I was a welder for 45 yesrs and i can tell you this, you never stop learning! When I was a 15 I started working at a welding repair shop and we did a ton cast repairs. We would always pre heat too 400 deg, checked with a tempel stick. We used a old gas oven. Once you started the brazing repair you didn't stop until you were done to maintain the temp. Then the peice was put into a lime box for a SLOW cool down. It would take 24 hours, sometimes longer before it was cool enough to touch. The same process for nickel rod. Most of the repairs were successful. Sometimes we would get a old burned up manifold or a poor quality casting that you couldn't do anything with. The owner of the shop told me a few thing that I will always remember. You can"t screw something up so bad that it can"t be fixed! And no matter how dumb you think somone is you can still learn something from them.
Yes, I'm also old enough to remember lowering welded castings to slow cool in the Lime Box. I can also remember my old boss telling me that every single person in this world knows something that I don't, therefore the best coarse of action is to shut up and learn.
That is exactly how a shop repaired my 1948 Marmon Herrigton 2-1/2 ton truck brake drum for me that was cracked. Never had an issue, but sold the truck several years ago.
Yep, No where near enough preheat, no interpass heat, and no controlled cooling. (Best way , though is gas weld with REAL cast iron (not nirod) and burry it in a charcoal fire if you do not have a programmable oven. - Totally undetectable repair. ----We used to do 40 or 50 of those ice damaged boat manifolds every spring.
Super Trooper. When I first started working in an HVAC fabrication shop I was amazed at the work we did. I told my boss I really wanted to learn how to weld. He told me to grab a spare hood and watch our lead man. By the time he got through with hands on teaching I was in heaven. Mig and Tig, loved it. Hardest thing to learn was aluminum and the easiest was stainless. I suck at stick welding though.
@@donniebrown2896 thanks for the info Donnie. I am terrible at all of it haha but I’m learning. I might have to sign up at the local community college because I don’t know anyone that can teach me.
@@supertrooper7403 classes would definitely be a good way to go but you can learn a lot from youtube and just practice as well. Depends on your situation and goals i guess.
"No matter how much you think you know, there's somebody that knows something that you don't." 💯 great video as usual mate. I call these ones character building exercises or swear jar funding 😂 Cheers, Kurtis 😎👍
Spot on Kurtis you never know everything those who claim to usually don’t know anything about the trade or project that’s being done I’ve been a mechanical engineers for 25 yrs and I’m proud to admit i am still learning everyday always a new technique or challenge stay safe everyone god bless
As long as it doesn't leak and you can grind it down past the bubbles and flux inclusions it was a successful repair. Thanks for sharing. The most important thing is to get the cast hot enough so the bronze sizzles and flows across the surface. It's the same idea as tinning a solder joint but hotter. A carbon rich flame will reduce creating oxidation. Prefluxed rod is always handy; saves dipping in the can as much. Flux is your friend. Brazing in position helps keep the puddle where you want it. Your emphasis on the correct glasses is something I wish someone had told me 50 years ago. I can't see deep blue or violent any more from gas welding and brazing with no shielding. As always your quiet humility and honesty along with the deep understanding of your craft is what makes your videos so incredibly educational. Kudos
I don't weld with a torch a tremendous amount and brazing isn't that bad but when I weld steel I have to get out the serious shades. I like to learn how to weld aluminum with a torch and I know with the Flux you use it lights up real bright. You need the blue lenses. I think it was TH-cam welder " tin man " that sells his own design aluminum welding glasses that supposed to really match up to the bright flame produced. Glass too, I want to play with some glass and that can get pretty blinding bright.
You can always tell when you are dealing with a fool. They know everything and never admit to needing to learn something new. Beautiful results and great learning experience!!!!!
My uncle in the 50’s had a small welding, repair, and fabrication shop. He had a oven from a kitchen that he would put cast parts in and slowly heat them up, weld them and then over a period of hours slowly turn the temperature down to let them cool properly. Worked for him and the oven cost him very little.
That's genius , I used a 5 gallon bucket , filled with quick lime , to let chrome moly suspension arms cool slowly worked great stayed warm for 24 hrs. ,to relieve stress build up from crack repair...
A couple of comments. Cast iron used in these types of applications is usually not the best quality. It's pretty much a lot of slag intermixed with some iron. Trying to adhere filler metal to slag just doesn't work. The higher iron content is necessary for cohesive strength. On another note, brazing loses its cohesive strength around 600 degrees. If the area around the crack is void of grease and paint, i can assure you that the operating temp is above 500 degrees. Grain growth occurs at these elevated temperatures as well and will be evident by a granular surface made up of little squares. These areas will have little to no iron for brazing. Surface prep may start with grinding, but will inevitably need more work. Grinding tends to smear graphite.(carbon) over the iron molecules essentially sealing them. It is better to use a sharp carbide burr that kinda chips the material away. I have used cove chisels as well. Welding with cast iron filler is possible too, but you have to deal with hotshortness, which basically means the bottom can fall out ot your puddle. Sounds like fun, i know.
@@dennisknackstedt18 I've used a cast iron brazing rod over the years on cast iron stoves, manifolds and such, never had a problem. Your comment gave me a real awakening into how far off I was in my prep work, thanks for the tips.
There's a place where I live where ppl drop off their old appliances for recycling. I just stopped by at 1:00 in the morning, loaded an oven up in my pickup, then left. When I was done cooking toxic stuff, I marked on the oven that it had had chemicals inside & was no longer food safe, then I took it back & dropped it off. Worked great! I even got a free oven cord & the burner coils for a heat treat oven I'm planning to build out of the deal.
It doesn't matter what it looks like before you return it to the customer, only what it looks like when you return it to the customer! And this repair looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing and thanks for keeping it real, not hiding anything! Stay safe.
Your work ethic is second to no one. I saw Finnegan on his channel close off all ports and back flow inert gas into the manifold. Seeing your work always gives me faith that work ethic and using one's natural talents still exists in this " just replace it" society. Thank you sir!!
I learned from my dad about 60 years ago. Been learning ever since. The braizing area, that is any are where you want the bronze to flow , must be ground clean. If the part is not hot enough, you will fight it until you are almost finished and then realize that you should have preheated it more. Braizing iron castings is one of my favorite things to do. And it is a very strong and durable repair.
Great attitude towards education. When I was in the fire service, the training officer used to say "It's what you learn, after you know it all, that's important." Really enjoying your videos. Thank you, sir.
It’s all about learning. And at my the learning comes easy but remembering the next what learned yesterday is the hard part. I enjoy learning from your work. Thank you for sharing
Good advise on protecting your eyes when welding, my grandpa worked as a welder's helper in West Texas, I think in the late 40s/50s and he didn't have any eye protection. He was pretty much blind by the time he was in his late 60s. I am an advocate for eye safety since I only have one! Weld came out dang good
I've been flashed so many times. Hated that sand in the eyes feeling. We always kept milk and potatoes in the fridge at work. Slice of potato for each eye and milk for fume poisoning from welding galvanized steel. They do help
@@chrishuber7704 the shop I worked in wasn't really big, the first "all nighter" I pulled there were three crews of fitters and welders . No one had breathing protection, no "curtains" to protect from another's tacking flashes.and of course no air circulating as we were all tig welding. Think I was the first to exit to the storage lot hollering for "hewey". Felt like I was expelling my kneecaps through my nose. One of our lead men told me about the milk trick. Really worked.
They always say that it has to look worse before it can look better. Also always love the common sense and down to earth advise and approach to doing the work.
Nice job. Looks like a good repair to me. We used to weld old manifolds on one-lung John Deeres just like that and they held (forever) well. I enjoy your approach and attitude towards a challenge. Will look for more videos. Kudos all around.
Nice work, the brazing I have done in my career I would just dip the hot rod in the flux and I trailed with the rod and the bronze would draw to the heat .The cast I have worked over the years we would heat in oven do repair usually nickel and put back in oven and step down on heat till ambient temp and turn off. You have a great channel keep up the great work!
one quote I've always gone by Failure is the first step to success none of us have learned anything without screwing up along the way turned out great 👍👍👍
Everything you did looked great, I would add: When I do these types of brazing cast iron jobs, just as important as pre-heating, is cooling down slow- I JUST brazed a cast iron crack in a grinder wheel cover this week, pre-heated, brazed, wrapped it up in a fire blanket and then on top a big old comforter folded and doubled/tripled up- When I was first done brazing, I checked it with the laser temp gun and it was around 730 degrees at the weld sight- wrapped it up good and let it sit almost 4 hours, un wrapped to check it and it was STILL 125 degrees- for me, I've had good luck brazing Vises, manifolds, Lathe and mill parts, all kinds of Cast iron and so far (knock wood) havent had anything re-break
Isaac I have been welding all my life I'm 77 and have found that every job is a learning experience! You and Kurtis at Cutting Edge and Dave at the Coach Shop and all the other Job shops in the World have the same thing in common you fix it your way and that is the write way for the job you are working on at the time. The guy with the big mouth is the one that can't fix it. Hay guys if you did the best you know how that is the best that can be done. After all what is welding, heat it up ad some filler let it cool how hard can it be. Sorry about the rant but I see you guys working so hard fixing someone's destroyed stuff and some jocker gives you a thumbs down or he could do better with a jar of peanut butter. My wife the book keeper said that it just amazed here that the Jobs that went out the door paid for worked so much better than the ones that were charge sales. ps you did a grate weld on that freeze crack fixed a lot of them here in Oregon.
Paul A, Amen sir! Every job is indeed a learning experience. I'm 20 years your junior and still learning, whenever you seem think you might have reached the pinnacle, someone will sure enough come by and show you there is still more to go, keep climbing! Jar of peanut butter butter eh? I am heading out to the shop... I gotta try that 🤣🤣
Paul A I'm a retired plumber/drainer/gas fitter in my 60's and when I was doing my apprenticeship one of the tradesman said to me...Those who can do, DO, Some of those who can do, also TEACH, some those who can do neither, CRITISE. I watch those you mentioned Kurtis, Dave and obviously Isaac among others and I learn something every single day. And you're right I can't see how anyone can give these master craftsmen a down thumb. Just Sayin
My father who was a tool and die maker and the smartest person I've ever known taught me you can learn something from the dumbest person you know never be too proud to listen.
Very good job. No undercut, no porosity that I could see. Your brazing blended beautifully with the parent material/metal. If I wasn't a welder for twenty two years I would actually pay a bonus on top of your price for this job done this good. You are alot more capable than you know and give yourself credit for. Keep up the great work.
There are some good sticks for welding cast iron. Muggy is a good one. Neighbor that used to weld up dies for a large drop hammer forge company gave me some old rods that you clamped on in the center. Welded on end then flipped over. No numbers left on it. Over 50 years old rod. But what he welded was heated to 800°f. Tough job. Really enjoy your videos. I'm a retired industrial mechanic. 44yrs of it.
It’s been a while, glad to see you’re too busy to make/edit a video. Was up late and you popped up, so- just clicked on your link to observe and learn something I didn’t know. Thanks, for all you do, it’s important to younger people.
Good repair, I also agree that you can always learn from others even it just an idea that you use and adapt to your own needs. The Flux I use here in Australia is called Castolin, that is for Cast Iron, it is pinkish in color, works well for me. Cheers from John.
I'm a new subscriber and enjoy talents and honesty. I was a welder for many years for a heavy lift crane manufacture. Thanks for taking the time video/edit and sharing. Boe
Fantastic video Issac , my dad worked as a machinist fro 40 yrs at Canadian National Railways and his best friend was a Blacksmith and he was one gifted man, so many years in his trade , as a kid i watched him weld, Braze, repair so many different kinds of material that i thought how do you fix or repair these and he'd explain how he would do it his way and I'd see the finished product and was always amazed at his work, and only shook my head, what did know I was only 11 yrs old then and sometimes were talking castings that stood as tall as him or my father, it was just crazy in such a good way, lots of this is in some countries becoming a lost art and it is an art, 20,30 ,40 or more years of skill that is an art these guys like my dads friend would be like 110 yrs old if they were still alive now, these are things that need to be taught , they will always be needed and this in simple terms means longevity to machines , products that we use in large and small industrial settings, this will always be part of our lives, so its a skill for future generations to learn and maintain, or as red green says if she doesn't find you handsome, she'll find you handy 👍
IC, good job for someone that is learning. Your advice for flux, tip size, eye glasses and heating mixed with your honesty makes this a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanx.
Always get excited when I see you post a video. My folks told me when I was young “if you’re not gonna learn anything then there’s no reason to get up in the morning”. I live my life by that
Well. I have not used a carburizing, cooler flame, ever, for brazing. Twisting the rod and all. So I tuned in to watch a pro. Huh. I would have done it much like you did. All these years, I always thought I was doing it wrong. You never really do stop learning, just like you pointed out. It was a privilege to peek over your shoulder and watch. I'm going to watch some more, you have a new subscriber. Thanks so much!
Hi Isaac, those glasses used by glass blowers are tad different, they are made of so called didymium glass (neodymium and praseodymium salts added to the mix), and they are meant to block SPECIFICALLY that sodium flare (which is a rather narrow spectrum of yellow-orange light). But that's a tad different kettle of fish than that orange "thermal" glow. Those didymium glasses are basically a narrow-band optical filters, and they block only that sodium flare (AFAIK) so they won't be useful (methinks) for any welding or welding-related work. Apparently they are also good at blocking IR light so they are also useful in blacksmithing, but not in welding. (However, they might be useful in brazing, as the flux contains lot of sodium and it gives off that sodium flare when heated - but then one would need those "regular #5" glasses to block that excessive visible light, so why bother...) Didymium glasses - see th-cam.com/video/3cxt8i0PYyY/w-d-xo.html - and th-cam.com/video/6Ul8CmUkO4E/w-d-xo.html for more in depth explanations. BTW, this guy is in that first video is tad wrong, there's no such thing as "neodydimium" - it's just that both neodymium and praseodymium have extremely similar chemical properties and separating them is real pain in the... glass, so that "didymium" ("Greek for "two twins", A) name might be one that people gave it erroneously before they realised it's not just a single element - but the name just stuck. In a similar fashion we still call hydrochloric acid a "muriatic acid", as at the beginning of modern chemistry chemists used to think that acids are created by combining certain oxides and water (hence the "oxygen" - Greek for "acid creator"), and they couldn't get what element might be behind that hydrochloric acid - and they thought its a combination of an oxygen and some yet undiscovered/ unseparated element, and they've called it "murium". Hence "muriatic acid" - even though it's been like two centuries since people realised that chlorine IS actually an element... But I digress here. Cheers!
Phillips safety makes lenses that they call borotruview 5.0. They are likely dark enough for welding torch work (nearly 0 uv and ir, 3-7% visible transmission). Colored boro glass glows very bright, you really need shade 5s to work big pieces. I'd love to try them but at like $200 a pair the green tint starts to sound not so bad. I agree the didymium ones aren't dark enough to really be useful.
@@donsmith9081 I've owned an oxy set for over 20 years. I still have a healthy respect for it. A wise teacher once told me, "Fire and electricity are magnificent slaves, but horrible masters". Words I never forgot.
IC, I get it, but I will say that it cleaned up beautifully! A little paint and you'd never know it was repaired. Great video as always, keep them coming! Rich
I've watched a few of your welding repairs jobs . You've got a very good hand and skills in welding heavy-duty jobs. I'm a retired aerospace welder/ sheet metal mechanic. I do side work out of my garage for extra income.
Too much heat is not a good thing with cast been doin this for 48 years i use super cast 90 low and slow small welds and cool off between passes dose a great job and looks good as well
Didymium glasses are what glassblowers use, and it will take away the flare from using a torch but bare didymium doesn't have any shade (the blue ones). You can also get didymium glasses that do have a shade. I have used a shade 5 for years and I also use them for the cutting torch. If you need a higher shade you can get glasses for working quartz that will go up to a shade 12
A lost art is brazing, I used to be able to do it but no longer can. I liked the video and watched intently as brazing still keeps a spot in my soul. Great finished joint, it cleaned up well by looking at it. Well done for what you were working with!
I love to watch a skilled person at work. I don't need to be an expert in the field, the haul marks of a skilled person are easy to see, planning, care in execution and an awareness that each job will provide knowledge for the next. My respect, unqualified as it is, is great, thank you for taking the time to share.
Good saying .... Yes there is always someone , somewhere , somehow , that knows something about something that we don't . I like it , Thanks again . I am a rookie , but have been a mechanic all my life from a farm to now a aviation , airframe and power plant mechanic . I have learned a lot from you . You do jobs that would scare the total S*** out of me . I appreciate and respect your Skill level . You are a master at your trade . Very few achieve that .
I don’t understand haha you tackle everything and it always comes out without a doubt outstanding I learn so much from your videos and your knowledge is worth more then gold great video as always
always be learning!!!!!! my grandfather was a gas welding master, he taught me a lot, and forgot more than a lot of folks knew......lol. he once told me how he worked in the ship yards during the war, he was a tank tester, but always wanted to see how them new fangled electric welders worked, "as he called them", he went topside and convinced a welder on lunch break to let him use his hood. well, he must have been a natural, gang boss caught him, inspected his welds, said" you aint one of my welders, but I want you to be!" grandad declined, and went back to his tank testing!!!!! love your video as always......
Learned to braze 16ga aluminum t lap corner joint blue alum flux worked great instructor was Roy Beals hands down awesome welder and Tony Anness heavy plate man ...✌️👍💪😎🔥💎🙏🇺🇸
Looks fantastic and plenty strong! I have finished my brazed casting repairs with a file also and they basically become invisible under paint (most recently I repaired a 3 ton arbor press that had been tipped over - came out great and still holding together fine).
We used to heat up cast same way. Safer to walk away from, way more even heat, and cheaper. Then we would stick weld it with a nickel rod and run the needle scaler over it to clear slag but also compact the welds. Not sure if that's proper terminology but ol timer I worked for said it does some good to hit it with the scaler while it's still hot.
You may get away with it, but the proper procedure with nickel does not use a pre- heat. In fact, you want the base metal to stay as cool as possible. There are good reasons for that, but the explanation requires an understanding of the metallurgy involved. Peening doesn't compact the weld. It expands it to counteract the shrinkage that happens when it cools. A small ball peen hammer is best.
I am not an expert welder as you are, I am a farmer who took a 3 month welding course 30 years ago. At that time, part of our course was acetylene welding with steel rods and brass. I have braze welded manifolds, and looks as if your prep and weld job is as good of job as anyone. I don't grind mine off at the end because the more brass you have welded to the cast, the more strength you have in your weld. I enjoy your videos, you are a very smart man and you have given me plenty of ideas.
It didn't matter a doubtful sixpence what the seam looked like after brazing. Even if it had been superbly pretty, the final appearance after the finishing touches would have been just the same! And the final product was indeed superbly pretty! You are a regular Twinkle-fingers when it comes to metallurgy.
First time I watch your channel and I'm. " digging it " so I'm a new sub. I look forward to learning more from you Sir. Thanks for sharing your experiences and teaching what you already know. God bless
Great video! I have used silicon bronze filler wire on AC with a tig welder and have had successful cast iron repairs before, seems to run great! I'm not sure how you chose to cool your part but a neat trick I learned from abom79 videos is to wrap the part in a welding blanket, it retains the heat enough to allow the part to cool slowly on its own. Awesome repair and thanks for another great video! - Jake
If the part is small, burying it in a bucket of floor dry works well. I always run sil bronze on dc, do you think the ac helps? I've heard that aluminum bronze likes ac but I've never used it.
For cooling down smaller parts, I use a product we have here in Australia called Vermiculite, it’s used in ceilings and sprayed onto steel timber etc. It’s revolutionary, holds the heat really long and allows a slow cooling down. I’d never tig brazed before until I saw This Old Tony, it’s now way my preferred method. I’m going to try it with Castolin, to continue with the learning..
Always good to learn. If it works all good. Interesting the other day when you said you were arc welding rusty. That is my problem. I do a welding project by the end I am average. Then nothing for ages and back to square one. Practice makes perfect.
Really enjoy your video’s, like that your share the good the bad and the ugly, because that’s just the way it is working in the field often faced with a new challenge you take what you know and have at hand and do your best in the enviroment and conditions your given, I learned much from your video’s, THX
It looks good enough. For brazing thick material I use a cutting torch. Makes a large heat area. Either way use a slightly carbonizing flame. For those who don't know that is a flame with less oxygen than normal. A cone that is about 2 or 3 times the normal size for gas welding. By the way, you are a great welder.
Sometimes we would cut cross bars along the crack and when done brazing it would look like a brass wound that had brass stitches. But it's been about 40 years since I worked with brazing, so things are probably done different now.
I couldn't find Blue welding glasses when I was oxy/acetylene welding aluminum sheet, so I got #5 green shade welding glasses then bought a small sheet of blue plexiglass and cut it to fit with the shade #5 and sandwiched them together and it worked GREAT, it took All the Orange glow away. And I could see everything. Another Great Video, THANKS
We always drilled a small hole as near to the end inside the crack as possible to arrest crack propagation on cast iron. We also did that when we were welding sheet metal of auto body that had been previously been prepared but continued to recurrently crack drilling small holes at different locations like where the crack changed directions would help stop cracking with future repairs. Had a 1972 IHC Scout II 4WD half cab that the interior roof metal skin cracked repeatedly and my dad a welder machinist in his earlier years suggested drilling some 3/32 dia holes about every 1.5” along the several inches of cracking and a 1/4” dia hole at the end of the cracks and that was the last time I had to repair/braze the interior sheet metal of the roof half cab. It looked like in general that the half cab had a lot of stress near the rear interior corners on both sides of the cab. But the last fix drilling a few small holes along the crack every 1.5 inches or so and a slightly larger dia hole at the ends oft he cracks and everywhere the crack changed direction fixed the problem and prevented recurrence for the next two years that I had the truck and previously the crack would recur 1-2 times during every hunting season driving in bad roads.
I am a long time expert at repairing boat exhaust manifolds. After decades of brazing and tig welding, I discovered the Flame Spray process ! Normally this process is used for shaft build up but I adapted it for cast iron repairs. It is possible to complete a repair with zero evidence the repair was made. Even if the manifold is broken into pieces. I even end up with a perfect casting texture. I wish I could share a video for information
I watch all your videos and have learned a lot even tho I thought I knew a lot already. That’s the key to the game is always learning my grandfather told me once “If you don’t learn something everyday you’ll be stupid the rest of your life.” Same manifolds and risers on my correct craft Martinique 87 351 Windsor
I like to see quality on the job and I can say that your work is impressive! Hats Off my friend. I come from the auto repair environment; all the welding gets done at the machine shop and I get charged a pretty penny for a weld like that. But, it’s worth every cent! Thank you for sharing.
"No matter how much you think you know, there's somebody that knows something that you don't." ----> I just learned the trick of "Your air quick connect is a small blowing gun!" Simple = Brilliant!
I've used the exhaust port of the die grinder for quick blasts too. But be careful, the same port will also spray oil and could cause issues with welding if not cleaned up
I’ve repaired a lot of cast stuff over the years. One thing I’ve learned is you can do it “wrong” and it’ll last years, and you can do it right and it’ll fail right away. No repairs can be guaranteed with welding “cast” of any material. Awesome video, Thanks For Sharing! Btw- to the OP, don’t read the comments, never read the comments section 😂😂😂
"Why don't you use a rosebud?" For anyone that asks that, YOU pay the acetylene bill. Cheap kerosene vs. expensive acetylene. Do the math. The man is not only a master of the cutting torch, he is a master of the wallet.
A "rosebud" is just a style / kind of a torch, meant to heat up larger pieces / surfaces. It can be fueled by either acetylene or LPG - or even a petrol vapours, if one decides to build a contraption like this one: th-cam.com/video/iOhfv37VLY8/w-d-xo.html (in case you don't understand Russian, turn on CC and choose auto-translation - definitely far from perfect but you'll get the gist of the narration... sorta ;-)
My shop teacher taught me when brazing, when the filler got short, he would let it stick to the work then braze the new rod to the end of the stuck rod and go back to the work. This way Eliminating waste of the rod
Yep, Brazing a new rod on to the end of the old rod was standard practice years ago when everyone was short of money. It becomes a habit that I still do 50 years later.
I was a welder for 45 yesrs and i can tell you this, you never stop learning! When I was a 15 I started working at a welding repair shop and we did a ton cast repairs. We would always pre heat too 400 deg, checked with a tempel stick. We used a old gas oven. Once you started the brazing repair you didn't stop until you were done to maintain the temp. Then the peice was put into a lime box for a SLOW cool down. It would take 24 hours, sometimes longer before it was cool enough to touch. The same process for nickel rod. Most of the repairs were successful. Sometimes we would get a old burned up manifold or a poor quality casting that you couldn't do anything with. The owner of the shop told me a few thing that I will always remember. You can"t screw something up so bad that it can"t be fixed! And no matter how dumb you think somone is you can still learn something from them.
agreed.
Yes, I'm also old enough to remember lowering welded castings to slow cool in the Lime Box.
I can also remember my old boss telling me that every single person in this world knows something that I don't, therefore the best coarse of action is to shut up and learn.
That is exactly how a shop repaired my 1948 Marmon Herrigton 2-1/2 ton truck brake drum for me that was cracked. Never had an issue, but sold the truck several years ago.
If you think you have learned everything, you havent learn anything 🤔
Yep, No where near enough preheat, no interpass heat, and no controlled cooling. (Best way , though is gas weld with REAL cast iron (not nirod) and burry it in a charcoal fire if you do not have a programmable oven. - Totally undetectable repair. ----We used to do 40 or 50 of those ice damaged boat manifolds every spring.
You are a magician my friend. I don’t even know how to weld but I bought a welder and am learning because of you. Thank you.
Learning to weld is a fun but frustrating experience. Totally worth it though. Another great channel for learning is welding tips and tricks.
Super Trooper. When I first started working in an HVAC fabrication shop I was amazed at the work we did. I told my boss I really wanted to learn how to weld.
He told me to grab a spare hood and watch our lead man. By the time he got through with hands on teaching I was in heaven.
Mig and Tig, loved it. Hardest thing to learn was aluminum and the easiest was stainless.
I suck at stick welding though.
@@donniebrown2896 thanks for the info Donnie. I am terrible at all of it haha but I’m learning. I might have to sign up at the local community college because I don’t know anyone that can teach me.
@@Lucas12v q
@@supertrooper7403 classes would definitely be a good way to go but you can learn a lot from youtube and just practice as well. Depends on your situation and goals i guess.
"No matter how much you think you know, there's somebody that knows something that you don't." 💯 great video as usual mate. I call these ones character building exercises or swear jar funding 😂 Cheers, Kurtis 😎👍
That quote should be on tee shirts. Love your channel as well. Always learning something new from the both of you. Have a blessed and safe weekend.
sup mate
Aussie has spoken
Spot on Kurtis you never know everything those who claim to usually don’t know anything about the trade or project that’s being done I’ve been a mechanical engineers for 25 yrs and I’m proud to admit i am still learning everyday always a new technique or challenge stay safe everyone god bless
@@tattoos1988 Usually the engineers catch the flack from the mechanics. But as a mechanic, gonna let you slide this round😂.
As long as it doesn't leak and you can grind it down past the bubbles and flux inclusions it was a successful repair. Thanks for sharing. The most important thing is to get the cast hot enough so the bronze sizzles and flows across the surface. It's the same idea as tinning a solder joint but hotter. A carbon rich flame will reduce creating oxidation. Prefluxed rod is always handy; saves dipping in the can as much. Flux is your friend. Brazing in position helps keep the puddle where you want it. Your emphasis on the correct glasses is something I wish someone had told me 50 years ago. I can't see deep blue or violent any more from gas welding and brazing with no shielding. As always your quiet humility and honesty along with the deep understanding of your craft is what makes your videos so incredibly educational. Kudos
I don't weld with a torch a tremendous amount and brazing isn't that bad but when I weld steel I have to get out the serious shades.
I like to learn how to weld aluminum with a torch and I know with the Flux you use it lights up real bright. You need the blue lenses. I think it was TH-cam welder
" tin man " that sells his own design aluminum welding glasses that supposed to really match up to the bright flame produced.
Glass too, I want to play with some glass and that can get pretty blinding bright.
Is it just me or could you watch a couple of videos a day for this man? Thanks for the educational videos.
it's just you
You can always tell when you are dealing with a fool. They know everything and never admit to needing to learn something new. Beautiful results and great learning experience!!!!!
My uncle in the 50’s had a small welding, repair, and fabrication shop. He had a oven from a kitchen that he would put cast parts in and slowly heat them up, weld them and then over a period of hours slowly turn the temperature down to let them cool properly. Worked for him and the oven cost him very little.
That is called annealing. Help releasing the internal stresses of the metal
That's genius , I used a 5 gallon bucket , filled with quick lime , to let chrome moly suspension arms cool slowly worked great stayed warm for 24 hrs. ,to relieve stress build up from crack repair...
A couple of comments. Cast iron used in these types of applications is usually not the best quality. It's pretty much a lot of slag intermixed with some iron. Trying to adhere filler metal to slag just doesn't work. The higher iron content is necessary for cohesive strength. On another note, brazing loses its cohesive strength around 600 degrees. If the area around the crack is void of grease and paint, i can assure you that the operating temp is above 500 degrees. Grain growth occurs at these elevated temperatures as well and will be evident by a granular surface made up of little squares. These areas will have little to no iron for brazing.
Surface prep may start with grinding, but will inevitably need more work. Grinding tends to smear graphite.(carbon) over the iron molecules essentially sealing them. It is better to use a sharp carbide burr that kinda chips the material away. I have used cove chisels as well.
Welding with cast iron filler is possible too, but you have to deal with hotshortness, which basically means the bottom can fall out ot your puddle.
Sounds like fun, i know.
@@dennisknackstedt18 I've used a cast iron brazing rod over the years on cast iron stoves, manifolds and such, never had a problem. Your comment gave me a real awakening into how far off I was in my prep work, thanks for the tips.
There's a place where I live where ppl drop off their old appliances for recycling. I just stopped by at 1:00 in the morning, loaded an oven up in my pickup, then left. When I was done cooking toxic stuff, I marked on the oven that it had had chemicals inside & was no longer food safe, then I took it back & dropped it off. Worked great! I even got a free oven cord & the burner coils for a heat treat oven I'm planning to build out of the deal.
It doesn't matter what it looks like before you return it to the customer, only what it looks like when you return it to the customer! And this repair looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing and thanks for keeping it real, not hiding anything! Stay safe.
Your work ethic is second to no one. I saw Finnegan on his channel close off all ports and back flow inert gas into the manifold. Seeing your work always gives me faith that work ethic and using one's natural talents still exists in this
" just replace it" society. Thank you sir!!
Love all of your videos brother. I love seeing a tradesman exhibit humility and acknowledge the need to learn constantly
I learned from my dad about 60 years ago. Been learning ever since. The braizing area, that is any are where you want the bronze to flow , must be ground clean. If the part is not hot enough, you will fight it until you are almost finished and then realize that you should have preheated it more. Braizing iron castings is one of my favorite things to do. And it is a very strong and durable repair.
Great attitude towards education. When I was in the fire service, the training officer used to say "It's what you learn, after you know it all, that's important." Really enjoying your videos. Thank you, sir.
Love your philosophy on learning! Thanks for sharing :)
It’s all about learning. And at my the learning comes easy but remembering the next what learned yesterday is the hard part. I enjoy learning from your work. Thank you for sharing
Good advise on protecting your eyes when welding, my grandpa worked as a welder's helper in West Texas, I think in the late 40s/50s and he didn't have any eye protection. He was pretty much blind by the time he was in his late 60s.
I am an advocate for eye safety since I only have one!
Weld came out dang good
im a welder. 42 years old. starting to go blind. ill be lucky if i can see shit by the time im 60. tig tacking without a shade is stupid. :(
I've been flashed so many times. Hated that sand in the eyes feeling.
We always kept milk and potatoes in the fridge at work.
Slice of potato for each eye and milk for fume poisoning from welding galvanized steel.
They do help
@@donniebrown2896 I’ll add a big 👍 to this comment. Potatoes and milk a staple in any welders home. Or should be
@@chrishuber7704 the shop I worked in wasn't really big, the first "all nighter" I pulled there were three crews of fitters and welders . No one had breathing protection, no "curtains" to protect from another's tacking flashes.and of course no air circulating as we were all tig welding. Think I was the first to exit to the storage lot hollering for "hewey". Felt like I was expelling my kneecaps through my nose. One of our lead men told me about the milk trick. Really worked.
I was always told, "A day you don't learn something new is a wasted day". Thanks for teaching me something new today.
They always say that it has to look worse before it can look better. Also always love the common sense and down to earth advise and approach to doing the work.
Nice job. Looks like a good repair to me. We used to weld old manifolds on one-lung John Deeres just like that and they held (forever) well. I enjoy your approach and attitude towards a challenge. Will look for more videos. Kudos all around.
Nice work, the brazing I have done in my career I would just dip the hot rod in the flux and I trailed with the rod and the bronze would draw to the heat .The cast I have worked over the years we would heat in oven do repair usually nickel and put back in oven and step down on heat till ambient temp and turn off. You have a great channel keep up the great work!
Great work! There are very few mechanics who are as humble and therefore brilliant. Thanks for your time.
one quote I've always gone by Failure is the first step to success none of us have learned anything without screwing up along the way turned out great 👍👍👍
Everything you did looked great, I would add: When I do these types of brazing cast iron jobs, just as important as pre-heating, is cooling down slow- I JUST brazed a cast iron crack in a grinder wheel cover this week, pre-heated, brazed, wrapped it up in a fire blanket and then on top a big old comforter folded and doubled/tripled up- When I was first done brazing, I checked it with the laser temp gun and it was around 730 degrees at the weld sight- wrapped it up good and let it sit almost 4 hours, un wrapped to check it and it was STILL 125 degrees- for me, I've had good luck brazing Vises, manifolds, Lathe and mill parts, all kinds of Cast iron and so far (knock wood) havent had anything re-break
Isaac I have been welding all my life I'm 77 and have found that every job is a learning experience! You and Kurtis at Cutting Edge and Dave at the Coach Shop and all the other Job shops in the World have the same thing in common you fix it your way and that is the write way for the job you are working on at the time. The guy with the big mouth is the one that can't fix it. Hay guys if you did the best you know how that is the best that can be done. After all what is welding, heat it up ad some filler let it cool how hard can it be. Sorry about the rant but I see you guys working so hard fixing someone's destroyed stuff and some jocker gives you a thumbs down or he could do better with a jar of peanut butter. My wife the book keeper said that it just amazed here that the Jobs that went out the door paid for worked so much better than the ones that were charge sales. ps you did a grate weld on that freeze crack fixed a lot of them here in Oregon.
Paul A, Amen sir! Every job is indeed a learning experience. I'm 20 years your junior and still learning, whenever you seem think you might have reached the pinnacle, someone will sure enough come by and show you there is still more to go, keep climbing!
Jar of peanut butter butter eh? I am heading out to the shop... I gotta try that 🤣🤣
@@warrenjones744 I'm still working and learning every day what a wonderful world we live in.
Amen!
Paul A
I'm a retired plumber/drainer/gas fitter in my 60's and when I was doing my apprenticeship one of the tradesman said to me...Those who can do, DO, Some of those who can do, also TEACH, some those who can do neither, CRITISE.
I watch those you mentioned Kurtis, Dave and obviously Isaac among others and I learn something every single day. And you're right I can't see how anyone can give these master craftsmen a down thumb.
Just Sayin
@@justunicorn001 easy to ignore plain ignorance from a reprobate mostly Craftsman here watching classic versatile excellence...🤔👍✌️💪🙏🔥🖖🇺🇸
I love how humble you are. That is a great saying as well , no matter how smart you think you are there is someone smarter that can teach you more.
My father who was a tool and die maker and the smartest person I've ever known taught me you can learn something from the dumbest person you know never be too proud to listen.
@@ihdieselman I
Like to take advice and ideas from all sorts, and then try to make better. Cheers.
Very good job. No undercut, no porosity that I could see. Your brazing blended beautifully with the parent material/metal. If I wasn't a welder for twenty two years I would actually pay a bonus on top of your price for this job done this good. You are alot more capable than you know and give yourself credit for. Keep up the great work.
There are some good sticks for welding cast iron. Muggy is a good one. Neighbor that used to weld up dies for a large drop hammer forge company gave me some old rods that you clamped on in the center. Welded on end then flipped over. No numbers left on it. Over 50 years old rod. But what he welded was heated to 800°f. Tough job.
Really enjoy your videos. I'm a retired industrial mechanic. 44yrs of it.
Wish I could keep my welding table that clean ! Thank you for teaching us something new. 🇺🇲
You can't beat that weld, every time I watch one of your vids, I learn a lot. thank you
It’s been a while, glad to see you’re too busy to make/edit a video. Was up late and you popped up, so- just clicked on your link to observe and learn something I didn’t know. Thanks, for all you do, it’s important to younger people.
That's skill & knowledge, when you go into trouble, skill and knowledge pull you out. Thanks for the lesson, I so enjoy watching and learning.
Good repair, I also agree that you can always learn from others even it just an idea that you use and adapt to your own needs. The Flux I use here in Australia is called Castolin, that is for Cast Iron, it is pinkish in color, works well for me. Cheers from John.
I'm a new subscriber and enjoy talents and honesty. I was a welder for many years for a heavy lift crane manufacture.
Thanks for taking the time video/edit and sharing. Boe
Thanks for the sub!
That’s a great thing to remember. There’s always someone that knows something you don’t. Great video!
I come to youtube every day to learn something new. Today i chose this video & glad im did. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!
Fantastic video Issac , my dad worked as a machinist fro 40 yrs at Canadian National Railways and his best friend was a Blacksmith and he was one gifted man, so many years in his trade , as a kid i watched him weld, Braze, repair so many different kinds of material that i thought how do you fix or repair these and he'd explain how he would do it his way and I'd see the finished product and was always amazed at his work, and only shook my head, what did know I was only 11 yrs old then and sometimes were talking castings that stood as tall as him or my father, it was just crazy in such a good way, lots of this is in some countries becoming a lost art and it is an art, 20,30 ,40 or more years of skill that is an art these guys like my dads friend would be like 110 yrs old if they were still alive now, these are things that need to be taught , they will always be needed and this in simple terms means longevity to machines , products that we use in large and small industrial settings, this will always be part of our lives, so its a skill for future generations to learn and maintain, or as red green says if she doesn't find you handsome, she'll find you handy 👍
IC, good job for someone that is learning. Your advice for flux, tip size, eye glasses and heating mixed with your honesty makes this a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanx.
Always get excited when I see you post a video. My folks told me when I was young “if you’re not gonna learn anything then there’s no reason to get up in the morning”. I live my life by that
Well. I have not used a carburizing, cooler flame, ever, for brazing. Twisting the rod and all. So I tuned in to watch a pro. Huh. I would have done it much like you did. All these years, I always thought I was doing it wrong. You never really do stop learning, just like you pointed out. It was a privilege to peek over your shoulder and watch. I'm going to watch some more, you have a new subscriber. Thanks so much!
Hi Isaac, those glasses used by glass blowers are tad different, they are made of so called didymium glass (neodymium and praseodymium salts added to the mix), and they are meant to block SPECIFICALLY that sodium flare (which is a rather narrow spectrum of yellow-orange light). But that's a tad different kettle of fish than that orange "thermal" glow. Those didymium glasses are basically a narrow-band optical filters, and they block only that sodium flare (AFAIK) so they won't be useful (methinks) for any welding or welding-related work.
Apparently they are also good at blocking IR light so they are also useful in blacksmithing, but not in welding. (However, they might be useful in brazing, as the flux contains lot of sodium and it gives off that sodium flare when heated - but then one would need those "regular #5" glasses to block that excessive visible light, so why bother...)
Didymium glasses - see th-cam.com/video/3cxt8i0PYyY/w-d-xo.html - and th-cam.com/video/6Ul8CmUkO4E/w-d-xo.html for more in depth explanations.
BTW, this guy is in that first video is tad wrong, there's no such thing as "neodydimium" - it's just that both neodymium and praseodymium have extremely similar chemical properties and separating them is real pain in the... glass, so that "didymium" ("Greek for "two twins", A) name might be one that people gave it erroneously before they realised it's not just a single element - but the name just stuck.
In a similar fashion we still call hydrochloric acid a "muriatic acid", as at the beginning of modern chemistry chemists used to think that acids are created by combining certain oxides and water (hence the "oxygen" - Greek for "acid creator"), and they couldn't get what element might be behind that hydrochloric acid - and they thought its a combination of an oxygen and some yet undiscovered/ unseparated element, and they've called it "murium". Hence "muriatic acid" - even though it's been like two centuries since people realised that chlorine IS actually an element... But I digress here.
Cheers!
Phillips safety makes lenses that they call borotruview 5.0. They are likely dark enough for welding torch work (nearly 0 uv and ir, 3-7% visible transmission). Colored boro glass glows very bright, you really need shade 5s to work big pieces.
I'd love to try them but at like $200 a pair the green tint starts to sound not so bad. I agree the didymium ones aren't dark enough to really be useful.
Yeah, if you're not doing it every day you want something cheap enough.
Right on, I am 77, still learning new things and enjoy relearning. Your a great teacher. Thanks for sharing.
They ain't one of us , that knows more , than all of us , put together. I'm learning from all of it videos. Keep up the great work. B safe. "Flash"
really enjoy the specter of these repair...always something different, good editing
I’m just getting into welding and my buddy and I picked up an oxy-acetylene torch the other day. Thanks for being an inspiration my dude!
Be extremely careful with it, even after you get confident.
@@donsmith9081 I've owned an oxy set for over 20 years.
I still have a healthy respect for it.
A wise teacher once told me, "Fire and electricity are magnificent slaves, but horrible masters". Words I never forgot.
IC, I get it, but I will say that it cleaned up beautifully! A little paint and you'd never know it was repaired. Great video as always, keep them coming!
Rich
Love the video, love the funky soundtrack too. I'm only beginning with torch cutting/welding - love watching you work; it's how I learn.
Isaac, I'm 77 and a hobby weldor. I always enjoy your videos and I always learn something from you, even when you're welding big stuff. 👍
I've watched a few of your welding repairs jobs . You've got a very good hand and skills in welding heavy-duty jobs. I'm a retired aerospace welder/ sheet metal mechanic. I do side work out of my garage for extra income.
Too much heat is not a good thing with cast been doin this for 48 years i use super cast 90 low and slow small welds and cool off between passes dose a great job and looks good as well
love the way you explain your thoughts before starting ....instead of just seeing the repair we learn the thought process behind it 👍
Agree 100% Isaac,never stop learning,thanks for the video
I don't know anything really, but I do know I love watching this channel! Thank you for another great education!
The day when you know it all is the day you lay down your tools of your trade. Nice video Sir and thank you for posting.
You are the master of your craft. I cannot judge.
Keep up the great work!
Be safe!
Didymium glasses are what glassblowers use, and it will take away the flare from using a torch but bare didymium doesn't have any shade (the blue ones). You can also get didymium glasses that do have a shade. I have used a shade 5 for years and I also use them for the cutting torch. If you need a higher shade you can get glasses for working quartz that will go up to a shade 12
Nice shout out share .✌️👍💪🔥💎😸🤙
A lost art is brazing, I used to be able to do it but no longer can. I liked the video and watched intently as brazing still keeps a spot in my soul. Great finished joint, it cleaned up well by looking at it. Well done for what you were working with!
Thanks for showing us how you repair it learned a lot much appreciated
I love to watch a skilled person at work. I don't need to be an expert in the field, the haul marks of a skilled person are easy to see, planning, care in execution and an awareness that each job will provide knowledge for the next. My respect, unqualified as it is, is great, thank you for taking the time to share.
Always satisfying to watch you work!
Good saying .... Yes there is always someone , somewhere , somehow , that knows something about something that we don't . I like it , Thanks again . I am a rookie , but have been a mechanic all my life from a farm to now a aviation , airframe and power plant mechanic . I have learned a lot from you . You do jobs that would scare the total S*** out of me . I appreciate and respect your Skill level . You are a master at your trade . Very few achieve that .
I don’t understand haha you tackle everything and it always comes out without a doubt outstanding I learn so much from your videos and your knowledge is worth more then gold great video as always
always be learning!!!!!! my grandfather was a gas welding master, he taught me a lot, and forgot more than a lot of folks knew......lol. he once told me how he worked in the ship yards during the war, he was a tank tester, but always wanted to see how them new fangled electric welders worked, "as he called them", he went topside and convinced a welder on lunch break to let him use his hood. well, he must have been a natural, gang boss caught him, inspected his welds, said" you aint one of my welders, but I want you to be!" grandad declined, and went back to his tank testing!!!!! love your video as always......
Nice job , I have brazed several manifolds , I use a white flux looks like Borax powder and it works with regular brass rod .
So have I and it works great, a lot better than that blue flux coated brazing rod.
I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos. Every time is a learning experience.
Learning is a life long endeavor. So says my 100 year old father.
Yep. My grandfather said that he would die on the day he didn't learn something new.
Learned to braze 16ga aluminum t lap corner joint blue alum flux worked great instructor was Roy Beals hands down awesome welder and Tony Anness heavy plate man ...✌️👍💪😎🔥💎🙏🇺🇸
Brazing is a personal favorite and really relaxing to do,life is as you said it-all about learning,great video!
Looks fantastic and plenty strong! I have finished my brazed casting repairs with a file also and they basically become invisible under paint (most recently I repaired a 3 ton arbor press that had been tipped over - came out great and still holding together fine).
Great video! Im here to learn after welding heavy steel for years. Awesome man!
We used to heat up cast same way. Safer to walk away from, way more even heat, and cheaper. Then we would stick weld it with a nickel rod and run the needle scaler over it to clear slag but also compact the welds. Not sure if that's proper terminology but ol timer I worked for said it does some good to hit it with the scaler while it's still hot.
The scaler gun helps release stress in the weld aka peening
@@enja001 thanks I've always wondered what the proper term was
You may get away with it, but the proper procedure with nickel does not use a pre- heat. In fact, you want the base metal to stay as cool as possible. There are good reasons for that, but the explanation requires an understanding of the metallurgy involved. Peening doesn't compact the weld. It expands it to counteract the shrinkage that happens when it cools. A small ball peen hammer is best.
@@maplebones makes sense. Ball 'peen' hammer. After all these years it has a meaning. Thank you kind sir
@@zirzmokealot4600 You're very welcome. If you've ever noticed a blacksmith's hammer with one end beveled, it's called a cross peen hammer.
I am not an expert welder as you are, I am a farmer who took a 3 month welding course 30 years ago. At that time, part of our course was acetylene welding with steel rods and brass. I have braze welded manifolds, and looks as if your prep and weld job is as good of job as anyone. I don't grind mine off at the end because the more brass you have welded to the cast, the more strength you have in your weld. I enjoy your videos, you are a very smart man and you have given me plenty of ideas.
It didn't matter a doubtful sixpence what the seam looked like after brazing. Even if it had been superbly pretty, the final appearance after the finishing touches would have been just the same! And the final product was indeed superbly pretty! You are a regular Twinkle-fingers when it comes to metallurgy.
Ever since first learning of brazing via people like Kieth Rucker and Abom, I’ve found the whole process mesmerising. Always beautiful to watch.
First time I watch your channel and I'm. " digging it " so I'm a new sub.
I look forward to learning more from you Sir. Thanks for sharing your experiences and teaching what you already know. God bless
Thanks and welcome
Awesome video and thanks for always being humble.
Great video! I have used silicon bronze filler wire on AC with a tig welder and have had successful cast iron repairs before, seems to run great! I'm not sure how you chose to cool your part but a neat trick I learned from abom79 videos is to wrap the part in a welding blanket, it retains the heat enough to allow the part to cool slowly on its own. Awesome repair and thanks for another great video!
- Jake
If the part is small, burying it in a bucket of floor dry works well. I always run sil bronze on dc, do you think the ac helps? I've heard that aluminum bronze likes ac but I've never used it.
For cooling down smaller parts, I use a product we have here in Australia called Vermiculite, it’s used in ceilings and sprayed onto steel timber etc. It’s revolutionary, holds the heat really long and allows a slow cooling down.
I’d never tig brazed before until I saw This Old Tony, it’s now way my preferred method. I’m going to try it with Castolin, to continue with the learning..
@@sonofadutchman9315 In Canada we used to use vermiculite in the bottom of the BBQ, lol, but mostly for insulation in attics. Before fiberglass.
Isaac that turned out an excellent job in the end, the finish was fabulous. Thanks for another great video.
Always good to learn. If it works all good. Interesting the other day when you said you were arc welding rusty. That is my problem. I do a welding project by the end I am average. Then nothing for ages and back to square one. Practice makes perfect.
Really enjoy your video’s, like that your share the good the bad and the ugly, because that’s just the way it is working in the field often faced with a new challenge you take what you know and have at hand and do your best in the enviroment and conditions your given, I learned much from your video’s, THX
It looks good enough. For brazing thick material I use a cutting torch. Makes a large heat area. Either way use a slightly carbonizing flame. For those who don't know that is a flame with less oxygen than normal. A cone that is about 2 or 3 times the normal size for gas welding. By the way, you are a great welder.
It's the finished product that counts no matter how you get there, beautiful results. Love your video's very informative.
Sometimes we would cut cross bars along the crack and when done brazing it would look like a brass wound that had brass stitches. But it's been about 40 years since I worked with brazing, so things are probably done different now.
I find that helps spread the stress on the repair and helps against cracking 👍
I couldn't find Blue welding glasses when I was oxy/acetylene welding aluminum sheet, so I got #5 green shade welding glasses then bought a small sheet of blue plexiglass and cut it to fit with the shade #5 and sandwiched them together and it worked GREAT, it took All the Orange glow away. And I could see everything.
Another Great Video, THANKS
smart idea. glad it worked.
Good job. I weld a lot of cast manifolds the 70s and 80s stuff is tricky. My method is ac hf tig 100% argon. using silicone bronze filler rods.
We always drilled a small hole as near to the end inside the crack as possible to arrest crack propagation on cast iron. We also did that when we were welding sheet metal of auto body that had been previously been prepared but continued to recurrently crack drilling small holes at different locations like where the crack changed directions would help stop cracking with future repairs. Had a 1972 IHC Scout II 4WD half cab that the interior roof metal skin cracked repeatedly and my dad a welder machinist in his earlier years suggested drilling some 3/32 dia holes about every 1.5” along the several inches of cracking and a 1/4” dia hole at the end of the cracks and that was the last time I had to repair/braze the interior sheet metal of the roof half cab. It looked like in general that the half cab had a lot of stress near the rear interior corners on both sides of the cab. But the last fix drilling a few small holes along the crack every 1.5 inches or so and a slightly larger dia hole at the ends oft he cracks and everywhere the crack changed direction fixed the problem and prevented recurrence for the next two years that I had the truck and previously the crack would recur 1-2 times during every hunting season driving in bad roads.
I am a long time expert at repairing boat exhaust manifolds. After decades of brazing and tig welding, I discovered the Flame Spray process ! Normally this process is used for shaft build up but I adapted it for cast iron repairs. It is possible to complete a repair with zero evidence the repair was made. Even if the manifold is broken into pieces. I even end up with a perfect casting texture.
I wish I could share a video for information
Think I found a video that describes the process? th-cam.com/video/zgv9gAXssgM/w-d-xo.html
Very nice work indeed. Looks like it is certainly sealed up well, and looks good too. Thumbs Up!
I watch all your videos and have learned a lot even tho I thought I knew a lot already. That’s the key to the game is always learning my grandfather told me once “If you don’t learn something everyday you’ll be stupid the rest of your life.” Same manifolds and risers on my correct craft Martinique 87 351 Windsor
I truly enjoy you vast knowledge and endless learning I gain from it, thank you :)
We always bought bronze rods with the Flux already on them. That way you never had to worry about if it was the right Flux or not.
They work good for most stuff .. that's what I use ...
I wish I knew 1/10th what you know about metal and welding. You are a true master.
Happy to see the grinder guard still on, i see so many without it when they could do the job just fine with it on. Nice work overall as always!
Safety police...thanks so much.
Turned out great. I use cast rod, I prefer like metals. It is very expensive and never see anyone else use it.
I like to see quality on the job and I can say that your work is impressive! Hats Off my friend. I come from the auto repair environment; all the welding gets done at the machine shop and I get charged a pretty penny for a weld like that. But, it’s worth every cent! Thank you for sharing.
Brother man... you have a golden touch... lol.... brazing is soft & sweet.... a'ho well'up..
I enjoy watching your videos. The fact that you explain what and why you’re doing it that way. Keep up with the videos
"No matter how much you think you know, there's somebody that knows something that you don't." ----> I just learned the trick of "Your air quick connect is a small blowing gun!" Simple = Brilliant!
the exhaust port of the die grinder I believe. Ya I noticed that too
I've used the exhaust port of the die grinder for quick blasts too. But be careful, the same port will also spray oil and could cause issues with welding if not cleaned up
I’ve repaired a lot of cast stuff over the years. One thing I’ve learned is you can do it “wrong” and it’ll last years, and you can do it right and it’ll fail right away. No repairs can be guaranteed with welding “cast” of any material. Awesome video, Thanks For Sharing!
Btw- to the OP, don’t read the comments, never read the comments section 😂😂😂
Love your work Isaac!,,class is at My Shop, coffees on. ;)
Very nice work Isaac you know we all learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing.
"Why don't you use a rosebud?" For anyone that asks that, YOU pay the acetylene bill. Cheap kerosene vs. expensive acetylene. Do the math. The man is not only a master of the cutting torch, he is a master of the wallet.
Acetylene is actually cheaper to buy in Ireland than the big bottle of propane
A "rosebud" is just a style / kind of a torch, meant to heat up larger pieces / surfaces. It can be fueled by either acetylene or LPG - or even a petrol vapours, if one decides to build a contraption like this one: th-cam.com/video/iOhfv37VLY8/w-d-xo.html (in case you don't understand Russian, turn on CC and choose auto-translation - definitely far from perfect but you'll get the gist of the narration... sorta ;-)
@@ferguson20diesel49 Perhaps, but a small bottle of propane will outlast several bottles of acetylene.
@@maplebones yes but propane doesn't burn as hot and it uses more oxygengen
On the farm we often preheated items by leaving them on the wood stove for a while ... now THAT'S cheap! :)
I really admire how humble you are. Great work!
I appreciate that!
My shop teacher taught me when brazing, when the filler got short, he would let it stick to the work then braze the new rod to the end of the stuck rod and go back to the work. This way Eliminating waste of the rod
I've seen this done dude was a machine.
Yep, Brazing a new rod on to the end of the old rod was standard practice years ago when everyone was short of money. It becomes a habit that I still do 50 years later.
Hell ya I do that with TIG rodd to get the most out of em
Very interesting. Thanks so much for posting. I've always wanted to learn more about welding and your videos are a source of inspiration.