Got an oxy-acetylene set up in the garage recently and was playing around with the flame color and cone length. Initially there was a gap between the flame and the nozzle when i opened up the acetylene. For the life of me I couldn't release oxygen without flame shutting itself down. Re-visited this video, reduced the acetylene flow, brought down the gap to the flame and added oxygen slowly to get a beautiful blue cone. Thanks a lot, Paul (and Mitch). Small things like these are super important for a learner to take each step forward. Keep up the great work. There's no other resource with this level of detailing on TH-cam for us, garage learners.
Sorry it took me so long to find your comment... Yes, it sounds like your acetylene was open too much, but he figured it out.. Thanks for liking our channel..
@@paulbrodieThanks for the reply :) In the meanwhile, your videos have helped me to reach the last legs - seat stays - of my 1st bike! And I am sure there are many others like me :) Thanks coach!!!
You are most welcome. Seatstays are not easy, and I too struggled at first. That's great you have almost finished your first frame. Congrats! And thanks for watching...
Great Job. I am a retired vocational instructor and I have been looking around for a video to teach me brazing. Looked at a lot hackers, but you have done an excellent job , Thank you.
I was just practising fillet brazing and stopped to take a break and think about what I was doing wrong and right and saw your video, perfect timing. Great video. Thank you
I have never done this process or even had it explained to me until I watched your channel. I just built myself a cargo bike for riding with my dogs and I used flux core for everything, its ugly but works. I'd like to be able to learn to braze, first I need to invest in that equipment. But I need to own a torch anyway. Thank you for showing me why I need it soon lol Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge, you're a very good teacher. I appreciate you
I put in a search for Brazing - the first lasted about 15 secs before I got bored with introductions, etc... Next was Dude teaching in college, making bronze trees... That was cool, but not so informative. Then here... . I like your teaching style Paul. Calm, sensible, informative, even the background music was toned down, so we could hear clearly everything you said. . I can solder, arc/tig weld, but it's been awhile since I brazed my home (ship)-built morse key and needed a bit of a refresher before I tackle an upcoming small brazing job. I was not disappointed. Subscribed.
This is an excellent video, Paul, thank you for making it. I want to improve my brazing skills, and I've been practicing with icicles, but it is quite challenging to do these, without a self-fluxed, and using 15% silver rod. Probably not the best rod for this trick, I reckon-I need to get some others to try.
Thanks for liking our video. Building icicles can be tricky, but don't give up. Silver content can be expensive, so get bare bronze rods, I use 3/32". The automatic fluxer is a great help too, but I know that not everyone has one...
Thank you so much Paul. I learnt to Oxy Weld a lifetime ago but have been using a MIG for the last few years. On the back of finding your channel I am off to buy a small oxy set and start repairing a few frames that I have been sitting on for too long. Thanks again. Jeff
@@paulbrodie For sure my friend. Going to practice my brazing and replace rear dropouts on two of my BMX bikes plus fabricate some bits and bobs on my Honda CT110 race bikes. Just need to get a lathe now (hahahaha). Back in the day, my late Dad was a machinist / fitter for Clyde Engineering in Sydney Aust. Keep up the great work and looking forward to watching more of your content. I will give your channel a shout out on one of my shows "The Postie Bike Podcast" ..... have a great day. Jeff
You're an inspiration to me, Paul Brodie. I got into metalworking just last year, and I realized I don't want to be an ironworker, I want to be an artisan, like you.
Well thank you very much. That's a very nice compliment. I hope you do work at it and become an Artisan. Remember, it does take time. I have been at it 57 years...
Hi I used to build frames with my father George Longstaff in the UK 🇬🇧 very nostalgic video for me . We only used the liquid flux in the gas for fillet brazing for a smoother Finish and kept the frames in multi directional spinning jigs when brazing to help keep them in line . The noise of the dyno file brings back memories. We built bikes ,trikes tandems & tandem trikes . Happy days google George Longstaff we built the first ever 2WD mountain trike . 😁
Yes, you definitely have had a lot of experience! Building trikes and tandems is not for the faint of heart. They are definitely a lot harder than a regular hardtail. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Love it! Thanks. My background is with industrial batteries, a lot of welding lead. Years ago I learned that it was important to not have too much oxy which is what you called “oxidizing”. And what you called “neutral” I called a soft flame. Awesome channel, I’ll be back!
I've been hoping/waiting for this for years from you Paul, these videos are awesome. Laughed my ass off when you burnt yourself at 22:13 after stating you were not going to wear gloves and were going to be careful.
@@paulbrodie Dexterity with gloves and tiny tig/brazing wire isnt the best, i totally get it...Sometimes i feel like too much safety gear puts you into a bubble and makes you forget the big dangers. Little burns/cuts remind you to be careful
hey Paul, ill be travelling to the UK for a frame building course, and now watching this to get me a little up to speed! making me so excited to start out!
I think stalagmite would be a better descriptor than icicle on the braze stacking. I've been welding as a hobbyist for 47 years and never heard of an inline fluxer. That is kinda neat. Don't think I would get one as most of my welding is tig or mig but brazing has always been kind of relaxing to do. Bought a jewelers torch awhile back as I have always liked making little sculptures. Currently gearing up to do metal casting as one bucket list item is to make a 1920-ish Indian from scratch. Which is why I started watching your videos, when I found the Whippet video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!!!
What a godsend! This information is gold! Why doesn't this channel have a gazillion views and subscribers?!? People need to wake up! This video alone gets a Like/Subscribe/Bell
Hey Paul Brodie! You're back in my feed! Nice! Great video! I had never heard of an automatic fluxer before and I've been brazing for decades. Thanks for the tip. Usually what I've noticed when people think about lubricating an oxygen bottle, it's those coarse, rusty threads the cap screws onto. I just scribble on them real good with a pencil and let the graphite go to work. It's an old woodworking trick my grandpa taught me. (He did it a lot on the top surface of his table saw. ..and tight door jambs and hinges ..and on the pieces of our fishing poles that sock together. ..). I'm going to be making ice cycles within the hour. I need that kind of practice. I notice my brazed joints look a lot like my soft solder joints with not much stacked up
Hi Paul, I would love to see a video with more information about your home made fluxer! Maybe even plans on how we could build our own??? 😃 Or at least the design principles. Thanks for teaching us how to go fast and look cool... and stay safe too...
Tarantino needs to make a movie in which some serious sh*t goes down in a metals shop just so that he can cast Christopher Walken to play you, Mr. Brodie. And, btw, great video! As a person who’s always been interested in this skill but never pursed it, I find your presentation engaging and easy to follow!
Thanks Paul. I'm planning to build a large scale model RC airplane (about 4M span) with a brazed chrome moly tubing fuselage with tubing ranging from 3/16" to 1/2"' diameters. Is there a simple way to create the form fitting joints of smaller tubing? Also, I would like to use a Oxy-Mapp torch I have on hand vs.a Oxy-acetylene setup. Pros and cons? Thanks.
If you have a milling machine you can make a fixture to hold the small tubes and then mitre them with an end mill. I have only ever used oxy-acetylene, never mapp gas or propane. Sorry I cannot advise you on that...
Where would you use a bronze vs nickel silver brazing rod? Also, can you create a fillet braze by first starting with a nickel silver braze and then follow that with a bronze fillet? Thanks, Steve
On a bicycle frame, I use 1/16" nickel silver for pinch lugs, brake bosses, and to start the fillet brazes. It is strong, and has slightly better flow characteristics than bare bronze. Yes, I always start the fillet braze with a small pass of nickel silver. Bare bronze rod (3/32") has better characteristics for building up a larger fillet. Good questions!
WOW...great instruction! I learned more little things from you in the time spent watching this vid than I have learned in years of messing around with brazing!! As I have always believed when doing many types of work, the ease of doing the job AND THEN quality you produce is in the DETAILS!! THANK YOU!!
I'd say that your automatic fluxer was a good investment, you got that the same year I was born, lol. I'm just starting out learning how to braze, I've never done any type of metalwork before, but this has always intrigued me. So thank you for the video, it was very informative.
A lot of folks don't want to pay for an automatic fluxer, but they really are a good investment that can literally last a lifetime. So glad I have mine. Thanks for watching our video.
Your bracing-skills are excellent, Paul! As are your skills in general. Beautiful creations you make, and your explaining is pare none. Say hello to Mitch
Thanks for the video Paul you've taught me a lot. I have no intention of ever building a bicycle frame but I do need to learn how to braze and weld. This will get me quite a ways down the road. I have a project where I need to stick some round tubing on a piece of angle and this should allow me to do that. Keep the good stuff coming.
Thank you Paul. I found this video immensely helpful as I try to learn brazing myself through trial and error through reading books, watching videos, and of course bugging my friends who have built frames. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative and will serve as valuable resources for anyone. Many thanks.
Silver brazing some cable guides today. I've only done it a few times so nearly no experience, especially with tuning a proper small flame. This is just what I needed. Thanks Paul! - "some of those TH-cam videos where the flux is just piled on there" - lol that's me haha. :D
I have only brazed with oxy-acetylene. That's what I would recommend. I don't know of any long term frame builders that use anything else, like Mapp or Propane. There must be a reason for that. Thanks for watching....
Back when MAPP was introduced, the story was that Propane is a 2500°F Flame and Acetylene is a 6500°F Flame, and so MAPP was to fill that gap with a 4500°F Flame. At the time, going from Propane to MAPP was a night and day difference. Lately, I have both read and experienced that MAPP is less different than it was early on (on the cooler side). I would really like to hear what the REAL experts have to add to this account.
Hey Paul, I can’t believe it took me this long to discover your channel. I have been a huge fan since I was a kid in the 90’s. I’ve actually been in the basement where (I was told) you first started making bikes professionally.
now you are doing real brazing. a number of videos on YT are entitled "brazing" but they are doing silver soldering. i learned brazing at 16 or 17 before i learned to weld. a close neighbor showed me how to braze correctly, he worked brazing at Pratt and Whitney jet engine division
Also interested in surface prepping suggestions as it helps with whetting and capillary action and contamination that acts as an anti-flux. Great video once again, thanks!
Here goes nothing lol You said the heat pulled the solder to the I side. The only thing I've ever done was sweat copper. And I was told, you only heat up the out side peice, then wants the solder starts to melt the inner peice pulls the solder in.. I didn't know if copper and the metal your soldering would be the same. It just got me wondering if I was told wrong many years ago lol O and I Thank you for the video!!!!!😇
There is some truth to what you said... that is for soldering. I was brazing, which is different. Different filler rod, different fuel, and different techniques. No, I can't say you were told wrong all of those years ago. Thanks for watching...
Hi! Paul. I discovered your channel about a week ago and am scrambling to get caught up on the content. I'm more interested in motorcycles than bikes, but really appreciate the fabrication content regardless. I don't understand the process of pre-brazing with nichol silver and then over brazing the fillet with bronze? What's the purpose as opposed to just doing the fillet? I'm thinking the bronze would migrate into the joint by capilary action when doing the fillet? What's going on there? CHEERS
Yes, you can just create a fillet with the 3/32" bare bronze rod. There are likely many builders who do that. Each rod has it's own characteristics, and I like to take advantage of the best of each rod. They are both strong, but nickel silver has slightly better flow characteristics, and the bronze brazing rod is easier to build up into a fillet. If you only use the 3/32" bronze rod and make only one pass, it's hard to know if the bronze really wicked into the space between the two tubes... Using the 1/16" nickel silver rod, and making a very small pass, I "know" the filler material has fully wicked into that intersection. I'm a #fussyframebuilder so that's why I do things a certain way.
I've done 3 motorcycle frames from scratch using brazing. I just wish more people were still keeping the technique alive , when it comes to motorcycle frames. Sadly it's extremely difficult to find good info on the subject here on TH-cam . However, this channel has given me some good tips to use , and I've been able to apply a few to my last frame build.
This is great - perfect timing in my journey! Will you be doing something on fillet brazing some joints on a frame? Weld order; amount of brass to aim for; and even how to file down would be great. Your videos explain things much better than I have seen anywhere else! Thank you!
Great introduction! I’m starting a gig in Automotive restoration, and will need to learn how to braze. This is a great way to get an idea and I’ll be spending after hours hopefully practicing myself! It reminds me of soldering, which is an art unto itself.
Brazing could be useful in auto restoration. Years ago I used to work right next to an auto body shop that did a lot of resto work on MG TC's and such. Not so much brazing, but tacking with the Mig torch when patching rusty panels etc. Good luck, and thanks for watching....
So as someone who does welding mig and tig I can't help to think why braze? I have seen some custom drag motorcycles with very powerful engines that have a brazed frames is it because it more of a traditional type of metalworking? I have never done it before but cant help to think why braze when it could be welded. Thanks for the video I would love to have ago at some point looks really nice.
It's just a different technique. Fillet brazing can be very beautiful. Putting small brazeons on to a bicycle frame is best done with silver solder. If you ever change the cable routing they are easy to remove.
Hello Paul, First my comment, you are a master at your skills Sir, Thank You for sharing. I too have worked with metal (and wood) all my life, as a Tool & Die maker, Machinist, Engineer, and Boatwright. We are probably contemporary by age. My questions, do you always use the line gasser for flux, You always add paste flux before heating so are these being used in conjunction with each other? Have you ever used an Argon shielding gas with the oxy-acetylene as an inline flux? Your shop is nicely set up, please offer up a video tour one day Thanks, Looking forward to your response
If I am brazing, I always use both fluxes. In conjunction with each other, works very well. I have not used an Argon shielding gas.You are not the first to ask for a shop tour. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie Thanks so much for responding so quickly. Do you ever work with braze rods that are flux coated (silver, nickel silver or bronze?). I'd like to know your opinion on using these fluxed rods instead of bright wire and paste flux. I tend to favor these for my marine fabrication as well as casting repairs. I also find it interesting that you work in both SAE and MM. Most of your shop dwgs are in SAE while you measure your frames in MM and use metric threads. Is this a function of the bike industry being MM standards? Or just because when we started out so many years ago the Imperial system was what we were taught? I'd also like to ask where you are located? Thanks Again, Paul Maselli "TheMobileBoatwright".
@@TheMobileBoatwright Flux coated rods are ok if that's all you have, but I prefer my system of paste and automatic fluxer. I was taught Imperial and then Metric showed up. Bicycles are a mix. The tube OD's are Imperial, yet the wall thickness is Metric. I am in Langley, BC, Canada, eh? Thanks for watching!
Yes, that can work, but the automatic fluxer really is the best because it is always adding flux to the work area. Once you've used one it's hard to go back to not having one.....
Hey Paul. I enjoy your videos. Liked and subscribed. I'm a 77y/o retired respiratory therapist in the US. I was taught that oxygen bottles were always green no matter where you were on the planet. Is it different where you live? Or, has your blue bottle been painted over?
Thanks Bill.. I bought that oxygen bottle "as is". It was blue. I got it certified, then had it filled at a different company, and no one said a word about the color of the bottle..
@@paulbrodie That's interesting. I would've thought that somewhere along the line there would have been an international agreement. But, we are non-metric (stupid), so maybe we're the only ones who use green. I'll see if I can find out more about it.
I asked chatGPT what color denotes oxygen in Australia. This is the anwer I got: In Australia, oxygen tanks are typically green in color. The green color is used to distinguish them from other types of gas cylinders and to indicate that they contain medical-grade oxygen. It's worth noting that specific regulations or standards regarding the color of oxygen tanks may vary, so it's always a good idea to consult local guidelines or authorities for the most accurate and up-to-date information.
Paul, can I use an oxyacetylene torch to repair a bronze statue using a silicon bronze rod? Most people use TIG welding, but it just too expensive for me. Everyone talks about bronze brazing, but not bronze brazing BRONZE. I wonder if it’s not possible because the statue and the rod have the roughly same melting temperature. I want to use silicon bronze filler rod, because the bronze I used in my sculpture is also silicon bronze. This should create an even patina and hide the repairs.
Good questions! I have very little experience brazing and repairing bronze, sorry. I suggest trying a very small amount. That will give you an indication if it wants to, or not. Remember to clean everything very well, adjust the torch properly, and use clean flux.
Great video and tutorial, thank you!! May I ask what shade of glasses do you use -- 3 or 4? I mean, IF you were thinking safety first instead of 3rd ;-) I've been looking for 4 but can't find any, using 3. Thanks much!
Ryan, thanks for liking our videos. I inherited my brazing glasses from my father; he used them in the UK in the early 60s. I have no idea what number shade they are, sorry.
I'm just starting to mess around with brazing and your content is amazingly clear and useful. Can you point me to any videos in actually welding thin metal using the same process as brazing?
Thanks Mike. We did 3 videos on brazing and silver soldering. What other videos are out there (similar, but welding...) I do not know, sorry. Just do a search as see what pops up...
I've recently started to play around with a cheap mini oxy-acetylene set from the hardware store. I use flux powder that I got for free from a company that quit brazing. I mix it with deionized water to make a sticky paste, which works quite well. They sold me some nickel silver cadmium rods for scrap price. (Yes, I have good ventilation. Safety third.) I braze scrap bicycle frame pieces for practice and I dream to make a freak bike some day. It doesn't need to be very tough, just tough enough for some show rides. What I wanted to say though, is that you can clearly see when nickel silver cadmium melts, because it's a little dull when solid but becomes mirrorish shiny when molten. That's a really nice indicator.
Yes, you certainly are doing it on the cheap. But it sounds a bit sketchy to me. You say the frame doesn't need to be very tough. I disagree. You want to overbuild it, so it NEVER breaks. Also, buy the best flux. It's all detailed in our second brazing video. Flux is very important. I use nickel silver, but not nickel silver cadmium.
@@paulbrodie thank you for your reply, Paul. You're absolutely right with your attitude, always to overbuild so that the bike never breaks. What I wanted to say, is that my frame will never be used in a mountain biking application. It will be ridden on smooth flat pavement, with no competition whatsoever. But you can be sure that I won't bet my life or my health on bad craftsmanship. The flux that I got is intended to be used with my particular brazing rods. Someone, who has more knowledge in brazing than me, thinks it's the best for the application. I guess I'm the weakest link in the chain 🤷♂️
@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul, I decided to build a spring to fit the shape of the tool a little better. How can I send ya pics? you have an email I can send them to? I dont have facebook or instagram
Hello, I need some advice, how would you suggest someone silver braze a stainless steel ferrule on to a stainless steel keg? I'm trying to do what is shown in the video posted on the goodwelds channel "Tig welding 304 stainless 4" tri clamp fitting in ABS brewing fermenter". I'm not a tig welder, but I have brazed before. I'm thinking about cutting the hole so the ferrule doesn't fall through, but rests on a lip. Would it be better to braze it on the inside out or from the outside in? How would you do it? Thanks for any suggestions. Cheers.
Hello, we need to be very careful with the choice of words here. You said "silver braze". Do you mean silver solder? They are different, so I need to know exactly what you mean... If you are silver brazing, what rod are you using?
@@paulbrodieHi, I meant silver brazing. I am using Harris Safety-Silv 56 (flux coated silver brazing alloy) 1/16" x 18" rods. They have a label stating they have a fluidity 8 rating. I guess I could use solder, but thought brazing would be better.
@@snappingbear I have never used those rods you have. So, I'm not sure I can answer your question. I think you need to set up a test situation. Get some stainless that is the same type and thickness as the keg, and try brazing / silver soldering in a ferrule. This way you can also experiment with tip size, and size of the cone. Everything has to be very, very clean, and don't over heat the flux because that never works...
Hey Paul, Thanks so much for all of your videos! At one point or another I saw a clip where you talked about which specific type of Nickel-Silver rod you use. For the life of me & after re-watching half or more of your library I cant find that clip.. Can you share with us the type & content of Nickel-Silver rod you typically use? Thanks again & looking forward to more videos!
fwiw, I settled on 1/16" GF72 nickel silver brazing rod from the gas flux co. Not sure if this is the same thing Paul is using, but its what GasFlux folks recommended, so I'll try it out. Thanks again Paul! We all owe you a debt of gratitude for everything you've shared with us on this channel! Looking forward to everything that is yet to come!
The only fluxes that I have are a whit almost powder, is that type of Flux ok to use? I didn't even know you could get flux that runs in line, when using inline flux do not have to put any flux on the metal before starting?
You have a white flux... It may be ok, maybe not. We have 2 brazing videos. Between them, there is all of the info on what rods and fluxes I use, and pictures of the labels, etc. Yes, when I am brazing steel, I use both fluxes. It's the best way. First I apply the paste flux on the COLD steel, then braze. The torch has an inline fluxer, that holds a clear, stinky clear liquid. Smells very toxic. This is what mixes with the acetylene gas, and comes out as a flame. Hope I have helped....
This was the best complete introduction to brazing and controlling the heat I have seen and it is very helpful. I know the work you show is more structural, but I work on yard art and use brazing material instead of plating to coat parts of a piece. So what I need is flat icicles. The parts have a variable thickness so my base gets away from me and is uneven as I move from 3/4" to 1/4" material. It may be that I need to work smaller areas. Do you have any video where you use brazing for this type of application?
Bo, we only have the 2 videos dedicated to brazing. It sounds like the issue might be heat control, if it "gets away from you". If you're going from 3/4" down to 1/4" you will definitely be adjusting your flame to suit. Are you doing that?
@@paulbrodie thank you for giving me a better starting point than I had. I'm an old bicycle rider in Shakopee, MN. I got to know Cecil Behringer, if you know of him. He worked with titanium.
Hi Paul, i wish i have found your channel before! Great contents. The explanation of the flame type is what i was looking for. Would be cool if you can film it with a proper exposure in order to see the variations in shape. Ciao!
So informative. Really appreciate guys taking the time to share this kind of stuff! These skills are something to be really proud of. No matter how advance technology gets I think there will always be a need to join one piece of metal to another.
I would think that brazing copper to copper would be very tricky. I have never done it. I would probably use silver solder. I set my gauges at 2-4 lbs pressure. That would be for a small job. You never mentioned how big the copper is. If there is a lot of mass, you will have to increase the pressure to get a larger flame.
Yes, there are probably Rules of Thumb for pressures. In the Real World, there is probably a lot more leeway. For my small torch, a Victor J28, I use a zero tip, and a one. Do I change the pressure when switching tips? Never. If I use my big torch with a number 4 tip, do I change the pressure for that? I'm thinking back, and I would have to say no. I set pressures between 2 and 4 psi.
Hello Mr. Brodie, as you are very knowledgeable about soldering, I have a question. I have a motorcycle frame from the Harris company in England. This was soldered with SIF Bronze 101. Which gases do I need to re-solder one or two solder joints! Oxygen and ...? thank you for the information greeting Karsten
Sorry if this is an irrelevant question but I want to seal the bottom seam of an oil lantern. Should I braze or solder it? It’s very thin metal. Possibly steel or tin.
Without seeing it, I would suggest trying solder. Much less heat, so if you don't get it right, less chance of destruction. Spend time to get it clean and sanded, if possible, apply flux and be careful. Don't overheat. Try to make the solder flow with the least amount of heat.
I have some 1-1/2” stainless tubing 035 wall that my work was throwing out years ago. I’d like to make a frame with it. Thinking of oxy acetylene brazing. Any reason not to? What type of flux and filler? I made one frame of 4130 in the past and that’s my only experience.
Your 1.5" tubing would only be good for the downtube, possibly, and then you would have to find all of the other tubes in stainless. I would only Tig weld a stainless frame, and then you have to purge inside the tubes. A lot of extra work. And stainless frames have been known for tube failure. My advice? Stick to 4130. It's relatively easy to use, and usually bomb proof....
You built E.T.’s finger not an icicle. ‘Elliot’ Thanks for the tips and your delivery is pleasant. Its important to be pleasant as a teacher. Some people are a wealth of knowledge but ruin it with poor delivery. Thanks again.
Great Video from a great person. Can you make a video on building and using a Bob Beck protocol. The excuse "I've never done that before", won't wash I have watched other videos of yours. Good luck.
Hi, I've got a problem when I'm trying to braze fill pitting caused by oxidation. I'm trying to fill the pitting on an exaust to smooth out the surface with silver or bronze before chrome or ceramic paint and the problems I encounter is that it doesn't stay in the hole but flows around from where I want it to be. Also at one point it will "explode" the puddle when trying to add more silver or bronze to fill te hole. I'm using flux covered rods. Do you have any ideas of what I´m doing wrong? Please disregard any and all writing errors, english is not my native language.
Your English is fine, not a problem.. Trying to braze / fill an old exhaust pipe is one of the hardest things, so don't feel bad. It is old metal that has probably been through thousands of heat cycles. And now you have added a few more intense heat cycles. You need to prep very well, get the steel down to base metal. Having an automatic fluxer would help, but not everyone has one. If not, applying paste flux to the cold metal might help, but like I said, it is a very difficult job and chances of success are small. All the best in 2024!
So when you solder do you do one joint at a time? When do you reflux a joint? If it gets too hot do you start over or just wire brush it clean and flux it again? When someone has brassed a part and you want to weld it. How do you get rid of the brass?
I first tried oxy acetylene welding and brazing in high school. Your videos have been very helpful, Thank You. I'll never forget a British motorcycle frame that was clear coated over the bare steel to showcase the fillet brazing. From 1/8 in. to 1/2 in. wide, perfect, evenly spaced ripples. When I tried to duplicate this, my appreciation of the craftsmanship was humbling. I mentioned this to a friend who is far more knowledgeable who said that was done with Sifbronze. Have you ever heard of this? Also, your shop and your methods are an inspiration, Thank You for sharing. After watching some of your other videos I find that we are kindred spirits. I too own a H-D Sprint.
Hi Don, Thanks for liking our videos, and that's great you own a Sprint! Model? The brazing style you are referring to has been called "a stack of dimes". That is definitely hard to do, perhaps it was Sifbronze, but perhaps it was Tig-brazing. I think for me it would be easier with Tig. I will check it out...
I have learnt so much in such a short time. Thank you such a great video tutorial. In one of your videos you silver soldered the joint and then brazed over the top to produce a lovely blended join. is the Silver solder there for strength or some other reason. Hugh
Hi Hugh, if you look through the comments you will see that I have answered this issue many times, and I talk about it directly in the fillet brazing video. You are confusing silver solder with nickel silver. They are completely different! Silver solder melts at a much lower temperature, and usually has a content of 45% or 56% silver. I use nickel silver from Soudotec and the part # is 6800 and it has ZERO % silver. Because both rods have "silver"in the name I think that's where the confusion comes from. I did not name the rods. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the overview of your brazing process. I'm looking into brazing so I can attempt to braze two broken mounting ears back onto an old cast iron exhaust manifold where it bolts to the cylinder head. What input would you have on preheating the casting before working? I'll be checking out your fillet brazing video as well as that will apply where the flanges meet the rest of the manifold.
Thanks Paul, for the great instructional videos, Stumbled across the 'Romax' build whilst doing some research and have now binged lots of you videos......GREAT STUFF! Done my fair share of silver soldering on all sorts of small machines, clocks and braze on bike bits. However, Brazing is a different animal. Having trouble finding the right supplies here in Australia.....any suggestions? aggh! (hate those pre fluxed rod!) and in need of bit more practice before tackling the brazing on the frame. Love all the motorbikes in the background. Cheers from Oz Trev-(R)
Just a thought, Turn the heat brick on its side, then drill multiple hols in it and have some 5mm studs made up that protrude about 20mm (3 quarter inch ) then fit the studs depending on the job in hand. Theñ rest the job on the studs. That way you waste no gas heating the brick up.
I believe the purpose of the flux is to stop the steel oxidising which would prevent the bronze from wetting. So the important conclusion from the icicle experiment is the poor join to the steel base. Also be careful with flux - boron causes infertility! Thanks Paul, love your videos.
I believe the flux has 2 purposes. The first is to "help prevent" the steel from getting too hot, and so allow the bronze to adhere. Too much heat will cook the flux, but it does help. The second is to help the bronze (or whatever filler rod..) to flow. Don't worry, I'm too old to have kids.
Without a huge investment in equipment, what are your thoughts on using MAPP with a torch on a hose with maybe a fluxed rod or powder? Obviously, not a production option but for practice and light duty?? Thanks for all your lessons.
I have never used MAPP so can offer no opinion whatsoever. Sorry. When I first started brazing in high school all we had was flux coated rods. Oxy-acetylene really is the way to go. Thanks for watching.
Hi I use propane with oxygen as acetylene gas is very expensive in the U.K. and a very high rental for the Bottles , do you think that’s ok , I seam to do ok but would value your opinion 👍
To be honest, I have never brazed with propane and oxygen. Always oxy-acetylene. It seems propane can work, but I feel that acetylene is better. I don't know of any professional frame builders using propane.
@@paulbrodie I’m just a hobbyist that does old cars up and sometimes need a none Structural job taking care of , I’ve Tig & Mig for other stuff , thanks for your answer 👍
Got an oxy-acetylene set up in the garage recently and was playing around with the flame color and cone length. Initially there was a gap between the flame and the nozzle when i opened up the acetylene. For the life of me I couldn't release oxygen without flame shutting itself down. Re-visited this video, reduced the acetylene flow, brought down the gap to the flame and added oxygen slowly to get a beautiful blue cone. Thanks a lot, Paul (and Mitch). Small things like these are super important for a learner to take each step forward. Keep up the great work. There's no other resource with this level of detailing on TH-cam for us, garage learners.
Sorry it took me so long to find your comment... Yes, it sounds like your acetylene was open too much, but he figured it out.. Thanks for liking our channel..
@@paulbrodieThanks for the reply :) In the meanwhile, your videos have helped me to reach the last legs - seat stays - of my 1st bike! And I am sure there are many others like me :) Thanks coach!!!
You are most welcome. Seatstays are not easy, and I too struggled at first. That's great you have almost finished your first frame. Congrats! And thanks for watching...
Great watching a skilled person demonstrate and talk in such a relaxed and eloquent way. Something very ZEN about Paul. Thanks
Thank you Dick. Appreciate your comments.
Great Job. I am a retired vocational instructor and I have been looking around for a video to teach me brazing. Looked at a lot hackers, but you have done an excellent job , Thank you.
I was just practising fillet brazing and stopped to take a break and think about what I was doing wrong and right and saw your video, perfect timing. Great video. Thank you
I have never done this process or even had it explained to me until I watched your channel. I just built myself a cargo bike for riding with my dogs and I used flux core for everything, its ugly but works. I'd like to be able to learn to braze, first I need to invest in that equipment. But I need to own a torch anyway. Thank you for showing me why I need it soon lol Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge, you're a very good teacher. I appreciate you
Thank you Michael. Very nice comment!
In
It's a one thing that I want to do. Build my own bicycle. Thanks for your time and all of this videos. 💫
Thanks for watching. Building your own bicycle is a great hobby.
I put in a search for Brazing - the first lasted about 15 secs before I got bored with introductions, etc...
Next was Dude teaching in college, making bronze trees... That was cool, but not so informative.
Then here...
.
I like your teaching style Paul. Calm, sensible, informative, even the background music was toned down, so we could hear clearly everything you said.
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I can solder, arc/tig weld, but it's been awhile since I brazed my home (ship)-built morse key and needed a bit of a refresher before I tackle an upcoming small brazing job. I was not disappointed. Subscribed.
Thank you Deebz270. Welcome to our channel 🙂
Paul. I just made my life complete…. I ordered me a Romax steel g 😊😊😊😊
That sounds ike a good thing! 😉
This is an excellent video, Paul, thank you for making it. I want to improve my brazing skills, and I've been practicing with icicles, but it is quite challenging to do these, without a self-fluxed, and using 15% silver rod. Probably not the best rod for this trick, I reckon-I need to get some others to try.
Thanks for liking our video. Building icicles can be tricky, but don't give up. Silver content can be expensive, so get bare bronze rods, I use 3/32". The automatic fluxer is a great help too, but I know that not everyone has one...
Thank you so much Paul. I learnt to Oxy Weld a lifetime ago but have been using a MIG for the last few years. On the back of finding your channel I am off to buy a small oxy set and start repairing a few frames that I have been sitting on for too long. Thanks again. Jeff
Cool, got you going, eh?
@@paulbrodie For sure my friend. Going to practice my brazing and replace rear dropouts on two of my BMX bikes plus fabricate some bits and bobs on my Honda CT110 race bikes. Just need to get a lathe now (hahahaha). Back in the day, my late Dad was a machinist / fitter for Clyde Engineering in Sydney Aust. Keep up the great work and looking forward to watching more of your content. I will give your channel a shout out on one of my shows "The Postie Bike Podcast" ..... have a great day. Jeff
You're an inspiration to me, Paul Brodie. I got into metalworking just last year, and I realized I don't want to be an ironworker, I want to be an artisan, like you.
Well thank you very much. That's a very nice compliment. I hope you do work at it and become an Artisan. Remember, it does take time. I have been at it 57 years...
Hi I used to build frames with my father George Longstaff in the UK 🇬🇧 very nostalgic video for me .
We only used the liquid flux in the gas for fillet brazing for a smoother Finish and kept the frames in multi directional spinning jigs when brazing to help keep them in line . The noise of the dyno file brings back memories. We built bikes ,trikes tandems & tandem trikes . Happy days google George Longstaff we built the first ever 2WD mountain trike . 😁
Yes, you definitely have had a lot of experience! Building trikes and tandems is not for the faint of heart. They are definitely a lot harder than a regular hardtail. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Could listen to this guy all day. He has a great way. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Fintan.
Love it! Thanks. My background is with industrial batteries, a lot of welding lead. Years ago I learned that it was important to not have too much oxy which is what you called “oxidizing”. And what you called “neutral” I called a soft flame. Awesome channel, I’ll be back!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
You have very nice speakers in your shop! The amazing sounding KEF Reference 101😍
Yes, I bought my Kefs back in 1980 I believe...
@@paulbrodie They are on my wishlist. 😃
I've been hoping/waiting for this for years from you Paul, these videos are awesome. Laughed my ass off when you burnt yourself at 22:13 after stating you were not going to wear gloves and were going to be careful.
Safety Third! :)
@@paulbrodie Dexterity with gloves and tiny tig/brazing wire isnt the best, i totally get it...Sometimes i feel like too much safety gear puts you into a bubble and makes you forget the big dangers. Little burns/cuts remind you to be careful
hey Paul, ill be travelling to the UK for a frame building course, and now watching this to get me a little up to speed! making me so excited to start out!
Good luck with your frame building course. Thanks for watching!
I think stalagmite would be a better descriptor than icicle on the braze stacking. I've been welding as a hobbyist for 47 years and never heard of an inline fluxer. That is kinda neat. Don't think I would get one as most of my welding is tig or mig but brazing has always been kind of relaxing to do. Bought a jewelers torch awhile back as I have always liked making little sculptures. Currently gearing up to do metal casting as one bucket list item is to make a 1920-ish Indian from scratch. Which is why I started watching your videos, when I found the Whippet video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!!!
Roundtuit, thanks for watching and commenting.
What a godsend! This information is gold! Why doesn't this channel have a gazillion views and subscribers?!? People need to wake up! This video alone gets a Like/Subscribe/Bell
Thank you very much. We are slowly getting a little recognition...
@@paulbrodie "The Flux Capacitor is what makes time travel possible."😉
Hey Paul Brodie! You're back in my feed! Nice! Great video! I had never heard of an automatic fluxer before and I've been brazing for decades. Thanks for the tip.
Usually what I've noticed when people think about lubricating an oxygen bottle, it's those coarse, rusty threads the cap screws onto. I just scribble on them real good with a pencil and let the graphite go to work. It's an old woodworking trick my grandpa taught me. (He did it a lot on the top surface of his table saw. ..and tight door jambs and hinges ..and on the pieces of our fishing poles that sock together. ..). I'm going to be making ice cycles within the hour. I need that kind of practice. I notice my brazed joints look a lot like my soft solder joints with not much stacked up
I'm so glad that we are back in your feed! And thanks for liking our videos... I would use wax on those big coarse threads...
Hi Paul, I would love to see a video with more information about your home made fluxer! Maybe even plans on how we could build our own??? 😃 Or at least the design principles. Thanks for teaching us how to go fast and look cool... and stay safe too...
I've fixed torches the last 10 years and I finally picked up soldering the cutting heads. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching!
Tarantino needs to make a movie in which some serious sh*t goes down in a metals shop just so that he can cast Christopher Walken to play you, Mr. Brodie.
And, btw, great video! As a person who’s always been interested in this skill but never pursed it, I find your presentation engaging and easy to follow!
Thanks very much! Christopher Walken has been mentioned before, somehow... I like him as an actor. And thanks for liking our video....
Thanks Paul. I'm planning to build a large scale model RC airplane (about 4M span) with a brazed chrome moly tubing fuselage with tubing ranging from 3/16" to 1/2"' diameters. Is there a simple way to create the form fitting joints of smaller tubing? Also, I would like to use a Oxy-Mapp torch I have on hand vs.a Oxy-acetylene setup. Pros and cons? Thanks.
If you have a milling machine you can make a fixture to hold the small tubes and then mitre them with an end mill. I have only ever used oxy-acetylene, never mapp gas or propane. Sorry I cannot advise you on that...
Where would you use a bronze vs nickel silver brazing rod? Also, can you create a fillet braze by first starting with a nickel silver braze and then follow that with a bronze fillet? Thanks, Steve
On a bicycle frame, I use 1/16" nickel silver for pinch lugs, brake bosses, and to start the fillet brazes. It is strong, and has slightly better flow characteristics than bare bronze. Yes, I always start the fillet braze with a small pass of nickel silver. Bare bronze rod (3/32") has better characteristics for building up a larger fillet. Good questions!
The best presentation ever! But that music killed it, John
Great video Paul, thank you. It reminded me of nearly 60 years ago junior high shop class.
Thank you Edward. I remember High School Shop almost like it was yesterday!
WOW...great instruction! I learned more little things from you in the time spent watching this vid than I have learned in years of messing around with brazing!! As I have always believed when doing many types of work, the ease of doing the job AND THEN quality you produce is in the DETAILS!! THANK YOU!!
Thank you Don.
WWBD? Man. Much love and respect. If you ever want to build a bike. I have a desire, need and a historical reference to build from.
I'd say that your automatic fluxer was a good investment, you got that the same year I was born, lol. I'm just starting out learning how to braze, I've never done any type of metalwork before, but this has always intrigued me. So thank you for the video, it was very informative.
A lot of folks don't want to pay for an automatic fluxer, but they really are a good investment that can literally last a lifetime. So glad I have mine. Thanks for watching our video.
Your bracing-skills are excellent, Paul! As are your skills in general. Beautiful creations you make, and your explaining is pare none. Say hello to Mitch
Thank you Helge. Mitch reads the comments too :)
I use it for work as a hvac installer we use 50/50 silver solder
50/50 is good. I have 56% and 45% if I remember correctly.....
@@paulbrodie I've even used soft solder with a torch at the trade school I went to
Thanks for the video Paul you've taught me a lot. I have no intention of ever building a bicycle frame but I do need to learn how to braze and weld. This will get me quite a ways down the road. I have a project where I need to stick some round tubing on a piece of angle and this should allow me to do that. Keep the good stuff coming.
Thanks Johnny. We're planning another fillet brazing video in the next while, so that is upcoming.
Thank you Paul. I found this video immensely helpful as I try to learn brazing myself through trial and error through reading books, watching videos, and of course bugging my friends who have built frames. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative and will serve as valuable resources for anyone. Many thanks.
Thank you Ben. Very nice comments!
Silver brazing some cable guides today. I've only done it a few times so nearly no experience, especially with tuning a proper small flame. This is just what I needed. Thanks Paul!
- "some of those TH-cam videos where the flux is just piled on there" - lol that's me haha. :D
Silver soldering or silver brazing? I always silver solder cable guides. Just remember to keep the cone very close; it really does make it easier.
@@paulbrodie Yes silver soldering. Thanks for the tips!
Nice Video.
Question: Can I braze with Mapp or Propane alone ? Do I need Oxy ?
What setup would you recommend for beginners ?
I have only brazed with oxy-acetylene. That's what I would recommend. I don't know of any long term frame builders that use anything else, like Mapp or Propane. There must be a reason for that. Thanks for watching....
Back when MAPP was introduced, the story was that Propane is a 2500°F Flame and Acetylene is a 6500°F Flame, and so MAPP was to fill that gap with a 4500°F Flame. At the time, going from Propane to MAPP was a night and day difference. Lately, I have both read and experienced that MAPP is less different than it was early on (on the cooler side). I would really like to hear what the REAL experts have to add to this account.
I enjoyed your very pleasant video, and probably, (hopefully), learned something. Thank you, Sir!
Thank you Bill :)
Hey Paul, I can’t believe it took me this long to discover your channel. I have been a huge fan since I was a kid in the 90’s. I’ve actually been in the basement where (I was told) you first started making bikes professionally.
Tyler, thanks for finding our channel :) That house address is 740 E 22. Same house?
@@paulbrodie That’s it. I was doing some electrical work there, way back in the day. It was pretty cool seeing all the old stickers.
Nice video and looks like you are a very good teacher and person!
Thank you AP.
now you are doing real brazing. a number of videos on YT are entitled "brazing" but they are doing silver soldering. i learned brazing at 16 or 17 before i learned to weld. a close neighbor showed me how to braze correctly, he worked brazing at Pratt and Whitney jet engine division
Yes, I have heard there is a bit of mis-information out there on TH-cam!
Also interested in surface prepping suggestions as it helps with whetting and capillary action and contamination that acts as an anti-flux. Great video once again, thanks!
I sanded the pieces with 80 grit emery cloth..
Here goes nothing lol
You said the heat pulled the solder to the I side. The only thing I've ever done was sweat copper. And I was told, you only heat up the out side peice, then wants the solder starts to melt the inner peice pulls the solder in..
I didn't know if copper and the metal your soldering would be the same. It just got me wondering if I was told wrong many years ago lol
O and I Thank you for the video!!!!!😇
There is some truth to what you said... that is for soldering. I was brazing, which is different. Different filler rod, different fuel, and different techniques. No, I can't say you were told wrong all of those years ago. Thanks for watching...
Always a great way to start the Sunday! Very nice content, as always. I really apreciate this work thank you so much.
Hi! Paul. I discovered your channel about a week ago and am scrambling to get caught up on the content. I'm more interested in motorcycles than bikes, but really appreciate the fabrication content regardless. I don't understand the process of pre-brazing with nichol silver and then over brazing the fillet with bronze? What's the purpose as opposed to just doing the fillet? I'm thinking the bronze would migrate into the joint by capilary action when doing the fillet? What's going on there? CHEERS
Yes, you can just create a fillet with the 3/32" bare bronze rod. There are likely many builders who do that. Each rod has it's own characteristics, and I like to take advantage of the best of each rod. They are both strong, but nickel silver has slightly better flow characteristics, and the bronze brazing rod is easier to build up into a fillet. If you only use the 3/32" bronze rod and make only one pass, it's hard to know if the bronze really wicked into the space between the two tubes... Using the 1/16" nickel silver rod, and making a very small pass, I "know" the filler material has fully wicked into that intersection. I'm a #fussyframebuilder so that's why I do things a certain way.
I've done 3 motorcycle frames from scratch using brazing. I just wish more people were still keeping the technique alive , when it comes to motorcycle frames. Sadly it's extremely difficult to find good info on the subject here on TH-cam . However, this channel has given me some good tips to use , and I've been able to apply a few to my last frame build.
This is great - perfect timing in my journey! Will you be doing something on fillet brazing some joints on a frame? Weld order; amount of brass to aim for; and even how to file down would be great. Your videos explain things much better than I have seen anywhere else! Thank you!
Watch the rest of his videos! All that info is in there!
Yes that is the plan..
I’ve been struggling trying to do this in class without it bubbling up this helped me out a lot !
Great introduction! I’m starting a gig in Automotive restoration, and will need to learn how to braze. This is a great way to get an idea and I’ll be spending after hours hopefully practicing myself! It reminds me of soldering, which is an art unto itself.
Brazing could be useful in auto restoration. Years ago I used to work right next to an auto body shop that did a lot of resto work on MG TC's and such. Not so much brazing, but tacking with the Mig torch when patching rusty panels etc. Good luck, and thanks for watching....
I love welding! It is very relaxing to me.
So as someone who does welding mig and tig I can't help to think why braze? I have seen some custom drag motorcycles with very powerful engines that have a brazed frames is it because it more of a traditional type of metalworking? I have never done it before but cant help to think why braze when it could be welded. Thanks for the video I would love to have ago at some point looks really nice.
It's just a different technique. Fillet brazing can be very beautiful. Putting small brazeons on to a bicycle frame is best done with silver solder. If you ever change the cable routing they are easy to remove.
Hello Paul, First my comment, you are a master at your skills Sir, Thank You for sharing. I too have worked with metal (and wood) all my life, as a Tool & Die maker, Machinist, Engineer, and Boatwright. We are probably contemporary by age. My questions, do you always use the line gasser for flux, You always add paste flux before heating so are these being used in conjunction with each other? Have you ever used an Argon shielding gas with the oxy-acetylene as an inline flux? Your shop is nicely set up, please offer up a video tour one day Thanks, Looking forward to your response
If I am brazing, I always use both fluxes. In conjunction with each other, works very well. I have not used an Argon shielding gas.You are not the first to ask for a shop tour. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie Thanks so much for responding so quickly. Do you ever work with braze rods that are flux coated (silver, nickel silver or bronze?). I'd like to know your opinion on using these fluxed rods instead of bright wire and paste flux. I tend to favor these for my marine fabrication as well as casting repairs. I also find it interesting that you work in both SAE and MM. Most of your shop dwgs are in SAE while you measure your frames in MM and use metric threads. Is this a function of the bike industry being MM standards? Or just because when we started out so many years ago the Imperial system was what we were taught? I'd also like to ask where you are located? Thanks Again, Paul Maselli "TheMobileBoatwright".
@@TheMobileBoatwright Flux coated rods are ok if that's all you have, but I prefer my system of paste and automatic fluxer. I was taught Imperial and then Metric showed up. Bicycles are a mix. The tube OD's are Imperial, yet the wall thickness is Metric. I am in Langley, BC, Canada, eh? Thanks for watching!
Flux, that I used to use, was a paste- type flux. You dip your brazing rod into the flux, before, and periodically when brazing.
Yes, that can work, but the automatic fluxer really is the best because it is always adding flux to the work area. Once you've used one it's hard to go back to not having one.....
Hey Paul. I enjoy your videos. Liked and subscribed. I'm a 77y/o retired respiratory therapist in the US. I was taught that oxygen bottles were always green no matter where you were on the planet. Is it different where you live? Or, has your blue bottle been painted over?
Thanks Bill.. I bought that oxygen bottle "as is". It was blue. I got it certified, then had it filled at a different company, and no one said a word about the color of the bottle..
@@paulbrodie That's interesting. I would've thought that somewhere along the line there would have been an international agreement. But, we are non-metric (stupid), so maybe we're the only ones who use green. I'll see if I can find out more about it.
I asked chatGPT what color denotes oxygen in Australia. This is the anwer I got: In Australia, oxygen tanks are typically green in color. The green color is used to distinguish them from other types of gas cylinders and to indicate that they contain medical-grade oxygen. It's worth noting that specific regulations or standards regarding the color of oxygen tanks may vary, so it's always a good idea to consult local guidelines or authorities for the most accurate and up-to-date information.
@@billbyrd9845 I see. Thanks.
Paul, can I use an oxyacetylene torch to repair a bronze statue using a silicon bronze rod? Most people use TIG welding, but it just too expensive for me. Everyone talks about bronze brazing, but not bronze brazing BRONZE. I wonder if it’s not possible because the statue and the rod have the roughly same melting temperature. I want to use silicon bronze filler rod, because the bronze I used in my sculpture is also silicon bronze. This should create an even patina and hide the repairs.
Good questions! I have very little experience brazing and repairing bronze, sorry. I suggest trying a very small amount. That will give you an indication if it wants to, or not. Remember to clean everything very well, adjust the torch properly, and use clean flux.
Paul you are a great instructor, very through. It[s a pleasure learning from you. I subscribed and am looking forward to your videos
Thank you Jackie. Appreciate your comments!
Great video and camera work Paul and Mitch. I learned a lot. Where did you get your welding glasses Paul?
Thank you. They were my Fathers brazing glasses from the 1960's. You probably can't find them anymore...
Are your glasses blue lens?
Great video and tutorial, thank you!! May I ask what shade of glasses do you use -- 3 or 4? I mean, IF you were thinking safety first instead of 3rd ;-) I've been looking for 4 but can't find any, using 3. Thanks much!
Ryan, thanks for liking our videos. I inherited my brazing glasses from my father; he used them in the UK in the early 60s. I have no idea what number shade they are, sorry.
I'm just starting to mess around with brazing and your content is amazingly clear and useful. Can you point me to any videos in actually welding thin metal using the same process as brazing?
Thanks Mike. We did 3 videos on brazing and silver soldering. What other videos are out there (similar, but welding...) I do not know, sorry. Just do a search as see what pops up...
I've recently started to play around with a cheap mini oxy-acetylene set from the hardware store. I use flux powder that I got for free from a company that quit brazing. I mix it with deionized water to make a sticky paste, which works quite well. They sold me some nickel silver cadmium rods for scrap price. (Yes, I have good ventilation. Safety third.) I braze scrap bicycle frame pieces for practice and I dream to make a freak bike some day. It doesn't need to be very tough, just tough enough for some show rides. What I wanted to say though, is that you can clearly see when nickel silver cadmium melts, because it's a little dull when solid but becomes mirrorish shiny when molten. That's a really nice indicator.
Yes, you certainly are doing it on the cheap. But it sounds a bit sketchy to me. You say the frame doesn't need to be very tough. I disagree. You want to overbuild it, so it NEVER breaks. Also, buy the best flux. It's all detailed in our second brazing video. Flux is very important. I use nickel silver, but not nickel silver cadmium.
@@paulbrodie thank you for your reply, Paul. You're absolutely right with your attitude, always to overbuild so that the bike never breaks. What I wanted to say, is that my frame will never be used in a mountain biking application. It will be ridden on smooth flat pavement, with no competition whatsoever. But you can be sure that I won't bet my life or my health on bad craftsmanship.
The flux that I got is intended to be used with my particular brazing rods. Someone, who has more knowledge in brazing than me, thinks it's the best for the application. I guess I'm the weakest link in the chain 🤷♂️
@@andrebartels1690 Then I say, Don't be the weakest link in the chain. That doesn't sound good to me,
Thanks for the brazing lessonl Paul! I have to make a tension spring for the Tom Richie inspired belt sander then its finished,
l'll send ya a pic.
Thanks! Might be easier to buy a spring rather than make one...
@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul, I decided to build a spring to fit the shape of the tool a little better. How can I send ya pics? you have an email I can send them to? I dont have facebook or instagram
@@rickfazzini22 fussyframebuilder@gmail.com
Enjoyed this Paul, nice to have found you, ive subbed 👍
Thank you Ralfy.
Enjoyed the video thanks for your time.
Daniel, thanks for watching!
Hello, I need some advice, how would you suggest someone silver braze a stainless steel ferrule on to a stainless steel keg? I'm trying to do what is shown in the video posted on the goodwelds channel "Tig welding 304 stainless 4" tri clamp fitting in ABS brewing fermenter". I'm not a tig welder, but I have brazed before. I'm thinking about cutting the hole so the ferrule doesn't fall through, but rests on a lip. Would it be better to braze it on the inside out or from the outside in? How would you do it? Thanks for any suggestions. Cheers.
Hello, we need to be very careful with the choice of words here. You said "silver braze". Do you mean silver solder? They are different, so I need to know exactly what you mean... If you are silver brazing, what rod are you using?
@@paulbrodieHi, I meant silver brazing. I am using Harris Safety-Silv 56 (flux coated silver brazing alloy) 1/16" x 18" rods. They have a label stating they have a fluidity 8 rating. I guess I could use solder, but thought brazing would be better.
@@snappingbear I have never used those rods you have. So, I'm not sure I can answer your question. I think you need to set up a test situation. Get some stainless that is the same type and thickness as the keg, and try brazing / silver soldering in a ferrule. This way you can also experiment with tip size, and size of the cone. Everything has to be very, very clean, and don't over heat the flux because that never works...
@@paulbrodie Thanks, I was thinking of trying that because I have a piece of the stainless from the hole I cutting out.
My favorite gas brazing video
Thank you Gary.
Hey Paul, Thanks so much for all of your videos! At one point or another I saw a clip where you talked about which specific type of Nickel-Silver rod you use. For the life of me & after re-watching half or more of your library I cant find that clip.. Can you share with us the type & content of Nickel-Silver rod you typically use? Thanks again & looking forward to more videos!
fwiw, I settled on 1/16" GF72 nickel silver brazing rod from the gas flux co. Not sure if this is the same thing Paul is using, but its what GasFlux folks recommended, so I'll try it out. Thanks again Paul! We all owe you a debt of gratitude for everything you've shared with us on this channel! Looking forward to everything that is yet to come!
Nice job Paul.
Thank you.
The only fluxes that I have are a whit almost powder, is that type of Flux ok to use? I didn't even know you could get flux that runs in line, when using inline flux do not have to put any flux on the metal before starting?
You have a white flux... It may be ok, maybe not. We have 2 brazing videos. Between them, there is all of the info on what rods and fluxes I use, and pictures of the labels, etc. Yes, when I am brazing steel, I use both fluxes. It's the best way. First I apply the paste flux on the COLD steel, then braze. The torch has an inline fluxer, that holds a clear, stinky clear liquid. Smells very toxic. This is what mixes with the acetylene gas, and comes out as a flame. Hope I have helped....
Can you please elaborate about the benefits of braze-assembling a tube-frame vs a regular welding (e.g. with TIG or oxy-torch)?
They are both fine ways to make a frame. Brazing and filing takes longer, and is more arty. They are both very strong if done properly...
@@paulbrodie very arty indeed - the joints look amazing! Can you estimate the total extra weight added to the frame by the brazing material?
My best estimate is 57 grams...
@@paulbrodie For the whole frame? Wow! That's much less than I thought.
This was the best complete introduction to brazing and controlling the heat I have seen and it is very helpful. I know the work you show is more structural, but I work on yard art and use brazing material instead of plating to coat parts of a piece. So what I need is flat icicles. The parts have a variable thickness so my base gets away from me and is uneven as I move from 3/4" to 1/4" material. It may be that I need to work smaller areas. Do you have any video where you use brazing for this type of application?
Bo, we only have the 2 videos dedicated to brazing. It sounds like the issue might be heat control, if it "gets away from you". If you're going from 3/4" down to 1/4" you will definitely be adjusting your flame to suit. Are you doing that?
@@paulbrodie thank you for giving me a better starting point than I had. I'm an old bicycle rider in Shakopee, MN. I got to know Cecil Behringer, if you know of him. He worked with titanium.
@@paulbrodie I'm not adjusting my flame but I'll try that.
@@berpherdsavage Sorry, I do not know Cecil Behringer..
What size torch tip is being used? What about for fork crowns and lugs?
All that info is mentioned in the video. It is a 0 tip... Fork crowns and lugs too.
Hi Paul, i wish i have found your channel before! Great contents. The explanation of the flame type is what i was looking for. Would be cool if you can film it with a proper exposure in order to see the variations in shape. Ciao!
Yes, hindsight is 20/20. We'll do that in the upcoming fillet brazing video :)
@@paulbrodie great!
thanks for the great refresher Paul. Happy New Year
Happy New Year Lance!
Thank you Paul. Very informative for me being newbie.
Thanks for watching!
So informative. Really appreciate guys taking the time to share this kind of stuff! These skills are something to be really proud of. No matter how advance technology gets I think there will always be a need to join one piece of metal to another.
Yes, the world will always need welders. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie And that’s no bad thing 😂
looking forward to seeing more and getting started myself. 👍
Was wishing you had a brazing starter video, so thank you!!!!
one quest. wich are the best pressures of the oxigen and acetylene for braze coper with coper?
I would think that brazing copper to copper would be very tricky. I have never done it. I would probably use silver solder. I set my gauges at 2-4 lbs pressure. That would be for a small job. You never mentioned how big the copper is. If there is a lot of mass, you will have to increase the pressure to get a larger flame.
I do copper brazing for work, and there are specific pressures you're supposed to use for each size tip. Is this the same for fillet brazing?
Yes, there are probably Rules of Thumb for pressures. In the Real World, there is probably a lot more leeway. For my small torch, a Victor J28, I use a zero tip, and a one. Do I change the pressure when switching tips? Never. If I use my big torch with a number 4 tip, do I change the pressure for that? I'm thinking back, and I would have to say no. I set pressures between 2 and 4 psi.
Hello Mr. Brodie, as you are very knowledgeable about soldering, I have a question.
I have a motorcycle frame from the Harris company in England. This was soldered with SIF Bronze 101.
Which gases do I need to re-solder one or two solder joints!
Oxygen and ...?
thank you for the information
greeting
Karsten
Hello Karsten. I am more knowledgeable about brazing than soldering. I would use oxy-acetylene.
Just got a job in hvac install great help
Sorry if this is an irrelevant question but I want to seal the bottom seam of an oil lantern. Should I braze or solder it? It’s very thin metal. Possibly steel or tin.
Without seeing it, I would suggest trying solder. Much less heat, so if you don't get it right, less chance of destruction. Spend time to get it clean and sanded, if possible, apply flux and be careful. Don't overheat. Try to make the solder flow with the least amount of heat.
@@paulbrodie Thank you!
Great Vid, many thanks.
Thank you BL...
I have some 1-1/2” stainless tubing 035 wall that my work was throwing out years ago. I’d like to make a frame with it. Thinking of oxy acetylene brazing. Any reason not to? What type of flux and filler? I made one frame of 4130 in the past and that’s my only experience.
Your 1.5" tubing would only be good for the downtube, possibly, and then you would have to find all of the other tubes in stainless. I would only Tig weld a stainless frame, and then you have to purge inside the tubes. A lot of extra work. And stainless frames have been known for tube failure. My advice? Stick to 4130. It's relatively easy to use, and usually bomb proof....
You built E.T.’s finger not an icicle. ‘Elliot’
Thanks for the tips and your delivery is pleasant. Its important to be pleasant as a teacher. Some people are a wealth of knowledge but ruin it with poor delivery. Thanks again.
Thank you Sir Mixalot. I do my best :)
Thank you Mr. Brodie, very informative.
David, thanks for watching... 😉
Great Video from a great person. Can you make a video on building and using a Bob Beck protocol. The excuse "I've never done that before", won't wash I have watched other videos of yours. Good luck.
Thank you. I've never heard of Bob Beck, so I would have to Google him to see What's up!
Hi, I've got a problem when I'm trying to braze fill pitting caused by oxidation.
I'm trying to fill the pitting on an exaust to smooth out the surface with silver or bronze before chrome or ceramic paint and the problems I encounter is that it doesn't stay in the hole but flows around from where I want it to be.
Also at one point it will "explode" the puddle when trying to add more silver or bronze to fill te hole.
I'm using flux covered rods.
Do you have any ideas of what I´m doing wrong?
Please disregard any and all writing errors, english is not my native language.
Your English is fine, not a problem.. Trying to braze / fill an old exhaust pipe is one of the hardest things, so don't feel bad. It is old metal that has probably been through thousands of heat cycles. And now you have added a few more intense heat cycles. You need to prep very well, get the steel down to base metal. Having an automatic fluxer would help, but not everyone has one. If not, applying paste flux to the cold metal might help, but like I said, it is a very difficult job and chances of success are small. All the best in 2024!
Just found your channel great veiwing
Thank you Barnaby....
So when you solder do you do one joint at a time? When do you reflux a joint? If it gets too hot do you start over or just wire brush it clean and flux it again? When someone has brassed a part and you want to weld it. How do you get rid of the brass?
I first tried oxy acetylene welding and brazing in high school. Your videos have been very helpful, Thank You. I'll never forget a British motorcycle frame that was clear coated over the bare steel to showcase the fillet brazing. From 1/8 in. to 1/2 in. wide, perfect, evenly spaced ripples. When I tried to duplicate this, my appreciation of the craftsmanship was humbling. I mentioned this to a friend who is far more knowledgeable who said that was done with Sifbronze. Have you ever heard of this? Also, your shop and your methods are an inspiration, Thank You for sharing. After watching some of your other videos I find that we are kindred spirits. I too own a H-D Sprint.
Hi Don, Thanks for liking our videos, and that's great you own a Sprint! Model? The brazing style you are referring to has been called "a stack of dimes". That is definitely hard to do, perhaps it was Sifbronze, but perhaps it was Tig-brazing. I think for me it would be easier with Tig. I will check it out...
I have learnt so much in such a short time. Thank you such a great video tutorial. In one of your videos you silver soldered the joint and then brazed over the top to produce a lovely blended join. is the Silver solder there for strength or some other reason. Hugh
Hi Hugh, if you look through the comments you will see that I have answered this issue many times, and I talk about it directly in the fillet brazing video. You are confusing silver solder with nickel silver. They are completely different! Silver solder melts at a much lower temperature, and usually has a content of 45% or 56% silver. I use nickel silver from Soudotec and the part # is 6800 and it has ZERO % silver. Because both rods have "silver"in the name I think that's where the confusion comes from. I did not name the rods. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Paul. Much appreciated.
No worries, thank you.
That’s very nice video, thank you for the teaching.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the overview of your brazing process. I'm looking into brazing so I can attempt to braze two broken mounting ears back onto an old cast iron exhaust manifold where it bolts to the cylinder head. What input would you have on preheating the casting before working? I'll be checking out your fillet brazing video as well as that will apply where the flanges meet the rest of the manifold.
So much thanks for this video. It helps me a lot as a starter!:)
You're a great teacher! Thanks for all your videos.
Thank you David!
Paul, love the video. I, too, have gasflux. What do you use to get rid of the residue? It's like glass
Thank you Paul. The flux I use is water soluble, so soak the part in a bucket of hot water, or run hot water over the flux...
Thanks Paul, for the great instructional videos, Stumbled across the 'Romax' build whilst doing some research and have now binged lots of you videos......GREAT STUFF! Done my fair share of silver soldering on all sorts of small machines, clocks and braze on bike bits. However, Brazing is a different animal. Having trouble finding the right supplies here in Australia.....any suggestions? aggh! (hate those pre fluxed rod!) and in need of bit more practice before tackling the brazing on the frame. Love all the motorbikes in the background. Cheers from Oz Trev-(R)
Try contacting my friend Rob Benson at Tempest Bicycles and/or Chimera Frame Works. He's building so should know local suppliers. Thanks for watching!
Just a thought,
Turn the heat brick on its side, then drill multiple hols in it and have some 5mm studs made up that protrude about 20mm (3 quarter inch ) then fit the studs depending on the job in hand.
Theñ rest the job on the studs.
That way you waste no gas heating the brick up.
Well, the heat brick isn't taking up that much heat... but it's great that you were looking for a solution :)
@@paulbrodie Spoken like a true college professor. :-)
@@Deebz270 That was my life for 9 1/2 years :)
I believe the purpose of the flux is to stop the steel oxidising which would prevent the bronze from wetting. So the important conclusion from the icicle experiment is the poor join to the steel base. Also be careful with flux - boron causes infertility! Thanks Paul, love your videos.
I believe the flux has 2 purposes. The first is to "help prevent" the steel from getting too hot, and so allow the bronze to adhere. Too much heat will cook the flux, but it does help. The second is to help the bronze (or whatever filler rod..) to flow. Don't worry, I'm too old to have kids.
Without a huge investment in equipment, what are your thoughts on using MAPP with a torch on a hose with maybe a fluxed rod or powder? Obviously, not a production option but for practice and light duty?? Thanks for all your lessons.
I have never used MAPP so can offer no opinion whatsoever. Sorry. When I first started brazing in high school all we had was flux coated rods. Oxy-acetylene really is the way to go. Thanks for watching.
Hi I use propane with oxygen as acetylene gas is very expensive in the U.K. and a very high rental for the Bottles , do you think that’s ok , I seam to do ok but would value your opinion 👍
To be honest, I have never brazed with propane and oxygen. Always oxy-acetylene. It seems propane can work, but I feel that acetylene is better. I don't know of any professional frame builders using propane.
@@paulbrodie I’m just a hobbyist that does old cars up and sometimes need a none Structural job taking care of , I’ve Tig & Mig for other stuff , thanks for your answer 👍