in like that (without cranking the engine) will allow extra fuel to flow into the intake until the fuel pressure is relieved, which is accomplished in a few seconds. While cranking the engine, its fuel/oil pump delivers extra pressure to keep the primer working when the key is pushed inwards.
This engine has a feature called "quikstart", which was a crude attempt by OMC to compete with the fuel injected engines of the day. Quikstart raises the timing slightly so the engine can be started at its idle position using the primer when it is cold. This "feature" is oftentimes misunderstood by technicians as well as owners. But, you can hear quikstart "working" when the engine is started at idle in the water, RPM will be slightly elevated and the engine runs a little rough until it warms slightly and quikstart shuts off. Again, this is not the most effective feature, coupled with a lack of knowledge of how it works, usually leads to confusion and difficult cold starts. But, I have found it works pretty well in most instances.
The reality is that once the engine starts using the primer and quikstart, it will probably have to be "feathered along" with a few taps of the primer to keep it running when cold. These engines are cold blooded, and will cough/sneeze/stall until somewhat warmed up withouth helping them along with the electric primer valve. All that being said, it is perfectly fine to start it "the old fashioned way" by partially advancing the throttle to help it start quicker and stay running when cold.
So, if owners are doing "everything right", and the engine still is hard to start, there are some things to look for. First, the electric primer valve may not be working. If you remove the engine cover, turn the key to "on" and push it in, you should hear the valve "click". If not, there is a problem. But, even if the valve "clicks", that doesn't mean it is working properly. Another simple test is to push the key in to its prime position while the engine is idling, the engine should stall immediately. If not, or it takes a while to stall, there is an issue. Oftentimes, the little primer ports get plugged with debris, so the fuel can't flow well enough into the manifold even though the primer is working.
To me, the old choke system was easier to use and understand for most people. But, at the time OMC was "trying to keep up with competition", admittedly this system didn't measure up... Hope this helps. Don
If you chose to start it the "old fashioned way" by partially advancing the throttle, be very careful not to over rev it, don''t let it run over 2000 RPM while warming up. You could damage the engine if RPM "runs away", and the engine warms up much quicker running as slowly as possible due to the way the cooling system is designed.
it relys on bulb priming pressure yes, but to only squirt fuel out when they key is bumped. that will stop happening after a few bumps. if you hold the key in even when the motor is warm, it will stall the motor so the fuel still flows when the key is primed, but just not at force.
@@ct1762 OK, well that makes sense, it stops squirting after a few key bumps cuz all the fuel pressure built up from the bulb is gone. The primer will keep on squirting when the engine is running because of constant fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
And yes, those primer outlets are very tiny, so pressing the key in while running usually won't flood the engine instantly, and probably won't stall it if activated at higher RPM, unlike a conventional choke system
I really appreciate your video! We just bought an '87 bass boat with an '89 Johnson 200 GT. Now I won't have to get frustrated the first time we get it on the water. 😂
Im from New Zealand i like your suggestions thanks
Thanks, this is probably the best procedure I've seen. The 10 sec hold works great. Mine start the first time after this procedure.
All good but you will have better results if you turn the key on and push the button in 10 or 12 times then turn the key as the motor drops in revs give it a couple more pumps, the choke solenoid only squirts fuel in when the button is pushed in...not continually. Ex OMC Tech👍
I have a 1999 2 strock 150 johnson ocean pro. Tuff motors!! One time I made a mistake by have my water hose out to screw it I the top and water running. Well I said to myself, I gotta connect my battery. Well I did that. Then prim my motor. Did that. Then start my motor. Did that. Ran motor. But guess what? My motor stopped running cause i forgot to screw water hose in!! The story is, make sure you always put your hose in first cause my mind likes to multitask and the you forget stuff...being in a hurry. The motor was okay but I burnt my pump up. Very close call. But I'll never forget my water again. I'm very meticulous about my stuff. But it happens!! Love my boat!!
Johnson outboards are a beast to crank.
the correct procedure: after pumping the bulb, push the key in 4-6x in the ON position. Crank engine. Done. your method im sure works, but accomplishes the same thing pushing the key in and out does and just takes way longer. not criticizing you at all, just that these primers are a different part # than the ones for the smaller motors, even though they look identical. these have alot more power to push fuel into the intake manifold/reed box. the v4 and below (crossflow) has the primer that is pushed in continuously when turning the key, as the motors vacuum takes over.
if you need to push it 4-6 times, your carbs are gummed up. i never push the key on mine and they 50% of the time starts right up even after our Canadian winters and no "winterizing" done to them. Otherwise, I'll push it once and it'll start right up if the first time with no push it doesn't.
@@PunkR0ckz09 the big V6 loopers always benefit from a little extra fuel squirted into the intake as they have an "extended crank" issue. CDI actually came out with a 12v battery powered power pack to virtually eliminate this issue. i know because i've installed a few for customers. but I always suggest pumping the key a few times as it absolutely improves cold starts. Smaller motors makes virtually no difference. what motor do you have? and we have crappy ethanol fuel. fine for running, but not storage. i always run synthetic fuel at 25:1 for winterizing. eliminates carb problems.
Nice tips thanks 🙏 My old 50hp Johnson does 33mph on a old and heavy Cajun Bass boat. Plenty of smiles per hour haha
ok got it. Pump water in the bottom, and pump gas in the top. Roger. ha ha I just got a 200 yamaha so I am learning larger motors. I have never had over a 9.9 so this is all new to me. Thanks for the video.
Great info. got to try this method. after I fix the bendix I burned up trying to start it, after rebuilding at least on carb and checking the pulse limiters on the electric gas squirter system.
Much more and I go to a 4 stroke.
Dang! That’s harder starting than my 97 evinrude 200 ocean pro. I used to crack the throttle but realized it was sucking too much air and would dump fuel out the exhaust when it would try to start. My procedure is: squeeze primer bulb until hard, push in choke for 10 seconds, after 10 seconds leave choke pushed in and try to crank it over. It usually fires up but if it starts to run rough push the key back in to choke it a little more till it smoothes out. Great reliable engines and tons of power!
your motor has a digital 10 degree spark advance done automatically. OMC designed it that way (called QuickStart) to eliminate the need for manual throttle advance. if it wont start without you giving it throttle, you have dirty carbs, a weak battery or starter, or your quickstart isnt engaging (bad power pack). could be pickup timing too low because the clear sleeve on cam roller rotted off as well.
That was excellent information. I was have the same issues until I watched the video and tried it. It worked flawlessly. Thanks
Hello
I’m just joining the evinrude/Johnson motor family I have a 1997 40hp vro and I will be trying this king forward to it as well. I’ve had the hardest time starting it.
The choke on these motors are actually a primer solenoid. It shoots fuel directly into the intake. If you are holding it in for more than 2 to 3 seconds, then it is probably flooding it. I always push it in for about 2 seconds then try to start. It would usually run for about 1 to 2 seconds. Then I would start it again without choking then it would start and remain running.
I was going to say the same thing. 10 seconds is flood territory for my 1987 Evinrude 175. It only needs a 2 or 3 second burst. And yes most of the time I need to crack the throttle if it's been sitting for a long time. A couple times I've been able to catch the idle stumble with another 2-3 second burst of primer, but I'm usually not fast enough and it dies. But my motor has other issues, so whatever.
Yes sir on that 2 second prime or it floods my 1997 150 intruder
Your primer should stay hard, you’re getting air in the fuel line. Replace the fuel line from motor to tank and fuel bulb that should solve your hard start problem
Your boat is so awesome
Every year running down my battery trying to get this beast started that first start of the year. This procedure worked!! Never knew this. Thanks again Roll Tide
War wagle
I have two of these and no matter how hard they are to start, they always do. Love these motors.
I have a Johnson Evinrude 115 V4 and its the same every time it takes many tries to get it going, but once it starts its good all day.
Thanks! Gonna try this method on my Evinrude 175 HP 2 stroke. 🤠👍
In my past experience is pump the bulb then push key in while cranking till lights off try it see what u think.
My dad has a 2000 Johnson 150HP motor that came with the boat. It starts up like a dime. I've heard that starting the motor without water adds extra friction and causes damage.
If you replace the primer assy or rebuild it (very easy and cheap) you don't need to go through any of this. Mine was the same and now one 10 sec choke and busts right off.
tilt engine all the way down, squeeze primer bulb, disengage shift, advance throttle 1/4 way, have lanyard on, push choke in as cranking after engine starts hold choke in and feather it once engine starts to warm up and comes out of quick start and rpm drops a bit pull throttle back to neutral.
How about fix a stiff steering in one ot them mine has two cables and I can find any grease seats anywhere please help mine 1995 johnson venom 225 hp
does this apply to a 1997 150hp with ficht also? thanks
What prop size and pitch do you have I have same motor but a 2000 status 19 extreme I’m wondering your top speed? I been tweeting mine a bit just curious brother that you
I have the exact same motor 200hp 1998 and it takes me 30 seconds to have it up running and off the trailer
Our Johnson 175 is only hard to start after it sits for the winter. During the summer weather, it starts on a dime
I need to try your 10 second hold method on the choke. I only hold it in for like 3 seconds then turn it over and my johnson 115 is a bitch to start. I'm always running back there to prime the bulb.
Could you do a cold start for an older pull start? I have an 18hp 59 Evinrude with added ;) fuel pump. Love your videos! Thank you!
Will try to do that soon. Make sure you have your carburetor at these initial settings.
bit.ly/2faZY66
You can fine tune the carb once on the water under load.
Thank you!!!!
Mine spins and spins no start. Very finicky. Ran fine a week ago. Stator replaced and batteries are hot. I think its flooded now ,,,,,,
Great tips. I have a 1999 225 HP johnson HO on a 21ft stratos SS extreme. And it’s soooo hard to start but runs great and fires immediately after the initial start. How is your holeshot?? My holeshot is absolutely horrible and always has been but it has great top end speed. So just curious if the hole shot is a common problem.
question... What rpm are you hitting at wide open? IT should be 5500. If you are not hitting it you may have a prop that is too large of a pitch. Every degree of pitch ads or removes 200 rpm. SO if you hit say 4800 rpm then drop the pitch about 6 degrees. You will get much better holeshot and the engine can work as designed.
My 93 200xp starts right up
Man my johnson gt starts up first crank everytime, hot or snow on the ground, 2-3 secs. And she's alive.
THANK YOU!
What should the compression be on these engines please let me know
Ideally 110-120 on all 6. Minimum of 90 with no one cylinder 10% different from the lowest
Oh, you pushed the button in 😮🥴
Advance the throttle when cold starting… it advances spark timing and allows it to start easier for cold starts, this is a major point u missed in the”starting procedure”
I gave it a little throttle
this has Quickstart... a digital 10 degree advance. if the motor wont start with quickstart working, something else is wrong! these motors should never need manual throttle advance if tuned correctly.
I like your videos friend but the choke for ten seconds does nothing. When you pump up the squeeze ball it fills the lines with pressure., as soon as you push in the choke it dumped that fuel in a half a second and doe NOT refill or keep going. It is just a solenoid that is open or closed, it does not pump. Just squeeze the ball, hit the choke while turning the engine over. The fast start will kick in and it will just fire. The rest is not needed nor does it work. (My experience? 54 years and going as a marine mechanic and repair shop owner)
I love those Johnson’s
My dad just got a boat, and it has a Johnson 150 HP motor on it. Fires right up without a problem.
if u didnt have a hotfoot and ha a normal box set up the easy way to start a outboard is as follow
1. get the primer bulb firm
2.cold start lever all the way up
3. choke and crank soon as she fires pull cold start back to a high ish idle for 20-30 seconds and push all the way down
this is how to start a 1970s merc 850 and if it works for the merc itll work for every other 2stroke out there
What year engine is that one?
1999 stratos. Powerhead has year 2000 on it. It may have had a new powerhead put on it at some point.
Having idling issues with my ‘99 175 wondering where to get carb upgrades or rebuild kits for this year.
North Alabama? I am from South Alabama.
Yup. Huntsville.
Sounds just like mine lol
What is top speed on that motor?
70s if rig is tuned right
@@thisoldoutboard so something must be wrong with mine, I only hit 55 any suggestions what it could be?
Waterlogged hull, motor height not right (jack plate), or low compression
@@thisoldoutboard thank you I’ll check those out.
@@thisoldoutboard whats is the proper height? Or is it different for everyone?
Regulador voltage & timer not works good
Sounds like more a pain In the ass then it’s worth. My mercury 2 stroke 150 crunk up after 1 hit after sitting through the winter without running
We’ve done this for over a year. Boat refuses to run except in the driveway. It’s afraid of the water. Jk
Do a compression test