If your car has this transmission don’t overlook the mass air flow sensor for some reason the computer takes input from that sensor and it helps shift the transmission. If your having issue look at the mass air flow as well
@@jahagafut yes mine too my MAF died on me and the transmission slammed into gear scared the crap out of me. Good thing I have scan tool saw the MAF was completely dead
@@ryans413 no code for me, but same, it would SLAM, I unplugged maf while running and nothing happened so I figured I do have a TCC Clutch circuit stored code though that might have been MAG related. Monday I put in shift kit, fluid and filter. I don't get the line pressure code just a bit of harder shift after a whole
Excellent videos and information. Been doing mechanic work for 34 years. Ive always shied away from automatic trans work, they intimidated me a bit, but you have great Info and videos I may take on the next one offered to me.
i recommend everyone stick a 1x1/2x1/4 neodmndym magnet onto the bottom of their pan. if you have the pan off, drop it into a corner. you will not believe all the grey metal clay that magnet collects. just the pressure of the fluid inside the trans will wear micro particles off the case and gears. it keeps the pillow switch, solenoids, and checkballs, valve body clean and free of junk.
Great video. The 4t65e is such a common GM transmission, but prone to failure with all the weak points. I have a 2006 3.9L Impala and sometimes I get the hard shift when cold, usually shifts smooth. I think I'll get new solenoids and the transgo shift kit next time I have the pan dropped and fluid changed.
How many miles do you have on it? I have an 07 3.9l with 100k that had long and clunky shifts, especially in the lower gears when it was hot. It greatly improved after I changed the fluid, but it still doesn't shift as well as i would like it to.
Thank you so much for making the video and taking your time to explain in such detail. Keep the vids coming sir your a true expert at your trade. Thanks again Wayne
I love when mechanics just dive in and automatically assume a p1811 code means theres trans problems...IT DOSNT!!! You can throw a p1811 code when there is a faulty throttle position sensor or paddle sensor...yes those can fail within range and not throw any codes...if you computor dosnt realize theres a problem with them its automatics going to default to p1811....for 75 bucks you can get both parts and replace them in 35 minutes...
I lucked out. Had code P1811 with harsh shifts, got more and more frequent. The short story: Had a transmission specialist go through it.....still had the 1811/harsh shifts. Thought it might be the solenoid. Transmission specialist told me to try the shift kit springs in the 1-2, 2-3 accumulators before jumping to the PCS replacement. This fixed the problem! Didn't have to pull the side cover and replace the PCS solenoid, but I have a new one on hand if it ever comes to that.
What transmission temp should a 2006 gxp 5.3 have max . I bought 2006 cheap but in decent shape with blown transmission . Had a local shop rebuild it the guy had a transmission shop for 40 years did a great job and added shift kit . I drove the car 500 miles in 85-92f day and trans temp got up to 217f And new fluid darkened so I changed all fluid with synthetic trans max and added big rv cooler in line with rad cooler also the rad was replaced with a new unit prior to replacing transmission and both fans work now temp is 180 f max . Would you be happy seeing 180 f or should I add a pusher fan to the car as well being an electronic tech I can easily add or make a temp sensor to activate the fan .
Search for a "transmission fluid life expectancy chart". It shows trans fluid life in mileage based on temp. I would be happy with what you are running now. I would change it 50-60k interval running full synthetic if you aren't beating on it to hard.
I've watched all your vids on these trans...i have a 2000 grand prix and it hard shifts ONLY when completely warm. I drove it yesterday in cold Virginia weather and it shifted fine. However in the summer it shifts hard pretty quickly. 165k miles. I think I'll do the all the shift solenoids soon. unless you suggest something else? Your vid is EXCELLENT! I've been sharing...THANKS SO MUCH.
Really informative! I bought a 2008 Impala 3.5L 2 weeks ago with 122,000 miles. The fluid was changed at 56,000 miles, and I changed it again when I bought it with Castrol Dexron VI. It was well overdue. The fluid was a dark color, and smelt burnt. It had an average amount of metal and black stuff on the magnet and bottom of the pan. I read that it was recommended to put upgraded magnets in the pan and on the filter. Naturally, I read this after I finished my fluid change! I notice that only like once every 10 times I drive it, if I am easy on the gas, it will rev to about 2,000 rpm then bang hard and chirp a tire. Wide open it shifts great. Also, sometimes when Im pretty gentle on it, it feels like it pauses between the 1-2 shift for a second or two. I didn't notice this until after the fluid change. Is there anything you recommend to prolong the life of these things? Thanks a bunch!!
Nothing really to be done once they start slipping. If you havent already you can reset the pcm by disconnecting the battery. Ideally I like to reset the taps shifting if any trans work is done or a good amount of fluid is changed out. Taps is computer adaptive shifting, the computer sees how much psi of fluid pressure is required to let the trans work without shifting to hard or slip. When you replaced the old gritty fluid with new slippery stuff the pcm is used to the gritty fluid and you could have slippage. Resetting the taps requires a higher end scan tool with that capability. In your case your clutches are prob worn out along with the input piston inner seal being worn causing intermittant slipping. You can add some lube guard and reset the taps, but you should start saving for a trans.
Good video I have a 2007 Chevy Impala SS 5.3 Liter V8 Automatc with 145,000 miles and the car spuratically jerks slighty when going under 35mph. Defenitly feels like its coming from the transmission. T- fluid is dirty so im going to drain and fill a few times. Any idea if this jerking is related to the shift selonoids? Thanks
My mom's Uplander with a 3.9L V6 Automatic does that as well. My car had a slight issue with it, but, it turned out to be a dirty air filter and grungy MAF sensor with the IAC valve issue and throttle plate was dirty. After replacing the air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor and IAC valve area before changing the IAC valve, the P1811 historical code went away and no jerks when accelerating, except for slight hiccups due to my exhaust leak issues (going to fix that), but no misfires.
(02 GP, 4t65e)I have installed a transgo shift kit, as well as added a trans cooler to try and bandaid the P1811 issue. I had the typical P1811 and hard shifts. This kept P1811 from ever coming back since the shift kit didn't let the accumulator absorb so much of the line pressure, but I can still feel the shifts slow down when fully warmed up. I went inside the side cover and replaced the pcs (and 4th clutch hub while I was there) to try and cure the problem(You have seen my video of the reassembly) Well that didn't really do it. The trans cooler keeps the transmission from ever reaching a high enough temp in the winter to get slow shifts, but warm weather is approaching and the shifts are slowing down again. Not longer than .6 though. I'm thinking there is something wrong with the boost valve/regulator valve in the valve body, although I noticed you did not mention that as a possible cause of P1811. I have heard of the valve wearing in the bore and causing pcs like issues. No other issues with the transmission, everything else checks out good. Minimal clutch material in the pan and no metal particles. Do you think the boost valve is the next most likely culprit?
Are you still getting the 1811? Are both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts slow? The PCS replacement fixes the 1811 most of the time (I would say as high as 90%) if you have slow 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. If you just have a slow 1-2 OR 2-3 shift you may have a clutch pack issue, accumulator issue or sticking/worn shift valve in the valve body. If you have 1-2 AND 2-3 slow shifts over 0.6 sec and setting the 1811 the PCS will more than likely fix it. BUT if you still have the 1811 and slow shifts after PCS replacement there are other causes: Dirty MAF Plugged trans filter or restricted flow. Pump issues AFL valve in channel plate leaking Pressure regulator/boost valve issue. Failure to reset tap shifts after repair.
m ph I'm no longer getting p1811. Every shift becomes slow as it gets warmer, including torque converter lockup and 3-4. Only when getting to normal factory operating temp. It never got to that temp all winter just about and never shifted slow. The new pcs made no difference to this issue. Unless I got a bad pcs. Or it was used but that wasn't mentioned in the amazon ad. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013FW5BI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It didn't come in the sealed GM bag, that's the only reason I'm questioning it.
Venturi2012 Whats your longest shift timing when it warms up? Anything under 0.60 sec I consider "normal". Ideally a 0.20-0.30 would be great though. You may either have to live with it or tear into it again. Check out the valve body, channel plate
m ph Unfortunately I haven't been able to check the times as the weather is just breaking and I have only driven it a long distance once in the warm weather. I would say even with the shift kit, they still get about .5 ish when hot. Now if I removed the shift kit this number would go to .8-1.0 I'm sure of it, and would be back to P1811. My shifts all winter long have been in the .2-.3 area, as I have monitored many times. This is such a temperature related issue. Before the shift kit, in the summer, if I turn on the A/C which keeps the fans on, I can feel the shifts get quicker. I would like to check out the valve body myself, it would be my fist time ever separating the valve body from the channel plate, but I'm sure I can manage with help and information on the internet. And just by paying attention to what I'm doing. Worse case, I can order a reman valve body from Tripleedgeperformance.com and call it a day.
I have an 06 LTZ 3.9 and just rolled 61,000 miles. It started yesterday (March 7 2015) with the clunk from start thing. Not all the time but on occasion. Trans has not been serviced. Are you inclined to think the input housing worn or do you think perhaps the pressure solenoid ? Car gets driven every day just not very far. Fluid level is correct and clean and no other issues with shifting etc. At least at this point. Don't want to believe the input bore is worn in this time but I guess anything is possible with these guys. Thanks for your thoughts.
The clunk from a start is almost always the worn input piston. Lots of stop and go driving causes more wear on it compared to a car that is driven on the freeway with minimal start/stops.
Great videos, they have been extremely helpful for me. I have a code for P0756 on my 4T65E and trans is in limp mode. I have replaced the shift solenoids, PCS, and valve body as well as clean the channel plate with brake cleaner. The trans seems to go from 1 - 3 just fine. In your experience will stripped splines on the 4th clutch shaft cause a P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance code? What is meant by the DTC when it flags after the PCM detects a "4-3-3-4 shift pattern"? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. It's a great running car but I'm about to get rid of it as I have done so much without any progress. Thanks again for your videos and help!
My trans move slow when I put it in drive I would have to apply gas to get it to coast normal, but in reverse it moves fine like it's not clogged.. I jus had my trans rebuilt new 4th clutch, new input piston. Basically all bad parts was replaced. The thing is b4 I had it rebuilt I really didn't have much pressure issues when it's in drive n off the gas. Weird
everthing is very expensive in canada. I opened up mine and found piece of metal on the bottom the pan. I am assuming that came from forward band. I did find broken forward band along with worn 1-2 band and drum. the forward band is 230 canadian dollars. crazy
I have 2004 montana and when i accelerate to 113km and keep pressing down the gas it will not go higher and the speed will start the drop down to 106km and it will starts to go back up to 113km and then the same thing happens. there is no engine light and when i use an OBD2 scanner nothing shows up, but when i slowly press the gas it can accelerate to speeds of 125km and not drop, but if i press gas harder after that it drops again, and when i get it to 120km and go to cruise control it is ok until i go uphill and then the same thing happens again. i have already changed all of the engine sensors, fuel pressure is ok, i have even changed things like the fuel pump and a lot of other things, i have changed the transmission oil and added in Lucas oil stabilizer. so what is the problem?
I got a 2004 Grand Prix gt2. I started acting up a year ago, driving 45mph and barely press gas to speed up the rpm gauage would fluctuate until I gave it more gas it would stop and shift normal. I bought new car and parked it and a year later I start it up, missfires when warm and would randomly die idling and when you drive it it will run up to 4000-4400 rpm and not shift and buck until you let off the gas and pressed it again gently. Pulled codes and replaced ICM, Crank sensor and coil packs. Drove car same problem, replaced a bad alternator that would charge at idle but cut out after 2500 rpm, problem still there and now I only get a pending crank sensor codeP0336. Is it possible trans problem ? Cats not clogged and car doesn't missfire at idle while revving it to the 4500rpm limiter which tells me fuel pump is probably fine too.
what about going from 1st to 2nd then quits puling turn off engine start back in low man shift then it change all gears till i cut it off again then restart
question to video poster- what would cause the input stator splines to wear down on this transmission ? I found one with that issue when converter was pulled off. it was a salvage yard trans they said was low mileage.
More often than not, when i need to accelerate quickly from a stop, i floor the pedal and the car acts as if im barely giving it gas. After about 4-5 seconds of this, the car begins to act normally and accelerates quickly. Does this sound like the pressure control solenoid?
I have a 1998 Buick Regal GS that has 125,000 miles I took of from a stop light and then it had enough power to make it it to a parking lot it turn on but won't catch any gear I already changed the fluid and filter and still nothing would there be a possibility that I could change the solenoids that it would work the fluid didn't smell burnt or wasn't that bad in color
Great job on the video. I have a question. I'm about to replace my solenoids in mine. Should I flush the fluid and change the filter as well? Seems risky to me. The car has 140000 miles on it. Fluid looks nice a pink and doesn't smell burnt or anything and is there anything else I should do why I'm in there replacing the solenoids.
If there is any hint of slipping of the trans, don't waste your time with solenoids. Just replace the trans or rebuild it. Drop the pan, put a filter in it along with a pcs. Reset the TAPS shift data and see how it does.
I own a 97 Bonneville SSEi. I hardly drive out of our small town. I found 3rd gear missing one day. very occasionally it will get 3rd on a down shift but as soon as I let off the gas its gone. Any idea's on what might cause this would be great.
I've watched your videos, great stuff on the 4t65e, my issue is i get code p0741 only at highway speeds, plus sometimes the tranny shifts very hard (it goes away if i turn the car off then back on) plus sometimes at highway speeds the rpms jump up and down. You think a transgo shift kit (accumulator springs) will help with this issue?? It's a malibu 07 72k miles. Thanks
Your videos have been very informative. I was installing this kit and I also have the ATSM manual. After removing the spacer plate (1 piece as you show in the video), I removed the black plastic pins and conical screens, and I don't know where to put them back on the new plate (the conical screens I found in the manual...I think) but the black retainer pins aren't covered. Could you tell me where they are supposed to go? Thanks
I really dont have a diagram in front of me. The black plastic push pin on the valve body/spacer just holds the spacer plate onto the valve body. It is along one of the edges, look for the small hole that does not go all the way through on one of the edges.
Does the Transgo Shift Kit also include a new TCC valve? I am have torque converter lockup errors where my 2005 Volvo XC90 with the T6 engine Will not stay locked up if I gently press the gas. I bought the shift kit and put the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs in as well as the Sonnax lube tube clamp. But I see in the paperwork in your video all kinds of other valves that I guess I never noticed. I did buy a Sonnax upgraded TCC valve and all new solenoids. But was wondering which TCC valve is best. Thanks.
i have a 97 buick ultra , my trans wont move it trys but just wont popped off the trans filter snd found a broke acumulator pistion pin broke can that cause the trans to quit ??
I have this trans with a shift problem, will not shift at all. At 55 mph it hits 3500 rpm to 4000 rpm no noise that I can here. Would a new shift kit with the solenoids fix this? Also when it get hot it will stall at a stop sign. Great videos you put up and thanks for any advice.
Hello, I would start by pulling codes. More than likely your trans is in "safe mode", in safe mode your trans will default to both shift solenoids off and full line pressure in an attempt to prevent or contain transmission damage. It keeps the car "stuck" in 3rd gear. If your trans is in safe mode Check the "trans fuse" in the under hood junction block. If its blown you will get no power to the transmission components. A sensor may have shorted or the harness may have chafed internally or externally if blown. As far as stalling when coming to a stop, your torque converter may be staying locked up. If this is the case the engine/transmission is coupled together and the transmission is stalling out the engine. Staying locked up could be caused by a bad torque converter solenoid, shorted wire, sticking valve in valve body, or bad torque converter. Hope this gives you a starting point. Is the car worth putting money into or are you looking for a band aid fix?
m ph, this is my sons car to get back and forth to school so its a keeper. We had the scan done at auto zone and the codes were P0742 and P0756. Not the 1811 code that I was expecting. Thanks for the advice you have some excellent videos.
2003 Chevrolet Impala LS 3.8l...Have not pulled codes, but had the filter and fluid changed recently. Shifted fine (better than before the change) for the last couple of weeks or so. Now it has started doing this weird clunk into gear from complete stops...intermittent. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't. Shifts good otherwise. Would just putting the TransGo kit into the 4t65e help that?
I've never put in a shift improver kit. I'm having the long, delayed shift from a stop, then it drops hard into gear. It improves when warmed up but doesn't totally go away. It has also gone into full line pressure on one occasion. I know this is the piston but I cannot afford a full rebuild this year. I'd like to bandaid it by installing this kit to improve the shift time. Hopefully relieving the problem for a little while. The instructions assume a total rebuild, but I'm just dropping the pan and replacing the filter. What parts of the kit are installed in the pan, just the parts around 4:00? And are all of the springs installed together as shown or are they shown as varying spring weights top choose from? Thanks for the video and the help.
Did you doing this help my car has been doing this on and off for 3 years now was considering the same just wanting to get a little more time out of it
Would the pressure cell annoyed’s keep a car from Goin Forwards because 07 impala it will go in reverse but it will not go in drive? is the valve body on the side of the transmission and can I get to the pressure Silla Noyd without taking a Val body off of there because I do not want to lose the check balls
Great Video very Informative on these common 4t65e problems,My problem is a little different with this same trans.First I have a 1998 GP GTP just replaced all 5 senors or solenoids and the car goes into gears and shifts fine ,but the problem I'm having is the Overdrive coming way to soon, when in Drive it want to lock in as low as 40 mph & lower with little acceleration. With heavier Acceleration a little long before it locks in around 55 or so,also when I step on it the downshift works fine unlocking & go but at lower speeds it will lock right back in.Anyone have any info on this or has had this problem before and corrected and could point me where to start would be a GREAT help.Thanks
Is there an issue with that? What do you think OD with lockup be at for speed? No vacuum modulator on that year, Correct? Shift timing uses many factors, VSS, TPS, Coolant Temp, Input speed sensor, MAF readings. Anything off can cause shift timing changes.
I have a 2007 Chevy impala 3.5 liter with 210000 miles, sometimes when its cold and I stop at a red light it sort of jumps or slips before it grabs 1 st gear . . I have changed the fluid at 75000 and at 150000. Should I change it again at 210000 or is something else wrong ? Thanks
Perhaps you can help me with my impala trans problem. I have a 2010 impala and the other day I was pulling into the day care to pick up my child and it made a clunk noise and then a noise similar to what older transmissions used to make when you put them in park before the car came to a complete stop. After that the front wheels were completely locked up. The car goes into gear because you can see the motor twist in the right direction of the gear its in but the wheels wont turn. Seems like there is something keeping the trans from releasing the wheels. Even in neutral i cannot get the car to roll. The tow truck driver had to drag the car on the flatbed. Is the tranny shot or would replacing those solenoids fix the issues. i also looked at the cv joints and they look good. I jacked up the car and turned one wheel and the other spun the opposite way like its supposed to. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Without looking at it and going off info given I would say the park rod is damaged. You may want to see if there is still a powertrain warranty on your car since its a 2010. The side cover of the trans would have to come off for a repair.
I have a 1996 Buick Riviera and when I put it in drive it goes into gear hard and shfts hard in all gears sometimes it jumps rps like it's slipping going down the hwy I changed the fluid and it fixed it for a while but after I changed the battery its doing it again what could be the problem dose it need to be rebuild?
I have a ,2005 Chevy impala, 3.4 , 4t65e, it very slow to shift from 1 too 2 , or sometimes act like it goes in neutral, but can stop an pull out again an it will finally shift if I go slow with it till that first shift too 2 then 3 ,4 , overdrive it does fine, what. Solenoids should I change.
I got a 2000olds intrigue w the4t65e no real issues except in summer months maybe once a week id get these hard one, two shifts. Shut off engine, wait a min start it back up and its fine . I got the shift kit abd ive been putting off installing it . Should i just do it ?
Today I was driving my gtp and out of nowhere my trans started shifting hard in every gear , so i parked it for ten Minutes and drove it again and it shifted fine ! What could be the issue ?
jmnic63 I had this issue after racing my car. if it does it again check the trans dipstick and if there's bubbles it just hit a gear too hard and out air in the fluid and it will take a minute to remove them.
If you shut the car off and the problem went away it's a solenoid problem. A mechanical transmission failure would not correct itself when the car shuts off. Online u can buy all for ur car under 100$ trans will not have to come out
i got a 2007 impala the car shifts fine but if you stop and put in reverse it wont move shut off and start back up put in reverse does fine then put in drive wont move shut off start back up put in drive does fine !!! help
A bad "solenoid" will show an error code with a Check Engine Light. If there were a default with the PCS Pressure control solenoid the PCM will default to full line pressure to try to prevent transmission damage. That would result in extremely hard shifts but you would not loose gears unless it was in "safe mode" in whick it would be stuck in 3rd gear. IF a Shift solenoid went bad it could default to starting out in a different gear such as 2nd OR 1st then would not upshift.
Your vids are great. I've had an occasional take off slip before I changed the filter and fluid on my 03 GP GT. No ODB codes are present. It still does the occasional take off slip, what would you recommend doing to remedy this problem?
Take off slip= From a stop the car occasinally slips then bangs into gear, then shifts into second gear. If thats the case the input piston or seal is going. Not really anything you can do about that. A Shift kit only effects 1-2 and 2-3 shift timing.
I have a 99 buick leasabre with no codes it shifts fine but if you take off from a start hard the front of the car shakes violently like the tires are hopping from lose of traction but they are not. If you put it in first manually it takes of just fine. Do you think changing the solenoids would fix this issue?
Really hope you still use this and can reply... i have an 06 impala that recently had the tranny replaced but now only reverse works, there’s no metal in the oil and i heard just replacing the valve body would work. Please help
John Farr Check fluid level first. It could be an issue with the input piston or input piston lip seals. Watch that video around the 6minute mark, that explains the issue
m ph Do you have a video on how to replace the seal for the input piston? Cold takeoff and once you drive a while and stop, then start it jerks taking off into 1st. I have a feeling this is the issue. How hard is this to do? I watched the video at the 6 minute mark but it doesn't explain how to replace it.
Justin Chambers th-cam.com/video/RqwwYQkOewQ/w-d-xo.html Is a partial video. How hard is it? Its basically a complete breakdown of the transmission, its a transmission rebuild.
m ph A faulty pressure solenoid wouldn't cause this correct? Does this indeed sound like a input piston seal? Can the rebuild be done while it's in the car or does it have to be removed? I have removed and installed transmissions before but never rebuilt one. I am pretty good at mechanical things. Would this be same steps ruffly you did in the rebuild in vehice video? Any input/suggestions appreciated.
Justin Chambers Just to clarify it's a 2006 Chevy Uplander with 102,000 miles. During a cold takeoff and once you drive a while and stop, then start it jerks taking off into 1st. Shifting is smooth after taking off.
The problem that I'm having with my 4065 e-is in a Buick LaCrosse 07 model and I put it in drive and there's nothing but drop it all the way down to first and take off but it slips and then I'll shift into 2nd and slip a little bit and then it'll grab and 2nd and shift on through but if I slow down to stop for a stoplight have to start all back over and 1st what would be my problem
ok hears my problem pleas help if u can ok i just got back from a long trip like 3 hr drive no problems ever with this car i got the 4t65e ok no problems at all i go to pull up into the driveway and bam slip now i got no dive on pulling out in it i scanned it got the p1811 and 03-07-30-22B code also 4th and 3rd have no clutch grab at all shown by the scanner and 2nd and 1st slip also i can manually got to first light gass and pull out but slip a little and then go to 2nd then drive and all is goo but then whenever it goes to downshift it wont at all and then i got to manually shift it its a 02 park ave please help
I have a problem with a 2000 buick century. The at fluid is coming out of the vent on top of the transmission. Do you have any solution to this problem? The car will barely move.
Its aerating the fluid for some reason. Check fluid level with it running to make sure its not to high or low. Filter could be cracked, so you could replace that AND the seal. If those are not the issue, it needs to come out for a rebuild.
Actually I just ran across TAP, Transmission adaptive pressure, where it is reset by a scan tool. Could I repair myself and then have dealer reset this??? Will the car learn regardless?
Hi again. Can you tell me the most likely cause of P0716 code with "service engine soon" light? I read this code (with SES light) after putting transmission back together. I installed new solenoids, gaskets, bearings, 4th gear etc). After re-assembly my Pontiac (2006 Grand Prix) won't shift out of first. I can shift (and move) using the lever, R, D, 3,2,1 but car won't automatically shift out of first. The ISS is new and so is the wiring harness, I was hoping it was a ground wire or something simple. Could it be the reluctor wheel isn't spinning? Not sure what I did wrong, but I am hoping you may have a suggestion about what is likely the main culprit. Thanks
Sorry to hear that. Its prob in default mode since the PCM is sensing an issue and defaulting to 2nd gear limp mode. Hard to say, connector not plugged in internally? You could check resistance of the input sensor on the bulk head connector of the trans to see if its open. The side cover will prob have to come off again.
Good video thank you my question iswhen I'm driving 10 to 15 mi an hour in 3rd gear and I dropped the shift from 3rd to 2nd, it bangs really hard into 2nd. I just had the transmission rebuilt for months ago and it does it ever since. It also shudders once in awhile from 40 miles an hour or. I have the 4t65e in my Buick Lucerne, Would appreciate any help thank you
Unfortunately once they come apart and get rebuilt, it can be just about anything causing an issue. If you have a warranty on the trans, bring it back and have them go through it again.
@@mph5896 wow thanks so much for that fast response you're fantastic I've been back there five times and they say there's nothing wrong with it. He said it was my engine mounts and I had them replaced but there was nothing wrong with them either. There are very reputable business, but they keep saying there's nothing wrong with it and it's not showing any codes. But all my family friends say they feel it when there in the car. It's just horrible that they can't see there's not anything wrong with the trans. I am OCD and I know everything about my car how it runs and acts and feels..... And it's been shifting incorrectly from day one since they did it and does not feel right at all. I was told by one person it's probably the torque converter. It is just very frustrating. Thank you so much
@@mph5896 and they only test drive it for about 10 minutes each time. I told them all the time they have to test driver for a good 20 minutes or half hour.
You could check it for a bad throttle position sensor, looking for a dead spot. I doubt it’s that since it would usually set a check engine light. Try adding a bottle of lube guard 63010 to it. It’s an additive I have had great success with. I would also reset the transmission adaptive shifts and drive it. See how it does. The transmission adaptive shift has the computer and transmission work together to learn shifts and adjust transmission pressure to soften shifts. It will require a higher end scan tool to reset. Good luck
@@mph5896 thank you very very much for that information I really appreciate it. Very nice for you to go out of your way to do that. I will give it a shot and I'll let you know how it goes. Either way anything will help. Thank you and have a great day
can you tell me where the 4th gear accumulator goes if its easy to get to where i have the side plate off where all the solenoids are located your videos are great also thanks for sharing them with us all cant thank you enough
I had a history p1811 in my 2004 chevy venture with 4t65e. Sometimes going down the highway, I could feel a delayed shift from 3rd to 4th. I installed all the parts from a transgo kit with a pan drop and fluid and filter change. This caused a new problem. On a long trip it seems that the shifts are good now at highway speeds but when I decelerate to almost a stop and then step on it to accelerate back up, it sometimes has a delayed shift maybe from 1st to 2nd and makes a bad noise. I have to accelerate really slowly if I don't want this to happen. Do you have any idea what might have caused this?
I have a 2008 Chevy Uplander that I replaced the 3 bands in it one year ago(forward band tang broke off), it had 100,000 miles then. Put back together and have put 25000 miles on it since then. have had no issues or problems until last week. Came to a stop and when I stepped on the gas i had nothing. Put it in park then drive again and it took off but started slipping and then no forward or reverse at all. Was a little over a quart low on fluid and it smelled burnt. If i let it cool down, I have all gears fine for about 30 seconds and then it starts to slip until i have no forward or reverse at all. Let it cool down for a few minutes and same issue again. Any ideas on what to start looking at? Thanks!
Great vid thank you ,,I have a 2003 impala ,Engine flares up between 1st and 2nd gear at half throttle ,Light throttle 1 & 2 shifts hard ? Can you point me to the right direction what would cause that ?
@@DELTRANIO99 I would examine the fluid closely. If its loaded with clutch material its going to need a rebuild. You could try the PCS solenoid, but no guarantee that would fix it.
@@mph5896 Yes when I changed the filter & fluid I expected to see that lots of shavings or metal but no looked normal just your typical fine dust like metal on the magnet
Got a question for you if u can respond asap would be awesome. To the point I have a 97 jeep grand cherokee v8 and when putting it into drive it takes abit to get speed but putting it into first she has the power but then trying to go into fourth it wouldn't. I tried putting overdrive on and still hasn't shifted. Vehicle was at operating temperature as well....what's wrong
auto zone codes c1298 and c1245,, when I go from drive rev or rev to drive I hear a clunk noise and a swooshing sound,, like fluid being pushed,,could this be pump and tcc and pcc and shift switches ,, thx
Excelent video. I have no drivability at all in my 06 chevy impala ss. no gears work and there's a grinding noise that is loud, comes and goes, and when car warms up wont drive, reverse, or anything. any suggestions on the cheapest route i should take? Chevy quoted me 3500 just to replace the trans with a remanned :(
Wont move at all under any condition? Check your drive axles first. I purchased cars in the past with "bad transmissions", come to find out the cv joint was stripped out on one, and the other the axle was not completely engauged with the splines. If thats not it its internal and will require a rebuild. Call around, should be able to get a trans rebuilt for around $2k.
it's interesting that you say that about the axle because that was my first thing I thought was the issue because it was making a clicking sound when turning left at first then about a week later nothing. Like today, nothing moves at all. No gears, even reverse. (gone)
I've had this trans rebuilt 2 years ago and now it appears to be the same thing happening all over again. But my first thought was the axle at first. On the left side drivers - axle has lots of play and I can move it forward and backwards..
My 01 Buick Park Avenue has an service engine soon light come on and was told its a small vacuum leak. When engine gets hot, it shifts hard. Doesnt slip but definitely noticed. Still a pcs issue? Thanks in advance
I got a 2008 3.5 Impala the shift from 1-2 and 2-3 is like 1sec. I feel my self leaning forward when it happens. Other then that it drives fine. Do you think those sensors will help this problem??? I don't have any codes.
There's a good chance it will shift faster if you install the spring kit in the accumulators. There's always a chance it's some other problem, but this is one of the most common problems and the kit isn't hard to install.
Hello, I have a 1999 buick regal gse with the 4t65e transmission also. I changed the fluid and filter and now it won't shift in any gear ;( Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If it worked before and now it does not work something you did is not right. I would assume fluid level is fine. Did you replace the seal where the filter goes into the trans? To put the seal back in I use a socket about the same size and tap it into place. Then the filter slides up into the seal. You could also have a defective filter, maybe a crack in the plastic riser sucking air.
How costly of a job u think it is or approx how many hours at a garage u think would it take to do the repair? I know it will vary but approx u think..
So I have a 2008 Chevy impala automatic and I have no codes popping up from my tranny and when I shift to drive or reverse it won’t move and engine revs fine but when I also put it in neutral and i push the car it also won’t move what can it be?
Jonathan Macaw check the fluid level first with the engine running. If it’s over full the trans oil pump may be stripped out. If it’s low top it off and check for leaks. Non rolling and won’t move, it’s prob a problem with the final drive part of the transaxle.
maybe you can help...? I bought a 2006 Buick lacrosse 3.8...65,000 miles.The trans fluid was really dark so I changed it..but now its shifting hard in first and second gear..do u think if I change that pressure control module it would fix it???..i dont understand why with these low miles it would do this😠
It sounds like a classic PCS issue. I would first reset the TAPS shift (requires a specialized scan tool) and I would add a 10oz of Lubeguard (red or grey universal bottle) thats available on Amazon or some Napa's).
I have an 01 Impala 3400 with the 4t65e and all of a sudden it is extremely hard to get in and out of gear. It will not come out of park now. I can manually put it in neutral and start it. But then from there it's very hard to switch gears. I'm assuming it's the gear shifter itself coming out of the top of trans. Is this a problem or an easy fix?
Eric Palacios Are you talking about delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shifts without an 1811 code? I have had this multiple times, the car has long-delayed feels like a double shift or pretty close to a slip shift feeling. I have replaced the PCS and it tightens it right up. In fact I can feel the shifting is off and dont even bother hooking up the scanner, just replace the PCS and it shifts like new again.
My 2002 trans shift hard. No codes. It blows fuse to my instrument cluster and signals. Do u think i have a bad computer or body module. I see these buick had a electrical problems. Which may cause trans problems. What u think.....MPH
I have a 2000 Buick LeSabre when it is first started it shifts hard into reverse and any other gear but once you take off it shifts fine until it warms up then it shifts hard manly into overdrive . Changed PCS seams to have helped the hard shift after warming up but shifting it into reverse and or drive when cold is still harsh any ideas.
Hello mph. Working with 2001 buick park avenue 4t65e . It started whining (same sound as if power steering fluid low) except it comes from transmission. Also when it whines it shifts hard. If I park it overnight it shifting fine in the morning. And sometimes few days in a row then it starts whining again with rough shifting and sometimes stumbling around 40-45 mph. Is it fixable by DIY or do I need a transmission overhaul?
In my experience when the trans whines it is directing MAX pressure to try and prevent damaging the trans. I would pull the codes and see what it shows. Prob a P1811 code which may be repairable with a PCS.
I have 2011 Chevy Impala now at 50,000 miles just had the Transmission oil and filter changed out. I want keep this car long time what can do make the Transmission last pass 100K
How to make your 4t65e last as long as possible: *Fix any fluid leaks ASAP, a transmission that runs low on fluid and starts to slip will burn it up in no time. *Use only the recommended fluid for topoffs and fluid exchanges, its currently Dexron VI *Change the fluid at certain intervals. I would perform a full fluid "exchange" every 50K, this would consist of using a fluid exchange machine with the correct fluid and getting out as much of the old fluid as possible. This could be as much as 12-14qts. *If you change out the filter make sure to only use a high quality filter, I have used cheap ones in the past and filter material from the crap filter plugged up a Pressure control Solenoid destroying a transmission.
@@mph5896 already got that one cool just got the speed sensor than thanks I know alot of people dont discount them before removal and damage the connectors 😅
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If your car has this transmission don’t overlook the mass air flow sensor for some reason the computer takes input from that sensor and it helps shift the transmission. If your having issue look at the mass air flow as well
Mine shifted like the trans was gonna drop until I changed the maf
@@jahagafut yes mine too my MAF died on me and the transmission slammed into gear scared the crap out of me. Good thing I have scan tool saw the MAF was completely dead
@@ryans413 no code for me, but same, it would SLAM, I unplugged maf while running and nothing happened so I figured
I do have a TCC Clutch circuit stored code though that might have been MAG related. Monday I put in shift kit, fluid and filter. I don't get the line pressure code just a bit of harder shift after a whole
Excellent videos and information. Been doing mechanic work for 34 years. Ive always shied away from automatic trans work, they intimidated me a bit, but you have great Info and videos I may take on the next one offered to me.
i recommend everyone stick a 1x1/2x1/4 neodmndym magnet onto the bottom of their pan. if you have the pan off, drop it into a corner. you will not believe all the grey metal clay that magnet collects. just the pressure of the fluid inside the trans will wear micro particles off the case and gears. it keeps the pillow switch, solenoids, and checkballs, valve body clean and free of junk.
...that's good to know, how do you secure them in the transmission pan? Where did you get your magnets from? do you have a link, thanks.
@@Texaca the pan is steel
Great video. The 4t65e is such a common GM transmission, but prone to failure with all the weak points. I have a 2006 3.9L Impala and sometimes I get the hard shift when cold, usually shifts smooth. I think I'll get new solenoids and the transgo shift kit next time I have the pan dropped and fluid changed.
How many miles do you have on it? I have an 07 3.9l with 100k that had long and clunky shifts, especially in the lower gears when it was hot. It greatly improved after I changed the fluid, but it still doesn't shift as well as i would like it to.
Thank you so much for making the video and taking your time to explain in such detail. Keep the vids coming sir your a true expert at your trade. Thanks again Wayne
I love when mechanics just dive in and automatically assume a p1811 code means theres trans problems...IT DOSNT!!! You can throw a p1811 code when there is a faulty throttle position sensor or paddle sensor...yes those can fail within range and not throw any codes...if you computor dosnt realize theres a problem with them its automatics going to default to p1811....for 75 bucks you can get both parts and replace them in 35 minutes...
If your tranny is clunking, shifting hard or slow as the topic of this video suggests then yes it's probably the transmission.
I lucked out. Had code P1811 with harsh shifts, got more and more frequent. The short story: Had a transmission specialist go through it.....still had the 1811/harsh shifts. Thought it might be the solenoid. Transmission specialist told me to try the shift kit springs in the 1-2, 2-3 accumulators before jumping to the PCS replacement. This fixed the problem! Didn't have to pull the side cover and replace the PCS solenoid, but I have a new one on hand if it ever comes to that.
Is it still good. I have a 08 Impala and I feel the 1-2 and 2-3 is slow because I catch my self leaning forward when it shifts.
@@gr8bart1 Yes, it hasn't acted up since.
@@scottst.vincent6964 has it lasted the 3 years since you posted here?
@@BigWheel. Yes! Never did it again since.
@@gr8bart1 Sorry for the late, late reply, but yes, it's still good to this day.
What transmission temp should a 2006 gxp 5.3 have max . I bought 2006 cheap but in decent shape with blown transmission . Had a local shop rebuild it the guy had a transmission shop for 40 years did a great job and added shift kit . I drove the car 500 miles in 85-92f day and trans temp got up to 217f And new fluid darkened so I changed all fluid with synthetic trans max and added big rv cooler in line with rad cooler also the rad was replaced with a new unit prior to replacing transmission and both fans work now temp is 180 f max . Would you be happy seeing 180 f or should I add a pusher fan to the car as well being an electronic tech I can easily add or make a temp sensor to activate the fan .
Search for a "transmission fluid life expectancy chart". It shows trans fluid life in mileage based on temp.
I would be happy with what you are running now. I would change it 50-60k interval running full synthetic if you aren't beating on it to hard.
@@mph5896 thanks for the info 👍
Thanks for all the info 👍👍👍👍👍
No prob. These videos are 8-9 years old now. I haven't touched a 4t65e in a few years. Just did a 6l80e the other day though.
I've watched all your vids on these trans...i have a 2000 grand prix and it hard shifts ONLY when completely warm. I drove it yesterday in cold Virginia weather and it shifted fine. However in the summer it shifts hard pretty quickly. 165k miles. I think I'll do the all the shift solenoids soon. unless you suggest something else? Your vid is EXCELLENT! I've been sharing...THANKS SO MUCH.
You can try a new pressure control solenoid. Might be a time for a rebuild or a new car
Really informative! I bought a 2008 Impala 3.5L 2 weeks ago with 122,000 miles. The fluid was changed at 56,000 miles, and I changed it again when I bought it with Castrol Dexron VI. It was well overdue. The fluid was a dark color, and smelt burnt. It had an average amount of metal and black stuff on the magnet and bottom of the pan. I read that it was recommended to put upgraded magnets in the pan and on the filter. Naturally, I read this after I finished my fluid change! I notice that only like once every 10 times I drive it, if I am easy on the gas, it will rev to about 2,000 rpm then bang hard and chirp a tire. Wide open it shifts great. Also, sometimes when Im pretty gentle on it, it feels like it pauses between the 1-2 shift for a second or two. I didn't notice this until after the fluid change. Is there anything you recommend to prolong the life of these things? Thanks a bunch!!
Nothing really to be done once they start slipping. If you havent already you can reset the pcm by disconnecting the battery. Ideally I like to reset the taps shifting if any trans work is done or a good amount of fluid is changed out. Taps is computer adaptive shifting, the computer sees how much psi of fluid pressure is required to let the trans work without shifting to hard or slip. When you replaced the old gritty fluid with new slippery stuff the pcm is used to the gritty fluid and you could have slippage. Resetting the taps requires a higher end scan tool with that capability. In your case your clutches are prob worn out along with the input piston inner seal being worn causing intermittant slipping. You can add some lube guard and reset the taps, but you should start saving for a trans.
AT 205 seems to help this issue...I suggest you try it.
@@Roudter ...is that a transmission additive or cleaner?
@@Texaca That's one of those additives that swell and soften the rubber...Seems to be difficult to find on the shelf lately...
how come you don't make videos anymore they were great
Good video
I have a 2007 Chevy Impala SS 5.3 Liter V8 Automatc with 145,000 miles and the car spuratically jerks slighty when going under 35mph. Defenitly feels like its coming from the transmission. T- fluid is dirty so im going to drain and fill a few times. Any idea if this jerking is related to the shift selonoids?
Thanks
My mom's Uplander with a 3.9L V6 Automatic does that as well. My car had a slight issue with it, but, it turned out to be a dirty air filter and grungy MAF sensor with the IAC valve issue and throttle plate was dirty. After replacing the air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor and IAC valve area before changing the IAC valve, the P1811 historical code went away and no jerks when accelerating, except for slight hiccups due to my exhaust leak issues (going to fix that), but no misfires.
Thank you for your reply. Not what I was hoping for so I guess I have to make a decision.
Nice video. These transmissions are good, but have so many potential failure points, like the pistons and solenoids.
(02 GP, 4t65e)I have installed a transgo shift kit, as well as added a trans cooler to try and bandaid the P1811 issue. I had the typical P1811 and hard shifts. This kept P1811 from ever coming back since the shift kit didn't let the accumulator absorb so much of the line pressure, but I can still feel the shifts slow down when fully warmed up. I went inside the side cover and replaced the pcs (and 4th clutch hub while I was there) to try and cure the problem(You have seen my video of the reassembly) Well that didn't really do it. The trans cooler keeps the transmission from ever reaching a high enough temp in the winter to get slow shifts, but warm weather is approaching and the shifts are slowing down again. Not longer than .6 though. I'm thinking there is something wrong with the boost valve/regulator valve in the valve body, although I noticed you did not mention that as a possible cause of P1811. I have heard of the valve wearing in the bore and causing pcs like issues. No other issues with the transmission, everything else checks out good. Minimal clutch material in the pan and no metal particles. Do you think the boost valve is the next most likely culprit?
Are you still getting the 1811? Are both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts slow? The PCS replacement fixes the 1811 most of the time (I would say as high as 90%) if you have slow 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.
If you just have a slow 1-2 OR 2-3 shift you may have a clutch pack issue, accumulator issue or sticking/worn shift valve in the valve body.
If you have 1-2 AND 2-3 slow shifts over 0.6 sec and setting the 1811 the PCS will more than likely fix it. BUT if you still have the 1811 and slow shifts after PCS replacement there are other causes:
Dirty MAF
Plugged trans filter or restricted flow.
Pump issues
AFL valve in channel plate leaking
Pressure regulator/boost valve issue.
Failure to reset tap shifts after repair.
m ph I'm no longer getting p1811. Every shift becomes slow as it gets warmer, including torque converter lockup and 3-4. Only when getting to normal factory operating temp. It never got to that temp all winter just about and never shifted slow. The new pcs made no difference to this issue. Unless I got a bad pcs. Or it was used but that wasn't mentioned in the amazon ad.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013FW5BI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It didn't come in the sealed GM bag, that's the only reason I'm questioning it.
Venturi2012
Whats your longest shift timing when it warms up? Anything under 0.60 sec I consider "normal". Ideally a 0.20-0.30 would be great though. You may either have to live with it or tear into it again. Check out the valve body, channel plate
m ph
AFL valve or possibly even further.
m ph
Unfortunately I haven't been able to check the times as the weather is just breaking and I have only driven it a long distance once in the warm weather. I would say even with the shift kit, they still get about .5 ish when hot. Now if I removed the shift kit this number would go to .8-1.0 I'm sure of it, and would be back to P1811. My shifts all winter long have been in the .2-.3 area, as I have monitored many times. This is such a temperature related issue. Before the shift kit, in the summer, if I turn on the A/C which keeps the fans on, I can feel the shifts get quicker.
I would like to check out the valve body myself, it would be my fist time ever separating the valve body from the channel plate, but I'm sure I can manage with help and information on the internet. And just by paying attention to what I'm doing. Worse case, I can order a reman valve body from Tripleedgeperformance.com and call it a day.
I have an 06 LTZ 3.9 and just rolled 61,000 miles. It started yesterday (March 7 2015) with the clunk from start thing. Not all the time but on occasion. Trans has not been serviced. Are you inclined to think the input housing worn or do you think perhaps the pressure solenoid ? Car gets driven every day just not very far. Fluid level is correct and clean and no other issues with shifting etc. At least at this point. Don't want to believe the input bore is worn in this time but I guess anything is possible with these guys.
Thanks for your thoughts.
The clunk from a start is almost always the worn input piston. Lots of stop and go driving causes more wear on it compared to a car that is driven on the freeway with minimal start/stops.
m ph Where can you buy replacement parts to rebuild an input piston problem? Great videos, by the way, I appreciate the effort.
Rockauto.com has an excellent online catalog, buy from them or get the part numbers and shop around on amazon, ebaymotors site
Great videos, they have been extremely helpful for me. I have a code for P0756 on my 4T65E and trans is in limp mode. I have replaced the shift solenoids, PCS, and valve body as well as clean the channel plate with brake cleaner. The trans seems to go from 1 - 3 just fine. In your experience will stripped splines on the 4th clutch shaft cause a P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance code? What is meant by the DTC when it flags after the PCM detects a "4-3-3-4 shift pattern"? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. It's a great running car but I'm about to get rid of it as I have done so much without any progress. Thanks again for your videos and help!
My trans move slow when I put it in drive I would have to apply gas to get it to coast normal, but in reverse it moves fine like it's not clogged.. I jus had my trans rebuilt new 4th clutch, new input piston. Basically all bad parts was replaced. The thing is b4 I had it rebuilt I really didn't have much pressure issues when it's in drive n off the gas. Weird
Great vid, Extremely helpful
Hello I have a 4t65e . No real issues but in your opinion, would installing a shift kit be advisable? Would it help prolong the life of it?
everthing is very expensive in canada.
I opened up mine and found piece of metal on the bottom the pan. I am assuming that came from forward band. I did find broken forward band along with worn 1-2 band and drum.
the forward band is 230 canadian dollars. crazy
I have 2004 montana and when i accelerate to 113km and keep pressing
down the gas it will not go higher and the speed will start the drop
down to 106km and it will starts to go back up to 113km and then the
same thing happens. there is no engine light and when i use an OBD2
scanner nothing shows up, but when i slowly press the gas it can
accelerate to speeds of 125km and not drop, but if i press gas harder
after that it drops again, and when i get it to 120km and go to cruise
control it is ok until i go uphill and then the same thing happens
again. i have already changed all of the engine sensors, fuel pressure
is ok, i have even changed things like the fuel pump and a lot of other
things, i have changed the transmission oil and added in Lucas oil
stabilizer. so what is the problem?
2006-2009 impala ss?
I got a 2004 Grand Prix gt2. I started acting up a year ago, driving 45mph and barely press gas to speed up the rpm gauage would fluctuate until I gave it more gas it would stop and shift normal. I bought new car and parked it and a year later I start it up, missfires when warm and would randomly die idling and when you drive it it will run up to 4000-4400 rpm and not shift and buck until you let off the gas and pressed it again gently. Pulled codes and replaced ICM, Crank sensor and coil packs. Drove car same problem, replaced a bad alternator that would charge at idle but cut out after 2500 rpm, problem still there and now I only get a pending crank sensor codeP0336. Is it possible trans problem ? Cats not clogged and car doesn't missfire at idle while revving it to the 4500rpm limiter which tells me fuel pump is probably fine too.
what about going from 1st to 2nd then quits puling turn off engine start back in low man shift then it change all gears till i cut it off again then restart
Great tips, thanks for sharin'.
My 1999 gtp slips in second. Gear only sometimes it whines and catches other than that plastic intake gaskets leak a little
question to video poster- what would cause the input stator splines to wear down on this transmission ? I found one with that issue when converter was pulled off. it was a salvage yard trans they said was low mileage.
I have the 2000 Pontiac bonnivile with a problem of no drive forward or reverse do you have any input advice for me
Thanks for making this video. I have 2008 ppv. When coming to stop it seems like it wants to lunge forward. Any ideas on that? Solenoid?
More often than not, when i need to accelerate quickly from a stop, i floor the pedal and the car acts as if im barely giving it gas. After about 4-5 seconds of this, the car begins to act normally and accelerates quickly. Does this sound like the pressure control solenoid?
I have a 1998 Buick Regal GS that has 125,000 miles I took of from a stop light and then it had enough power to make it it to a parking lot it turn on but won't catch any gear I already changed the fluid and filter and still nothing would there be a possibility that I could change the solenoids that it would work the fluid didn't smell burnt or wasn't that bad in color
Great job on the video. I have a question. I'm about to replace my solenoids in mine. Should I flush the fluid and change the filter as well? Seems risky to me. The car has 140000 miles on it. Fluid looks nice a pink and doesn't smell burnt or anything and is there anything else I should do why I'm in there replacing the solenoids.
If there is any hint of slipping of the trans, don't waste your time with solenoids. Just replace the trans or rebuild it. Drop the pan, put a filter in it along with a pcs. Reset the TAPS shift data and see how it does.
@@mph5896 it just shifts hard and eating it shifts hard and fast
I own a 97 Bonneville SSEi. I hardly drive out of our small town. I found 3rd gear missing one day. very occasionally it will get 3rd on a down shift but as soon as I let off the gas its gone. Any idea's on what might cause this would be great.
I've watched your videos, great stuff on the 4t65e, my issue is i get code p0741 only at highway speeds, plus sometimes the tranny shifts very hard (it goes away if i turn the car off then back on) plus sometimes at highway speeds the rpms jump up and down. You think a transgo shift kit (accumulator springs) will help with this issue?? It's a malibu 07 72k miles. Thanks
I need this done on 03 venture badly 238.250 trans guy want 1200+ to do this
Your videos have been very informative. I was installing this kit and I also have the ATSM manual. After removing the spacer plate (1 piece as you show in the video), I removed the black plastic pins and conical screens, and I don't know where to put them back on the new plate (the conical screens I found in the manual...I think) but the black retainer pins aren't covered. Could you tell me where they are supposed to go? Thanks
I really dont have a diagram in front of me. The black plastic push pin on the valve body/spacer just holds the spacer plate onto the valve body. It is along one of the edges, look for the small hole that does not go all the way through on one of the edges.
Does the Transgo Shift Kit also include a new TCC valve? I am have torque converter lockup errors where my 2005 Volvo XC90 with the T6 engine Will not stay locked up if I gently press the gas. I bought the shift kit and put the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs in as well as the Sonnax lube tube clamp. But I see in the paperwork in your video all kinds of other valves that I guess I never noticed. I did buy a Sonnax upgraded TCC valve and all new solenoids. But was wondering which TCC valve is best. Thanks.
i have a 97 buick ultra , my trans wont move it trys but just wont popped off the trans filter snd found a broke acumulator pistion pin broke can that cause the trans to quit ??
I have this trans with a shift problem, will not shift at all. At 55 mph it hits 3500 rpm to 4000 rpm no noise that I can here. Would a new shift kit with the solenoids fix this? Also when it get hot it will stall at a stop sign. Great videos you put up and thanks for any advice.
Hello, I would start by pulling codes. More than likely your trans is in "safe mode", in safe mode your trans will default to both shift solenoids off and full line pressure in an attempt to prevent or contain transmission damage. It keeps the car "stuck" in 3rd gear.
If your trans is in safe mode Check the "trans fuse" in the under hood junction block. If its blown you will get no power to the transmission components. A sensor may have shorted or the harness may have chafed internally or externally if blown.
As far as stalling when coming to a stop, your torque converter may be staying locked up. If this is the case the engine/transmission is coupled together and the transmission is stalling out the engine. Staying locked up could be caused by a bad torque converter solenoid, shorted wire, sticking valve in valve body, or bad torque converter.
Hope this gives you a starting point. Is the car worth putting money into or are you looking for a band aid fix?
m ph, this is my sons car to get back and forth to school so its a keeper. We had the scan done at auto zone and the codes were P0742 and P0756. Not the 1811 code that I was expecting. Thanks for the advice you have some excellent videos.
2003 Chevrolet Impala LS 3.8l...Have not pulled codes, but had the filter and fluid changed recently. Shifted fine (better than before the change) for the last couple of weeks or so. Now it has started doing this weird clunk into gear from complete stops...intermittent. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't. Shifts good otherwise. Would just putting the TransGo kit into the 4t65e help that?
the input piston is prob bad. that is addressed in this vid, trans will need a rebuild
I've never put in a shift improver kit. I'm having the long, delayed shift from a stop, then it drops hard into gear. It improves when warmed up but doesn't totally go away. It has also gone into full line pressure on one occasion. I know this is the piston but I cannot afford a full rebuild this year. I'd like to bandaid it by installing this kit to improve the shift time. Hopefully relieving the problem for a little while. The instructions assume a total rebuild, but I'm just dropping the pan and replacing the filter. What parts of the kit are installed in the pan, just the parts around 4:00? And are all of the springs installed together as shown or are they shown as varying spring weights top choose from? Thanks for the video and the help.
Did you doing this help my car has been doing this on and off for 3 years now was considering the same just wanting to get a little more time out of it
Would the pressure cell annoyed’s keep a car from Goin Forwards because 07 impala it will go in reverse but it will not go in drive? is the valve body on the side of the transmission and can I get to the pressure Silla Noyd without taking a Val body off of there because I do not want to lose the check balls
Great Video very Informative on these common 4t65e problems,My problem is a little different with this same trans.First I have a 1998 GP GTP just replaced all 5 senors or solenoids and the car goes into gears and shifts fine ,but the problem I'm having is the Overdrive coming way to soon, when in Drive it want to lock in as low as 40 mph & lower with little acceleration. With heavier Acceleration a little long before it locks in around 55 or so,also when I step on it the downshift works fine unlocking & go but at lower speeds it will lock right back in.Anyone have any info on this or has had this problem before and corrected and could point me where to start would be a GREAT help.Thanks
Is there an issue with that? What do you think OD with lockup be at for speed? No vacuum modulator on that year, Correct? Shift timing uses many factors, VSS, TPS, Coolant Temp, Input speed sensor, MAF readings. Anything off can cause shift timing changes.
Thank you for the response, will check into the mentioned items.
I have a 2007 Chevy impala 3.5 liter with 210000 miles, sometimes when its cold and I stop at a red light it sort of jumps or slips before it grabs 1 st gear . . I have changed the fluid at 75000 and at 150000. Should I change it again at 210000 or is something else wrong ? Thanks
I got a 2007 Grand Prix 3.8 supercharged it was fine now won’t go in drive unless connector unplugged? Any advice?
Perhaps you can help me with my impala trans problem. I have a 2010 impala and the other day I was pulling into the day care to pick up my child and it made a clunk noise and then a noise similar to what older transmissions used to make when you put them in park before the car came to a complete stop. After that the front wheels were completely locked up. The car goes into gear because you can see the motor twist in the right direction of the gear its in but the wheels wont turn. Seems like there is something keeping the trans from releasing the wheels. Even in neutral i cannot get the car to roll. The tow truck driver had to drag the car on the flatbed. Is the tranny shot or would replacing those solenoids fix the issues. i also looked at the cv joints and they look good. I jacked up the car and turned one wheel and the other spun the opposite way like its supposed to. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Without looking at it and going off info given I would say the park rod is damaged. You may want to see if there is still a powertrain warranty on your car since its a 2010. The side cover of the trans would have to come off for a repair.
I have a 1996 Buick Riviera and when I put it in drive it goes into gear hard and shfts hard in all gears sometimes it jumps rps like it's slipping going down the hwy I changed the fluid and it fixed it for a while but after I changed the battery its doing it again what could be the problem dose it need to be rebuild?
I have a ,2005 Chevy impala, 3.4 , 4t65e, it very slow to shift from 1 too 2 , or sometimes act like it goes in neutral, but can stop an pull out again an it will finally shift if I go slow with it till that first shift too 2 then 3 ,4 , overdrive it does fine, what. Solenoids should I change.
I got a 2000olds intrigue w the4t65e no real issues except in summer months maybe once a week id get these hard one, two shifts. Shut off engine, wait a min start it back up and its fine . I got the shift kit abd ive been putting off installing it . Should i just do it ?
Today I was driving my gtp and out of nowhere my trans started shifting hard in every gear , so i parked it for ten Minutes and drove it again and it shifted fine ! What could be the issue ?
jmnic63 More than likely the PCS
mine was doing this now D doesn't work and have to use 1st to move it around. forced me into my mustang 😐
jmnic63 I had this issue after racing my car. if it does it again check the trans dipstick and if there's bubbles it just hit a gear too hard and out air in the fluid and it will take a minute to remove them.
Your tranny is on the way out!! when it cools you are able to get the tranny moving but when it heats up again your only doing more damage
If you shut the car off and the problem went away it's a solenoid problem. A mechanical transmission failure would not correct itself when the car shuts off. Online u can buy all for ur car under 100$ trans will not have to come out
I have no codes. 02 lesabre. Was shifting hard. now no go at all. Any answer
Excellent. Thanks.
2009 chevy impala ss no check engine light no codes goes inreverse dont go forward. any thoughts thank you!!!
Chad Mack some problem
Where are you located
i got a 2007 impala the car shifts fine but if you stop and put in reverse it wont move shut off and start back up put in reverse does fine then put in drive wont move shut off start back up put in drive does fine !!! help
2001 grand prix occasionally will hard shift between every gear possible issue? most days drives good but occasionally has days it shifts hard
thanks bro. last question; would a bad solenoid show itself by checking trans fluid pressures in each gear?
A bad "solenoid" will show an error code with a Check Engine Light. If there were a default with the PCS Pressure control solenoid the PCM will default to full line pressure to try to prevent transmission damage. That would result in extremely hard shifts but you would not loose gears unless it was in "safe mode" in whick it would be stuck in 3rd gear.
IF a Shift solenoid went bad it could default to starting out in a different gear such as 2nd OR 1st then would not upshift.
One more thing, check your fluid level for being low before condeming the trans.
Your vids are great. I've had an occasional take off slip before I changed the filter and fluid on my 03 GP GT.
No ODB codes are present.
It still does the occasional take off slip, what would you recommend doing to remedy this problem?
Make sure the fluid level is full. Other than that a slip from stop will prob be a rebuild.
You think that a shift kit would help prolong the life until a rebuild could be done?
Take off slip= From a stop the car occasinally slips then bangs into gear, then shifts into second gear.
If thats the case the input piston or seal is going. Not really anything you can do about that. A Shift kit only effects 1-2 and 2-3 shift timing.
That is the symptom.....guess I'm looking at a rebuild soon enough..
I have a 99 buick leasabre with no codes it shifts fine but if you take off from a start hard the front of the car shakes violently like the tires are hopping from lose of traction but they are not. If you put it in first manually it takes of just fine. Do you think changing the solenoids would fix this issue?
What if you have the same symptom, late shifting in 1-2 or 2-3 no code and dont replace the pcs
Really hope you still use this and can reply... i have an 06 impala that recently had the tranny replaced but now only reverse works, there’s no metal in the oil and i heard just replacing the valve body would work. Please help
Broken forward band
No codes but my 97 Ultra has a hesitation during a quick takeoff from a stop in 1st. Almost like the chain jumps a tooth.
John Farr Check fluid level first. It could be an issue with the input piston or input piston lip seals. Watch that video around the 6minute mark, that explains the issue
m ph Do you have a video on how to replace the seal for the input piston? Cold takeoff and once you drive a while and stop, then start it jerks taking off into 1st. I have a feeling this is the issue. How hard is this to do? I watched the video at the 6 minute mark but it doesn't explain how to replace it.
Justin Chambers th-cam.com/video/RqwwYQkOewQ/w-d-xo.html Is a partial video. How hard is it? Its basically a complete breakdown of the transmission, its a transmission rebuild.
m ph A faulty pressure solenoid wouldn't cause this correct? Does this indeed sound like a input piston seal? Can the rebuild be done while it's in the car or does it have to be removed? I have removed and installed transmissions before but never rebuilt one. I am pretty good at mechanical things. Would this be same steps ruffly you did in the rebuild in vehice video? Any input/suggestions appreciated.
Justin Chambers Just to clarify it's a 2006 Chevy Uplander with 102,000 miles. During a cold takeoff and once you drive a while and stop, then start it jerks taking off into 1st. Shifting is smooth after taking off.
The problem that I'm having with my 4065 e-is in a Buick LaCrosse 07 model and I put it in drive and there's nothing but drop it all the way down to first and take off but it slips and then I'll shift into 2nd and slip a little bit and then it'll grab and 2nd and shift on through but if I slow down to stop for a stoplight have to start all back over and 1st what would be my problem
Overdrive band end broke off is the most common issue to cause that. Trans needs to be pulled out and rebuilt
ok hears my problem pleas help if u can ok i just got back from a long trip like 3 hr drive no problems ever with this car i got the 4t65e ok no problems at all i go to pull up into the driveway and bam slip now i got no dive on pulling out in it i scanned it got the p1811 and 03-07-30-22B code also 4th and 3rd have no clutch grab at all shown by the scanner and 2nd and 1st slip also i can manually got to first light gass and pull out but slip a little and then go to 2nd then drive and all is goo but then whenever it goes to downshift it wont at all and then i got to manually shift it its a 02 park ave please help
I have a problem with a 2000 buick century. The at fluid is coming out of the vent on top of the transmission. Do you have any solution to this problem? The car will barely move.
Its aerating the fluid for some reason.
Check fluid level with it running to make sure its not to high or low.
Filter could be cracked, so you could replace that AND the seal.
If those are not the issue, it needs to come out for a rebuild.
Actually I just ran across TAP, Transmission adaptive pressure, where it is reset by a scan tool. Could I repair myself and then have dealer reset this??? Will the car learn regardless?
Try disconnecting the battery for a long period. The car should relearn on its own.
Thank you :) I was hoping that would work
4T65-E trans and i dont have 3rd gear anymore. some times it works almoust normal in D position put never "manual shift" position. what is broken?
Hi again. Can you tell me the most likely cause of P0716 code with "service engine soon" light? I read this code (with SES light) after putting transmission back together. I installed new solenoids, gaskets, bearings, 4th gear etc). After re-assembly my Pontiac (2006 Grand Prix) won't shift out of first. I can shift (and move) using the lever, R, D, 3,2,1 but car won't automatically shift out of first. The ISS is new and so is the wiring harness, I was hoping it was a ground wire or something simple. Could it be the reluctor wheel isn't spinning? Not sure what I did wrong, but I am hoping you may have a suggestion about what is likely the main culprit.
Thanks
Sorry to hear that. Its prob in default mode since the PCM is sensing an issue and defaulting to 2nd gear limp mode. Hard to say, connector not plugged in internally? You could check resistance of the input sensor on the bulk head connector of the trans to see if its open. The side cover will prob have to come off again.
Good video thank you my question iswhen I'm driving 10 to 15 mi an hour in 3rd gear and I dropped the shift from 3rd to 2nd, it bangs really hard into 2nd. I just had the transmission rebuilt for months ago and it does it ever since. It also shudders once in awhile from 40 miles an hour or. I have the 4t65e in my Buick Lucerne, Would appreciate any help thank you
Unfortunately once they come apart and get rebuilt, it can be just about anything causing an issue. If you have a warranty on the trans, bring it back and have them go through it again.
@@mph5896 wow thanks so much for that fast response you're fantastic I've been back there five times and they say there's nothing wrong with it. He said it was my engine mounts and I had them replaced but there was nothing wrong with them either. There are very reputable business, but they keep saying there's nothing wrong with it and it's not showing any codes. But all my family friends say they feel it when there in the car. It's just horrible that they can't see there's not anything wrong with the trans. I am OCD and I know everything about my car how it runs and acts and feels..... And it's been shifting incorrectly from day one since they did it and does not feel right at all. I was told by one person it's probably the torque converter. It is just very frustrating. Thank you so much
@@mph5896 and they only test drive it for about 10 minutes each time. I told them all the time they have to test driver for a good 20 minutes or half hour.
You could check it for a bad throttle position sensor, looking for a dead spot. I doubt it’s that since it would usually set a check engine light.
Try adding a bottle of lube guard 63010 to it. It’s an additive I have had great success with. I would also reset the transmission adaptive shifts and drive it. See how it does. The transmission adaptive shift has the computer and transmission work together to learn shifts and adjust transmission pressure to soften shifts. It will require a higher end scan tool to reset. Good luck
@@mph5896 thank you very very much for that information I really appreciate it. Very nice for you to go out of your way to do that. I will give it a shot and I'll let you know how it goes. Either way anything will help. Thank you and have a great day
can you tell me where the 4th gear accumulator goes if its easy to get to where i have the side plate off where all the solenoids are located your videos are great also thanks for sharing them with us all cant thank you enough
Think its built into the channel plate under the valve body
Are u in Atlanta?
I had a history p1811 in my 2004 chevy venture with 4t65e. Sometimes going down the highway, I could feel a delayed shift from 3rd to 4th. I installed all the parts from a transgo kit with a pan drop and fluid and filter change. This caused a new problem. On a long trip it seems that the shifts are good now at highway speeds but when I decelerate to almost a stop and then step on it to accelerate back up, it sometimes has a delayed shift maybe from 1st to 2nd and makes a bad noise. I have to accelerate really slowly if I don't want this to happen. Do you have any idea what might have caused this?
Your work more than likely caused the new issue since it was not there before. Go back and check everything, or have it jerked out and rebuilt.
Where are u located at? I wouldn't mind paying you to fix this exact same issue
Are leaks costly to fix ?
I have a 2008 Chevy Uplander that I replaced the 3 bands in it one year ago(forward band tang broke off), it had 100,000 miles then. Put back together and have put 25000 miles on it since then. have had no issues or problems until last week. Came to a stop and when I stepped on the gas i had nothing. Put it in park then drive again and it took off but started slipping and then no forward or reverse at all. Was a little over a quart low on fluid and it smelled burnt. If i let it cool down, I have all gears fine for about 30 seconds and then it starts to slip until i have no forward or reverse at all. Let it cool down for a few minutes and same issue again. Any ideas on what to start looking at? Thanks!
pull it and rebuild it
I pulled the pan and filter tonight, full of aluminum - small chips and dust. Fluid very watery like and black. Ugghhh.
Great vid thank you ,,I have a 2003 impala ,Engine flares up between 1st and 2nd gear at half throttle ,Light throttle 1 & 2 shifts hard ? Can you point me to the right direction what would cause that ?
Prob needs a rebuild, 2nd clutches?
@@mph5896 You dont think it could be the Pressure solenoid ?
@@DELTRANIO99 I would examine the fluid closely. If its loaded with clutch material its going to need a rebuild. You could try the PCS solenoid, but no guarantee that would fix it.
@@mph5896 Yes when I changed the filter & fluid I expected to see that lots of shavings or metal but no looked normal just your typical fine dust like metal on the magnet
Good stuff
Got a question for you if u can respond asap would be awesome. To the point I have a 97 jeep grand cherokee v8 and when putting it into drive it takes abit to get speed but putting it into first she has the power but then trying to go into fourth it wouldn't. I tried putting overdrive on and still hasn't shifted. Vehicle was at operating temperature as well....what's wrong
Sorry, never worked on one of these transmissions.
auto zone codes c1298 and c1245,, when I go from drive rev or rev to drive I hear a clunk noise and a swooshing sound,, like fluid being pushed,,could this be pump and tcc and pcc and shift switches ,, thx
Excelent video. I have no drivability at all in my 06 chevy impala ss. no gears work and there's a grinding noise that is loud, comes and goes, and when car warms up wont drive, reverse, or anything. any suggestions on the cheapest route i should take? Chevy quoted me 3500 just to replace the trans with a remanned :(
Wont move at all under any condition? Check your drive axles first. I purchased cars in the past with "bad transmissions", come to find out the cv joint was stripped out on one, and the other the axle was not completely engauged with the splines.
If thats not it its internal and will require a rebuild. Call around, should be able to get a trans rebuilt for around $2k.
it's interesting that you say that about the axle because that was my first thing I thought was the issue because it was making a clicking sound when turning left at first then about a week later nothing. Like today, nothing moves at all. No gears, even reverse. (gone)
I've had this trans rebuilt 2 years ago and now it appears to be the same thing happening all over again. But my first thought was the axle at first. On the left side drivers - axle has lots of play and I can move it forward and backwards..
Put the car in gear and see if the cv axle spins. It should not.
+m ph Ok, I'll check that out in the morning and get back to you.
My 01 Buick Park Avenue has an service engine soon light come on and was told its a small vacuum leak. When engine gets hot, it shifts hard. Doesnt slip but definitely noticed. Still a pcs issue? Thanks in advance
did u find out what was wrong with your buick? Our Bonneville is doing the same.
I got a 2008 3.5 Impala the shift from 1-2 and 2-3 is like 1sec. I feel my self leaning forward when it happens. Other then that it drives fine. Do you think those sensors will help this problem???
I don't have any codes.
There's a good chance it will shift faster if you install the spring kit in the accumulators. There's always a chance it's some other problem, but this is one of the most common problems and the kit isn't hard to install.
Hello, I have a 1999 buick regal gse with the 4t65e transmission also. I changed the fluid and filter and now it won't shift in any gear ;( Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If it worked before and now it does not work something you did is not right. I would assume fluid level is fine. Did you replace the seal where the filter goes into the trans? To put the seal back in I use a socket about the same size and tap it into place. Then the filter slides up into the seal. You could also have a defective filter, maybe a crack in the plastic riser sucking air.
hey good job!!
Is replacing torque converter fluid seal a big costly job?? Does transmission have to come out to fix it..my car is a 2009 Impala LS..3.5 litre...
Email me if u can..rob29freake@ hotmail.com..you know your tranys and I appreciate any advice...thks budy!!!!
Trans needs to come out to do the job. You can pull the engine/trans together out the top and split them if you don't have a lift.
How costly of a job u think it is or approx how many hours at a garage u think would it take to do the repair? I know it will vary but approx u think..
So I have a 2008 Chevy impala automatic and I have no codes popping up from my tranny and when I shift to drive or reverse it won’t move and engine revs fine but when I also put it in neutral and i push the car it also won’t move what can it be?
Jonathan Macaw check the fluid level first with the engine running. If it’s over full the trans oil pump may be stripped out. If it’s low top it off and check for leaks. Non rolling and won’t move, it’s prob a problem with the final drive part of the transaxle.
maybe you can help...? I bought a 2006 Buick lacrosse 3.8...65,000 miles.The trans fluid was really dark so I changed it..but now its shifting hard in first and second gear..do u think if I change that pressure control module it would fix it???..i dont understand why with these low miles it would do this😠
It sounds like a classic PCS issue. I would first reset the TAPS shift (requires a specialized scan tool) and I would add a 10oz of Lubeguard (red or grey universal bottle) thats available on Amazon or some Napa's).
hi...thanks for the info...can I rent that scan tool from autozone???
unknown
I have an 01 Impala 3400 with the 4t65e and all of a sudden it is extremely hard to get in and out of gear. It will not come out of park now. I can manually put it in neutral and start it. But then from there it's very hard to switch gears. I'm assuming it's the gear shifter itself coming out of the top of trans. Is this a problem or an easy fix?
You will have to isolate either the trans or shift assembly as the issue. D/c cable from top of trans to do this.
What if no codes are set & the vehicle is doing the same thing as described in the video?
Eric Palacios Are you talking about delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shifts without an 1811 code? I have had this multiple times, the car has long-delayed feels like a double shift or pretty close to a slip shift feeling. I have replaced the PCS and it tightens it right up. In fact I can feel the shifting is off and dont even bother hooking up the scanner, just replace the PCS and it shifts like new again.
Ok thank you, will give it a shot at it. I know the whole left drive axle must come out, but does the suspension x- member have to be lowered as well?
Check out my other video's. I have a step by step (bolt by bolt) on replacing the PCS.
So I'm assuming a filter& fluid change isn't going to fix anything
Eric Palacios Prob not, you can inspect for material in the pan when you do a filter job though
What about P0751 shift solenoid
My 2002 trans shift hard. No codes. It blows fuse to my instrument cluster and signals. Do u think i have a bad computer or body module. I see these buick had a electrical problems. Which may cause trans problems. What u think.....MPH
Blowing fuses is often caused by a short from power to ground. I would fix that first then look at the trans
Thanks again
Sounds like something that the manufacturer should have been responsible for?
Trans is 20-25 years old now. Its an antique.
I have a 2000 Buick LeSabre when it is first started it shifts hard into reverse and any other gear but once you take off it shifts fine until it warms up then it shifts hard manly into overdrive . Changed PCS seams to have helped the hard shift after warming up but shifting it into reverse and or drive when cold is still harsh any ideas.
Check and see if your fluid level is good. No real other suggestions, Its prob time for a rebuild.
Hello mph. Working with 2001 buick park avenue 4t65e . It started whining (same sound as if power steering fluid low) except it comes from transmission. Also when it whines it shifts hard. If I park it overnight it shifting fine in the morning. And sometimes few days in a row then it starts whining again with rough shifting and sometimes stumbling around 40-45 mph.
Is it fixable by DIY or do I need a transmission overhaul?
In my experience when the trans whines it is directing MAX pressure to try and prevent damaging the trans. I would pull the codes and see what it shows. Prob a P1811 code which may be repairable with a PCS.
i have a 1999 grandprix the trans has a delayed shif from 1 to 2 no codes the trans works fine 3/4 of the time like to have your thought on this thx
tim bryant If its just the 1-2 shift thats delayed it will prob need a rebuild. Usually with a bad PCS you will get 1-2 and 2-3 delayed shifts.
Just what I needed
Please turn on your auto focus. So many shots are blurry, like the scan tool one.
The 4t65E is it bad Transmission, How many miles should, I expected to get before it will need repair.
Bad, not really. Great, not really. Mileage, its hard to say.
I have 2011 Chevy Impala now at 50,000 miles just had the Transmission oil and filter changed out. I want keep this car long time what can do make the Transmission last pass 100K
How to make your 4t65e last as long as possible:
*Fix any fluid leaks ASAP, a transmission that runs low on fluid and starts to slip will burn it up in no time.
*Use only the recommended fluid for topoffs and fluid exchanges, its currently Dexron VI
*Change the fluid at certain intervals. I would perform a full fluid "exchange" every 50K, this would consist of using a fluid exchange machine with the correct fluid and getting out as much of the old fluid as possible. This could be as much as 12-14qts.
*If you change out the filter make sure to only use a high quality filter, I have used cheap ones in the past and filter material from the crap filter plugged up a Pressure control Solenoid destroying a transmission.
How many external connectors are on the 4t65e I see one by the pump but where are the other connections? Dont wont to break one while pulling it
Dayton Yarnell 2, main and output speed sensor
@@mph5896 I'm guessing it's on the passinger side and wont be able to gain access until you start lowering the transmission?
Dayton Yarnell main connector is on the drivers side, under the air tube. You have access once the air tube is out of the way
@@mph5896 already got that one cool just got the speed sensor than thanks I know alot of people dont discount them before removal and damage the connectors 😅